GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[xenodius]

madin88, you find that helpful?

update: from my ride in this morning, i can say that max regen, at ~34A was very strong. no need to use other brakes, and better be sure to have two hands on the bars! i also enabled Smooth, and found it nicer than the instant hard braking w/o it enabled. if it were only set to ~20A regen, i might not want the smooth, but at 34A, it comes on just a bit slower.

i forgot to show the throttle/brake configs. it was dumb not to ensure that was configured properly, but seemed to be w/ factory settings..

at the 34a regenA setting, what amps are you seeing going back into the battery on the display? iv found that for eg. the 34A setting may not ever be reached, more like max 12-14A or something, but the higher setting does indeed give stronger braking( :? )

i think its still worth sorting out the varyable regen function.its awesome. feels just like a really good rear hydrolic in the modulation

If I recall you can set max regen battery current as rated by your pack, but the profile specific regen settings are for phase amps and not battery. I stop real fast with 200 phase, 80 battery regen. I rarely use full power though as I have a hall throttle, it's really just head room for emergency braking.

 

[madin88]

madin88, you find that helpful?

thanks! hadn't had time to watch it yet, but tomorrow i have. im anxious to see what your settings are on the mini-e

If I recall you can set max regen battery current as rated by your pack, but the profile specific regen settings are for phase amps and not battery. I stop real fast with 200 phase, 80 battery regen. I rarely use full power though as I have a hall throttle, it's really just head room for emergency braking.

80A regen?
i guess you have some very high charge rate batteries

 

[xenodius]

madin88, you find that helpful?

thanks! hadn't had time to watch it yet, but tomorrow i have. im anxious to see what your settings are on the mini-e

If I recall you can set max regen battery current as rated by your pack, but the profile specific regen settings are for phase amps and not battery. I stop real fast with 200 phase, 80 battery regen. I rarely use full power though as I have a hall throttle, it's really just head room for emergency braking.

80A regen?
i guess you have some very high charge rate batteries

I do, 20ah A123's. I very rarely use full regen power, though it'll be nice to have the headroom if I have to stop fast from 60mph. Or, even 25 like today when a lady AND HER TWO KIDS walked into the road from between parked cars WITHOUT LOOKING no more than 40 feet from where I was. Didn't even look when I skidded to a halt and stopped feet away from them. In practice my regen amps have never been above 50, I think, but lower values seen to further decrease performance (or maybe I'm nuts)

 

[GCinDC]

so after riding the blue bike a week or so, the frame size feels good, but the suspension sucks. i guess i had my fingers crossed that a mid-western dh comp hadn't seen much abuse and would have nice plush suspension. i've softened it up as much as it will go, but still feels like someone opened up the fork tubes and shat inside. hmm, but that might make it feel softer. perhaps they're lacking in oil? or maybe there's not much oil left after all the leaking:

sure was pricey for a parts bike!

and of course my newish stroker pads on the front are now ruined from that oil...

so i gotta decide: are these forks worth rebuilding (or having rebuilt)? should i put the marz 888's from the black bike on in the meantime? and the rear fox dhx while i'm at it? as rusted as it is, it feels better than the manitou swinger...

i'm also wondering if i need a firmware upgrade on the miniE. not sure where to see the version info on the menu. doesn't show at startup.

after making all those settings for the vid, it feels a bit sluggish off the line compared to before.

and after cold startup, it seems like it's always show half a bar on the temp meter... i can't figure that out...

 

[Ypedal]

The brake pads and rotor can be cleaned up with the right solvent or soap/water mix... :wink:

 

[madin88]

i'm also wondering if i need a firmware upgrade on the miniE. not sure where to see the version info on the menu. doesn't show at startup.

after making all those settings for the vid, it feels a bit sluggish off the line compared to before.

and after cold startup, it seems like it's always show half a bar on the temp meter... i can't figure that out...

firmware version: main screen -> left -> up
normally it is written there
as for the sluggish acceleration: i read something about little less good accelertion in the newest firmware compared to some older firmware. it will be fixed in the next firmware.
as for the temp: there is a setting called "internal temp sensor". maybe you have choosen the wrong type of sensor there. once i made this mistake and i was shocked because the FET temp was at 90°C instead of room temp.

 

[dan974]

what is teh fork ref/model ? you should open outerlegs to know what is the state inside...damping trouble ...is a dorado (manitou) ?

 

[GCinDC]

what is teh fork ref/model ? you should open outerlegs to know what is the state inside...damping trouble ...is a dorado (manitou) ?

from what i can tell, it's a 2004 DORADO MRD X-WORKS

 

[dan974]

I'm pretty sure you got a cartridge inside with dammping on one side and rbound on the other and one or both got troubles with valves + problaby seals...should be easy to service and to find parts ...what are the symptoms ? more details ?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.spoke-n-word-cycles.com%2FTechnicalDocuments%2FManitou%2FManitou%25202003%2FManitou%25202003%2520Dorado%2520Service%2520Manual.pdf&ei=VyyjU9mdD8TO0AXawIDgCw&usg=AFQjCNGO6Ge281rc70b48-fA_uxc0BCXXQ&sig2=Euw8DuyAAcqURBKS8ShPVw
2004 should be same way as 2003...there isn't a service manual for each year...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Manitou-Annual-Service-Kit-10-Dorado-Pro-Expert-29Er-36mm-/131218510479?pt=US_Forks&hash=item1e8d3b928f


https://www.google.com/search?q=DORADO+service+manual+2005&num=100&newwindow=1&client=firefox-a&hs=Msi&rls=org.mozilla:frfficial&channel=sb&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=miyjU-6DAcrI0QXjvYGYBQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=953&bih=652

http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=153001
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/re/fr/s?q=manitou+dorado
you could probbaly go from an MRD X-works to TPC+ or intrinsic...if you can't find replacement...I serviced 3 travis, and know a little about manitou in case in could help good luck

 

[GCinDC]

one thing that was kinda funny - the seller had it taken apart and packed at bike shop.

the mechanic didn't know it had a hex axle and proceeded to strip the nut. they told the seller and replaced the part at their cost, but were probably pissed and packed it like crap - no padding.

anyway, glad it wasn't me, cause i could totally see myself stripping that! hex axle. who'd a thought! :lol:

big question for me: is it worth the time and effort to get it fixed? i mean at some point, you gotta admit that something is just 10 years old...

and i read somewhere that these forks need maintenance all the time! they will not be getting that, i can assure you.

 

[GCinDC]

called the shockspital (from manitou support page), talked to a nice guy. he called manitou and followed up with me by email:

Unfortunately, parts availability for a Dorado that old is exactly zero. Even Manitou doesn't have anything left. I'm afraid there's nothing we can do for it. Sorry for the bad news. Let me know if I can answer any other questions.

now taking recommendations for great forks under $500, pref under $400. any suggestions?

 

[GCinDC]

kinda like black, big surprise:

holy cannibalization tho.

god, i'm getting sick of the mess...

info:

what firmware version are y'all at?

ps. pretty sure i've got the right internal sensor: KTY81(?) (the only other option is KTY84 and when i select that motor temp jumps from 90F to 150F with full bars).

 

[mafo]

my display shows wrong data from temp sensor if it does not have power from controller.
maybe there is a problem in the cables.

 

[GCinDC]

my display shows wrong data from temp sensor if it does not have power from controller.
maybe there is a problem in the cables.

Interesting. I don't think the system likes my precharge circuit. It's weird: I hit the momentary precharge switch, wait 2 seconds while 'initializing firmware' message flashes, and then flip the breaker and, the first time I do this, I get a !BMS! message.

I turn it off and do it again immediately and there's no !BMS! message. Weird. I'll have to go thru wiring again.

marzocchi fork felt nice on the commute this am.

i'm taking an extended break on the nutty commutes, btw. just riding a lot safer these days. so if you're waiting for another mad vid, forget about it. maybe i'll think of something new to shoot, but feels like i've done everything. lol.

someday i'll put together a catalog of all my ebike vids, since they're mostly unlisted and embedded in pages and pages of my threads... kinda a shame i'm slowing down, cause i'm only at 949 vids on youtube. so it'll take a while longer to reach 1000. :lol:

 

[dan974]

called the shockspital (from manitou support page), talked to a nice guy. he called manitou and followed up with me by email:

Unfortunately, parts availability for a Dorado that old is exactly zero. Even Manitou doesn't have anything left. I'm afraid there's nothing we can do for it. Sorry for the bad news. Let me know if I can answer any other questions.

now taking recommendations for great forks under $500, pref under $400. any suggestions?

open it and take pics, I'll diagnostic it :wink: it seems dead anyway ...@☻least you could sell it as parts on pinbike...

 

[full-throttle]

Hey G, I'm not familiar with Manitous, but it looks like the oil seal is leaking. It can be fixed. Changing oil will make the fork as plush as when it left the factory. The main concern are the bushings. They do wear out and often require specialist tools.

The most reliable forks were made by Marzocchi. 888 MY2007 can still be found ONS. Stay away from the 2008-09 stuff.

Oh, and don't waste brake cleaners on pads. Bake them instead.

 

[GCinDC]

yeah, probably worth a shot w/ new oil/seals. i guess the fork was $1700 new!

looks like this seal kit might be right (or does this one look better?).

more pics:

more cost of the winter, on the marzocchi's..:

it's incredible how the aluminum continues to get eaten away... hoping after some cleanup, the boeshield will help stop it..

 

[GCinDC]

Hey G, I'm not familiar with Manitous, but it looks like the oil seal is leaking. It can be fixed. Changing oil will make the fork as plush as when it left the factory. The main concern are the bushings. They do wear out and often require specialist tools.

The most reliable forks were made by Marzocchi. 888 MY2007 can still be found ONS. Stay away from the 2008-09 stuff.

Oh, and don't waste brake cleaners on pads. Bake them instead.

Thanks, FT. I ordered oil and seals. Gonna take pics once inside of bushings if possible. hopefully won't need 'em. Will count on factory plushness, or send 'em to you for full refund.

You'd be pleased to know that I've been riding nonelectric only lately. Have bikes apart since I seem to lack discipline otherwise!

With being sick since friday, I might have lost close to 10 lbs already!

Anyway, weather's been tropical here w/ frequent afternoon thunderstorms, and after a ride w/ no front fender I got a mouth full of wet grit. So rather than try to enlarge a bike fender, how bout modding an MX fender? I managed to squish this one($25.95 shipped) to see how it looks (rear thing is the homemade one...):

looks atrocious if you don't like fenders... i would totally miss not seeing front wheel..

honestly, i loved the little Marz fender i used. i had a longer fender zip tied underneath it that i just slid out front when it rained. i love the the thought of them retractable...

 

[GCinDC]

is it me, or is something missing on the right leg?

i was looking for the air valve here, but found just a deep hole with a snapped post or something at the bottom?

and axel, the parts arrived from HK, so i built your 4x5s to 5x4s balance wire harness for your adaptto BMS:

 

[broke]

I just read all 105 pages took me 4 days! I'm waiting for my adaptto mini e to come in in the mail almost one month now.
Thanks for all the great info I will be using your battery box and all your great info. I have a kona stinky with a HT 3525. I still have to buy my battery set up.(waiting for my adaptto to come in the mail first) any tips to a lipo, crystalyte, noob would be very very helpful thank you so much for build video's.

 

[dan974]

is it me, or is something missing on the right leg?

something like this or that ? :|
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/re/fr/manitou-dorado-rebound-assembly-2009/rp-prod44536
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/re/fr/manitou-damping-cartridge-tpc-dorado/rp-prod26372

 

[GCinDC]

I just read all 105 pages took me 4 days

wow, that's impressive! i do sometimes get discouraged by BS on the forum, but your comments are encouraging.

any tips to a lipo, crystalyte, noob would be very very helpful

i think lipo is the lightest, cheapest and most powerful, but i'm starting to think the high discharge lifepo4 might be a better move, and i'm very curious about the 18650 cells, esp for triangular packs, but know little about them. but if i could get a triangular 18650 (cylindrical) cell pack, that's safe (unlike lipo) and not too much heavier, i'd go for that. in fact, if anyone has any recommendations in this regard, please post links.

i'm trying to help axel sell the GT bike and am not sure i want to include a lipo pack with it for a noob. i'm ok to take the risks myself, and am now vigilant, but i'm not ok with giving a noob a ticking time boob... here's the old GT back in the shop, BTW:

been riding the road bike again this week. great exercise. even rode home from chiropractor in balston in the DC heat.

have a early PM errand and no time, so saddled up the blue bike and rode in this am. sewed up a bag for it, with the controller inside but heatsink outside. still needs some tweaks:

i gotta upgrade the firmware tho - get occasional !BMS! startup messages. andrey replied on email:

as for bms - for rc7c firmware there is a bug with !bms! at startup first time. Fixed at 8f firmware.

my understanding is that i need to take apart the display, insert SD Card w/ new firmware but love it if someone (Alex?) has more clear steps. Got this from Andrey (but still need to download SW...):

there is an app for write sd card
not just put the file to sd card
http://adaptto.ru/firmware/ get http://adaptto.ru/firmware/RSDWriter.exe
use it for write firmware
use mini-l.bin for default firmware
if you flash mini-u.bin, it will flash unlocked and will allow to set any current in profiles, but cannot flash locked over unlocked and flashing unlocked will void warranty.

meanwhile, our 2004 prius has been giving us fits. short story is: it wouldn't start. tried to jump it in snowstorm but crossed wires. finally had it towed (3am). dealer wanted $550 to fix it. i balked, bought the part (fusable link) on ebay, had an independent shop install it for $200 (only after 3 weeks of constant nagging.)

when we picked it up, it drove, but all the warning lights were still on, looking like christmas:

and these things didn't work: remote key, radio, clock, gas gauge (for first 5 min, then it works) etc, etc.

we could open the door with the manual key, and the car ran ok, but wife kept nagging, so took it into the dealer when they were having a Free Diagnostic ($150 value!). but call back from dealer saying they pulled codes: P0A08 and P0A09 and "Advanced Diagnostics ($550) were necessary to pinpoint the exact problem"... hopefully the fusable link was incorrectly installed.. and that price wouldn't cover fixing any of the electrical oddities..

so yesterday, i got the news:

Hello Mr...,

I just received a report back from the technician pinpointing our exact issue with the vehicle. Unfortunately it seems the issue with the Prius and it's lack of ability to run is the
Hybrid Inverter indeed. As we had discussed before, the Hybrid Inverter replacement would cost $5,590 including parts, labor, shop supplies and sales tax. please let me know, at your earliest convenience, how to procedd.

Thank you

blue book on fair condition 2004 prius is ~$7000.

so what to do?
A. thank the dealer very much, but bring it home for hospice (and use it in emergency when we need the 2nd vehicle?)
B. donate or junk it (~500 value) - Also an option after (A).
C. harvest the cells?

 

[GCinDC]

something like this or that ? :|
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/re/fr/manitou-dorado-rebound-assembly-2009/rp-prod44536
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/re/fr/manitou-damping-cartridge-tpc-dorado/rp-prod26372

maybe. i just can't tell if something is missing there. seems like the fork is supposed to have high pressure air valve. is that what the TPC damping cartridge is?

i might as well and go ahead and replace the oil/seals but am scared i won't be able to get it back together. or wonder if something else is broken if it's even worth it. when compressing, the air side seems dead, where the oil side has an even stroke... i guess there's nothing to lose tho, huh?

 

[crezzy2k1]

Doesn't the Prius use NIMH Cells. Would it be worth it?

I did a quick search on eBay and an inverter came back at 1100. I'm sure you could probably find one cheaper than that even. If it were me i'd go about attempting a replacement of that, if that's not something you want to do i'd probably keep it as a second car, those things get pretty good mileage even without EV assistance.

 

[Brake]

Use a SDHC card. RSDwriter.exe run on your computer and choose the mini-l.bin file for the locked version. Download everything from electrotransport.ru. Not sure if you can use the card again for anything else after its been formatted with the firmware. You only have to remove the top two screws to open the display enough to insert the card. Power it up and update. One thing I had to do, that they recommend on electrotransport, is to perform a full reset afterwards. Mine acted funny before I did that.