new eZip motor

[DAND214]

LC, you are forgetting who started this Schwinn ride. It wasn't me, it was Sunder!. I just sent the batteries, charger and small stuff. Sunder is the one to BLAME :lol: :lol:

Are you saying you want to lower the voltage to get the gearing correct? that still doesn't change the gearing just lowers the watts that the motor puts out and is still over geared. YOU THINK? Gearing was important while I was racing. but now all I need to worry about is, what turn HUB motor I want to run for a good torque and speed. Save all you wasted money and get a small geared hub to make it simple.
I like building but I like riding much more!

dan

 

[DrkAngel]

For proper gearing, I still recommend the external gear reduction motor.

Might fit inside bottom of rear triangle between cranks ... ?
Small light simple build for less than $100!
Includes Motor, sprocket, controller, chain.

Saves money, weight, complexity etc ...
With a wide range of cheap re-gearing and revolting options!

 

[DAND214]

Yep DA, that would work just fine.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

LC, you are forgetting who started this Schwinn ride. It wasn't me, it was Sunder!. I just sent the batteries, charger and small stuff. Sunder is the one to BLAME :lol: :lol:

Really not sure what you are even talking about Dan. There is nothing wrong with the Schwinn Sunder sent. It works perfectly. It is a fully functional e bike with good brakes and it climbs hills just fine and goes about 25mph easily on the flat. I will be putting up a video soon. The only issue I ever had with that and the Currie I built was difficulty carrying it up the stairs.

The only thing really wrong with the 24" bike I did the videos of yesterday was the brakes need minor adjusting. It made it up the little hills and ran fine on the flat. The LVC kicked in when attempting full throttle but that is normal when running old LIPOs. I am not even complaining about them either as I have got hundreds of miles out of free batteries and if I combine all four for a single 22.2V pack I will probably get a few hundred more.

The only griping I did was about all the negativity. NOTHING I build is ever right. There is always something wrong with it. I made it back home with the 24" bike I built and the burrito was still warm for the ol lady. I see things differently than you guys. For me yesterday was a smashing success. I don't really need to go up any really big hills anyway. I still would like gear reduction though.

Gear reduction motors are what DA. says I should get. He has a good point. If I was only interested in riding one e bike and replacing a blown motor that would be the case and was the case when first starting this post over two years ago. Since being on this forum though I have learned about gear reduction, friction drives and ever hooking motors up to gear boxes and having several gears to use for hills and stuff.

I also have learned about different motors. I know a geared hub motor or regular hub motor is easier and even stated that multiple times. If I was looking for the easy way I would simply have saved up my money and got one of those fold up bikes that go about 20mph or that share roller. I am doing custom and moderately difficult builds because I am really into building e bikes not just riding them. In fact I don't ride them much at all as I need to walk for my heart as it is my only exercise however If I do need a e bike I simply break one out of my closet.

I am going to build the red bike soon. The bike in the video yesterday is a great project bike in my eyes. There are a lot of possibilities. It will handle much better with the triangle rack finished and the new LIPOs and a minor brake adjustment. It does not matter to me if it wont go up any big hills. I can walk up steep hills for exercise for my heart.

If I really want to tackle big hills I could simply put a MY1020 1,000W Unite motor on the back of the Schwinn. With both motors and two throttles I would go up almost any hill. :lol: . Once I move to a first floor place I may just do that. Until then I wish to pursue custom spoke sprockets. I am looking for aluminum hopefully as it is lighter and custom sizes. Also I am interested in gear reduction units such as a jackshaft or similar device. Also a gearshift box like Skalabala talked about doing for that big block brushless motor.

I would appreciate any help in moving forward from a beginner e bike builder to an advanced e bike builder. It is not that I don't listen to good advice. Not only do I listen but understand most of it. I know what the limitations are on my builds. I know what needs improvement and what don't. It is simply a conflict of interest. If I simply wanted an e bike for simple reliable transportation then I would have simply stopped when I finished the Schwinn. It is as close to perfection as anything I did. I am not ignoring good advice. I am simply wanting to learn to do more. I am interested in advanced e bike building and design. Any help will be appreciated. After the Red bike is done I would like to do a friction drive with the little Razor bike and those 280W motors.

It obviously wont be for reliable transportation to doctors and cargo. It will just be a little fun bike to hop on to go 3/4 mile down the road to Eric' or CVS pharmacy. That's what I meant in the video when I said the LIPOs Dan sent need to go on light duty. If I combine them into a single pack I could get many short runs out of them. I am going to take out the Schwinn today as I never posted a video on YouTube riding it so I should have it up soon. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. The Cadillac of e bikes.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQBskmWDwp8&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWWu5vOZZKU&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGZW6exZaIA&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TUfz3mwAkY&feature=youtu.be

The Currie will need a new motor too. Plenty of room there for a gear reduction unit don't you think? The motor can go towards the top a few inches higher than when I installed the MY1020 motor before on the first few pages of this post and the gearbox under it. I could either go with AmpFlow or a RC motor from Hobby King. I would love to build it.

The Magna would probably work with that 900W 24V motor kit from Monster Scooters. At 32V of 4s LIPO I could get about 33mph out of it. Going to the link now and page 71 for a sprocket size.

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html

A 80T wheel sprocket and 11T motor sprocket gears it for 26mph @ 24V. It would hit close to 30mph with 32V of 4s LIPO. I may even throw a geared hub motor on the front for serious hill climbing ability. Thanks. Any links for gear reduction units and friction drive parts for these future builds will be greatly appreciated. Please post when you can.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS5&_nkw=Mini+Pocket+Bike+Parts+33+43+49cc+Transmission+X1+X2+X6+&_sacat=0

Yes I am researching. Still a little over my head though. Not sure what would work and what wont. Same way with friction drives. Thanks.



LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

LC, you are forgetting who started this Schwinn ride. It wasn't me, it was Sunder!. I just sent the batteries, charger and small stuff. Sunder is the one to BLAME :lol: :lol:

Really not sure what you are even talking about Dan. There is nothing wrong with the Schwinn Sunder sent. It works perfectly. It is a fully functional e bike with good brakes and it climbs hills just fine and goes about 25mph easily on the flat. I will be putting up a video soon. The only issue I ever had with that and the Currie I built was difficulty carrying it up the stairs.

The only thing really wrong with the 24" bike I did the videos of yesterday was the brakes need minor adjusting. It made it up the little hills and ran fine on the flat. The LVC kicked in when attempting full throttle but that is normal when running old LIPOs. I am not even complaining about them either as I have got hundreds of miles out of free batteries and if I combine all four for a single 22.2V pack I will probably get a few hundred more.

The only griping I did was about all the negativity. NOTHING I build is ever right. There is always something wrong with it. I made it back home with the 24" bike I built and the burrito was still warm for the ol lady. I see things differently than you guys. For me yesterday was a smashing success. I don't really need to go up any really big hills anyway. I still would like gear reduction though.

Gear reduction motors are what DA. says I should get. He has a good point. If I was only interested in riding one e bike and replacing a blown motor that would be the case and was the case when first starting this post over two years ago. Since being on this forum though I have learned about gear reduction, friction drives and ever hooking motors up to gear boxes and having several gears to use for hills and stuff.

I also have learned about different motors. I know a geared hub motor or regular hub motor is easier and even stated that multiple times. If I was looking for the easy way I would simply have saved up my money and got one of those fold up bikes that go about 20mph or that share roller. I am doing custom and moderately difficult builds because I am really into building e bikes not just riding them. In fact I don't ride them much at all as I need to walk for my heart as it is my only exercise however If I do need a e bike I simply break one out of my closet.

I am going to build the red bike soon. The bike in the video yesterday is a great project bike in my eyes. There are a lot of possibilities. It will handle much better with the triangle rack finished and the new LIPOs and a minor brake adjustment. It does not matter to me if it wont go up any big hills. I can walk up steep hills for exercise for my heart.

If I really want to tackle big hills I could simply put a MY1020 1,000W Unite motor on the back of the Schwinn. With both motors and two throttles I would go up almost any hill. :lol: . Once I move to a first floor place I may just do that. Until then I wish to pursue custom spoke sprockets. I am looking for aluminum hopefully as it is lighter and custom sizes. Also I am interested in gear reduction units such as a jackshaft or similar device. Also a gearshift box like Skalabala talked about doing for that big block brushless motor.

I would appreciate any help in moving forward from a beginner e bike builder to an advanced e bike builder. It is not that I don't listen to good advice. Not only do I listen but understand most of it. I know what the limitations are on my builds. I know what needs improvement and what don't. It is simply a conflict of interest. If I simply wanted an e bike for simple reliable transportation then I would have simply stopped when I finished the Schwinn. It is as close to perfection as anything I did. I am not ignoring good advice. I am simply wanting to learn to do more. I am interested in advanced e bike building and design. Any help will be appreciated. After the Red bike is done I would like to do a friction drive with the little Razor bike and those 280W motors.

It obviously wont be for reliable transportation to doctors and cargo. It will just be a little fun bike to hop on to go 3/4 mile down the road to Eric' or CVS pharmacy. That's what I meant in the video when I said the LIPOs Dan sent need to go on light duty. If I combine them into a single pack I could get many short runs out of them. I am going to take out the Schwinn today as I never posted a video on YouTube riding it so I should have it up soon. Thanks.
LC. out.

LC, all I was trying to say was that Sunders started it and I just helped. Not trying to take any credit for the build...
Videos are pretty damn good. better than I would do, a lot.

What I want in my builds are reliability! I ride to get the exercise I need I pedal when I ride, good for your heart, knees and I lose weight! I too have too many Ebikes but building another? Once again, reliability is key. Like you with the banjo string chain, I worry about the wiring more than anything else. bad wiring can and will ruin a good build if not done properly.

can you get a smaller drive sprocket for the motor? That makes it easier to get a closer gear ratio than changing the big gear.

I thought you were going to use the LiPos for todays ride with the Schwinn. Did you ever get the Organic LiPos balanced? I know you are trying to balance at 4.1v but you need to top them off at 4.2 once in a while to see how the are reacting or living. Have you used the Generic packs at all? In the one pic they looked puffed, I sure hope not.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 1


I only balanced charged the pack with the low cell and not all the way until fully balanced. Charging them with those plugs and alligator clips is kind of treacherous. I am waiting until I get those small cash boxes and L brackets to mount them on each side of the triangle rack. I got a tube of wood filler to countersink the power bolts on the inside of the triangle rack.

I have what I need to solder but as it is my LEAST favorite thing to do am kind of waiting until I get in the mood for it. :lol:
Since the Cash boxes are $20 it is on hold until next month. Until then I will be focusing on the 20" Red bike with the 500W motor. I want to run all six SLAs for 24V@30Ah. Also I made a mistake in the one video. The Razor bike is an 18" bike not 20". I really want to do the friction drive with those little motors and use the cash box with the LIPOs you sent for a little light duty bike good for about two mile round trips tops. No hills.

Some people would say more than one e bike is unnecessary. I ,like you disagree. I like having different e bikes for different purposes. Light duty as I just stated. At least one and preferably two cargo bikes which will eventually be the red bike for light to moderate cargo and the Currie for heavy cargo. Those bikes should be geared to climb hills. Then a fun/race bike like the 24" bike I rode yesterday that has the tight chain.

The Schwinn obviously is the super reliable bike and is versatile as it can run 36 to 48V. Then eventually the Magna which will be a full racing bike. It has dual suspension, Cantilever brakes and perfectly straight wheels. The steering is perfect and is my only candidate for a 50mph build at this time. Thanks for posting Dan and I hope DA, Sunder and other ES members will watch my videos. I had fun doing them and look forward to doing more. I have a front pocket in my coat that holds the camera.

I agree they do come out well but I could do without that background noise. I hope eventually to get a camera that mounts on the handlebars. They had one at the Family Dollar but not anymore. Probably low quality though I would imagine. Thanks again DAN.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxPZvWdCwv0&feature=youtu.be

I ride to get the exercise I need I pedal when I ride, good for your heart, knees and I lose weight!

Pedaling actually hurts my right knee more than walking. I could walk much farther than pedal as when pedaling I have to bend my knee close to a 45 degree angle which causes intense pain. If I raise the seat up it helps some. I would rather take my time and walk up a big hill than damaging my knee further doing pedal assist. Also to give the motor and batteries a break. I learned my lesson when I burned out the Currie motor. I have not burned out a second motor because I understand the limitations. I simply walk period to get exercise. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Pedaling is great therapy for many knee ailments.

High rpm - low stress though.
eaBike is ideal.

 

[latecurtis]

Pedaling is great therapy for many knee ailments.

High rpm - low stress though.
eaBike is ideal.

That would hold true in most cases but the orthopedic doctor specifically stated that Total knee replacement was the only treatment recommended. he said no amount of physical therapy would help however I found that walking and the treadmill at the gym is tolerable as long as I don't bend my knee much. more than once when walking home from Wall-Mart I got a ride halfway back and it hurt like hell just bending my leg enough to get into a car. However I have pedaled the Magna around sometimes. the higher the seat the better and I always feel a lot of pain the next day afterwards but yes a little light pedaling is good as long as I don't overdo it. Not bending the knee much at all can increase the arthritis also. I am still better off walking up the big hills though as not only is it better for my knee but it saves the motor and batteries. Since there are not too many hills here that are steep that is a plus. Thanks DA. Hope you watched the videos.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

Pedaling is great therapy for many knee ailments.

High rpm - low stress though.
eaBike is ideal.

That would hold true in most cases but the orthopedic doctor specifically stated that Total knee replacement was the only treatment recommended. he said no amount of physical therapy would help however I found that walking and the treadmill at the gym is tolerable as long as I don't bend my knee much. more than once when walking home from Wall-Mart I got a ride halfway back and it hurt like hell just bending my leg enough to get into a car. However I have pedaled the Magna around sometimes. the higher the seat the better and I always feel a lot of pain the next day afterwards but yes a little light pedaling is good as long as I don't overdo it. Not bending the knee much at all can increase the arthritis also. I am still better off walking up the big hills though as not only is it better for my knee but it saves the motor and batteries. Since there are not too many hills here that are steep that is a plus. Thanks DA. Hope you watched the videos.
LC. out.

Wife had both knees replaced. She rode before with pain but wasn't bad if the seat was high. I don't think they make a seat post tall enough for you to be comfortable, on a 20 or 24" bike. Your knees must be almost in you chin on such a small bike.

It's good to know that you believe in a Dr. more than yourself :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

Use balance function to bleed down 4.10V cell before balance charging!

I am skeptical of battery quality ... based solely on delivered voltages.
Budget high output liPo are often built with little to no quality control >> designed for brief surge output with very short usable lifespans.
Compare to quality high capacity low C LiPo. Dell 3s2p packs setting 3 years were all still of equal voltage within < 1/100th V.

Make sure you test, as I previously detailed, before any use!

 

[latecurtis]

Not sure how to do a single cell. I know you said it is possible. I remember that much. I could just set the balancer for 3.7V and then balance charge them all afterwards. The good news is the 4.1V cell is not the one that was low. The low one is 3.90V. The third one down from the top on the 23.6V pack. I want to get the rack finished and the new cash boxes before messing with them just in case there is a puffed pack. Are you saying they might not last much longer than SLAs or they just are not as good as HK LIPO.

I will extend the seat post any way I can if I have to get a larger diameter post to slide over the stock one and run a bolt thru it. I will definitely need to do that with the 18" bike so I can pedal a little if I see a cop.

Any ideas on how to set up the friction drives for those little motors would be great. I wish we did not live so far apart. I wish three of us DAN, DA and me could get together once in awhile and work on e bike projects. I know the ol ladys son lives around the Medina OH. area. Actually he is my age. About 51 I think. He was looking at the Magna when he was here after Christmas and sizing it up for a motor in the back.

He knows where there is camp sites and the Cleveland OH. area is closer to DA and DAN. I am good for a road trip this summer. We would both love to get out of upstate NY. for a week or so. It is just an idea but would be really cool. Could probably build our own version of a Death bike if we made it an annual event.

Let me know guys. Also any parts to put together those friction drives would be great. I am still hoping to get the red bike up and running this week. I would like to build some kind of rack for the SLAs to slide in and out so I can have a cargo basket on the back. Please post when you can. Thanks.

Your friend LC.

 

[DrkAngel]

Ok. Thanks for watching. The positive side is it slows down going down hills. My brakes are shitty and it don't look like they are getting upgraded any time soon.

No need to upgrade your brakes!

You need to:
1. true your wheel
2. adjust your brakes

 

[DrkAngel]

Not sure how to do a single cell. I know you said it is possible. I remember that much. I could just set the balancer for 3.7V and then balance charge them all afterwards. The good news is the 4.1V cell is not the one that was low. The low one is 3.90V. The third one down from the top on the 23.6V pack. I want to get the rack finished and the new cash boxes before messing with them just in case there is a puffed pack. Are you saying they might not last much longer than SLAs or they just are not as good as HK LIPO.

I'm saying,delivering cells with such a voltage disparity indicates an unconscionable lack of quality control ...
Makes me suspicious of them being repackaged rejects from some more reputable source?

Test packs as I documented to determine if even usable.
Each pack will only have the usable capacity of the poorest cell.
Each pack had at least 1 cell of drastically different voltage ... condition?
1 severely low capacity cell will bottom out and is liable to flame during normal discharge ... !!!
LVC not functional on 36V controller w/44.4V battery.

Use Voltage - Alarm meters during discharge!!!

 

[latecurtis]

Test packs as I documented to determine if even usable.
Each pack will only have the usable capacity of the poorest cell.
Each pack had at least 1 cell of drastically different voltage ... condition?
1 severely low capacity cell will bottom out and is liable to flame during normal discharge ... !!!
LVC not functional on 36V controller w/44.4V battery.

Controller is 48V. The LVC would not allow full throttle with the old 44V LIPO packs. Once I get the Triangle rack built the new LIPOs in question will be safe for indoor charging. The small sentry cash boxes in the pic. I took at Wall-Mart. The LIPO bags will go inside the small metal boxes. A hole will be drilled in the boxes large enough for the power wires to come out to the power bolts and a balance extender for each pack on either side of the triangle rack.

After that all safety issues will be covered as only a little smoke can come out of the hole if one of the packs do turn into a fireball. I can simply stick it in the bike closet and close the door and plug in my air purifier outside the door and run it for awhile. :lol: Also open a window or two.

My plan is to balance discharge the packs one at a time to 3.7V then LILO balance each pack back to 4.1V and repeat as necessary to try to get all cells in each pack as close as possible. The reason I do not want to LIPO charge them to 4.2V is if there is a puffy or defective cell in one of the packs it could start the fire.

Kind of like a balloon for example. If you suspect a small or minor defect in the rubber material in the balloon than if you intend on using that balloon why would you fill it to the maximum capacity and take a chance on it popping if you could fill it to say 90 percent capacity and maybe use it for many birthday parties as there is less of a chance in it breaking.

Since I cant change the quality control of the company who manufactured the LIPOs I can control how I charge and use them. The time limit is up to return them so I am simply doing everything I can to try and get my moneys worth out of them. I will however attempt to run them at full throttle however will use the LIPO alarms you guys recommended so I don't run them low. Full throttle is the final test to see if the LIPOs are of decent quality as if they are used recycled packs it will trigger the LVC. The first test obviously is how close I can get the cell voltages after running the balancer and recharging with the LILO balance feature a few times.

Again thanks for posting. I might be going downtown Friday. Not sure what bike I will be taking but plan on another video to measure the performance on that hill downtown. It is a moderate size hill. 1/4 mile or less and not really steep. I will let you guys be the judge of that. Hopefully it will not rain that day. My friend got his power back on today. He will be meeting me at City Hall to sign papers as my friend there at the disability services needs to get paid for his help in that matter. They are a State and Federally funded organization.

It is too late to drill now and am not sure I will be using those old brackets to mount the 500W motor on the red bike. I may go tomorrow and get new flat steel brackets and a couple of heavy duty drill bits. Hopefully I will get up in time. I was up at 3pm Monday and 2PM yesterday but stayed up until about 9AM this morning and slept until almost 6PM today. I got to start going to bed before daylight. It is a very bad habit to get into. Thanks again.

Your friend LC.

 

[DrkAngel]

Too much uninformed reasoning to debate ...

Balance cells at full, let cells set a few days then measure for self discharge.
Then discharge once, compare cell voltages to each other.

If no self-discharge and cells are equal at full and empty ... then everything good.

Worst LVC malfunction is likely due to 5A alligator clips. Trying to draw 40A through 5A clips will drop voltage drastically - causing premature LVC fault.
Confirm with separate connection directly from battery to volt meter.

 

[latecurtis]

Basically That would be better than alligator clips. Cant plug them in wrong as one prong is larger than the other. Also 14 gauge heavy duty wire. I would need to build a cable for charging but seems like it would work better than alligator clips and the power bolts in the triangle rack.

I would like to hook up something similar for when I run the six SLAs for 24V and 30AH for the red bike. Better than Andersons or the XT90 plugs. Rated for at least 1500W.

I always wondered why AC plugs have one larger prong than the other as the polarity don't make a bit of difference with AC current but makes a huge difference in DC

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

15A rated plugs and 14ga wire not ideal for 40A controller.

You really need to get over your fear of proper connectors and soldering!

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment solder_wires.bmpView attachment 1View attachment s-l1600.bmpView attachment Lot-10-Female-T-Plug-to-4MM-Bullet-Plug-4-0mm-Banana-Plug-Connector-Adapter-with.bmp



One thing I like about bullet connectors. Easy to seperate them, then plug one in at a time. I may do that instead. bottom picture.

I Still got to figure out something for the SLAs though to get rid of the alligater clips. second picture down from the top.

XT90 male to bullet cables are what I am looking for to plug into the new LIPO packs. Above the bottom picture. I should be able to solder two wires together easier than attempting to solder the wires to the connectors. top picture.

One of the reasons why I waited to finish the triangle rack. I will be doing something similar for the SLAs to run 24V@30AH.

For the new LIPOs the third picture down from the top shows what I need only that is an XT60 and I need an XT90. I cant seem to find xt90s.

I will split the bullets as shown and one series cable will have a resister for the pre hook up and the second one wont. The power bolts I wont need. Also I can solder bullet connectors to the terminals on the SLAs. Then put togeather run and charge cables. Wont need pre hook up with the SLAs.

I would like to be able to charge all six SLAs in parallel at 6A instead of three at a time when I run 24V@30AH. There is no Y cable for that so I may have to build one. Anything I build however will already have plugs on it I will only need to solder two wires together. Lets face it guys my soldering skills wont improve overnight so soldering wires togeather which already have plugs on them will work much better for me and I can eliminate alligater clips all together. Those clips are dangerous as there always is a chance one could come off and cause a dead short

This is why I am taking my time on these builds. I simply wanted to test the 24" bike so I used the old LIPOs as they were already set up. The red bike will take lots of work as I wand to build a triangle rack that will allow me to slide the SLAs in and out for running and charging in my hallway.

Also the triangle rack for the new LIPOs I want to be able to unhook each cash box on each side then hook them up in parallel and charge both packs in the window at the same time. Basically it will take further design but am sure that I no longer wish to use alligator clips for running or charging anything and am removing the power bolts from the triangle rack for the 24" bike as plugging in bullet connectors one at a time is basically the same thing and just as safe. I realize that now.

I only hated bullet connectors when they are together and when I got those big sparks and melted a couple of connectors. That was before I balanced all the packs as there was a considerable voltage difference between them back then. I realize that now. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 24V@30AH.bmp


The other one was for 36V@20AH. This is for 24V@30AH which I will need for the red bike. It requires soldering three wires togeather 4 times which should not be much harder than two wires. It will still be simple to build a parallel charging cable for all six SLAs also. Please post when you can and thanks for putting me back on the right track. This will work even better than AC plugs.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Oops! ... ?

Now you might have the capability for some really damaging discharge rates ...

LiPo with 44.4V/48V controller should be OK but with 44.4V/36V brushless controller, could be easily destroyed - use Meter-Low Voltage Alarms!

SLA will be the real danger!
Stop discharge before eBike starts to slow down! You kill the batteries squeezing the last pitiful bits of energy out of them!!!

Instead of draining the last bit of energy from the battery ... then pedaling ....
Try lightly pedaling constantly during discharge ... (10-20% effort 100% of the time has got to be less stressful-damaging than 100% effort 10-20% of the time ... ?)
Better for range
Better for battery
Better for you - (Heart, lungs, knee etc) !

 

[latecurtis]

LiPo with 44.4V/48V controller should be OK but with 44.4V/36V brushless controller could be easily destroyed - use Meter-Low Voltage Alarms!

SLA will be the real danger!

Schwinn is 36 to 48V I think.


Really not sure what you said?

24" bike I did video with is 48V controller not 36.

Red bike getting variable controller 12 to 52V I think. The one with the built in pot but running the six SLAs @24V. No 36V. Please explain. Should be working on motor for that soon. Thanks. Got a hole needs plug. :lol: Please let me know 4 tomorrow. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Brakes are for sissies.

Ummm ...I think you mean "no brakes are for making sissies" ... as to what happens when you hit something at full speed and you become de-equipped as your groin passes the steering post.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 1


The smaller cashbox looks better even though I pounded down the center part so it would close better without putting pressure on the packs.
What I need now is the plugs. What is the difference between XT90s and XT60s. They look the same. I need XT90 to 4mm bullet if I can get them. I already have balance extensions. I will do a diagram showing what I intend to do.

Had the ol lady hold it awhile I took a picture. I need to put something over the banged up part. Mabye a sticker or something really cool. I will let you guys decide what should go there to cover the banged up part. That would be kind of cool.

Basically I will need the XT90 to bullet if possible. What type of bullet is best. I will use any as long as I can split them like the pic I posted yesterday. I will need a series connection with my resisters for pre hook up and a series wire to run. I will be removing the alligator clips from the wires coming from the controller and replacing them with bullet connectors. , hooking positive and negative seperatly using the pre hook up wire before each connection just like I do with the alligator clips. then hitting the power switch before running the bike.

For charging I always turn the charger on first then plug in the balance extension. I then hook up negative to the pack then plug into the charger. Then positive and sometimes get a little spark but nothing major. I can basically do the exact thing with bullet connectors as they can be split. Please let me know if there is XT90 to 4mm bullet cables. I want to get this done soon. I am looking for two or three day shipping if possible. I have $30 in the bank to cover the order. Please post a link if you can.

I will be back later as I am going downtown to hang out with my friend as his power is back on now. I am thinking about taking the 24" bike and running four SLAs. I will bring my camera as I want to do a short video coming up that hill on the way back. There is enough light downtown for that but most of the way down there is too dark for a video. Mabye a few places I can turn on the camera for a short time. 48 * 10AH is 480W so I don' t plan on going over 20mph. About 10 to 15mph should be good. I dont like running four SLAs but I did not charge the LIPOs and doubt they will go up the hill without the LVC cutting off. Thanks.

LC. out.