speedmd
10 MW
Good post chalo. Thanks for the names / pictures.
Like the mary and postino bars! Know what to look for.
Like the mary and postino bars! Know what to look for.
New build. Full carbon 29er weight weenie Super Commuter.
- Thread starter Kepler
- Start date
full-throttle
1 MW
Kids take note - you get much better reception when you refrain from vomiting on someone's else thread
Did I say kids.. I meant trolls
Did I say kids.. I meant trolls
Kepler
10 MW
Thanks for the suggestions. Some good options to think about there. 8)
shorttyd
1 W
I didn't know different bars had different names.
Chalo
100 TW
shorttyd said:
Why wouldn't they? The ones I mentioned are commercial model names. But there are untrademarked generic names for different bar bends.
The most common bicycle handlebar bend in the world is called "North Road", after the North Road Cycling Club of London in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Because it's such an old pattern, it has lots of subtle variations among different examples.
These are Clubman bars, used mostly on motorcycles. Like North Road bars, they can be flipped over either way:
These are Maes bars, with round bends and straight sections up next to the stem:
These are Randonneur bars, with a little rise and flare:
And these are Pista bars, which are popular these days for fashion reasons, but which are only really good for grasping at the drops. They are traditionally used on track racing bikes:
These are bullhorn bars, used for time trial and pursuit bikes:
And these are stoker bars (for the rear rider of a tandem), which are similar but wider:
There are lots more, but I'm sure you get the idea.
t3sla
10 kW
Excellent bit of information
Will the handlebars themselves undergo any modification, say modding in a button or two, maybe a small character lcd screen.
Kepler
10 MW
Nothing too Stealthy there. I plan to run a CA3 and use all the fancy new features now available.
As mentioned before, this will be PAS RC setup. The plan is use a standard 3 speed switch with the middle position turning the PAS off completely and two levels of assist by toggling either left or right.
Also want the switchable levels of assist to be current based as opposed to speed based so the bike can go as quick as what the amps will allow. Probably have a 400W and 800W setting with 400W probably being the sort of peaks you would see with a 250W Aust legal system and 800W being good power level for a friction drive before they start eat tires.
I haven't seen this sort of combo done yet so its going to be interesting to see how it all comes together.
As mentioned before, this will be PAS RC setup. The plan is use a standard 3 speed switch with the middle position turning the PAS off completely and two levels of assist by toggling either left or right.
Also want the switchable levels of assist to be current based as opposed to speed based so the bike can go as quick as what the amps will allow. Probably have a 400W and 800W setting with 400W probably being the sort of peaks you would see with a 250W Aust legal system and 800W being good power level for a friction drive before they start eat tires.
I haven't seen this sort of combo done yet so its going to be interesting to see how it all comes together.
Kepler
10 MW
Had a chance to do a bit of 3D modeling of the drive to help figure out how I going to mount the ESC neatly in a nice compact package.
This is what I have come up with.
There still needs to be room within the ESC enclosure to fit wires and shunt for the CA which is the reason why I haven't made it any smaller.
The ESC enclosure will follow the bottom bar and has an EC5 plug press fitted into the top of it for quick battery disconnect.
This is what I have come up with.
There still needs to be room within the ESC enclosure to fit wires and shunt for the CA which is the reason why I haven't made it any smaller.
The ESC enclosure will follow the bottom bar and has an EC5 plug press fitted into the top of it for quick battery disconnect.
Attachments
pendragon8000
100 kW
Great pics. So the motor has a grip wheel on it.. nice.
bandaro
10 kW
Damn kepler, almost enough to make a fella want to try out a friction drive...
Few questions though, could it not be a lot neater if you had the power wires from the battery to the esc crossing the frame right down on the bb, assuming you are having them mounted in the triangle/back pack that is. Having the wires wrap around the tube further up could make them stand out a bit. It looks really nice and clean, is the whole package from sheetmetal aluminium? And lastly, is there be any problems with clearance of the connection of the bb bracket to the frame, as in where the welds would be if it was a steel frame, or have you done something to avoid this?
Loving the build, will be good to know final weights.
Few questions though, could it not be a lot neater if you had the power wires from the battery to the esc crossing the frame right down on the bb, assuming you are having them mounted in the triangle/back pack that is. Having the wires wrap around the tube further up could make them stand out a bit. It looks really nice and clean, is the whole package from sheetmetal aluminium? And lastly, is there be any problems with clearance of the connection of the bb bracket to the frame, as in where the welds would be if it was a steel frame, or have you done something to avoid this?
Loving the build, will be good to know final weights.
Kepler
10 MW
Thanks for the feedback bandaro. I think I will most likely use a handlebar bag so the power cable would run underneath the bottom tube. Phase cables will go through the mounting blocks and hopefully hide away nicely.
The 3D render is drawn with aluminium panels but I have now changed this to be machined from a solid plastic block. This works quite well as its very quick and easy to machine plus I can radius the edges to give a smother appearance.
No problems with the bottom bracket as it carbon and has no weld ridges to deal with. The blocks sit nice and flat on the bottom bracket the bottom tube. Also on this frame the bottom tube has a square profile.
The 3D render is drawn with aluminium panels but I have now changed this to be machined from a solid plastic block. This works quite well as its very quick and easy to machine plus I can radius the edges to give a smother appearance.
No problems with the bottom bracket as it carbon and has no weld ridges to deal with. The blocks sit nice and flat on the bottom bracket the bottom tube. Also on this frame the bottom tube has a square profile.
Kepler
10 MW
Got a few more things done today. Firstly managed get setup steer and handle bar length to my liking. Bike has nice relaxed riding position now and handles much better with the shorter steer length.
Machined up the speed controller housing out of solid piece of HDPE plastic and mounted it to the main block. Ideally I would like to machine the whole thing out of one block rather then screwing the two blocks together. I think this would be a neater solution. The plastic is quick and easy to machine and not to expensive to buy. I piece big enough to do the whole drive would cost about $30.
Machined up the speed controller housing out of solid piece of HDPE plastic and mounted it to the main block. Ideally I would like to machine the whole thing out of one block rather then screwing the two blocks together. I think this would be a neater solution. The plastic is quick and easy to machine and not to expensive to buy. I piece big enough to do the whole drive would cost about $30.
Attachments
pendragon8000
100 kW
wow thats beautifull work. man your a pro hey!?
are you happy with the strength of the hdpe housing? i guess there wouldnt be much stress on it really and it will be forgiving of small impacts yeah?
are you happy with the strength of the hdpe housing? i guess there wouldnt be much stress on it really and it will be forgiving of small impacts yeah?
Kepler
10 MW
Thanks pd. The HDPE is amazing strong. It will certainly take more of a hit then the carbon frame that's for sure.
pendragon8000
100 kW
so how did you get the housing so neatly shaped; milled CNC?
Kepler
10 MW
Just hand milled on a on a cheap Chinese combo mill / lathe.
The rounded edges are done with a router bit. Cuts like butter through the HDPE.
The rounded edges are done with a router bit. Cuts like butter through the HDPE.
Thud
1 MW
This is a great build,
Just a reminder that long power leads to the controller will be taxing on the set up. (Bar mounted) You will always be safer running long leads to the motor keeping the controller close to the power source.
Something about all that inductance & ripple crap we fight with & work around with added capacitors.
Just a heads up if some problems arise.
Loving the stealth so far!
Just a reminder that long power leads to the controller will be taxing on the set up. (Bar mounted) You will always be safer running long leads to the motor keeping the controller close to the power source.
Something about all that inductance & ripple crap we fight with & work around with added capacitors.
Just a heads up if some problems arise.
Loving the stealth so far!
Kepler
10 MW
Thanks Thud.
Good point on the long battery cables. I have used the handlebar setup with traditional controllers where the long cabling isn't such an issue. RC of course is a different situation. Might re consider that battery position.
Good point on the long battery cables. I have used the handlebar setup with traditional controllers where the long cabling isn't such an issue. RC of course is a different situation. Might re consider that battery position.
pendragon8000
100 kW
yeah Kepler , you could easily add a couple biger capacitors in there, or upgrade the stock ones? but with only 800watts being pulled I dont think it would be that much of an issue, whats the power rating on the rc controller anyway?Thud said:
Kepler
10 MW
Took the bike out for an unassisted shakedown with my Lycra mates this morning. Felt a bit strange sitting upright with all the other drop bar road bikes but the bike had no problems keeping pace. Pumped out a lazy 60kms with a coffee stop half way. Gearing felt good and the rapid fire shifter in combo with the Schlumpf was a good match.
Started on the electronics and battery system today. Converted the ESC to work with the CA3 by installing an inline shunt and associated signal and power wires.
Been re thinking the ESC and battery postion an have kind of gone back to plan "A"
I have now installed the ESC under the seat with the battery now in small seat bag. Managed to squeeze a 6S 5ah and a 6S 3.3ah pack it the bag. Good thing about this setup is that the battery cables end up nice and short. However, the phase cables now get the bad end of the deal.
So now with all the main components in place, its time figure out how to keep the wiring nicer and neat.
Started on the electronics and battery system today. Converted the ESC to work with the CA3 by installing an inline shunt and associated signal and power wires.
Been re thinking the ESC and battery postion an have kind of gone back to plan "A"
I have now installed the ESC under the seat with the battery now in small seat bag. Managed to squeeze a 6S 5ah and a 6S 3.3ah pack it the bag. Good thing about this setup is that the battery cables end up nice and short. However, the phase cables now get the bad end of the deal.
So now with all the main components in place, its time figure out how to keep the wiring nicer and neat.
pendragon8000
100 kW
thats prety awsome, nice stealth spot under the seat, hope nothing goes wrong or you might pop a cap(asitor) in your own ass lol.
what did your mates say about the bike/build? do you think you'll be accepted amoungst other lyrcra crew packing a motor?
what did your mates say about the bike/build? do you think you'll be accepted amoungst other lyrcra crew packing a motor?
adrian_sm
1 MW
Kepler said:
Simple just run the phase wires down inside the seat tube and seat post. I am sure the carbon fibre won't mind a couple of holes........ much.
speedmd
10 MW
Looks great!. What is the weight.
Yes, I would try to go straight through the top of the seat post and out the rear/ bottom of the bb shell with the wires. Great build.
Yes, I would try to go straight through the top of the seat post and out the rear/ bottom of the bb shell with the wires. Great build.
mat h physics
100 W
adrian_sm said:Kepler said:
Simple just run the phase wires down inside the seat tube and seat post. I am sure the carbon fibre won't mind a couple of holes........ much.
Carbon fiber will very much mind "a couple of holes", it would be like putting a crack in an egg. If it were DESIGNED w/ the holes there already it would work, as they would be re-enforced to prevent additional cracks. Drill a hole and cracks will start.
Ask a composite tech, it MIGHT can be done, but will require resin to be applied and you would still be taking a chance as the original resin has long since hardened.
speedmd
10 MW
IMO the center- bottom / rear of bb shells are way over built for the intended loads and should not be harmed much with a few small holes. The old classics were commonly mostly cut away with the initials/ logo of the maker.
As long as the area has a significant amounts of cross weave fiber, it will hold until the frame crinkles up in many other areas from a catastrophic incident. Hopefully never. Agree, you will want to clear nail polish the raw holes to prevent moisture jacking into the exposed fiber ends.
As long as the area has a significant amounts of cross weave fiber, it will hold until the frame crinkles up in many other areas from a catastrophic incident. Hopefully never. Agree, you will want to clear nail polish the raw holes to prevent moisture jacking into the exposed fiber ends.
Similar threads
