New Build crystalyte 4080 / 3580 down hill bike UK

[pendragon8000]

There is another phenomenon I have experianced and thought it may be sag dropping below lvc on full throttle take off, so I tested on full charge and it still cut out... so what was it? Well with the same crystalyte you have as me it would go into throttle over voltage cut out on hard take off. So I set my throttle out Max (on the CA v 3) to .2v less and it was fixed. So it seems the comparitive voltages change enough in the controller to make it see the throttle as too high when under high load.
Good luck.

 

[topfuel]

thanks you all for your comments , i reset all the setting on the apm and have re charged the battery , i then went on a ride and all seems ok hit 40 mph as well with plenty
left and the bike feels great to ride , i am going to change the front sprocket as its a 42 t and i can only pedal to about 20 mph ish so going for a 48 t and see how that performs

 

[Rix]

Top Fuel, are those Headway Cells your battery pack is made up of? I counted 10x10 for a hundred cylindrical cells. Let me know if you can. If Lightpeed is correct and its LVC setting causing your cuttingout, we can fix that with simple math, unless some or your cells are bad. But if Pendragon is correct than some setting need to be change on your CAs advanced set up menu. If neither are correct, I don't have a clue then what i could be except maybe some spoiled cells. Wish I knew more about electronics.

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

Hi TopFuel, your build looks very good and professional. It is an old santa cruz frame, or ?
The idea to put the batteries at the top of the fork is something I think about now for my build. How about the handling with additional weight in that height ?

 

[topfuel]

Top Fuel, are those Headway Cells your battery pack is made up of? I counted 10x10 for a hundred cylindrical cells. Let me know if you can. If Lightpeed is correct and its LVC setting causing your cuttingout, we can fix that with simple math, unless some or your cells are bad. But if Pendragon is correct than some setting need to be change on your CAs advanced set up menu. If neither are correct, I don't have a clue then what i could be except maybe some spoiled cells. Wish I knew more about electronics.

Rick

The bike is running well now i have reset lvc , and i have emailed kenny for the full spec of the battery but he is very slow to reply to emailes unless you are buying somethink
but if he replys i will add the spec here

 

[topfuel]

Hi TopFuel, your build looks very good and professional. It is an old santa cruz frame, or ?
The idea to put the batteries at the top of the fork is something I think about now for my build. How about the handling with additional weight in that height ?

The frame is a bit of a mystery i was told it was a early ridgeback but i can not find one that looks like this one , my local bike shop are not sure either they said is was not a santa cruz , or a marin , i am taking the bike down to the shop for them to have a good look at it . the frame had been powder coated when i bought it . i have seen some orange frames that look very close to it ?
Putting the battery at the top of the forks for me was the best idea as i did not want all the wight on the rear as i have rode a bike before like this and did not like it at all ,
i think it keeps the bike looking like a bike , which i like, regarding the handling at very low speed (walking pace) you can feel the weight but as soon as you are going 5 mph plus the steering feels very positive and i am very pleased with the handling of the bike and would recommend fitting it to the the front
thank you for your interest

 

[dh-paule]

one more question... whats your opinion, 5speed are enough ?

 

[dh-paule]

today the endless rain of the last 2weeks stopped and I did a test ride with 2x1.5kg of water at the front...



as you described, its a little different at low speed but at higher speed its ok.. in combination with a hubmotor at the rear the bike should be balanced well

 

[topfuel]

Good idea to try the weight on the front like that , you will be able to fit the battery a bit lower on the forks , s
When do you start your build ? What motor are you going to use

 

[dh-paule]

Regarding the motor I think about Clyte or BMC

Since I need more torque at lower speed than highspeed the BMC V2T is my favorite. The powerful versions of Clyte need a 150mm dropout, and the frame has only 135mm.

But I know a geared motor has more parts that could be broken than a direct drive... The other option (late night idea) was a 2wd version with clyte. But then I need a hubmotor with 20mm axle adapter for the marzocchi monster fork

 

[full-throttle]

The original Phasor prototype had BMC /viewtopic.php?f=6&t=24253 You'd want to keep the unsprung weight to minimum, especially with Vanilla RC on the back - that thing has got less oil than a serve of fish and chips :lol: Just keep it below 1500W and don't spend too much time in the low RPM.

I'm a bit skeptical about the dual drive, although others have done it. Even met a guy who successfully mounted a hub to 20mm. He has to pull the fork apart every time to change a tyre

Nice bike BTW Good to see oldschool rigs!

 

[Rix]

Regarding the motor I think about Clyte or BMC

Since I need more torque at lower speed than highspeed the BMC V2T is my favorite. The powerful versions of Clyte need a 150mm dropout, and the frame has only 135mm.

But I know a geared motor has more parts that could be broken than a direct drive... The other option (late night idea) was a 2wd version with clyte. But then I need a hubmotor with 20mm axle adapter for the marzocchi monster fork

Paule, if you want to go the direct drive hub motor route and top speed isn't an issue, go with the Crystalyte HT3525. This motor will easly fit into 135MM dropouts with a 5 speed cog and would be a much more durable option than a BMC VT if your wanted to go north of 1500 watts. The HT3525 running 60 volts @ 50Amps will with a 16S Lipoly pack will achieve 80-90 or so pounds of torque with a 24" wheel and will last a long time with a little bit of mechanical sympathy. Figure a 27MPH top speed with that set up. The BMC V2 torque would be your best low watt option if you keep peak watts under 1700 and monitor the hub shell temp. Food for thought.

Rick

 

[dh-paule]

...
Nice bike BTW Good to see oldschool rigs!

The last 10years it was placed at the wall of our bedroom But now I think its a good base for my first ebike. Later with some more experience I will modify my actuall bike...
Lets create a FOES dh moto

 

[dh-paule]

Hi Rix, thanks
I will check and theoretical compare both motors at the ebike.ca/simulator

And I will start a new thread to not overtake topfuels nice build thread.

 

[Rix]

Top Fuel, any new ride reports?
Paule, look forward to following your build. Please post the link when you get started.

Rick

 

[topfuel]

Top Fuel, any new ride reports?
Paule, look forward to following your build. Please post the link when you get started.

Rick

paule add the link to your build on here as we all would like to follow your build

Well Rick got snow on the ground here with rain and more snow so i have to wait untill its clear , i have fitted a new 48t front sprocket but not tryed it yet , i will report on my next ride as soon as i can get out there

 

[pendragon8000]

sorry to high jack on dh paul's behalf...

Regarding the motor I think about Clyte or BMC

Since I need more torque at lower speed than highspeed the BMC V2T is my favorite. The powerful versions of Clyte need a 150mm dropout, and the frame has only 135mm.

But I know a geared motor has more parts that could be broken than a direct drive... The other option (late night idea) was a 2wd version with clyte. But then I need a hubmotor with 20mm axle adapter for the marzocchi monster fork

Paule, if you want to go the direct drive hub motor route and top speed isn't an issue, go with the Crystalyte HT3525. This motor will easly fit into 135MM dropouts with a 5 speed cog and would be a much more durable option than a BMC VT if your wanted to go north of 1500 watts. The HT3525 running 60 volts @ 50Amps will with a 16S Lipoly pack will achieve 80-90 or so pounds of torque with a 24" wheel and will last a long time with a little bit of mechanical sympathy. Figure a 27MPH top speed with that set up. The BMC V2 torque would be your best low watt option if you keep peak watts under 1700 and monitor the hub shell temp. Food for thought.

Rick

I have read somewhere on the net (just looked for the site/page and couldn't find it) that the ht3525 hasn't got more torque than the hs3540.... was playing with figures on the ebikes.ca simulator. and there is a video of comparison ill put up.. i think the thing is with the ht motor it will go slower more efficiently and not heat up going low speed with the same load (wind , incline etc) there may be a small noticable amount of torque off the line but other than that it is tuned for lower rpm. having said that, i am considering putting a ht3525 in a 26" dual mongoose and running 24S (100v) so i can use about 82% throttle and go 60kph (local speed limit) it will give more range than a hs3540 on 18s (75v) according to ebikes.ca simulator
[youtube]cgssLyUYlcQ[/youtube]

 

[dh-paule]

so i started a new thread regarding my build http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=46953&p=687641#p687618

 

[Rix]

Pendragon, I just watched the video, at 1:27 the race starts between the HT3525 and the HT3540. The 3525 jumped it off the line preety good. It took a while for the 3540 to pass but it did and eventually pulled away. Not sure where you read that the 3525 doesn't have any more torque than the 3450, in the video, off line the 3525 pulled ahead quick. If that would have been a 1/2 block long drag race instead of a 1/4 mile, the 3525 wouldn' have been passed by the 3540. Thanks for posting that video. You can get alot of info from the ebike.ca simulator but nothing beats real world testing.

Topfuel, how the new ride treating you?

Rick

 

[full-throttle]

Not sure where you read that the 3525 doesn't have any more torque than the 3450

Max torque of a given motor design is independent of the number of turns as long as copper fill is the same. Torque per amp is different.

 

[Rix]

Not sure where you read that the 3525 doesn't have any more torque than the 3450

Max torque of a given motor design is independent of the number of turns as long as copper fill is the same. Torque per amp is different.

Full T, if I understand you correctly, more copper = more torque? I know there is more to it but that is the gist?

Rick

 

[full-throttle]

more copper = more torque?

To an extent, everything else kept the same.

In case with H-series the 'T' version has 10 turns of 6 conductors and the 'S' version has 6 turns of 10 conductors. So the copper fill is the same. Those numbers might not be exact, but you get the idea.

 

[Rix]

more copper = more torque?

To an extent, everything else kept the same.

In case with H-series the 'T' version has 10 turns of 6 conductors and the 'S' version has 6 turns of 10 conductors. So the copper fill is the same. Those numbers might not be exact, but you get the idea.

Okay, thank for that bit of info, Its funny, I was bragging on another thread about how I learn something everyday on ES. This is an excellent example of that. Thank you again.

Rick

 

[Rix]

Topfuel, how is your build coming along. Just realized there hasn't been any recent info put out about your sweet ride. Same with DH Paule. I would like to hear about your guys' updates.

Rick

 

[topfuel]

Well not much been going on here as we had a lot of snow and very cold , i have an new camara with video i will try to up load now and as i get better with the video thing i will add more on the move :lol: