new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[robocam]

Welcome! You can test the hall sensors by seeing if the green, blue, and yellow wires output voltage as you turn the motor shaft. Make sure the hall sensors are receiving power through the red and black wires. For example, leave the red and black wires hooked up to the controller, and then see if there is voltage between the blue and black wire at certain shaft positions and then test green and black and then yellow and black. All should read some voltage at some shaft position. If one is stuck on or stuck off, then you'll need a new board which you can order from Paco at http://www.cyclone-tw.com/ for $13 shipped.

You can also open the motor cover to see if there is a loose connection. You may want to test the continuity of the wires from the hall sensor board to the connector at the controller.

If you don't want to mess with the motor, you can order a replacement from Paco for $98.

You may also email Paco, and he can help you troubleshoot the problem. sales@cyclone-e-bikes.com

Hi, I'm new here and have the same problem with my cyclone setup (about 10 miles or so). I have that same "faint noise and stop" coming from my Cyclone 3000 motor. Have you figured out what is wrong with the motor? My cyclone 3000 is mounted to a cargo bike with a 74 V battery. Luna controller, motor and battery. It happened once before, but when I lightly wiggled the wire coming out of the motor, the cyclone turned the next time I used it. Now I try that trick again and nothing happens. Could something be disconnected or un-soldered inside the motor? Is their strain relief on that thick black wire coming out of the motor?

 

[robocam]

That's the main reason why I don't want a Bafang. I need my chain to be quite close to the motor bracket (right side of the bottom bracket) so that the chain doesn't run at too much of a slant, causing unusual wear on the chainring. It would be nice if they could put the reduction on the non-drive (left) side and allow the user to run any crankset they choose. I would buy it in a heartbeat if they did that!

I guess I could use the Eclipse on my new bike that I don't plan on using for towing, but I'd miss the granny 22/24T chainring that I could use for climbing without the motor.

Im sure there is a way to setup BBSHD with dual chain rings

Mechanically, its a piece of cake. The problem would be getting the chainline right. Most BBSHD owners seem to be happiest with the deeply inset Eclipse sprocket (depending on BB width and rear hub style).

If you use a 130-BCD or 104-BCD spider, then the inboard chainring would have a wide chainline, with the outboard chainring being even farther away from the center.

 

[robocam]

I don't know if I want to go around sounding like this.

(Cyclone Mini) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asvE8AK7vQI&t=0m28s

The reduction gears are metal so it sounds like a muffled cordless drill. It's a pretty reliable unit, but loud, at least for my standards.

 

[juanfeli]

Wow, that is a good looking bike and the stopping power must be equal to none.

You shouldn't have a problem with the motor as long as you have space for it.

 

[robocam]

Welcome! You can mount it in any orientation you desire. You could even mount it on the other side if you wanted to (a reverse freewheel is available). What kind of concerns did you have in mind? Very nice work btw! I like the brake design. What kind of rear hub is that?

To make the pictures visible, just put bracket img bracket and bracket /img bracket around the URL of the picture, like this.

Hi everyone.
Hope this is the right place to post my query, as this is my first post.
I have built a custom cruiser bike earlier this year, and now feel the 'need' to put some electric power into it
My question regarding the Cyclone 3000W mid drive motor -
Would there be any issues mounting the motor behind the BB? so 'upside down'? I'll obviously make custom mounts etc.
I have been looking at various builds using this motor and I think there will be sufficient room.
I'm not sure how to add pics, so i have added 2 links, hopefully they will be visible
Any comments or advice would be gratefully received
Nick

View attachment 1

 

[jk1]

Unread postby robocam » Wed Sep 21, 2016 8:40 am

Welcome! You can test the hall sensors by seeing if the green, blue, and yellow wires output voltage as you turn the motor shaft. Make sure the hall sensors are receiving power through the red and black wires. For example, leave the red and black wires hooked up to the controller, and then see if there is voltage between the blue and black wire at certain shaft positions and then test green and black and then yellow and black. All should read some voltage at some shaft position. If one is stuck on or stuck off, then you'll need a new board which you can order from Paco at http://www.cyclone-tw.com/ for $13 shipped.

You can also open the motor cover to see if there is a loose connection. You may want to test the continuity of the wires from the hall sensor board to the connector at the controller.

If you don't want to mess with the motor, you can order a replacement from Paco for $98.

You may also email Paco, and he can help you troubleshoot the problem. sales@cyclone-e-bikes.com

Robocam you changed your hall sensors, do you have any info or photos on how you do it ? where they glued into position ? and how did you get the motor open and change them ?

 

[robocam]

Hi, you can open the back cover by removing the 4 screws. Then gently tap the back off using a hammer and screwdriver. Tap a little at a time at different places around the back. Then do the same thing to the other side. You do not need to remove the pinion gear. I wiped off the blue grease with a glove and spread it over the plastic gears. Then I used a bunch of hex sockets to keep the other side open. The magnets will resist (you'll see what I mean when you try it).

I then used a radiator hose pick to remove the sensors. They're in there pretty tight. To install the new ones, just put them in place and use a couple wire ties to loosely hold the board in place. Paco said they don't need to be glued in.

Robocam you changed your hall sensors, do you have any info or photos on how you do it ? where they glued into position ? and how did you get the motor open and change them ?

 

[gman1971]

Very nice Robocam, as usual.

G.

 

[robocam]

Aw, thanks G =)

Very nice Robocam, as usual.

G.

 

[sather]

Is the 7.5 KW Cyclone more quiet than the 3000? It appears to not have the planetary gear box. Does anyone have the rpm specs for 52, 60 and 72 volts?
youtube cyclone https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S42PR75MXjc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_3395535651&feature=iv&src_vid=S42PR75MXjc&v=d82NoleQcoQ

 

[gman1971]

The XL7500 motor has no reduction (planetary), RPM is about 4000 at shaft @ 48V IIRC...

Paco has told me its quieter than the C3000W motor but how much that is unknown.

G.

 

[robocam]

Hi G, have you considered using that motor in a project? I'm very curious about it. How can one of these motors operate optimally without a primary reduction? It has such a high unloaded shaft speed (4000 rpm vs the Cyclone 3000's 600 rpm). Is that why it needs a 120A controller? It seems to me it would be very inefficient if used in the same application as the Cyclone 3000 (same gear ratios). It would be like operating the Cyclone 3000 at 91 rpm, similar to being stuck in speed 1 at all times. I can only imagine the potential of that motor if it had a primary reduction, or maybe it's so powerful it isn't necessary? Maybe having a 24T driving a 36T in the back would be enough or even not necessary? I have so many questions.

And why does Luna list it as a fatbike only kit? Cyclone doesn't, and that bike in the video looks like a regular bike. It must be so quiet without that primary reduction

The XL7500 motor has no reduction (planetary), RPM is about 4000 at shaft @ 48V IIRC...

Paco has told me its quieter than the C3000W motor but how much that is unknown.

G.

 

[StinkyGoalieGuy]

And why does Luna list it as a fatbike only

Just a guess, but maybe it's too wide to fit between the cranks of a standard 68mm bottom bracket.

You would probably have to come up with your own reduction or maybe go with 219 chain and do a direct drive 14T Pinion to a 90+ rear sprocket?

 

[robocam]

I was wondering about that, but then I noticed that Cyclone lists it available to fit a 68mm bottom bracket.

http://cyclone-tw.com/order-3chain.htm

And why does Luna list it as a fatbike only

Just a guess, but maybe it's too wide to fit between the cranks of a standard 68mm bottom bracket.

You would probably have to come up with your own reduction or maybe go with 219 chain and do a direct drive 14T Pinion to a 90+ rear sprocket?

 

[StinkyGoalieGuy]

I was wondering about that, but then I noticed that Cyclone lists it available to fit a 68mm bottom bracket.

http://cyclone-tw.com/order-3chain.htm

And why does Luna list it as a fatbike only

Just a guess, but maybe it's too wide to fit between the cranks of a standard 68mm bottom bracket.

You would probably have to come up with your own reduction or maybe go with 219 chain and do a direct drive 14T Pinion to a 90+ rear sprocket?

Good eye. I'm guessing they Cyclone Taiwan folks do it on a 68mm bottom bracket using a really long spindle. They make those but they look pretty ridiculous. For example: http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=114

So it looks like the Luna listing for this kit actually clarifies: "For use only on 120mm and wider bottom bracket fat bikes. It can be mounted on 100mm bottom brackets with a lot of creative mechanic work and maybe some machining. With normal 68-73mm BB the bracket will not fit and the motor is too wide for the cranks to clear."

 

[ChoppedMinx]

Welcome! You can mount it in any orientation you desire. You could even mount it on the other side if you wanted to (a reverse freewheel is available). What kind of concerns did you have in mind? Very nice work btw! I like the brake design. What kind of rear hub is that?

To make the pictures visible, just put bracket img bracket and bracket /img bracket around the URL of the picture, like this.

Hi everyone.
Hope this is the right place to post my query, as this is my first post.
I have built a custom cruiser bike earlier this year, and now feel the 'need' to put some electric power into it
My question regarding the Cyclone 3000W mid drive motor -
Would there be any issues mounting the motor behind the BB? so 'upside down'? I'll obviously make custom mounts etc.
I have been looking at various builds using this motor and I think there will be sufficient room.
I'm not sure how to add pics, so i have added 2 links, hopefully they will be visible
Any comments or advice would be gratefully received
Nick

View attachment 1

Thanks for your reply. My initial concern was of sufficient room between BB and motor, but I assume now that I can make bracketry to position the motor where I like within reason, and use longer drive chain if necessary. ( in fact I plan to make motor mounts in the same style as the bike)
The bottom bracket is a Bmx style, so I guess I will need to use a Bmx/bsa adaptor.
The rear hub is a nuvinci n380, hopefully it will be strong enough!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[jk1]

i opened up a C3000w motor recently that started running rough and this magnet was chipped pic attached?

Could this cause it to run rough ? i didn't find the piece inside , could this have happened in manufacturing or after it overheated or rubbed or something like that ?

 

[robocam]

How'd you get that out? Did you use a vise or something? When you say rough, what exactly is it doing? Is it vibrating at certain speeds like it's unbalanced, or is it an electronic type of unevenness like it's starting and stopping abruptly/randomly?

i opened up a C3000w motor recently that started running rough and this magnet was chipped pic attached?

Could this cause it to run rough ? i didn't find the piece inside , could this have happened in manufacturing or after it overheated or rubbed or something like that ?

 

[robocam]

You're welcome! Make sure you come back to show us the results =) Is the hub mounted to steel dropouts? Did the hub come with torque arms?

Thanks for your reply. My initial concern was of sufficient room between BB and motor, but I assume now that I can make bracketry to position the motor where I like within reason, and use longer drive chain if necessary. ( in fact I plan to make motor mounts in the same style as the bike)
The bottom bracket is a Bmx style, so I guess I will need to use a Bmx/bsa adaptor.
The rear hub is a nuvinci n380, hopefully it will be strong enough!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[jk1]

How'd you get that out? Did you use a vise or something? When you say rough, what exactly is it doing? Is it vibrating at certain speeds like it's unbalanced, or is it an electronic type of unevenness like it's starting and stopping abruptly/randomly?

With a puller, its more an electrical unbalanced type of vibration, i suspect it might either be that magnet or halls ?

 

[robocam]

Does it do it under load? Maybe you could post a video of its behavior.

How'd you get that out? Did you use a vise or something? When you say rough, what exactly is it doing? Is it vibrating at certain speeds like it's unbalanced, or is it an electronic type of unevenness like it's starting and stopping abruptly/randomly?

With a puller, its more an electrical unbalanced type of vibration, i suspect it might either be that magnet or halls ?

 

[MarkLeeds]

Hi Guys, very interested in this motor and am currently sourcing a doner bike. I was thinking of a specialized enduro (similar to stump jumper) but am concerned about the durability of the chainstays if I run the motor at 3000w. I plan to use the bike to to train for enduro races I do on my ktm motorcycle. I'd like to keep the motor inside the frame triangle as I plan to ride logs and rocks alot. Maybe a giant glory with a reservoirless air shock and custom motor mount would be better. Some words of wisdom would be really great - am very new to this. Thanks in advance.

 

[robocam]

Hi! If you run an outer chainring (motor to crankset) equal to or smaller than the inner chainring, you should be fine with any frame. This will reduce the amount of chain tension (i.e. less hard on your chainstays/pivot). An all mountain or downhill frame would probably be ideal.

Hi Guys, very interested in this motor and am currently sourcing a doner bike. I was thinking of a specialized enduro (similar to stump jumper) but am concerned about the durability of the chainstays if I run the motor at 3000w. I plan to use the bike to to train for enduro races I do on my ktm motorcycle. I'd like to keep the motor inside the frame triangle as I plan to ride logs and rocks alot. Maybe a giant glory with a reservoirless air shock and custom motor mount would be better. Some words of wisdom would be really great - am very new to this. Thanks in advance.

 

[Phife]

Hi Guys, very interested in this motor and am currently sourcing a doner bike. I was thinking of a specialized enduro (similar to stump jumper) but am concerned about the durability of the chainstays if I run the motor at 3000w. I plan to use the bike to to train for enduro races I do on my ktm motorcycle. I'd like to keep the motor inside the frame triangle as I plan to ride logs and rocks alot. Maybe a giant glory with a reservoirless air shock and custom motor mount would be better. Some words of wisdom would be really great - am very new to this. Thanks in advance.

I got one on my stumpy, have a look at my thread, link below. Stock mount works for in triangle mount on these bikes, but you will want to upgrade the mounts somehow, there are plenty of suggestions on here.


It fits great in the stumpy, should fit even better on a enduro. I have no problems with the chainstays. If I brickwall the bike and gun the throttle the chainstay will bend to the side a little, but nothing I'd be concerned for, it probably flexes and bends more doing some hard cornering and jumps. You will need to convert the PF30 BB to a BSA BB, I bought an adapter on ebay.

 

[MarkLeeds]

Hi Guys, very interested in this motor and am currently sourcing a doner bike. I was thinking of a specialized enduro (similar to stump jumper) but am concerned about the durability of the chainstays if I run the motor at 3000w. I plan to use the bike to to train for enduro races I do on my ktm motorcycle. I'd like to keep the motor inside the frame triangle as I plan to ride logs and rocks alot. Maybe a giant glory with a reservoirless air shock and custom motor mount would be better. Some words of wisdom would be really great - am very new to this. Thanks in advance.

I got one on my stumpy, have a look at my thread, link below. Stock mount works for in triangle mount on these bikes, but you will want to upgrade the mounts somehow, there are plenty of suggestions on here.


It fits great in the stumpy, should fit even better on a enduro. I have no problems with the chainstays. If I brickwall the bike and gun the throttle the chainstay will bend to the side a little, but nothing I'd be concerned for, it probably flexes and bends more doing some hard cornering and jumps. You will need to convert the PF30 BB to a BSA BB, I bought an adapter on ebay.

Great thanks for that, it's great you are active on the forum. I posted another couple of questions on your build thread if you have the time.