new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

I should be getting my 3000w motor soon...then ill be an official member of cyclone!
Time to remove my GNG chain drive. Hopefully the cyclone will be an improvement
 
What voltage and current were you running the GNG at?

ebike11 said:
I should be getting my 3000w motor soon...then ill be an official member of cyclone!
Time to remove my GNG chain drive. Hopefully the cyclone will be an improvement
 
ebike11 said:
I should be getting my 3000w motor soon...then ill be an official member of cyclone!
Time to remove my GNG chain drive. Hopefully the cyclone will be an improvement

An improvement is an understatement...

G.
 
robocam said:
What voltage and current were you running the GNG at?

ebike11 said:
I should be getting my 3000w motor soon...then ill be an official member of cyclone!
Time to remove my GNG chain drive. Hopefully the cyclone will be an improvement

I was riding at 72V
Speed was good but fairly noisy..i think the controller was from greentime..45A
I plan to modify the Cyclone controller to the highest as possible and also run 74V
I figured also that there is one less chain to deal with on the cyclone so im hoping its quieter
 
Will this kit do well on an aluminum frame bike? What part of the frame takes the most abuse from the motor?

Or is most of the wear and tear on the drive train parts?
 
I have the Cyclone TW website on my browser and I am seriously thinking about buying the 68mm BB Cyclone 3000W as I just noticed my Conhismotor 1500W kit has a cracked Rhyno Lite rim right at the pin joint. I am seriously thinking about clicking the buy button.

I think the 1800W-3000W as its listed would be better then the BBSHD because it has more power, or does it?
The BBSHD is listed as 1000W at Luna and EM3EV. I need that extra power for my 375lb sexy body.


My other bike (Strong GTS) has a ~82mm BB so I think its best to put the mid drive on the Townie, as I like it better.
Cyclone is listed as 36-72V and 40A(cont) so 72X40 = 2880W for $320-$350USD, or I could go with the Cyclone Axial 4000W for $400-$440USD. Square Taper vs ISIS, is the only price difference.
 
iu

markz said:
I have the Cyclone TW website on my browser and I am seriously thinking about buying the 68mm BB Cyclone 3000W as I just noticed my Conhismotor 1500W kit has a cracked Rhyno Lite rim right at the pin joint. I am seriously thinking about clicking the buy button.

I think the 1800W-3000W as its listed would be better then the BBSHD because it has more power, or does it?
The BBSHD is listed as 1000W at Luna and EM3EV. I need that extra power for my 375lb sexy body.


My other bike (Strong GTS) has a ~82mm BB so I think its best to put the mid drive on the Townie, as I like it better.
Cyclone is listed as 36-72V and 40A(cont) so 72X40 = 2880W for $320-$350USD, or I could go with the Cyclone Axial 4000W for $400-$440USD. Square Taper vs ISIS, is the only price difference.
 
What brand and tooth count do you recommend for the rear wheel cassette and chain going from the motor to chainring and then chainring to rear cassette, that will stand most of the abuse from the motor?
Do you guys use the supplied chain from cyclone from the motor to the chainring?
 
I plan to use a different chain for sure for my 4k kit.
Other then that I got no clue what else would be recommended to switch out.
I will probably end up doing a Sunwin external controller mounted on the downtube (stem to bb)
 
Why a cyclone over something like a QS Motor 205 3000w 50H V3?

It seems like the 205 hub produces more power, is easier to install and is easier on the drive train.


For the Trek Marlin I just bought, I'm going to just use a BBSHD and keep it as more of a commuter bike because everywhere I go is under 8 miles total trip back and forth.

For my next build after this I'm getting a Ruff Cycles Denzel frame and build an ebike with a large frame and then I will want more power in that build-- I want it to be more emotorbike than bicycle so I will be looking for 45 mph from that.
 
I think versatility could be one answer.

G.

Mikey_Builds said:
Why a cyclone over something like a QS Motor 205 3000w 50H V3?

It seems like the 205 hub produces more power, is easier to install and is easier on the drive train.


For the Trek Marlin I just bought, I'm going to just use a BBSHD and keep it as more of a commuter bike because everywhere I go is under 8 miles total trip back and forth.

For my next build after this I'm getting a Ruff Cycles Denzel frame and build an ebike with a large frame and then I will want more power in that build-- I want it to be more emotorbike than bicycle so I will be looking for 45 mph from that.
 
gman1971 said:
I think versatility could be one answer.

G.

What does that even mean?

I don't want to go off road do I can't think of anything that the Cyclone can do better than a hub, save for keep the COG more in line with how bicycles are designed, which means more when riding on trails than the streets.
 
LOL is all I have for your answer man.

Care to see? or better yet, care to listen?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zBFeAPSpbM

I hear gears, don't you?... and that sounds exactly like my Cyclone 6.5kW trike ripping through the gears in a 0-60 mph pull.

Oh, BTW, if you want to talk hubs, I think you're in the wrong section of the forum; or if you want to talk BBSHD, you're in the wrong thread as well.

G.


Mikey_Builds said:
gman1971 said:
I think versatility could be one answer.

G.

What does that even mean?

I don't want to go off road do I can't think of anything that the Cyclone can do better than a hub, save for keep the COG more in line with how bicycles are designed, which means more when riding on trails than the streets.
 
I already know ppl go fast with them. I saw Inglewood Knight on the hwy with his.

I asked what makes the Cyclone a better choice than a hub. A two word response is useless "versatility" means absolutely nothing without context. Going fast doesn't = versatility unless you mean you can go at regular commuting speeds and then hooligan it up really fast for fun. Your responses are devoid of any real context.

For my fast ebike build why should I choose a cyclone 3000 or 7500w over a 205 or 273 hub? Which is the most reliable and easy to install and live with?
 
If you want the ultimate fast, the 7500XL, b/c it has gears, and the ability to go fast and tow stuff at low speed without melting stuff, abusing batteries or requiring an absurdly high amp controllers should be reason enough to go for the mid-drive. But to me the 3000W is a better blend of power, speed, driveability, and efficiency...

For ease of install, its up to your skills, I got the mid-drive install process down to a science and have all the tools, so for me installing another one is real easy.

As for reliability, I commute to work everyday on my trike on the road, snow, rain or shine: 7200 miles, 1 3/4 years (and counting) without ever breaking down, or better yet, since I've built this trike I've never required a ride home or be rescued while stranded. Never. And if you want speed, what about 30mph average commuting speeds for fast?

As for Inglewood .... well, while fun, no one should be planning riding on the highways, I built mine to have a 60+ mph top so I could ride at 30mph comfortably around town without having the sense that I am at the ragged edge; I definitively never built mine to showcase on YT blatantly illegal things like riding on a highway at speeds that are, simply put, dangerous for bicycle grade gear, and where there are clear signs "no-bicycles"; again, this is all fun and games until someone gets hurt. No matter how much anyone wants to believe their bicycle with 7.5kW or 10, or 20kW is a motorcycle: it simply ain't, components ain't the same, especially brakes... and no amount of power is going to change that.


Here is my Cyclone 3000W powered A-1 e-trike, finally with all its stage #2 bodywork done in molded plastic, no more temp stuff... :) all in preparation for its second winter, and hopefully by next year this time it'll have close to 14,000, 100% reliability rate, miles on the clock.

21231251_1473791372735062_8912470438333171274_n.jpg


Enjoy!

Stage #3 aero package has already begun, I plan on doing more work on the body for a winter configuration... maybe even closed cockpit, who knows... :)

G.
 
Another option is the new Lightning Rod mid-drive, which is designed to run high-RPM operation.... check it out on their thread. Again, I am all Cyclone now, but there are other options out there that seem decent, and the LR one is made in the USA too, which might matter to some folks (like me); only wish he would've made this kit 3 years ago.

G.
 
I like the body on that trike!

I've always been afraid of using a trike on the road because of how low they are but have always wanted one.
 
Mikey_Builds said:
I like the body on that trike!

I've always been afraid of using a trike on the road because of how low they are but have always wanted one.

Thanks,

Nothing to be afraid of, and in my experience ppl are actually much nicer to me riding the trike than they were when I rode an eBike... so it sounds like its time to build a fast e-Trike, and not an eBike. :) who needs two wheels when you can have three!! :)

Cheers.

G.
 
How does law enforcement respond to you? Amused?

Where I live, law enforcement is lax on ebikes. We also have a few paths where fast ebikes are already legal or can become legal.
 
Mikey_Builds said:
How does law enforcement respond to you? Amused?

Where I live, law enforcement is lax on ebikes. We also have a few paths where fast ebikes are already legal or can become legal.

I don't know for certain, as I've never been bothered by LEOs (knock on wood), but respecting the rules of the road probably helps a long way with that.

Just be careful around trails, pedestrians are unpredictable, and hitting someone with a heavy eBike is a lawsuit waiting to happen.


G.
 
I've decided to just go Cyclone 3k. I would rather have power and not need, than waste more money on something that is going to be slower. I still want to use PAS at times on it but on the way to work I will throttle all the way. Don't wanna get sweaty.
 
Mikey_Builds said:
I've decided to just go Cyclone 3k. I would rather have power and not need, than waste more money on something that is going to be slower. I still want to use PAS at times on it but on the way to work I will throttle all the way. Don't wanna get sweaty.

I have the Cyclone PAS sensor on the 2nd e-Trike A-2, and it works well, but AFAIK you need a switch to toggle between PAS mode and throttle mode, you can't run throttle or PAS at the same time, other than that it should work.

G.
 
Is there a difference in peak torque between 36/48/52V and 72V if the controller's battery current limit is held constant? Let's say we have a 36/48/52V Cyclone 3000 vs a 72V Cyclone 3000 both on 40A controllers. Will one have more torque than the other?
 
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