latecurtis
100 MW
I got that offline but that picture of the balance plug that looked like mine WAS 0.3V from each other each pack and still did THAT.
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
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I got that offline but that picture of the balance plug that looked like mine WAS 0.3V from each other each pack and still did THAT.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Getting that ich.most anyone who ever rode a motorbike of any kind will miss it after not riding awhile.
There usually is no exceptions with e bikes. It has been on my mind lately. I changed the front tire on to that good 24" rim I got downtown at the bike club months ago.
I cant do the chain and am NOT messing with the motor to get that back tire off. You saw what happened to the other 11T #415 motor sprocket that was on the front of that 20" bike bolted to the handlebar's with a two by four. Ground down to a mini deathstar as the sprockets were out of line and I ran it anyway.
The back tire is on this and the sprockets seem to be lined up much better so am NOT messing with it until the tire is flat. That means I need to break the chain with my chain breaker and get the pedal gears as well as the brakes worked on. :x That may take awhile.
On a good note though I got those two switches from those old kids razor scooters and the one with the 40A fuse is off the old 20" bike on the back porch. The one with the 2 by 4 that I took the motor off of. I will be soldering that fuse and switch to the Schwinn downstairs and replacing those alligator clips with bullets.
The same goes with the diamond back but I will need another fuse. That controller sparks worse than the Schwinn. The switches and fuses will prevent those sparks. The thing is though I will be running Dans old packs with the D back so will need to recharge and combine with parallel bullet cables I will make. I will also be needing to make the pre hook up balance cable. Please see diagram below to make sure that is correct.
That is the plan but will need to know what size or capacity resistors will be needed in my illustration. obviously the resisters must be able to flow in both direction as . Is that non polar ? Also what ohm and wattage am I looking for ? Thanks.
LC. out.
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DrkAngel
1 GW
Switches and fuses will not "prevent those sparks".latecurtis said:
Spark will be internalized inside the switch ... check Amp rating marked on switch to estimate number of uses till failure.
15A switch for 40Amp controller = a short lifespan!
See - Doubly Redundant-Redumbnant!
and - Spark 'em up?
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo fire burns. 24 vs 48
I hate 44v. The new 10.0 - 6S packs were close a month or so ago when I charged them but now are about 1V off total. I want to go see my friend downtown but have to charge the packs to try to get them close before I make the series connection. This will be their first run. Working in the dark and had to run an extension downstairs to install the switch with the fuse and the bullets. The Schwinn was still set up with the gator clips for the old ice cube tray set up.
Dont care how unorthodox the 24V setup was with the 2 by 4 but as you can all tell I stopped riding very much when it finally got ready to fail. The 24" bike that is running 24V or 6S LiPo will be an every day ride. geared for 16.5 mph it will be just as useful up hills as the Schwinn or the Diamondback. I guess if I had a 12S charger and could run and charge without unhooking the series connection I would be happier but then you double the risk of overcharging a cell as I dont think you can balance charge 12S LiPo without a BMS. More money.
I don't care what you all say but running an e bike for daily use with simple run and charge a simple 6S system like the 24" bike is the cheapest and best way to go. Screwing around like I am doing now is nothing but a real hassle.
I hate 44v. The new 10.0 - 6S packs were close a month or so ago when I charged them but now are about 1V off total. I want to go see my friend downtown but have to charge the packs to try to get them close before I make the series connection. This will be their first run. Working in the dark and had to run an extension downstairs to install the switch with the fuse and the bullets. The Schwinn was still set up with the gator clips for the old ice cube tray set up.
Dont care how unorthodox the 24V setup was with the 2 by 4 but as you can all tell I stopped riding very much when it finally got ready to fail. The 24" bike that is running 24V or 6S LiPo will be an every day ride. geared for 16.5 mph it will be just as useful up hills as the Schwinn or the Diamondback. I guess if I had a 12S charger and could run and charge without unhooking the series connection I would be happier but then you double the risk of overcharging a cell as I dont think you can balance charge 12S LiPo without a BMS. More money.
I don't care what you all say but running an e bike for daily use with simple run and charge a simple 6S system like the 24" bike is the cheapest and best way to go. Screwing around like I am doing now is nothing but a real hassle.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 1I guess I will be on my way soon. NO I did not take the time to solder the bullets downstairs and cheated with wire nuts however by placing electrical tape around the wire nuts and about an inch down the wire they cant come off easily. I am on my way downtown. Breaking in my new 10.0 packs. I should have come up with a way to lock up the new LiPos as they cost $160 with shipping. I need to get away from the game long enough to actually accomplish something around here. Next month the 24" bike goes on the top of my priority list. Thanks.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Oh, how the mighty have fallen!latecurtis said:
Mr. "I'm a newbie and wanna go 50mph!"
DAND214
10 MW
DrkAngel said:
Reality has finally hit home. No more unrealistic speeds.
Either those damn balancers are off or your volt meter is Fxxked. Do the math!
48.9v is not 4.18v per cell. IF the cells are off I would switch the balancers and see if they really are! I don't worry if the cells are a couple hundredths off. I run them down to maybe 3.89 after about 15 miles and just bulk charge them back up.
If the cells have changed much after sitting there is something wrong. If I make the mistake of leaving my packs charged for more than a day or two, I don't worry about the balance I worry about the loss in capacity. Good packs don't change cell voltage much if at all.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
first of all I never really gave up totally on a 50 mph bike. It just is not happening right now. If i live long enough and figure out how to make some extra money it will happen then. but no place here in schenectady to go fast except for short distance need smooth open road. As far as the balancers go they dont require adjustment but the multimeter does need adjustment from time to time. also I have three balancers and one multimeter so what the balancer says is accurate. I am downtown and will post a video going back home mostly uphill. Did a video comming down but probably wont post it as too dark the way back has more streetlights. will post it when i get home.
just proving a point that for an e bike in the city 24V 500W can get you around just as good as 48V e bike. cargo wise and point a to b including up hills. For 50 mph 66V LiPo with hub motor will be required or 36V ampflow chain drive.
I will be leaving soon and has camera taped to handelbar, will post it in few hours if camera battery dont die. thanks.
LC out.
just proving a point that for an e bike in the city 24V 500W can get you around just as good as 48V e bike. cargo wise and point a to b including up hills. For 50 mph 66V LiPo with hub motor will be required or 36V ampflow chain drive.
I will be leaving soon and has camera taped to handelbar, will post it in few hours if camera battery dont die. thanks.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Yup. 500w is plenty for most places in the city, especially if you're trying to stay under the radar. Especially if you don't mind helping a few of the steeper hills.
66v for 50mph? You'd better cut down a suspension bridge for your cables if you want to save some money. I was helping someone on this forum spec up a 60mph bike (100km/h). He got the fastest wind, 9kw motor he could, and was trying to figure out what voltage he needed. Even on the fastest wind, he needed to go 28S - or 103.6v, to get the unloaded speed, more if he genuinely wanted to hit it. And at that voltage, he still needed to handle 90amps continuously.
Admittedly there is a big difference between 50mph and 60mph in energy (not so much in speed), but 66v to 50mph would be a challenging build.
latecurtis
100 MW
As far as 100+ volt to go 60 mph I really don't know ? The 3,370W AmpFlow motor is rated at 36V. If it would hold up to 12S LiPo without burning out 50 mph should happen easily, not 60 mph though. The motor would most defiantly fail then. I am sure there is a hub motor out there that could easily do 50 mph at 66.6V though. Should not need 72 + volts for 50 mph. It has to do with the motor being used. two of those 4.5 hp 36V AmpFlow motors, one on the back and one on the front of a bike with a strong enough frame to handle it should hit 60 mph with a 10 kilowatt 72V brushed controller but would be too much work as that Crown hub motor I used to post would be a lot easier to install. I think it was guaranteed for 60 mph at either 72 or 84V. I will look it up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-HPC-Crystalyte-The-Crown-GEARLESS-e-bike-Electric-Bike-Hub-Motor-60-MPH-/122018434932?hash=item1c68dd8f74:g:nJsAAOSwqYBWn-Fi
It says 72V and up to 100V I guess
http://www.jozztek.com/shop/ebike-motors/158-greyborg-cromotor-hubzilla.html
Motors like these just made me realize that trying to compete with anything chain driven may be doomed to fail. Exceptions could be that 20killowatt astro motor which I think was brushless and chain driven but with that amount of torque and rpm what would happen if the chain broke! ? It would be like shrapnel from an improvised explosive. It could cut someone in half so with my mechanical skills how would I even attempt such a build.
I may still do a 40 mph chain drive with dual motors front and rear someday but have to agree hub motors are superior than chain driven. I learned that the hard way. I am still building chain drive motors as I like the challenge and already have two perfect running hub motors. I will be running the diamondback with the 800W hub motor for a video soon.
The video came out ok I guess considering it was after 2 AM. These packs however started out very close but ended up. well check the picture. Not sure what I should do now. I could run them to wall-Mart and then recharge or could charge them now. I always balance charge. That was their virgin run. Please let me know and here is the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT96sxnT210&feature=youtu.be
DAND214
10 MW
It ran good! Made it there and back!!
I still would switch balancers and see if they read the same as the other. See if the 3.9x is the same on the other balancer. As I said I have 5 or six of them and they are not all the same.
As for chain drive. I sure would prefer a rear chain to jump off and lock up the rear than the front at any time. At least you have a chance sliding, much better than a faceplant when a front wheel locks up!!.
When did you move to England? or did they change the rules there?
I assume, no headlight or tail light and NFW you have a helmet.
dan
I still would switch balancers and see if they read the same as the other. See if the 3.9x is the same on the other balancer. As I said I have 5 or six of them and they are not all the same.
As for chain drive. I sure would prefer a rear chain to jump off and lock up the rear than the front at any time. At least you have a chance sliding, much better than a faceplant when a front wheel locks up!!.
When did you move to England? or did they change the rules there?
I assume, no headlight or tail light and NFW you have a helmet.
dan
Sunder
10 MW
Looks like a nice place you live in. Very busy at 2am though. Maybe Australia's just smaller. I'd need to go to a fairly large town centre to get that much traffic/people about at 2am.
I am wondering why you have a circular saw following you around everywhere. Or is it a chain saw? Never see it, but every time you accelerate, it sounds like someone cutting into wood... i'd be like freaking out thinking Leatherface was always after me.
I am wondering why you have a circular saw following you around everywhere. Or is it a chain saw? Never see it, but every time you accelerate, it sounds like someone cutting into wood... i'd be like freaking out thinking Leatherface was always after me.
DAND214
10 MW
Sunder said:
Come to Chicago, it never slows down, just like NYC.
As long as you hear the saw, you are ok. It's when the blade snaps is when to worry.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 36V 600W hub vs 24V 500W chain.
I am charging the SLAs that have been sitting at around 12.5V for awhile now. I taped together the charging cables and have gave up completely on running all six for 36V@20Ah. It sounds really great as far as 1C discharge rate or less most of the time but parallel charging all six at once and the extra weight running all those most defiantly outweighs the extra longevity of running six SLAs.
They will run three at a time now with the diamond Back. You guys can let me know if you think it is safer to run it at 36V vs 48V. I ride the thing so already know that the forks will snap and the structural integrity of the bike has a higher failure rate at 48 or 44V. The gearing with the 20" wheel produces much more torque upon take off and up to 19 mph or whatever top speed it achieves at 48V. safety wise the diamond back should be pedaled to at least 5 mph before gradually engaging the throttle even at 36V and 600W. Anything over 15 mph on smooth roads is most dangerous as it is officially a kids bike as DA pointed out and over 100 lbs overweight.
There is no doubt that it will be a little better up hills than the chain driven 24" bike at 500W geared for about 16.5 mph but it should only be a slight difference. The 20" bike climbed the same hills as any of my 48V hub motors did geared for 20mph at 533W. It just went up at around 7 mph instead of 12 or 15 mph like the Schwinn did last night. Anyways the next two videos will judge the performance of the motor and gearing. Please do not judge the brakes on the 24" bike as their present condition is temporary as I will be hooking custom brakes to the back and getting the front brakes tuned up. Thanks.
LC. out.
I am charging the SLAs that have been sitting at around 12.5V for awhile now. I taped together the charging cables and have gave up completely on running all six for 36V@20Ah. It sounds really great as far as 1C discharge rate or less most of the time but parallel charging all six at once and the extra weight running all those most defiantly outweighs the extra longevity of running six SLAs.
They will run three at a time now with the diamond Back. You guys can let me know if you think it is safer to run it at 36V vs 48V. I ride the thing so already know that the forks will snap and the structural integrity of the bike has a higher failure rate at 48 or 44V. The gearing with the 20" wheel produces much more torque upon take off and up to 19 mph or whatever top speed it achieves at 48V. safety wise the diamond back should be pedaled to at least 5 mph before gradually engaging the throttle even at 36V and 600W. Anything over 15 mph on smooth roads is most dangerous as it is officially a kids bike as DA pointed out and over 100 lbs overweight.
There is no doubt that it will be a little better up hills than the chain driven 24" bike at 500W geared for about 16.5 mph but it should only be a slight difference. The 20" bike climbed the same hills as any of my 48V hub motors did geared for 20mph at 533W. It just went up at around 7 mph instead of 12 or 15 mph like the Schwinn did last night. Anyways the next two videos will judge the performance of the motor and gearing. Please do not judge the brakes on the 24" bike as their present condition is temporary as I will be hooking custom brakes to the back and getting the front brakes tuned up. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
For some reason solder will NOT stick to these fuses. I tried and flux just made it worse. I had to use a combination of thin strips of gorilla tape and electrical tape. I just have enough time to shoot a video now as it is getting dark.
DAND214
10 MW
Now I know why you are so fast. Acording to your pics, you are a day ahead of us. that's also why it takes a day to get your posts :lol: 
:lol: :lol:
I don't think the diamondback will run on 36v very far. I thought it was a 48v controller. So the cutoff would be higher than 36v.
Dan
:lol: :lol: I don't think the diamondback will run on 36v very far. I thought it was a 48v controller. So the cutoff would be higher than 36v.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Yeah ... tough to solder aluminum fuse legs ...
Large blade fuse?
Drill 1/8" holes in legs
Attach wires and fasten with sheet metal screws
Large blade fuse?
Drill 1/8" holes in legs
Attach wires and fasten with sheet metal screws
latecurtis
100 MW
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kq-7mSyIb-I&feature=youtu.be
reason why I was cursing at the start of the first video is I forgot my backpack and did not want to go back upstairs and get it. :lol:
I was thinking the same thing about the LVC but it ran fine and dont think the batteries were fully charged either, I could tell be the power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VE48WMBFgc&feature=youtu.be
reason why I was cursing at the start of the first video is I forgot my backpack and did not want to go back upstairs and get it. :lol:
I was thinking the same thing about the LVC but it ran fine and dont think the batteries were fully charged either, I could tell be the power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VE48WMBFgc&feature=youtu.be
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latecurtis
100 MW
I let them sit quite awhile at about 12,5V I think and they were not fully charged today. It was getting dark and I wanted to do the video. Once they are fully charged I can put them on the three stage overnight to maintain them and I still have the desulfater.
Once those go on the three stage then the other three SLAs can take their place on the mega charger. I should always have three SLAs charged and ready to go for that bike. It will be very good for short trips and is fun to ride. For cargo though it is basically useless. The next video will be of the 24" cargo bike hopefully tomorrow. The thing is with the variable controller on that I can also take out the cash box with the 6S Lipo set up and put three SLAs in the front basket and run it at 36V and 750W. I will shoot two videos one at 6S LiPo and the second at 36V. I will need to work on the connectors though so I can switch back and forth. Gearing according to calculator is almost exactly 24. 5 mph. Yes it will be SLA battery abuse but it will also be a lot of fun.
Also I still have the 48V controller originally used on the 24" bike. I have not tried it since replacing the 56T spoke sprocket with the 60 tooth. Before gearing was 35 mph but with the 60T it is 32.5 mph. All I really need to do to run it at 44V LiPo is put bullet plugs on the motor wires so I can unplug it from the variable controller and plug it into the 48V controller. I can leave the variable controller with the pot and mount the 48V controller next to it. :lol: It sounds like a plan to me.
Thanks for posting guys and glad you are all still here on endless sphere.
LC. out.
Once those go on the three stage then the other three SLAs can take their place on the mega charger. I should always have three SLAs charged and ready to go for that bike. It will be very good for short trips and is fun to ride. For cargo though it is basically useless. The next video will be of the 24" cargo bike hopefully tomorrow. The thing is with the variable controller on that I can also take out the cash box with the 6S Lipo set up and put three SLAs in the front basket and run it at 36V and 750W. I will shoot two videos one at 6S LiPo and the second at 36V. I will need to work on the connectors though so I can switch back and forth. Gearing according to calculator is almost exactly 24. 5 mph. Yes it will be SLA battery abuse but it will also be a lot of fun.
Also I still have the 48V controller originally used on the 24" bike. I have not tried it since replacing the 56T spoke sprocket with the 60 tooth. Before gearing was 35 mph but with the 60T it is 32.5 mph. All I really need to do to run it at 44V LiPo is put bullet plugs on the motor wires so I can unplug it from the variable controller and plug it into the 48V controller. I can leave the variable controller with the pot and mount the 48V controller next to it. :lol: It sounds like a plan to me.
Thanks for posting guys and glad you are all still here on endless sphere.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Yeah, I have a feeling we'll be part of the furniture for a while. Just for shits and giggles, I had a look at some of the REALLY early posts and what they were building back then (surprisingly, they were very similar to your bikes - adapted not-purpose-designed motors using big gears to get it to the right speed, etc. Hub motors didn't seem real popular back then.)
Just added a kid trailer to my bike. Went for a 3km ride. Older son loved it. Younger son wasn't so convinced. Going on a family biking holidays in about 6-7 weeks. Should be fun.
Just added a kid trailer to my bike. Went for a 3km ride. Older son loved it. Younger son wasn't so convinced. Going on a family biking holidays in about 6-7 weeks. Should be fun.
latecurtis
100 MW
Did you ever look into building a push traitor. I have seen a few where the motor is under the trailer and pushes the bike. The interesting thing about it is if you hook the motor up to 12" wheels a high rpm 5600 rpm brushless motor or even a 4.5 hp Ampflow motor can run with a small sprocket compared to a 26" wheel. I think I posted a couple videos on them awhile back. Please let me know what you think about them. I will post a link if I can find one. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYaEZkAO0LU
I defiantly cant afford a AmpFlow or any motor now and for awhile but the 800W 36V Unite motor would run at 1200W and 3,666 rpm at 48V.
I will calculate a wheel sprocket for 30 mph now.
LC. out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYaEZkAO0LU
I defiantly cant afford a AmpFlow or any motor now and for awhile but the 800W 36V Unite motor would run at 1200W and 3,666 rpm at 48V.
I will calculate a wheel sprocket for 30 mph now.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
This one's only for a once off holiday, so no, hadn't thought about that. I have seen the concept, including hiding the controller and batteries in the trailer itself, and just slaving a throttle signal to the bike throttle. It would be really good as an alternative to a cargo bike, or a child transporter.
latecurtis
100 MW
A 48T spoke sprocket would work if there is a way to hook it to a 12" wheel. 3666 rpm will = 30 mph.
However I would never use any type of bike trailer to haul a child. At least not here in NY.
off road on a bike trail absolutely. That would be lots of fun but the way people drive here it just could not be safe.
There is no way to control what a driver behind the wheel of a 4,000 lb or more vehicle is going to do.
If it runs into you there is no protection. If someone slams into your car, truck ect, And your kid is in a proper safety child seat there is a much greater chance of survival. That is just my opinion but if you think about it, it makes a lot of sense. Thanks.
LC. out.
However I would never use any type of bike trailer to haul a child. At least not here in NY.
off road on a bike trail absolutely. That would be lots of fun but the way people drive here it just could not be safe.
There is no way to control what a driver behind the wheel of a 4,000 lb or more vehicle is going to do.
If it runs into you there is no protection. If someone slams into your car, truck ect, And your kid is in a proper safety child seat there is a much greater chance of survival. That is just my opinion but if you think about it, it makes a lot of sense. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Wow!
A 4.5hp push trailer!
That'ill be a sight to see ...
Be running circles around you!
A 4.5hp push trailer!
That'ill be a sight to see ...
Be running circles around you!
Sunder
10 MW
DrkAngel said:
I'd be worried about getting kids body parts stuck in the chain, personally.
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