new eZip motor

[Chalo]

I am starting to think that LIFEPO4 is junk.

You're getting closer. Try to think of something all your problem packs have in common.

could have a really nice car with all the money I wasted.

Not if you'd dicked around with the car as much as you did with e-bikes. It would already be in a junkyard somewhere.

 

[latecurtis]

You're getting closer. Try to think of something all your problem packs have in common.

Don't really know.

I know that the 10S - 8P packs I bought about 18 months ago were factory spot welded packs. They failed after being fully charged. Sure I ran them kind of hard but the old 10S - SONA and Samsung hoverboard packs I bought 5 - 1/2 years ago I think were still running. I ran them hard also for years. I just stopped running them about 5 or 6 months ago as I was not sure they are still safe after all those cycles.

I was out all day riding the 20" Turbo with the 13S - 20Ah pack. The good 6S LIFEPO4 pack read 3.6V each cell. Well that is what the LiPo charger said. the other damaged pack read almost 3.6V this morning but just hooked up the balancer and at 3.3 something. Neither of the packs will hold a voltage. No matter how high they are charged they go back to 3.3 something. 63 to 70% is the most they will hold.

I guess the Weller damaged the packs as well. I do not see how as the cells felt barley warm but if they can not even hold a 3.5V charge after being charged at 3.6V then they were either garbage when they were shipped or soldering damaged all the cells including the pack I soldered with the Weller.

I just do not know.

Anyway I bought an ammo box at Wall-Mart tonight. Cant post any more pics as my USB port no longer works when I plug my camera into it. It is just a standard ammo box. I can run LiPo or Lion in a front basket. A front basket is the safest place as almost sitting on the pack when on the top bar and if behind me it could start my ass on fire as well but up front I will see the smoke and can stop the bike and get away from the smoke. I may get an on board fire extinguisher.

It looks like I have no choice but to run Lion or LiPo as I doubt I will get any use at all from the LIFEPO4 packs. I am still charging them though. I don't really want to push a bike 3 or 4 miles again but might try to make a Wall-Mart run with them. That is 2.5 miles.

All I know is they ran at 40V or 3.3V per cell but as soon as they went below 38V or around 3.2V per cell they turned into 3 year old SLAs that need to be recycled. The speciation's on the cells state they can be run to down to 2.5V. That is a joke. They were DEAD as hell below 3.2V so I know they lied about that.

I know Lion will run the e bike at 35V. LIFEPO4 can not at < 38V. The SAG and cells drop ridiculously low. frocking garbage !!!!!! If they leave me stranded again I will leave them on the side of the road !!!!!

11:34 PM.

Well right now the pack I soldered with the Weller reads at 97% Three cell banks are 96% and three are 97%. If they do not go down to 80 or 70% overnight then the Weller did NOT damage that pack.

The other pack is on the charger and probably will be until tomorrow. If I can get that over 90% tomorrow I might be able to get a few miles out of it. Not sure. I cant post any more pictures as my USB ports are shot.



Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Who knows, just like your solder its a tossup 60% to 40%

They wont hold a voltage much above 3.3V and are worthless below 3.2V. I am wondering if soldering is the cause or were they complete junk to start with.

 

[latecurtis]

Well I got 96 to 97% on the pack I soldered with the Weller. 3.527 to 3.580V. Took like 4 attempts and almost 24 hours on the charger to get that though. The question is will they still read > 3.5V tomorrow ?????

The pack I suspect might be damaged will be charging all night and hopefully tomorrow will be close to the same as the pack I soldered with the Weller. I sure as hell am NOT getting my hopes up though.

Those specifications are the biggest joke I ever saw. No way they could power a cell phone at 2.5V. They were as DEAD as 20 year old SLAs that went past 1,000 cycles < 3.8V per cell. As soon as that pack went below 3.8V some cells dropped even lower and very unstable.

What I need is a better charger. That much I know. The other thing that might actually force these packs to work together would be that.



However I can never get a straight answer. I know how a BMS works and of course know how to balance with a balance plug but the active balancer is brand new to me. I just know I saw one that I can just plug my 6S balance plug into. I will have to search for it again. It was like $40 for one though and will need two. A proper charger is $40 as well. Charges to 3.6V per cell the first time. Not after 4 or 5 attempts with the stupid LiPo chargers.

I just do not feel like spending any more money. Especially if it will not work or can not use it !!!!!!! Will that work or do I need a 12S active balancer ?? If so will I be able to plug in my balance plugs or will I have to cut the plugs off and solder all the wires ??????

Will that work or not ????? Do I charge and run with the same wires or is there separate wires for charging ??????

Also I have three 10S - 42V lithium ion chargers just laying around. No 10S Lion packs that I am currently running. With an active balancer or an external balancer could I just use a 42V charger ????????? Or do I have to buy a fourth charger

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Poor soul, have you listened to nothing I've tried to explain to you about LiFe?

 

[latecurtis]

Poor soul, have you listened to nothing I've tried to explain to you about LiFe?

You said they charge at a higher voltage like SLA,

I remember you saying that.

I think you said they are safe also and that they are hard to balance.

I did not realize just how hard though.

I also remember you saying that they can be discharged really low and not suffer a lot of damage like SLA but I did not realize how erratic and unbalanced it gets below 3.2V per cell. I don't see how it is even usable below 3V for anything. The discharge rate would be in milliamps if it trips a 36V controllers LVC below 3.2V per cell.

Also you said it has a low energy density compared to Lion or Lipo. Lipo has the best energy density but the most dangerous followed by 18650 cells. LIFEPO4 and LTOs are the safest batteries but the lowest energy density.

I found a active balancer on e bay that is affordable and am looking for a charger.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313538382949?hash=item4900580c65:g:i8IAAOSwYl9gqMo-




https://www.ebay.com/itm/254989088778?hash=item3b5e88b80a:g:hmcAAOSwnU1gqeJ8





Please let me know if I got that right and what I missed. Also the active balancers. Will they work in series. The charger I posted is shipped from USA as the cheaper chargers are on that slow boat from China that takes at least a month. The balancers are from China though. Like to get from USA warehouse if possible. The one I posted said it may not be here until October. I am looking for a week or less from USA vender.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Look at and reference the LiFePO4 charge\discharge graph I posted up for you, back near June.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea. That would explain what happened. After 3.2V it drops like a rock.

I got both packs charged to around 3.6V now.

Perhaps it is not the LiPo charger that is at fault here. It looks like it could be me.

I am not charging Lion I am charging LIFE so will need to turn up the amps and actually use some of the 400 watts the charger is capable of. According to the specs. It says 3.8 amps per cell. My charger should do 2 amps per cell easily. 21.6V * 10 amps = 216 amps. However If I hook up both chargers to both packs the Sky charger is only 200W so wont do 10 amps but should do 8. 21.6 * 8 = 172.8W.

I started charging 6S - 5P at 2 amps then switched to 6 amps. I can go higher. 8 amps should work then.
I need to deal with my faults and spending money every time I have an issue is not always the answer.

I am going to run these today and run them hard , but only when I need to. That will let me know if one or more of the packs are defective or not. I only need to use 3/4 to full throttle up a few hills. Before and after the hills I can run the Bafang solo but do want to see a top speed on the flat at least once for the video.

I have some time to prepare so will have both cameras onboard and hopefully my phone will run the GPS speedometer. If not it is time to upgrade from an Obama phone to a real phone as I got lost at night in the dark with my van a few days ago and almost ran out of gas. I called customer service and was told that I had to take the phone apart and remove the sim card. I do not know how and would probably break the phone trying.

I left it in the van and was completely dead yesterday but charged it over night. I have to have a GPS at least as I get lost. I can not expect a BOOST or other phone store to show me how the thing comes apart. I really do not like phones. I have no patience for them when they do not work.

I just soldered 12 gauge wires to the power meter. I may or may not have a speedometer but should have the power meter to work with in the video. Both cameras are on charge.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Yea. That would explain what happened. After 3.2V it drops like a rock.

42V ÷ 12s = 3.5V
3.5V = 95% charged

So ... 42V Li-Ion charger should work well with 12s LiFe
No need for balancing with matched LiFe, Standard 3.60-3.65V equalizes retained voltage near 3.40V.

 

[latecurtis]

Well. I made the trip and am back home. I shot a video but the second video with the camera sunglasses did not shoot. The camera must have not been on. It was too brite out to see the tiny blue light which says it is recording. However I did get a video going up the hills and the power meter for total output voltage and amps. The problem is the power meter was shot on the way back and the video on the way there but are the same hills basically so no big deal.

I hit 28 mph on the flat and took the hills about 24 mph half way up then backed off the throttle and rolled over the top about 16 mph. The good news is there is power but the bad news is the LIFEPO4 are low capacity. No where near the capacity they are rated for. I only used both motors up the hills and about 1/3 mile on the flat. 80% of the time I was just using the front Bafang.

Useful range looks like 10 miles. We know what happens when I go much lower than they are now. The good news is the cells look stable. Also who knows. These packs are just getting broke in so battery chemistry changes. I might get 15 miles out of them later on. Also when they failed they were only half way charged on the virgin run. After a few cycles capacity could increase.

So ... 42V Li-Ion charger should work well with 12s LiFe
No need for balancing with matched LiFe, Standard 3.60-3.65V equalizes retained voltage near 3.40V.

Sounds good. I might try it overnight when they are like around 3.3V but the 42V charger is 1 amp charging 12 cell banks of 5 cells in parallel. Yea. Might do the trick in 12 to 16 hours. For right now it is 5:07 PM and thinking about making a Wall-Mart run in about 3 hours. I am trying balance charge at 8 amps right now. The other LiPo charger is not set up to charge yet as I have to dig for a banana plug. I only got one. I am going to see what the voltage is for each pack after charging for 90 minutes.

Ok. I am working on the video now.. Should be up within the hour.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKPkSO-0riU

Still thinking about LiPo though. But I got the 13S power modules. I could save my money and order a BMS for those. Or I could order two external balancers.

The LIFEPO4 wont need any external balancers. The cell banks seem to be getting more stable as I break them in. As long as I do not run them low they should be ok. For cargo and < 30 mph daily reliable transportation they might last awhile. For racing gas go carts and mini bikes and 30 - 40 mph I will need the power modules or LiPo.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Ah yes, the old plastic milk crate as a handlebar basket, classic move :thumb:
Those train tracks at an angle are always something to pay attention to.
https://youtu.be/QX1RP-Ov1yc?t=9
https://youtu.be/8UQWYbCix5Y?t=16

 

[latecurtis]

Yea. I know every part of that road. I know where I can go fast and do it safely. I would never go that fast down those hills if there was heavy brush and woods as any critter can cause a serious bike accident. A rabbit could flip a bike or cause a big wipe out. A deer is solid muscle and tendons. A humans bones would snap , crackle and pop slamming into a deer at 25 to 30 mph.

The deer would be long gone when the meat wagon shows up. I know as I hit a deer by accident with a 4,000 + pound 1982 Cadillac Deville back in 96 and had to junk the car. Was doing 55 in a rain storm on the highway back in NY. The thing came out of nowhere and ran right in front of the car. It happened so fast there was no way of avoiding it. Just a brown blur on the passenger side front.

I backed up and looked around as was going to throw it in the trunk and at least get some steak out of the deal and maybe sell the fur. That frocker was nowhere to be found. The grill was bashed in and the passenger side door never opened again.

Thanks.

LC. out,

 

[Chalo]

I know as I hit a deer by accident with a 4,000 + pound 1982 Cadillac Deville back in 96 and had to junk the car. Was doing 55 in a rain storm on the highway back in NY. The thing came out of nowhere and ran right in front of the car. It happened so fast there was no way of avoiding it.

I've seen cops write that down in their citation book as "driving too fast for conditions". There are probably some Officer Inbred Jeds out there who'd consider it an act of God, but let's be straight-- sometimes the proof of driving irresponsibly is in the results.

 

[latecurtis]

I've seen cops write that down in their citation book as "driving too fast for conditions". There are probably some Officer Inbred Jeds out there who'd consider it an act of God, but let's be straight-- sometimes the proof of driving irresponsibly is in the results.

Yea.

The speed limit on that road was 65 I think. I was doing 55 or less. I was coming home from college. Raining like hell. I had the defoggers on.

The point is you do not know what critter you could collide with on a country road. Car or e bike. That and I did not even get one juicy steak out of the deal. That sucked.

But with an an e bike it could suck even more. It could easily lead to a fatality. . Back in upstate NY. Caroga lake back in the 1980s we saw a huge black bear. At least 500 pounds cross the road. Took up half a lane.

Imagine running into that bear at 35 mph. !!!! You would be a pile in the woods with flies buzzing around it the next day. :lol:

I saw like 10 deer in two days only a few miles away on a bike trail a few months back.

I like to go fast on an e bike but also like to make sure I do not have any type of collision with anything. :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I see deer feet from the house window all the time.
Quite common for me, its nothing, to me its like seeing a bird so common who cares but most people its like seeing Big Foot, they stop in amazement and snap pictures, sometimes blocking the pathway which they'd do anyways without any wildlife attractions because they are stupid. Common sense is not so common. Heck I've seen the stupid stop and chitchat on the city pathways around blind corners and over the crest/middle of hills.
Go to the tourist towns in mountains and it gets even worse, they stop on the highway causing major safety concerns, or the worst of the worst feed the wild life.
We are encroaching on the wildlifes lands yet we kill the animals for being their natural self.

 

[latecurtis]

We are encroaching on the wildlifes lands yet we kill the animals for being their natural self.

Yea. I like critters. Sometimes better than some people.

I wish I could have worked on a wildlife preserve protecting endangered species. Relocating animals to increase the population. Ect.

Working outdoors as a career in the fresh air is a big plus in itself. Photography and some hunting when necessary. In a lot of states deer population must be hunted as the result of over population is slow starvation in a lot of cases so hunting can be a good thing if the privilege is not abused.

Anyway I was hoping for an answer to the question about active balancers in series or parallel.

There is the illustration I did for series but for the power modules it would be a parallel connection.

I know BMSs work in series or parallel so I do not see why active balancers would not work but I am still seeking a straight answer. I was also thinking about using two external 6S balancers while charging 12S in series. LIFE or Lion. Will it work ?

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Straight answer ... unless you have defective cells you do not want an active balancer, even then, you "need" to repair your battery, not "patch" it with a balancer.

 

[latecurtis]

Straight answer ... unless you have defective cells you do not want an active balancer, even then, you "need" to repair your battery, not "patch" it with a balancer.

Yea. I am confused.

I guess I will rephrase my question.

Is an active balancer better than a BMS for keeping a pack balanced ?????

Please read the rest of the post though before answering that so you know what my intensions are or reasons for wanting to use an active balancer. There are several good reasons.

I wont be using one for the two 6S LIFE packs I just built. About those.

I know there is an old saying "If it is not broke , Don't fix it. There really is not any evidence that any of the LIFEPO4 cells in the two packs I built are even damaged.

In fact the pack that contains the cells I heated up excessively with the 60 watt iron before I bought the Weller balance charged in about two hours. The pack I soldered with the Weller took over 5 hours.

I did not run them yesterday and finished charging them the night before that so like 44 hours they have been sitting after balance charging both packs. I will check the cells and total voltage now to see if there was any self discharge.

OK. The pack I soldered with the Weller is at 96%. 21.16V lowest cell - 94% - 3.472V highest cell 96% 3.548V

the other pack is 95% 20.70V - lowest cell - 91% - 3.409V highest cell 3.478V.

Thinking about running them about 5 miles or so and hooking up the 42V charger and see if they self balance to 3.4V like you said would happen.

42V ÷ 12s = 3.5V
3.5V = 95% charged

So ... 42V Li-Ion charger should work well with 12s LiFe
No need for balancing with matched LiFe, Standard 3.60-3.65V equalizes retained voltage near 3.40V.

That would be a simple way to do it.

However if there is a low cell I could use one of my external balancers.

My question is ; Is it ok to externally balance two 6S packs with two external balancers when the packs are in series charging at 1 amp - 42V. ????????


Now back to active balancers.

I was thinking about old used 18650 cells. I have a ton of those. Obviously some need recycling and some could be used for many more cycles.

The really old hoverboard packs which consist of two 10S - 2P - SONA packs and three Samsung - 10S - 2P. Please note that all those packs worked perfectly and were run up until 5 or 6 months ago I think. I have been storing those as not sure if safe to continue using them.

Then there is the 10S - 4P Laudation pack and two 10S - 2P hoverboard packs. I was running them all in parallel for 10S - 8P.

They failed after a full charge and when separated each pack read at 42V. I just stored them but did take the Laudation pack apart. I did not separate the cells just all the wrap and insulation. It is in a plastic box so will not short. The box is in a tin can.

Those new packs were run hard with the 1,500W brushless controller. But not sure which cells are damaged or could it be a BMS failure ?????

I do know that a BMS does not always keep a pack balanced. I was told an active balancer would work much better. Also a BMS needs to charge 18650 cells to 4.2V just to balance properly. An active balancer can balance the pack during discharge.

That should be a HUGE advantage as can charge 18650 cells to 3.92V or 4.1V and get double to 4X charge cycles. There is also a safety factor to consider. 18650 cells are much safer < 4V than >4V. In fact > 3.5V and < 4V the chances of thermal runaway decreases by about 90%. I think. It would make sense.

Also when running an old pack 10 or 20 miles from home if the BMS shuts the pack down due to imbalance I would be stranded.
With an active balancer the chances greatly increase that the pack will remain balanced and I will not have to walk or push a heavy e bike for 10 or 20 miles.

I would like some feedback on this. I have 180 used cells. seven 10S - 2P hoverboard packs and the 10S - 4P Laudation pack.
On top of that I own about 200 - 18650 cells. Some are already soldered and are at 1S - 7P. others have a wire or two soldered. I abandoned the 18650 project to build the 26650 LIFE packs.

I just need to know what to do with all these 18650 cells ? I do have a good idea how to build a 14S - 7P - 18650 pack.



I will be using glue and zip ties to attach each cell bank to a piece of 1/4" plywood. Then build a wood box for each panel to slide down into.

Once all the series connections and balance wires are finished and power / charge wires are finished I would slide the wood box inside of the ammo box with the power and charge wires extended out of a small hole I will drill.

It will be 14S with a 14S active balancer but will use my 13S - 54.6V charger so it charges to 3.9V per cell.


I am also considering more 26650 cells and a 60V - 18S pack with an active balancer and 80 amp fuse. I will be using the same blueprint but instead of three panels of five it will be three panels of six with the active balancer on the end so will need to make it slightly longer for room to mount it.

I thought up that blueprint walking to Wall-Mart yesterday. Basically it would be physically impossible for a short to happen. The balance wires will be taped and or glued so impossible to short out. I might need a different size ammo box. Not sure. I have not done any physical measurements yet.

The new blueprint will also allow higher discharge with less heat as there is space between the cell banks. They are not stacked on top of each other. The two LIFE packs I built I will be running < 40 amps so will be fine. The last video I posted proved that. I will only use those for the Currie in the video and single or dual Bafang motors which is 34 amps total. But any packs I build from now on will use the new blueprint and am thinking active balancers.

Please let me know. I would appreciate feedback on this as I have a TON of 18650 cells so do not see any sense in buying LiPo.


thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Straight answer ... unless you have defective cells you do not want an active balancer, even then, you "need" to repair your battery, not "patch" it with a balancer.

Yea. I am confused.

I guess I will rephrase my question.

Is an active balancer better than a BMS for keeping a pack balanced ?????

A proper built battery should not become unbalanced. No need for any balancing!

 

[markz]

You need to measure the internal resistance of all the 18650's you have and go from there.
Either that or charge every single one of them to the same voltage say 3.85V and let them sit for months and months at normal temperature.
You could do a cycle test where you cycle each one and measure voltage, current over time all at the same current and even measure temperature because thats easy to do. You could do up a nice graph and post your handiwork. Charge/Discharge each one.
I think those cheap RC chargers can do that but I don't know how accurate those are.
I've seen other people do it posting graphs, but I dont know what they are using.
Do a search on Endless Sphere, and also check out this website https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR18650-25R%202500mAh%20%28Green%29%20UK.html
and Hobbyking forums https://www.rcgroups.com/hobbyking-441/
A good user name search for ES would be Doctorbass

 

[DrkAngel]

Straight answer ... unless you have defective cells you do not want an active balancer, even then, you "need" to repair your battery, not "patch" it with a balancer.

Yea. I am confused.

I guess I will rephrase my question.

Is an active balancer better than a BMS for keeping a pack balanced ?????

A proper built battery should not become unbalanced. No need for any balancing!

Well, OK ... If your battery is slightly defective a BMS is "needed", (actually a repair is needed!), if severely defective, a BMS and an active balancer might be wanted.

 

[latecurtis]

Well, OK ... If your battery is slightly defective a BMS is "needed", (actually a repair is needed!), if severely defective, a BMS and an active balancer might be wanted.

I did not know it was possible to run both. I thought it was one or the other ???

It is not the LIFEPO4 packs I am concerned with. I think they are ok. It is the 10S - 4P Laudation pack and the two hoverboard packs they were in parallel with. They were not discharging much at all. The bike barley moved. They were all at 42V fully charged but failed. Not sure why. It could be a faulty BMS.

Like I said I have seven 10S -2P hoverboard packs and a 10S - 4P Laudation pack. 180 total cells. 100 that never failed.

The 5+ year old packs - two 10S - 2P SONA and three 10S - 2P Samsung were still charging and running about 5 or 6 months ago.

I just do not know how safe they are. Capacity is somewhere around 50% from when they were new.

I just do not know if I should recycle all of them or keep running the old ones and tear apart the new packs that failed ?????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

As I told you many many days ago, even before you tore all your batteries apart, try them on one of your many other 36V eBikes.

Chances of multiple batteries packs failing identically at the exact same time is slim, they all had BMSs(?), chances of something on the bike failing is exponentially higher. I would bet, you tore all your batteries apart for nothing!

 

[latecurtis]

As I told you many many days ago, even before you tore all your batteries apart, try them on one of your many other 36V eBikes.

Chances of multiple batteries packs failing identically at the exact same time is slim, they all had BMSs(?), chances of something on the bike failing is exponentially higher. I would bet, you tore all your batteries apart for nothing!

There are three packs that are suspect. The only three packs that ever failed just running and charging.
The 10S - 4P Laudation and the two 10S - 2P Hoverboard packs. I only tore apart the 10S - 4P Laudation.

At first they cut out when running the 1,500W brushless controller. That was my fault even hooking them up to that. They did not just die though. They cut out for a second and when I took it easy on them they still ran.

I ran them on the Diamondback Outlook with the Dual Bafang motors once or twice after that with no issues then about two weeks after that they failed to put out any sufficient power running the 20" Turbo with the 800W controller. It was like almost completely dead SLA. It did not trigger the LVC. It just would only go two or three mph. Each pack tested at 42V.

I have ran the 20" Turbo about 6 or 8 times since then with the 13S - 20 Ah pack with no problem which rules out the 800W controller and the bike. The 20" Turbo runs perfect with the 13S pack. Lots of power and great on hills. I am looking at building a 14S - 7P pack to replace the 20 Ah pack when it fails.

In fact I just woke up and am drinking coffee. I will dig out all eight 10S packs and test them and then we can go from there.
I still have a ton of 18650 cells besides that. Some I combined in 1S - 7P cell banks and some that are loose. I tested iR and standing voltage several times for most of those.

I will post pictures.

Thanks for posting.

9/11/21

Yea. I cant believe it is 20 years. Tomorrow will be 20 years since WE SHOULD HAVE LAUNCHED THE NUKES !!!!!

Those countries would probably still be glowing green if it was my decision. A radioactive waste land.

Anyway I am really lazy. I have not been doing anything.

Maybe tonight I will check out those old packs.

Thanks.

LC. out.

5:47 PM.

Well maybe not.

I just watched this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFvmgSbbcHs

I need to recycle on Monday I think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOwhah8AifU

Yea. Getting rid of 18650 batteries sounds like a great idea. I don't even know if I should be running the 13S - 20 AH pack anymore.

I need to order more 26650 cells.

I really don't know how it is even legal to sell LiPo or Lion.

I need to build a 15S - LIFEPO4 pack for 48V and an 18S for 60V. I would like to use both a BMS and an active balancer if possible. That way I can just plug and play. The packs will always be balanced.

I don't even know if I should run the power modules.

I am not sure if I can ship 18650 cells and packs but would like to get rid of every 18650 cell and pack good or bad. I would gladly trade any good cells/packs for 26650 - LIFEPO4 from Battery Hookup.

I already have 12S - LIFEPO4 - I will be building 15 and 18S. I will be using my new blueprints and soldering all the wires for 60 amp capability. I will be using four strands of 16 gauge wire for each cell bank and soldering each wire from each cell to it.

I think we should turn this adventure into a business. Please help me to patent this and I can build a 1S - 5P - LIFEPO4 bank every day and the last week of the month put the packs together ship them out the last day of each month. I just need a business partner. I was thinking DA because he is close , has a computer store and can be in charge of sales.

We can charge $200 plus materials and the customers will need to pay shipping. We can each make $100 on each 18S pack I build.

$80 for each 15S pack and $50 for each 12S pack.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Yea.

It would cost a lot of money to buy all those LIFEPO4s

Also I just calculated the weight of a 60V 19 Ah LIFEPO4 pack.

6S - 5P = 30 cells so 18S = 90 cells @ 100 grams per cell



90 * 100G = 9,000G