My new build.

02jze

1 kW
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
348
Location
Brisbane, Australia
I wanted to build another bike as cheap as possible to either sell or give to a friend.
Starting with a $10 malvern star from ebay
1276751046.jpg

I want to go the same set up as my current bike with the flip flop hub style and currie motor.
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First question is Does any body know a good source for cheap flip flop hubs like this (if thats what they are even called ?)
When i convert my current ride to rc packs ill mount 36v worth of slas to this new one.
Its not going to be anything extream ofcourse but its simple and cheap to get someone else addicted to ebike. Have to start somewhere,....
 
That is not a flip flop hub. Flip flop hubs have right hand threads on both sides. Your hub has left hand threads on the left and right hand threads on the right. You need a USPD hub from EVDeals.
Bubba
 
As Bubba says........

They're sometimes referred to as "Bi-Drive" hubs. That's what I usually call them, to make the distinction.
http://www.bmxinternational.com.au/Script/MCH/SHOPProductS.asp?ObjectID=AD7D1D3D-2135-418F-A8CC-AA63B5510080
 
if you were in North America i'd say just buy a complete rear wheel assembly from Schwinn/Currie I-Zip (aka Dorel Canada) as spare parts for $57CAD +shipping. that includes the hub laced into a 26" rim and both of the freewheels. the Schwinn brand is now owned by a Canadian company. they push them heavily in these parts.

funny thing i just ordered one of these wheels yesterday to fix a neighbors bike. total cost including shipping came to $70.46CAD. but shipping to the UK would be a bitch.

try Currie's UK dealer:

Moore Large
Contact: Alistair Smith
p. 01332 274242
alistair.smith@moorelarge.co.uk
or email warranty@moorelarge.co.uk

they might be able to help.

rick
 
oops, my bad. i confused one on the replies with the thread start.

shipping would be much worse to AUS. but you could try the AUS distributor.

Hunter Leisure Pty Ltd.
94 Kielor Park Drive
Tullamarine Vic 3043
Australia
p. 800.632.792
spares@hunterleisure.com.au

sorry about that.

rick
 
As hubs go, $50 usd is not much money. You could do what the ICE boys do and bolt the sprocket directly to the spokes. That is the cheapest way I know to do it.

Bubba
 
i see that english has become an optional language. or is it just the comprehension?

it was CANADIAN DOLLARS not American and INCLUDES BOTH FREEWHEELS. since the sprockets are kinda part of the freewheels...that would mean that they come with the deal. the rim and spokes are included here as well.

the motor side sprocket has 20 teeth and uses regular bike chain. makes for an easy match to the usual MY1018Z motor which normally comes with either a 9 or 11 tooth bike chain sprocket.

rick
 
Aren't the flip/flop BMX hubs for flipping the wheel over to run the sprocket that was on the other side for a gearing change. If so, then you have normal threads on both sides. The force of left side drive will be to unscrew the freewheel. I made one of these myself quite easily by cutting the left side off of two steel hubs, inserting a steel tube inside to reinforce my poor welding skills, and welding the 2 threaded halves together. Total cost was about $5 for the hub. To prevent it from unscrewing, I cleaned all the grease/oil off of the threads and the threads of the freewheel, applied epoxy to the threads and screwed it on. I ran a 750W motor with that rig with no issue. The drawback is that the freewheel is on there permanently, so be sure to get the direction right. The only difficulty was screwing it on, because you can't just use the sprocket to spin it on like on the right side, because it freewheels in the direction it screws on, and the back side of the freewheel faces out with often no place for a tool. Make sure you have that figured out before applying epoxy. The nice thing is that when you double checking it first, it's the easiest freewheel ever to get off. :mrgreen:

John
 
John in CR said:
Aren't the flip/flop BMX hubs for flipping the wheel over to run the sprocket that was on the other side for a gearing change. If so, then you have normal threads on both sides. The force of left side drive will be to unscrew the freewheel. I made one of these myself quite easily by cutting the left side off of two steel hubs, inserting a steel tube inside to reinforce my poor welding skills, and welding the 2 threaded halves together. Total cost was about $5 for the hub. To prevent it from unscrewing, I cleaned all the grease/oil off of the threads and the threads of the freewheel, applied epoxy to the threads and screwed it on. I ran a 750W motor with that rig with no issue. The drawback is that the freewheel is on there permanently, so be sure to get the direction right. The only difficulty was screwing it on, because you can't just use the sprocket to spin it on like on the right side, because it freewheels in the direction it screws on, and the back side of the freewheel faces out with often no place for a tool. Make sure you have that figured out before applying epoxy. The nice thing is that when you double checking it first, it's the easiest freewheel ever to get off. :mrgreen:

John

Yup. but there are also what are called DUAL DRIVE hubs. these are used in some tandem builds. one side has LHS or SOUTH PAW threads. in use the Captain would drive the normal or right side of the wheel and the stroker would drive the left side. this was more common on the older tandems before the "STROKER" freewheeling cranks were devised.

you can get dual drive units with both sides 1.375 inch imperial sizes, with the right side being imperial and the left side being M30 X 1 metric or with both sides metric. but all of these have left hand threads on the left side. but they can be tought to find.

rick
 
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