New Build crystalyte 4080 / 3580 down hill bike UK

Today i now have the new forks painted and the battery brackets sorted so on go the forks ready to mount my batterys tomorrow , also fitted the rear wheel in with triple torq arms, including the rear brake caliper bracket , looks like i will have to move the controller to the bottom frame rail , looks to close to the rear wheel , att photos :D
 

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tricky43 said:
Hi Topfuel

Looks like we're building similar bikes in the UK (although you're a bit further along than me.

What are the new forks?

Can you post some more pics of your controller mounting and cabling

What are you doing for a drivetrain?

more pics please.

Cheers........ Tricky
hi tricky where are you in the uk ? ,thanks for your comments , as you may of just read i think i have to move the controller so when i sort it i will take some pictures , the front forks are Zoom which i got on Gumtree , but i have some new decals in purple to match the rest of my bike but they say Rockshock :oops: , which parts of the drive chain did you wish to know about , i must say nothing to fancy as i think with e bikes its not so critical , so i just have a strong setup
stephen, going to check your build now :D
 
Green and white coloring together is suprisingly awesome! Got a pic of your torque arm? Looks great.

Rick
 
Rix said:
Green and white coloring together is suprisingly awesome! Got a pic of your torque arm? Looks great.

Rick
thank you for your comment , i bought the bike already Green powder coat so not my choice of coloure but i am pleased with the way it now looks :D , torq arms are now all bolted in which you can see on the photos above on the disc brake side there are 2 which sandwich the frame with the caliper mount , and one on the inside of the frame where the freewheel is , i may try and take some closer pictures
 
I saw the on pic of the disk side torque arm block. It looks tough enough for what you got going on there for sure. Your build is looking real clean too. Is your battery bracket going to be enclosed around the battery pack? Some guys are using the super strong pelican cases mounted up front like you are doing to store lipos. I don't think your handeling will affected much. You may need to set the preload on your forks a click or two stiffer for the battery weight. Once upon a time, I had a dirt bike with a chainsaw rack and Acerbis 1.5 gallon gas tank mounted on the front number plate posts and fender braket on the tripple clamp. I used it for clearing trails. The weight increase was noticable but not bad. Would I raced enduro with that setup, not if I didn't have too. I think part of the reason steering felt a little sluggish was the chainsaw stuck out fairly far forward of the fork tubes. If the saw mount had hugged the fork tubes, there would have been less fulcrum effect and the steering would have felt sharper. But the Acerbis tank wouldnt allow me to do that. I mention this because I think your ride's handeling with this set up will be more than fine provided that your battery is super heavy and sticking way out over the front wheel.

Rick
 
I am really liking how your build is coming along. Thats a battery for sure. Curiouse, who makes it and whats the max continues C rate is for it?

Rick
 
Rix said:
I am really liking how your build is coming along. Thats a battery for sure. Curiouse, who makes it and whats the max continues C rate is for it?

Rick
Battery came from kenny at crystalyte as a complete kit , not sure of complete spec of battery , it came with key switch charging port and charger i just made the alloy box to go inside the bag so i could mount it on the front
 
Thats interesting about no specs coming with the battery. Be that as it may, your battery mounted on the front looks great. Minus wiring, you build looks almost complete :eek: .

Rick
 
Nice bike! I think your rear tire will hit the controller though... better check it with no air in the shock!
 
Whiplash said:
Nice bike! I think your rear tire will hit the controller though... better check it with no air in the shock!
Sorry to say I think so to. Lots of other possies for it though . Under down tube, or top tube. Well that's actually about it unless you go for a wack Behind the seat post rack. (I don't like 'em)
 
pendragon8000 said:
Whiplash said:
Nice bike! I think your rear tire will hit the controller though... better check it with no air in the shock!
Sorry to say I think so to. Lots of other possies for it though . Under down tube, or top tube. Well that's actually about it unless you go for a wack Behind the seat post rack. (I don't like 'em)
thank you for your comment and if you look on page 2 of this trend i had already seen this problem so it will be going on the bottom frame rail , but i have been really bad of xmas and still are , so soon as i am better i will be back on the case
 
My bike is now finished (part 1 ) of my build just have to fine tune the Hornet , been out today for a short ride (rain) and had a small problem after riding for a bout 1 mile as soon as i hit full throttle the bike just cut out ? so i switched all power off then turned the power back on , off we go again but as soon i i hit full throttle agin it cut out again , so , i didi the same again turn power off then back on and the bike runs again , so i came home on half throttle no problem . i have now been into all the setting on the APM and locked the setting. I had a quick go and its seems ok but i need to do a longer trip to be sure but the rain was to bad .
Here are some photos :lol:
 

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Top fuel,
Your build came out really really well. I like it. I hope you got the cut off issue sorted out. I am amazed how nice and clean your build came out.

Rick
 
so, now you have one more follower ;)
 
Wow, just finished hitting the submit button from the Phasor forum, and already you guys know what I said. Thats fast.
 
I'm sure the cutting out part is the LVC setting. 99% of the time when full throttle kills the power it's the low volt cut off. Try dropping the pack size or lowering the cut off point.

"Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) Setting – To set the low voltage cutoff, press and hold both the UP  and DOWN arrows until you see the word “current” flashing along with the speedometer display. Use the Power button to cycle from “current” to “voltage”, and again to “Low Voltage”. Use the UP  and DOWN arrows to adjust the parameters. The low voltage cutoff setting allows the rider to set the low voltage boundary at which the system will shut down. This setting makes possible the use of any battery chemistry, assuming that battery can provide the power necessary to run your system. The standard low voltage cutoff for SLA batteries is around 10.2V per 12v battery. Example: To set the LVC for a standard 48V SLA battery pack, simply multiply 10.2V x 4 (number of 12V batteries) = 40.8V (or 41V) for the LVC setting. NOTE: You MUST retrieve LVC information from your battery supplier if using a battery chemistry other than SLA."


Bike looks excellent!

Tom
 
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