New build. Full carbon 29er weight weenie Super Commuter.

are you anti suspension seatpost like chalo?
maybe try that first it might pay bigger dividends than replacing the fork.

i used to be hardcore snob thinking that cush posts are for pu55ies, that you should be able to take it in the butt like a man.
got my first ever SS (a thuddy) after about a year of being pounded by 12 kg of rear hubmotor, (as much as your whole ebike) enuf was enuf.
so now whenever i switch back for the occasional spin on a rigid (like when my ebike needs working on) i cannot believe how i put up with the crap roads for so many years, and it gets worse every year, so many potholes it looks like downtown khandahar.
it's bit of a weight penalty i realize butt worth it imo no regrets & still lighter than FS or even just the front.
 
Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh said:
are you anti suspension seatpost like chalo?
maybe try that first it might pay bigger dividends than replacing the fork.

Parallelogram posts like Thudbuster make sense, and so do elastomer or spring-equipped saddles. Allsop Softride beams are not a bad idea either, if you can still get them. None of those things actively interferes with pedaling, or undermines the structural integrity of the frame and fork like the usual double boinger setup.

The suspension posts that are so awful they should all be melted down to make beer cans are the kind with a single telescoping element. Those make the saddle slop around annoyingly, unless you tighten up the bushing so much that the motion becomes hesitant budging rather than suspension per se. Of course, the awful kind of suspension seatpost is by far the most common.

Because with bicycle suspension, it doesn't matter whether it's any good. It only matters that it's there. People who "must" have suspension will buy it, good or horrible. Because people who "must" have suspension on their bicycles are more concerned with imagined ride qualities than with actual ride qualities. Any kind of suspension, good or bad, allows them to imagine that it's awesome. And any kind of unsuspended frame, no matter what tires are on it, allows them to imagine that it must be a "bone crusher".

P.S. - if you stand up before hitting a bump instead of sitting there inert like a 'tater (or a motorist), you'll save your body and bike some needless abuse.
 
spinningmagnets said:
Kepler, you have raised the bar on what can be considered "stealth". Not only that, but the level of professionalism in your execution is truly inspiring (as always).
Thank you Spinner. Very much appreciated.
 
Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh, I have never tried a suspension seat but certainly willing to give something a try. Thank you for the suggestion.

Chalo, thanks for your feedback on what type of suspension seat post to get. I probably would have got the telescopic type just for looks. Sounds like you may have saved me some disappointment there.

I do tend to stand up if I see a bump coming and absorb the impact through my legs. The one's you dont see are the one's that get you :(
 
t3sla said:
I check this thread regularly in fear of frame failure :oops:

Get concerned every time it's got an update :(

Do you do a 10 point inspection every-time you get on or off the unit? :lol:

Are you trying to make me paranoid? :)

I hope that since this is a mountain bike carbon frame, it will be robust enough for a lightweight ebike application especially considering its not going off road.

I think the fact that the frame has not been modified in anyway will help a lot also. That being said, yes the bike gets well inspected after ever ride. Probably the rear dropouts are my biggest concern.
 
Congrats on the finished product, I haven't seen anything that slick since the deepwater horizon incident :p

Re: suspension seat posts, I've been looking at them too and found these SR suntour ones that look similar to the thudbuster but are around half the price
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sr-SUNTOUR-SP7-NEX-D3-SUSPENSION-SEAT-POST-color-BLACK-condition-NEW-/330884687536?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0a43a6b0

Also re: your drops, I think I asked you before but the actual drops are aluminium aren't they ? I guess it's a bit hard to tell how much of them actually are metal but I guess it's like the standard frame building parts that have lugs that extend up into the chain and seat stays.
 
Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh said:
the two that spring to the top of the list are your impressive water displacement & gravity drag.

Yes, I am a much, much bigger and stronger man than you are. Sorry.

No, I do not fly, so I am not subject to gravity drag by the customary meaning of that term.
 
Hyena said:
Congrats on the finished product, I haven't seen anything that slick since the deepwater horizon incident :p

Re: suspension seat posts, I've been looking at them too and found these SR suntour ones that look similar to the thudbuster but are around half the price
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sr-SUNTOUR-SP7-NEX-D3-SUSPENSION-SEAT-POST-color-BLACK-condition-NEW-/330884687536?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0a43a6b0

Also re: your drops, I think I asked you before but the actual drops are aluminium aren't they ? I guess it's a bit hard to tell how much of them actually are metal but I guess it's like the standard frame building parts that have lugs that extend up into the chain and seat stays.

Thanks Jay.

With the battery in the seat bag, it might be hard to use a suspension seat post after all. Might just have to live with the harsh ride for now.
The rear dropouts do have aluminium inserts molded glued to them so hopefully the strength will be fine.
 
I don't really like the idea of suspension sp for various reasons. You are better off getting some wider tyres. 50mm marathon supreme I'm using now are very comfy. Would be even better on 700c rim. 40mm is a good starting point. Just remember wider tyres also mean more aero drag. The difference in rolling resistance is hardly noticeable otherwise. Since its a true 29er and not a road bike it's nice to have the option of wider tyres.
 
Been clocking up a few kms on the bike and really starting to warm to it. Made a minor change to the controls by swapping the button throttle and power adjustment pot around. Made more sense to be able the operate the button throttle and rear derailleur at the same time.

Only real issue is the noisy motor. This is the first bafang Fun geared hub I have used. As soon as the power gets above 250W, it gets noisy and sends a major vib through the bike. Surely this isn't normal.
 
full-throttle said:
I don't really like the idea of suspension sp for various reasons. You are better off getting some wider tyres. 50mm marathon supreme I'm using now are very comfy. Would be even better on 700c rim. 40mm is a good starting point. Just remember wider tyres also mean more aero drag. The difference in rolling resistance is hardly noticeable otherwise. Since its a true 29er and not a road bike it's nice to have the option of wider tyres.

The Gatorskins are 28x700 which is as narrow as I can put on the rims. Gives me plenty of scope to go right up to 50mm if I need too.
 
Kepler said:
Been clocking up a few kms on the bike and really starting to warm to it. Made a minor change to the controls by swapping the button throttle and power adjustment pot around. Made more sense to be able the operate the button throttle and rear derailleur at the same time.

Only real issue is the noisy motor. This is the first bafang Fun geared hub I have used. As soon as the power gets above 250W, it gets noisy and sends a major vib through the bike. Surely this isn't normal.

I have a bafang BPM and it is very quiet until you push it above 25mph or up a very steep hill - I wonder if your overvolted (and probably over-currented) wee bafang is just at it's limit of happieness..!

-edit :- My motor does not vibrate heavily, but I wonder if that could be due to differences in construction of the BPM...
 
The Gatorskins are 28x700 which is as narrow as I can put on the rims. Gives me plenty of scope to go right up to 50mm if I need too.

Hi Kepler

Great build. I like it very much. I have 32mm x 700c a older hybrid that rides relatively well. Still light enough to feel like a road bike, but much plusher. Played with tire pressure to give a wide range of ride feel. I would keep it ridged and as light as possible. No active suspension anywhere. Cross bars / brake setup possibly. Most of a suspensions effect is in the first few millimeters of travel. On your build this can be handled relatively easily in the tires. I remember going to a handle bar setup that was mounted on rubber o rings on a old mx racing motorcycle. This seemingly silly change made a huge improvement in ride and control on washboard surfaces. Minute changes with great results. Possible try a lighter/ flexier lower spoke count front wheel if front is hard riding. The added motor and battery weight make the back half a bit tougher to hop with, but confident with the right sizes tire and pressure, it will float over stuff well.

The carbon tubes ring like chimes at resonance. Some simple way I have seen to dampen this out is with a few strips of tape or other dampening material in the right spots. Quarter sized thick tape stickers in the right areas will kill most of the ringing. Certainly dull the hard sound. Not sure if any softer insulating washers / tape /rubber layer may be possible at the axle / frame / torque arm interfaces. Possibly tie the rear spokes or adding dampeners on the motor housing if they are contributing to the ringing.

No fears on the carbon frame. It is most likely much stronger than the aluminum versions. Just keep hard object away from it.

best wishes.
 
Had my first serious commute on the bike today. 27km into work. Bike went really well and was plenty quick enough for conditions. I was certainly the quickest bike out there.

Was a good oportunity to work out what power settings worked best. I will be swapping out the the Power pot for a 3 way switch as this is easier to use then fiddling with a pot while riding.

Settings will be 250W, 400W, and 650W. 250W maintains a cruise of 35kph, 400W maintains 40kph, and 650W is good for maintaining speed while hill climbing and 45kph cruise although my gearing is low for this at the moment.

Here are a few stats. Battery used was 18S 1P 5ah (3 x 6S 5ah packs) This was more then enough for this distance.
 

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This bike is a fairly similar spec to mine.

http://www.dolomitiebikes.com.au/bh-emotion-electric-bikes/neo-carbon

Neo Carbon.jpg

As a comparison, I spent about $3,000 building my bike compared to $3,700.00 for this bike.

Biggest difference is speed and power. Hard to justify $3,700.00 on a bike that only does 25kph and has 250W. Athough I doubt even if the speed limit was removed it would go much quicker then 30kph on 36V. All the same, a very nice bike.
 
No, 400W is too much for most of the paths i am on. 250W is enough. However, 250W is not enough as soon as there is a bit of a hill unless you are happy to slow down of course :)

Comparing it to my geared hub Fighter, it needs around 500W for sustained 35kph. So compared to it, I am quite please with the performance.
 
Hyena said:
6.6 wh/km ?!
Burn the witch! :p
You really need to try pedalling Hyena. 8)
 
Lol. I see compare able energy usage per speed on my 29er so I thought with a carbon frame and minimalistic accessories and battery AND geared hub it would make more of a difference. My shunt value may be incorrect, or did you say you still had to calibrate yours properly Kepler?
 
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