new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/20 New build pending.

My friend Randy and I have been working on the Diamond Back for two days now and it still is not running. We installed the motor yesterday with the 80 tooth sprocket and the chain kept popping off. Today we used the front wheel from the pair I paid $30 for. Like the rear wheel it spins a little off. It needs the spokes adjusted.

The front wheel center part where the spokes attach to is about the size of a beer can around. The only reason why I paid $30 for the pair. I had it in the back of my mind to drill three holes in it and bolt the 62 tooth sprocket to it. That is exactly what we did. I also completely reinstalled the 1,000W MY1020 motor.

I had to really beef up the hardware as the motor was moving up and down popping off the chain. When I finally got the motor somewhat stabilized the 62 tooth wheel sprocket with the bolt on deal failed miserably. We called it a day as it got dark. We have been working from about 4pm until dark two days now. Randy plans on retightening the three bolts and adding three self-tapping screws for the next test run.

I also need to bring the battery charger over there to charge the SLAs. Hopefully it will be running soon. I gave Randy that Shumaker 12V trickle car charger. The one I damaged the 22Ah SLAs with a while ago. He needs it for his car or four wheeler. I am also giving him the two little 24V motors, controllers and the 24V throttle if he needs it so he can build go carts for his kids.
Randy is a good dude. He works on cars a lot and has mechanical skills. I will tell you though custom builds like this will put almost anyone’s mechanical skills to the test. I may still have to wait until next month and take off the sprocket and have a bike shop adjust the spokes so the wheel spins 100% perfect. It is not really bad but may be bad enough as There is way too much movement from 15 to 20mph and I was not able to go faster without the chain coming off.

We did not even get to the brakes yet but guess what. I said I wanted good reliable brakes. Well I got them! Just not on the 20" bike but on my new ride. Check it out. I was walking to Randy’s house yesterday afternoon and saw this bike with a $30 for sale sign on it. I had a $20 bill in my pocket and that was it. It could of been the $20 I found on the sidewalk the other day.

The owner of the bike was upstairs on the porch and I told him I would give him $20. He said $25. I said all I had was $20 which was true. He took it and wrote me a receipt with his name and phone number on it. His story was he was moving to the Bronx NY city and his parents bought him the bike. I got a cheap chain but a good heavy duty master lock with it.

I am not familiar with the name brand but it is a 21 speed with Cantilever brakes. It looks like it rolled out of Wall-Mart about six months ago and had to go at least $150 New. It seems to have not been rode that much. Everything works like new but I did not try all the gears. I just shifted to a decent pedal gear for the flat. Magna Exciter XP 3,000.

At least now you know what I meant by reliable brakes. The brakes on the Schwinn are reliable enough to go down most hills around here but there are some hills so steep I would not even run the Schwinn down them without a professional brake adjustment at a shop. The Cantilever brakes on the Magna are good for any hill around here right now though. The only brakes that I know of which would be better would be disk.

With the super reliable brakes I would like to put the 3,300W 36V AmpFlow motor on the back of it if I had the money and mechanical skills to accomplish it which I don’t. The Currie is supposed to get the 1,500W brushless motor and a 60V controller. The brakes on the Currie suck though. They will need replacing. I am thinking about keeping the Magna 21 speed around until I get my SSI settlement.
The Schwinn is good for about 25mph with the Lipos. Why upgrade anything when I have a good reliable bike. The 20"Dimond back will go 30mph if I can eventually keep the chain from popping off and get a 48V controller. The Currie will do about 38 mph if I ever get the 1,500W brushless motor, a 60V controller and five 10 Ah SlAs. The Magna Exciter xp 3,000 should live up to its name with the 3+ kilowatt 36V AmpFlow motor and four 5s Lipos I believe in parallel series for 45mph.

I will be honest and say I might be scared to go 50mph on a bike. The AmpFlow motor may be my limit of madness. The next step would be a 5 kilowatt Golden motor or a 8 or 10 killowatt Astro motor. The 40 kilowatt Astro motor project; Two 20 Kilowatt motors for front and back are on LiveForPhysics level but my idea. He has gone way over 100mph and that I think is awesome! Being honest I may chicken out after 45mph. I don’t know. But my master plan is going by steps and I got a bike for each step to get me to 45mph now. Please post when you can. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

 

[DAND214]

My oldest daughter rode the Schwinn I built for her 2 years ago. She started out scared and after the 10 mile mark she was flat out (SO SHE THOUGHT) she was only on the medium speed and that was 22mph. That is with a weak Q128 hub motor that is 350watt. Don't just believe what the rating is.

Oh if she knew it wasn't top speed she would of gone almost 30? Forgot, she is maybe half your weight! so speed can be affected by weight.

One more thing LC it was done with the same LiPo you are running and just as old maybe older. So shit can those SLEDACID batteries and wake up!

One thing you forget is LFP is running Top Notch Parts and TIRES not the crap we run on bicycles!

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I just calculated a sprocket for that motor and the good news is gear reduction will not be required. A 90 tooth sprocket will roll a 26" bike 46mph with a 11 tooth motor sprocket. I can get that from Monster Scooter parts.

The Currie will still require gear reduction though if I go with that 5600rpm brushless motor. It may be in my best interests to get the broken MY1020 motor that was on the Currie rebuilt and put it back on the Currie for a functional pick up truck like it was. This would speed up the new Magna build also. It makes more sense.

I still have not got much information on where to order new magnets for the broken MY1020 motor. Also rebuilding DC motors in general does not seem like a popular discussion here on ES. That is a shame. I really would like to fix that motor and perhaps even rewind and rebuild the old original stock Currie motor.

I ran the Currie motor at 36V for quite a while before burning it out on a steep hill. That motor would be a better match for the smaller 20" bike than the MY1020 motor. However I don't know how to rebuild or rewind it. That sucks. I wish someone who knows how would show me. Does anyone happen to know. Where would I order the parts for those motors and how much would it cost? If anyone has any information on it like links for specific parts and high quality videos on rebuilds please let me know.

Also I never got any feedback on that Cobalt windshield wiper motor. If it would roll a bike 28mph with two 12V SLAs it would be a really good deal. I was hoping to get further feedback on that subject also. I hope you guys will post when you can. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

Got to go . Library is closing. I will be back tomorrow. Thanks for posting. Call me at home if you want. I am going there now.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I really would like to fix that motor and perhaps even rewind and rebuild the old original stock Currie motor.

I ran the Currie motor at 36V for quite a while before burning it out on a steep hill. That motor would be a better match for the smaller 20" bike than the MY1020 motor. However I don't know how to rebuild or rewind it. That sucks. I wish someone who knows how would show me.

Youtube!

 

[DAND214]

Thanks DA. Even if he doesn't look at it I did and will look more. very interesting.

I see one place where LC could send his busted/burnt motors to. Only problem is, it would be cheaper to buy new with what he has.

SO, how many weeks did it take you to find all of those links?

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

About 5 seconds ...
Just did a search for "rewind motor".

 

[DAND214]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPg2haEf3Q0
Maybe one of these can replace the SLAs. He sure makes sure he didn't raise it far from the table and at only a certain angle.
So instead of how it's made but how does it work? I can't get it to work. Maybe I don't have the right size cap or rubber band.
I sure want to get it running and put it in my trunk bag instead of the battery
What you think DA, will it take one or two to do 20mph?

Dan

 

[Sunder]

SO GUYS we all have been stupid/ignorant/silly/dumb/deaf, but we have learned from our/others mistakes. Just think how many posts we have read and thought, WTF is he/she talking about or NFW will it work?! Like I said, If you don't like the SERIES/POST, turn the channel.

Yeah, I agree. There are safe conventional ways of doing things, there are dumb ways of doing things, but in between, there's learning and innovation.

Have also learned about people from this forum, and even specifically this thread. Still a lot more to learn. We're all on a journey - but we all started at different places, want to go different places, and carrying different baggage. Was just listening to some Gunners this morning - Their cover of the Paul McCartney song "Live and let die". Yeah, the reverse for me. The older I get and the more I see, the more I think "Live and let live".

Thanks DA. Even if he doesn't look at it I did and will look more. very interesting.

I see one place where LC could send his busted/burnt motors to. Only problem is, it would be cheaper to buy new with what he has.

Had a look at those too. A year ago I thought about rewinding the Q100H. It doesn't seem perfectly packed, so I was thinking going one guage of wire heavier, and losing almost no turns, which would give me a tiny bit higher speed, but give me more headroom. At that time I'd been running the standard Q100 328rpm @ 1kw, and it lasted a long time until one day I was carrying a lot of extra weight and didn't pedal at all. So 1kw seems to be REALLY close to the edge, so much so that a 10% headroom from a thicker wire guage would be the difference between "Fragile but works", and "Completely reliable".

Also thought of replacing the magnets with N52s, but the recalculations that had on kV were too complex. It would have gone too much to guess work.

I do long for the day when I can actually get into this. The problem I feel is that the Q100H was built down to a price, not up to a spec. If I knew it was genuine, I'd pay ~800 to $1000 for a Q100H that had N52 magnets, hand wound with the right guage wire to pack it in as tightly as possible, had a thermal sensor installed, up-rated phase wires, and been sealed properly for oil cooling, but I'm guessing there's no market for a premium product like that.

 

[DAND214]

SO GUYS we all have been stupid/ignorant/silly/dumb/deaf, but we have learned from our/others mistakes. Just think how many posts we have read and thought, WTF is he/she talking about or NFW will it work?! Like I said, If you don't like the SERIES/POST, turn the channel.

Yeah, I agree. There are safe conventional ways of doing things, there are dumb ways of doing things, but in between, there's learning and innovation.

Have also learned about people from this forum, and even specifically this thread. Still a lot more to learn. We're all on a journey - but we all started at different places, want to go different places, and carrying different baggage. Was just listening to some Gunners this morning - Their cover of the Paul McCartney song "Live and let die". Yeah, the reverse for me. The older I get and the more I see, the more I think "Live and let live".

Thanks DA. Even if he doesn't look at it I did and will look more. very interesting.

I see one place where LC could send his busted/burnt motors to. Only problem is, it would be cheaper to buy new with what he has.

Had a look at those too. A year ago I thought about rewinding the Q100H. It doesn't seem perfectly packed, so I was thinking going one guage of wire heavier, and losing almost no turns, which would give me a tiny bit higher speed, but give me more headroom. At that time I'd been running the standard Q100 328rpm @ 1kw, and it lasted a long time until one day I was carrying a lot of extra weight and didn't pedal at all. So 1kw seems to be REALLY close to the edge, so much so that a 10% headroom from a thicker wire guage would be the difference between "Fragile but works", and "Completely reliable".

Also thought of replacing the magnets with N52s, but the recalculations that had on kV were too complex. It would have gone too much to guess work.

I do long for the day when I can actually get into this. The problem I feel is that the Q100H was built down to a price, not up to a spec. If I knew it was genuine, I'd pay ~800 to $1000 for a Q100H that had N52 magnets, hand wound with the right guage wire to pack it in as tightly as possible, had a thermal sensor installed, up-rated phase wires, and been sealed properly for oil cooling, but I'm guessing there's no market for a premium product like that.

Hey sunder, good to see your back. Well not really I just glad to see someone reading my BS.
Great to hear from you.

As for the Q series crap as you put it. I had 3 - Q128 when they were young and no one knew of them. They were great and I beat the crap out of them. Over about 2 or three years I managed to ruin all but one. There was no Q100 or even a q-H either. The Q-128s I had were dual reduction like the H series now. I really liked them but what I found was that they were total throw away's. No part support, even from the factory. AT the time BMSBATTERY was not even returning Emails for anything. Not even if you wanted to place an order and for sure not if you asked about a order placed! I hear Jack has changed a lot and the place is more business like. I stripped two sets of gears and tried to get help from BMSBS but never even got a return email stating that they didn't give a damn.
Contacted the manf with multiple emails. After a month or two I got a return Email stating that they could supply parts and was shifted to another person. Sent him a description end even a pic of the 2 stage gears that I needed. That was the end of the conversion! So I went and ordered a couple Q-128 motors figuring I would just change the guts like a MAC - 9C - or whatever brand of decent hub motors are at the time.
GUESSS what? They have done exactly as to what you described! Cheapened up the gear set, went to shitty weak magnets and even cheaper wiring, inside and out! I see that they have done and gone back to the 2 stage gearing and called it H. High torque. You want a decent geared hub motor? Get a MAC! A much better and well supported motor.

After all of that long rant!
Great to hear from you, BUY A MAC!!!!

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.

I should have left the dual motors on there in series with the 36V controller. I got about 7 miles total out of them without the chain popping off. I cant even seem to get a couple blocks without it popping off now with the MY1020 motor. I am still using the 36V controller. It is 2250rpm and 750W now. The same as when I ran it on the Currie. That was my first mistake: taking the other MY1020 motor off the Currie. I got hundreds of miles out of that install and it had a bolt on sprocket.

My second mistake was paying the guy next door Ricky to put the motor on the 20" bike. Mistake #3 was my friend working on it drunk and hitting it with the hammer. My third mistake was spending another $30 for used 20" wheels that were better than what I had but still less than perfect. The only solution will be getting a bike shop to straighten out the wheel so that it is perfect and removing the freewheel and getting a screw on sprocket from monster scooter parts. Or getting a brand new rim for the screw on sprocket.

Also I will probably be getting better hardware and reinstalling the motor. The hardware I used to reinforce the rear rack for the SLAs. The $14 Wal-Mart rack that is supposed to bolt to the post but ended up being duck taped on. The support brackets are heavy duty steel. As usual I am totally broke until the first so nothing will probably happen until then. However I will post a couple videos and some pictures so I will have before and after posts on this install.

The brakes are the least of my worries right now. That will be the easy part after I finally get this install 100% correct. I understand now why hub motors are so popular. I am glad you guys are posting. I am going to talk to Randy when I go over about rebuilding DC motors. I think Albania has the magnets for the old MY1020 motor. I wish to install those first and maybe replace the brush assembly first before learning how to rewind the old Currie motor.

I am glad you guys are posting. It is good to hear from you Sunder. I have always wanted to go to Australia some day. I saw a TV video where some guy was stupid enough to get right up close and stare a kangaroo right in the face. He ended up with two black eyes. Did anyone else see it? I need to go and see if Randy is home and probably bring the bike home. I might not get the AmpFlow motor for the Magna.

 

[latecurtis]

http://ev-propulsion.com/motorcycle-hub-motors.html

Remember that motor? DA posted it. I may get it for the Magna when I get my SSI settlement. :lol:

I did a search on this post and typed DrkAngel in the search box. It was quicker than going thru all the pages. Thanks.


LC. out

 

[DAND214]

Lc, it's good to hear you have learned to use the search engine
You can't wait or expect for all ES members to do your dirty work.

We posted, what did I say?

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

http://ev-propulsion.com/motorcycle-hub-motors.html

Remember that motor? DA posted it. I may get it for the Magna when I get my SSI settlement. :lol:

I did a search on this post and typed DrkAngel in the search box. It was quicker than going thru all the pages. Thanks.


LC. out

Just remember ....
Anything beyond a 750w motor can be considered:
Illegal unlicensed operation of an unregistered, uninsured motor vehicle!
Swipe a pedestrian or contribute to an accident and deal with civil, plus ... criminal, liability!!!


Can probably tack on a DWI or DWAI also ...

 

[Sunder]

@dan I am indeed the proud owner of a MAC 8T with a stuck clutch. Another project for another day. It was quieter, smoother, faster and more torquey on the same controller, but one thing it wasn't was light or stealthy... wait... that's two things.

@LC. You don't put a Garrett GT6041 on a Honda Jazz, and you don't fit a Hayabusa motor into a Specialized. As fun as that thing looks, you probably want to really think about what you strap that to. If you're thinking a push bike, if you're lucky, it'd snap the dropouts on the first take off. If you're unlucky, it might last 3 seconds longer until you're doing over 60mph.

In other news, I'm back, baby! Spent 3 hours I couldn't afford repairing the bike and will try to ride tomorrow. Trust my luck, its the first forecasted rain in 6 weeks.

 

[dnmun]

maybe the social security will pay tuition for some electronics classes at the local junior college and create some opportunities for you.

count yourself lucky sunder, we have had the driest hottest spring and summer on record. no snowpack. dams don't even have enuff water to make electricity for the guys in california to run their A/C 24/7 and there is so much smoke i cannot even see across town to the buildings downtown.

rain is good. repeat, rain is god.

 

[Sunder]

rain is good. repeat, rain is god.

Dont know if rain is god, but certainly getting some divine fury here. Its hammering down so hard that visibility is less than 10m and every gutter is overflowing.

Glad I'm not out in that.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/23 - 8/24

I went to Randy’s after posting today and he put three new bolts in the hub to reattach the 62 tooth sprocket. Awhile he was doing that I unhooked the two brackets I used to hold it in place which attached to the handlebars. This was to drop the motor a little so I could put the chain back on. The bottom brackets were loose so I ended up totally uninstalling the motor. I did not get upset because I thought that would happen.

I put the front brake assembly thru the center hole and tried installing the brackets above it but there was not enough room. I figured that too. I got sick of trying plus it was getting dark. I told Randy about my original fork mount idea. He said it might work but the motor would stick out a lot. He told me he would work on it even without me there if I wanted. I told him I would let him know tomorrow.

The trick I have been searching for is to be able to pull the motor upwards to tighten the chain or move the motor downward if I need to change the tire. Moving the axel down until it almost falls off and then tightening the nuts and hoping it stays in place is not safe and does not work well. Notice the way I designed the brackets so the motor can slide up and down and left or right. That enables different sprockets for the wheel and even a different motor without changing the brackets.

Frankly I am sick and tired of wasting my time reinstalling the motor over and over. I could make better use of my time. This way I only need to install the motor once and can easily switch motors in a few minutes. I can then spend that extra time riding or going to the gym. Not only that but every time the motor gets reinstalled there is a chance of dropping and damaging the motor.

The support bars will be 1/4" thick and about 2" wide. They are to support and add integery to the fork. The bolts will be 1/4" thick. The motor brackets will be the same as the support brackets but 1 -1/4" wide and maybe close to 1" where the motor slides up and down but still 1/4" thick. The support bars will be a foot on each side. The stabilizing bars about 8" and the four holding the four brackets for the motor about the same. The four that hold the motor about 5 or 6". When it’s done I will post exact measurements.

When buying the materials figure two feet total for the supports about 2" wide and 3 feet for the motor brackets about 1-1/4' wide and three feet for the brackets which actually hold the motor about 1" or 1-1/8" wide. All being 1/4" thick. 36 nuts and washers 12 of them being extra-large as mentioned for the motor. Approximately 3 feet of 1/4" threaded rod. I would guess about $35 total cost.

Keep a small file handy as once the rod is cut it may be difficult getting a nut on it. However it is much cheaper than buying all separate bolts. The other tools needed are good pliers a hacksaw with a good blade a wrench to fit the nuts and a good metal 1/4"drill bit and a drill. If Mad Max had a kid He won’t have much over me on this build.

They sell everything at Home depot. The flat steel bars come in 3 feet sections you can see them a few pages back as I bought six feet of it to support the cheap rear Wall-Mart rack that holds the three SLAs in the back. However the steel bars I am using for this are thicker. I will get an extra drill bit and Randy has real good bits for drilling thru steel. He works on cars a lot and has mechanics tools.

It is a lesson learned using the same hardware over and over for mounting motors. Some of those brackets I am using now were from the Currie Motor install. I put them on a flat cinder block to pound them straight many times in the last three months since I started this build. I actually broke a block doing it. Those brackets have holes pre drilled and new holes were drilled to mount the motors. That's not good.

As far as the wheel goes with the 62 tooth sprocket bolted on to the center hub where the spokes attach. It might be ok for a 100 pound kid with one of the razor scooter motors and a 24V controller and geared for about 10mph. For a 1.3hp motor and a 250 pound person I should order a brand new rim and a screw on 62 tooth sprocket or not even bother. Once the motor is installed the wheel will be the weak link. I don’t want any more weak links!

Also with this fork mount everything is mounted and spins way below where the brakes are supposed to go so there will be no excuse not to have good front and rear brakes for the 30mph motor. It looks like another three weeks or so before it’s all together. Money is the issue as usual. Same thing every month.

Notice the bottom bracket stabilizing the motor in the diagram. The one at a 35degree angel. The end of the bracket on the bottom is where I had to cut the fork to fit the 80 tooth sprocket that was bolted to the freewheel earlier on. If it did degrade the structural integrity of the fork then the bolt right next to it and support brackets it goes thru will most definitely compensate for that. I know that was mentioned earlier.

I just want to get it running and functional like the Currie was. The Currie was my most functional bike. With the large rear basket and the SLAs mounted in the frame towards the front 60 or 80lbs in the basket rolled nicely down the road.

This will have a front basket for at least 40lbs. The SLAs in the back will even the weight out a little. four SLAs will be even better as the motor and hardware will be at least 25lbs plus 40lbs in a front basket bolted to the handlebars. I used the heavy SLAs to my advantage with the Currie and plan on doing the same with this.

I take out the SLAs before I carry the bike up the stairs so it is easier to carry. It is probably heavier than the Magna with the motor but a little smaller and less cumbersome on the stairs. The entire reason for this build is to have a highly functional bike like the Currie but more compact for stairs.

If I were to build the Magna I would get Lipo as that type of bike is either built to be reliable or fast. Not functional. SLAs= functional but heavy. Lipo = reliable and light. I already have a reliable bike. The Schwinn. However anything I want to carry would have to be tied to the handlebars as the rear basket is where the Lipos are in the cash box.

It can get me across town to the doctor as fast or faster than a car but is useless at a supermarket. If I put a basket on the front it would not only look really stupid with two baskets but the brakes and cables would no doubt be compromised making it less reliable.

That is why the Dimond Back will have both features. I can run the Lipos when I get a 48V controller and will still be able to go about as fast if not faster than the Schwinn with the Hub motor. It will also have good brakes and a basket making it reliable and functional. It will be a race when I get four SLAs and race the Schwinn with the Lipos.

My guess is The SLAs will win. Four SLAs fully charged are close to 53V. The Lipo packs charged to 4.1 drop to about 4.07 and are just under 49V fully charged. I have rode the Schwinn with Lipo and the Currie at 36V with that motor. If I Lipo charge them to 4.2 they still drop to about 4.17 so I would only get about 50V out of them. Still less than 4 SLAs. Believe it or not the old Currie motor at 675W and 36V did about the same as the MY1020 motor. #1 Hub motor@44.4V = 27mph. #2 Currie motor@36V = 26mph. #3 MY1020 motor@36V = 25mph. That is my guess. I still dont have a speedo.


8/24

I went to the gym. I did not make it to Randys. I was carrying groceries in a back pack and it was out of the way. I will talk to him tomorrow after I post this. Doug left a message for me to stop over. I went there and he had two 20" Hyper frames to trade. . One black and one grey. Plus a set of mag 20" rims, the back a freewheel and a pedal crank.. I traded him an old technics reciever and a realistic and a pair of sony speakers with a small sub. That and a couple of 20" dirt bike tires.

I think he missed me as he talked my ear off. He was not yelling and seemed to treat his family better tonight. It must have got back to him what I said. I told several people. I am sure they told him too. That is a good thing. The kid is young and hyper but there is good in him. He is only 27 years old. I am old enough to be his father.

Both frames have brake calipers but need levers and cables. The rims are not perfect but really close. If Randy don’t wand the two small motors I will get something rolling soon. He was going to build a go cart with them but changed his mind and said he wants a gas motor. I will post a video and some pictures when I get something rolling. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

I was kidding about the motorcycle motor DA. The 3300W Ampflow motor may be as high as I go on a bike. I cant afford either now anyway.

I am glad it is raining and hope it puts the fires out there in the west. I may say I hate NY. but upstate NY is one of the safest place to be as far as natural disasters go. Usually we get no earth quakes that amount to anything. Tornados and very rare and I have not heard of wild fires here either. There has been some flooding in certain areas but that is about it. You could not pay me a million dollars to live out west in the desert. I don't want to be anywhere where there is no mountains, rivers and streams.

Like I said before they should stop drilling oil and use the money to run water pipelines or build rivers thru those areas plagued by drought and fires. I remember when Arnold was governor of California. It put a lot of grey hair on his head. He must be happier now making Terminator movies. He is my favorite actor. Been watching his movies since I was a kid.

This lady I met a couple months ago who walks around with a parrot on her shoulder had one of those Currie Izip metros with a hub motor in the back. It was shiny silver. She only paid $200 for it with no batteries. The batteries go in the frame. She asked me if I could hook SLAs to it. I told her I could but wont as I would have to cut wires and she should order the correct battery. I saw her again and she told me someone stole the seat and flattened the tires so she gave the bike to someone.

I talked to her yesterday and she said she would try to get it back and sell it to me. I told her I did not have much money but would give her something for it next month. It would be awesome if I could get it for $50. I could put the motor on the Magna. I looked it up and that bike was over $1500 new. I was really pissed when she said she gave it away. I could probably sell it for a few hundred and make a profit but I just want the motor.

I am going to see if my friend has any scrap metal as he scraps. I am looking for steel bed frames or any flat metal I can cut and use for brackets to mount that MY1020 motor. If not I may put the Diamond Back together with the Dual motor set up how it was and get back brakes hooked up. It only was good for about 10mph anyway. I just wont go down any steep hills and walk up hills so I don't burn out the motor. The big thing for me is I miss having a basket to haul stuff. I hate walking with a back pack full of groceries and carrying stuff in my hand like I did yesterday for over a mile. I am glad you guys are posting regularly now. Its good to hear from you all. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Curious as to why you would hang the motor off the side like some nasty, unbalancing, ugly, cancerous wart on some complex flimsy bracket.

Better!



Best!!!
Use spoke mount sprocket on opposite side of rear wheel.

For any type bike.
Even if you have to mount on top of rack.

 

[Sunder]

Curious as to why you would hang the motor off the side like some nasty, unbalancing, ugly, cancerous wart on some complex flimsy bracket.

I'm thinking the same. I moved the controller and battery into the left pannier bag. Together they might weigh 7kg. Not noticeable at all at high speeds, but at low speeds, there is definitely an imbalance when cornering tight. I'm now investing in money to bring the weight back to the centre of the bike preferably low. One of the things I've done is gone from a big 1kw square wave controller which weighs about 1kg, to Justin's new FOC controller which is a quarter of the size and weighs 200gm. I'll next either move the battery to inside the triangle, or buy much smaller batteries, and put them in a handlebar bag.

Just a question LC - Are you doing this because you enjoy the tinkering and work, or because you want the best bike for cheap? I've been seeing some eRider Lightning Bolt TD4s for cheap lately. Last month one sold on eBay for $500 (AUD - about $350 USD), but with no battery. That's a 100km/h capable bike that has been designed properly and meets strict Australian standards for about $1200-$1500 once its been repaired. You can get one used for about $2000 AUD in working condition, but the battery is about 4-5 years old. I was thinking of getting it, and changing it from a 72v to 96v, to make it a 130km/h capable bike. Thought about it too long though, and someone beat me to it.

 

[Skalabala]

My days of brushed is over. Just got this from china Will make a thread later

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/24 - 8/25

When I got to Randy’s he was already working on the bike. He has a plan to use the brackets I have. He already had the center hole where the brakes go drilled out and plans on using some really heavy duty bolts from a car engine. It will be where the two motors were if it works. He is more skilled at mechanics than I may ever be.

He also said don’t worry about brakes it will happen also. He is a real friend and doing it in his spare time and not charging me. He had to look at a lady’s car as he is doing a tune up on it. He works on cars a lot and am sure he don’t charge much. I went to the gym awhile he was looking at the car. I stopped back and he said the bike will probably be rolling tomorrow.

The basket will hide the large MY1020 motor so I hope he is successful. I already succeeded installing two motors anyway where he is mounting the new motor. I admit it was not perfect but had about 7 miles on it and the chain did not pop off. It might still be running if I did not take the motors off. It was good for 10mph but no more than that.

I think the wheel and the sprocket was the reason for all the noise and shaking not the mounting of the motors. The main reason for removing the two motors was not the lack of speed. It was the fact that I knew the small motors would fail miserably up hills.

8/25
Today is one of those days. I have been up awhile and my back is really stiff. It is after 5pm and I am supposed to be at Randy’s back yard. It looks like I will be a little late. I am still going to the gym though but it looks like a late one. Maybe about 8 pm tonight.

I am back and it is 11pm I saw the girl that had the Izip Metro on the way. The guy that has the bike is in Mass. I told her $50. I saw the bike and it is cool but the Magna is lighter. It was a rear hub motor. . If I get it, it is going on the back of the Magna. Looks like a job for Doug now that he is back in the picture.

Randy was busy doing a brake job on the lady’s car. I made it to the gym. I have been walking for cardio + did 25 minutes on the treadmill and some seated pulldowns and arm curls. Tomorrow I got a 9AM doctors appointment for bloodwork for Low T. I am hoping they will upgrade my prescription so I need to be there. Hopefully the motor will get installed tomorrow night.

I thought it over and decided to re edit the diagram on the fork motor. I did not like the last design for obvious reasons. The only reason I did it was I tried drilling slots before for adjusting the motor and the results left much to be desired. That’s why I was leaning toward doing it without all the drilling.

I thought it over and decided that if I use wide flat steel bars like the ones for the supports I can drill small neat holes and use a jig saw with a good metal blade to cut out the slots shown in this new diagram. It will allow me the same adjustments left and right for different wheel sprockets and also let me move the motor up and down if I have to remove the wheel. Only four holes will need to be drilled thru the fork and the two supports. Large washers will make it work flawlessly.

I hope Randy is successful in his attempt to mount the motor but as good as he is I don’t think he would have come up with this plan. I may lack in mechanical skills but I don’t lack in imagination. If Randy fails with mounting the motor where the front brakes are supposed to be I won’t fail doing it this way. If he manages to pull it off I just hope he can figure out how to get front brakes hooked up.
Even if he is successful I may switch the handlebars with the 20" Hyper frame and set up the MY1020 motor on the Hyper 20" bike and do the Diamond Back with the 1500W brushless motor with my fork motor set up. The Forks are bigger around than the Hyper forks. Better suited for my fork motor setup.

I have learned that winging it as they say when installing a motor is a waste of time. I wasted enough time doing it. I got lucky and my first motor install on the Currie was successful the first time. It was a different type of install though as I ran bolts thru the motor. Also the framework of the Currie rack was perfect for the application. Besides the motor coming apart and it was the wrong motor sprocket and I had to order a new one, it lasted almost two years and would still be running if I did not take it off to put it on the Diamond Back.

I know that I don’t want to cut up a bed frame to make brackets. I want to go to home depot and get the flat steel bars and nuts and washers I need to do it my way. Until then I will not work on it any more. If Randy wants to that is fine with me. I hope he gets it going.

I plan on calling that place that does custom sprockets tomorrow also to get a price on a 110 tooth sprocket after that. I plan on ordering that 5600rpm 1,500W brushless motor Skalabala posted next month. I have confidence that this diagram is the one, and it will work.

That should get me up to 35mph. The 3300W Amp Flow will be after that for about 46mph but that will go on the Currie for my first gear reduction drive. I am also thinking about getting the 20 kilowatt Asrtro motor for the final Currie upgrade when I get my SSI settlement. It makes perfect sense to me. The name of this post is about a new Currie motor right? Thanks. Post when you can.

8/26 noon
I just got back from the doctors. Two doctors. I had to make an appointment and had bloodwork done earlier at my primary. I almost hurt myself on the stairs again hauling that Schwinn up here It is the sharp bend towards the top. If it was a straight shot going up it would be easier. i really wish I could get that 20" bike going today.

It won’t matter if I get my SSI settlement this year. The first thing I will do is move to a first floor apartment that has enough room for my bikes and a place to work on them. I don’t plan on getting rid of the Schwinn or the Currie. I am building the Magna too so I will have three 26" mountain bikes however now I just want a 20".

It is much easier on the stairs as I can take out the SLAs and carry them up separately and I can lift it higher so the front wheel don’t hit the steps in front of me. I am going to end up breaking my neck one of these days if I don’t get a smaller bike running. Thanks.

LC. out

 

[latecurtis]

That motor looks awesome. I can hardly wait for him to post more on it. It looks at least 3 kilowatts. That is a sweet motor. I might end up getting that next. It would fit on the Currie. It looks a little too big for a 20" bike. The diagram I just posted has to be opened up but is probably the last of that type of fork motor mount. I don't see any way of improving it any further. I admit it does stick out like a sore thumb however it will not interfere with the front brakes. Also the rear mount DA posted looks like it would interfere with the rear brakes.

I was actually thinking about installing the MY1020 motor on the back of Magna like that using the Currie rear wheel already set up for pedal assist with the dual hubs. The problem is I would have to unhook the rear brakes and I am not doing that. That is why I want that Izip Metro. The Hub motor is on the back and I can still have pedal gears. Either way the Magna is getting a hub motor period.

I am hoping to get the Dimond Back finished soon like today or tomorrow. Skalabala. Thanks for posting that. You guys are all on my friends list. I will post tomorrow or Friday. I look forwards to more info on that new motor. Thanks again.

LC. out.