new eZip motor

[markz]

See if you can measure any current off the main cable hopefully your meter can measure under an amp, even better if it can measure milli-amperes.

Loose wire somewhere on an old vehicle like that.

Besides you should have let it run to recharge for like 30 minutes, and put your meter on the battery to measure voltage.

 

[DrkAngel]

Tomorrow I will try and jump it I guess and am really hoping I can keep the battery fully charged with this 12V power bank. It has a 500W DC to AC converter so should run the 1 amp trickle charger for several days and should be able to bring it up stairs and charge overnight.

1200A jump starter has a 12Ah SLA so might 1A trickle charge for 10hr?
But, might run your spot welder?

 

[latecurtis]

1200A jump starter has a 12Ah SLA so might 1A trickle charge for 10hr?
But, might run your spot welder?

Well I already tried a 1 amp trickle charge for around 10 hours when I was sleeping with my 22 Ah- SLA and 150W inverter and 1 amp trickle charger and the van battery tested at 5.5V. Did you read my last post ???????

A 12 AH SLA ?????????????

That is insane. The discharge rate for SLA is way way less than LiPo or even lithium.

I figured some very high discharge 18650 cells like what is inside the 13S power modules.

I was thinking the same thing but only 500W AC and only way it could run the spot welder would to push the jump start button and then you get the 1,200 A. I would have to hit that button for each spot weld. May even blow the spot welder up !!! Not sure. I thought the spot welder needed 800 amps ????? I forgot.

It is not a charger. It is a jump starter. 1200 amps or zero amps. How can a 12 Ah SLA put out that much power when I killed at least a dozen SLAs way back when running my first e bike builds ?????????

750W / 36 = 20.8 amps. That was my first e bike. The Currie when the 450W stock motor burned up and hooked the 48V - 1,000W Unite motor to three 22 AH SLAs. Now you are saying that a 12Ah - SLA can put out 1,200A. Only way I could see that happening is a very large capacitor between the SLA and the output terminals those jumper cables hook up to.

I got a two year warranty. I should just take it back then if there is an SLA inside it. Not paying $100 for an SLA. I got a 22 AH - SLA that wont charge and only a year old. Not sure if my Mega charger is shot or what but NOT charging SLAs on PB charge.

I am just soooooo lost. Baffled. I really do not have a clue. So what did I pay for ???????????? A 12 Ah battery with a huge capacitor ?????? I know 9 of the LTOs would start the van but never hooked them up in series. I need the van to start tomorrow afternoon. I would try it now but not even a good street light out there now. Too damm dark.

The thing is fully charged though.

I could of swore it said 14. something volts a minute ago though ??????????

Well I would love to know how I could run my spot welder with that ?????? I do not even think my 1 year old 22 Ah SLA is any good so why would I keep that thing around if it has a 12Ah SLA inside it. It really does not make any sense but if I could get it to run the spot welder it would be worth it.

What do I do when the 12 Ah - SLA dies ????????????? I am glad I got the two year warranty but still can not see it being worth keeping. I could probably get someone to jump start me and order a 2 amp trickle charger that could hook directly up to an SLA. Not sure if the 22 Ah - SLA I got is even any good though. I only used it to run a 150W power inverter to plug in the 1 amp trickle charger to plug into the vans charge port to keep the battery charged. That and the 150W heater a couple times to try and defrost my window.

Well I have the receipt. I just read where it says it is a SLA. The important thing is keeping my insurance active on the van if you read my last post. I guess I could jump the van with it and then take it back to Wall Mart. Not really an honest thing to do though.

It did not say how to replace and seriously doubt that I could upgrade the internal battery to those super high discharge cells like in the 13S power modules.

I do not even see how it could hook in parallel to another larger 22 Ah - SLA if the one I got is even any good. If any of those things were possible perhaps it would be worth keeping. In case you missed it I only pay about 19 bucks a month for car insurance as they sent me a device that plugs in under the dash.

I was specifically told that in order to qualify for the by mile program the van always has to have power as it works with the vehicles computer. Since I hardly ever drive I am NOT willing to shell out 56 - 60 or more a month for insurance so this is a really big deal for me. If my program gets cancelled I will probably junk the van and have no place for the 5 e bikes inside it so may as well get rid of them as well.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Yes
Its a very tough one to figure out ain't it

Remember what CCA stands for in lead acid batteries, cold cranking amps.
https://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/how-to-choose-your-car-battery-replacement/battery-cold-cranking-amps-cca

The rating refers to the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts. The higher the CCA rating, the greater the starting power of the battery.

You can also get a better alternator to output more power
heck you can even hook up two alternators
if you plan on running onboard air or an onboard welder or a really powerful electric winch

Just return your battery and hopefully you saved your receipt

Also, do you have AAA membership?
Well worth it, but I wouldnt want to waste a service call on a battery unless its unlimited service calls.
If you do have a AAA membership, hopefully you stuck the large AAA sticker on the bumper so the tow truck driver knows your a member :lol: :wink:
I am always amazed at the people who do that, the same type who buy a brand new car and have the dealerships license plate holder attached with their stupid dealer sticker decal on the trunk lid.

I personally like the $170/yr cost for Up to 320 km for 1 tow, 160 km for 4 tows, and 5 calls today. So yeah I wouldnt want to waste a call on a simple battery boost in front of your house. Just get a neighbor to boost ya, if they/you are friendly at all or keep to yourselves.

 

[latecurtis]

I had AAA back in 2019 but never renewed it as I drive about 3 to 5 miles from home. My wife son bought a tow truck. I do not drive on thruway or highway so could push it to parking lot. then call Johnny. I got a Cadillac from him in 2019 and traded it for the van in 2020 I think.

Thought about taking the jump-start / power bank back.

Then I tested the AC outlet and plugged the little air purifier in. Less than 30 seconds voltage dropped from 13.1V to 12.9. Doubt it is 12 AH. Maybe 7. fan in purifier lucky if 50 watts. To be sure more testing needed but I am lazy alcoholic. :lol:

It is a new junk box. :lol:

Just watched a cool YouTube video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TfGK-17QQU

junk boxes been around awhile.

This guy knows a lot about lithium batteries.

Worth watching. Did not check for thumbs up but think he deserves one.

Probably will jump the van if possible but might take back for the refund on the 20" Turbo and lie and say it could not start a 6 cylinder. it is not the right thing to do though so will sleep on it.

I will see how it works and do a video with my camera sunglasses. If it does start right up I might change my mind. If not will get my money back. Charging the 13S pack. Only pack left and 8 hours later still no green on the charger. Just what the 10S packs did before fail. I doubt I will be running Lion and BMSs much longer.

I think Lithium ion , BMSs and 18650 cells are garbage. I will know as soon as the 13S pack fails. I would love to get rid of all my 18650 cells.

I suspect lithium ion is garbage. Only hope for future is LIFEPO4 and LTO and newer solid state battery technology. That will be confirmed as soon as the 13S pack fails and I am left with nothing.

What I do know is LIFEPO4 is way way safer from you tube videos I watched. I got rid of the old LiPo. All 18650 cells are next on my 86 list.

In fact I will spend up to 100 bucks to send all 18560 cells and packs which are made from 18650 cells for two boxes of 26650 energy cells like the ones I bought from battery hookup.

DA. You like those 13S power modules. Spot weld me a 60v 26650 pack from those military grade cells from battery hookup with a BMS and they are yours plus a bunch of good tested 18650 cells. At least 100. I need to finish a 10S 7P pack for the Bafangs with the best cells I have been testing.

After that I got a bunch of those good cells that need extracting from those life vest cases 3S - 1P. Also all the old 10S 2P hoverboard packs if less than 50 bucks to ship. I would bet at least 60% of those cells have 300 to 600 cycles left. BMSs are not good enough and a few bad apples will spoil the basket is what I think. I do not have the time and patience to sort those out.

I just want to get them out of here. Bad cells are a fire hazard. I have very small apartment and no safe storage for sketchy cells anymore. I only want to run the very best tested 18650s and only 10S for Bafangs or e bikeling geared hub motors. Anything > 22 amps will either be LIFEPO4 or LTO.

Yes even that crazy insane LC we all know is developing standards and just as SLA has failed in the past 18650 cells are now , so looking to move on and phase them out.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Tomorrow I will try and jump it I guess and am really hoping I can keep the battery fully charged with this 12V power bank. It has a 500W DC to AC converter so should run the 1 amp trickle charger for several days and should be able to bring it up stairs and charge overnight.

1200A jump starter has a 12Ah SLA so might 1A trickle charge for 10hr?
But, might run your spot welder?

Lead Acid are great for high amp - brief surges!
Not good for prolonged or deep discharges, being left below full charge or left in cold, or hot, weather.

 

[markz]

I wonder if you did any research before buying that jump box
Walmart doesnt sell high quality stuff

 

[nicobie]

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.amazon.com/Roykaw-Voltage-Reducer-Regulator-Converter/dp/B086C32FK1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwmeiIBhA6EiwA-uaeFUmfw5vMKJNICqzEW1ULBlWABEzSmNaZfEnSSXEZqYeD4AowA43OKhoCw-kQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409938551970&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1023608&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=16289630135343848847&hvtargid=kwd-24169921056&hydadcr=24634_11410133&keywords=36v+to+12v+converter&qid=1629148996&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFKVjFMQk9HUElOT0kmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3OTg0MjExNlJKR0o0MDcwVkNFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MzA0MjkzS1lGR0hPTEMxUUIzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==



I just rolled out of bed and on my first cup of java.

Trying to muster up enough ambition to take the new junk box outside and try and start the van. Looks like it will pour down rain any second.

I was wondering if I do decide to keep the junk box how difficult would it be to remove the SLA and hook up 8 gauge wires to the terminals and run them outside the box ?????????????. If I could hook up that DC to DC step down converter it would be easy as cake to do a discharge test of all seven of those 10S - 2P packs and @ 360W even the 14 AH Laudation. That would allow me to keep running the old packs much longer so I can get my moneys worth out of them instead of buying new batteries all the time.

I know DA could help me with that but WILL HE ???????????

Just like the LTOs I have. If I could get a decent step up converter I could run 9 or 15 - LTOs and get 54 or 60V output which would save me so much trouble having to build these ridiculously large packs with a million 18650 cells or 26650 cells , BMSs or balance wires , ect.

However nobody here on ES even want to discuss the DC to DC converters. There must be some decent ones out there. I know that the discharge and capacity tests being done on you tube is done with expensive equipment worth thousands of bucks. I do not have money like that but I would be willing to keep the junk box if I could use it to test for discharge , capacity and maybe even run the spot welder like DA said. Especially if there were a way to do so without voiding the two year warranty.

I seriously doubt anyone will take it apart and check for modifications inside the unit. I just have to be able to put the lead acid battery it came with back in it. But just in case I could connect to it with hardware like terminals that bolt down and not attempt to solder anything.

If I can accomplish that then it will be impossible to tell I ever took the SLA out of the unit. It would also allow me to upgrade to LiPo , high discharge Lion or maybe even LIFEPO4. With 12" - 8 gauge cables coming out of the box I could hook up just about anything externally instead of attempting to stuff Lipo or something inside it which could cause damage to components inside the unit or even fire or severe electric shock / death.

I just called battery Joe in Texas and run all this by him and was told that what I intend to do is possible. I just need to take action. So far I have accomplished nothing today. My question is how lazy can a human being get ??????? The van is not the only thing that needs to be jump started. :lol:



Yea. I did accomplish one thing so far. Now hopefully I can charge that 22 Ah - SLA. If the SLA does charge then it will be better than the one inside the unit. 22 Ah is better than 12 AH or less. I just need to get wires from inside the unit outside to hook it up. Then just plug the trickle charger to the charge port inside the van to keep it charged at all times so I do not lose my insurance.

That is the big deal breaker right there. If I lose my by mile insurance and have to start paying $60 or more each month I will be done driving forever. I will trade my driver license for a state issued iD.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. I accomplished something today but had to pay $20 for a ride from the guy down stairs.

Well I learned one important thing. DO NOT BUY JUNK BOX FROM WALLMART !!!!!!!

Garbage. I had to take it back and get a full refund.

there were 4 bars which is full and said 13.2V. The starter turned over for all of 1/2 second if that and click click click !!!!!!!

I am absolutely sure I am not the only person who took one back. It says on the box up to 8 cylinder. The motor in the van is a 3.3 liter V6 engine.

I got like $107 back and bought three items for $97. The lawn mower battery was only 24 bucks. So now I have a charger to charge the van battery and smaller 4 amp for the lawn mower battery and in a week or two can properly charge the 22 Ah - SLA with the 3 amp charger I ordered.

However my problem with keeping my insurance is NOT solved. I do not know when I can get power to the van battery. However once I get it charged the lawn mower battery will hook to the 150W inverter and the 1 amp trickle charger thru the power port under the cigg. lighter and will stay hooked up all the time. The lawn mower batter should last at least two days without going below 12V. I will need to test voltage every day with the meter. Once I get the 22 AH - SLA charger I can hook that up in the van awhile I charge the lawn mower battery.


Right now though I have to haul that van battery up the stairs and put 8 amps to it as anything less might take forever. The lawn mower battery should also run the spot welder as I saw a you tube video of it happening. Do not know if it was the same exact spot welder but looked like it. I will need to look for it after I get those 8 amps flowing.

As far as discharge testing the 10S hoverboard packs I think I saw a 36V DC to 110V - AC converter on Amazon earlier today.

That should do the trick. I would rather do all that outside in a park with not many people on an old pic nic table and my small fire extinguisher and a 5 gallon pail of water just in case. I could then test all hoverboard packs and with two feet of 6 gauge wire and battery clamps hook up the spot welder. None of that will happen in my e bike workshop.

We are talking a lot of ambition and motivation on my part though. I am really frocking lazy.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Lawn mower battery will die very quickly, it is not designed for cycling, only for brief start/charge cycles. Might work with spot welder?

You can not use spot welder to discharge hoverboard batteries.

Your B6 chargers would be much better for charging sla, with "capacity" meter!

Upconverters are for, if you already have a battery and need a higher voltage, you are building a battery as less than your "need" and want to add an extra layer and complexity, failure point?

Boy, you are all over the place and missing your targets ... hard.

 

[latecurtis]

Well it poured down rain. Now it is late as hell and still wet out..

Tomorrow is the better day to remove the battery.

The money I got back from the jump box bought the lawn mower battery.

This video taught me a lot about the spot welder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=231qtaRIs3M&t=905s

That $24 dollar lawn mower battery is way better than the LiPo battery and the car battery. I doubt you will watch the video but to convert cold cranking amps to Ah is not even close to straightforward as I remembered the video from a month or 6 weeks ago when googling CCA to Ah conversion and is an impossible equation to accurately , but can do ballpark , so the rule of thumb CCA / 7.25 = Ah. That could be a little more or less. Not sure how variable though.

His Lawn mower battery was 230 CCA and mine is also 230 CCA. 230 / 7.25 = 31.7 Ah. The specific instructions that come with the spot welder state the battery needs to be between 25 and 40 Ah so 31 Ah is ideal. Also way safer than LiPo and the car battery was over 50 Ah. It is worth a shot but has to happen outside somewhere where it is not too dry. Maybe the day after a few inches of rain.

Until then I will hook it overnight at 1 amp trickle charger and check voltage the next day. I will not let it go below 12V. It will take a week at least until I get the 12V - SLA charger. For $24 bucks if I get 2 or 3 months out of it I am good.

You can not use spot welder to discharge hoverboard batteries.

Your B6 chargers would be much better for charging sla, with "capacity" meter!

Upconverters are for, if you already have a battery and need a higher voltage, you are building a battery as less than your "need" and want to add an extra layer and complexity, failure point?

Boy, you are all over the place and missing your targets ... hard.

Was thinking of 36V DC in . 110V AC out converter.

https://www.amazon.com/iMeshbean-Solar-Inverter-10-5-30V-System/dp/B00DFXAWZC/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=ZAk2Q&pf_rd_p=38316967-9a6c-4cf3-acd3-6269fd389669&pf_rd_r=TZC9T2JT5B1WKACJV3JW&pd_rd_r=09f37f91-d325-4114-94c1-4297bd7626d9&pd_rd_wg=60e9o&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d




Wire a multimeter to the 10S - 2P hoverboard packs and plug in an AC appliance that draws 200 watts. Mark down the start time and finish time for each and have a capacity. check voltage and start at 42V or full and unhook at 35V ????? Is that low enough ???? Or too low ?????

Repeat for all the 10S - 2P packs and weed out the bad ones.

Packs that do not work either recycle or break down and test each cell. I might just to see the V and iR on the really bad cells so I learn to identify them.

Not doing that inside either. Thermal runaway happens only during charge or discharge cycles. Maybe 1 in a million chance otherwise unless extreme temperatures. Old / defective cells increase chances exponentially.

I just cant believe the van battery died like that. Went down to 3.5V yesterday and had it on trickle charge overnight. Battery is totally dead. Makes no sense. I am wondering if it will even charge with the 8 amp charger when I get it in the house. I just bought it like a year ago. I just don't get it.

I wish I had a 12V to 12V - 20 amp charger. If you know of such a thing please post a link.

I could use 4S - 5P - LIFEPO4 as the 6S pack I built is right around 20V. 20 / 6 = 3.3 * 4 = 13.3V. Could probably do 50 amps if it was built right which would start the van quick but also damage the battery more so 20 amps should be plenty for a car battery and less than 2 hours could start it.

I am surprised they do not make small quick chargers for under the hood. A 22 Ah - SLa or lawn mower battery is way too big and that power port under the cigg. lighter I got and most newer vehicles do is limited to 10 amps I think. It is an un switched port. The cigg. lighter is only on when ignition is on.

A small 4S - 5P - LIFEPO4 pack would have 19 Ah capacity. Perfect for a 20 amp charge for 30 minutes. Could go larger for larger batteries and go with 4S - 10P and charge for an hour,. Will need a reliable method of shutting off though. Not just the BMS but a timer between the source and load would be perfect. Could probably sell something like that.

I am very worried about my car insurance. I could lose the deal of a lifetime if they cancel me because the by mile device is no longer working because the stupid battery failed catastrophically. If they do not get the signal then I break my agreement and have no insurance. I am not paying $50 or $60 a month. It will be off the road indefinitely.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

2021-08-16 11_15_29-Bat-Safe LiPo battery charging safe box.png

Better yet,

 

[tomjasz]

Safer yet

 

[latecurtis]

Brought the van battery upstairs early this morning. Charger said bad battery but charging it anyway. I just bought it like a year ago. No way it could be bad already.

Drank way too much beer. Felt like total shit. Slept until almost 7 PM. Eating hamburger helper. :lol: 93% lean ground beef. Way too much sodium though but if that don't kill me something else will anyway.

Hopefully the van will start tomorrow. Wonder how much a small solar trickle charger is. Small solar panel on the dash ? Only needs to be a couple amps or so output to keep the battery fully charged. ???

I need to get back to work on that LIFEPO4 pack and those 18650 packs.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/393434928446?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1XkBGmvOORkukg3UQtUyWoA87&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=393434928446&targetid=1262843334929&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1023608&poi=&campaignid=12873833227&mkgroupid=120757694159&rlsatarget=aud-622027676548la-1262843334929&abcId=9300536&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvO2IBhCzARIsALw3ASpdqBO6odLxtDcVtr0g62QUxruFl0O1MmvLubHHaatHU5kFZ71K20YaAk1LEALw_wcB

Not sure if that is the right one but I like the price. Basically like I said about a year ago I do not pay any gas or electric bill here but wont be living in this small apartment forever so should start investing in solar panels. Also more 26650 cells as if I were to invest $100 to $150 a month for about two years it could be possible to power a small house with enough panels and batteries. All that money would pay for itself in the first 3 to 5 years after I move.

Therefore I need to know how many panels and batteries to get and break it down to either 12 or 24 months and order $100 to $150 each month and that means building a 12V - 26650 pack each month. When I finally move I should be able to hook all battery packs in parallel and with the right number of panels I should be good to go. Also I might be able to charge all my e bike batteries outside in the van in BAT safe or ammo boxes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363460062403?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D233199%26meid%3Db9519a36dc38445bac92d98959e88304%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D393434928446%26itm%3D363460062403%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWithPLXWeb%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A363460062403b9519a36dc38445bac92d98959e88304%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACAGYbR%252BUOeFLGGIS9V4TyvS0IY556lb2WvOGvr%252FHV0ZyzjVXAjmR6%252F1RdICJ7mDUWYaVlNUC5j9UiENmoQGHXF%252F6yrTTP2vLdRkbEKn6bheM8BF4kQiiopgFiw4XKkCwpbgXPETDxRSFai8AMyus0kGtKuCKDbuKnLdDHsFBWyjf2rdEBerRdIbLYcubfcz6apa1Zmk2MQAYew7R2C5oKa1gPgGFWSYKyiDfnsTxt6I9dlOgtGf5%252F%252FDS7FOmX2%252B9YvfFbf1n6jLMeUSgm0hpeuH8MsvVvq9LTAIGTTeRre%252FFuWbvATJw2pGIUEdK6MQBE1livddyT0L9IvIDLjUCQsUzA38KAww48nbkPDo%252FSZiGcpOPtSxsmxy%252Fd0zldJqdfcFWiJaXobh3M%252BEamtafWe8Z63GcRrpHotZUfzFl8YoVUbrF77yZUuxhiq91Nwi8Mff16s%252BW49MI9LtjrswbCsEIhV%252BvAbkb1OlNzIw7XXS4IigZWZ2cKdwwmW%252FbWWJmC4su6i57WVNh3wvuKmViIBMVSKu%252F5klyMhKtrBaTD786nALpZ4BsSAfKEX852CmeoLg0ElKeSmUPQ762sDJLLfHQe%252Fl06TX%252B7daOsl%252FiSUF3X0ufPnGPS%252FibsApivTjVZj0TMi5eUCjQ1GsNO8lJf5teJALesIHXSWwvfJST9bZip%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675




I might even start running LiPo again. The big advantage running LiPo is they do not take up a lot of space like those power modules. In fact I may be willing to trade those and throw in some 18650 cells that test good > 4V to DA. for a 10.0 - 6S Multistar pack when they are in stock. Right now e bay and Hobby King have them on back order.

Yes that is correct. I want to switch back to LiPo for e bikes and thinking about LIFPO4s for solar power storage out in the van. The only problem is the temperature extremes out there. Too hot in the summer and to cold in the winter. Not sure what the temperature for LIFEPO4 is or LTOs but I know LiPo and Lion cant be out in the van when it is 90 degrees outside as will be like 110 in the van unless I cut a hole in the roof and install a ventilation system but not wanting to as do not know how long I am keeping the van. I may look for a newer one.

Since the FX - 75 - 5 motor probably is not happening any time soon why not even take a step farther and replace the 12V Van battery with 9 - LTOs. Never have to buy another van battery ever again. Just hook it to a solar panel kit like that and with a small trickle smart charger the LTOs will always be charged. Hell I could even offer roadside assistance for flat tires and dead batteries. All I would need is a compressor and LTOs could probably jump start a Mack truck battery. Maybe I could work for AAA. That is if I had that one thing I lack. Ambition.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4vQGgsimsk

I want that. I want to build a small electric car like that but with the FX - 75 - 5 motor with 90 mph gearing.

DA. Could you calculate 0 to 60 mph with the 28 kilowatt controller and the FX - 75 - 5 motor. I wonder if it could out run the cop car as I doubt it would be street legal but who knows ?

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

2.4V * 6 = 14.4V.

Is that too high for a car electrical system ?????????

I am thinking if the van battery dont start the van tomorrow or even if it does why not take 6 - LTOs and build a van battery. ?????????????

I could still hook up one of those cheap 200 watt solar panel systems for < $50 and have a trickle charger keeping the battery charged.

I could always take it out also and put it in a different vehicle if I were to get rid of the van.

Please let me know. I would need to order the bus bars and a 6S LTO BMS but would never in my life ever have to buy another 12V battery. Also I would still have 18 - LTOs left over. I could actually build two and sell one and get some of my money back or use it for a second vehicle.

That also leaves me with 12 to play with. I am thinking about a 24V e bike build. 12 - LTOs are way lighter than 18 for 36V and there are RC motors as well as robot motors like the 775 that run awesome on 24V as well as Amp flow. I could still build a 40+ mph bike with 12 - LTOs.

Please let me know.

I still want to invest in some portable solar panels as they seem to be dirt cheap. Figure a 200W solar panel system > $50. What does that mean. Well if I spent $50 for 10 months then I would have 2,000W total power however all 10 systems would need to work together or stack.

If that wont work the other option is a single system for now and just order solar panels every month and build battery banks for storage. Then when I move out of here into a house I order the controller needed to run the house. I will have everything else. I will just need to mount all the solar panels. Perhaps I could install them on the roof of a two car garage and run the power into the house.

For an apartment it will be more tricky. I may have to install a panel in the top of each window so before I rent make sure there is plenty of windows that get sun light. I may just want to install a 1,000W system in each room and only use the wall plugs when I absolutely have to. It would still cut my electric bill by 50% or more.

Please let me know about 6 - LTOs to power the van and anything regarding solar power. It is e bike related as will also be charging my e bike batteries with solar power. When I build the LIFEPO4 packs I could store them out in the van and have them hooked to a solar panel. Same if I build a 14S - Lion pack. I could have it hooked up to a 13S charger so it is always at 3.9V per cell. Optimum for longer life.

I may want to rent a small storage space. Then I will have a lot of room in the van. I could put plywood down on the floor over the carpet and put in an old bath tub with a metal table with a board on it and set up spot welding and LiPo charging inside the tub. With a couple fire extinguisher's of course. :lol: :lol:

I did not feel like drinking last night. I felt like complete shit all day so went to bed about 11:30 PM. I can only sleep a few hours when I am stone cold sober so am up. I might watch the morning news. I hope we get a fourth stimuli's check due to this Delta shit.


8/18/21

8:08 AM.

Have been watching the news and playing Pirates Tides of Fortune.

Not a lot of brushless 24V controllers out there. Most are 350W up to 500W. Doing the math

3,000 / 60 = 50 * 28 = 1,400W. 12S - LTO = 2.4V * 12 = 28.8V. I would need a 24V - 1,500W brushless controller. Gear for 33 or 34 mph.


If anyone knows where I can find a 24V - 1,500W brushless controller by all means please post it.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

DA. Could you calculate 0 to 60 mph with the 28 kilowatt controller and the FX - 75 - 5 motor. I wonder if it could out run the cop car as I doubt it would be street legal but who knows ?

Almost as much power as a VW Beetle. ...

 

[latecurtis]

The van did start but after 2 days on the 8 amp charger only charged to 12.6V.

I hooked up the lawn mower battery which was like 13.1V to the 150W inverter and am feeding the van battery 1 amp - 13.1V currently. I tested the van battery at 12.6V then hooked the trickle charger to the power port inside the van and then the van battery read 13.1V. Tomorrow I will unhook it and test both the van and lawn mower battery. I will probably bring up the lawn mower battery up stairs and hook it to the 3 amp charger for about 8 to 12 hours or until it is fully charged then hook it back up to the van.



I would like a solar powered charger for that task then only have to un hook it when I am driving. I do not think it should be hooked up when the alternator is sending 14V to the battery as it could damage my trickle charger and is redundant as the alternator is doing the charging.

I ordered the SLA charger also and should be here in a week so then will have the 22 Ah - SLA back up when I charge the lawn mower battery.

Even though I started the van and let run for 5 minutes is was hot and my driver window never got fixed and no AC so the 20" turbo and the 13S - 20 Ah pack made it out to the cannabis store in the country.

I need to test voltage on that and then get to work on that other 6S - 26650 pack.

Please let me know which one of those solar panel kits is the best. There are several under $50 that sound too good to be true. I am thinking about possibly charging all my e bike batteries right in the van via solar power. I could but three more $24 - lawn mower batteries for four in parallel which would give me roughly 120 Ah storage out in the van. That would be a great start.

Then as time goes on can invest in a couple boxes a month of the 26650 - LIFEPO4 cells and have a separate battery bank for back up storage. Then if I decide to run LiPo again I could charge out in the van inside a metal wash tub. They sell them at wall mart. Of course I will need a piece of plywood inside it in case of a short but could also spot weld on that.



I will need a small 5 by 5 storage unit though for all those e bikes. I will still have room for two e bikes. A 20" and a 26". There are 5 e bikes in there now.

Basically with 120 Ah storage at 12V and a 1,000W DC to AC converter I might be able to power a 500W heater in winter and small 5,000 btu AC in summer.

If I stay here at least 1 more year I could build enough battery banks for solar storage. I could run a heavy duty extension cable and power a small apartment or half a house from the van. I would just need enough panels to charge the batteries. I would need off street parking close to the apartment and could put panels wherever I can like a front or back porch. The van roof. ect. I would just need a second vehicle as the van would basically become a solar power station.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

You do realize it costs about $120 of LiCoO₂ or $240 of LiFePO₄ to store 12¢ worth of electricity?
A 100w (~$120) solar panel would be lucky to make 1kWh per bright sunny Summer day.

 

[latecurtis]

10 of those = 2,000 watts.



Ok so figure 500 watts for a small or normal size fridge.

TV is like 200 watts. Fan 50 watts. The AC is like 400 watts. 2,000 watts would not be enough to get completely off the grid but 4, 000 watts would be so for $700 or 20 of those kits can generate 4 kilowatt's and be off the grid.

Except for batteries. Not sure how many will need. 120 AH = $100 if I use the lawn mower batteries but LIFEPO4 will last at least 10 times longer. Figure 600 Ah or 20 of those lawn mower batteries in parallel could do a small house ????????????? However the extra money for LIFEPO4 will save money in the long run as lasts 10 times as long.

Like I said I can start with two of those 200 watt kits for keeping the van charged and charging my e bike batteries and just go from there.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

You really should learn some math!
"No Load Voltage: 20.8V DC

Load Voltage: 12V

Short circuit current: 2A"
Numbers look more like (12V x 2A =) 24w max panel output ... not 200w!

 

[nicobie]

To frocked up to figure it out himself. Wants us to do it for him. Amazing he has been tolerated for this long.

This is a forum for ebikes, not a place to unload ones random thoughts.

It's gone on for 292 pages now!

 

[latecurtis]

To frocked up to figure it out himself. Wants us to do it for him. Amazing he has been tolerated for this long.

This is a forum for ebikes, not a place to unload ones random thoughts.

It's gone on for 292 pages now!

Ok Einstein , So you have a point.

This question is for DA. That is because DA. recommended the power modules.

The two e bikes I own that could really use that much power are the 1,800W brushless motor which has a 48V - 1,500W controller. The other is the 3 killowatt brushless motor for the Haro V3.

The problem with the power modules is they are way way to big and not really possible to mount to a little 20" bike. I really need two 6S - LiPo packs in series. Preferably 10.0 Multistars if they ever come off of back order.

The one bike I can actually use the power modules is the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. Here is a picture of the 3 kilowatt brushless controller. I am not digging out the motor but posted pictures before. It is silver and 4,800 rpm @ 60V.



I really do not understand. 40 - 52V under voltage !!!!

3,000W / 60V = 50 * 53V = 2,650W.

It should be one number or the other. My question is will I get 2,6650 watts or not. I know the power modules will do several times that in parallel but will the controller limit the power due to the lower voltage when battery voltage drops below 52V ????????? Or am I good down to 42V. I would never run them that low anyway but they will be below 52V after the first couple miles of running them.

Please let me know.

5:41 AM.

View attachment 5

The Weller makes solder joints stick. The LIFEPO4 pack is being built. There will soon be test videos of the 12S - LIFEPO4 pack with the Currie and the Lion pack will test with a Bafang motor. My first two packs in Ohio. I built one Lion pack in NY but we already discussed why that ran for at least a dozen cycles and then failed. Sorry but if you missed it I am not filling you in. Sure someone will.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

This question is for DA. [strike]That is because DA. recommended the power modules.

The two e bikes I own that could really use that much power are the 1,800W brushless motor which has a 48V - 1,500W controller. The other is the 3 killowatt brushless motor for the Haro V3.

The problem with the power modules is they are way way to big and not really possible to mount to a little 20" bike. I really need two 6S - LiPo packs in series. Preferably 10.0 Multistars if they ever come off of back order.

The one bike I can actually use the power modules is the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. Here is a picture of the 3 kilowatt brushless controller. I am not digging out the motor but posted pictures before. It is silver and 4,800 rpm @ 60V.

IMG_0794.JPG
IMG_0794.JPG (4.17 MiB) Viewed 25 times[/strike]

I really do not understand. 40 - 52V under voltage !!!!

3,000W / 60V = 50 * 53V = 2,650W.

It should be one number or the other. My question is will I get 2,6650 watts or not. I know the power modules will do several times that in parallel but will the controller limit the power due to the lower voltage when battery voltage drops below 52V ????????? Or am I good down to 42V. I would never run them that low anyway but they will be below 52V after the first couple miles of running them.

Please let me know.

I should explain some unrelated controller\motor combo because I recommended a capable 48V battery?
Should be explained in original listing! Did you read it, or just skim and see the parts you wanted to see?

 

[latecurtis]

NO ?

Did not mean it like that.

Just wanted to know what I asked in the question.

Sorry. What the other guy said. I am a little frocked up.

I even forgot the question now. !!

Think a controller. voltage.

Not sure . Need another beer,

Not soldering again until I am sober.

Thanks.

LC. out.