HS3540 BOSS BUILD. Now H4065 Boss Build

Hey Trackman,
It'll be great to see this temperature reading setup.
Just had a look at the picture in the motor that you quoted... the text in the quote says tap - and + hall, one will be done already for the old sensor.
Seems like you don't understand? Not dissing you, its just that it seems like you asked the same question a few times.
Hopefully I'm getting a new motor soon and I will atempt to fill the youtube void of how to :thermostat the halls, air cool or oil cool, and hook temp sensor to CA v3. DrBass has some videos but shows end result more than how to.
 
pendragon8000 said:
Just had a look at the picture in the motor that you quoted... the text in the quote says tap - and + hall, one will be done already for the old sensor.
Seems like you don't understand? Not dissing you, its just that it seems like you asked the same question a few times.
Hopefully I'm getting a new motor soon and I will atempt to fill the youtube void of how to :thermostat the halls, air cool or oil cool, and hook temp sensor to CA v3. DrBass has some videos but shows end result more than how to.

Whoa man. You want to fight?! I'll punch your teeth in. :p
Yeah I don't understand at all. I look forward to seeing your you tube vid. As you can clearly see I am a visual learner. You can't tell me anything. You have to show me via really HD pictures and arrows and maybe just flying on over here to just show me where everything goes. I'm not like GCinDC. I can't just guess how things go and have it work. Something has to catostrophically fail after i unknowingly set it up and then I buy another and then I get it to work right :mrgreen:

As things stand with this motor, having a temp sensor isn't my priority right now. Getting spring to roll on by is :D
 
Kung Fu has nothing on this. :mrgreen: . You must be pretty fit then? Have you ever tried competing in a Tough Mudder? I'm training for one as we speak. It's basically a 13 mile long obstacle course. Full of ropes to clumped 14 foot walls to jump off of. You have to sign a waiver just to run it :D . 'Cause it wouldn't be any fun to run without having to sign a waiver :p .
Anyways, back to the important stuff. This isn't a forum for working out and getting pecks.
When you get the video up please tell me. Don't post it on my thread, post it on GCinDC's thread..... I think he needs it more then I do :lol: .
You stated something about deciding which motor you are going to get. Anyone's in you are looking at in particular? Is the new crown motor taking you over?
 
that obstacle course sounds awsome :) . yeah im pretty fit, not as fit as i was when compeating but i run a fitness class twice a week using striking based high intensity interval training, warm up with 200 front kick 200 side kicks, usually finish off with 100 push-up burppees. Sorry a bit off topic, but i love fittness so couldn't help myself.

as for a motor I am looking at the HT3525 on 100v(24s lipo) Still cant get a reply from kenny at crystalyte, and have a controller liened up from Lyen with the high voltage 4115 fets . just been playing with the bike lastnight and today, got hookworm tyre on the back and crazy bob on front. and new rear shock . sag is good at 33% but looks redicolous without rider on, the rake is soo steep. new biger forks with a spacer under the frame will help though. I dont want too much weight in the hub so ht3525 looks like a good option. and with oil cooling the lack of "heat inertia" will be ok.(if i dont go oil, then i will use a shit load of holes grouped together away from the side plate screws on disk side, and some closer in on gears side.

btw was just going over this thread from the start and realised it was one of the first builds i studied b4 making my first bike.
 
pendragon8000 said:
that obstacle course sounds awsome :) . yeah im pretty fit, not as fit as i was when compeating but i run a fitness class twice a week using striking based high intensity interval training, warm up with 200 front kick 200 side kicks, usually finish off with 100 push-up burppees. Sorry a bit off topic, but i love fittness so couldn't help myself.
I like working out. It helps me keep focused and stay more at ease with my self. It is a rather nice life style and it makes riding an ebike that much more enjoyable. You want to PM me a training program I can use for balance and simple workouts? I got no weights at home and no time to join a gym. That would be greatly appreciated.
lol I started it, no need to be sorry :p . Look at GCinDC's thread, it's always being derailed by other people other than him :lol: . But his thread is also way more awesome than mine :( . Like I stated earlier. Progress in my thread is like watching paint dry. Mostly because I did not win thousands... Well I almost did today because a really awesome stock I bought a month or two ago that doubled in price. "Come on mommy needs a new controller" :D

pendragon8000 said:
as for a motor I am looking at the HT3525 on 100v(24s lipo) Still cant get a reply from kenny at crystalyte, and have a controller liened up from Lyen with the high voltage 4115 fets . just been playing with the bike lastnight and today, got hookworm tyre on the back and crazy bob on front. and new rear shock . sag is good at 33% but looks redicolous without rider on, the rake is soo steep. new biger forks with a spacer under the frame will help though. I dont want too much weight in the hub so ht3525 looks like a good option. and with oil cooling the lack of "heat inertia" will be ok.(if i dont go oil, then i will use a shit load of holes grouped together away from the side plate screws on disk side, and some closer in on gears side.

btw was just going over this thread from the start and realised it was one of the first builds i studied b4 making my first bike.

Baha! it's good to know that I was an inspiration to someone! What kind of wine boxes and glue are you using for your build :mrgreen:

Isnt the Chinese new year around this time of the year? That could be one very good reason why Kenny hasn't responded at all mate. But that is just a good guess. But it would explain it. Whenever I emailed him he always got back to me within a day or two. Doesn't hurt to send another email either, in case he just skipped over you. I can't believe that no one is selling those motors anymore, ever since methods and ebikessf.com ran out there went all of the suppliers I knew that had them :? . What do you plan to do with the HT3525 running all of that power any way, Climb mount everest?

Good choice with the lyen controller. I am thinking about buying a 12 fet lyen controller or a crystalyte 18 Fet. Decisions Decisions.
For an couple extra dollars going with the crystalyte 18 fet would be a win with handling the 60 amps no problem. Programming could be an issue but that is because of the person wiring up the controller (me). I haven't found a thread with 10,000 pics showing how to wire the controller up for programming.
With the Lyen 12 fet it comes pre-programmable. All I would have to do is see if lyen can set up the JST-XH connectors for me and the power wires and then I will be golden.
Anybody have any recommendations?
 
Lussy said:
I believe the white wire is connected to a 2k thermistor with the other side of the thermistor connected to the -ve signal from the Halls.....I have connected mine up to CAv3 and it works great. I plugged the white wire into the yellow input (NTC input). You need to change the CA settings to a linear device and set up the zero and slop point from the graph below.
What does it do then? As the motor heats up, what do you experience? Do you configure the CA to cut out at a certain temp? Or does it retard the throttle?

My biggest concern is loosing juice in the middle of an intersection... :shock:

That and spending 10 hours reading the CA V3 thread. :lol:
 
GC,
I'm really just using my CA3 to monitor temp but you can set the high temp limit, the point whter the CA "takes over" and kills the output. i have set mine at 140oC.
After reading through pages and pages of the CA3 threat, It's actually really simple to set up.
1) plug the white wire into the yellow NTC input
2) schrol through the CA3 set-up menus until you get to the temp monitoring.
3) change the mode to linear device
4) set the 0 deg. C at ~ 1.2 V
5) set the slop at ~ 140 deg C / V
6) set your cut off temp limit

My only negative comment is that the signal is quite noisy (2-3 deg. C rapid movement) under acceletration. I believe this is because the other end of the thermistor is connected to the hall earth and is subject to "voltage sag". It doesn't bother me as it is more than accurate enough for my purpose so I haven't attempted to fix. However I understand that by connecting the CA earth (other temp sensor plug) directly to the termistor this can be fixed. This will require removing the hub covers and running an addintioal wire. Joe Perez has another fix by modding the CA circuit board. Again I don't believe the problem justifies the effor to remidy.

Cheers
Matt
 
hope you don't mind hosting this discussion, track... i'll draw you a nice diagram of how to use the halls if you're going to use the VT monitor...
Lussy said:
I'm really just using my CA3 to monitor temp...
so does the CA actually DISPLAY the temp?? if you see rapid fluctuations, that implies you can see an actual XX degree C/F on the CA?? or are you 'monitoring' it by regularly hitting 140C and then cooling off, etc?

Joe Perez has another fix by modding the CA circuit board. Again I don't believe the problem justifies the effor to remidy.
is that the one in this post, where he "placed a 390 ohm resistor between the LM35's output and ground"? I guess not since in that post he's referring to an LM35 not a thermistor...

ps. just noticed a more useful image in the thermal sensor thread:
20120515_214705.jpg

here i replaced the existing thermistor (not shown) with a 3 legged LM35. of the three wires, the bottom two had been connected to the thermistor. i figured out the polarity of the LM35 and reconnected them. then i identified the hall + already inside the motor. how to do that? well, you have 5 hall wires going in, right? where the meet near the hall sensors, it's easy to identify the blue, yellow and green where that go to each respective hall. then you need to identify the GND which is spliced into three wires, each of which go to the GND leg of each hall. then you find the red + hall wire that also goes to each of the three halls. in the photo, can you see under the zip tie where the yellow wire is partially stripped? that's where i tapped the + Hall. ignore the fact that it's yellow. inside the motor they use all kinds of colors. you need to use a multimeter to verify continuity between the + wire inside the motor and the red terminal at the hall to be sure... :wink:

after you do that, you still only have one white wire coming out of the motor, and you can't just plug that into your VT monitor. you need to splice the +/GND hall wires somewhere else - i do it right at the back of the hall connector that goes into the controller. then i run the white wire and the +/GND wires from the hall connector up to the handlebar and plug them into the VT display.

the halls current is enough to power the display! but you will also notice you can power it w/ a different source off the other black/red wires. here's a way to do it (though I fried my halls by wiring it wrong so won't bother...) :oops:
file.php
 
Yes the CA3 displays the actual temp on the main screen. It flicks every few seconds between ah used, km travelled and temp.
Yes the post about the 390 ohm resister is the one I was referring to, not specific to this thermistor but fixes the same problem.
Can't help with the lm35, don't know anything about it.
Cheers Matt
 
GCinDC said:
hope you don't mind hosting this discussion, track... i'll draw you a nice diagram of how to use the halls if you're going to use the VT monitor...
Dude, you are the man. You can take this discussion to any place you want. 8)
Thanks for everything.
So the three color wires go to the three different halls, while the black and red wires essentially power the halls? Sounds a lot easier now!
Just to make sure I have this straight; the -VE the ground for the halls (aka the black wire?).

pendragon8000 said:
I'm getting my hub from john from stealth ebikes. Got referred by Kenny. No temp sensor though. I'll look at adding one.

I'll connect the sensor to a transistor circuit that switches the power mode to low.

Yeah I don't know why 6kw... fun?
Nice 8)
Sounds like you will be ripping up the streets and such. Why not get the crown motor for the extra $100 or so? It will be lighter and perform more efficiently.
Regarding what you said earlier about running the motor at 100V and using 4115 fets. Why not use 4110? You can push more power through them and will the 4115 fets work if they are below their spec'd operating voltage? I would go with the 4110's they are cheaper and will be more practical. I may get a 12fet 4110 from lyen instead of the 18 fet crystalyte. He will mod the shunt to allow the controller to push around 60 amps. Good stuff, I can't wait to see how this beast will perform 8)
 
Trackman417 said:
Nice 8)
Sounds like you will be ripping up the streets and such. Why not get the crown motor for the extra $100 or so? It will be lighter and perform more efficiently.
Regarding what you said earlier about running the motor at 100V and using 4115 fets. Why not use 4110? You can push more power through them and will the 4115 fets work if they are below their spec'd operating voltage? I would go with the 4110's they are cheaper and will be more practical. I may get a 12fet 4110 from lyen instead of the 18 fet crystalyte. He will mod the shunt to allow the controller to push around 60 amps. Good stuff, I can't wait to see how this beast will perform 8)
well the 4115 fets go upto 150v so i can run 30s 125v if i decide 100v isnt enough. and the crow will i havent looked at it really, i was doing a quick look at alteratives b4 i pulled the trigger but im happy with the ht3525, on the ebike.ca simulator it gives the results i want and ive prety much desighned me build around the controller and motor.

I'll start a new thread soon for the build soon...
but anyway i got my new forks and for some reason i ordered the wrong size steer tube (1.5" instead of 1.25") cos the origional one i ordered had "FULLFILLMENT ISSUES" so im gunna mod the frame to take a 1.5" steer tube , shouldn't be too hard. i'd send the forks back(or try) but i actually got a sick deal and the forks are pretty rad..
btw paid $480 for motor in wheel ready to go 26" 38mm rim, 12g spokes. and john from stealth was really easy to deal with.
I'm thinking more air cooling than oil just cos its easyer and acording to GCinDC's results air is pretty good. I have air on my hs3540 in 29 " on 3kw and isnt too bad.
anyway, off to metal supliers :/
 
Are there any other places where I can buy the 4065?

I cannot seem to get a response from Kenny@crystalyte.com, unless there is another way to contact him?
 
If Kenny doesn't respond. Try finding a retailer who buys hub motors from crystalyte. It helps with shipper price of shipping from china to since your motor is tagging along with others. I don't like talking to Kenny, he isn't very clear. So I let the retailers deal with him :mrgreen: .
I talked to litespeed and he paid about $75 more than I did because of shipping. That is enough to get you half of a good controller.
 
sacko said:
What retailer is currently stocking these?

I cant seem to find them anywhere at the moment :)
No retailer, that I know of, is stocking these beasts. You have to go through the retailer and ask them to order it for you.
Illia at ebikessf.com will start selling them but the date keeps getting pushed back. :( and high power cycles is elling their own "custom version" for a quite a price.
 
sacko said:
Are there any other places where I can buy the 4065?

I cannot seem to get a response from Kenny@crystalyte.com, unless there is another way to contact him?

I was able to get onto him a few weeks ago regarding the 4065
Price was $280 plus $150 in shipping to get it to Melbourne, Australia :D
 
millzy555 said:
sacko said:
Are there any other places where I can buy the 4065?

I cannot seem to get a response from Kenny@crystalyte.com, unless there is another way to contact him?

I was able to get onto him a few weeks ago regarding the 4065
Price was $280 plus $150 in shipping to get it to Melbourne, Australia :D

I feel bad for you Aussies, all the fun stuff seems to be harder to get. Right now there are three places I can get a H40 series motor and I think I'm limited :oops: .

Speaking of them, I just sent Kenny an email last night about the paint chipping, he told me to deal with the people I bought it from. So I emailed electric rider, and they said that the case is an allow so it won't rust. It will only then brown. I'm fine with that :mrgreen: . They so recommended I get some automotive touch up paint on the motor if I wanted. Electric rider is the best place to do business with. Heck those guys and ebikes.ca are all great! Disclaimer: Iwasn't paid to say the above comment in any way shape or form. Just to keep the monkeys off my back :p

Ebikessf.com finally get their H40 series motors in. Naming convention is a bit odd though :? The km/hr records are cut in half, I guess to keep things in the similar voltage rating as the H35 series motor?
 
Alrighty guys!
Snow storm Rocky just deposited some of the best snow for making stuff, so me and my bro decided to shovel the driveway and build a 9-10 foot snowman! :mrgreen: :twisted:
It was a blast that lasted about an hour of heaving huge ass snow balls into place. But fun. Wish we did this more often. With out further ado,
View attachment 1

Just so you guys know, I am 5 foot 11 inches, and this thing is like Shaq compared to me. Got a good amount of attention with snow plows driving through, they wanted to take pictures of it. Guess we did a pretty darn good job then 8) .
 
It appears to be missing it's "corn cob pipe and a button nose, and two eyes made out of coal......"

He's blind.....the first ever handicap snowman. Now that is totally politically correct!

:wink:

Tom
 
litespeed said:
It appears to be missing it's "corn cob pipe and a button nose, and two eyes made out of coal......"
Alrighty. Listen hear, guy, I put a ton of work into that snow man for critisicism for what it doesn't have?
Yeah it does need all of that, doesn't it. Its got the classic stick arms though! :p
After spending an hour of making snowballs that's could crush a small child I got tired of finding out ways to hoist the snow balls up over my head. Note: the other snow ball behind me. It's what we used to get the head on in peices lol.
All that work is for not because it got so warm after the snow, it's leaning problem got worse, and well fell over. Didn't even stand up for a day.

Lite speed I bet you would like this! Going for a ride to work today because of the awesome weather! Can't wait to try the 4065 out at 20s 8) . It ought to be pretty awesome. You go riding lately?
 
I tried replying while out today but my Galaxy III was giving me fits. We were supposed to have sunny and almost 70 degrees and I awoke to thunder storms and major rain! By 3pm the sun came out and I was able to sneak away for a ride around 5pm. I tried to keep it in the mid 20's for awhile and I was pulling 8 to 10 amps to maintain that speed on a smooth gravel path we call the Katy Trail. I took it on some wet soggy leaf infested trails that rose a good 100 ft in about a quarter mile and it climbed it like a billy goat. Motor was warm and so was the controller, less than 100 degrees. My full 24s15 amp pack of mixed cells came in at 3.8 to 3.9 per cell. Crazy how well these stayed in sink to one another.

This bike is just excellent.

Tom
 
Hate the weather channel :x . I want to get paid to be wrong! Whenever I bet on them i lose, whenever I don't I lose again. lol. Had to commute in the rain because they said it wasn't supposed to rain or be cloudy. Then I get out of work, and I am commuting in the rain.
Yeah man its crazy. I really like my 4065! I am running 20S lipo and a 40 amp controller. I think this thing is a total work horse. :mrgreen: . I was waiting at a stop light and when it turned green I did my usual WOT and forgot to place my weight on the front wheel, and the motor pulled the bike vertical, which is where I somehow slipped my hand off of the throttle. Pretty cool. At 25 mph I was pulling around 15 amps cruising up a pretty steep hill, one that would have dropped the speed of my 3540 rather quickly but this thing tackled it like a champ. Going to do some more riding tomorrow. Supposed to be even nicer! I top out at around 35 mph instead of the usual 40 though. But i don't miss that 5 mph one bit :mrgreen: . I want to see what kind of economy this thing can get. I want to commute to and from school with this bike.
 
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