new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

I went home and took the old sprocket off the MY1020 motor. The one with the broken magnets. It seems to be the same. Also the new Unite motor on the Diamond Back is not a MY1020 motor. The model number is ZY1020. I just looked it up and did not see that in a 1,000W model. As far as I can tell the MY1020 and the ZY1020 are the same motor except the ZY has the mounting plate and the other does not. They are both 1,000W, 48V and 3,000RPM. However when I had the ZY1020 motor apart to reattach the broken wire I was going to use the brush assembly with the good wires from the MY1020 motor with the broken magnets. I could not because the center pole piece was different. That is why I had to cut part of the wire and twist it around the wire going to the magnet as I had no solder.

I want to make absolutely sure I am ordering the correct 9 tooth sprocket to replace the bent one on there now. I am not wanting to reinstall the motor more than once more. I have to unhook the basket and the top handle bars now to lower the motor and unhook the chain. The bike is running now but not perfect. I want to replace the motor sprocket and the front wheel with the 36 spoke and the 50 tooth spoke sprocket plus fix the butcher job I did on the forks with a bolt and some kind of liquid weld around the bolt all at the same time. It is too much trouble to do otherwise.

I guess I am going to wait on the sprockets for now. I only have $20 right now and don't know when I will have more money. The bike shop will be getting the Odyssey brakes I ordered in. I will have to come up with about $70 total for the brakes and to have them installed. Also it will cost at least $15 to $20 to have the front 36 spoke wheel Trued before I install the 50 tooth spoke sprocket. It might be awhile. Also I need to extend the handle bars. I wish I could find a pedal chain with a back wheel that has a coaster brake for now so I could run it on the flat at least until I get everything I need to get it perfect.Please let me know for sure about the 9 tooth motor sprocket. I will search now. Post when you can.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I think the 9 tooth DA posted above the 50 tooth sprocket will work. I will measure the inside diameter of the 11 tooth I took off to be sure. I don't have money and when I do get money I am getting my brakes hooked up at the bike shop before I do anything else. After that the pedal chain. I will be able to run the bike like it is at 36V for awhile. Later on I will upgrade to 48V and get the new 9 tooth and 50 tooth sprockets I need for 30mph.

I went to my hearing today for SSI. If I win the first thing I am doing is ordering the 3300W AmpFlow motor and building a 50mph bike.Yes I am not going to listen to anybody. I may however get a crash helmet before I try it. I want to go 50mph on a bike and am going to do it. It will be fun. A lot of fun. I will video it but need to know how to post a video over 512kb. I will video the 20" bike when I get the brakes hooked up if I can post it. I am sick of compressing video. Please tell me how I can post a larger video than 512kb. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[slowhands]

...I am sick of compressing video. Please tell me how I can post a larger video than 512kb. Thanks.

LC. out.

The easy way is to put it up on Youtube and put the URL for it here. This board does not really have the disc space for big video. Google owns youtube and all the disc space you could ever want, so use theirs.

 

[DrkAngel]

The "D" sprocket should fit on the "Dual D" shaft ...
but may not work reliably.

The addition of a half moon shaped shim might allow proper operation with a moderate degree of reliability?

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 9/26 I can’t get no satisfaction.

There are a few things I don’t like about the Diamond Back. The front is too heavy. Also it can’t haul much. It is nothing like the Currie was. The thing that made the Currie special was where the batteries were mounted. Also I don’t like the extra handlebars either. It will be difficult to change a front tire. To unhook the chain for the motor everything needs to be unhooked and that is too much of a hassle.
I am going to work on it awhile I am waiting for the money to get my brakes done. I am going to steal the battery rack and hardware from the Currie. The SLAs will mount in the frame. The controller will mount up front. It will have two baskets. Front and rear. It will haul the same if not more than the Currie did.

For example when I haul groceries anything light can go in the front basket. It will have a 20lb limit. The rear basket a 40lb limit. With the SLAs in the frame weight distribution will be great like the Currie was. I will still get 30mph when I upgrade to a 48V controller and four 10Ah SLAs. I will need the new sprockets though. It will take some time but it will happen.

I will be starting the modifications soon after posting this tomorrow. It is 3:24am. I have been up since a little after 7am yesterday. I went to my hearing for SSI yesterday. I never went back to bed. I am tired and am going to sleep. I am sure I will dream about it going 30mph. I may even dream about that Amp Flow motor. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

slowhands. Thanks. However I never posted anything on youtube.

DA. Thank you for that information. That is the specific type of info I have been seeking. I am looking for 100% reliability. The 9 tooth from the Currie does work but is far from perfect. I may need a place that can machine a custom 9 tooth that will be the perfect fit. I am not sure. I am sure though that the 50 tooth and the spoke kit links will work.

I have some time before I upgrade to 48V and need the new 9 tooth though. I really hope to be able to solve the motor sprocket problem before then. Where can I get this half moon shaped shim?

I am currently attempting to build some sort of brackets that will allow me to mount SLAs to the frame. I don't want to use a milk crate like I did with the Currie. I will need to build brackets. It will not be really simple, however if I get the correct hardware relatively inexpensive. Please post any information on the motor sprocket issue if you can. The shim and possibly anyone who can machine a 9 tooth for the perfect fit. Thanks.

Sincerely LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pack-Apc-smart-ups-750-Battery-UB1280-12V-8Ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-SLA-AGM-/361191443219?hash=item5418b00b13

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PACK-OF-2-12-VOLT-10-AH-SEALED-LEAD-ACID-BATTERIES-FOR-ELECTRIC-SCOOTERS-SCHWINN-/141109200164?hash=item20dac38524

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-4pc-12V-8Ah-SLA-Battery-WB1280F2-For-UB1280-WKA12-8F-PS1280-FREE-USA-SHIP-/161830945459?hash=item25ade042b3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Sonic-4-Pack-12V-9AH-RBC17-SLA-Replacement-Battery-APC-UPS-BATTERY-/131212701729?hash=item1e8ce2f021

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPG-6-Pack-12V-8AH-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-Replaces-UB1280-D5743-Scooter-Whee-/380885543081?hash=item58ae8c28a9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPG-4-Pack-12V-8AH-SLA-Battery-for-Razor-e200-e200s-e225-e300-e300s-/191137207338?hash=item2c80aa542a

48V controller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Controller-48V-1000W-Motor-Brushed-DIY-Scooter-Bicycle-E-Bike-/281392475069?hash=item41844c6bbd&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Casil-CA12120-12v-12ah-F2-Sealed-Lead-Acid-AGM-Rechargeable-Deep-Cycle-Battery-/291373891838?hash=item43d73cc0fe



It looks like a cheap upgrade.

I know you guys think I am foolish to order SLAs However four 8 to 10Ah SLAs mounted in the frame will even out weight distribution get me up to 30mph and they are not a baby sitting job to charge. I only need the Diamond Back for five mile round trips so if I can get them cheap it is well worth it to me. I will post again Monday. Post if you can. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Easiest to add-weld and file the extra D from a single D.

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Am I still a NOOB! / Wood vs Steel.

9/27

I was going to the Home Depot to get brackets to mount the SLAs in the frame. I was also going to find some pipe to extend the handle bars. Doug called and needed Allen wrenches. I took some over for him to borrow. A kid was there and sold me a 20" girl’s bike cheap for parts. It has gears, a derailleur and shifter that work for pedal. Also brake levers and I think it has 36 spoke wheels. I did not count them yet. pic 1

There was no money left for the Depot. I got rid of the extra handlebars and the heavy steel brackets. I replaced them with wood. I had to lower the seat back to where it was so I can reach the handlebars. Pic 2 & 3. The bike weighs about 48 to 50lbs now. I don’t know how accurate the bathroom scales are. The brackets I removed were 5 pounds. The cut up basket hides the motor some.
I tried reinstalling the 9 tooth. I think it is worse now than it was. When I get money it is the first thing I am replacing. I will get overnight or two day shipping. I am not going to make it like the Currie. I will just get a large army type back pack for hauling things. I am kind of sick of working on it. I just want it finished.

Two 8Ah SLAs for $15 is a really good deal. With the $20 controller $50 is a very cheap 48V upgrade. If I need to go over five miles round trip I can unscrew the board which keeps the SLAs from sliding around and the cash box with the LIPO set up will fit in the back perfectly.

If it rains I can pull a black plastic trash bag down over the basket cover and wrap a bungee cord around the bottom of it to keep everything dry underneath. I can do the same thing in the back for the batteries also.

I may still extend the handlebars, raise the seat and install the pedal gears and shifter. The current handlebars don’t have enough room for the throttle, brakes and a shifter on the right side. I will have to cut it back towards the center on each side and get elbows and straight pipe to accomplish it. See pic extensions.

9/28

I was not sure it would work. When I tightened the bolts I heard the wood make a cracking sound. I knew it was about to split. Notice the extra-large washers. Pic 4 & 5. I replaced the small washers with extra-large washers. Basically the larger washers allow the bolts to be tightened down very tight without splitting the wood. The wood is very light pine I think. A dense wood such as oak would not have been much lighter than the thick steel.

It is also a soft wood as when I did not use a washer the bolt sank right into the wood until I could hardly get a wrench on it to tighten it. That is when I heard the cracking sound. It did not split though and the big washers will prevent splitting. The holes I drilled were slightly larger than the bolts that is why it did not split. Pic 6 shows the bent up steel brackets I used and the piece of wood I plan on using when I get bolts long enough. Notice the holes in the wood drilled.

Extra-large washers will allow me to tighten it more than those cheap bent up steel brackets. I tested out the bike after reinstalling the motor sprocket. I went about 1 -1/2 miles at least within a 4 block radius. I got it close to 15mph. Then I charged the SLAs for about three hours and went to Eric’s house and back which is about a mile and a half round trip also. Between 10 and 15mph top speed was possible.

The wooden brackets worked as well as the steel as far as I could tell. The problem is the motor sprocket and possibly the bent wheel and sprocket. 20mph is not happening as the closer I get to about 15mph the more noise and then there is shaking. It was the same with the steel so wood will work for mounting motors. It is easier to drill thru and cheaper to buy. I have never seen it done before. Am I the first to do it?

I AM A NOOB AND WANT TO GO 50 MPH WITH AN E BIKE. That was some funny shit DA. I went back and read it today. The things you said were about 85% true except for the NOOB part. It has been over two years since I started working on e bikes. I have had two Unite motors apart and fixed them and put them back together.

I installed the MY1020 motor on the Currie. I built a dual motor set up with two 24V 2800rpm motors and figured how to hook them to a 36V controller to run 18V each and 2100rpm each WITH A SINGLE MOTOR SPROCKET. I ran it for at least 7 miles before unhooking it to install the new 48V motor. I will be doing a similar build in the future only it will be a friction drive.

Now I have replaced heavy duty steel brackets with wood to install a motor. Who even heard of that! I can build almost anything out of wood. I built a six foot long 110 gallon fish tank out of odd pieces of plywood and had fish in it for two years. The bottom was not even one piece. I used 3 - 22-1/2" square Plexiglas panels for three windows in the front with plywood between. I used fiberglass resin, two gallons of drylock acrylic base to waterproof it and 100% silicone to mount the Plexiglas.

My problem is never having the right parts and ordering the wrong parts! Even though the 9 tooth off the Currie is not designed for a Unite motor I still think beating it and prying on it with two hammers to get it off the Currie motor may have bent the teeth. Also the wheel is bent and the crank sprocket I bolted on is probably not as perfect as a spoke sprocket would be properly installed.
Even so I am riding it about 12mph on the flat for now with no brakes. I have overcome all odds and succeeded to build it even though all those things were against me. The front hub motor kit was not difficult to install. I used electrical tape and zip ties. I even used wrenches and muffler clamps to replace torque arms. I would be rebuilding DC motors now if I could simply order the parts I need and watch high quality videos showing it done or watch someone doing it.

I used alligator clips and invented a unique way to run and charge LIPOs. It even survived a major bike accident and still works perfectly however I don’t! Every time I cough my ribs hurt! I have pain just sleeping on my right side. They are fractured. I charged the LIPOs when I got home though and the cash box with the ice cube tray and bolts are still in perfect working order.
I weighed the Diamond Back on bathroom scales. Just under 50lbs. The Schwinn was just under 65lbs. I can’t carry it down and up the stairs with the pain I have now in my ribs. I am done with 26" bikes period for a while. I need a first floor place to run them. I am only 5 foot 8" If I were over 6 feet tall it would be easier to lift a 26" bike high enough to get it up the stairs without the wheels getting caught up on the upper steps.

I have a lot of appointments for doctors. I have to go for blood work. An MRI for a possible tumor and city hall for my disability this week. I guess I will have to walk down and up hills because my bike barely runs and I need transportation NOW!!! Not when I can afford to order the right parts and when they show up. The world does not wait for me to finish an e bike project. It is not a simple hobby like most people on this forum. It is my only transportation!

I read what DA said about modifying the 9 tooth to work. I am more than just a little disenchanted that I can’t simply just order the part! I am confident enough at this point to say if I can get a link for parts I can build about anything. I will be glad when I move on to friction drives.

22 hours later.

I went to the doctor with the 20" bike about 4 miles round trip. The chain and motor sprocket made a lot of racket but stayed on for about 10 to 14mph. There was so much friction and the chain was tight enough it seemed to roll slowly down the small hills. I had to walk up a couple small hills on my way back but made it with no problem.

I put $50 in the bank on the way and stopped to Eric’s and ordered an 11 tooth double D sprocket, the mount kit and a 56 tooth spoke sprocket. The sprocket calculator on page 71 said 35mph at 3,000rpm with a 20" wheel. At 1,000W it is geared 5mph too high but at least I know the motor sprocket will work with no further issues. A cheap Chinese 48V controller about $15 to $20 and four cheap SLAs will finish the build.

I was going to try and run the Schwinn downtown and managed to lug it down stairs as the SLAs were charging from the doctor’s trip. It was a good thing I checked the voltage with the balancer. I only charged one side as it read about 4.06V per cell while the other side was about 3.84V per cell. I had to lug that Schwinn back upstairs for nothing and got stuck at the bend as I had to lift it with my left arm. It was a wrestling match to get it back upstairs.

9/29

That is the reason I will be ordering more SLAs. The LIPOs are good to have for long trips but I have to be home when charging them. It would be better if I had more LIPO packs as I could have them charged and ready ahead of time. I just hope those 8Ah SLAs two for $15 are still available. 32Ah of SLA for $30 is a deal you just can’t beat!

The three 12Ah SLAs have held up ok and still have life left. I think it was the small sprocket that was the reason I had to walk up a couple of hills. I got over 8 months out of them now but paid way too much. It was about $80 for the three. Half that price makes it a good deal. Pic 7 & 8 show the SLAs hooked to the three stage charger in parallel.

In my opinion charging in parallel is better than series. I desulfate them in parallel also and leave them hooked in parallel always except for when I run them. After a nasty short about six months ago I made the three clips on each side and stacked the SLAs to prevent it from happening again. For stacking them four high when I get more I am building a charging rack out of wood so they don’t fall over. Pic Battstack. I will also be ordering a second 1.8A three stage charger and desulfator.

It is raining today and I have a nasty cold so I will be charging the Lipos that need charging as I have an MRI Friday and have to be downtown. It it is too much distance and too many long hills for the 20" bike. It may be the last trip for the Schwinn until I move to a first floor place.

I want to race Doug when I get the new sprockets and brakes hooked up. If he beats me then the 3300W Ampflow will replace the Unite motor and I will race him again and post that. I may get two onboard cameras that mount on the front and back. Either way the name of the post then will be I AM NOT A NOOB AND AM GOING 50MPH ON AN E BIKE! Thanks. I would not have got this far without you guys. Post when you can.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

DA. and the rest of you guys! I know SLAs are not popular but please let me know if you can if any of these SLAs are better quality than the rest. The prices are dirt cheap but I am also looking for the highest quality for the cheapest price. I will be ordering soon tomorrow or Friday.

The 12Ah on the last link are 5 pounds each. 20lbs and $48 for 48Ah is not bad. I carry them up and down stairs separately from the bike anyway.

I posted several links above and and am adding a few more to them via the edit button. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

I noticed some of the listed batteries are AGM, and some are SLA.

If you don't take perfect care of them, AGM tends to last longer, as they sulfate less. The lower sulfation also means they're a bit more forgiving if you drain them flat, though manufacturers still don't recommend >80% capacity used very often. AGMs also tend to be able to deliver higher currents.

The down side is that they're more expensive and weight more for the same capacity.

Other than that, check the capacity against the weight. There's some tweaks here and there that can get you more power from less weight, but if someone's weight or dimensions seem too small for the capacity, chances are, they're lying or exaggerating about the capacity. One of the ways that they can squeeze a bit more capacity out of it without outright lying, is that they use a longer time period capacity. I think the two most common standards are the 10 hour rating, and the 20 hour rating. Just seen what time period the capacity rating is at. If they don't specify, you might want to avoid them.

 

[DrkAngel]

Your "link" is for 1 battery not the 2 in picture.

At similar budget price, all SLA are the same old AGM technology. SLA Gel are better but more expensive.
Look for seller with volume sales and positive reviews.
Volume sales help ensure "fresh" batteries.

 

[Sunder]

Sorry, you are right. I assumed the ones that didn't specify AGM to be just the plain old valve regulated seal lead acid batteries.

They all said AGM in the description though.

 

[DrkAngel]

You seem to be having enough trouble with chain popping off ... confirm that your #410 chain is running on #410 sprockets.
Possibly a #415 sprocket could account for your troubles.
Confirm that chain fits easily and deeply into sprockets.

The spoke mount sprockets are mostly #415.
Recommend #415 chain, typically rated as acceptable with #415 and #410 sprockets.

The addition of an idler-tension sprocket is the alternative solution.

 

[latecurtis]

The addition of an idler-tension sprocket is the alternative solution.

Not sure what that is but I will look it up. I had to leave the 20" bike at the shop. Plain and sons for the brake job. I will pick it up Tuesday. The Shop is 3.2 miles and the last mile is mostly up a slight hill. The three 12Ah SLAs failed miserably and were almost completely drained. I had to walk at least four or five blocks as I have no pedal chain. Once I got to the flat though I had enough power to ride it into the shop. The guy behind the counter was impressed with my set up.

It will be $73 to have the Odyssey brakes installed. He was not sure if the front would work behind the fork. The motor chain is in the way for the front. He was not the mechanic though. Also he would not take any money until Tuesday. However he let me plug the SLAs into a wall outlet for charging. He said something about unhooking it at night. I told him it was not necessary. I just hope I have a full charge for the trip back home. Those SLAs don't have much time left. I desulfated them every time I charged them. Not sure it does any good.

One of my parts is in. I think it is the 56 tooth sprocket. I will pick it up tomorrow at USPS. Not sure about the difference between 410 and 415 either. All I know is the chain is 1/2" by 1/8". the 11 tooth motor sprocket and 56 tooth spoke sprocket is for that chain. I will be very pissed off if it does not work for some stupid reason. What is half link chain.? Would it work better than 1/2" by 1/8" chain?

I may not have money for SLAs this month. However I will be ordering the $20 48V controller. I will run the LIPOs as the SLAs will only be good for two miles round trip on the flat especially with the damage done getting to the bike shop and the trip home.I will be giving them to the scrapper soon. I wont need a variable controller as I will be done with 36V.

I still want to raise the seat hook up a pedal chain and extend the handlebars. Tomorrow is a big day for the Schwinn and the LIPOs. Both sides are charged now. Did that last night. I got an MRI at 10:30AM and City Hall for disability at 3:30. I will be here downtown at the library tomorrow. I am ordering the 48V controller then.Right now I am going to Daves house to collect $20 he owes me and find out if he got his Mongoose fixed. I want my Magna back. I am thinking about putting the AmpFlow motor on that instead of a 20" bike. It has the Cantilever brakes and is a 26" bike. It may be more suited for 50mph than a 20" bike. Thanks.

LC. out.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/56T-Sprocket-Rear-for-80cc-Bike-Engine-Kit-Bicycle-Motor-2-Cycle-Motorized-66cc-/281803635815?hash=item419cce3c67&vxp=mtr

Checked my e mail. Will be picking it up tomorrow. Sure hope it is the right one. It says 415 chain. The 11 tooth motor sprocket was for 1/2" by 1/8" chain. I sure hope they are the same thing. I don't want to have to break out the sledge hammer

 

[DrkAngel]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/56T-Sprocket-Rear-for-80cc-Bike-Engine-Kit-Bicycle-Motor-2-Cycle-Motorized-66cc-/281803635815?hash=item419cce3c67&vxp=mtr

Checked my e mail. Will be picking it up tomorrow. Sure hope it is the right one. It says 415 chain. The 11 tooth motor sprocket was for 1/2" by 1/8" chain. I sure hope they are the same thing. I don't want to have to break out the sledge hammer

1/2" by 1/8" chain is #410 chain.
As I mentioned before ... multiple times, #415 chain and sprockets are wider (1/2" by 3/16")

#410 chain will not work properly with #415 sprockets.
At best, it will fit poorly and tend to slip off. (previously posted that info for you)

#415 chain will work with #415 and #410 sprockets.
#415 sprockets will usually need to be "thinned down" for proper use with #410 chain.

Honestly, I post up extremely brief, concise, relevant information that would take only a few seconds to read ...
Why don't you?

 

[Sunder]

However he let me plug the SLAs into a wall outlet for charging. He said something about unhooking it at night. I told him it was not necessary.

Are you sure you want to do that?

I can tell you I've had far more dangerous incidents with Lead Acid Batteries than I've had with LiPo.

There's a myth that SLAs are safe batteries. That's not true. The perception exists because most lead acids that people know of are the starter motors in cars, where you tend not to charge > 4 hours. Unless your alternator is REALLY faulty, that's not enough time to overcharge, boil the acid, generate hydrogen gas, and spark off an explosion.

If you used a 2A trickle charger and a 7-10Ah battery, you're probably safe. But I've had a 10A "intelligent" charger blow the casing off some old 7A UPS batteries, and a 20A "regulated" solar charger bulge a faulty 210Ah Deep cycle battery.

 

[DrkAngel]

SLA are recommended at a .08-.12C charge rate (~8-12hours), or 1A- 1.5A charger for 12Ah battery.
But ... oops!
Worn out 12Ah battery of 3Ah capacity could be charging at .5C 400% of recommended.
Worse, if charging 36V in series, the worst battery or some cells might be charging higher than 1C = 800% of maximum recommended.
Danger of extreme heat, swelling, Hydrogen/Oxygen gas production in weakest battery or cells ... maybe worse?

 

[latecurtis]

if charging 36V in series, the worst battery or some cells might be charging higher than 1C = 800% of maximum recommended.
Danger of extreme heat, swelling, Hydrogen/Oxygen gas production in weakest battery or cells ... maybe worse?

Exactly why I charge in parallel and I posted two pictures showing exactly how I do it. Also I use a 3 stage 12V SLA charger rated at 1.8A. That type of charger maintains the battery in stage three at a very low amperage but high voltage. There should be no way it can damage a battery. I have not used any cheap car chargers or SLA trickle chargers in awhile now. I only use the three stage. I even mentioned I would order a second one. Not sure about the desulfator though. I don't see where it helps much.

As far as the 56 tooth sprocket I paid $24 for I am not happy with it. I picked it up today. It is very heavy! :x Also it is for a 415 chain. The 11 tooth motor sprocket is for 1/2" by 1/8" chain. However the 1/2" by 1/8" chain on the bike now wont work anyway as it is for a 9 tooth motor and 40 tooth wheel sprocket. Now I will ask the question again. What is half link chain and will it work? If not 1/2" by 1/3" chain should work for the 1/2" by 1/8" 11 tooth motor sprocket and the 56T 415 wheel sprocket right? I hope so as I really don't want to break out the sledgehammer.

Please let me know. I left my lock and chain with the 20" bike so I had to walk 3 miles to get an MRI today. I am downtown at the library now. I have an appointment at 3 PM at City Hall for my disability. I will be collecting $20 Dave owes me and depositing it so I can order the 48V controller. Without that the bike will only go about 2 miles. I need to run the Lipos all the time now until I can afford some very cheap SLAs. The SLAs I got now are getting scrapped as soon as the 48V controller comes in. I just checked e bay I got nothing on 1/2" by 1/3" or half link chain? Please let me know. Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-Bike-Chain-1-2-x-3-16-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Chain-415H/151677308492?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33490%26meid%3D628bd47938164f07ba48382b00de0495%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121775563243

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dahon-Piccolo-Folding-Bicycle-medium-size-3-speed-Pickup-only/131597373038?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D32831%26meid%3Dfb854e6b48c14eba9b5a8bd2deb6b02e%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D151677308492

found a link 3/16" not 3/8" I read it wrong. It is 98 link. 4 feet long should work. Also the bike shop may have it. I will find out Tuesday when I go pick up the bike. I know Wall Mart dont have anything larger than 1/2" by 1/8". I just dont want to have to order another motor sprocket.

Check out the folding bike. I might get one when I get my SSI and put a 900W 24V motor on it and run single 1600mah LIPO packs. One on the bike and a spare or two in my back pack.

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html

Super light easy to carry around and good for about 28mph.
I wish it would tell me the weight on that. It looks a lot smaller than the 1,000W unite motor. It should be lighter.

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/48v-5000w-brushless-aircooled-motor-golden.html
Good motor choice for the Magna also. Monster scooter and golden motors rule. I wish Skalabala would post. I don't think that big brushless motor from China could beat that. What do you guys think. 60mph?

I tend to get a little off subject sorry.

#415 chain will work with #415 and #410 sprockets.

Thanks. I just saw that. I need a longer chain anyway so I should be good. I got to go to my appointment at City hall. I will be back to order the controller in a couple hours. Thanks for the good info on the chain.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I just got a message from Skalabala. He is having issues with the brushless motor. I was hoping if you guys know of anything you could help him out. I also got a message from LiveForPhysics. What is a 75-5 motor? He has some new videos of the DeathBike. The library is closing so I will post tomorrow. Please post when you can. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

Come on LC.
You know how to use google don't you? Half link is https://www.google.com/search?biw=4...17.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..0.22.2223.bzHe6rbX874
Half link gives you the chance to shorten or lengthen your chain in smaller amounts, can also be your master link.

I take that you were a good boy at your hearing or we wouldn't of heard from you after it. Are you really that bad of a guy as you say you are?
As for your cheap builds, you need to slow down and get what you need, even if it costs a few bucks more. buying crap or the wrong thing just because it's cheap doesn't make it usable.

You went to school when you were younger, slow down and use some of it now! It will come in handy, ask anyone here. Using you head not your fist or a big hammer is much cheaper and smatter.

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

~$120 to add brakes to a bike? ...!
A complete bike with brakes should cost much less!

 

[Sunder]

~$120 to add brakes to a bike? ...!
A complete bike with brakes should cost much less!

I expressed similar surorise earlier.

 

[latecurtis]

The brakes are $44 With the installation it comes to $73. I will also need the front 36 spoke wheel trued which is $20. I got the mount kit today. The 56T sprocket yesterday. It fits perfect over the hub. I was glad as it will be 100% centered not like the 40T pedal sprocket I bolted on. The downside is the 56T is very heavy. Aluminum or an alloy would have been about 1/4 the weight.

Also I don't have the money for both a 48V controller and the 1/2" by 3/16" chain. I will have the money for one or the other and need both. I may have to sell the Magna and I don't want to. I am not sure I can come up with the money any other way. I am thinking about reinstalling the motor with different wood brackets only with large L brackets for the small basket on the front for the cash box and the LIPOs as this will allow me to put a large basket on the back and there will be no wires running along the frame.

The handle bars need to be extended, the seat raised up and the pedal chain, derailleur, gears and shifter put on. There is still much work left to do and probably wont be done until next month sometime. I may have to run it like it is for awhile but with the new 11 tooth when it comes in. There should be a big improvement in the drivetrain then but the downside is it will be horribly over geared. At least it will have brakes though.

Another thing I am thinking is installing the controller in the front will require me to uninstall it and the basket whenever I need to pull the wheel to change the tire. My remedy for that is bullet connectors soldered on to the motor and battery wires coming from the controller and small easy to unplug connectors for the throttle. I don't bother with brake sensors or any of that other nonsense. I will still use alligator clips on the other end of the wires that hook up to the LIPO packs. I will need a new soldering iron though. I just hope it will be better than the last one I bought. I used it twice I think and it broke.

I have much to do on this build but do know now what needs to be done. I hope you guys can help Skalabala get his motor going. I am interested in his success. I wish he would post. I just read his message yesterday. I PM Thud but he has not posted in a long time. I know that he was very knowledgeable on brushless motors. I am not. I have never saw the inside of one however had three brushed motors apart counting the burnt Currie motor. If I were to guess I would say he has a defective motor but really don't know.

I have to go now but you guys can send him a message and see if he will post. I want him to have success. I know I will succeed in what I am doing it is just a matter of time and money now. His post "Brushless motor misfire" is in motor technology. Please check it out if you can. Thanks.



LC. out.