hello, i own a e moped like a vespa but like its electric it not really a vespa its a tailg but you get the point anyways i want to go faster it tops out at 45mph or 75kmh and i was thinking of buying a makerbase 75100 vesc i am planning to hit 60mph and idk if it will let me hit that number it has a 72v 32ah battery and a big rear hub motor so i was wondering if the 75100 actually means the 7500 watts or is it just a scame the controller im planning on is the mks 75100 so idk f it will get me to that speed so i was wondering if anyone could help because it is pretty expensive in my currency and i dont want to waste my money on something that wont do what i need
makerbase 75100 vescs
- Thread starter moazzz
- Start date
You want a way bigger VESC than that to drive a motorcycle.. 60mph is usually consuming around 8kw continuous on a bicycle, probably more on a motorcycle chassis..
8kw / 72v = 111A battery, ~250A phase <-- this is the rating you're looking for because ESCs are rated on phase current, not battery current ( assume this is the case unless told otherwise )
In RC motor controller terms, you probably want a 300-400A rated controller because since we're moving a lot slower than some 200mph RC car, we're getting way less air over the unit, so you need to kind of derate RC controllers for 1:1 model vehicles
Your best bet might be a motorcycle specific controller instead
What battery cells is your 32ah battery made up of? i'm thinking you might need more battery versus stock to get more fast, unless the pack that came with the bike has exceptionally low IR cells, aka higher C rate than the usual 1-2C continuous..
8kw / 72v = 111A battery, ~250A phase <-- this is the rating you're looking for because ESCs are rated on phase current, not battery current ( assume this is the case unless told otherwise )
In RC motor controller terms, you probably want a 300-400A rated controller because since we're moving a lot slower than some 200mph RC car, we're getting way less air over the unit, so you need to kind of derate RC controllers for 1:1 model vehicles
Your best bet might be a motorcycle specific controller instead
What battery cells is your 32ah battery made up of? i'm thinking you might need more battery versus stock to get more fast, unless the pack that came with the bike has exceptionally low IR cells, aka higher C rate than the usual 1-2C continuous..
ok so first of all yeah that 250a is out of my budget really second of all my battery is lead acid its like 6 12v 32ah batteries connected in series so the discharge isnt that well off but if a vesc is not possible what can i do instead ik a mototrcycle specific controller but my oly trusted source is sabvoton and im looking at the mz7280 but my problem is that shipping rates are hella expensive like to buy it is 72 usd and for shipping is 90 usd which equates to almost 8.5k egp and i really only have 3.2k egp saved up so im really in a big dilemma here i also cant fin anyone who reviewed the mz7280 so i dont even know how good it isYou want a way bigger VESC than that to drive a motorcycle.. 60mph is usually consuming around 8kw continuous on a bicycle, probably more on a motorcycle chassis..
8kw / 72v = 111A battery, ~250A phase <-- this is the rating you're looking for because ESCs are rated on phase current, not battery current ( assume this is the case unless told otherwise )
In RC motor controller terms, you probably want a 300-400A rated controller because since we're moving a lot slower than some 200mph RC car, we're getting way less air over the unit, so you need to kind of derate RC controllers for 1:1 model vehicles
Your best bet might be a motorcycle specific controller instead
What battery cells is your 32ah battery made up of? i'm thinking you might need more battery versus stock to get more fast, unless the pack that came with the bike has exceptionally low IR cells, aka higher C rate than the usual 1-2C continuous.
What is the no load speed with the wheel elevated off the ground? If your motor Kv isn't high enough, you may end up in the same place when it comes to speed.
it is supposedly "limited" to 60kmh even though gps results show 75kmh but it doesnt show anything on the stock screen above 60
no the screen only shows battery percentage and not even i a iformative way and the power is not shown and it shows speed and trip but nothing else really it also like it hits 60 on the speedo but then it gives a little more then stops providing anya cceleratio and keeps that speed btw i saw someone who like got a 1.5kw no name brand controller and shunted it and ran it through a power meter and it showed like 80a at 72v is that possible or not also
A shunt mod will give you more current and therefore power, but not necessarily speed, but you could also fry your controller if you go beyond what the controller's components (mainly the FETs) can handle. Without a way to measure the output, you'll be modding it blindly.
However, if you know for sure you're going to replace the controller anyway, you could try it and see if it actually provided more speed. You may find that you need to run a higher voltage to get the speed you want though. If you go that route, I'd do a very mild shunt mod first to see if the speed changes at all, and if not, at least you could continue using the existing controller without too much worry about frying it.
no no the controller in it already has no shunts and it is getting replaced but i want a more high power alternative to it now because im usually going a 15km distance everyday and some of that is a fast road and i need some extra power even if 90kmh
If its a 72v SLA system, its full charge should be around 84v. If thats the setup with the on-hand controller, it likely has 100v Caps and FETs. That suggests you hypothetically might be able to raise the voltage to get a bit more power without toasting the components.... maybe. If a 6v SLA of matched capacity to the other 12v SLA modules was added in series, could provide a bit more watts. That would sum to ~something like 92v max charge... which presents other problems like available (safe rated) chargers. This is, more a question for everyone than a recommendation for the OP, since I have never pursued such a hypothetical.
The benefits of this suggestion are probably outweighed by what others suggest, a updated controller might be a more help action.
The benefits of this suggestion are probably outweighed by what others suggest, a updated controller might be a more help action.
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it has 100v caps indeed but i doubt increasing batteries will work i i just want to stick to a updated controller
Virtually all controllers need shunts to provide the MCU with feedback on the current in order for the controller not to burn itself up. Not all look like the small metal wires on the circuit board, but could be in the form of resistors. If you open the controller, you could easily do a visual check.
Remember that power doesn't influence speed directly. It only influences speed when there is wind resistance that needs power to overcome, but power alone will never increase speed above the motors design speed or Kv rating.
In the example below, all things are equal between system A and B, except B has a controller that supplies double the current. System A has 5.6kW available, and system B has 11.2kW available, yet both max out at the same speed, 45.6 mph. You can raise the current all you want, and the speed remains the same. System B however, has huge gain in torque, so accelerating to 45.6mph will be much quicker; the same for climbing speeds.
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
ebikes.ca
PS. The other way you could get more speed with your current voltage level is to buy a controller that support field weakening. That may get you another 10% or so top speed, but it's not an efficient way of obtaining it, since the controller needs to dump a lot more energy to overcome the back EMF, so only really good if you need the shorter burst of speed on ocassion.
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if you had a wattmeter capable of showing how much amps you consume, what the voltage drop looks like, we could determine how much additional power your lead acids could output.
It's probably not enough for pulling ~2x the amps to handle the higher speed, but it will at least guide what's possible with your existing setup.
It's probably not enough for pulling ~2x the amps to handle the higher speed, but it will at least guide what's possible with your existing setup.
ok so i know there should be shunts but the problem is i cant find them because its not a genric controller its a controller from the company and i cant find any datasheets or specification for it on the internet but on what your saying it means that even if i put in a sabvoton mz7280 i still could probably have ths ame top speed?Virtually all controllers need shunts to provide the MCU with feedback on the current in order for the controller not to burn itself up. Not all look like the small metal wires on the circuit board, but could be in the form of resistors. If you open the controller, you could easily do a visual check.
Remember that power doesn't influence speed directly. It only influences speed when there is wind resistance that needs power to overcome, but power alone will never increase speed above the motors design speed or Kv rating.
In the example below, all things are equal between system A and B, except B has a controller that supplies double the current. System A has 5.6kW available, and system B has 11.2kW available, yet both max out at the same speed, 45.6 mph. You can raise the current all you want, and the speed remains the same. System B however, has huge gain in torque, so accelerating to 45.6mph will be much quicker; the same for climbing speeds.
View attachment 366036Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
PS. The other way you could get more speed with your current voltage level is to buy a controller that support field weakening. That may get you another 10% or so top speed, but it's not an efficient way of obtaining it, since the controller needs to dump a lot more energy to overcome the back EMF, so only really good if you need the shorter burst of speed on ocassion.
i mean if i knew where i can mount a power meter for it thatd be good but i already made this little thing that measures the battery voltage for mor precise battery percentage reading and also currently the bike is not with me due to the stockcontroller burned a cpacitor and now i need a new controller
Likely yes. I'm assuming that your controller isn't limiting speed, since usually speed limits in a controller are set due to legal reasons, and 60kmh would be a very odd limit to impose, unless that's a requirement of the laws where you live. It's possible that your display can only register speeds up to 60kmh.
Most Sabvoton controllers are FOC and support field/flux weakening, so if that model does, you'll be able to coax more speed out of your bike.
System A is my bike, and I have a Sabvoton clone of the ML7280. I've gone up 53mph on a full charge, but my brain told me it was too stupid to ride that fast on a bicycle, so I didn't really want to see what it topped out at. The watts shoot up off the the chart though, so I never use it.
ML7280|SM & ML Models
Sabvoton controller ML7280 80A is cheap sine wave programmable design for BLDC hall sensor motor, programmable sine wave controller,cheap sine wave controller,electric scooter controller,hall sensor motor controller
mqcontroller.com
wait one second which sabvoton website do i order from because theres the other mcqon website this one MQCON Sabvoton Electric Motorcycle Controller Model MZ7280 this is the one i was asking about
That was a good price. I almost bought it since it supports regen, but the shipping cost showed up on the last screen and I hit cancel. If you find one at a good price including shipping, please post the link.
yeah the shipping is a problem almost 90 usd for shipping to my country i think i saw sum n aliexpress but same sameThat was a good price. I almost bought it since it supports regen, but the shipping cost showed up on the last screen and I hit cancel. If you find one at a good price including shipping, please post the link.
should a 75200 work fine or is that to little im sorry im new to vescs so i dont have that much infoYou want a way bigger VESC than that to drive a motorcycle.. 60mph is usually consuming around 8kw continuous on a bicycle, probably more on a motorcycle chassis..
8kw / 72v = 111A battery, ~250A phase <-- this is the rating you're looking for because ESCs are rated on phase current, not battery current ( assume this is the case unless told otherwise )
In RC motor controller terms, you probably want a 300-400A rated controller because since we're moving a lot slower than some 200mph RC car, we're getting way less air over the unit, so you need to kind of derate RC controllers for 1:1 model vehicles
Your best bet might be a motorcycle specific controller instead
What battery cells is your 32ah battery made up of? i'm thinking you might need more battery versus stock to get more fast, unless the pack that came with the bike has exceptionally low IR cells, aka higher C rate than the usual 1-2C continuous..
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