No more e bikes!!!!. That is only one closet!
I still have another full closet with the Currie, that 26" Roadmaster I was going to put 20" wheels on and that Magna that dude never came to pick up for his kid. It is ridecelous! Every time I bring another bike home the ol lady looks like she is going to murder me. She says I need professional help as I cant stop spending money on e bikes. She says it is like an addiction!
Whats worse is I got a shopping cart in the back yard full of parts (frames,wheels and shit). As far as that kit DA. I was thinking gear reduction motors really are not that bad. 250W however is underpowered and wont go 18mph. Lucky if it will go 10mph. How I know is The original Currie ezip trailz had a 450W gear reduction motor on it from the factory and fresh out of Wall-Mart. It was set up a lot like that kit. and was lucky if it went 15mph. However once it was upgraded to 36V and 675W it was very fast. Prehaps faster than the original 48V MY1020 motor running at 36V and 750W. And faster than the DB and the red bike with the new 1,000W unite motor at 36V and 750W.
1. Currie gear reduction motor@36V = 26mph.
2. Currie with MY1020 motor@36V = 25mph.
3. 20" bikes with Unite motor@36V = 24mph.
Your kit would be perfect with the Currie 450W motor at 36V and 675W but geared lower for about 17mph as it burned out going up a steep hill. In my opinion 500W is minimum for hills and next month when I order 4s Lipos for 32.8V and 670W it will be perfect. I like the way the kit is set up and wish I could order it for about $30 without the motor, controller and throttle. I would order two for the little 24V motors I am installing on the 18" bike. It would be a lot easier than what I am trying to do now. However I will succeed. It just wont be as easy.
The kit would probably succeed too if the motor were at least 500W. 250W just dont cut it unless you weigh about 100lbs. Expecially if it is geared for 18mph@250W. To go up a hill with a 200lb person It would have to be geared for less than 10mph. 7 or 8mph on the flat and would go up mild to moderate hills at about 3 to 5mph. Geared any higher it would burn out like the Currie motor did.
I am sure you realize this too DA. and am also quite sure that you are testing all of us. Guess what? LC passed the test.
I am sure most of the rest of you guys knew also but did not say anything. :lol: I have learned not only from the original Currie motor but from the little 280W motors I have been experimenting with. 8) . Why do you think I insist on running two in series @36V for 420W total. Also the main reason I dont run them in series at 48V for 560W is I would need 90 tooth sprockets for 20mph.I am not even sure if there is such a thing plus the motors are used and one gets really hot. Two brand new at 48V in series for 560W and 90 tooth sprockets for 20mph would be ideal. To get any usefull life out of the two old ones I got 18V each and 17mph gearing is the logical choice.
My recommendation used a 24V 350w pushed to 36V 525w and a non-freewheel sprocket to provide deceleration when throttle released and total cost ~$100
Ok I did not see that. that makes more sense.
Why do you think I have been whinning about rebuilding and rewinding that motor ever since it burned out. If the motor was geared lower for about 17mph instead of 25+ mph at 36V it would still be running. I have learned a lot. If I ever got my hands on another Currie with that motor I would do the same thing by upgrading it to 36V. Then I would either figure out how to gear it lower or add a motor on the front to help it out up hills.
Also here is a real motor kit I have had my eye on for a long time.
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html
What should happen DA. is an inexpensive kit to mount that motor (a real motor) to the wheel exactly the way it is done in that kit. Then if you want real performance it could be run at 32.8V for 1200W and about 33mph. Notice the size of it. It dont look much bigger than the 280W unite motors I have or the 250W gear reduction motor in that kit yet it is almost equel to the MY1020 1,000W 3,000rpm motor yet it is only 2600rpm. With a 26" wheel using #25 chain (not recomended in my opinion for that power level) a 11 tooth motor sprocket and 80 tooth wheel sprocket is good for 28mph.
Basically if a motor such as that can be built than anything that requires gear reduction bolted on to the motor is of an inferior design. the motor should have been designed/wound to not require the gear reduction add on. However for simple gear reduction the add on such as the one on the currie which I took apart would be perfect as a bolt on gear reduction system and sold to be bolted to the Hobby King RC motors with too high of a KV to be used for e bike applications without gear reduction. It would also be good for the 1500W brushless motors ranging from 5600rpm up to about 7,000rpm. The jackshaft or very expensive planetary gearboxes sound way too complicated as well as pricey.
After I get a motor for the Currie which will probably be the 3300W Ampflow motor for 47mph
I will be looking to put the 2015 HPC Crystalyte The Crown GEARLESS e-bike Electric Bike Hub Motor 60+ MPH on either the Magna, or the Roadmaster if the guy buys the Magna.
That makes six e bikes. We should be close to 200 pages here by then and I have to start counting how many episodes of As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns so we can celebrate the anniversary when it comes up.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Drinking beer until dawn and sleeping most of the day away dont help the cause either.
:x 
