latecurtis
100 MW
I may be able to do the epoxy if there is a video on how he did it. If not my friend Ricky can help. He said he would. He has torches too if it would help. I have Mag rime. Could a rim be welded to tthat?
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
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latecurtis
100 MW
The Mag rim is straighter than the spoked rim I have. I may be able to drill thru it and bolt it to my 20" rim. I still don't know what size rim to use for 30mph@3000rpm. The sprocket calculater wont help me here.
latecurtis
100 MW
A specific link for the motor attachment for the pulley would really help. I am out of time here at the library.
The link to the way lowracer makes his rim pulley was in the post from before. Had lots of pictures and instructions. Again, it's here.
If you don't epoxy-bolt or tack weld another rim onto a rim, the other way that's been done by others is to take a smaller rim and cut notches in it to fit onto the wheel spokes. Just like Golden Eagle's drive wheel except theirs is plastic and snaps on to the spokes.
There are belt drive reduction online calculators. I don't have links to them but a couple of examples on how to calculate reduction manually are here and here. If you read Eric Peltzer's webpage, he gets 8:1 reduction from a 1-3/4" motor pulley to 20" rim wheel drive. lowracer uses 26" or 700C rim wheel drives. His pocket bike engines are high rpm like the motors you're always wanting.
Also, I wasn't paying attention that you wanted a pulley for a 20" mag wheel. Was thinking of a normal-sized spoked wheel.
If you don't epoxy-bolt or tack weld another rim onto a rim, the other way that's been done by others is to take a smaller rim and cut notches in it to fit onto the wheel spokes. Just like Golden Eagle's drive wheel except theirs is plastic and snaps on to the spokes.
There are belt drive reduction online calculators. I don't have links to them but a couple of examples on how to calculate reduction manually are here and here. If you read Eric Peltzer's webpage, he gets 8:1 reduction from a 1-3/4" motor pulley to 20" rim wheel drive. lowracer uses 26" or 700C rim wheel drives. His pocket bike engines are high rpm like the motors you're always wanting.
Also, I wasn't paying attention that you wanted a pulley for a 20" mag wheel. Was thinking of a normal-sized spoked wheel.
DrkAngel
1 GW
LC - Please acknowledge that you know what a "rim" is!
If your rim "wobbles" or is "bent", simply adjusting the spokes can usually straighten it nicely.
If "rim" is dented, requires precision hammer work or replacement.
If axle is bent, replacement is the preferred option.
Axle & hub & spokes & rim = a wheel. (sprockets & tire optional for name)
See - Wheel Parts
If your rim "wobbles" or is "bent", simply adjusting the spokes can usually straighten it nicely.
If "rim" is dented, requires precision hammer work or replacement.
If axle is bent, replacement is the preferred option.
Axle & hub & spokes & rim = a wheel. (sprockets & tire optional for name)
See - Wheel Parts
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Are you using the mag rim as a pulley, or actually as a wheel? If it's a weight bearing wheel, that sounds like a really bad idea. Mag wheels on push bikes are great for smooth road riding, but from what I've heard, not great for anywhere with big potholes, or dismounting at speed off kerbs - It's fine if your tyre takes the brunt, but hit it at an angle, and instead of truing your wheel, you're replacing it.
I suspect the extra weight and higher speed of eBikes would make them almost guaranteed to break sooner or later. If you drill it, you just cut short its life by an indeterminable amount. If it's just a pulley it should be fine.
Magnesium alloy wheels can't be welded to steel, and epoxy is unlikely to withstand the torque for very long. I think you'll need to make some sort of hub adaptor if I'm understanding correctly what you're trying to do.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.grainger.com/search?searchQuery=Motor+Pulley&adgrpID=19678838474&kwdID=%2Bmotor%20%2Bpulley&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+Main+12-_-Power+Transmission_Sheaves+and+Pulleys_BMM-_-Pulley_Motor+Pulley_BMM-_-keyword&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!84113323154!b!!s!!%2Bmotor%20%2Bpulley&ef_id=VfM6FQAABPzATURv:20150911203117:s
latecurtis
100 MW
I found this link for the motor attachment. I am not sure which one will work for my unite motor to replace the 11 tooth #25 sprocket. This will be the first step in converting to a belt drive. I did not understand the instructions to calculate the size of the rim I will need to use for a pulley. However I will measure the diameter 11 tooth sprocket that is on there now and the 62 tooth wheel sprocket for 30mph. I will divide the diameter of the wheel sprocket by the diameter of the motor sprocket. Then I will try to get as close as I can to that number by dividing the diameter of different size rims by the diameter of the inside of the motor pulley and get as close as I can.
I am thinking maybe a 16" rim for the wheel pulley attached to my 20" rim will do the trick. The next size up is an 18" rim and the next size lower would be a 12". I will go with whatever is closer to the number I need. The problem is I will need to attach the smaller rim to the spokes of the larger rim or to the mag wheel if possible. Either way it will be difficult.
I still don't know what size a standard bike chain is. I will look it up. I may still get a wheel sprocket that will screw on to where the freewheel goes and put the 9 tooth standard bike chain motor sprocket from the old Currie motor on the new Unite motor. I will need a 50 tooth sprocket for 25mph at 2250rpm@36V and it will go 30mph at 3,000rpm@48V.
Of course I am out of time again and will need to do further research tomorrow. I really want to try a belt drive but lack the skills required to get it accomplished. Ricky did not bother to look anything up. Nobody is physically helping me on this. You guys are helping me with ideas and knowledge but I need help actually putting something together. Thanks.
LC. out.
I am thinking maybe a 16" rim for the wheel pulley attached to my 20" rim will do the trick. The next size up is an 18" rim and the next size lower would be a 12". I will go with whatever is closer to the number I need. The problem is I will need to attach the smaller rim to the spokes of the larger rim or to the mag wheel if possible. Either way it will be difficult.
I still don't know what size a standard bike chain is. I will look it up. I may still get a wheel sprocket that will screw on to where the freewheel goes and put the 9 tooth standard bike chain motor sprocket from the old Currie motor on the new Unite motor. I will need a 50 tooth sprocket for 25mph at 2250rpm@36V and it will go 30mph at 3,000rpm@48V.
Of course I am out of time again and will need to do further research tomorrow. I really want to try a belt drive but lack the skills required to get it accomplished. Ricky did not bother to look anything up. Nobody is physically helping me on this. You guys are helping me with ideas and knowledge but I need help actually putting something together. Thanks.
LC. out.
DAND214
10 MW
LC, you don't need help. You've done it before when they said you couldn't so do it again. Look at the link better on the wheel to wheel mount and it's easy.
I'd go with the wheel that just fits inside of the other so you can glue it and wire or screw it to the other. But this is your gig so do what you can and get it going. Oh yeah, be sure to get some brakes on it.
Dan
I'd go with the wheel that just fits inside of the other so you can glue it and wire or screw it to the other. But this is your gig so do what you can and get it going. Oh yeah, be sure to get some brakes on it.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Well, 1st ... find out what type shaft you have.
Then you can start looking for sprockets that will fit.
Then you can start looking for sprockets that will fit.
DAND214
10 MW
Years ago we bought pulleys at the Hardware stores, all the time.
Belts and pulleys were a common thing.
As DA said, measure the shaft so you know what size you need.
It's not a good idea to buy a tire for your car if you don't know what size the rim is
Dan
Belts and pulleys were a common thing.
As DA said, measure the shaft so you know what size you need.
It's not a good idea to buy a tire for your car if you don't know what size the rim is
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 9/12 No more wheels!!!
I gave the Magna pedal bike to my friend Dave who gave me the $50 towards the new motor for hitting the old MY1020 motor with a hammer trying to line up the sprockets four months ago when I started this project. He got a job at the Mall at a restaurant and needs it to get back and forth. He needs a 28" or 29" wheel to get his bike running. I will either take the Magna back then or take $20 for it as that is what I paid for it and I don’t make money off my friends.
I found my old 32bit Vista disk and reinstalled the OS the other day. I got my converter software installed just now and was able to get these pictures up tonight. I removed the 80 tooth sprocket from the freewheel on the mag rim and put it back on the spoked rim. I changed the tube and tire myself too. The cheap #25 chain broke. It is totally shot.
Doug looked at the wheel and said it was the bolt on sprocket that was crooked and it was not the bent wheel popping off the chain. I then reinstalled the 80 tooth sprocket a second time with the bolts on the outside to see if it was better. It was not. It was worse!
I have to stop working on e bikes for a while after this. The ol lady says it makes me too miserable. It changes my personality and I get very depressed and frustrated. With my blood pressure issues it is sure to kill me!!! I had a really hard time getting the 9 tooth sprocket off the currie gear reduction unit. The nut didn't want to come off then I had to beat the shit out of it with two hammers to get the sprocket off.
The 11 tooth sprocket on the unite motor was a pain in the ass also but I got it done. I did not have vice grips so it is not as tight as I would like but Ricky can check it before installing the chain. I am sure he has vice grips. The rim is bent a little but not terrible. It should be $20 or less for the bike shop to fix it. There is no #25 80 tooth sprocket on it anymore so they can’t tell me they won’t work on it because it is motorized.
Pictures 3 - 6 with the tape measure. six was across and measured three times. The 9 tooth is real close to 1 - 5/8" in diameter across from tip to tip of the teeth. Please tell me what the 50 tooth sprocket I will need is called or post a link for it. I want to order it soon. This will be my absolute final attempt to get this thing up and running. If it won’t work then I will be getting rid of the bike and selling the motor.
Ricky next door agrees with me about not using cheap chain or bolt on sprockets. The only sprocket I will use is a 50 tooth that screws on to where the freewheel goes. When the bike shop straightens the wheel and tightens up the spokes I will have them remove the freewheel as I lost the park tool freewheel puller at Randys back yard and he moved.
It was the wrong puller. This needs a two way freewheel puller not a four way. There is a picture. I need a 50 tooth sprocket that will screw on to replace that freewheel on pic. 7. Please post it if possible. Pictures 8 and 9 show the motor mount. I ran a bolt thru the seat post so it can’t turn. I also have room for a small basket behind the motor and am adding another bolt each side on the support brackets.
I comprimized the structural integerty of the front fork cutting it to fit the 62 tooth bolt on sprocket that also failed miserably. I see my mistake now. However there is a fix for it. A torque arm. I will order one for $15 to rectify the situation. Or find a similar piece of hardware at the depot.
We did not waste our time the last week discussing belt drives either. The Currie needs a motor. The 1,500W 5600rpm motor Skalabala posted a while ago is the perfect motor for that type of set up. If that is not available the 1,500W 7,000rpm motor I used to post all the time would work also.
The name of this post is about a new motor for the Currie anyway. I just want to get this 20" build over so I can move on to a brushless motor. I go to my hearing on the 25th for my SSI disability. I will be getting a settlement if I am approved. I am hoping I can send out the Currie wheel to an ES member who wants to make a few bucks hooking it up for a belt drive. I am willing to pay to have it done.
I will mount the motor and install the motor pulley myself as well as the controller and all the electronics. I just don’t want to deal with wheels anymore! The ol lady is right. It makes me totally miserable when I keep failing over and over!! It is not worth the aggravation and I will gladly pay to have it done as long as it is not an unreasonable amount of money.
I have learned two important lessons on this build.
#1 I know why hub motors are so popular. I always tell anyone looking for a motor for their bike to get one.
#2 Don’t use cheap chain and bolt on sprockets unless you work at a bike shop or have equal skills and tools. There are too many different size chains and sprockets! Nothing is standard when dealing with bicycle wheels and sprockets and nothing is easy or simple. There are at least six different freewheel pullers for 20" wheels for example.
Not only that but I have never successfully installed a wheel sprocket that worked for any length of time. My Dual motor set up lasted a week but was only good for about 10mph and would have self-destructed up any hill in seconds!
The bike shop installed the 80 tooth bolt on sprocket to the Currie freewheel over two years ago and hooked the #25 chain to the motor. I just installed the motor first and hooked up the controller plus upgraded the battery rack in the frame and hooked up a huge basket. There are some things I can do and enjoy doing myself. Wheels are not one of those things!! The bike shop refuses to work on anything electric any more however. If it is a simple epoxy and drill one rim to another rim the same size I might be able to do it but if I have to attach say a 24" or 20" rim to the spokes of a 26" wheel when I do the Currie project I would rather pay someone else to do it. If it is not a simple screw on deal or simple to attach two rims the same size, count me out.
I really don’t know what screw on sprocket will fit. I imagine there is more than one size. There is with everything else. Please post the link for the 50 tooth sprocket I will need. I think Monster Scooter parts has screw on sprockets but I don’t want to order the wrong one!!!! That is why I posted close up pictures. I have no clue what will screw on and what wont. Thanks.
LC. out.
I gave the Magna pedal bike to my friend Dave who gave me the $50 towards the new motor for hitting the old MY1020 motor with a hammer trying to line up the sprockets four months ago when I started this project. He got a job at the Mall at a restaurant and needs it to get back and forth. He needs a 28" or 29" wheel to get his bike running. I will either take the Magna back then or take $20 for it as that is what I paid for it and I don’t make money off my friends.
I found my old 32bit Vista disk and reinstalled the OS the other day. I got my converter software installed just now and was able to get these pictures up tonight. I removed the 80 tooth sprocket from the freewheel on the mag rim and put it back on the spoked rim. I changed the tube and tire myself too. The cheap #25 chain broke. It is totally shot.
Doug looked at the wheel and said it was the bolt on sprocket that was crooked and it was not the bent wheel popping off the chain. I then reinstalled the 80 tooth sprocket a second time with the bolts on the outside to see if it was better. It was not. It was worse!
I have to stop working on e bikes for a while after this. The ol lady says it makes me too miserable. It changes my personality and I get very depressed and frustrated. With my blood pressure issues it is sure to kill me!!! I had a really hard time getting the 9 tooth sprocket off the currie gear reduction unit. The nut didn't want to come off then I had to beat the shit out of it with two hammers to get the sprocket off.
The 11 tooth sprocket on the unite motor was a pain in the ass also but I got it done. I did not have vice grips so it is not as tight as I would like but Ricky can check it before installing the chain. I am sure he has vice grips. The rim is bent a little but not terrible. It should be $20 or less for the bike shop to fix it. There is no #25 80 tooth sprocket on it anymore so they can’t tell me they won’t work on it because it is motorized.
Pictures 3 - 6 with the tape measure. six was across and measured three times. The 9 tooth is real close to 1 - 5/8" in diameter across from tip to tip of the teeth. Please tell me what the 50 tooth sprocket I will need is called or post a link for it. I want to order it soon. This will be my absolute final attempt to get this thing up and running. If it won’t work then I will be getting rid of the bike and selling the motor.
Ricky next door agrees with me about not using cheap chain or bolt on sprockets. The only sprocket I will use is a 50 tooth that screws on to where the freewheel goes. When the bike shop straightens the wheel and tightens up the spokes I will have them remove the freewheel as I lost the park tool freewheel puller at Randys back yard and he moved.
It was the wrong puller. This needs a two way freewheel puller not a four way. There is a picture. I need a 50 tooth sprocket that will screw on to replace that freewheel on pic. 7. Please post it if possible. Pictures 8 and 9 show the motor mount. I ran a bolt thru the seat post so it can’t turn. I also have room for a small basket behind the motor and am adding another bolt each side on the support brackets.
I comprimized the structural integerty of the front fork cutting it to fit the 62 tooth bolt on sprocket that also failed miserably. I see my mistake now. However there is a fix for it. A torque arm. I will order one for $15 to rectify the situation. Or find a similar piece of hardware at the depot.
We did not waste our time the last week discussing belt drives either. The Currie needs a motor. The 1,500W 5600rpm motor Skalabala posted a while ago is the perfect motor for that type of set up. If that is not available the 1,500W 7,000rpm motor I used to post all the time would work also.
The name of this post is about a new motor for the Currie anyway. I just want to get this 20" build over so I can move on to a brushless motor. I go to my hearing on the 25th for my SSI disability. I will be getting a settlement if I am approved. I am hoping I can send out the Currie wheel to an ES member who wants to make a few bucks hooking it up for a belt drive. I am willing to pay to have it done.
I will mount the motor and install the motor pulley myself as well as the controller and all the electronics. I just don’t want to deal with wheels anymore! The ol lady is right. It makes me totally miserable when I keep failing over and over!! It is not worth the aggravation and I will gladly pay to have it done as long as it is not an unreasonable amount of money.
I have learned two important lessons on this build.
#1 I know why hub motors are so popular. I always tell anyone looking for a motor for their bike to get one.
#2 Don’t use cheap chain and bolt on sprockets unless you work at a bike shop or have equal skills and tools. There are too many different size chains and sprockets! Nothing is standard when dealing with bicycle wheels and sprockets and nothing is easy or simple. There are at least six different freewheel pullers for 20" wheels for example.
Not only that but I have never successfully installed a wheel sprocket that worked for any length of time. My Dual motor set up lasted a week but was only good for about 10mph and would have self-destructed up any hill in seconds!
The bike shop installed the 80 tooth bolt on sprocket to the Currie freewheel over two years ago and hooked the #25 chain to the motor. I just installed the motor first and hooked up the controller plus upgraded the battery rack in the frame and hooked up a huge basket. There are some things I can do and enjoy doing myself. Wheels are not one of those things!! The bike shop refuses to work on anything electric any more however. If it is a simple epoxy and drill one rim to another rim the same size I might be able to do it but if I have to attach say a 24" or 20" rim to the spokes of a 26" wheel when I do the Currie project I would rather pay someone else to do it. If it is not a simple screw on deal or simple to attach two rims the same size, count me out.
I really don’t know what screw on sprocket will fit. I imagine there is more than one size. There is with everything else. Please post the link for the 50 tooth sprocket I will need. I think Monster Scooter parts has screw on sprockets but I don’t want to order the wrong one!!!! That is why I posted close up pictures. I have no clue what will screw on and what wont. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-Motor-engine-bike-parts-50-teeth-freewheel-sprocket-/400658308909?hash=item5d49189f2d
Will this work. I am still looking. I would like to find something cheaper or it will be next month.
:x
Will this work. I am still looking. I would like to find something cheaper or it will be next month.
:x
latecurtis
100 MW
I don't know what my chain size is but I got three numbers for custom sprockets. It always happens in the middle of the month. I really don't have much money. I need a 50 tooth sprocket for cheap. Under $20 if possible. Please tell me what chain size I need and post a cheap 50 tooth for under $30 if possible. Thanks.
LC. out.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
Kicked out of the library because they are closing again!! No internet until Monday!!! Pleeeeeease post me a link for the 50 tooth so I can just order it then. Thanks.
LC. out.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Likely is LHS, so won't work on right side. - confirm with seller!latecurtis said:http://www.ebay.com/itm/80cc-Motor-engine-bike-parts-50-teeth-freewheel-sprocket-/400658308909?hash=item5d49189f2d
Will this work. I am still looking. I would like to find something cheaper or it will be next month.
If your motor sprocket uses the same chain as your wheel sprocket, it is #410 size.
You have to contact the seller and confirm compatibility!
As large as #415 will likely be compatible.
latecurtis
100 MW
DA the kits you posted on page 82 for $695. Will they work with a 415. It says 410. Also will it work for a 50 tooth? I would like to see it put togeather with a sprocket. I really dont get how I could pedal also with a fixed sprocket bolted to the wheel. Can you explain it or show a video or pictures. It would be great to pedal too. Can I install it on the same side as the pedal sprocket or does it have to go on the opposite side? Thanks.
LC. out
LC. out
DrkAngel
1 GW
$6.95 = < $7
From the list I made for you ... 48 and 56T are available.
One size larger chain is usually acceptable.
Depends on clearance ...
Did you watch the install video?
9 bolt format is optimal for 36 spoke wheel.
From the list I made for you ... 48 and 56T are available.
One size larger chain is usually acceptable.
Depends on clearance ...
Did you watch the install video?
9 bolt format is optimal for 36 spoke wheel.
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 9/12 - 9/14 True miracle / Super miracle.
9/12
I was at Erics house and posted quickly earlier. Thanks for posting DA. I may not get a screw on sprocket. I would like to keep the option of pedaling. It would be a shame to put all this time and effort into this hair brained build only to have the police take it away. I don’t see the weed whacker motor bikes anymore. I figured that. They were too loud. The cops must have got them.
It is too bad because once I finally get this thing going I was hoping to blow them off the road. I was thinking about a rear camera for comedy purposes. I could video Doug on his Haro all pissed off pedaling like hell trying to keep up once I upgrade to 48V plus I would love to see the look on the faces of the guys on those pesky little gas motor bikes too when I blow by them.
I wonder what happened to Skalabala. He posted that monster size brushless motor from China a few pages back. That thing looked sick!! That is the last we heard from him. I hope he is ok. You guys are worried about brakes on a bike that I don’t even have running yet. I am worried about Skalabala! That motor looked like it would go 60mph easily. It was huge!!! I hope he is alright.
Sunder from the land down under. I am glad you are posting again. I will do a video of the Schwinn and the kit in action. I am waiting on a speedometer. I ride it when I need to. It is like a Cadillac. Awesome!! The thing is I have problems getting it up the stairs with my bad knee and back. It is heavy and if I lock it outside it will get stolen in this neighborhood. That plus I don’t want the cops to take it.
I would rather they get a less expensive bike. A unite motor is $80 and a cheap Chinese controller about $15. That and used SLA batteries. It is about 1/3 the cost of replacing the front kit, the Schwinn and the LIPO packs. Plus I got a 20" Hyper frame with wheels ready to build if they take my 20" Diamond Back.
I really don’t understand the concept of a sprocket bolted to the spokes. I really don’t want to have to unhook my motor and turn it around if I can simply install a sprocket to the spokes and still pedal. It is exactly what I am looking for but I just don’t understand the mechanics of it. The Currie rear wheel has a freewheel for pedal and on the opposite side a freewheel for the motor, not a fixed wheel sprocket for the motor.
Another thing is if a sprocket can be bolted to the spokes what about a 16" outer rim. The one picture of a belt drive that shows the 26" wheel with the spokes going thru a 20" rim is what I am talking about only I want to try it with a 20" rim and either a 16" , 18"or a 12" rim attached to it but without having to rebuild the whole wheel basically. Simply a bolt on deal.
Even if I go with a screw on sprocket for the 20" Diamond Back I still have the 20" Hyper frame and two 24V 280W unite motors from those razor scooters. I am upgrading the Diamond Back to 48V anyway and to be totally honest I should have never unhooked the dual motor set up because it was actually functioning and hooked up by me without any bike shop or other person doing anything. I posted several videos of the build in action.
Hooked to a 36V controller they were each turning 2100rpm@18V in series. Total wattage was 420 and top speed was about 10mph on flat without the chain popping off. Uphill was never tested for obvious reasons. The point is they could both run a belt drive with a 16" or 18” outer rim bolted to a 20" wheel and be much more reliable. It would be front driven with no front brakes but I could get a costar brake plus working regular rear brakes.
However with my poor mechanical skills how could I mount such a thing without it being crooked? I can’t do a sprocket bolted to a freewheel so how in the hell am I going to succeed in bolting one to the spokes. I would really love to have a 50 tooth spoke sprocket and be able to pedal without reinstalling the motor but can it really happen? All I can say is if it can I would consider that to be a true miracle. A fork mount belt drive with two motors built by me? That would be a super miracle.
9/14
It is 12:14 am. I worked most of the day on the bike. I decided the front fork mount was better. I had some success with the Dual motors and came close at Randy’s. It actually went three blocks last month before the shitty #25 chain popped off. I came to the conclusion that the farther away the motor sprocket is from the wheel sprocket the worse it is. The rear mount would never work. At least now there is a chance.
I will need to get the wheel straightened and then Ricky can put the chain on and I can try it. Notice the thick wide steel bolted to the handlebars. Two bolts are stabilizing the motor. The bracket bolted to the handlebars bolted thru the upper right hole. Pic 5 & 6.
And a large bolt going thru where the front brake assembly was. Pic 2. Randy drilled it out for an extra-large bolt. And the lower left hole on the motor bracket was drilled out like a slot so there is about 1/2" to slide left or right for adjustment. There is also a washer in between the bottom bolt and the fork. It is about 99.5% perfect. Pic 1. A slightly thinner washer may get it to 100% or 99.9% if need be. Without a washer it was slightly off the other way.
That is a front wheel and had a #25 - 60 tooth sprocket bolted to it. Pic 3 & 4. I removed it and bolted a 40 tooth pedal crank sprocket I think which is the same tooth as the 9 tooth motor sprocket from the Currie motor. I know I should use a 50 tooth but don’t have one and I don’t have money to order one. It will be geared high and I may have to walk it up a few hills but at least it will be finished and it should be good for at least 25mph@36V on the flat.
Standard mountain bike chain. Either 410 or 415 pitch? I think? I am still not sure but with the larger chain, heavy duty bracket and large bolt with washer for fine tuning the sprockets I believe a miracle can happen! See rear basket. Pic 8 & 9. It is now capable of holding six 12Ah SLAs perfectly without any sliding around. A future 60V brushless motor upgrade looks possible.
Pic 10 shows a super butcher job done to the inside of the fork which I assure you I am not proud of! It was very painful to even photo something like that!! Pic 11 shows the other side of the catasterphy. A Torque arm installed there may help. Also what is the strongest liquid weld? I could put a small piece of metal where I cut to make it stronger. A small bolt running thru the center of the hole could make it stronger too. Maybe with liquid weld around it.
I have a lot of extra hardware so the basket on the front for hauling stuff will be heavy duty. Yes I do have an idea on how to mount front brakes behind the forks. pic 7. It will require 2 small L brackets and a very small hole drilled thru each fork slightly below the motor bolt. The brackets will be at a slight angle. The brackets will connect and the bolt supporting the caliper will run thru both brackets about 1/2" behind the motor bolt.
I am still raising the seat and adding an extension to the handlebars. This will enable easier pedaling and steering similar to the 20" fold up e bike worth $1,200. I see it all the time right around the corner. The guy said it had a motor on it. It must have burnt out.
9/14 4:59pm
Broke again as usual. The ol lady’s in a rotten mood so no chance in getting $20 from her to go to a bike shop to straighten the wheel. I am done working on it. I don’t have the machine or capability to straighten a wheel. Even if I did take it to the shop they would probably refuse to work on it for some reason. I would end up punching someone in the face.
Also The last time I tried hooking up a chain I used a channel lock and pliers and twisted the shit out of it until it broke and it was ruined after that. Also the only chain I have is for the Currie pedal or the Schwinn pedal and they are the wrong chain. It is better to throw in the towel now then to hook it up and fail again. I would end up totally destroying the bike with two hammers and throwing it over a bridge. I might better just leave it alone. It looks like I took this build as far as I can for now. Thanks.
LC. out.
9/12
I was at Erics house and posted quickly earlier. Thanks for posting DA. I may not get a screw on sprocket. I would like to keep the option of pedaling. It would be a shame to put all this time and effort into this hair brained build only to have the police take it away. I don’t see the weed whacker motor bikes anymore. I figured that. They were too loud. The cops must have got them.
It is too bad because once I finally get this thing going I was hoping to blow them off the road. I was thinking about a rear camera for comedy purposes. I could video Doug on his Haro all pissed off pedaling like hell trying to keep up once I upgrade to 48V plus I would love to see the look on the faces of the guys on those pesky little gas motor bikes too when I blow by them.
I wonder what happened to Skalabala. He posted that monster size brushless motor from China a few pages back. That thing looked sick!! That is the last we heard from him. I hope he is ok. You guys are worried about brakes on a bike that I don’t even have running yet. I am worried about Skalabala! That motor looked like it would go 60mph easily. It was huge!!! I hope he is alright.
Sunder from the land down under. I am glad you are posting again. I will do a video of the Schwinn and the kit in action. I am waiting on a speedometer. I ride it when I need to. It is like a Cadillac. Awesome!! The thing is I have problems getting it up the stairs with my bad knee and back. It is heavy and if I lock it outside it will get stolen in this neighborhood. That plus I don’t want the cops to take it.
I would rather they get a less expensive bike. A unite motor is $80 and a cheap Chinese controller about $15. That and used SLA batteries. It is about 1/3 the cost of replacing the front kit, the Schwinn and the LIPO packs. Plus I got a 20" Hyper frame with wheels ready to build if they take my 20" Diamond Back.
I really don’t understand the concept of a sprocket bolted to the spokes. I really don’t want to have to unhook my motor and turn it around if I can simply install a sprocket to the spokes and still pedal. It is exactly what I am looking for but I just don’t understand the mechanics of it. The Currie rear wheel has a freewheel for pedal and on the opposite side a freewheel for the motor, not a fixed wheel sprocket for the motor.
Another thing is if a sprocket can be bolted to the spokes what about a 16" outer rim. The one picture of a belt drive that shows the 26" wheel with the spokes going thru a 20" rim is what I am talking about only I want to try it with a 20" rim and either a 16" , 18"or a 12" rim attached to it but without having to rebuild the whole wheel basically. Simply a bolt on deal.
Even if I go with a screw on sprocket for the 20" Diamond Back I still have the 20" Hyper frame and two 24V 280W unite motors from those razor scooters. I am upgrading the Diamond Back to 48V anyway and to be totally honest I should have never unhooked the dual motor set up because it was actually functioning and hooked up by me without any bike shop or other person doing anything. I posted several videos of the build in action.
Hooked to a 36V controller they were each turning 2100rpm@18V in series. Total wattage was 420 and top speed was about 10mph on flat without the chain popping off. Uphill was never tested for obvious reasons. The point is they could both run a belt drive with a 16" or 18” outer rim bolted to a 20" wheel and be much more reliable. It would be front driven with no front brakes but I could get a costar brake plus working regular rear brakes.
However with my poor mechanical skills how could I mount such a thing without it being crooked? I can’t do a sprocket bolted to a freewheel so how in the hell am I going to succeed in bolting one to the spokes. I would really love to have a 50 tooth spoke sprocket and be able to pedal without reinstalling the motor but can it really happen? All I can say is if it can I would consider that to be a true miracle. A fork mount belt drive with two motors built by me? That would be a super miracle.
9/14
It is 12:14 am. I worked most of the day on the bike. I decided the front fork mount was better. I had some success with the Dual motors and came close at Randy’s. It actually went three blocks last month before the shitty #25 chain popped off. I came to the conclusion that the farther away the motor sprocket is from the wheel sprocket the worse it is. The rear mount would never work. At least now there is a chance.
I will need to get the wheel straightened and then Ricky can put the chain on and I can try it. Notice the thick wide steel bolted to the handlebars. Two bolts are stabilizing the motor. The bracket bolted to the handlebars bolted thru the upper right hole. Pic 5 & 6.
And a large bolt going thru where the front brake assembly was. Pic 2. Randy drilled it out for an extra-large bolt. And the lower left hole on the motor bracket was drilled out like a slot so there is about 1/2" to slide left or right for adjustment. There is also a washer in between the bottom bolt and the fork. It is about 99.5% perfect. Pic 1. A slightly thinner washer may get it to 100% or 99.9% if need be. Without a washer it was slightly off the other way.
That is a front wheel and had a #25 - 60 tooth sprocket bolted to it. Pic 3 & 4. I removed it and bolted a 40 tooth pedal crank sprocket I think which is the same tooth as the 9 tooth motor sprocket from the Currie motor. I know I should use a 50 tooth but don’t have one and I don’t have money to order one. It will be geared high and I may have to walk it up a few hills but at least it will be finished and it should be good for at least 25mph@36V on the flat.
Standard mountain bike chain. Either 410 or 415 pitch? I think? I am still not sure but with the larger chain, heavy duty bracket and large bolt with washer for fine tuning the sprockets I believe a miracle can happen! See rear basket. Pic 8 & 9. It is now capable of holding six 12Ah SLAs perfectly without any sliding around. A future 60V brushless motor upgrade looks possible.
Pic 10 shows a super butcher job done to the inside of the fork which I assure you I am not proud of! It was very painful to even photo something like that!! Pic 11 shows the other side of the catasterphy. A Torque arm installed there may help. Also what is the strongest liquid weld? I could put a small piece of metal where I cut to make it stronger. A small bolt running thru the center of the hole could make it stronger too. Maybe with liquid weld around it.
I have a lot of extra hardware so the basket on the front for hauling stuff will be heavy duty. Yes I do have an idea on how to mount front brakes behind the forks. pic 7. It will require 2 small L brackets and a very small hole drilled thru each fork slightly below the motor bolt. The brackets will be at a slight angle. The brackets will connect and the bolt supporting the caliper will run thru both brackets about 1/2" behind the motor bolt.
I am still raising the seat and adding an extension to the handlebars. This will enable easier pedaling and steering similar to the 20" fold up e bike worth $1,200. I see it all the time right around the corner. The guy said it had a motor on it. It must have burnt out.
9/14 4:59pm
Broke again as usual. The ol lady’s in a rotten mood so no chance in getting $20 from her to go to a bike shop to straighten the wheel. I am done working on it. I don’t have the machine or capability to straighten a wheel. Even if I did take it to the shop they would probably refuse to work on it for some reason. I would end up punching someone in the face.
Also The last time I tried hooking up a chain I used a channel lock and pliers and twisted the shit out of it until it broke and it was ruined after that. Also the only chain I have is for the Currie pedal or the Schwinn pedal and they are the wrong chain. It is better to throw in the towel now then to hook it up and fail again. I would end up totally destroying the bike with two hammers and throwing it over a bridge. I might better just leave it alone. It looks like I took this build as far as I can for now. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I just watched the video. I went back and found it. Thanks DA. I can do that. I am happy now as if the current set up I am trying fails at least I can get it running next month by ordering the mount kit and new sprocket. That is great as now if I fail I wont destroy the bike as I know I can succeed. I found an old bike in the trash and the chain seems to fit even though it is not exact. It is at Dougs now. I will attempt to get it going either today or tomorrow. Thanks.
LC out.
LC out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
You need one of these:
Was thinking of getting one myself, but more for safety than to see the faces of anyone I blow off.
latecurtis said:
I think we're more worried about the life that the brake saves, than the brake itself!
latecurtis said:
I'm glad you've got a bike that works well that you can rely on if your project job takes you off the road.
latecurtis said:
Just bought a spoke wrench for $6, though you could do it with a set of pliers if you're careful. But it's not hard to get moderate to big wobbles out of the wheel yourself. I got mine down to less than 1mm variation, which is well within tolerance of a good brake feel, and a smooth ride.
Watch a video on how to do it, but basically the only thing you need to remember is that you tighten the side you want to pull the rim towards, and you make small adjustments over 3-4 spokes, not one big adjustment on one spoke. You also need to remember that tighten is counter-intuitive on spokes. That is, if you're looking from the hub of the wheel to the rim, it's rightly loosely, leftly tightly.
Re: My plans, I've been riding my bike almost every day to work now. It's a solid work horse rather than a project. However, I am intending to turn it from a Toyota Camry, into a Tesla Model S (S for Sunder). The mods I've got lined up are:
1. Field Oriented Controller - No more motor buzz, and since it's Justin's premium product, I can program almost everything in there! Setting it at 800W peak to start off with, but want to get to 1.2-1.5kw depending on heat management.
2. Upgrade to 16S from 12S. It should bring my speed from ~40kmh to 54km/h unloaded speed.
3. Remove triple front ring 28/38/48 for a 54 or 56 single, and change the rear from a bad quality DNP 32-11t to a high quality Shimano 32 to 12t. I never use the bottom two rings at the front anyway, and I'm sick of the chain noise/chain slipping. Those DNP freewheels are very hit and miss. I got one good one , which I foolishly gave to a friend, and I bought a replacement, which was absolute crap.
4. Change my 32mm semi-offroad tyres to 37mm commuter tyres. I can lower my minimum tyre pressure from 55psi to 40 psi, and still get better rolling resistance. More comfortable ride, without losing speed.
5. Paint the inside of the hub with a matte black, and fill it with ATF to better manage heat. I'm hoping the Q100H can handle more power than the Q100, which topped out at 800w continuous, and 1000w short bursts. I'm hoping to be able to cruise at 50km/h without pedaling.
A lot of work there, but I won't be able to do much of it until next weekend. This weekend, the missus has sent the kids to the in-laws, booked us for a hotel room in Australia's wine making region, and packed the lingerie. And we all know what that means, right?. You guessed it. It means she won't appreciate me bringing the bike and working on it. Oh well, the things you do to keep the wife happy, right?
DAND214
10 MW
Good luck this weekend, hope you make it back!
Wish I was there
Dan
Wish I was there
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brushless-Hub-Motor-48V-1000W-Rear-Wheel-Powerful-Motor-for-Electric-Bike-Ebike-/121486505127?hash=item1c4928f4a7
I am down town. I forgot my flash drive. As the ... will post tomorrow. I saw this on e bay. It is the cheapest I ever saw for that. It is good if you know how to build a wheel. I dont but at that price I may want to learn. I hope someone can use this. It probably wont be there for long. Thanks.
LC. out.
I am down town. I forgot my flash drive. As the ... will post tomorrow. I saw this on e bay. It is the cheapest I ever saw for that. It is good if you know how to build a wheel. I dont but at that price I may want to learn. I hope someone can use this. It probably wont be there for long. Thanks.
LC. out.
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