Need a Trek RIDE+ R320 battery (BionX system)

[Xuan Gao]

Hello everyone,

I’m looking for a Trek RIDE+ R320 battery (BionX system).

I have a Trek RIDE+ R320 bike, and its battery life has been getting worse and worse lately. So, following advice from the forum, I decided to upgrade the bike by connecting a new and an old battery in parallel. But failed.

ChatGPT told me I could try refurbishing the old battery, but to be honest, that’s too expensive—especially for a bike that’s already 15 years old.

Or, if you have a scrapped RIDE+ R320 bike, would you be willing to sell me its original battery?

The original battery is just like this:

 

[E-HP]

Hello everyone,

I’m looking for a Trek RIDE+ Pro controller.

I have a Trek RIDE+ C320 bike, and its battery life has been getting worse and worse lately. So, following advice from the forum, I decided to upgrade the bike by connecting a new and an old battery in parallel. But I failed, and for some unknow reason, the bike’s controller won’t light up anymore.

The original battery charges just fine, and when I press and hold the controller to start the system, the headlight turns on, but the controller itself remains off. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Or, if you have a scrapped RIDE+ C320 bike, would you be willing to lend or sell me the controller?

The original controller is just like this:

View attachment 389916

That’s a display, not a controller. Can you describe what you did with your batteries and specifically how you connected them?

 

[lnanek]

That's a Bionx bike, I think. The controller is in his motor hub. So the external display is the only component he'd have besides a battery and motor hub. They did have optional brake lever sensors and a thumb throttle too.

The only places left to get Bionx equipment are eBay and BX Legacy , AFAIK.

Trying to add a parallel battery is more likely to have destroyed the BMS than the display, though. The display only takes a Hirose connector with various low signaling voltages IIRC. The BMS is quite odd, though. The charge port for the 48V battery pack only takes 26V, for example. The pin outs are very strange too. The center pin for that charger is NC, for example and there are two outer rings. Meanwhile the D-Sub connector has a positive voltage shell instead of ground, so it's easy to fry something.

You can't even use a standard battery blender box to safely add a battery with a different state of charge because they are negative switched, but the CANbus running between all the components requires a common ground.

 

[Xuan Gao]

That’s a display, not a controller. Can you describe what you did with your batteries and specifically how you connected them?

I just follow this:

Adding second battery to BionX system.

Hi guys. Few weeks ago I bought a used bike Trek T700+ 250W BionX motor and battery works only for 30km with 3 of 4 assist level. Honestly, I'm very disappointed with this range but the bike itself is in very good condition. The original battery is a 48V Trek/BionX R320 RIDE+ G2 (6.6Ah 320Wh...

endless-sphere.com

But to be honest, I didn't see any noticeable improvement, so I gave up trying this. Now I just want an original BionX R320 battery as a replacement.

 

[Xuan Gao]

That's a Bionx bike, I think. The controller is in his motor hub. So the external display is the only component he'd have besides a battery and motor hub. They did have optional brake lever sensors and a thumb throttle too.

The only places left to get Bionx equipment are eBay and BX Legacy , AFAIK.

Trying to add a parallel battery is more likely to have destroyed the BMS than the display, though. The display only takes a Hirose connector with various low signaling voltages IIRC. The BMS is quite odd, though. The charge port for the 48V battery pack only takes 26V, for example. The pin outs are very strange too. The center pin for that charger is NC, for example and there are two outer rings. Meanwhile the D-Sub connector has a positive voltage shell instead of ground, so it's easy to fry something.

You can't even use a standard battery blender box to safely add a battery with a different state of charge because they are negative switched, but the CANbus running between all the components requires a common ground.

Thanks, Inanek.
Follow your suggestion, I have just reconnected all the wires, and to my surprise, it’s now working！

But for now, the original used battery still only supports 30–50 km of electric-assist riding. I’m currently trying to find a secondhand BionX R320 battery as a replacement.

 

[lnanek]

This German forum has a lot of threads on how to make a working battery extender for Bionx systems:

BionX

Fertig-Pedelecs, die mit dem BionX-Antrieb ausgestattet sind.

www.pedelecforum.de

It's usually spliced in between the original battery and motor, but still shares the negative wire to preserve the common ground.