new eZip motor

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Are you seriously considering a rear hub for the 20" bike? It's probably an easier way to do it than the current way you're looking at.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Not a fork motor!

7/16
I had to go to Wall-Mart and get 1/2" by 1/8" chain. I now have the correct chain to run the current motor and sprocket set up. I was thinking when I was walking back that it will be extremely difficult to get the chain tight as the bolt going thru the center of the forks for the brake caliper will make it impossible to raise the motor up to tighten the chain.

Also if I make the heavy duty brackets longer I can use four bolts to reinstall the motor. The motor and chain will be in the way of any brake system installed in front of the forks but it should be simple to run the brakes behind the forks using the center hole. It should work perfect mounting the brakes backwards.

I will be taking the Schwinn to Home Depot tomorrow and getting heavy duty nuts and bolts. Since the motor will be mounted to brackets which bolt to the handlebars it will not be a fork mount in any shape or form. It will however have front and rear brakes and a pedal chain for when I need to pedal.

Two great things happened today. The first was that video DA posted on installing the spoke sprocket. The second was I called Custom Motored Bicycles. I found it on google. I talked to the lady who owns and runs the company. I should be able to get the 50 tooth I need.

9/17 - 9/18 I fell down and went boom!!

I flipped the Schwinn over on the way back from the home depot today. It was still daylight when I got there and I was only in there a half an hour at most but on the way home it was dark. I have night blindness. I never liked driving a car at night. No I was not going fast. Maybe 12mph at most. if I were to guess. I was riding the shoulder of the road, uneven gravel at the side. There was a broken off section, not a pothole. The shoulder had a steep slope with uneven gravel on the side.

I hit it hard enough to flip it forward and landed on the handlebars’ bruised up my ribs a little and scraped up my arm. I will live. A guy with a truck saw it and helped me out with his lights so I could see to hook my Lipos back up. The metal cash box protected them. The handlebars were a little crooked but I twisted them back on the spot but now there is a little wobble in the front wheel kit. Fortunately is is not bad. It just sucks. Now it is not 100% perfect!

Everybody worries about brakes! Brakes don’t mean anything if you don’t see it coming. That is what you have to worry about. The unexpected or unseen! Brakes are of little or no help in those situations. I can’t remember when I wiped out in broad daylight. 40+ years of riding I can never remember poor or no brakes being the cause of a bike accident.

The last time I tipped over was over two years ago. I was already at the bottom of the hill and crossing an intersection at night. A guy came speeding from the off ramp at least 60mph with no turn signal. It was night and if he turned left I would have got run over so I got across as quick as possible but tipped the Currie over on the sidewalk on the other side to avoid the car.

I got good news from my doctor earlier. LSH and LH hormones are back to normal. I am still having an MRI done Tuesday to make sure there is no tumor in my brain. I am working on reinstalling the motor. That is what I am doing now. It should be running soon. Check out these brackets. I got 5/8" bolts now. pic 01 & 02. I learned not to go with cheap hardware. When the motor gets mounted and the chain hooked up this thing should be rolling as long as the wheel holds up. If not the wheel and sprocket will be replaced with new. Either way I am finishing this build.

9/19 A nightmare on my street.

I could not post at the Library. Only 5 PCs work. I wish DA were here. He could fix them. I went home and installed my motor and did test runs. Pic 04 thru 09 show a perfect install totally independent of the forks. four 1/4" bolts and two brand new steel brackets were used to finish it.

The chain popped about three blocks away. I got about 15mph maybe before it came off. I put it back on and came home. I got it real tight and tried again and I kept losing power to the motor. Then no power! I retaped the throttle wires. Finally I broke out the volt meter. I checked voltage going to motor, throttle pressed and got over 40V. Nothing!

See pic 03. That was the cause. A total nightmare! It was not my first rodeo though! The magnets came completely out of their sleeves. All four of them. It was worse than what happened to the first Unite motor at the beginning of this post when the entire core came out. It was on the first few pages. The little ring came out. It did this time too. I don’t recall how I got the motor back together before but figured it out anyway.

I had no solder and had to trim the end of the wire and physically twist it to the copper going to the magnet. Small rubber bands and electrical tape were used to hold back the magnets. Rubber don’t conduct electricity. I figured if a piece got stuck in there it would still work. I ran the bands thru looping them around the copper wire going to the magnets and taping the ends to the motor. After it was on and before tightening up the bolts the tape was removed and the bands pulled out.

The results were w1 and w2. I can’t post a video greater than 512kb. Slowing down the video will show how bent up everything is. I knew before even hooking up the chain the motor sprocket is bent from beating the Currie motor with a hammer to get it off. The wheel sprocket is just a little crooked and the rim is really bent. I will still post a video tomorrow riding it. It is a step up from the dual motor set up I had before.

I will never even see 20mph without a new Motor sprocket and rear wheel and sprocket. I have to put money in the bank and order the sprockets and a new rear wheel now. That is totally ridiculous. Almost five months later plus lots of money and I am still ordering parts. The chain is 1/2" by 1/8" standard bike chain from Wall-Mart. I can order a custom 50 tooth from Custom Motored Bicycles and she will tell me what new rim to get.

Wheels and sprockets are my weakness! My mounting skills, problem solving and motor skills are progressing. I got the electronics down too. I am extremely disenchanted that nobody on this post feels the same way as I do on rebuilding DC motors. All I need is magnets and I am almost sure the Albania site has them but I did not find them. I don’t even know how to place an order there or how it works. I have chisels and Ricky has a grinder next door. We can remove the old broken magnet pieces. New magnets could fix the old Unite motor for the Currie.

I really want to know what motor sprocket will work best also. She may know but just in case does anybody know what it is called. Monster scooter parts may have it but I don’t know what to look for. 1/2 by 1/8" is the chain. What is the number for the sprockets. Her prices may be too high also. I don’t want to spend much more on this. If I know what parts I am looking for it will be easier and cheaper to acquire them.

9/20 A bit of success!

There is so much information on this post. It is long because I never have internet to post. Eric and I are starting a bike shop. The bike I found in the trash was his. Someone stole it out of his back yard. I returned it last night and we cleaned out Randys shed. Randy moved and most of the bikes and parts were Erics anyway. Randy said take everything.

There are 26", 20", 18" and 12" bikes. some of those rims can be used for friction drives. I may find a strait 20" rim also. The lady at Custom Motored Bicycles sells some sort of disk brake attachment to mount her wheel sprockets. I am not sure if any wheel will work or it has to have the disk set up.

The mounting kits were cheap but I need to price the sprockets themselves. I gave one of my smaller motors away but the guy said it was too small for his scooter. I will try to get it back. If I take a small 280W 24V motor and hook it up to an extra-large spoke sprocket I won’t get much speed. 5 to 10mph but will it climb a hill without burning out?

I want all my motor projects to use the same sprocket as the 9 tooth. 1/2" by 1/8" chain. I don’t care if that means the sprocket for the wheel will be very large. That is ok. If it will be too big than it will be a friction drive anyway. We are picking up any bike part we can find. We also have the scrapper who goes out and I am sure I can get bikes from other scrappers cheap. I will be spending a lot of time gathering bikes and parts.

I will be doing a short test run today. What is with this 512 kb limit on posting video? It is really annoying. I know earlier on at the start of this post I posted videos much larger. Please look into that also if you can.

Here is the videos. test1 and test2. The parking lot is perfect for testing. No I don’t have brakes yet. That is why I tested it there. It is basically my back yard. Right around the corner from my apartment. I will not ride it again until I get brakes hooked up. I may get 15mph now but am sure 20 or 25mph will pop the chain. I am dealing with a bent motor and wheel sprocket as well as the rim. I still managed to get this far though. It is a lot faster than the dual motor set up was.

I would really like to know what the number for the tooth of the motor and wheel sprockets I will need. I need a real cheap connection as I plan on ordering a lot when I start building and selling e bikes. I need a 9 tooth A.S.A.P to replace the bent one I am currently using. Also the pulley part that replaces the motor sprocket. I will need a link for that too. I plan on a lot of friction drives also and they need to happen dirt cheap so I can turn a profit.

Thanks and please post those answers and links when you can.

Sincerely. LC. out.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/415-44T-Sprocket-Mount-Kit-49cc-50cc-66cc-80cc-Engine-Motorized-Bicycle-H-RS09-/181076647000?hash=item2a29025c58&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-alloy-front-bicycle-wheel-/141281852111?hash=item20e50dfacf

Will this sprocket kit work with this wheel?


This looks way too small.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-Tooth-Sprocket-Electric-Scooter-Motor-Engine-Parts-Motor-Pinion-Gear-MY1016Z-/261838585569?hash=item3cf6cbbee1&vxp=mtr
 
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/9-tooth-sprocket-currie.html

I believe that is the replacement for the 9 tooth that got bent I am using now. However it was designed for Currie motors. I pounded the crap out of it to get it off the Currie motor and made it fit on the Unite motor. I am wondering if I should get a different 9 tooth the same tooth size but designed for the Unite motor. It works as the video shows but it is far from perfect.

I want to get the correct motor sprocket for the Unite motor. I have a 1/2" by 1/8" chain from Wall- Mart. The 9 tooth motor sprocket and 44 tooth wheel sprocket must fit. I did not see a 50 tooth. It will still be over geared. It will be geared for 27mph@36V and 35mph@44V. It will be better than the 40 tooth I have now though. It is geared for 30mph@36V and 750W now. However I doubt it will go 20mph without the chain coming off as the motor sprocket is slightly bent. The wheel sprocket is just a little off and the rim is bent.

I would like to be able to post an on board video once I get my brakes hooked up. I may be able to mount the camera so it shows the chain and wheel spinning as I am riding. This way it will show the weak points for you guys to see so I know what parts I should replace first as I have limited funds. How can I do that with a 512kb limit? I will work on the brakes for now but want to order the new parts when I get more money. Probably next month. Please let me know if those links I posted will work. Please let me know. Thanks.


LC. out.
 
Hey LC, be sure to read the specs on what you read or post. The one link said 415 chain and the other was 410? I can't help you there, the only chain I ever used was #35 chain on my Enduro karts before I switched to cog belt drive. I know there was 410 chain after that but never used it.
HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED, TO LEARN HOW TO ADJUST YOUR BAD WHEELS [urlhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-6-Way-Spoke-Nipple-Key-Bike-Cycling-Wheel-Rim-Spanner-Wrench-Repair-Tool-/161728469454?hash=item25a7c499ce][/url]Cheap not the greatest but they work. Keep it up LC, we are waiting.

Dan
 
1st! find out what size shaft mount you need!
Most of the MY1020 I've seen use 10mm Dual D sprocket
$_12.JPG

$_12.JPG


11T Dual D drive sprockets for #410 or #415 chain

44-48-50-56T 9 hole spoke mount sprockets

Last time! ... The 9 hole spoke mount sprockets are designed for 36 spoke wheels!!!
... the bolts fit between every 2nd spoke. Any differing number of spokes will not work properly ... (except 18?)

(I strive to supply brief-concise-relevant information ... so I am perplexed why you fail to take the few necessary seconds to actually read it.)
 
1.jpg
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 5 to 60mph.

The day I tipped over the bike I bruised and maybe fractured my ribs. I could barely get the Schwinn up the stairs with my ol lady pulling and me pushing when I got back. I have not rode it since and am still in pain. I did not even try to get it down stairs today. I had to walk three miles to the hospital today for an MRI. It was for nothing as they need more blood work first and have to re schedule.
I tried to get Doug to hook the brakes up yesterday. I even gave him the two computers I found. I got a piece of shit frame for the PCs that have the shitty cables that pop out. The ones I hate! Too make matters worse he would not hook them up. Some girl showed up and he left me and his three other friends out back.

We all had a beer and waited for him but he took off with the girl. Doug is young. I need say no more. I was the same at his age. He is 27. I did not hold it against him even though he was supposed to have a girl in the house. I did the same shit at that age. I had a girl in three different towns and drove a Cadillac around to see all three. What could I say? Eric’s son Nicky was going to try and hook them up for $10 but he is 13 years old.

I called the bike shop today. I explained the situation. They know it is electric and won’t work on anything to do with that part of it but placed an order for good brakes. Odyssey I think he said. I said I want good ones. $44 for front and rear and $20 for installation.

I worked on the Diamond Back last night. I wanted the handle bars higher. Pic 1. I also raised the seat by cutting another seat post off with a hack saw and putting it over the first one. I ran a sturdy bolt thru it today so it can’t turn. Pic 2. I installed the front basket. Pic 3. There are two bolts it sits on. Pic 4 and three bolts securing it to the large motor brackets. Pic 11.The bungee cord keeps the handlebars on the top bar from moving as it attaches them to the basket bolted to the hardware below. They cannot move forward or backwards.

I am still planning on extending the handle bars out on each sidepiece 5 & 6 show why. There is not enough room for brakes and throttle. I will put pipes over them on each side and run a bolt thru them. There will be extra room for a speed o and maybe even an on board camera.

This set up left plenty of room for brakes when the bike shop hooks them up. Pic 7 & 8. The Diamond Back is 14" shorter than the Schwinn. Pic 9. Being shorter helps the sharp turn towards the top of the stairs. Also the smaller wheels make it a lot easier to carry. The big 26" wheels hit the stairs on the way down throwing me off balance and the heavy hub motor gets hung up on the top steps as the back hits and damages the wall at the turn.

It is difficult climbing stairs anyway with a knee and back that need surgery. Wrestling a big mountain bike too when my arthritis kicks up or I have had a few beers is ridiculous. The 20" bike is almost as heavy as the Schwinn with the motor and all those brackets but it makes up for it by the wheels not hitting the steps or the wall and the turn is easy at the top with the smaller wheels. I posted a video on it a few pages back if anyone is still wondering why I am going thru so much trouble for this build.

Pic 10 shows why a spoke sprocket won’t work for these rims. I rode it today to go meet a friend I have not seen in a while. I had to walk it downhill a ways. The current 40 tooth sprocket set up did not perform well back up the hill. I was not surprised. I will need a bigger sprocket. I am glad the spoke kit is a 44 tooth. That plus with a new controller I can run 44.4V Lipo. That should make a difference.
With the seat higher I am ready for a pedal chain also. I am hoping Nicky can at least get a temporary brake and the chain for the pedal so I can get some groceries. Maybe even a back rim with a coaster brake for now.

There are no steep or long hills going to the supermarket. I think the SLAs may be on their way out. If I go slow and easy I might be able to make the trip with temporary brakes. If not I will go about 5 mph on the flat and walk it up and down hills for now. It beats a backpack or pushing a shopping cart. I have to do something. We need food! That is why I miss the Currie and am keeping it for when I move to a first floor place so I can hook it up like it was but 48V. It was the ultimate pickup truck.

I wish Skakabala would post on that big brushless motor. The Diamond Back looks like it will be my 5mph grocery getting sidewalk special! I am going to bed soon and hope to dream about that 20" Hyper frame with a motor that goes 50mph. If I win my SSI I am either ordering that or the 3,300W Amp Flow motor. Would two of those Amp Flow motors one on the front and one on the back roll a 20" bike 60mph? :twisted: Thanks.
LC. out.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000W-48V-electric-motor-w-Base-f-scooter-bike-go-kart-minibike-MY1020-/151566070059?hash=item234a0ab12b

That is the link for the motor I ordered.
 
1st! find out what size shaft mount you need!
Most of the MY1020 I've seen use 10mm Dual D sprocket
Click to expand...
\

I don't see that specific info.

I really want to make sure I order the correct motor sprocket first before ordering a new wheel and spoke sprocket. I believe the Currie 9 tooth motor sprocket that is on there now got bent from violently removing it from the Currie motor with two hammers. Also I don't believe it was supposed to go on the MY1020 motor either. I just made it happen anyway. It's what I do! I will still order the new wheel and spoke kit but wish I could get one with the 50 tooth sprocket I need.

I tested it up hill yesterday as I said and the chain did not come off however I seriously doubt the chain will stay of if I attempt top speed. I cant put it to the test now obviously as I have no brakes. I know that the faster I go the more the chain wobbles. Since I have time on my hands I will try to mount the camera so that I can record the chain and sprockets turning. If I succeed I would appreciate feedback on it. I need to address the weakest link first and then replace parts in that order as funds on my end are always limited. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Damn!
Hob cobble an overtaxed frame-bike then push it to 60mph?

Some sort of death wish?
 
Not happening any time soon! If it does I will get life insurance and a full crash suite and find a clear track I guess.

Right now I just want to finish this build. And I finally found the edit button :lol:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-20-in-for-BMX-Old-Mid-School-Bike-36-spoke-5-16-in-Axle-Black-Rim-/281773696724?hash=item419b0566d4

I just found this. The edit button is fun. I cant believe I have been staring at it for over a year and did not notice it. That is unbeleavable!!!


http://www.jensonusa.com/!Ct79IEjmgbr4Mdq4qqszcQ!/Park-Tool-Repair-Stand-Mount-Truing-STND?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CNDZzqqMjsgCFZWRHwodEJAOuQ

I think I will be ordering one of these before an AmpFlow motor

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Bicycle-Nipple-Cycling-Spanner/dp/B00EH2TPN0

The link Dan posted did not open. I found this.

I am trying to figure out what spoke wrench and how many nipple sizes there is. However I am at the Library. I had to submit my section 8 application today and did not eat. I am as hungry as a hostage. I got to go. Thanks for your posts and keep posting if you can. I will try to get that video up Friday to find the weak links in my drivetrain. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
$44 for a set of brakes, and $20 to fit them...

Gee, I really hope they mean the entire assembly, and not just the pads. It looks like you already have side or centre pull brakes (Sorry too blurry to tell).

I got Deore XTR top of the line pads for like $4 a set, and fit them in less than 5 minutes per pair. The old set I had were adequate when the bike was pedaled, but once I had a motor on it, it just didn't give me the confidence to stop in time, when cars were pulling out in front of me. If I really clamp down on these ones, I can get the tail to lift, even with the motor and the battery on the back. It's insane.
 
latecurtis said:
1st! find out what size shaft mount you need!
Most of the MY1020 I've seen use 10mm Dual D sprocket
Click to expand...
\

I don't see that specific info.
Click to expand...
Take nut off MY1020 and look at shaft or the sprocket you took off it.
Compare to supplied pictures ...
latecurtis said:
I really want to make sure I order the correct motor sprocket first before ordering a new wheel and spoke sprocket. I believe the Currie 9 tooth motor sprocket that is on there now got bent from violently removing it from the Currie motor with two hammers. Also I don't believe it was supposed to go on the MY1020 motor either. I just made it happen anyway. It's what I do! I will still order the new wheel and spoke kit but wish I could get one with the 50 tooth sprocket I need.
Click to expand...
Gave you link to 44-48-50-56 sprockets - for 9 hole spoke mount
 
I am sorry DA but I checked page 82 where you posted the sprockets multiple times. I clicked on the links. It took me to e bay. two pages of kits. I did not see anything bigger than 44T. I even pasted the kit in the search box and changed 44 to 50T. nothing.

I will be posting As the ..... tommorow. I am showing Eric the video installing the kit on the bottom of page 82. Thanks. Post if you can.

LC. out.http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-Tooth-Sprocket-MOTORIZED-BICYCLE-KIT-GAS-POWERED-BIKE-MOTOR-KITS-MOPED-WHEEL/311449991707?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33603%26meid%3D4c2106d2a255483d96805fff4bfdfa57%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D262064510233

found that on what others viewed. That is close enough. I will order it.

I hope it is still available when I get the money.
 
latecurtis said:
I am sorry DA but I checked page 82 where you posted the sprockets multiple times. I clicked on the links. It took me to e bay. two pages of kits. I did not see anything bigger than 44T. I even pasted the kit in the search box and changed 44 to 50T. nothing.
Click to expand...
Previous post - on this page! = Gave you link to 44-48-50-56 sprockets - for 9 hole spoke mount
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns 50mph.
DA. I was not talking about the diamond back for 60mph. You said something about an overtaxed frame. This is the next project. pic 1 & 2. Another reason I was not pissed at Doug for not hooking up my brakes. Add pic 3 & 4 also. Yes they are 36 spoke! Now I won’t need to order a new rim or rims. Thank you for letting me know on your post yesterday. I plan on getting them trued when I get my brakes hooked up. That was all from the same deal with the stereos. And it was Dougs idea.

Nicky said the brakes I ordered are excellent. I decided on not using the front basket for hauling 60 pounds of weight. The front is already too heavy. The motor and those brackets weigh a lot. The batteries and controller will go up front. The large basket that was on the Currie will go on the back on my current build. I am ordering a 48V controller now. The cash box and the Lipos can go in the front basket with the new controller. There will be Less wires showing.

Doug also gave me a led light for my handlebars for night riding after I crashed the Schwinn. I am still hurting from that bike accident. I am not looking to collide with anything riding a bike period. pic five , six and 7 show the 11 tooth motor sprocket I took off the motor . I need a 9 tooth compatible with 1/2 by 1/8" chain . What is half link chain? Nicky tried showing me on his little phone but I could not see it well. I guess it is popular. Will it work for me and is there any advantage in using it?

If I ever get any money I am building the Hyper frame with the 3300W AmpFlow or the motor Skalabala posted. I wish he would post. I hope he is ok and got that thing going. The motor looked increasable!! The Hyper build will be rear drive. It will hook up to a sturdy reinforced rack and the spoke sprocket will be geared for about 47mph. I will record 50mph on a speedo going down a slight hill. I don’t want two motors for 60+ mph. 50mph is enough.

I got the front 36 spoke wheel for the Sidewalk special and the rear for the Ampflow motor on the hyper. I will go 50mph on an e bike. There is no stopping it. I never had a real crotch rocket! I never learned to drive standard vehicles or motorcycle clutches. Now they have ebikes that smoke crotch rockets! I saw the videos! I look at that AmpFlow motor like I looked at a 426 hemi for my 73 charger 28 years ago.

I will put money in the bank for the sprocket kit. I am waiting to order it as I want to replace the motor sprocket first and am not giving up on a 50 tooth for the wheel yet. I want to be able to climb hills with the Diamond Back. According to the calculator a 50 tooth mates with a 9 tooth for 30mph@48V, 3000rpm and 1,000W. Performance will suffer with a 44 tooth sprocket.

When I build the Hyper it will be for speed. I will get a crash safety helmet. I won’t ride it in the city. I will ride it in the country where there is little traffic and people. I grew up riding on country roads. I want to race my brother in laws four wheeler. Out where he lives there are straight roads for miles. Amish people drive horses and carriages. I want to blow past them too.

About 30 years ago I blew a state trooper off the road with a 73 Dodge Charger. It only had a 318 in it. I did not see him and ran a stop sign. I fishtailed it around a few corners and hit the straight away which goes for several miles. I was young and dumb back then. I realize now what I did was reckless and wrong. Someone including myself could have easily been killed.

A friend of mine was driving his mother’s Chevy Impalla. It had a 305 in it. I blew that off the road too a couple minutes later when he tried to catch up to me. My speedo was pinned at 120mph. His speedo only went to 85mph and was bouncing all around he said. I waved out the window as I left him in the dust. That road is smooth and straight for about a five mile stretch. 50mph on an e bike would be safe and easy there. 120mph with a 3,600lb is defiantly not safe though.

If I die I want to be buried with an e bike fast enough to escape from hell. Like that video Bat out of Hell only it will be me on an e bike instead of a crotch rocket. I would definitely get a kick out of smoking a crotch rocket someday. The AmpFlow motor is just a step towards the 20 kilowatt Astro motor which may put me in Hell and get me back out. I will need at least two more steps in between before I am ready for that.

The chances are I will chicken out after the AmpFlow motor though. I am not sure I am as brave as LiveForPhysics. I look at those death bike videos like I used to look at my friend Bobs 67 Dodge Cornet with the 440 Magnum when he was running 10.5 to 1 compression pistons, a 3/4 cam and an 1150 Holly double pumper. It was a 10 second car. He also had a 426 max wedge! The only thing faster than that back then was the Hemi.

I was a big motor head in the 80s. I had a 67 Barracuda hatchback also. three 73 chargers total one with a 440 but it blew up before I got to try it. I wish they would make a smaller version of the 71 Challenger with the fins on the back or the Roadrunner but with a 1.000hp electric motor capable of less than 6 seconds in the 1320 shuffle (Quarter mile).

For now I just want to get the Diamond Back running. I did not forget about the butcher job I did on the forks. When I take the wheel off and before I install the 36 spoke with the kit I will run a small bolt thru to strengthen it and put some sort of liquid weld and fill the hole with it. I just need to know what kind I should use. I need good stuff!

Please let me know and I also need to be absolutely positive I am ordering the correct motor and sprocket kit for my 1/2 by 1/8" chain. Please confirm it so I don’t order the wrong parts. I don’t need to be wasting money. I already have enough stuff I have ordered that I can’t use. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
9 tooth.pngOk I found the links. I want to start by ordering the 9 tooth motor sprocket tomorrow. It looks like the 11 tooth sprocket I took off the motor but slightly different. Maybe it is my eyes. The 11 tooth that came off the motor is directly above this post. I copied the picture from the link and pasted in windows paint. I saved the file to my flash and here it is. Please let me know if it is the right one. If not let me know which one is. I want to order the 9 tooth tomorrow. I am putting the money in the bank now.

Later when I have the money I will get the wheel sprocket. I found the 50 tooth 9 hole for $23 on the link you posted. I don't think it is the kit though so i will need the $695 mounting kit posted a few pages earlier. That is ok. Please let me know about the 9 tooth. I want to order it tomorrow. It looks a little different. Will it fit or do I need a different one. I know it will fit the chain. It is the motor shaft that is in question. Please let me know.Thanks.

LC. out.
 
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