latecurtis
100 MW
I will have to research them. Maybe I would like them too.
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
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Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
I think BMSes are good for two things:
1. Cheap cells that are hard to balance.
2. Batteries you give to someone whom you can't trust to not run flat, and who you can't trust to balance.
I did (1.) for these Zippys. I got a12S BMS for the Multistars, because I'm giving them to a friend who knows nothing about eBikes. Converted him from a petrol stinker. (Well, actually police converted him, because he got pulled over too many times for riding one illegally).
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/44V-48V-50-4V-12S-30A-Lithium-ion-Li-ion-LiPo-Li-Polymer-Battery-BMS-PCB-System-/221274094989?hash=item3384f6bd8d:g:30UAAOxy-NVSEdSO
I will need a 44V or 12s Lipo charger. I got two 6s chargers. also how do balance plugs hook into that?
I will need a 44V or 12s Lipo charger. I got two 6s chargers. also how do balance plugs hook into that?
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
That's the 12S one I got. It's a bit awkward, because it only taps into 11 cells, with the 12th being tapped by the negative lead.
Nothing wrong with that if you're doing all your wiring from scratch, but if you had bought a whole lot of JST-XH 12S connectors (like yours truly), so that you could easily move the BMS between sets of batteries, you'd be pretty pissed.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.batterysupports.com/432v-44v-504v-4a-lithium-ion-lipo-battery-charger-12s-12x-36v-p-167.html
I likeE.
How would bullet connectors hook up to that though?
Also how do the balance plugs hook up to the BMS. Hooked up all the time for run and charge. I can appreciate that. less unplugging and plugging in. I need to understand how it will work with bullet plugs and balance plugs though. What adapters are needed.
I likeE.
How would bullet connectors hook up to that though?
Also how do the balance plugs hook up to the BMS. Hooked up all the time for run and charge. I can appreciate that. less unplugging and plugging in. I need to understand how it will work with bullet plugs and balance plugs though. What adapters are needed.
Sunder
10 MW
You'd need to make an adapter, or cut the plug and replace with Bullet connectors.
latecurtis
100 MW
OK. I may do that when I do the 24" build. Two 10.0 6s packs when I order the second. I got one now. It needs custom brakes though but look forward to the challenge. The 65T spoke from Kings though is kind of on a back burner for awhile.
My 20" bike with the flat needs to get fixed and I can ride that. I can also dig out Dans old packs for the Schwinn for short runs. I am only 1/2 the distance from Wall-Mart Hannaford Plaza as I was before. Maybe 3/4 of a mile instead of 1.3 miles. They would be perfect for that.
I also got the 48V 10Ah SLAs for the Dimond Back and 850W hub motor. The terminal connectors broke off and alligator clips failed miserably several times on the 48V 10AH SLA pack but will upgrade to bullets when I find my soldering iron. A proper 48V charger would also be easier than parallel charging four SLAs.
I can take the 20" with the 22.2V 16s pack for downtown runs or the Dimond Back. It would make sense to get a 48V charger good for 44.4V Lipo also. Do they make one? Then when I order the other 10.0 6s LiPo all I will need is that BMS.
I dont see me spending any money on e bikes for awhile. The car has been starting also but I wont shut it off and leave it running until I get back home and in a parking spot. I am not getting stranded with that antitheft bullshit.
I will be setting up a charging station soon and a e bike work area. I got three running bikes to ride so it will be awhile before I will need any of that but I have learned about it. I still will need to learn more about the balance connectors. I can easily replace the power wires with 4.5mm bullets. Thanks. Do they make a charger around $50 that can charge 12s LiPo and 48V SLA? Please let me know.
LC out.
My 20" bike with the flat needs to get fixed and I can ride that. I can also dig out Dans old packs for the Schwinn for short runs. I am only 1/2 the distance from Wall-Mart Hannaford Plaza as I was before. Maybe 3/4 of a mile instead of 1.3 miles. They would be perfect for that.
I also got the 48V 10Ah SLAs for the Dimond Back and 850W hub motor. The terminal connectors broke off and alligator clips failed miserably several times on the 48V 10AH SLA pack but will upgrade to bullets when I find my soldering iron. A proper 48V charger would also be easier than parallel charging four SLAs.
I can take the 20" with the 22.2V 16s pack for downtown runs or the Dimond Back. It would make sense to get a 48V charger good for 44.4V Lipo also. Do they make one? Then when I order the other 10.0 6s LiPo all I will need is that BMS.
I dont see me spending any money on e bikes for awhile. The car has been starting also but I wont shut it off and leave it running until I get back home and in a parking spot. I am not getting stranded with that antitheft bullshit.
I will be setting up a charging station soon and a e bike work area. I got three running bikes to ride so it will be awhile before I will need any of that but I have learned about it. I still will need to learn more about the balance connectors. I can easily replace the power wires with 4.5mm bullets. Thanks. Do they make a charger around $50 that can charge 12s LiPo and 48V SLA? Please let me know.
LC out.
DAND214
10 MW
LC please get it right. You don't have 16s. You have 6s 16AH, 16s is 59.2 volts, not 22.2v
22.2v at 16,000 mah. very confusing when it comes to charger, controller and even more important is a BMS. Don't try one, please.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
12s LiPo charger is 50.4V
Bulk charger with BMS is best bet ... for you.
You only have to hook it up once ... but do it properly - while sober!!!
≤5A charger for 10Ah battery
48V SLA requires a multi-stage ~57.6V >> ~52.4 >> ~51.2V charger ()Voltages are rough approximations)
48V SLA 3-stage charger at max Amps = 12.5% of rated Ah.
≤1.25A charger for 10Ah battery
≤1.50A charger for 12Ah battery
≤2.25A charger for 18Ah battery
Bulk charger with BMS is best bet ... for you.
You only have to hook it up once ... but do it properly - while sober!!!
≤5A charger for 10Ah battery
48V SLA requires a multi-stage ~57.6V >> ~52.4 >> ~51.2V charger ()Voltages are rough approximations)
48V SLA 3-stage charger at max Amps = 12.5% of rated Ah.
≤1.25A charger for 10Ah battery
≤1.50A charger for 12Ah battery
≤2.25A charger for 18Ah battery
latecurtis
100 MW
Good to hear from you guys. I have now learned what a BMS is. Hooking it up is another story. Lots of balance plugs and bullets to deal with. I would like to see a video showing how it is done.
I am not sure when I will be investing in any more e bike projects as I am now driving a gas vehicle and my rent is $100 more each month but I do look forward to setting up an e bike work and charging area here. I also need to change my address and then maybe next month can order the 65T spoke kit from Kings Custom sprockets. I will then have my first 30 mph bike.
I am pretty sure the fastest so far for me on an e bike is around 25 mph. that sprocket and a speedo is all I will need to order next month and I will have four running e bikes.
I am also wondering if the Currie would be capable of running a 1,500W rear hub kit at 66.6V and 2+ kilowatts. If not I can look for a stronger frame with dual suspension. However that Currie is a really strong tough bike. I rode it for about two years. I would really like to see a video about the BMS and an opinion on the Currie at 2+ kilowatts. Thanks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Genesis-Saber-Mens-Mountain-Bike-with-Full-Suspension-Steel-Blue-NEW-/152078480356?hash=item23689573e4:g:O9cAAOSw5HJXKeqn
How does that bike compare to the Currie for a 2+ killowatt rear hub motor? The Currie is not set up for disk I know that and the only bike at Wall-Mart that really catches my eye is the V 2100 and this is a step up from that. Thanks.
LC. out.
I am not sure when I will be investing in any more e bike projects as I am now driving a gas vehicle and my rent is $100 more each month but I do look forward to setting up an e bike work and charging area here. I also need to change my address and then maybe next month can order the 65T spoke kit from Kings Custom sprockets. I will then have my first 30 mph bike.
I am pretty sure the fastest so far for me on an e bike is around 25 mph. that sprocket and a speedo is all I will need to order next month and I will have four running e bikes.
I am also wondering if the Currie would be capable of running a 1,500W rear hub kit at 66.6V and 2+ kilowatts. If not I can look for a stronger frame with dual suspension. However that Currie is a really strong tough bike. I rode it for about two years. I would really like to see a video about the BMS and an opinion on the Currie at 2+ kilowatts. Thanks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Genesis-Saber-Mens-Mountain-Bike-with-Full-Suspension-Steel-Blue-NEW-/152078480356?hash=item23689573e4:g:O9cAAOSw5HJXKeqn
How does that bike compare to the Currie for a 2+ killowatt rear hub motor? The Currie is not set up for disk I know that and the only bike at Wall-Mart that really catches my eye is the V 2100 and this is a step up from that. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=BMS+batterylatecurtis said:
Sunder
10 MW
Its pretty easy.
Battery positive to load positive
Battery negative to BMS input
BMS output to load negative
If you get a BMS with one more wire than cells:
Sense wire 0 to battery negative
Sense wire 1 to cell 1 negative
Sense wire 2 to cell 2 negative
.
.
.
Last sense wire to battery positive.
If you get one of the types where you have the same number of sense wires as cells, then skip the battery negative.
Battery positive to load positive
Battery negative to BMS input
BMS output to load negative
If you get a BMS with one more wire than cells:
Sense wire 0 to battery negative
Sense wire 1 to cell 1 negative
Sense wire 2 to cell 2 negative
.
.
.
Last sense wire to battery positive.
If you get one of the types where you have the same number of sense wires as cells, then skip the battery negative.
latecurtis
100 MW
Where do all the balance plugs go. Say three packs in series for 66.6V. only two wires power. 66.6V- and 66.6V+
Three balance pluge need to plug in the BMS.
Also I will require a 18S LiPo charger which I don't even know if they make.
My current set up running 22.2V LiPo is simply plug and play for charging and running. A BMS would be useless.
With two 6s chargers and balancers running and charging 44.4V is a piece of cake when I set up my charging station.
I will check for 18s chargers and what type of BMS would be needed for 66.6V LiPo.
My 40+ mph bike wil be a 48V rear hub motor run with 66.6V LiPo three 10.0 packs to be exact. Please let me know.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-72V-2-5A-10ah-Lithium-Battery-Charger-Lifepo4-Li-ion-Ebike-Scooter-/221573794572?hash=item3396d3cb0c:g
~EAAOSwTapV6BSZ
http://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-84V-20S-30A-20x-3-6V-3-7V-4-2V-Lithium-ion-Li-ion-Li-Po-Battery-PCB-BMS-/321745436164?hash=item4ae985be04:g:8QsAAOSwPcJVRyZV
Let me know if those will work for the 40 mph build. That is if I ever do get around to building it. Also what type of bike (if any) under $300 which can hold up to 2 + killowatts and approx. 40 mph from a rear hub motor.
Thanks. LC out.
Three balance pluge need to plug in the BMS.
Also I will require a 18S LiPo charger which I don't even know if they make.
My current set up running 22.2V LiPo is simply plug and play for charging and running. A BMS would be useless.
With two 6s chargers and balancers running and charging 44.4V is a piece of cake when I set up my charging station.
I will check for 18s chargers and what type of BMS would be needed for 66.6V LiPo.
My 40+ mph bike wil be a 48V rear hub motor run with 66.6V LiPo three 10.0 packs to be exact. Please let me know.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-72V-2-5A-10ah-Lithium-Battery-Charger-Lifepo4-Li-ion-Ebike-Scooter-/221573794572?hash=item3396d3cb0c:g
~EAAOSwTapV6BSZhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-84V-20S-30A-20x-3-6V-3-7V-4-2V-Lithium-ion-Li-ion-Li-Po-Battery-PCB-BMS-/321745436164?hash=item4ae985be04:g:8QsAAOSwPcJVRyZV
Let me know if those will work for the 40 mph build. That is if I ever do get around to building it. Also what type of bike (if any) under $300 which can hold up to 2 + killowatts and approx. 40 mph from a rear hub motor.
Thanks. LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:Where do all the balance plugs go. Say three packs in series for 66.6V. only two wires power. 66.6V- and 66.6V+
Three balance pluge need to plug in the BMS.
Also I will require a 18S LiPo charger which I don't even know if they make.
My current set up running 22.2V LiPo is simply plug and play for charging and running. A BMS would be useless.
With two 6s chargers and balancers running and charging 44.4V is a piece of cake when I set up my charging station.
I will check for 18s chargers and what type of BMS would be needed for 66.6V LiPo.
My 40+ mph bike wil be a 48V rear hub motor run with 66.6V LiPo three 10.0 packs to be exact. Please let me know.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-72V-2-5A-10ah-Lithium-Battery-Charger-Lifepo4-Li-ion-Ebike-Scooter-/221573794572?hash=item3396d3cb0c:g
http://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-84V-20S-30A-20x-3-6V-3-7V-4-2V-Lithium-ion-Li-ion-Li-Po-Battery-PCB-BMS-/321745436164?hash=item4ae985be04:g:8QsAAOSwPcJVRyZV
Let me know if those will work for the 40 mph build. That is if I ever do get around to building it. Also what type of bike (if any) under $300 which can hold up to 2 + killowatts and approx. 40 mph from a rear hub motor.
Thanks. LC out.
It's dangerous, but you could just use any DC source above your final voltage. Your BMS should cut off charging when your pack reaches full. Dangerous for two reasons. First, if you don't hook it up correctly, you could set fire to your pack. E.g. If you charge through the discharge port, you will still recharge - but there is no safety cut off. Secondly, if the BMS fails for any reason, same deal. Fire.
I'd recommend against it, but there you go... As many safeties as possible, especially since you seem to work on your eBikes drunk sometimes.
When I said sense wires, you can substitute in balance wires. Same thing - One wire to each cell so it can detect the differences in voltage for the pack.
DrkAngel
1 GW
LC, you demand exactly how to do things ...
but then scoff and hem and haw until you finally understand about it!
I recommend you watch the videos until you learn about the basic functions then consolidate the knowledge into your acceptable - workable format.
Telling you how to do things does not work!
Telling and telling and telling finally works ... sometimes ...
Example - After 1st warning and dozens of repeated urging and warnings it was still years and 100+ pages before you finally installed you 1st fuse.
Sobriety might help?
but then scoff and hem and haw until you finally understand about it!
I recommend you watch the videos until you learn about the basic functions then consolidate the knowledge into your acceptable - workable format.
Telling you how to do things does not work!
Telling and telling and telling finally works ... sometimes ...
Example - After 1st warning and dozens of repeated urging and warnings it was still years and 100+ pages before you finally installed you 1st fuse.
Sobriety might help?
latecurtis
100 MW
The BMS I posted and the 18s charger I found with little searching on e bay.
If there is a better choice that WILL hook up right and do the job with BETTER safety features and possible easier to hook up then by all means please post it.
It will be awhile anyway before I build it so there is plenty of time to choose a GOOD BMS and proper 18S charger.
It is not something I will need to hem and haw about and I assure you I will be sober when I hook it up.
The other option is to get an 18S charger that bulk charges at a rate slow enough that three balancers can balance the packs evenly awhile charging. If you think that is even possible than let me know. the diagram would not post but you can click on it. Please let me know if it would work. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
The problem with that is that the 3 chargers don't communicate with each other. So what if one pack was balanced all low. Let's just say it has a weak cell, and over time, 6 of those cells balanced to 3.8v, while the others were fully charged?
3.8 x 6 = 22.8v
4.2 x 12 = 50.4
Total = 73.2
Charger wants to reach 75.6v = 2.4v over
That means 12 cells will hit 4.33v before the charger stops. Not quite fire territory, but leave it like that for a few weeks, and say goodbye to your pack.
Either balance fully regularly, or get a BMS.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RadioLink-1-6S-6A-8-port-Balance-Charger-CB86-PLUS-For-RC-Lipo-Battery-/252076455184?hash=item3ab0ed7510:g:7RUAAOSwgQ9V5XZH
just found that. I know Hobby king had one cheaper.
No go HK but googled for awhile and came up with this.
http://www.buddyrc.com/sky-rc-imax-quattro-b6.html
Should work better than a BMS and more simple if someone like me could figure it out.
I still don't know how to reset the 120 min time limit on the Skycharger.
The Mega charger Dan sent I only charged SLA with.
You have to unhook the controller to charge. Are you able to leave the BMS hooked up while running the bike?
That is the only reason to hook one up. Plug and play.
just found that. I know Hobby king had one cheaper.
No go HK but googled for awhile and came up with this.
http://www.buddyrc.com/sky-rc-imax-quattro-b6.html
Should work better than a BMS and more simple if someone like me could figure it out.
I still don't know how to reset the 120 min time limit on the Skycharger.
The Mega charger Dan sent I only charged SLA with.
You have to unhook the controller to charge. Are you able to leave the BMS hooked up while running the bike?
That is the only reason to hook one up. Plug and play.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 22.2V for 35 mph.
48V, 60V and 72V all are done as greater voltage = higher speed and more power.
charging gets more complicated especially when dealing with LiPo in series.
35 mph with 22.2V LiPo. How?
I ran dual motors on the front of a 20" bike in series with a 36V controller two 24V motors in series and put about 7 miles on the bike before unhooking the motors. The sprockets were not lined up and the #25 chain was bent but I still got 10 mph and 3/4 throttle out of it.
I have been told many times that a front motor is dangerous but dual motors on the rear should be much safer. They will need to be in series with a 2,000W 48V controller unless it is possible to run two 1,000W 24V controllers with a single thumb throttle. 5S LiPo for 33V would be good for 40 mph easily but the two 24V controllers would need 34V caps or a 72V brushed controller that can run 66.6V LiPo and wire the motors in series.
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html
https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-electric-motor-11-tooth-chain-sprocket.html
A 60T spoke kit will gear the Currie for 37 mph if an 11T bike sprocket will go on the motors.
Power output for 35 mph is 1,500W I think so even at 22.2V I should get 1700+ watts so that is how I came up with 37 mph gearing. 8S LiPo would push it past 40 mph easily.
Thanks.
LC. out.
48V, 60V and 72V all are done as greater voltage = higher speed and more power.
charging gets more complicated especially when dealing with LiPo in series.
35 mph with 22.2V LiPo. How?
I ran dual motors on the front of a 20" bike in series with a 36V controller two 24V motors in series and put about 7 miles on the bike before unhooking the motors. The sprockets were not lined up and the #25 chain was bent but I still got 10 mph and 3/4 throttle out of it.
I have been told many times that a front motor is dangerous but dual motors on the rear should be much safer. They will need to be in series with a 2,000W 48V controller unless it is possible to run two 1,000W 24V controllers with a single thumb throttle. 5S LiPo for 33V would be good for 40 mph easily but the two 24V controllers would need 34V caps or a 72V brushed controller that can run 66.6V LiPo and wire the motors in series.
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html
https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-electric-motor-11-tooth-chain-sprocket.html
A 60T spoke kit will gear the Currie for 37 mph if an 11T bike sprocket will go on the motors.
Power output for 35 mph is 1,500W I think so even at 22.2V I should get 1700+ watts so that is how I came up with 37 mph gearing. 8S LiPo would push it past 40 mph easily.
Thanks.LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
With one of these:
latecurtis said:
In series?
That should be an interesting set up. I guess nothing stopping that on brushless, but gee, what happens if one of the motors burns out? You're still confused. 5S Lipo = 18.5v nominal or 21v max.
S = cells in Series
Ah = Size of battery. So if you mean 5Ah Lipo @ 33v, would be 9s LiPo.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZIPPY-Compact-5000mAh-8S-25C-Lipo-Pack-/282049585099?hash=item41ab771fcb:g:RgkAAOSwkZhWTv0h
4.2V * 8 = 33.6V
8S full charge.
motor = 900W@24V * 2 = 1,800W
At 22.2V approx 1,700W
At 33.3V approx
900 /4 = 225. At 30V 900 + 225 = 1125W * 2 = 2,250W = 40 mph.
The thing is on page 74 I think I pulled off the dual motor setup. I ran in series but it would be easier and only require a single high discharge LiPo pack to power the controllers with a single thumb throttle.
Best suited for two 24V 1killowatt controllers hooked up to same 8S or 6S pack with single thumb throttle. 8S Only for racing applications as they are pricey and large AH packs unavailable at reasonable prices. 6S pack 16.0 or higher for normal operations. Controllers must be suited for both. I cant say it now but if I ever were to pull it off it would make me a genius :lol: . Thanks again.
LC. out.
4.2V * 8 = 33.6V
8S full charge.
motor = 900W@24V * 2 = 1,800W
At 22.2V approx 1,700W
At 33.3V approx
900 /4 = 225. At 30V 900 + 225 = 1125W * 2 = 2,250W = 40 mph.
The thing is on page 74 I think I pulled off the dual motor setup. I ran in series but it would be easier and only require a single high discharge LiPo pack to power the controllers with a single thumb throttle.
Best suited for two 24V 1killowatt controllers hooked up to same 8S or 6S pack with single thumb throttle. 8S Only for racing applications as they are pricey and large AH packs unavailable at reasonable prices. 6S pack 16.0 or higher for normal operations. Controllers must be suited for both. I cant say it now but if I ever were to pull it off it would make me a genius :lol: . Thanks again.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Very strange way of doing maths. The more traditional way is:
900w ÷ 24v = 37.5A
Power at any voltage = 37.5A x Voltage.
In the case of 33.3v = 1248.75w. Running two would make it 2497.5w
If you're drawing two motors of that size from a single controller and battery, you'd be looking at 75A. You're gonna need some seriously big packs to deliver that kind of current with no sag. At 10Ah, you'd be drawing 7.5C. While many of the 25C packs will do that, it will only be for a few cycles. You really need the graphene/nanotech style packs which claim 50-80C, to get a long life out of a 7.5C draw. The cables will look like they can hold up bridges too.
Also, just as a note, it's more traditional to quote the battery nominal voltage, not the peak voltage. E.g. Hobbyking lists 8S as 29.6v: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55805__Multistar_High_Capacity_Lightweight_8S_12000mAh_2C_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html
This also means that after the first couple kilometers (Depending on pack size), you'll only be putting out 1110w
900w ÷ 24v = 37.5A
Power at any voltage = 37.5A x Voltage.
In the case of 33.3v = 1248.75w. Running two would make it 2497.5w
If you're drawing two motors of that size from a single controller and battery, you'd be looking at 75A. You're gonna need some seriously big packs to deliver that kind of current with no sag. At 10Ah, you'd be drawing 7.5C. While many of the 25C packs will do that, it will only be for a few cycles. You really need the graphene/nanotech style packs which claim 50-80C, to get a long life out of a 7.5C draw. The cables will look like they can hold up bridges too.
Also, just as a note, it's more traditional to quote the battery nominal voltage, not the peak voltage. E.g. Hobbyking lists 8S as 29.6v: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__55805__Multistar_High_Capacity_Lightweight_8S_12000mAh_2C_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html
This also means that after the first couple kilometers (Depending on pack size), you'll only be putting out 1110w
latecurtis
100 MW
If a single throttle will work for two controllers it gives me two choices neither which require oversize cables.
Two separate 10.0 LiPo packs should work one for each motor. I already have one.
1. Both motors on the back with a single 60T spoke kit.
2. One motor on the rear and the second on the front for all wheel drive requiring two 60T spoke kits.
The Currie should work but it definitely needs a paint job. :lol:
I know that hooking two motors in series to one controller works with a single wheel sprocket however never attempted to hook two motors with two controllers to a single wheel sprocket so not only all wheel drive will definitely work but the bike should handle better and have better traction just like an all wheel drive car. Thanks.
LC. out.
DAND214
10 MW
All I can say is, Stubborn
I sure hope you don't expect to convert a car to 24v and see any speed out of it.
VOLTAGE is the way to do it right! Yeah you might get some speed out of low voltage but as Sunder said, you will need some heavy cables to do it. No stinkin gator clips either.
As I have said before, YOU will do what ever you think works. No reason to listen to others that have done and failed. Waste the money and have fun! That is all this is about, isn't it?
You want to go fast? Get a ZERO and throw the other stuff in the junk. You are wasting all your money on things that will not be used more than a few times before they break or burn up.
You have asked for help and keep doing opposite of what has been handed you. Why not throw out the junk and do it right. No crazy chain drive at this low level of performance. If your gonna use chain use something like LFP does. That is a chain drive that I would like to use. Not the kids stuff you are playing with.
So, is the Little Diamondback still running? Haven't seen any videos of it yet or did I miss it?
I write this I think, WHY?
Dan
I sure hope you don't expect to convert a car to 24v and see any speed out of it.
VOLTAGE is the way to do it right! Yeah you might get some speed out of low voltage but as Sunder said, you will need some heavy cables to do it. No stinkin gator clips either.
As I have said before, YOU will do what ever you think works. No reason to listen to others that have done and failed. Waste the money and have fun! That is all this is about, isn't it?
You want to go fast? Get a ZERO and throw the other stuff in the junk. You are wasting all your money on things that will not be used more than a few times before they break or burn up.
You have asked for help and keep doing opposite of what has been handed you. Why not throw out the junk and do it right. No crazy chain drive at this low level of performance. If your gonna use chain use something like LFP does. That is a chain drive that I would like to use. Not the kids stuff you are playing with.
So, is the Little Diamondback still running? Haven't seen any videos of it yet or did I miss it?
I write this I think, WHY?
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
Still unpacking. Have not found my camera yet. I still need to set up a charging area. LiPos are still in the dryer downstairs out by the old garage I guess.
Probably wont do dual motors for the Currie anyway. I still need a 65 tooth spoke kit for proper gearing with the 24" bike with the 20" wheels. 48V and 30 mph. That needs to happen first.
The 900W 24V kit would be neat for the Currie and geared for about 26 mph for cargo. it makes more sense. A single 10.0 6S LiPo pack would be good for short two mile round trips to the grocery store and laundromat if I don't want to use the car or I take it off the road.
Mr. Turtle is a male and I just got two female southern painted turtles from a pet store for $40. Mr Turtle wasted no time getting busy. Already did both of them. The guy at the pet store said he will buy the baby turtles. :lol: Thanks.
LC. out.
Probably wont do dual motors for the Currie anyway. I still need a 65 tooth spoke kit for proper gearing with the 24" bike with the 20" wheels. 48V and 30 mph. That needs to happen first.
The 900W 24V kit would be neat for the Currie and geared for about 26 mph for cargo. it makes more sense. A single 10.0 6S LiPo pack would be good for short two mile round trips to the grocery store and laundromat if I don't want to use the car or I take it off the road.
Mr. Turtle is a male and I just got two female southern painted turtles from a pet store for $40. Mr Turtle wasted no time getting busy. Already did both of them. The guy at the pet store said he will buy the baby turtles. :lol: Thanks.
LC. out.
- Status
