GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[cheekybloke]

tired of getting drenched, esp in rear, i was about to buy some mucky nutz...

when i wondered what it was made of... and thought, heck, i could get some of that!

in searching around, i found something else that might even be stronger and stiffer...

a 24" x 48" sheet of 0.093" kydex!

seems like they're mostly used for knife sheaths... :lol: anyone passing by my cube when i was searching for images would have raised an eyebrow at the weapons...

seems very workable, though i might need a mold:
[youtube]BUVhAKXm254[/youtube]

we shall see...
impressive durability:
[youtube]_9fRkudrcbI[/youtube]

hi there mr GC ,have you seen the mudhugger rear mudguards?
https://www.themudhugger.co.uk/
i modified one to cover the shock etc.will post a pic so you can see my telescopic version.
darren
ok my phone just died,give me a while to sort it

 

[cheekybloke]

tired of getting drenched, esp in rear, i was about to buy some mucky nutz...

when i wondered what it was made of... and thought, heck, i could get some of that!

in searching around, i found something else that might even be stronger and stiffer...

a 24" x 48" sheet of 0.093" kydex!

seems like they're mostly used for knife sheaths... :lol: anyone passing by my cube when i was searching for images would have raised an eyebrow at the weapons...

seems very workable, though i might need a mold:
[youtube]BUVhAKXm254[/youtube]

we shall see...
impressive durability:
[youtube]_9fRkudrcbI[/youtube]

hi there mr GC ,have you seen the mudhugger rear mudguards?
https://www.themudhugger.co.uk/
i modified one to cover the shock etc.will post a pic so you can see my telescopic version.
darren
ok my phone just died,give me a while to sort it

 

[GCinDC]

nicely done, cheeky! thanks.

in other news, i just reinstalled the hs3540.

gonna make sure i'm not mad; need to see if it's truly faster. couldn't be bothered to yank it apart just yet.

am a bit perplexed with my weight meaurements tho? here the bike with the h40 installed:

and here with the hs3540 back on there:

can't figure out why they weigh same here, and yet the h40 feels heavier... madness creeping back in.

and put on a brand new rotor on the hs3540, and about to finely sand the disc pads, when damn, no wonder the brakes sound like hell:

gotta buy replacement pads asap, and probably better put the old rotor back on before it gets destroyed..

the journey continues

 

[Scott]

lol. what kinda snow? frozen crunchy? thin and slippery? packed?

3 inches of fresh powder! I kept my hookworms on and my bike still did wheelies even in the snow! I had really good traction, im pretty impressed with them.

 

[GCinDC]

ok, so the Bluecell 30pcs 300mm Releasable/Reusable Plastic Zip Cable Wire Ties are crap. Too brittle and break before tightening.

and i guess i hadn't considered to be able to reuse them, i couldn't really snip the ends if i need to be able to tighten them...

i did cut a longer piece of kydex for the rear, but it was too long for the oven so i stuck it in folded. the area that touched the metal melted a bit. and it hardened up so fast when out that a mold might be necessary to stick in the oven. i was really curious if i'd be able to make a 'track' and then bend it into a curve w/o buckling. not sure why i thought i'd be able to do that. was just hoping, but i couldn't.

so i let it buckle and tho not pretty, threw it on w/ cable ties, cause i damn sure don't want to get splattered again..

the butt guard there is 3.5" wide, except where it reaches the shock. probably livable if i secure it properly and remove the unsightly cable ends.

i had intended the long piece to fasten where the short one is, and be closer to the tire, but it's too floppy for that as is.

in other news, just to make sure i wasn't mad, i found and am reposting(?) this vid of the WOT no load spin of the h40 (in stand) and hs3540 on wheel just to prove that the h40 maxes at 72mph @ 6A no load, whereas the hs3540 maxes at 85mph @ 8?A no load...

no changes to controller were made except running autodetect for hall/phase combos.

so yesterday i threw back on the hs3540, lifted the wheel to do the same test and the max no load speed was ONLY 65MPH!!???

WTF???

andrey, when running autodetect, are any other configs cleared? per your email on 7/3, i still have settings " advanced setup menu, set pwr timing to 0.5 and ovs to 2, then set battery current to 50-70amps and phase to 120-130"

on the commute this am, where the h40 had topped at 45mph, the hs3540 continued to accelerate downhill to 47mph before i had to slow down because of traffic (and no rear brake).

but this am, the hs3540 was definitely weaker off the line. the h40 def had more tug.

and if weight isn't such a factor - which i still can't believe my comparison - the factor in favor of the hs3540 is that i can run the 7sp freewheel w/ the 11T cog, making pedaling useful up to 37mph, compared to the 5sp freewheel on the h40 where the smallest cog is like 14t.

 

[Falco]

I have found that running the auto detect all the way to the end of the program results in the quietest motor and most effecient. The way the phases are connected doesnt matter. When i was first testing the controller i interruped the the auto detect. This resulted with some default settings that were not tuned to the motor. I got more speed but at lower efficiency. Later when i did the full auto detect it was scratching my head wondering where the speed went. Then I ran some test changing the phase wire order and re-did the auto detect. Turns out each time it sets up now the top speed is the same but not as high as the first time i did it when i didnt complete the full auto detect mode. Is there a chance this is what happened to you? Btw Im using a H4060.

 

[xenodius]

Falco, did you do anything with the OVS setting as well? Interesting results.

 

[GCinDC]

maybe i'll try different phase combos, and run autodetect again...

when changing around motors, i noticed my hs3540 stock phase wire insulation has just about had it:

not to worry axel; if i sell it to you, i'll replace them...

after work yesterday, i thought i blew my adaptto kit! since moving things around, i left the controller power and charge connectors too close and couldn't read my markings on them, and plugged the battery into the charge connectors! slight KFF! but after the pop, i couldn't pull the wires apart - the kit wasn't coming on - and i had to compose myself... i pulled real hard and disconnected the wires. one of the bullets had vaporized:

i plugged the power leads together, and it took a little bit, but it came back on, and worked until most of the way home, but then they popped out and i couldn't reconnect them again. so i heaved the beast onto a bus. the bus rack had a hook that holds the front tire, and to attach it securely, the fender snapped off:

and the driver was going so fast and stopping so hard i coulda sworn the bike was going to fall off, get run over, and the pack would puncture causing a horrific fireball.. relaxing ride!

but it didn't fall. phew. so i got home and inspected my fried delicious connectors:

and after replacing the bullets, i added a 300A switch in line (instead of a precharge resistor setup) and now i love the switch!:

such a joy to turn on and off! :lol:

and more importantly, i won't ever have to disconnect the power leads again and get confused with the charge port (which is dangling out of the pic there, but can be tucked away for easy access)

now just a matter of securing/waterproofing the switch and concealing the wires better...

and lookee here, some precipitation on the way! they're calling for 8-12" of snow! woohoo! but i'll believe it when i see it:

 

[nicobie]

Maybe you'll get lucky (I Hope so!), but I never had a switch without a precharge circuit last when running over 48V.

It's will probably disconnect fine, it's the connecting that causes the contacts to weld shut. Just stick a small momentary switch and 200 ohm resistor in parallel with the big switch and use it before flipping the main switch. ½ watt resistors work fine.

 

[GCinDC]

thanks, nicobie. that's exactly what i needed to hear. and it gave me a flashback to your post almost 5 years ago!

i put the h40 back on and ths hs3540 is heading to the garage. gotta repair the tube on the wheel with the front studded tire. bummed i left the pump in the garage. will have to shovel to get there...

in the middle of some heavy stuff now (tho this is a hokey google animation of my front yard) and supposedly ice from 8-4pm? hard to imagine we'll have power after that!

meanhwile, condolences to ANDREY for this FIRE!: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47970&start=100#p854117

 

[pendragon8000]

With the precharge a suggest adding a led. I have a high brightness one on my monster build, I put the mom switch on the plug so I grab it, the light goes on and fades out then I plug it in and let go. No sparks and cool led charge indicator.
Led +1k r in parallel with big 200 ohm 1/2 watt r

 

[GCinDC]

Led +1k r in parallel with big 200 ohm 1/2 watt r

cool. i'm sure this makes sense, but i'll prob need a diagram. and a link for the led?

just shoveled back to get pump:

shoveled front and now back is covered again. one plow came an hour ago, now there's 4" more on the street where it passed.

 

[dbaker]

Do you have to work today? Feds and county are closed for me.

 

[GCinDC]

Do you have to work today? Feds and county are closed for me.

yup. streets were empty. and only one at work!

got studded tire on front, then remembered having only front brake would be dangerous, so swapped brake pads - put good front ones on back so i could use only rear brake.

and since bike was so messy, i decided to take use the elevator.

rear fender worked great! and i can easily remove it using zip ties, so it doesn't break off when i flip the bike. :wink:

woulda been really nice to have the front fender tho! got soaked up top. :x

 

[GCinDC]

also, weighed my wheels yesterday. too light for my scale to pick up so i weighed myself (w/ all clothes/gear ) at 191.7, then with h40 wheel - 221.6, so 29.9 lbs:

then hs3540 wheel at 222.8 - 191.7 = 31.1lbs!:

...the h40 motor's obviously heavier, so the hs3540 rim, (heavy duty) tube, 7spd freewheel and disc (didn't have that on a disc on the h40 at the time) must make it heavier...

so funny that i thought it was heavier at first!

oh, and another difference: on my regular commute, the h40 as i mentioned didn't even hit 200F at the top of my long hill, but the next day the hs3540 hit 300F, and both had been at roughly 180F at bottom of the hill. so i'm happy h40 now wins, with extra power and better cooling (at speed) for same weight.

 

[GCinDC]

knoxie, not sure if you're on ES much, but i thought you'd like this!
[youtube]_mKVJeA-wTw[/youtube]

 

[ridethelightning]

With the precharge a suggest adding a led. I have a high brightness one on my monster build, I put the mom switch on the plug so I grab it, the light goes on and fades out then I plug it in and let go. No sparks and cool led charge indicator.
Led +1k r in parallel with big 200 ohm 1/2 watt r

i love this led idea. id definately give it a shot. probably need a diagram too though... :?

 

[GCinDC]

[youtube]jjtEeOofoTc[/youtube]

 

[ridethelightning]

Hey Greg

im just wondering if you might know anyone apart from andreym who sells adaptto controllers ?

(i think maybe poor Andreym may be a bit preocupied right now )

im keen to get a mini-e for another build. the velomastera site seems like a deadend as always, for purchasing anyway, wont reply.

any clues?

 

[dbaker]

where did you find the kite boarders?

What brand of brake pads are you missing? You must have had to really slow it down without a front brake?

 

[GCinDC]

im just wondering if you might know anyone apart from andreym who sells adaptto controllers ?

nope. andrey's got a guy in CA handing US distribution, but don't know his name, so as far as I know, all sales go thru andrey. and as far as i understand, the new bms boards are still in production and aren't yet available.

where did you find the kite boarders?

between washington monument and WWII memorial.

What brand of brake pads are you missing?

hayes stroker ace. i bought four new pairs on sunday, to be shipped priority mail, and when they didn't arrive on tuesday as promised (or even yet) i realized they musta got stuck in snow/ice storms!

You must have had to really slow it down without a front brake?

going a lot slower anyway. rear brake is working great. i'm surprised how much material was on front pads still, considering how hard i use it normally, compared to the rear, which i showed completely ground down - and then i realized that the damn hub motor sidecovers get so easily out of true - maybe from imperfect seat of bearing? - and the wobble causes the rotor to wobble too and bye, bye brake pads...

there has to be a better way to seat the bearings in the sidecovers...

 

[GCinDC]

With the precharge a suggest adding a led. I have a high brightness one on my monster build, I put the mom switch on the plug so I grab it, the light goes on and fades out then I plug it in and let go. No sparks and cool led charge indicator.
Led +1k r in parallel with big 200 ohm 1/2 watt r

i've whipped up a diag of what i'm pretty sure nicobie suggests with the momentary switch, but, pendragon, did i need to create a third parallel line for the led, or can it be inline w/ the momentary switch as shown?

now that i look at it, the led is on no circuit, so that won't do...

for the resistor, i happen to have 5 Watt 470 ohm Metal Oxide Film resistors which i used on previous precharge circuits, so one of them will be fine, right?

 

[Cresh]

[youtube]jjtEeOofoTc[/youtube]

Kite boarding - the next new Olympic event.

 

[GCinDC]

not sure what to make of this, but sure is sick:
[youtube]BuYu_pOqVGM[/youtube]

 

[nicobie]

Two or three of those resistors in parallel should be fine. I just use the screen on my CA as an off/on indicator. It's voltage reading tells me when is safe to hit the main switch.