new eZip motor

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latecurtis said:
Something just isn't right as packs don't rum great one day and barley run the next.

Aye, that comes across as a Freudian sip. Cheers!
 
DrkAngel said:
latecurtis said:
According to the video I have to remove the PC board which requires a lot of wires which I really do not want to do but guess I have no choice.
LC. out.
file.php


... Hopefully DA. will post.

No need, or any good reason, to remove PC board.
...
Try batteries on different bike, to eliminate them as the problem ... etc.
 
I admit I can be an A hole. :lol: :lol:

I get why folk here on ES get frustrated with the way I do things. I would be mad at me also if I were dealing with myself when I lived back in NY when I first started and was cutting XT 60 plugs off and butchering parallel boards. :oops:

I complained about removing the circuit board from the power modules then DA. Finally posts and tells me I do not need to do that but I go and do it anyway just to prove I am as smart as the guy in the video but maybe I am not but then again maybe I am.

Of course I had a few beers in me but did not smoke any pot yet. :lol: Maybe what saved the day. :lol:

Yea I know why DA suggested I do not remove the PC board. Because he know I would get really stupid and remove the plastic cover underneath it. I did just that. :lol:

However I managed to get it back on.

Top pic.


Then for the second module I removed just the PC board and the plastic cover is still on there and did not have to frock with it for 15 minutes like the first one.

bottom pic.

I am sorry folks but probably little if no hope for me. I am a stubborn pig headed fool. I could have just cut all the tabs from the board and no shorts. But I wanted to do what the guy did in the video.

Now tomorrow when I am sober and can get what ever he has to mark the tabs like the video I can mark them and order a 80 amp BMS. A simple solder job after that but am putting something to separate those tabs in the center as they are way too close. Some gorilla tape would work or maybe hot glue. I want to upgrade my hot glue gun to a better model that puts out more glue faster.

Looking at skipping right to the 3 kilowatt Brushless motor. I can start the build next week. I need to go to the home depot and get some hardware and order a custom sprocket from electric scooter parts.

I am going 40 mph this summer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twisted:

Not going to let these set backs stop me.

Those pesky mini bikes and gas go carts are done. I will smoke them really bad with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and Haro V3.

3,000W / 60V = 50W * 53V = 2,650W.

That should be good for 43 mph gearing.

Thanks.

LC. out.

6:12AM.

Yea. the modules tested higher than the video. I got 51V and 50.9V with the meter.

I am about to light up that joint and drink a few more beers and will talk with you all tomorrow.

At least I got something accomplished tonight. I just was not in the mood for soldering. Maybe later when I wake up.

Thanks DA. for telling me about the modules.

LC. out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrbsrhugMjo
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrbsrhugMjo

Yea. That kind of stuff you have to rewind and play over a few times.

I like the simulation theory and holographic principle

I watch that close. ,
 
I have just discovered this thread and don't quite know what to think about it.

First thing; I don't want anybody who is new to ebikes to copy anything this guy has done. I give him a 50 50 chance of hurting himself. His batteries have a near 100% chance of burning up.


Sounds like your batteries are junk. I highly suggest you throw them all away and just pedal your bike instead. Your body and mind will thank you.

I spent like $1,000 on batteries just to throw them out ???


Have you ever considered being a stand up comedian ?????

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKpDKoiYlvQ

Here. Check out the video above. You might be surprised how safe LIFEPO4 really is.

I am building the second 10S - 5P pack. Did you even watch the video I did of the first pack ????? The one you gave close to 100% chance of burning up ???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHpr7x-FfRk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37ZIyo3VMIg

I also will need a 10S - 7P Lion pack for my Bafang motors.

Since I am dealing with used cells it will only be good for the single Bafang motor as

41V * 18 amps = 738W. - That is a single Bafang with a 18 amp greentime controller.

download (4).png

2.6A * 4.1V = 10.66 watts * 70 = 746.2W


For the Dual Bafang motors I will be running 12S - LIFEPO4. as each controller can draw 17 amps so 4.1V * 34 = 1,394W.


I am not a complete retard. I did go to community college for electrical technology in 95 and 96 and 2005 - 2006 however was only taking a couple classes a semester as I was working full time. I am an undergraduate.

Hopefully I will have the other 6S-5P - LIFEPO4 pack finished as well as a 10S - 7P but since I am not going with a BMS that will be a 6S - 7P and 4S - 7P with balance wires so I can balance charge with either of my 6S LiPo chargers.

Now if you are talking about throwing out the old used hoverboard packs you do have a valid point but looking at further testing for each 10S - 2P pack. I think the newer packs could have a few bad cells which is triggering the BMS to shut down as no way would a pack that performs great with dual Bafang motors running dual 17 amp controllers one day and then not work at all the next day. That sounds like a few bad apples in the bunch so worth taking the pack apart and testing all cells for voltage and iR.

However I am not the most ambitious person around. I am a lazy alcoholic so that may or may not happen.

Thanks.

LC. out.

9:33 PM.

Still no progress building packs. Just too hot in the e bike workshop. I do not feel like sweating my ass off in there all night. Has been in the high 80s all day. I took the 20" Turbo for a short spin with the 13S - 20 Ah pack earlier as had to go to two ATMs and pay the rent at the post office.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
IMG_0715.JPGIMG_0716.JPGIMG_0718.JPG

As you can see the iR meter does work.

I posted a youtube video several pages back I am not wasting time looking for and it showed that meter compared to one which worked better as the one I bought the display jumped around a lot. However with the alligator clips connected to wires it shows a steady number.

In the video they were pressing the electrodes against the cells. The meter could be off a little but even so it can clearly read the bad cell out of the 5 cells.

That explains a lot as these were in parallel on

IMG_0719.JPG

Even though the bad cell has an internal resistance about four times higher than the other cells it holds a charge.
That would explain why the new 10S packs failed. When discharging that one cell will SAG way more that the others and also discharge faster and the healthy cells will send current to the bad cells instead of to the controller.

I called a place that rebuilds lithium batteries and the guy explained that to me. A place in Texas called Battery Joe. I sent him the videos and pictures of the LIFEPO4 pack I built and will be getting feedback on it.

I bet if I take apart those packs that failed and test for voltage and iR I will find the bad cells as iR will be a lot higher that the healthy cells.

There is a slight chance the Laudation pack is still good. The two hoverboard packs are more suspect than the Laudation. They claim Samsung cells but are they lying. Only one way to find out.

IMG_0720.JPGIMG_0723.JPGIMG_0724.JPG

Well I guess they did not lie.

Now I need to see what garbage cells they used in the Laudation pack. That 14Ah pack is suspect now. Not the name brand Samsung cells.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
IMG_0727.JPGIMG_0728.JPGIMG_0729.JPG


DAAMMMMM !!!

The Laudation pack is also Samsung cells but not the same cells.

I do remember way back in 2016 or 2017 when I ordered the old 10S - 4P hoverboard packs. I ordered two 4.4 Ah SONA which were my first two lithium ion packs made from 18650 cells.

Before that I was running SLA and LiPo.

less than a year or maybe about 6 months I ordered 4 Samsung packs. 4.4 Ah hoverboard packs. three were good but one was defective as cut out. I did not return it as I got a refund for it by the seller.

Basically this is a big mystery but could solve it by testing voltage for each cell bank. I wish there was such a thing as a 10S balancer like the three 6S balancers I own. If I cut all the BMS wires and just removed all three BMSs I could use an external balancer to see each bank as it is not a single cell that failed but a cell bank to lose power like that.

I will be googling 10S balancers to see if they exist. Before breaking these packs down to individual cells I would love to have a 10S balancer.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

The way the Laudation pack is set up it was easy to test voltage for each cell bank. It all looks good. I see nothing wrong with it. Not so for the hoverboard packs though without splitting them in half.

At this point I would suspect the controller for the 800W hub motor tripping the LVC.

Yes I have ran 36V batteries in the past many times with that 800W controller. In fact never ran 48V until I hooked up the 13S - 20Ah pack. The next time I ran it I switched to the 10S pack. I did not switch off the power switch on the controller but used the DC breaker to turn it on. When the switch is on it does not matter if the DC breaker is off when you push the bike the lights on the 4 wire throttle light up.

The fact that the 10S packs I just tore apart ran the Diamondback Outlook with two 17 amp controllers a cycle before failing miserably with the 20" 800W hub motor makes me think the 800W controller saw 53V and something inside it triggered it to see 53V as normal input voltage instead of 42 - 36V so triggered the LVC.

The only problem with that theory is the extra time charging. I was at 41V and charged for > 4 hours and still no green light on the charger. In fact had to do an overnight charge to get the green light.

There is a problem somewhere in those new 10S packs.

IMG_0735.JPG

The 10S - 2P Samsung hoverboard packs are rated at 15 amps. one of them should run a single Bafang with a 18 amp greentime controller for at least 10 mph.

I guess I will need to run each 10S - 2P pack seperate and the Laudation 10S - 4P pack seperate and see what happens. All three in parallel failed. But the guy at Battery Joe said it could be the healthy pack was sending current to the pack or packs that were failing miserably instead of the controller so would explain what happened the other day.

I guess I should also break down the old hoverboard 10S packs and try each one with a single Bafang to see how they run. Any pack that dont run the Bafang at least 10 mph for a mile or so needs to be recycled.

I should be able to salvage some of the old packs and new packs to hook up in parallel. It will buy me some time until this heat wave is over. My electric drill makes noise. I need to use the tiny Dremel wire brush on the tops and bottoms of any 18650 and 26650 cell and then clean with rubbing alcohol and let dry before soldering. I can not run the drill in the middle of the night when folk are sleeping and been too hot to even be in the e bike workshop during the day.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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The 36V "14Ah" Laudation battery has 4p Samsung INR1650-33g for a 12-12.4Ah actual capacity, when new.

Linked you to inexpensive active balancers, up to 17s, that balance 25x faster than your 6s passive balancers?

Charger, through balancing BMS, might take many - many hours to fully charge, due to:
bad cell. overcharging bank, forcing slow bleed down, then pack charge, then another bank bleed down etc. etc.;
self-discharging cell, causing all other banks requiring bleed down before repeated charge\bleed cycles;
etc.;
etc.;
etc.;

Diagnose?:
Recheck and compare bank voltages after letting set several days; (self discharge ⋙ identify and replace bad cell)
Recheck and compare bank voltages after partial discharge; (weak bank ⋙ tack extra cell(s) to bank)
etc;
 
tack extra cell(s) to bank)

Yes.

I was just thinking that when looking at the Laudation pack. Not sure what the BMS is in amps though. I could actually replace the BMS and add extra cells to each bank.

:lol: :lol:

I am learning DA.

First time tearing open factory built packs.

All I need for the spot welder is 8 gauge extension cables , A - 12V car battery and a picnic table outside somewhere at a park. A small fire extinguisher maybe.

It may just work. Who knows. I never tried it. :oops:

Not doing it in my house though. I just do not get out a lot. I have no friends to hang out with. Only people I talk to are on this post and one person on Pirates Tides of Fortune. Dude lives in California. I have no friends to go fishing , bowling or just drink a beer and talk to.

I am ready to order an Ai. Like I said. I will be like Grizzly Adams. But I need solar P and internet. Got to talk to somebody. :lol:

I hope when I too old to wipe my ass an Ai will get r done. :lol: Hopefully in 20 years all humans can just get a new body. A cyborg version of the old body. Nanobots and glands that produce hormones can be implanted as easily as a modern day vaccination. DAMM there are so many whiners out there scared of the needle. :lol: I do not like needles and would never shoot drugs but a vaccination. Not afraid. J &J is like the older vaccinations loke small pox and SARS. just modified for a spike protien.

now people are saying J & J is no good. I dont believe it. I think J & J better than others. Not RNA but based on older technology that proven works. RNA vaccines need booster as not proven. J&J is a one shot deal.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Head in a jar:
VR goggles for games or vacation;
on screen keyboard and eye movement for communication;
brain dead clone with tubes for nutrition (Soylent Green?) and blood flow;
?

Or, clone yourself and teach "yourself" not to make all the stupid mistakes you made, in perpetuity ⋙ immortality?
Oops, forgot, you would never listen, even to yourself?
 
latecurtis said:
I was just thinking that when looking at the Laudation pack. Not sure what the BMS is in amps though. I could actually replace the BMS and add extra cells to each bank.
BMS is clearly labeled 5A charge 15A discharge!
What, you can't read Chinese?
 
BMS is clearly labeled 5A charge 15A discharge!
What, you can't read Chinese?

NO !

These are the wrappers from the packs. The 10S 2P hoverboard packs say 15 amp charge and discharge. Way to high to charge. 15 amps for a 10S 2P pack is not right. Maybe 3 amp charge at the most. I would charge 10S - 2P at 1 or 1.5 amps.

IMG_0737.JPGIMG_0738.JPGIMG_0740.JPGIMG_0739.JPG

OK. Now I see it. It is on the BMS for the Laudation pack. You saw it in the picture I posted on my last post. I was drinking beer then so missed it but see it now. :lol:

Not sure about tearing the hoverboard packs apart. I can test each bank in the Laudation for voltage and iR.

Just do not feel like frocking with all that. I got two tin cans now with 180 cells. 7 - 10S -2P and the Laudation 10S - 4P.

I got about 200 loose 18650 cells as well. Then there is the 80 - LIFEPO4 cells. 30 are in the pack I built. 45 - 26650 cells need to be taken apart and 5 are loose.

Then there is the 24 - LTOs and the power modules.

I only have one running pack. The 13S - 20 Ah pack. :oops:

It is still kind of hot in the e bike workshop. I can strip the wires in there by the air purifier and then test them on the table by the fan. I do have air conditioning so most of the apartment is cool but the e bike workshop and the bathroom are about 85 degrees.

IMG_0744.JPGIMG_0745.JPGIMG_0747.JPG

The fact is the Laudation pack is only 15 amps and will not even run a single Bafang motor as the Bafang controllers are 18 amps for the single set ups as they each have the 18 amp Greentime controller. 10S - 4P should be 20 amps. That tells me they are either fake Samsung cells or used. I don't think I should waste any time on any of those packs. I should re cycle all 180 cells in the metal pails ?????????????

I need to build a 6S - 7P and a 4S - 7P with balance plugs A.S.A.P. At least I can run a single Bafang with that. The Laudation pack is basically useless even if I were to run it in parallel with a pack that I built it is not suitable for the Dual Bafang motors which are 34 amp total. At least with 10S - 7P I can run a single Bafang. Then I can ride the 26" dual suspension as can run 10S - 7P on the front and the 13S - 20Ah pack for the rear hub. Right now the only bike I can ride is the 20" Turbo with the 800W hub motor.

IMG_0749.JPGIMG_0750.JPGIMG_0751.JPGIMG_0752.JPG

The reason for 6S - 7P and 4S - 7P is both will fit inside one black box. That is important for the 26" dual suspension as I need to use both 36V and 48V packs side by side for the 26" dual suspension. The Currie is different as running a single throttle for both the 36V Bafang and 36V - 1,000W rear chain drive. That is why when I do build the second 6S LIFEPO4 for 12S in series they will be exclusively for the Currie.

The 13S power modules will be exclusively for the Haro V3 and 3 kilowatt brushless motor if they will work with the 60V controller. If not I may have no choice but to use a DC booster to boost them to 60V. I am not buying another controller.

I am thinking the LTOs should be exclusively fot the FX-75-5 motor. Since I already have the 28 kilowatt 80V - 350 amp controller I just need a few more LTOs to get to 80V. A booster will not work with that high of current. I do realize that I probably will get very limited range especially if I want a road bike but should be fine for off road two or three miles ???????????????

Yea. Way too much information and an awful lot going on here but would like some feedback on those iR readings as I really do not know what is good bad or just ugly when it comes to iR. It is important as I really need to get something built real soon. Since I am not going with a BMS I need to be sure I use only healthy cells.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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DrkAngel said:
latecurtis said:
I was just thinking that when looking at the Laudation pack. Not sure what the BMS is in amps though. I could actually replace the BMS and add extra cells to each bank.
BMS is clearly labeled 5A charge 15A discharge!
What, you can't read Chinese?
latecurtis said:
file.php


36V x 15A = 540w max output, @ 90% efficiency = 486w best possible motor output.
 
Meter looks like its been dusted off
Well thats a good start to the apartment
I particularly like the bench seat out of a vehicle, Sketchers Wide Fit shoe box but I doubt your a size 13.

Laudation battery pack I have never heard of
which back alley mysterioso did you hand over your benjamins to?
You know what Laudation sounds like right? Caution
 
Don't expect those buckets to do much good when a battery decides to go off. Better keep a couple big sacks of sand around to try to slow down the fire. Do you have insurance for your belongings?

Well 18650 cells do the thermal runaway thing either charging or discharging. Not just sitting but I store them in there just in case. I keep the closet door open so it wont get hotter than 85 degrees in there during the day when it is in the 90s.

Remember I am the idiot that hooked the positive and negative bullets together for a direct short back in NY and was outside and had no fire extinguisher. There was a lot of smoke but not a lot of flame. When I managed to disconnect them which took at least 10 seconds as they were fused together. I did not get shocked but cut my fingers on the plastic which was sharp. The plastic that holds bullets together. There is like zero danger of anything happening while 18650 cells are stored unless it is really hot like over 120 degrees F.

I just soldered 7 - 18650 cells but just the tops. The Weller can do the tops of 26650 cells but came with the one size screwdriver tip which happens to be larger than the top of an 18650 cell.

I had to use the 60 watt iron with the biggest tip. The one DA. said was only good for cutting plastic. I did notice even though the solder joints took around 10 seconds that the cell did not get that hot. That is because there are vents on the top. There is not that much heat transferred down into the cell like the bottom. Also less surface area so the smaller iron works ok for that.

Now once I get all the positive tops finished I will break out the Weller which will do all the bottoms in about 5 seconds or less. I need to go to Wall Mart and get more solder. I am using the Wall-Mart solder for the 18650 cells and saving the good solder roll I bought for the 26650 cells as it has more lead in it and sticks better.

Yea I am sure most on here will disagree with me and that's fine but at this point I need a 6S - 7P pack built and a 4S - 7P - A.S.A.P so really do not care if I impress anyone or not. Just like the 26650 pack I built I will be able to pull the packs out of the storage box and inspect each solder joint. I am NOT covering them with hot glue , liquid tape or anything for that matter as if a problem occurs where a joint needs to be re-soldered it can happen quickly without tearing the pack apart.

I know it is NOT recommended to build packs in this manner but if you follow a few simple rules there is a degree of safety.
The most important especially when bare wires are attached is ALWAYS have the positive side facing the same way when stacking. It will prevent a short. I stack them up and wires are attached but if done like in my pictures they will not short.

DO NOT solder or stack cells while drinking or using cannabis. It is ok to test cells for voltage and iR but soldering and stacking cells requires a sober clear head.

I was parallel charging last night and today to try and get all the cells over 4V. Then will re test iR. for all cells when voltage = or > 4V. I cut the wires too short ( bottom pic ) so will be cutting each wire at 2" from now on (second pic from top) When hooking the banks in parallel I can wrap the wires from each cell around a length of wire for the series connection and then apply some solder. Then wrap a longer strand around all that , then liquid tape and finally electric tape.


Just like the 26650 packs the wiring will be for at least 50 amps but these 18650 packs will probably only see about 20 or 25 amps. I am also LiLo charging as the cells are old and used so LiLo balance with the LiPo charger is the safer way to go. Also will get about twice as many cycles as charging at 4.2V per cell.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FarfmYwPq7I


Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Back from Wall-Mart.

Well the fact is I should never have used the 10S-8P pack with the 1,800W brushless motor and 1,500W controller.

80 cells = 800W. NOT 1,500W. That was battery abuse and why I am down to just the 13S battery now. My fault not anyone else.

Obviously there are exceptions like the 13S power modules that have the super high discharge cells but normal and used 18650 cells are 10W each as a rule of thumb. 2.5 amps * 4V = 10W.

So right now I am building a 700W battery suitable for a single Bafang motor. 40V * 18 amps = 720 watts.

I will need two for the dual Bafangs on the Diamondback Outlook or the Giant Roam with the dual e bikeling motors. 40V * 22A = 880W. The e bikeling motors have 22 amp controllers so may draw a little more so will not be wanting to go full throttle and will be pedal assisting up hills.

I will be soldering that then adding a wire and then liquid tape and electric tape 12 hours later. This will take some time. Short cuts will only lead to poor performance or failure.

This will take forever and ever. I re tested voltage and iR and got almost the same exact measurements with iR. Like instead of 00.7 I might get 00.8. Voltage was 4.04 with the meter that measures iR. It was 4.0 with the red multimeter. I will go with the higher number 4.04V as was LiLo charged at 4.1V so makes sense the red meter could be off.

I need to do a discharge test on all the 10S - 2p packs. For the five old hoverboard packs 200W each and measure V - SAG and see if the LVC shuts the pack down. I could do the same with the two new hoverboard packs as they are also 10S - 2P. The Laudation will need a 400W discharge as it is 10S - 4P. Whatever packs pass the test I can parallel them up and recycle the rest.

How would I go about doing this without spending a small fortune ???????????? Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

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Yeah that explains a lot
Using a battery without a BMS
on a controller that asks more of the battery then the battery can take.
36V 15A 20Ah battery with no BMS on a 36V 30A controller will destroy the battery in no time.

Yet you still use terms like 800W battery
So yeah the mistake will happen again.
Maybe the next fail will be using a 48V battery with no BMS on a 36V controller
you'll drain every drop out of the 48V battery real real good.
 
Yeah that explains a lot
Using a battery without a BMS
on a controller that asks more of the battery then the battery can take.
36V 15A 20Ah battery with no BMS on a 36V 30A controller will destroy the battery in no time.

Yet you still use terms like 800W battery
So yeah the mistake will happen again.
Maybe the next fail will be using a 48V battery with no BMS on a 36V controller
you'll drain every drop out of the 48V battery real real good.

All the packs that failed had BMSs. I bought those off of e bay. The Laudation and the two hoverboard packs.

The old 10S - 10P were five 10S - 2P hoverboard packs in parallel and each with its own BMS. The last time I charged those they ran with no problems. I just do not like the idea of playing Russian Roulette with them. If there were a way to test each 10S - 2P pack at 200W - 250W to see if they run or shut down then I would feel better about using them. The same with the newer packs that failed.

The packs I am building now do not have BMSs but will have balance plugs. It takes only a second to stop , turn off the controller and hook up a balancer or even better to wire up a meter which can show voltage as well as voltage SAG onboard. I do not like the power meter DA. recommended because the screen is way too small and not bright enough to see in the day time. A multi - meter would work better but if a different power meter with a much larger display and lights up bright to see when the sun is out that would be most desirable.

I need to get to work on these batteries.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Yeah
Just takes a second, until your tired from a day of riding and pull the wire instead of the plug
Thats what happened to me while switching over batteries while riding.
Luckily I brought along some electrical tape and there was enough wire still connected to XT90 to wrap a stripped wire around it and tape it. Of course you take a minute to calm down and say to self, self dont go full power and what happens a minute later? going full power :lol:
Neways I got home with no issues, I even did some bumpy stuff to see if my handiwork stayed together.

BTW sometimes, BMS' can do more damage then a battery without a BMS.
 
Yeah
Just takes a second, until your tired from a day of riding and pull the wire instead of the plug
Thats what happened to me while switching over batteries while riding.


That might have happened before I started soldering the wires to the XT60 plugs. Now I solder and wrap several thin strips electric tape. Probably strong enough to drag someone down the road. :lol:

I have had no luck with batteries this week. The battery in the van is dead and just bought it a year ago. I have not been running the van and using it to store my bikes and at night the lights come on inside so I can see and has power locks but this just dont make any sense as I started it a couple days ago and let it run with the lights off for about 5 minutes.

What is worse it is not charging at all. If I find out someone opened my hood and switched batteries I will definatlly murder them. I am not even joking.

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Also the LiPo charger will not charge my SLAs. I bought two 22 Ah SLAs to power those 150W heaters last winter and one of the SLAs was cracked on the bottom. I may have dropped it so had to throw it out. I hooked up my DC converter and 1 amp trickle charger for over 12 hours and the battery under the hood was only 5.5V when I went to Wallmart and down to 3.5V when I just checked it now.

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I had the 22 Ah - SLA on PB charge overnight at 2.5 amps and when I hooked it up was 12.58V and after 8 hours sleep 12.58V. I hooked it up to the 150W converter and plugged in the 1 amp trickle charger. There is no way the current could be discharging the van battery but just now checked the 22Ah SLA voltage and was 12.34V so discharged a little.

Where the frock is all that energy going. when I lock the van up after putting my e bikes away the lights always go out automatically. No way it should be draining that low. What is worse I might lose my car insurance over this. I have a by mile device which plugs into a port under the dash. It is why my insurance is only $19 a month because I hardly ever drive it. It requires constant power as sends a signal to Liberty Mutual insurance. A long interruption of power could cost me a lot of money if they think I unhooked it to do a road trip or something.

I just do not understand this. I went to Wall-Mart and bought that.

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https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Jump-Starter-and-Power-Station-1200-Peak-Battery-Amps-with-500W-Inverter-and-120-PSI-Compressor-J5CPDE/908537063

I need to unpack it and charge it overnight. I will be irate if I lose my insurance over this. I unhooked the 22Ah SLA and just took pictures. The red light on the port was blinking red. The amber light on the trickle charger indicates it was charging and the green light was on the 150W inverter which means it was working. It turns red once the 12V power supply it hooks up to goes less than 11.5V or 12V. I used it all winter.

Tomorrow I will try and jump it I guess and am really hoping I can keep the battery fully charged with this 12V power bank. It has a 500W DC to AC converter so should run the 1 amp trickle charger for several days and should be able to bring it up stairs and charge overnight.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

8/16/21.

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Yea. I'm screwed. Will probably get an e mail my car insurance is cancelled. 40 frocking hours. are they frocking serious !!!!!

I just wasted $100 bucks on that shit. !!!!!!!

I just feel like killing somebody. Was trying to eat healthy tonight and go to Taco bell and get a chicken burrito with no sour cream and cheese , just loaded with veggies and some rice with black beans like I did last week and the assholes locked the door at 8PM. Was going thue the drive thru but had second thoughts as was on the 20" Turbo and if they refused to serve me I saw myself taking my chain and padlock and swinging it thru the take out window at somebody's head.

I ended up at Rallies getting a Buford burger and fries and a coke. Buford burger is a double quarter pounder with enough grease and cholesterol to kill a horse.

On top of all that I think my wife has COVID19. Probably the Delta variant. She has been really sick since yesterday. She has all the symptoms. We got the Johnson and Johnson vaccine two months ago Friday. The visiting physicians gave us the shot two months ago and were here Friday the 13th. :roll: Probably brought the delta variant with them.

Hopefully she wont die. People who are vaccinated are not supposed to go to the hospital. It is supposed to be like the flue. Both her sons call almost every day so will tell them if she gets worse. She has an oxygen machine , a nebulizer and rescue inhaler as she has COPD. but she is so stubborn. She hardly ever uses the oxygen. Basically there is really not much the ER could do she cant do here. Except force her to use the oxygen which might have to happen if she dont get better.

It just is not my day. I just want to go out and murder somebody. Sick of shit. I slept until almost 8PM today. My mental health is really shot at this point. No frocking friends. Deleted my Facebook account as sick of everybody. So called friends and family. What a joke !!!

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
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