New build. Full carbon 29er weight weenie Super Commuter.

[Kepler]

Or it could be like that Ryobi advert where they have a production line of tools with one battery going along a conveyor and they snap the battery into a different tool each time until at the end there is a wooden motorbike. However this time the last thing they snap the battery into is Kepler friction drive on a wooden bike which then drives off. Sick (only makes sense if you have seen the advert :lol: )

 

[Rutiger]

[youtube]7NS9djdHJmQ[/youtube]

 

[Kepler]

That's the one. :lol: Thanks for that.

 

[Rutiger]

That's the one. :lol: Thanks for that.

You actually made it sound much cooler than it was.

 

[Hyena]

That was the add I had in mind when I suggested it! :lol:

Also makita already have an electric bike powered by their tool packs. One of my mates works in a tool shop and said the makita rep came in one day saying how great the bike was etc. Needless to say my mate, who's first ride on an ebike was on my fighter wasn't impressed with the little bafang on 18v. haha

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-18V-Lithium-Cordless-Bike-Combo-Kit-BBY180-/320735475813

 

[speedmd]

I had more of something like a 3220 powered stealth / dogatti type bike pictured, riding away on one wheel with the rider leaning slightly forward to hold it down some! They most likely would not like the look of needing a bunch of their packs together to accomplish it.

 

[Kepler]

Had a productive weekend with the bike. Managed to get the friction drive built and fitted to the bike. Because i am using a Schlumpf bottom bracket, I needed to make the fiction drive mounting brackets compatible with the Schlumpf mounting system which meant I needed to machine a 45 degree chamfer into the plates so the Schlumpf would sit properly.





The the main drive block has been machined from HDPE plastic which machines really well and has a low friction coefficient for the pivot shaft to rotate nice and smoothly.







So the drive is now fitted and the bike now free rides. Next weekend I will hit the electrics.

 

[Hyena]

Super stealthy work mate, it doesn't get any more low key than that!
Well deserving of the name on that chain ring guard :wink:

 

[pendragon8000]

Yeah second that and nice work to. does your system have a clutch or spring loaded engagment?

 

[full-throttle]

Very neat work Kepler!

Hope to see it in real life once it's running.

 

[Kepler]

Thanks guys. designing a mounting system that wouldn't compromise the carbon frame has been quite challenging. I think I have it worked out now though.

The next challenge is how to make the electrical install as stealthy as possible. Unfortunately there is no opportunity to run the wires inside carbon frame as its all sealed. Maybe I should have got the aluminium version of the frame so I could hide the wires away. Being hell bent on making this build as light as possible with a carbon frame might have been a bad move in some ways but seeing the whole point of this build was to be a weight weeny, I probably wouldn't be satisfied if I had gone with an aluminium frame.

Yeah second that and nice work to. does your system have a clutch or spring loaded engagment?

The motor engagement is through the torque kick of the motor on start up. This is well tested and proven method and although a litte fiddly to setup and adjust, works surprisingly well. The motor completely disengages when throttled off and pushes harder into the tire as more power is applied. There is spring in there that is used to make motor weight neutral. Drive distance from tire, pivot end stops, and spring tension are all adjustable.

 

[pendragon8000]

That sounds great, nice ingenuity. Are you going for battery bottle?

 

[anpate]

If you haven't decided on an ESC yet I highly recommend the 150A Hobbywing Xerun. I've been using it for a 40km daily commute since before Christmas and it hasn't missed a beat.

 

[Hyena]

The motor engagement is through the torque kick of the motor on start up.

I hadnt considered this aspect of your friction drives before. Is it quite sensitive or do you need to give the throttle a bit of a jolt ? If you ease the power on gently will the motor spin up without going back to make contact with the tyre ?
Yeah ok, guilty, I'm thinking of an application where you could rev it up then "drop the clutch"
Wheelieing carbon fibre road bike 4TW! :lol:

Re: the wiring, what about getting some thin carbon tube (as you'd probably be familar with from your RC helis and the like) and gluing to the back of the seat tube (or where ever). That way it keeps everything neat and fits in with the CF theme.

 

[Kepler]

That sounds great, nice ingenuity. Are you going for battery bottle?

Might use a battery bottle but more likely a seat bag so I can carry a bit more capacity.

 

[Kepler]

If you haven't decided on an ESC yet I highly recommend the 150A Hobbywing Xerun. I've been using it for a 40km daily commute since before Christmas and it hasn't missed a beat.

Thanks for that. I will check it out.

 

[Kepler]

The motor engagement is through the torque kick of the motor on start up.

I hadnt considered this aspect of your friction drives before. Is it quite sensitive or do you need to give the throttle a bit of a jolt ? If you ease the power on gently will the motor spin up without going back to make contact with the tyre ?
Yeah ok, guilty, I'm thinking of an application where you could rev it up then "drop the clutch"
Wheelieing carbon fibre road bike 4TW! :lol:

Bit more to these fiction drives then meets the eye. As much as people love to hate them, I say don't knock it until you have tried a good one. (not that you are knocking them )

Re: the wiring, what about getting some thin carbon tube (as you'd probably be familar with from your RC helis and the like) and gluing to the back of the seat tube (or where ever). That way it keeps everything neat and fits in with the CF theme

Nice idea. I will investigate that. 8)

 

[Hyena]

Yes I'm not knocking them at all, infact you'll recall I was keen to try one when I was in Melbounre recently. Next time eh ? I'll be able to ride the more refined model

How complacent are you with lipo ? This would make for the ultimate stealth lipo pack carrying

 

[full-throttle]

Wheelieing carbon fibre road bike 4TW! :lol:

Why not
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGdhq5A3mBI

I still remember the comment at the time "you aussies are animals, that's why you are so good"

 

[t3sla]

Thanks guys. designing a mounting system that wouldn't compromise the carbon frame has been quite challenging. I think I have it worked out now though.

The next challenge is how to make the electrical install as stealthy as possible. Unfortunately there is no opportunity to run the wires inside carbon frame as its all sealed.

How about you run wires in additional inside brake lines, glue on the guide mounts and use brake cables as if it were electrical conduit pipe.
I wonder what epoxy works well on carbon fiber :/

 

[Kepler]

Another good suggestion. Thanks for that t3sla.

I have been riding the bike this afternoon unassisted to get a feel for the bike and setup the gears. Bike rides really smoothly and is very light to pedal. Not dissimilar to a good quality road bike so mission accomplished there.

Handle bars are way to long and need to be trimmed down.

Any suggestions on some funky bars that might suit this bike? I thinking a cross between road bike bars and normal flat bars.

 

[full-throttle]

What is the diameter of the stem/bar mount? If it's not oversized I have many different bars you can try, incl north road style you are referring to.

 

[speedmd]

Thin two sided tapes with rubber based adhesives are are great for firm/ safe bonding of larger areas. You will want to to use some ridged backer (thin wood, cored plastic, aluminum)also to help distribute loads, and use ridged foams to insulate any high point loads. As long as you rely on a large area and maintain the tube shapes, the stress concentrations will be low.

You could also make your own stress skins with the ridged DIY expanding insulating spray can foam and thin aluminum (1- 3 mm thick) outer skins that can extend to mount the motor/shafts. I would heavily wax up the frame or wrap it with plastic wrap if you do not want to make it permanent. Folding / ribbing the skins would make them very ridged once filled.

Love the light weight rocket ship Idea. I dream to have a KW per KG machine. Even if you have to wear the battery pack, that would be amazing.

cheers

 

[Chalo]

Any suggestions on some funky bars that might suit this bike? I thinking a cross between road bike bars and normal flat bars.

On-One's "Mary" and "Midge" bars come to mind. (Alternately, the cheaper "Space" and "Gary" copies by Origin 8.)

Mary works with MTB controls, and mounts with rise or drop, according to your preference:

Midge is a flared drop bar that requires drop bar levers:

See also the Velo Orange Postino and Porteur bars:

 

[Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh]

yayyyyyy, chalo!
wootwoot!!!