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hub generator

pattydude1001

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Jan 31, 2026
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on da sphere
would it be possible to convert a hub motor to a generator then run it to a mid drive motor lets say one of those 1000 watt big hub motors and then turn it into a generator and use it to power a mid drive motor instead of having a front and back wheel hub motor or am i insane i mean slap one of those gear box motors on the bottom bracket set up 2-3 chain rings on it send it back to a 11 speed for like 33 gears and the gear ratio and gear box motor should compensate for the resistatnce of the generator and boom a electric bicycle all you do is pedal to go its the idea that we are using the mechanical energy and with modern technology ampliying it to a almost prepetual limit?? am i crazy becuase this seems like its a pretty simple idea.
 
Yes, this is a very simple idea. You are not accounting for the many detriments you do not know about or think about. Sorry.
  • Bearings take away a small amount of power due to the friction we can't entirely eliminate.
  • Chains take away a small amount of energy due to the friction we can't entirely eliminate.
  • There are other parasitic avenues which expend energy that does not contribute to forward motion, even if you don't know about them and I don't list them all.
Everything you add - more chain, more gears, more bearings, more magnet cogging, more back-EMF from the electric motor - ALL of it adds to more loss compared to a machine that does not have them. That is, compared to the basic, manually pedaled bicycle.

Did you know that an electric motor also acts like a generator? I did not write that an electric motor can instead be used as a generator - I wrote that as it is being powered as a motor it is also acting as a generator AT THE SAME TIME - this is back-EMF and it is a resistance that produces energy as heat which means a loss of the energy that is put into the motor which slows the motor. A motor that has no load on it's shaft does not continue speeding up and speeding up - it reaches an equilibrium and does not spin faster. This means that the energy put in is balanced by the energy leaving - even though there is no load in the sense that we are thinking of. The energy leaving is due to bearing losses, air friction (a wind is produced), and back-EMF producing heat. An imbalance in the motor will produce energy loss as the vibration flexes whatever the motor is mounted on, resulting in, you guessed it, heat.

ALL of this energy comes from your body in your proposed approach. And it's ALWAYS more energy than without the extra bits you are suggesting, so you will ALWAYS need to put in more energy than if you just ride a bicycle without the extra generators, etc.

Everything added brings its own small-or-large loss to add to the original, simple bicycle.

The stored energy of a battery can be used to overcome this and more, resulting in a vehicle which requires lees human power to travel. A solar panel can provide the excess energy when the sun shines.

Feel free to do your experiments. You'll learn that the actual drawbacks are real and you'll learn what can be done, as opposed to what the mind can conceive when it does not know what the situation actually is. If you succeed, we'll all be happy, so make it happen.
 
Purchase yourself a 3 phase bridge Rectifier 50amp, hook the 3 phase wires from your electric hub to your Rectifier, now take an LED light with 6 or more LEDs and connect those wires to the rectifier, spin the wheel, watch the glow, feel the resistance, be the generator
 
I remember as a kid having one of those flip-over headlight generators that took power from the rotating tire. We only used them going down hills because the drag was palpable.

BICYCLE LIGHT GENERATOR.jpg
 
...more back-EMF from the electric motor - ALL of it adds to more loss compared to a machine that does not have them.
Ignoring wind loading, do you think there would be appreciable battery power savings by running a motor at say 70% or 50% max speed as apposed to pinning the throttle in a lower gear? Or would the back emf be negligible so to speak. I like to maintain a 22~25 km/h pace along the flats and I can achieve that either way, gearing down and running the motor faster or gearing up and slower.
 
I can achieve that either way, gearing down and running the motor faster or gearing up and slower.
I don't have the knowledge to answer this directly, but I have a thought you can try. Below is a comparison of two motors & gearings in the Grin motor simulator. I have made no attempt to put in parameters that address your question - I just happened to have this from some questions I was pursuing.

Vary the gearings and the motor speed windings and the power &tc to approximate the differences you are asking about and have a look at what the outcome seems to be. For the same battery, the distances tell something, and the amperes used and the efficiency, etc. If there is a large difference, then you may be on to something.

Comparison of some motors
 
Won't work, pattydude, Takes more energy to spin your front wheel generator than it will produce. This is basic to the Laws of Thermodynamics.

If you push your bike to the top of the hill and coast down, sure you get power, You forgot how hard it was to push the bike up, It's like the famous bird. It's not free. It's powered by water evaporating off his beak.

 
An easy way to understand what Doc said, would be to hook a 3 phase bridge rectifier to your motors 3 phase wires and attach a 6 LED light to the rectifier pos. and neg. then hand spin your motor while watching the light get brighter with resistant cog
 
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