new eZip motor

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by DrkAngel » Jul 27 2021 5:08pm

latecurtis wrote: ↑Jul 27 2021 12:46am
I need two good BMSs then. All I will need then for the Haro V3 and 3 kilowatt motor is the wheel sprocket.
1 BMS TO RULE THEM ALL
You will need a minimum of 2 to attain any reasonable range. Combine 2, or more, and 1 BMS should be sufficient for all.

download (12).png

Well the power modules are 13S - lion. Limited capacity high discharge.

IMG_0668.JPG

Can I run them in parallel with the higher capacity lower discharge pack I have been using for BOTH high discharge and higher capacity ?????????????

It just makes sense as could go about 50 miles round trip easily. but separate maybe 20 miles on the pack I have been using and not sure about the power modules.

I would like to know and if the answer is yes than what BMS would be best to make it happen ?????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I have just discovered this thread and don't quite know what to think about it.

First thing; I don't want anybody who is new to ebikes to copy anything this guy has done. I give him a 50 50 chance of hurting himself. His batteries have a near 100% chance of burning up.

Using solder the way you are to assemble battery packs has been proven to fail.

For Gods sake get a wire stripper. Using a flame to strip insulation is beyond stupid.

I like his idea of getting a 3D printer. Probably safer for him to play with that than messing with something as volatile as building lithium batteries.

I'm not even going to comment on a bike built by him going 48 mph. :shock: :shock: :shock:
 
First thing; I don't want anybody who is new to ebikes to copy anything this guy has done. I give him a 50 50 chance of hurting himself. His batteries have a near 100% chance of burning up.

Using solder the way you are to assemble battery packs has been proven to fail.

For Gods sake get a wire stripper. Using a flame to strip insulation is beyond stupid.

How do you figure ?????


Your statement is similar to what another ES member said.

by Ianhill » Aug 04 2021 5:58pm

I gonna be honest with you, stop buy a battery thats complete or with terminals your not saving nothing your costing yourself dearly in the long run.

The wires are connected on the left of one cell the right on the next theres no methodical apporach or you just wouldn't do it like this.



The fact is there is a methodical approach. The series connections can not possibly touch and short out. It is impossible by design. The wood spacers also offer another dimension of protection as well as providing a very tight fit inside the impact resistant storage box. If it were to be dropped out of a third or forth story window on the sidewalk chances are the packs would still not short out. The plastic might split but the wood separators would prevent a short circuit.

All connections use heavy gauge wire and the balance wires are soldered to all the series connections. None of the series connections can touch as used wood spacers to separate the cell banks and used liquid tape with electric tape over that.

If for some unlikely reason a thin balance wire were to short somehow it is like 24 gauge so would burn thru severing the connection before the cells would heat up to a point causing a fire. But that is unlikely as I used the solderless connecters DA. recommended to extend those balance wires and three layers of thin electrical tape to back up those solderless connecters. Also the balance wires are taped and secure so do not see it happening.


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I do use wire strippers. I just use a lighter to heat up the insulation so it strips easier. Perhaps you should Check with DA. He has been soldering packs for years and they do not fail.

Now please tell me how my packs could catch on fire ????? I will be putting a 60 amp fuse between the positive and the DC circuit breaker also. The DC breaker is 40 amps. It will trip if there is a short. I am also taking one more step as I have accidently plugged the negative and positive of a pack together thinking I was plugging in to the controller. Never again will that mistake be made.

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For that pack and the next one I am building just like it I will be using them exclusively for the Currie which has a 1,000W chain in the rear and 350 Bafang up front so 1,350W. but we will go with 1,500W so amps drawn should be < 36. 1,500 / 42 = 35.7A.

I am not going to use my first two for 3 kilowatts. 3,000W / 60V = 50 amps. I will build three more packs for that and should be able to make improvements however would like to know what improvements need to be made. Is there a way to attach a temperature sensor with temperature sensor wires to different areas of the pack to see how hot it will get drawing 35 amps ?????

How do I avoid a fire ??????????????????????????? I do not want a fire :roll: :roll: I built a 18650 pack years ago in NY and ran them at least 10 times with no fire then one day made a mistake and instead of plugging the male bullet in the controller plugged it in the female bullet of the pack. Yes I did get smoke and a little fire as one BMS worked and the other failed.

The pack above I just built did balance charge but need pack #2 to test and run. Please let me know. I trust DAs opinion. I do not want to but could probably remove the pack from the box and take pictures. But do not see the need to as do not see any way it could possibly short out and thermal runaway only happens to old defective 18650 cells I thought ??????????????????????????????????????

Please let me know.

DA. ??????????

Someone. What in the hell is this guy talking about. 100% chance of fire. ???????????? HOW and WHY ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????/


Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Well I officially deleted my facebook account and am severing all ties with friends and family back in NY.

I only talked to two people and the guy I considered my best friend facebooked me drunk saying maybe when my wife dies I can have a normal life. the dude has been jealous of me since I knew him back in the early 2,000s.

I facebooked him back saying he is insane. I go more places on my bikes and my van in one week than he and the other friend do in a year. I said all you two do is sit home and stare at the walls. They never leave Schenectady and Schenectady NY is for losers. Then I said I am deleting my Facebook account and I did. In 30 days will be permanent.

My family is not any better. I lived 30 minutes away from my mother for 20 years and not once got invited for Sunday dinner or a holiday. My 1/2 brothers and sister are not any different. They just do not like me and now I don't like them. I will not be bothered to attend any of their funerals either. frock them all.

I am going to the Cannabis store with the 26" dual suspension. They close at 8 PM and not supposed to rain. The 13S battery is at 3.8V per cell and the 10S is at 39V. I do not keep them fully charged at 4.2V per cell as it takes off dozens of charge cycles a day doing so according to research I have done.

I am going to use the 10S pack for the front Bafang most of the way there as it is flat. When I get to the hills I will kick in the rear 1,000W motor to get up the hills. My guess is when I get back home the 10S pack will be around 36V from 39V now.

Since I am only using the 13S pack up hills and is 3.8V per cell now it should be >3.6V < 3.7V when I get back. Since any battery I build is going to catch on fire I need to take very good care of the packs I bought off e bay. I just fully charged the 10S pack two days ago and used it once from 4.2 to 3.9V. The 13S pack was fully charged to 4.2V three days ago and used twice and is 3.8V now. I can charge both to around 4.1V and run one more time before I fully charge each again to 4.2V so they balance.

I will post the video when I get back.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I made it back. The first video did not take for some reason. I am uploading the second though. In the first video the 26" dual suspension made up the steepest hill at around 17 or 18 mph I think it was which is great.

Voltage for the 13S - 20 Ah pack is 47.5V - 3.65V per cell.

The 10S - 8P is 35.6V or 3.56V per cell.

I will be charging both to somewhere between 3.9 and 4.1V for the maximum amount of charge cycles. After I run them both one more time from around 4V down to 3.5 or 3.6V then they get the full 4.2V charge for proper balancing.

Awhile I am waiting I am going to remove and inspect the LIFEPO4 pack. I do NOT want to build another unless I know for sure 100% positive I am not going to have a fire. I don't see how it is possible but was told there is close to 100% chance of a fire.

I will take high definition pictures and will be waiting on DA. and a couple other members to let me know. I just want to run LIFEPO4 and could not find anyone willing to build the packs so either I do it myself or I spent almost $200 on 26650 cells for nothing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl9t-TJH9C8

OK there is the video.

The first video did not come out.

I just made a video when I took out the LIFEPO4 pack I built. Then I took pictures. I just want to know for sure it wont burn up. I do not want a fire. I just want to build one more 6S LIFE pack just like it for 36V or 12S.

I did a second video with the Cannon pocket camera and used the 1,200 lumen light I bought for night riding. It needed charging so was up here. The video shows the pack from every angle and hope that others here on ES will watch the video and let me know if this pack if good for 1,500W or 36 to 40 amps when I build a second 6S - 5P pack just like it.

As I said before I already built three of these packs before but they were WRONG. I did not beef up the series connections and the packs were only good for maybe 10 or 15 amps.

I had to rip all 3 packs - 16S total apart and start over. It is frustrating. Now I got ES members telling me that the pack I just re - built will catch on fire. I want to know why he said that. Is he just frocking with me ?????????

here are the videos followed by pictures. Hopefully I can get some feedback as I really do not want to start over again.
That is the mistake I made before as well as the negative solder joints just peeled right off. (pic below)



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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHpr7x-FfRk


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37ZIyo3VMIg


Please let me know.

I really need this to work. If I can not build LIFEPO4 packs then there is no hope at all of building the LTO packs.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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I made it back. The first video did not take for some reason.
Probably because you did not beg the viewers of your video to subscribe, like and make a comment which in turn gives your channel a better Youtube algorithm.

BTW is that 1/4" ply or 1/2" ply?
I would have used 1/8" MDF myself, whatever you have around works.
 
It is 1/4"

The dude that said that shit on facebook I have known since 02.

Sucks people have to be that way. He has been jealous of my wife since I knew him. Always saying shit.

He don't have a woman because he puts no effort to get one.

I considered him my best friend because all the friends I knew longer or just as long are under the ground.

Not sure if any of you ever watched Grizzely Adams but was one of my favorite shows growing up. Just totally separated from society. Most of his friends were critters. :lol: He did have two human friends but that was it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Life_and_Times_of_Grizzly_Adams

Only thing I would do different is solar power. Satellite internet. I got to talk to someone. AI would be great. An Ai bot for a companion deep in the woods. :lol:

The older I get the more anti social. However I know it can not all be my fault. I can not control other peoples thoughts and actions. I have enough trouble controlling my own.

Thanks for posting.

LC. out.
 
Yea.

I heard they pay people to live there.

I don't do well with freezing temperatures. I can do 30s and 40s but 20s and teens and below with wind just really sucks.

Same with heat. Why I sleep till 6 PM on really hot days. Florida sounds great from November thru February. The other months the northern US or Canada even would be great. I never was in Canada so would love to go.

I used to hitch hike around in the 90s and 2,000s. Traveling is desirable for me. Been sitting at one place so many years in Schenectady and do not want to repeat it here in Ohio.

It is a big world and like to see more of it.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
Not sure if any of you ever watched Grizzely Adams but was one of my favorite shows growing up. Just totally separated from society.

[youtube]oJ9YaDgSGmA[/youtube]
 
I was going to ride the 20' Turbo tonight and it did not have any power. The light came on but there was barley any power. It was like a almost dead SLA. The bike would barley move.

I was running the newer 10S - 8P pack which was fully charged. 4.2V.

I took the packs apart and tested each one and all are 4.2V.

I really do not know what to think. I do not see how it could be the controller or the motor. Last time I ran it was with the 13S pack.

All I have to run is the 10S and the 13S packs.

I still have the really old 10S - 10P packs but have been storing them. I need to test them. Not sure what to do. They still run but are like 5 or 6 years old. Not sure how many cycles. Probably over 500. Not sure as usually only ran them down to 3.7 or 3.6V per cell then re charged.

I could take them apart as well and test voltage and iR. I did test voltage not long ago and all were the same. I did not have my iR meter then. I do not even know what the iR is even supposed to be for a 10S pack. I will look up what iR is supposed to be for a single cell but not even sure how to read the meter.

I could use some help here. I will hook the 13S pack up to the 20" Turbo tomorrow and see what it does. If it still don't have power then it must be the controller. I do have the original controller from the 26" 1,000W motor. I swapped it for the sensor less greentime controller. I thought it was the 4 wire throttle but really did not see a big difference in power so the stock controller is still good.

I thought if a controller was bad it would not work at all. I am confused.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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Could be controller lvc if you last rode on 13S and now you say it didnt run on 10S
unless it was working on 10S
or maybe you thought it was 10S but the pack was 13S

Its strange, sometimes I think I get extra range out of my batteries and sometimes I think I get way less range. Could be a mental twist, or just that one time the batteries charged for a very long time knowing full well the packs are topped up, and other times it could just be that I charge for a short time and its just not what I think the batteries are at.

Temperature has an impact because in winter I dont bring along my good pack I use my old pack and I get way less range because its damn cold. I need to figure out what I am doing this winter, I just might install a handlebar basket and use that for battery and bring battery in with me.
 
or maybe you thought it was 10S but the pack was 13S

I cant mix them up. Especially when charging. They each have their own charger and checked that also plus they are all at 4.2V and each has a BMS which protects against over charge.

The last I ran the 10S - 8P packs was with the 26" dual suspension in the last video I made.

I made it back. The first video did not take for some reason. I am uploading the second though. In the first video the 26" dual suspension made up the steepest hill at around 17 or 18 mph I think it was which is great.

Voltage for the 13S - 20 Ah pack is 47.5V - 3.65V per cell.

The 10S - 8P is 35.6V or 3.56V per cell.

35.6V was kind of low though but should not be that low to damage the pack ?????

I just do not get it. I do know that it has been taking a very long time to get a full charge out of that pack. I have had to leave it over night to get a full charge. I remember it was at 4.1V and was on the charger about 4 hours and still did not have a green light but when I checked it before that trip it read 4.2V. Also I was running the 13S pack and the rear hub motor did most of the work up the hills so makes no sense that the 10S - 8P pack would be that low only going 14 miles.

I left it on overnight Sunday night until Monday morning and did not use the pack yesterday as it rained all day.

I have only had those packs less than two years. It makes no sense they are already shot. I ran the old packs about 6 years and they still run. I just don't get it. I do not know if I will ever understand lithium batteries. It makes no sense to me at all.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Could be anything

could be you stored the battery at less then ideal temperatures - just takes that one time

or you left the iron on the can to long when soldering the wire onto it

could be a bad batch, especially from back alley sellers at the usual sites, Alibaba/Aliexpress/ebay/amazon, maybe you chose some random sellers with a blind fold on and a dart, non-reputable sellers are not reputable for a reason because they are an unknown, you have no clue but maybe you think a seller is reputable but how reputable are they really. Meaning, wherever you bought your cans from, trying to think of that seller now, its the site that sells packs from modems.

could be a bad BMS

could be a twitchy charger
 
They are factory 18650 packs. Not something I put together.

Two are 10S - 2P hoverboard packs and the Laudation is 10S - 4P I think. It is rated at 14 Ah.

They were all in parallel.

I really do not have a clue what to do. I am not even sure if I should recycle the old 10S - 10P ( five hoverboard packs that I have had for 5 or 6 years. They still run.

Now am I supposed to re cycle packs I only ran maybe 200 cycles ????? Makes no sense at all to me.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
could be you stored the battery at less then ideal temperatures - just takes that one time

or you left the iron on the can to long when soldering the wire onto it

could be a bad batch, especially from back alley sellers at the usual sites, Alibaba/Aliexpress/ebay/amazon, maybe you chose some random sellers with a blind fold on and a dart, non-reputable sellers are not reputable for a reason because they are an unknown, you have no clue but maybe you think a seller is reputable but how reputable are they really. Meaning, wherever you bought your cans from, trying to think of that seller now, its the site that sells packs from modems.

could be a bad BMS

could be a twitchy charger


Well temperature is not it as they are not that old and had them here in the apartment. No wires were soldered. They all came with the XT60 plugs that are still on them.

The charger cant be bad as they are all fully charged and the ran up until now. I ran them on several of my e bikes. It really does not make a lot of sense. It could be the 800W controller and am hoping it is as I have the 1,000W controller I can swap it out with. However back a couple months ago they cut out hooked to the 1,800W brushless motor. But I ran them on both the 26" Diamondback Outlook with the dual Bafang motors as well as the single Bafang on the front of the 26" dual suspension since then.

It just makes no sense to me. I will put the 13S pack on charge now so I can try it tomorrow with the 20" Turbo and see what happens. Hopefully DA. will post. I would like to hear what he has to say. All I know is if the LIFEPO4 packs I am building do not work I am done with e bikes for awhile. I spent a fortune on batteries and if I do not have a decent 36V pack to rely on there is no sense in continuing any of this madness.

Then I got clowns that never or hardly ever post saying my LIFEPO4 pack will just burn up if I try to run it but I see videos on you tube where LIFEPO4 cells are placed in a vice , hooked up for dead short circuit and even flat steel bar is placed on top of them and still there is very little flame which goes out. Obviously their opinions are not based on fact as they do not know the difference between Lion and LIFEPO4.

Not sure what to do with the LTOs and those power modules. According to the video I have to remove the PC board which requires a lot of wires which I really do not want to do but guess I have no choice. I do not even have a BMS for those and no BMS for the LTOs either. I am not happy at all. I wish I did not spend all that money. I should have ordered a 30 Ah 36V LIFEPO4 and a 48V - 30 Ah LIFEPO4 pack already built. :oops:

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
According to the video I have to remove the PC board which requires a lot of wires which I really do not want to do but guess I have no choice.
LC. out.
file.php


... Hopefully DA. will post.

No need, or any good reason, to remove PC board.
...
Try batteries on different bike, to eliminate them as the problem ... etc.
 
https://batteryhookup.com/products/panasonic-48v-power-module-13s-6-4a-300wh

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The guy on the video said that it needed to be removed to hook up a BMS ???? Not sure but did you watch the video ?????

I will be trying the 13S pack with the 20" Turbo and 800 watt controller. It was raining earlier. I will Google the local weather.

If the 20" Turbo works on the 13S battery then those 10S packs are shot I guess. I could try the questionable packs on the 26" bike with the Dual Bafangs but if the 20" Turbo bike works perfect with the 13S pack I see no point. It must be the batteries.

I could try the 10S - 14 Ah laudation pack on its own without the hoverboard packs as I saw a video where they put fake dead cells not even hooked up in those hoverboard packs. The only way to tell is to cut them open.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dovXXBGikc4


download (1).png

It shows the old dead cells one actually leaking not even hooked up. That could be the problem but won't know until I cut the blue wrapper off the pack.

First I will hook up the 13S pack I charged to the 20" Turbo and see if that works right. If it does I will try the 10S - 14 Ah Laudation pack by itself with the 26" Dual suspension. If that works then I will cut the wrapper off the hoverboard packs and take it apart.

If three or more battery packs with BMSs are in parallel and say one is good and the other two are bad it should still go faster than 5 mph. The power was so low yesterday I am not even sure if it could go 5 mph.

I need to build that second LIFEPO4 pack. I still did not get any positive feedback on the first one I built. Only that guy that said they would catch on fire and obviously that guy does not know about LIFEPO4. Therefore his opinion don't matter to me.


I just watched this video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_vo9dplWEg

If I split up my LTOs and run 12 for 30V and hook up that DC booster I will only have 9 Ah though which really is not a lot but could re charge quickly with the right charger on any AC plug.

1,000W / 30V = 33.3 amps.

How large and expensive is a 1,000W charger though. If my average discharge is only 16 amps then for every 1/2 hour of charge I could get close to an hour of run time as long as i get a booster > 90% efficiency.

The big problem with that is I would have to baby sit the batteries if using an outside outlet so they do not get stolen unless I can losk the bike up and the LTOs and charger and run a heavy duty 14 or 12 gauge extension cord.

I still think my only hope is the LIFEPO4s. they take up a lot of space but are very safe from fire if a short did occur by some mishap and are 19 Ah when hooked up at 5P.

I would gladly trade all 200+ 18650 cells for a couple boxes of LIFEPO4s at $40 a box I think.

$188 / 5 = $37.6. Yea mabye a little over $40 with shipping.



Thanks.

LC. out.
 
those 10S packs are shot I guess.

Please do not guess
Why not dust of the ole multi meter and do some measurements, go for a ride, measure some more, drain to lvc and measure some more.

1kw charger size, go to BMSBattery and see the size and weight.

I would want a charger that would charge at the highest rate possible for a 120Vac outlet, so I'd have to make a battery to deal with that and usually that charge rate is around 25A at 48/52V. Just imagine going for a long ride, running out of juice and charging the battery up and in one hour get 1250Wh. For me thats another 50km ride. Now that'd be cool, at the moment bringing along 2 chargers I can only get 8A on 2 packs that are 750Wh each. Anyway that wattage for 25A would need to be around 1250W charger, no Meanwell is that, only one is 1kw or 1500W, 1500W is to much for standard outlet.

Another cool thing would be to get a battery that can deal with very high charge rate and use EV charging stations.
 
download.pngdownload (1).png

Yea. I have not lost a pound in almost two years. Back in 2019 before COVID19 I went from 234 down to 215, I was going to the WMCA.

I am back to 230. My diet is horrible. McDonalds , Stromboli's and calzones and fried chicken sandwiches and fries at Wendy's all the time.

I might get the wife to bake some chicken or do a stir fry meal with peppers and mushrooms and left over chicken or 93 % lean beef but I like cheese on it.

It says cheese is ok in small portions though so sprinkling a little on the top of lean meat and veggies is ok but Stromboli's and calzones or 4 slices of pizza is not ok.

Anyway they got a new ordering thing on the wall and a 400 pound fat guy to show me how to use it so obviously he had no clue about the healthy menu choices listed above. :lol: I ordered a chicken burrito with no sour cream or cheese and rice under black beans. Not too bad but will be starving in about 4 hours. Hopefully I can get the wife to fry some fish with extra virgin olive oil. A lot healthier than the lard they use in fast food restaurants.

I need to cut way down on butter which I use too much of on canned green beans and sweet peas. I hope to lose at least a pound a week but this is most difficult for me.


I ran the 20" bike with the 13S batteries and has full power. Runs perfect. The same bike the 10S - 8P packs failed on yesterday. The 10S packs are completely shot. I had to beat a thunderstorm home. Really dark clouds moving very fast. I just made it and felt a few drops on the way in. I figured there would be lightening bolts and thunder but that storm is gone. Just white sky now with no sun. Somebody is getting hit I bet.

I am really not sure what to do with those 10S packs. I still do not know if one or two packs are bad and one pack is good if there would be such power loss I experienced yesterday. All three packs tested at 42V and internal resistances were all about the same. I am at a loss for words on this. It really does not make any sense to me at all.

All I know is if I run 36V LIFEPO4 it will work fine for the Currie with the 36V 1,000W chain drive on the back but that is about it. Since 36V of LIPO4 fill up two of my battery boxes there is no way I am running them on the 26" dual suspension as that rear hub motor really needs at least 53V to get any usable performance out of it.

Also I really did not want to run 36V LIFEPO4 on the 26" Diamondback with the dual Bafang motors. The 36V - 8P pack was perfect as they fit in one black box. I do not want to modify the rack for two side by side like I did with the 26" dual suspension.

So now I have a total of 7 - 10S - 2P hoverboard packs including the old SONA and Samsung packs and a 10S - 14 Ah Laudation pack that I do not know what I should do with. I can unhook the old hoverboard packs and test each for internal resistance but not sure if it will tell me anything as the new packs that failed did not tell me anything as I just do not know what to do. I just want one 10S - 8P pack in one black box for my single and dual Bafang motors. I will run the 36V LIFEPO4s exclusively for the Currie.

I hope someone has some answers.

Thanks.

LC. out.

8 :55 PM.

Yea. I guess it is like I figured. Lion is just junk. Garbage. All three packs tested at 4.2V and held a charge but are still shot.

Paid way over $200 for those and did not even last two years and nobody here even has a clue why. I do not understand how the packs can be bad if they charge to 42V and hold the voltage. Also do not understand how they could be shot under 500 cycles. Ok. 48 months * 4 weeks = 192 cycles if I ran them once a week so taking into consideration rainy days and winter weather probably an average of twice a week so somewhere around 400 cycles and all three packs are totally shot.

Now the old hoverboard packs probably exceeded 400 cycles back in NY and then ran them at least 200 cycles here in Ohio so somewhere between 600 and 700 cycles for those old 10S - 2P packs that I put in parallel for 10S - 10P. I just find it difficult to believe that I have to recycle 180 - 26650 cells or 7 - 10S - 2P packs and a 10S - 4P pack. There should be a way to at least salvage 1/3 of all that or 10S - 6P. I just need to run Dual Bafang motors which is 17 amp controllers so 34 amps total. 700 watts.

I just do not know what I should do. Is it impossible to find out what packs are good and which ones are bad without tearing each pack completely apart and testing each individual cell ???????

If that is the case I do not want any more BMSs unless it is Bluetooth and can see each cell voltage and iR on a phone screen or something. This shit is ridiculous. I am irate.

Thanks anyway.

LC. out.

10:24 PM.

I think I said it awhile ago but I got to be in the mood to solder and I am not. The last pack took over a week to build and many hours. Then I got clowns saying it will burn up. Before that I built them all wrong and had to tear them apart. Before that I ordered a spot welder but when I got it was too scared to plug it in. Nickel strip has been at the post office for at least a week.

Then I get people warning me about a fire and nobody said it even might work so don't really want to build the second one right now. I spent way over $1,000 on batteries and only have one working pack. The 13S - 20 Ah pack.

The corner of my closet is batteries. All 180 cells in the cans Seven 10S - 2P hoverboard packs. 24 LTOs under them and LIFE packs I screwed up and need to get ready for re solder and a bunch of different 18650 combinations and at least 150 loose cells and got the two power modules on the kitchen table.

It is just hopeless. :oops: :cry:

Thanks.

LC. out.

11:20 PM.

I cleaned up and organized the e bike workshop. I bought that speaker wire the last time I rode the 26" Dual Bafang and those packs ran perfect. Then a week later they are shot ????????

I can not work with that 10 gauge wire from Home Depot. It falls apart and breaks. The 12 gauge Wall Mart wire is almost as bad. Not flexible and have to take a lighter and soften up the insulation. I will use three strands of the 16 Gauge and should be around 11 or 12 Gauge. I have a 40 amp breaker so will be good for that but not the 3 kilowatt brushless motor.

I will need 12 - LTOs , 8 gauge wire and a DC booster. I plan on boosting from 30V to 56 or 57V. > 2,600W < 3 kilowatts- 44 or 45 mph gearing. :twisted:

Each 16 gauge wire strand will do 15 amps and 600W so three = 1,800W so perfect for my 1,800W brushless motor and four for the 3 kilowatt motor as good for 2,400W. 2,600W is maximum but wont happen for maybe a few seconds. Cruising speed will be 35 mph. Top speed for under 30 seconds 43 mph. Four strands of 16 gauge wire but might be able to use the 10 gauge wire as will only need an inch stripped for ring connecters on the LTOs.

I will be using three strands for the LIFEPO4s. The first pack was = or > three strands of 16 gauge wire.

77.png

I measure the first wire and leave about 1 -1/2" for series connection then solder each wire from the 5 cells to it and then cut a piece of wire double the length of the first wire and wrap around the whole thing. At least = to 10 gauge I think so good for 1,800W.

The second will be the same but hopefully better solder joints and even better series connections. I did video and took pics. of the first pack and will do the same for #2. Hopefully there will be noticeable improvement.

Thanks. LC. out.
 

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latecurtis said:
The guy on the video said that it needed to be removed to hook up a BMS ???? Not sure but did you watch the video ?????
Typical!
You misunderstand or hear wrong or make wild assumption because you are too impatient to actually listen.
The guy on the video said that he was removing the PC board because he did not need it!
 
Well I should at least put cardboard over it and gorilla tape it as looks like a lot of things to short out the pack. Basically a million circuits on that board. I will decide whether to remove it or not when I get a BMS. I think the guy was right and may as well get rid of it. Less chance of shorting the thing out.

What about all these 18650 packs. How do I test 10S packs without ripping them apart ?????????

Why would packs fail like that under 500 cycles ?????????????????? How do I know if the old packs need recycle. What is good iR for a 10S pack.???????????????

How come they hold voltage but fail to run an e bike ??????????????

It would be great to know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Well to figure that conundrum out
- Who sold you that bill of goods?

I checked e bay and Amazon and could not find the 13S - 20 Ah pack which I bought a year after so no clue at this point.

I just know the two hoverboard packs were ordered separate from the Laudation 14 Ah pack. The two hoverboard packs are 10S - 2P. MABYE !!!!!!!

The video I posted showed they have been stuffing 10 dead cells not even hooked up on those hover board packs so actually could be 10S - 1P. However all three packs were in parallel so the question is any of them any good ?????

It is like a catch 22. I do not want to take all three packs apart to figure out if one of them is good. But I do not know how else to do it. I could hook up the 10S - 14 Ah Laudation pack to a single Bafang and if it works then the two hoverboard packs are probably bad. I could test them to be sure but seems like a lot of hassle.

Something just isn't right as packs don't rum great one day and barley run the next. It is usually a downward spiral. Performance is lost over time. That is why this just don't make any sense to me. I do know that the 13S pack works perfectly and the 10S pack acts like it is completely shot.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
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