HS3540 BOSS BUILD. Now H4065 Boss Build

[Trackman417]

Sweet Jesus
Was that peeling skin that I saw?
I think you win for the worst KFF on this forum, atleast.
The worst I got was when I had a temporary setup before my harness came in from icecube, so I was using aligator clips solders to anderson. I was not paying attention and become a reverse polarity victim . Completely charred the andersons and got that classic smell "you messed up really bad with electricity" on my hands.
Long story short you still win How long did your hand to take to heal?

 

[Trackman417]

Does anybody on here know of a solution to mount Andersons to a wall? My plan is to glue the Anderson's and my D-Sub connectors together so it is impossible to plug the cell parallel connector when the packs are seriesed. I just pulled the same stunt yesterday connecting the D-sub connector in while the series plug was in place. The result was pretty good! I learned that the D-Sub pins will melt long before the balance wires are over stressed 8) . But seriously I can't keep doing this. I am thinking about getting a BMS and sent Illia a couple emails. He states that he does sell lipo BMS' and lipo battery packs. However if I buy the BMS separately, there is not warranty on it. That and it costs $150. If I can just make a solution to glue the Anderson's and the D-sub together that would be ideal.
Thanks for your input. It will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Trackman417]

So to see if I can revive this thread.

I thought I had a battery that was a little puffed in one of the corners..... So I decided to throw a 5S 8aH zippy pack into a container of water. . Well its been a month and half, and I finally remembered about it. I emptied the water out and found that the battery had puffed greatly. But that did not concern me. What did concern me was what was floating in the water.

I know it cant be dust or anything because I have buckets of water everywhere and they do not have anything like this in the water.

 

[hydro-one]

lol, youve got the best long term lipo chemistry experiment!! that stuff is actually magic smoke, the water has somehow condensed it into a solid state!! you may have solved a great riddle, how to contain the magic smoke, now see what u can do to collect it up and bottle it!!!! im in for a few bottles...... yes that was skin coming off the hand and it took around a week or two.im much carefuller now

 

[Trackman417]

lol, youve got the best long term lipo chemistry experiment!! that stuff is actually magic smoke, the water has somehow condensed it into a solid state!! you may have solved a great riddle, how to contain the magic smoke, now see what u can do to collect it up and bottle it!!!! im in for a few bottles......

HAHA thats too funny. I just want to dump this stupid battery into a trash dump but it wont be very environmentally friendly with all that lithium :? . So I am going to keep it for an extra month and then drop it off into a battery collection container we have at our borough hall .

yes that was skin coming off the hand and it took around a week or two.im much carefuller now

I think after anyone's first electric shock they are more careful. After I redid my soldering on the D-sub connector I was still shaking with the possibility of there being an electric shock. I just can not wait to get my hands on some more lipo to get my bike into the 100V range. Thats when I start to make lightning...... right? :lol:

 

[Trackman417]

Alright guys. More updates to come Been a while. I have been extremely busy working on my bike and at work.... To pay for all the things on the bike.
Got the guts to try and open the hub motor today and I must say, I have rode the H3540 at 2500 plus watts for a 1000 miles and the motor windings are prestine . More pics of upgrades later... Stay tuned :wink:

 

[FfredDRredD]

Nice!!

 

[Trackman417]

Sorry guys, forgot to update you like I said I would .
Well anyways alot of major changes over the summer. In short, for those who dont feel like reading a lot. I replaced the custom hand made battery boxes with a Falcon EV frame bag. Got a good upgrade for 12 4s turnigy hardcases. I just run 5s2P with them. 100v is too twitchy for me to care about, and it heats up the motor unnecessarily. After my 100 volt test I was melting handfuls of ice cubes on the side covers.
Now the updates and explanations and such.
I am a big fan of paralleling at the cell level when ever necessary, however I am not a big fan of soldering all of the balance wires. When I was making my order from epbuddy, they didn't have any 2-1 4s balance plugs. So I just went for the 1-1 balance plugs and did a ton of soldering. I first tinned all of the wires, that was the easy part. Then I had to do all of the soldering.... with two hands. Luckily I found two alligator clips in my tool box. Life is good. Especially when I was about to throw them away a couple nights before . usually, I throw the item away then I realize I need it.
Sorry for the small photos.
After doing all of the soldering I heat shrunk all of the wires and made it into one giant wire.... sort of.
After that I just cycled all of the turnigy's to check if they would stay in balance. Low and behold, they all did. No duds from HK yet.
After the cycling I went for my first and probably only 100V run. One reason is the amount of space left in my bag and the second:

It looks like hell! Look at the ambilical cord of battery's and such..... No thank you Also look at the Series plug. 6 anderson in total. Courtesy of Icecube56. If you dont want to crimp and such PM him, he will set you up with a great harness that works flawlessly. I was probably his favorite customer at one time or another for all the shorts I was making.
I quickly found out that a row of 6X2 turingy's will fit conveniently along the bottom tube of my bike with just a couple inches to spare. So that led to the creation of my master peice :wink:
View attachment 4
I first duct taped two hard cases side by side. Then I laid them out long ways, put the row of tunrgy's in between two peices of wood, duct taped them to the wood across the two battery's, and then long ways. This makes a ridged battery block that is easily removable from the frame bag. I then put the other four battery's standing up next to the rear shock. The end product looks rather professional if I do say so myself.
Took a picture of the bike while sitting for lunch at a park near work. There is nothing better then leaving where you work for a nice ride and a sandwich.

 

[Trackman417]

So I finally found a source for a H4065 motor hear in America! :wink:
I am looking forward to receiving the motor during the first week of December, if Justin does not want to take the motor into his lab and put it on his simulator. I think it will be pretty cool. I wont be using the motor for a while until the whether warms up. Then out with the HS3540 and let's put in the H4065 . I guess I will have to solder the shunt on my existing controller or get a new controller to make use of the extra power this thing will be able to put out.

 

[Trackman417]

Alrighty, well heres the motor. Took about a month to get here from the first emails to getting the motor, so that is not too bad for a custom order.
This thing is heavy and it looks heavy duty. The first think I need to figure out is if kenny keeps all of his hall sensor pinouts the same for each motor. I do not have a Mini XLR plug on my controller but will make a little adapter. I like keeping things as stock as possible but it may not stay stock for long, if I need to upgrade the phase cables.

The thing I noticed when I was taking the photo's is that the motor already has a temp sensor inside of the motor and a little wire coming out. What can I use that would be able to display the temperature inside the motor? I hear the CA v3 has a temp sensor read out, but I don't feel like buying it until all of the wrinkles are already ironed out of it.
Does anybody have any directions to be pointed in in terms of finding a good rim to mount the motor in along with spokes? I am thinking about taking my HS3540 out of it rim and lacing into there and selling the motor without the rim.
On another really cool note, I think I am the first Endless-sphere member in the US that currently owns this motor . Awesome.

 

[litespeed]

Not to burst your bubble but I got my 4065 a few weeks back, heck might even be a month by now. Mine went from Kenny to Ilia where he installed it on a 26" Psycho rim, wired it to my Lyen 18 FET that he was gracious enough to go pick up for me from Lyen and shipped it back here to Missouri. Unfortunately I'm on the slow boat on my DH Team build because I the busiest I have been all year with my company (home builder doing remodeling!). Christmas is right around the corner and we haven't even started shopping or put up the tree.

Rate I'm going you will be done first.

I would get a new rim for the new motor. You'd save 50 bux max by using the rim you have and seeing how costly a wheel build is it would only make sense to leave the 3540 built to either use again or sell ready to go.

Tom

 

[Trackman417]

Haha well it looks like I'll be the first one in this forum in the US to get this motor up and running 8) .
No I'm on the same boat as you are. This thing is not leaving its box until I can get it laced into a rim, and I won't run it until the weather gets warmer and until I sell my other motor. But that's ok for right now. I have some mods I would like to give it anyway, such as some bigger phase wires and look inside to satisfy my curiosity. Do you know if these motors have the wire cut issue? Did your motor come with a temp sensor wire as well?

 

[mvly]

What is the difference between the HS3540 vs the H4065? I am assuming 40mm width magnets? So a bit more powerful compared to the HS3540? I am assuming the 65 means 65kmph @ 48V? If so, then does this mean the 5404 actually have 54mm width magnet? I am still confused about Crystalyte naming convention.

 

[litespeed]

mvly,

The 65KPH is at 72 volts. The 40 series speeds are all at 72 volts and the 35 series is at 48 volts, now how's that for confusing? I thought I read somewhere that the 53/54 series had 40mm stators (might have been 42mm?) also but way more mass (read heavy!) which will let them handle way more heat (read wasted power!).

Track,

Mine also has the temp wire which I plan to use just have to find out what I can use with it. Hopefully someone will chime in with some ideas at some point or I'll make a special thread just to find out. Not sure about the "cut wire" thingie....do tell! The phase wires seem to be the same size as my Lyen 18FET so at this point I'm leaving everything the way it is. In the past with many other things I found out that some mods are not needed so after some full throttle fun I'll find out if that is needed.

Tom

 

[Trackman417]

What is the difference between the HS3540 vs the H4065? I am assuming 40mm width magnets? So a bit more powerful compared to the HS3540? I am assuming the 65 means 65kmph @ 48V? If so, then does this mean the 5404 actually have 54mm width magnet? I am still confused about Crystalyte naming convention.

What litespeed said

Mine also has the temp wire which I plan to use just have to find out what I can use with it. Hopefully someone will chime in with some ideas at some point or I'll make a special thread just to find out. Not sure about the "cut wire" thingie....do tell! The phase wires seem to be the same size as my Lyen 18FET so at this point I'm leaving everything the way it is. In the past with many other things I found out that some mods are not needed so after some full throttle fun I'll find out if that is needed.

Tom

Guess you are right about not swapping out the wires just yet. I do not plan on pumping too much power into this monster just yet. I will start off with my standard 20S lipo and 40 amps. See if that gives me some wheeling fun, then I will see what I can do about soldering the shunt or buying a 12fet lyen controller and have him program it to 60 amps or so. I am also waiting for someone on here to start producing a chromoly frame that is nice and affordable for a guy on a budget. I do not feel too comfortable with my aluminum frame I have now, but it is rideable. I just heard about a pawn shop near me that is selling bikes, so I will try them out i two weeks when finals are over with.

 

[pendragon8000]

litespeed has the right idea with the psycho rim. I mesaged a velocity sponcered rider and he responded "psychos are legit."
here he is on his psychos..........
[youtube]SbG3-G0R7pQ[/youtube]
I was going to use a 29" version but wasn't available so went with p35, also a good option in the 26" at 35mm wide but its not as much mass of metal.
i reakon these are 2 good options other than velocities psycho and p35
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12318

........................................
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34449

 

[Trackman417]

Alright!
Thanks a lot pendragon!
Right now I am torn between a motorcycle rim and a regular old bike rim. One advantage I found out with the motorcycle rim is that's it's heavy duty. And adding a good tire to it will make the OD of the wheel 25". So I get that extra torque and strength.
But idk yet. I might hit up my local moped shop and see what they have. But when the motorcycle rim fails I'll have some pretty awesome wheelset. :wink:

 

[pendragon8000]

Excellent Trackman. Keep us updated. Moped rim would be boss build

 

[Lussy]

Hi guys,
I have just bought a 4065 from kenny and it arrived yesterday. I will install in my cromo keewee FS frame and have a 24 FET, 80A greentime controller on the way, run at 19s

Are the phase wire and hall sensor wires the same pin out as the crystalyte standard (HS3540 etc) ? I also have the pre-installed white temp sensor wire and wondering how this can be displayed. Dumb question, how do the BBQ type sensors that are commonly added to hub motors work? Do they send on a signal from the probe or are they measureing the temp in the wire when it reaches the sensor? I have asked Kenny about the temp sensor but no reply yet.

Any running experiance yet? Do the phase wires need upgrading?

Appreciate any thoughts.

Cheers
Matt

 

[dan974]

where did you get the greentime controller plz @ what price ?

 

[Lussy]

Greentime controller from aliexpress, cost $92.68, 124 with delivery to NZ

http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/210404902.html

I have been using the 15 Fet, 45a version for the last few months, works great, doesn't get very warm. Will see how the 24 fet 80a version goes!!

Cheers Matt

 

[pendragon8000]

Hi guys,
I have just bought a 4065 from kenny and it arrived yesterday. I will install in my cromo keewee FS frame and have a 24 FET, 80A greentime controller on the way, run at 19s

Are the phase wire and hall sensor wires the same pin out as the crystalyte standard (HS3540 etc) ? I also have the pre-installed white temp sensor wire and wondering how this can be displayed. Dumb question, how do the BBQ type sensors that are commonly added to hub motors work? Do they send on a signal from the probe or are they measureing the temp in the wire when it reaches the sensor? I have asked Kenny about the temp sensor but no reply yet.

Any running experiance yet? Do the phase wires need upgrading?

Appreciate any thoughts.

Cheers
Matt

I have a 3540, take a photo for us of the phase wire plug if... mine was a 4 pin mini din.
As for temp sensor, use the cycle analyst v3 . It can show the temp (may have to open the motor and put a different sensor in there, check the beta thread) or use it on the aux in and calibrate to limit power when it gets warm/hot , would be a mice dynamicly proportional limiter , probably would need a 5k trim put in series with it to calibrate it.
.......the CA v3 post...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=37964&p=585768&hilit=thermistor#p585768
........Hyena's post about thermistors in the 4065
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=8482&start=1950#p678304

 

[Trackman417]

Hi guys,
I have just bought a 4065 from kenny and it arrived yesterday. I will install in my cromo keewee FS frame and have a 24 FET, 80A greentime controller on the way, run at 19s

Are the phase wire and hall sensor wires the same pin out as the crystalyte standard (HS3540 etc) ? I also have the pre-installed white temp sensor wire and wondering how this can be displayed. Dumb question, how do the BBQ type sensors that are commonly added to hub motors work? Do they send on a signal from the probe or are they measureing the temp in the wire when it reaches the sensor? I have asked Kenny about the temp sensor but no reply yet.

Any running experiance yet? Do the phase wires need upgrading?

Appreciate any thoughts.

Cheers
Matt

I bet the wiring colors would be the same. If they weren't it wouldn't be good on crystalytes part. But anything can happen with these chinese dealers these days .
The problem with the temp sensor is you need to find one that is made/programmed for your monitor. Hyena said he thinks the temp sensors are 2K. When you find a 2K thermometer, let me know. I have been looking for one myself.


On other news let the record be shown about the true weight of these H40 series motors. After guestimations and such I went for true accuracy from a scale that weighs and prices fish . These things are the heaviest 17.11 pounds I have ever encountered.

 

[pendragon8000]

what about 2 of these in series?

2k ohm ntc thermister
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RN3436
i think justin said something about using two in series to get the right resistance. you could put them in diferent spots on the coils to get a more average/accurate messurement.

 

[NeilP]

Nice build..came in late here/...subscribed