new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Yes. It is standard with e bikling motor kits to have a module which mounts to the bike handle bars. it turns the controller on and of.

However.

That is not the case though with 5 other e bikes I have in storage in NY. I experiment with chain drive e bikes. I even have a 20" e bike with a 500W 2,500 rpm - 24V motor on the back with an 80T freewheel sprocket and an 800W 36V motor on the front that is running 24V and has an 56 tooth spoke sprocket on the front. The rear is #25 chain and the front #40 chain. @ 24V the gearing is about 1.5 MPH difference or less than 2mph so the motors basically work together for approx. 20 mph.

I have run both motors at 36V and 30 mph but 24V is better gearing for up hills. Those bikes do NOT have the separate module and also are brushed motors and controllers.

I am going to put money in my account to place another order today for the Meter DA. posted and a better switch. I might get that DC breaker you posted. I also will need more bullet connecters.

My other bikes in NY are Easy Street named after the song from the Walking Dead. It is a 700c Giant Cypress hybrid and It has the same motor as what I have here and the module on the handle bars.

Then there is a 750W 36V gear reduction chain drive and a 1,000W 26" front hub kit and an 800W 20" front hub kit. I do not remember if those two hub motors have the module like the e bikeling kits but do not think so.
Thanks.


LC. out.

 

[Rassy]

Ok LC, I have edited my previous posts, mostly related to your diagram that labeled the two switches as kill switch 1 and kill switch 2. I think it reads better now and will be less confusing.

One thing though, in my experience, even if a controller provides for an on/off power switch the capacitor in the controller still fills up when the battery is either turned on or connected to the controller. This is when the pesky spark is created, and that pesky spark is what can kill meters and switches, usually over time. And that is why I do like to use DC breakers that are built to handle the spark. Just to note here, there are other ways to control the in rush current to the capacitor, but more complex in my opinion.

Hopefully this clears up my comments a bit.

 

[Rassy]

Here is a link to another site that lists their breakers by amperage rating:

https://www.electricscooterparts.com/circuitbreakers.html

 

[latecurtis]

Yes.

That is awesome.

I deposited 100 bucks. It was the ATM outside the bank. I have to wait until tomorrow afternoon to place any orders. I prefer ordering everything from e bay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AIRPAX-BOAT-MARINE-AC-DC-TOGGLE-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-SINGLE-POLE-40-AMP-80-V/223988208351?hash=item3426bcd2df:g:EBUAAOSwlANeoz4J:sc:USPSFirstClass!44706!US!-1



On my way walking I remembered how all my controllers in storage work. All the brush controllers I own have two wires coming to a small plug labeled power lock. I remember I cut off the plug and twisted them together as otherwise the controller would not turn on.

The other brushless controllers had a switch on the back of the controller to turn it off or on.

Both e bikeling controllers have the on/off power module which installs on the handle bars. (top pic)

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Rassy]

Good price on the breaker, and with free shipping. Should be good for the job based on what the seller wrote.

In the first diagram the positive doesn't go to the meter. Probably just a drawing error? Otherwise all three diagrams are identical going from the battery to the controller.

Depending on the meter I still think it will experience that large inrush of current from the battery to the controller when you flip the breaker switch on. But even if that does ruin the meter the electric assist system will still work. However, without the second breaker (switch) you will lose the stats the meter collects whenever you turn the system off. But I understand that you are mainly interested in the voltage sag while riding, which means you have to position the meter so that you can see it while riding, and of course the stats will still be there if you are interested in any of them right up until you turn it off.

I think your plan is good, and even though I recommended protecting the meter with a second switch you may not need it for the meter you are using, so good luck with your project. I will be interested in seeing how it all works out for you.

 

[latecurtis]

Depending on the meter I still think it will experience that large inrush of current from the battery to the controller when you flip the breaker switch on. But even if that does ruin the meter the electric assist system will still work. However, without the second breaker (switch) you will lose the stats the meter collects whenever you turn the system off.

If I leave the switch on the back of the controller on when turning the breaker on or the switch on the brush controllers on it might fry the meter but they are mechanical switches the button on the module is in default off so if you turn on the breaker nothing happens until you push and hold the on button for several seconds.

Also if I wanted to save information for an entire trip when stopping somewhere I should be able to turn off the controller and the meter should still get power from the DC breaker.

If not the capacity of the pack can still be calculated as the voltage of the pack will not change much when not riding the bike. Capacity , voltage SAG and voltage are more important. I can see total power output up hills as well as voltage sag with the meter. I will be able to compare those for each motor set up.

What will be very interesting is the power output up hills vs flat with my dual motor set ups. For example the bike with two controllers and two brush motors it will be possible to see the difference in efficiency running at 24V - 1.033W with 20 mph gearing vs 36V - 1,550W with 30 mph gearing.

You do realize that both the motors front and rear are mounted using 1 -1/2 by 1-1/2 pressure treated deck railing as I was lazy and did not want to drill thru steel and wanted the lighter weight wood would have. The 750W - 36V gear reduction motor is also mounted with a piece of 2 by 6 pressure treated wood. That bike is my original Currie ezip Trailz that came with a 24V chain drive and 24V - SLA batteries. When I burned out the motor I started this post. The current motor is the third motor for that bike.

I am looking at replacing all the wood for these builds to steel brackets in the future as well as other numerous upgrades. I am especially interested in brushless chain drive motors that are 1,800 to 3 kilowatts and capable of 40+ mph speed for future builds.

I plan on three dual motor set ups. I already have two chain drives so looking at two hub motors and a bike with a front hub and rear chain drive motor. I also want to build a push trailer with a motor capable of 50 mph speeds on the flat.

First though I need to get my storage here and set up an e bike work shop so I can start building bikes and large 18650 packs for 60V controllers. I will need a larger place to live if I am to get serious about building again. Thanks.

LC. out.

6/26/20

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brushless-Motor-Go-Kart-Electric-Motor-for-Go-Kart-48V-1500W-w-Mounting-Bracket/392794315574?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180911133149%26meid%3D47601c5100194a4abe1e361e54bd1e1b%26pid%3D101002%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26itm%3D392794315574%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DPersonalizedTopicsForGuests%26brand%3D&_trksid=p2380057.c101002.m4497&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa1eff818-b7a0-11ea-91c9-96919661ce80%7Cparentrq%3Af065f2e31720a69e54c7f0a9ffe93936%7Ciid%3A3




WOW !!!!


Wish that upgrade was available on the first page of this post.

Mabye not though as might not still be alive.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

This is when the pesky spark is created, and that pesky spark is what can kill meters and switches, usually over time. And that is why I do like to use DC breakers that are built to handle the spark. Just to note here, there are other ways to control the in rush current to the capacitor, but more complex in my opinion.

Hiding the spark doesn't really stop you prematurely wearing components from high inrush current. Anywhere there is a current choke point will take a bit of wear every time a massive inrush occurs - This could be anywhere from where there is a component with only a small contact patch with the PCB, even down to the tracing on the PCB itself. Unless of course it's made for such inrush current.

While building thermistor circuits and other inrush current controls was complex in the past, you can now get multistage contact connectors which are far simpler, and require no construction at all - just replace the connector. So a XT90 or bullet is no longer one contiguous connector, but rather, is two connectors in one. The first contact has a medium resistance resistor in it, to limit the inrush current. In the half second it takes to push past it to the second half of the connector, it has prefilled the capacitors enough to allow a low resistance connection to complete, at which point you can pull full load.

There is a danger in those designs that if you don't push the connectors in far enough, the power will still go through the initial contact resistor and damage the connector as well as cause big voltage sags at the real load. But overall, I think they are a simple yet effective system to genuinely stop the spark and in-rush, not just hide it.

 

[latecurtis]

Sitting here drunk thinking about hooking this beast up and going 40 mph. lol

thanks for posting guys.

Should be available balance on my card in a few hours. lol

I am ordering this monster.

Only 30 mph @ 36V but when I build a 60V pack 40 mph.

For that price I have to order. Note nothing except for the FX - 75 - 5 motor in storage is even close to this.

Thanks.


LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Capacity , voltage SAG and voltage are more important. I can see total power output up hills as well as voltage sag with the meter. I will be able to compare those for each motor set up.

You will be able to see the "total power input".
1000w input might produce:
>800w power output and <200w heat
or
<200w power output and >800w heat.

 

[latecurtis]

Thinking about ordering a second motor for that price.

I should be able to get 50 mph out of my dual motor 20" bike if I replace both motors on there now with two of those.

I will need two 48V volt controller 1,500W each and a battery pack capable of 3 kilowatts. The motors could hook up in parallel if I get a 3,000W 48V controller.

A week from today I will order the second motor. Then calculate two sprockets for 50 mph.

However am looking at maybe going up to 60V and two 2 kilowatt controllers for 4 kilowatts total.



with the 36V packs I got now I can get 40 mph now with the 20" dual motor bike I already built if I order two 46 tooth sprockets to replace the sprockets that are on the bike now. I will need two brushless 1,500W controllers though.

1,500W / 48V = 31.25W * 36 = 1,125 * 2 = 2,250W

I guess I have some time to decide if I want to go 40 mph or 50 mph. For 50 mph I will need a massive battery pack at least 48V and larger wheel sprockets. By reducing voltage to 36V not only can I use my current packs but can do the trick with 46 tooth wheel sprockets vs something insane like 60 to 80 tooth wheel sprockets for 48 to 60V.

The only 26" bike option I can think of would be the Currie. The only way I could get 40 mph though at 1,125W would be to hot rod the 48V - 1,000W motor SUNDER sent to 72V by hooking up two of my 36V packs in series. All I would need is a 72V - 2,000W controller for the hub motor on the front and a 60 tooth sprocket that bolts to the freewheel on the back. I would still need at least a 1,200W brushless controller for the new motor though.

However if I could figure out how to mount the new motor on the front with a 60 tooth spoke sprocket I could leave the 36V gear reduction motor already on the back of the Currie with a small freewheel sprocket but would fall short of 40 mph as 1,125 + 750 = 1,875W. gearing would be for 38 mph though as 2 kilowatts is required for 40 mph. For less than 70 bucks I could put a second motor like I just ordered on the back and get 2,250W and 40 mph with two 56 tooth sprockets and use the 750W gear reduction motor for a different bike.

Not sure which way to go. I could always solve the gearing problem by building a push trailer and bolting it to a sturdy rear bike rack. going from 36V to 48 or 60V still requires a larger battery pack unless I order a DC voltage booster.

thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

The only way I could get 40 mph though at 1,125W would be to hot rod the 48V - 1,000W motor SUNDER sent to 72V by hooking up two of my 36V packs in series. All I would need is a 72V - 2,000W controller for the hub motor on the front and a 60 tooth sprocket that bolts to the freewheel on the back. I would still need at least a 1,200W brushless controller for the new motor though.

Not so fast... Literally.

Here's how much power you need to get to 40MPH at the wheels:



For an efficient system, you'd probably want to add 30% measured at the battery. That's assuming correct gearing or motor kv, efficient controller, high quality motor, efficient drive train.

That direct drive I sent you - wow, over 5 years ago now - would be reasonably efficient if driven correctly. It's definitely not a top of the line motor though, so maybe add another 5-10% on that. There isn't a huge difference between a quality trapezoid (modified sine), sine, and FOC controller, though if you go a cheap square wave one, I believe there's a couple percent there too. And of course you want to make sure you're not getting too much sag through undersized wiring or bad connections. (Say, twisted and taped, instead of properly soldered and heatshrunk?

You've got a fair way to go until 40mph yet LC. But it's good to have a dream goal. Just make sure whatever you buy now as you're working up to it, can still be used as you get closer.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire burns. Maybe not two motors.

The 1,500W brushless motor for 72 bucks with the tax and 3,900 rpm was cancelled by the seller.

I got an e mail stating they would not ship to my PO. box. I also saw that they ship FED X so that would explain that.

I checked my account and the money was not refunded. I called e bay and got someone to call me in 1 minute. I was told that the order was cancelled today and the money would show up in that account Monday or Tuesday.

Then what I did was use my other bank card from my account in NY where my direct deposit used to go before I changed it to my new bank in Ohio. they ship USPS. I never had an issue with them. However I got charged for shipping.

I ended up spending over twice as much but this is what I am getting for my money.






It is defiantly worth the extra 80 bucks as it has 300W more power @ 48V and also is 600 rpm less so will require a NON custom sprocket. I should be able to get a sprocket for it from electric scooter parts or off e bay.

Also if I were to decide to run it at 36V I could gear it for approx. 33 mph. 1,350W.

The other motor was only 1,125W @ 36V.

I was considering putting one on the front and one on the back (the 1,500W motor that was cancelled) for 1,125 * 2 = 2,250W. but why would I go to all that trouble to install a front chain drive which would probably make it a death trap when I can just build a massive 60V pack for 2,250W with the single motor on the back. 1,800 / 4 = 450W + 1,800
= 2,250W.

or 1,800W / 48V = 37.5V * 60 = 2,250W.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[AngryBob]

Curtis, you are making the same bleeping mistake you made on day one.

You keep insisting on getting a motor which does the job somewhere in your imagination, instead of the motor which will actually be functional transport for what you need.

All you had to do was get the correct Currie replacement motor that several people told you to get, and clearly identified. But no, you had a better idea.

Many gigantic spoke-mounted gears, blown motors, fried batteries, lots and lots of wasted dollars later, not to mention all the sacrificed 2x4's, you still do not have good reliable transport for more than a few miles.

You cling to that gearing calculator like it was the word of God. It is a simplistic tool which ignores completely many parts of the equation.

You should not be going 50mph on a bicycle, most definitely not on one you created. You will eff yourself up more tremendously than you already have.

Good luck

 

[DAND214]

LC here is another cheap battery supplier. In Chicago with good reviews.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/power_batteryb/m.html?item=293213342446&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
I don't know much other than in the states. I am thinking about trying them. Not brand name cells, IO asked.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

Many gigantic spoke-mounted gears, blown motors, fried batteries, lots and lots of wasted dollars later, not to mention all the sacrificed 2x4's, you still do not have good reliable transport for more than a few miles.

All my chain drive projects are in storage in NY. I have been in Ohio for 14 months with one e bike. I have been riding it all over in two different counties now. Not long distance yet as battery limits.

The bike I ride now can go as far as my batteries will go. It is a geared hub motor. e bikeling geared hub kit. I have a second one in storage which is front hub also geared and 500W. That one is a 700c hybrid. The one I ride here in Ohio is a 26" dual suspension. I also have the 1,000 watt front hub motor Sunder sent but the rim is bent as I hit a broken section of road a few years ago now. I also have a 20" 800 watt kit which might also need rim work.

All together I have ordered six total chain drive motors and only broke 1. In fact someone else broke the magnets inside by hitting the case with a hammer trying to install it on a 20" bike. The one I burned out was the original 24V stock Currie motor. SLAs don't last long anyway and the only lithium ion batteries I burnt out was one 2P pack. I still have the old 10P pack and run it about 6 miles and is over 39V right now. I also have the pack I got a week or two ago and that ran good today. That is 4P.

I did go thru some two by fours , a few chains and a motor sprocket or two but overall not bad for about 6 years and I still have four running e bikes and three project bikes. I have a 48V 1,000W brush motor not even hooked up and the 1,800W brushless motor on the way. I have many extra controllers spoke sprockets a #40 chain , loose 18650 cells and my tools. I do not see where my hobby is a huge waste of money. I enjoy building and upgrading e bikes. It also keeps me out of trouble.

I do have chain drive bike projects. Maybe not as reliable but functional. Once I change the brackets from wood to thick steel with heavy duty bolts they will be much better and reliable also. I just need to get my 10 by 10 storage from NY to here. That is my big hold up. Soon after that happens I will be going 40 mph with my new motor. If the post office don't lose that too.

.

The post office lost my new Samsung packs. The two - 2P packs are MIA. I got to call tomorrow.

On a good note I ran the old packs now in parallel at 10P and they run great. Lots of power and decent capacity for their age. also the new pack did not overheat today and it was hot out. The difference was I gave it some ventilation. The top of the bag was unzipped. It only got a little warm . Not hot.

If you do get some of those DAN Please let me know how they are. I will be ok for 36V as long as the post office finds my package. They have the tracking number and it says it is there but they can not find it. I did see some 48V packs on that link. I might order a couple of those in the future.

Thanks.



LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. parallel charging lithium ion packs.




I have just enough bullets to make a parallel cable to run all three packs for 8P. 4P + 2P + 2P.


HOWEVER.

The 4P - pack has a separate charging cable so my question is do I have to charge it separate from the other two - 2P packs ?????

Will the charger that goes to the 4P pack charge the other two packs if I leave them all hooked up in parallel ?

Will I damage the 4P - pack if I use the bullets to run and charge or do I have to use the separate plug for charging ?

Is it possible to use two chargers to charge all the packs in parallel ?

This is unexplored territory. I remember when I built that 4P - LG pack in NY that I shorted out and destroyed 2P of it but way before that I remember the BMS also had a separate wire for charging but I did forget and charged thru the run bullets a few times and seemed to be ok.

Please let me know when you can. I am charging each of the new 2P - packs separate for now and then will parallel up the 4P and both 2P packs for 8P. After I run them I will check the voltage of the 4P and each 2P pack before charging. What should the voltage of each pack look like and how will I know if the 2P packs are as good or better than the 4P pack. What should I look for ???

Please let me know.

Thanks

LC. out

 

[Sunder]

The 4P - pack has a separate charging cable so my question is do I have to charge it separate from the other two - 2P packs ?????

No, but you are bypassing charge protection.

Will the charger that goes to the 4P pack charge the other two packs if I leave them all hooked up in parallel ?

Yes,it will see the other packs as a "load"

Will I damage the 4P - pack if I use the bullets to run and charge or do I have to use the separate plug for charging ?

Possibly. If you charger through the charge port when your cells are too far out of balance, the charge port will stop the charge temporarily. If you charge through the discharge port, it will be unable to stop the charge.

Is it possible to use two chargers to charge all the packs in parallel ?

Possibly, if both chargers are fully isolated. If not. Boom.

 

[latecurtis]

Yes,it will see the other packs as a "load"

Great. The charger that hooks up to the charging cable is better than the other two old chargers I have. It gets hot though so I hang it in front of a 20" fan.

The two new 2P - packs look nice. I liked the way they were packed.

I still am not sure about the science behind parallel charging. Especially with BMSs that use the same port to run and charge. All my old packs do that.

When parallel charging different packs which may be different capacity If one pack reaches full charge then the BMS will keep it from over charging awhile the other packs catch up ?

Also if when running and a pack reaches the cut off voltage before the others it will shut off but the others will still run ?

Also is it still possible to measure the capacity of each pack after I run them all in parallel ? I basically know the first new pack I ran twice is defiantly NOT the rated capacity which was 14 Ah. It is lucky if it is 7 Ah. I basically got robbed on that. I just did not feel like returning it.

However the two new packs which are 2P and rated at 4.4Ah each are very similar to the old genuine Samsung packs I bought about 3-1/2 years ago. They might be the real deal. but will I have to run each separate in order to tell ?

If they are what they say I want to order about 6 more - 2P packs.

Please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Going to the post office to get my 1,800W brushless motor.


I can build a 16S - 60V pack for less than 150 bucks.

No they wont be even close to their rating however will search youtube for capacity tests. No doubt they will be fake but if over 1/2 their rated capacity for that price I can live with that.

Even though I know I could build a front and rear chain drive e bike , why would I go to that much trouble. I proved already I could as I did and it will do about 30 mph @ 36V. I posted many videos and the 20" dual motor chain drive which is in storage.

I will be looking at 60V controllers.

I guess I will need a soldering iron and some solder and flux.

I was thinking hard on the way to the post office to try to block out the fact that it is about 100 degrees outside. I am really glad the post office is less than a mile away.

Basically by ordering cheap 18650 cells to save money I am hiring 240 boys to do the job of 120 men. Real quality 18650 cells >3,000 mah will cost at least 3 times as much as cheap FAKE 18650 cells rated at 3,000 mah.

The trick is to get at least 50% of the rating so am looking hard on youtube at capacity tests.

If I can order cells which test for 1,500 mah than 240 cells would be 15P.

16 * 15 = 240. 1.5 Ah * 15 = 22.5 so 16 - 18650 cells in series must = 1.5 Ah.

2,225 / 15 = 150W. So 16 cells in series have to be = or > 150W.

This will take some research. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://batteryhookup.com/collections/modem-batteries/products/2-lg-samsung-18650-2200mah-cells-modem-batteries.



Well. maybe I wont have to hire 240 boys to do the job of 120 men.

Looks like I will be going 40 mph.

OK. Now that that is settled I want to get back to these new 36V packs that are all hooked up in parallel now for 8P.

If I run them for about 10 miles and then take them apart and test each 2P - pack and the 4P pack what should the voltage be for each pack and what does that tell me. It should let me know if one of the packs are defective. Will it tell me the capacity of each pack ?

Sunder says I can charge all the packs in parallel from the single charger by hooking it to the 4P - pack charging port. This seems like a miracle of science.

Note. I am not used to running and charging any packs more than 6P as the old Samsung's were 6P and the SONAs were 4P. Now they are all in parallel for 10P and I only ran and charged them 1 time.

I just want to be absolutely positive that I wont be screwing anything up. I spent a lot of money and just want everything to go really smooth. No smoke or fire.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

If I run them for about 10 miles and then take them apart and test each 2P - pack and the 4P pack what should the voltage be for each pack and what does that tell me. It should let me know if one of the packs are defective. Will it tell me the capacity of each pack ?

Voltages will be identical.

 

[Sunder]

Cells designed for modems are not likely to be able to put out the power required for an eBike when they are new, let one old.

Since modems have a much longer shelf life than laptops, they are also likely to be much older than ex laptop batteries.

I would buy a small sample and test thoroughly before investing much into these.

 

[latecurtis]

Voltages will be identical.

Well that is great to hear. It is awesome news as well as the fact that I can charge all the packs with a single charger.

I am glad I finally listened and decided to run them all in parallel.

I defiantly will be ordering those cells from battery backup. I am looking at 48 * 4 = 192 cells.

I figure after testing the cells I should be able to build four packs or 16S * 3 = 48 to a BMS.

I would buy a small sample and test thoroughly before investing much into these.

OH. OK.

I could maybe just order 50 first as that is the minimum amount and build one pack first. Since I plan on paralleling as many 16S cells as possible I should be ok if I am eventually running 16S - 10P. I might still go as high as 15P which is 240 cells. Lets see. 48 * 5 = 240.

If I did that even lower quality cells than is usually used for propulsion should work ok right ???

I will need to order Five BMSs. I will need good ones and will want a brand that someone has already used and tested for short circuit and all that. I will be ordering 50 cells from battery backup Saturday. I got rent to deal with tomorrow.

The last thing I will be ordering is the 60V controller. I am also looking at maybe getting a little help with the build. It would be great to have two sprockets or even hook up the chain to a 3 speed shifter. I would then be able to run two separate controllers. One for 36V and one for 60V as I have not seen many variable controllers that will allow 36 to 60V.

HOWEVER.

I did see a few that were 42V to 72V I think. The thing is though does that mean it will shut off at 41V or 40V ? If that is the case it would make my 36V packs about useless. A geared hub could be an option also. I know it was discussed way back on this thread somewhere. Anyway once I order the 18650 cells I won't be ordering anything else until I get my storage. I might still order about 6 more of those 36V - 2P packs though. Not sure.

I have to see how much money I have left after paying my bills this month. I already got 1,000 bucks put aside for a 2007 Cadillac. but is not happening for at least two weeks. I will need at least 300 bucks to put it on the road also.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Just remember, more parts, more problems.

Let's say we're overly optimistic, and you have a 1% chance of any cell or connection to a cell failing. Considering not only that you're buying second hand cells, and the fact the quality of your soldering jobs leaves something to be desired, 1% is, I think, quite generous.

The probability that you will get a 16S1P battery that does not have a fault is 85%. Not bad odds.

BUT If you built a 16S15P battery, the odds that you will get a fault free battery falls to below 9%.

Yes, getting 240 "Boys" to do the work of 120 "men", may look good on paper, but if all work has to stop if anyone gets injured? Well, you probably don't want to hire those 240 boys.

You constantly remind me of why the trite truism "The poor pay twice" is well... True.

 

[latecurtis]

If I build a 36V 40 cell - 10P pack to start for under 50 bucks and it goes about 10 miles and don't shut off up a couple of hills or overheat then 240 of those bad boys should do 40 mph and at least 20 miles.

It is worth the risk I think.

Either way I got reliable transportation and have had a reliable e bike for years now;

Angry bob says I don't but he don't read all my posts. I got Easy street in NY also. My chain drives may need a little work but the Curry runs good. I just have to tighten the chain from time to time but all is needed is a wrench and used a rock more than once to tap it before tightening the bolts on the go on several occasions. On the dual motor e bike the chains stayed tight.

I am a veteran e bike builder. Once I get my storage and tools 40 mph will happen and about a year after that 50 mph.

Thanks.

LC. out.