HS3540 much friction on shaft

[stefan010]

Dear Ebikers.

Recently my Crystalite HS3540 motor has a problem , it gives pretty much friction on the shaft.
When there is enough power aviable its no problem , but is drains batt pretty fast and also the speed is not optimal because of the friction. But when no power its very hard , to pedal the bike itself because of the friction. Anyone has this problem before?

 

[dogman dan]

Sure the friction is mechanical? Sounds like you have a shorted phase, or for some other reason, a motor that cogs like crazy.

If it's mechanical, and a new bearing does not fix, then you bent the axle.

 

[stefan010]

hey i dont know if there is shorted phase , if there was shorted phase the motor wouldnt work anymore right ?
How do i check if there is a phase shorted
Bearing replacment would be hard i think especialy to get the wheel open

 

[MadRhino]

Unplug the phase connectors, and try to pedal the bike. If it is much easier, you have a short.

 

[MadRhino]

Bearings are cheap and easy to replace, but the originals can last very long and it is more likely that your problem is elsewhere.

 

[stefan010]

Thnx for the tip Guys ! The wheel is now +3 years old. and i think put 10.000km on it.
I think indeed there maybe is an internal short , if that could be possible.
But know i have to find out the internal short , any suggestion on that.
I already figure out opening the front is very hard because the screws on it are very thight I alreadt messed up some screw by putting to much force in it .
So any one have suggestions on how to remove that messed up screws .

 

[izeman]

a more appropriate complete test would be to unplug the controller, then check how hard it is to turn the wheel.
and then connect 2 phase wires together, check again, and then do again with 2 others. that way you can be 100% sure if it's a shorted phase.

 

[stefan010]

Yes is still the guessing phase , but I did the following :
1 : Unplugged the connector
2 : Try spin wheel no effect still gives friction
3 : put 2 wires together L1-L2 , L2-L3 , L3-L1 all these this combinations gives abit more friction then step 2
4: Put all wires together this gives the strongest friction .

Well im still in period of guessing , im thinking of a small internal short circuit.
But i have to figure it out by opening the wheel.

 

[izeman]

ok. that sounds good. if resistance didn't change when you unplugged the controller this indicates that there is no short in the controller.
as the resistance got stronger by putting any 2 phase wires together this indicates that there is no internal short.
so it looks to me like a physical damage. probably one of the bearings.
i would take the hub apart and check.

 

[MadRhino]

+1

Your controller is good, and your motor windings are good.

You will have to open the motor anyway, unless you suddenly find an external friction factor (brake, wheel rub, chain line obstruction...).

The screws are cheap crap and you will replace them all (4.5mm if I remember well). I use to say "they are not Imperial, nor exactly Metric, They are Chinese" . Cut a slot in the head of those that you damaged, to be able to unscrew them with a flat screwdriver. For the others, make sure to use the proper size Allen Key and you should take them out without any problem. Put a mark on covers placement vs rotor. You will need to re-install them exactly at their respective place, guess why :wink:

 

[stefan010]

Hey thn the tips so far .
I was on a short vacation so i couldt go on with it. So 2night i had some freetime i managed to unscrew , the screws ( the cut in the screws and bigscrewdriver did the job)
I only still cant rotor out , any one of you have some advice to take out the rotor.
I only take out the screws on the side where brake disk is installed , do i need tot take out the screws on otherside also ?
View attachment 1

 

[izeman]

ideally you need a three arm puller.

 

[amberwolf]

Or put the axle end (of the side that is still screwed on) on a concrete surface, then grip the tire and rim and push down with your weight on that. This should push open the cover that is not screwed on, and pop out the stator.

But...if the cover is stuck or glued on (sometimes done for waterproofing) it is possible to crack the cover this way.

 

[izeman]

Or put the axle end (of the side that is still screwed on) on a concrete surface, then grip the tire and rim and push down with your weight on that. This should push open the cover that is not screwed on, and pop out the stator.

i didn't mention that method as you can hurt yourself quite easily do this. if you've done it several times before it's ok to do, but parts stick together quite well, and you may need a lot of pressure to seperate it. i prefer the 3 arm puller. they can be purchased for <20 so it's a good investment.

 

[MadRhino]

Pulling the stator out of the magnets is pretty safe, but putting it back in can cut your fingers badly. Follow the procedure, use a puller and make it safe. I drill a hole the size of the axle in a stool and put the nut under, making it comfortable to work.