new eZip motor

[Sunder]

Recently my ol lady got a letter from the state of MO. It is regarding unsettled property. She will be getting a check for an undetermined amount of money. We could not get an amount over the phone. A paper has to be notarized and sent in then within 90 days a check will be issued.

After purchasing a car or truck if there is money left over after insurance I will be able to invest in further e bike projects.

You might want to consider that it's her money and all that. Yes, I know in marriage you share everything, and my wife probably spends more of the money I bring in than I do, but that's by consent. Of course you could suggest what she could spend it on, but I'd say the choice should be hers entirely.

I doubt I will be able to afford anything new. A used hybrid is probably a realistic goal at this point. I was told that only the manufacturer would be able to repair a hybrid and that upgrades are close to or impossible. If a vehicle is capable of running even at a limited speed say 40mph or less on electricity without gas and if distance is limited to say 15 or 20 miles without gas I don’t see why the electric parts could not be replaced or upgraded.

Okay, your knowledge is a little off. The current generation of non-plugin hybrid Prius has a 1.3kwh battery. Hell, some people here are running their BIKES on bigger batteries. You're not going to get 15-20 miles on a standard hybrid.

I doubt you'd get many second hand Prius plugin hybrids, since they're pretty new but they can go 10-15 miles on a single charge. Not quite what you were after, but a lot closer to a non-plugin hybrid.

Looking beyond the biggest manufacturer, I believe the Holden Volt (Called something else in the US?) had a much larger battery, and effectively was an electric vehicle with a generator on the back, rather than a driving ICE engine. I vaguely recall them going about 50km on a charge before the generator cut in, so there's your target right there. Not sure what the price of them are.

But the biggest bummer is that if you're buying anything older than about the 2012 generation of hybrids, a current ultra-efficient diesel or petrol motor would have lower emissions. That's right. A current generation Toyota Yarris has lower emissions than a 2nd generation Toyota Prius.

Really, early hybrids were a marketing gimmick, to get those wealthy with a conscience and little knowledge. The energy used in manufacturing the battery and the extraction of rare-earth elements for the electric motors had a 10 year pay off from memory. That is, you'd have to drive it for 10 years just to break even with a car of similar size and weight. Only then would you start saving the carbon dioxide emissions. Of course, since 10 years have passed, there are now cars more efficient than the 10 year old hybrid, so you would have had a lower environmental impact by buying the non-hybrid, scraping it, and buying a current generation ultra-low emission vehicle. It's crazy, isn't it?

That's all changing now with plugin hybrids and full electric vehicles. I'm planning on getting a fully electric once I move to the UK. Will be great to see what's available then, but I'm thinking a Tesla, or another company's fully electric family sedan with a bit of kick to it.

 

[DrkAngel]

On my 26" 2013 - EZip Trailz LS - Comfort Cruiser ...
I can decelerate from 20mph to stopped in about 20 feet.

Rapid deceleration shifts weight nearly 100% onto the front tire.
Rear brakes alone, no matter how good, even with my extremely low center of gravity, would require about 300% the stopping distance.
That relates to my 20 foot stopping distance plus a 4 lane intersection.

Setting aside your dismissal of the usefulness of front brakes ...
You seem to be greatly increasing your stopping problems!
Your method of drastically overburdening ...
a short wheelbase bike ...
compounded by your high center of gravity ...
makes any form of emergency stopping problematic!
Any effective rear braking will greatly shift weight forward making rear brakes increasingly ineffective!

High center of gravity with short wheelbase plus good-proper brakes could easily put your face into the asphalt!

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo fire Burns.

Is JB weld the best chemical weld there is? I may be able to make this worse. I won’t even correct that. It was a mistake as I meant work. Since it was marked up anyway I figured I could try to make it work somehow. As far as brakes go it really looks hopeless. I looked at it and was dumbfounded. I have no idea, not even a clue. To declare the Diamond Back to be a lost cause is an understatement at this point.

Nobody wants anything to do with brakes. I don’t have a car or a truck and would need to remove the motor and take it to a bike shop. I would then have to turn the front brakes around and reinstall the motor. I also need a 48V controller as the SLAs are totally shot now anyway.

I really can’t do much more until the first of the month. Even if I put the motor on the 26" frame with a 20" wheel in the back and got front brakes going the SLAs are shot. Without a 48V controller I can’t run the LIPOs. It simply is not worth bothering with anymore!

If I weld the sprocket and it works I can put a rubber band over the throttle, pick up the front wheel and when its spinning fast set it down and see how far it will go without tipping over. If I am lucky a city bus will run over it. I have wasted enough time and money on a piece of junk.

Please let me know about the liquid weld though. Is there something better than JB weld? If I can get the sprockets and chain perfect then maybe there is still some hope for it. Actually a $20 controller would be all it would need. That and brake lines of course but it looks like that is wishful thinking.

Thanks for posting guys. I did read your post Dan, Wish you were here. You could help me get the brake lines hooked up. There is no one here smart enough I guess.

Sincerely. LC. Out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Hook up brake lines?

Brakes and hand levers installed?

Just run cables from levers to brakes ...
Look at how it is done on your other bikes and copy.

 

[Sunder]

Yeah, it's pretty easy.

1. Hook up the end with the bulge on it to your levers.

2. Feed the other end through the plastic/silicone tubing down the same path as the old wires. If none, look for wire guides and make best sense of it.

3. Adjust brake arms until they're fairly close to wheel, then clamp other end of wire. Clip off excess except about 5cm.

4. Centre brakes

5. Use barrel adjuster to get a good feel on brakes. If you can't, loosen, but don't release wire, adjust and repeat step 5.

6. Or watch youtube video on how to do this. Much more intuitive.

 

[slowhands]

Changing brake cables is easy, but there are little bits you need to know. They say a picture is worth 1000 words, I say a video is worth a million words. So here's an easy guide to changing brake cables that has all the little bits explained. Learn how to do this and you won't be held back by the snooty bike shop. Enjoy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHAJ4DagD10

PS: You don't need to go out and buy fancy tools for this if you don't do it often. You just need a way to loosen the nut or bolt locking the end of the brake cable, a way to cut steel cable cleanly, and a way to crimp the cable end cap. Park Tools makes excellent but expensive tools just right for the job, but you can improvise.

The cable end will be clamped by either a 5mm cap screw or an 8mm round nut on older bikes. To loosen that you need either a 5mm allen wrench or 8mm socket driver, depending on whichever your bike has. A Vise Grip tool will work for cutting the steel cable and for crimping the cable end cap, and most people have one. Typical diagonal cutters will be wrecked cutting steel cable because they are aimed at cutting soft copper wire, not steel cable. The Vise Grip has the leverage and hard edge to cut cable, though it makes a mess of the cable end, you have to retwist it and fuss, but no biggie. Get 'er done. If you do a lot of brake cables, get the Park CN-10 because it is so good for the job, but otherwise, save your dinero.

The video shows what you need to do. To adjust brakes later, you need to have your wheels true, another video on youtube which you can find. I often find the brakes stick, because of old grease on them. If so, you may need to clean them and regrease, though first I try WD40 to free them up. On V brakes you have tension screws you may need to fuss with to get the brakes symmetric, easy as pie. You will feel empowered if you can do these basic repairs for yourself.

 

[DAND214]

See LC, there are others out there that believe in you.

Watch the video and learn. You can do it.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

Erics father was down for a visit. Over 30 years experience as a master mechanic in a garage. He rebuilt transmissions. The brake cables got hooked up. The cables are a little long but I saw Doug and he says he can cut them to fit better. I had to use zip ties. Both front and rear brakes are working but not perfect. They stop the bike though. Further adjusting will be done by Doug when he shortens the cables.

I needed to run the bike to my primary doctor yesterday as the LIPOs were charged for my trip to the hospital today for tests at the cardiology unit. The SLAs failed miserably on the way back yesterday but at least got me there. It was a little over two miles one way. I had a pedal chain but the axel was loose, the wheel was wobbling, and the chain was rubbing on the steel bracket supporting the rear basket. To make matters worse the motor sprocket was on backwards and the nut was loose.

Even with all that working against me I made it home but was pushing it about half the time. The SLAs totally died so I would turn off the controller switch and push it a block then turn it back on ,hit the throttle and pedal for a block or so and repeat. The thing I don't understand is the voltage of the SLAs were about 12.83V and the third was 12.76V. Why were they not putting out any amperage. They should have read 11. something right? It makes no sense.

I turned the sprocket around and tightened down the motor bolt and got the chain as tight as I could and tried it today when I got back from the hospital. The SLAs were fully charged and desulfated overnight at 36V. I put them back on the charger awhile I was gone. On a fresh charge I got the bike to maybe 15mph. The chain was moving a lot but did not come off. I may have to go back to the steel brackets. I cant seem to get the chain tight enough with the wood brackets for some reason.

I was thinking about putting the motor on the back of that 26" bike and putting a 26" quick release wheel on the front with front brakes like DA suggested. The thing is though there is no pedal crank on that 26" Road master frame. At least I got the rear wheel of the Dimond Back so I can pedal now. I guess I will put the steel brackets back on and get the chain really tight and try it again tomorrow.

The hard drive and mother board went in the old PC at home. I am trying to get another one going but need a video card. There will be no pics or videos for awhile. I wanted to test the brakes in that parking lot and post it but will have to wait. It could be awhile as I am totally broke until the first of November. I still plan on getting another 11 tooth motor sprocket. That is in case the JB weld does not hold and also for the next build which will be the 26" Road master frame with a 20" wheel on the back and a 26" on the front. I may put 20" forks on the front instead though.

I will need a 48V controller next month also. I wanted to get four of those cheap 8Ah SLAs for $30 but they are gone. When I click on the link something different comes up. I want two sets of batteries, one for each bike but doubt I can afford to order new LIPO packs any time soon. Thanks for posting guys and yes I did watch the brake cables being hooked up. I even rebuilt the front caliper so it would work. To my amazement Erics father agreed with Eric saying front brakes are dangerous and could flip the bike.

Not only was he a Master mechanic in a garage but he owns a Harley and goes to the events regularly. I still hooked the front brakes up anyway though and they work about as well as the rear. I did it because I believe what you guys are saying. I think it has to do with how hard they grab.

If they are adjusted so the front grabs really hard and the rear does not then it can flip. Both sets of brakes grab or work but not to the point of flipping over. They simply stop the bike and if I apply both at the same time it works better. Thanks for posting. Hopefully I can get a PC running for pics and a couple of small Vids of the brakes in action finally. Also I hope to get the chain on tighter. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Better re-read my recommendations on SLA battery care!
Battery University articles are more expansive.
I have mentioned repeatedly that it sounds like you are intentionally trying to destroy your batteries.
Multiple times I have tried to explain to you why a battery will take a full voltage charge yet, have very little capacity.
Additionally, a de-sulfator can be "modestly to moderately effective" in rejuvenating a slightly sulfated battery.

Diagnose your batteries
Measure voltages before recharging.

 

[Sunder]

You'd need some serious braking power in order to flip a bike with such an upright position as yours. More likely, you'll just lock up the brakes and slide. If you're concerned, maybe just move the batteries further back?

Agree with DA about the battery treatment. Repeatedly draining the battery after it's hit cut off voltage will severely shorten their life.

I think you need to let go of your preconceptions that SLAs are safe, and LiPos are dangerous. Both have their risks, but both are probably far lower than you are thinking. A few precautions like charging while you're within sight in a fireproof container, and I'd say LiPos are probably as safe as you're going to get. Unless you're willing to go NiCd.

 

[DAND214]

You'd need some serious braking power in order to flip a bike with such an upright position as yours. More likely, you'll just lock up the brakes and slide. If you're concerned, maybe just move the batteries further back?

Agree with DA about the battery treatment. Repeatedly draining the battery after it's hit cut off voltage will severely shorten their life.

I think you need to let go of your preconceptions that SLAs are safe, and LiPos are dangerous. Both have their risks, but both are probably far lower than you are thinking. A few precautions like charging while you're within sight in a fireproof container, and I'd say LiPos are probably as safe as you're going to get. Unless you're willing to go NiCd.

I agree with both of you.
But there are no totally safe batteries. Any type can burn if handled improperly. NiCd are not safe either. If your charger sticks on you can have a fire with them too.
As I said nothing is totally safe.

Dan

 

[slowhands]

why is this thread 9 pages long?

Only 9? That was so long ago, we're aiming for 1000 pages. 88 and counting....

 

[DAND214]

why is this thread 9 pages long?

Only 9? That was so long ago, we're aiming for 1000 pages. 88 and counting....

Come back in a month or so and see what it's up to.
If he got some more support it could of been either done or 200+ pages

Dan

 

[slowhands]

I was considering using a scooter motor from a Schwinn 1000w, hacking it to make a mid drive using only salvage parts from other scooters. Stay with 25 chain and sprockets as much as possible. Why? A challenge. I think it has the strength for modest power. It would be compact and scooter parts are so easy to find.

But I'm wondering about reliability of brushed motors now. I suspect the original failures were due to over-stressing the motor -- a 24v motor at 36v going up hills seems unwise.

It got bumped today anyway. I got an ebike with dead battery for peanuts, so now I'm building a new battery for a new project. I was thinking of upping the battery voltage from 36 to 48, then recalled this thread. Not gonna happen to this motor, shucks. Anyway, new challenge.

 

[DrkAngel]

Motor destruction, exampled here, is typically from gearing high then running full throttle at slow inefficient speed up hills.
Overvolting for more speed and power can be reliable and durable.
E.G. - I replaced 24V 35A controller with lower amperage 36V 25A controller and have run for 4000+ miles, mostly in snowy weather.
Upped from 15mph to ~22mph,
limiting the amps limited the low speed inefficiency-damage,
geared lower and built 33.3V battery for this Winter.

Low amp controller is essential for those incapable of using throttle restraint!

 

[latecurtis]

Downtown. Back from heart doctor. There is no avoiding surgery. I was born with two valves instead of three. That's why I have an aneurism. They go hand in hand the doc said. I will be getting a metal valve. One more test left. More BP medicine. I finally got the 20" Diamond Back to full throttle last night.Close to 20mph I guess. I am having issues lining up the sprockets perfect though. I will work on it more today. Doug took it for a spin last night. He is going to shorten up the brake cables and fine tune the brakes.

As to the SLAs it really don't matter about them as they are shot. No I never did take them very far since I had them. Three mile round trips were the norm and anything past that I used the Schwinn and the LIPOs. Only when it was at the bike shop six weeks ago were they run low and it was not my fault as they unplugged the charger. I also have been using the three stage 1.8A charger and charging them all in parallel then desulfating them. It is simply their time. There is not much more I could have done to extend their life.

It is ok though as they are good for testing out e bikes at 36V. They will run up to about a mile maybe a little less at full throttle. Anything after that , Good Luck. I may get two miles at about 5 to 10mph. It is time to replace them with new or LIPOs if I can afford. I will be able to run the bike with the LIPOs I have when I get a 48V controller. I got a PC running at home and will be reinstalling my programs so I should have a video of the 20" bike going soon with the brakes. I have an appointment across the street at City hall and need to get home to take my BP pills and pick up a prescription. I will take the 20" bike for that as it is two miles or less. That is the limit on the SLAs. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

There is not much more I could have done to extend their life.

So, someone unplugged them after it was 60% recharged once, and it's their fault. Despite running it past the maximum depth of discharge, resting them and trying to discharge them again, there was "not much more" you could have done?

I know you're not going to listen, so I don't know why I'm wasting my breath... Maybe I'm hoping you read this drunk and it somehow subconsciously gets into your head. Maybe one snowflake can start an avalanche... But here goes. There are two kinds of people in this life: Victims, and Survivors. Life throws shit at all of us. Victims say "It's unfair. It's not my fault. Someone has to pay". Survivors say "This part is their fault, this part was my fault, and this is what I can do better next time".

A person gets robbed walking home. A victim is afraid to go out again. By logic, if it's not their fault, and "There is not much more I could have done", then there is nothing they can do prevent a repeat of the undesired experience, except avoid the same circumstances. They miss work, miss contact with friends. A survivor changes his route to a safer one. Learns a bit of basic self defence, learns not to walk around distracted by his brand spanking new iPhone while taking a shortcut through the Bronx. A survivor gets on with life, smarter and tougher. A victim just gets angry and wants to take it out on someone else, where they know they have more power. Maybe they even punch bus drivers, or threaten bike store mechanics. Who knows.

 

[DAND214]

There is not much more I could have done to extend their life.

So, someone unplugged them after it was 60% recharged once, and it's their fault. Despite running it past the maximum depth of discharge, resting them and trying to discharge them again, there was "not much more" you could have done?

I know you're not going to listen, so I don't know why I'm wasting my breath... Maybe I'm hoping you read this drunk and it somehow subconsciously gets into your head. Maybe one snowflake can start an avalanche... But here goes. There are two kinds of people in this life: Victims, and Survivors. Life throws shit at all of us. Victims say "It's unfair. It's not my fault. Someone has to pay". Survivors say "This part is their fault, this part was my fault, and this is what I can do better next time".

A person gets robbed walking home. A victim is afraid to go out again. By logic, if it's not their fault, and "There is not much more I could have done", then there is nothing they can do prevent a repeat of the undesired experience, except avoid the same circumstances. They miss work, miss contact with friends. A survivor changes his route to a safer one. Learns a bit of basic self defence, learns not to walk around distracted by his brand spanking new iPhone while taking a shortcut through the Bronx. A survivor gets on with life, smarter and tougher. A victim just gets angry and wants to take it out on someone else, where they know they have more power. Maybe they even punch bus drivers, or threaten bike store mechanics. Who knows.

Sunder, you must of read what I said but worded it much better.
He reads them but doesn't reason them.

Lc, here is a simple question. If DOUG can shorten and adjust the brakes, WHY DIDN"T HE PUT THEM ON?

As for the SLA batteries, save your money kill the LIPOs. A 8ah battery is a waste of money when you are talking SLA. You get half of rated and you don't want to run them flat, which you have many times. Just because they are still powering the bike at 2mph doesn't mean that they are not discharged below being DAED.

LC read these posts as help from friends not your enemies. You need to slow down with what you have and take what you can afford. Slow down and do it right and it will cost less in the long run. Might cost more at first but less if you keep doing it wrong.

We all hope your DR knows what they are doing too, since you don't get too many second chances with any surgery. I still can't understand how you have lived this long with your temper and only half a heart.

I also hope you read this as I meant it. As Sunder said, learn to be a survivor not a victim as you have seen to act as one.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 1

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. " Bad Moon on the Rise"? CCR.

Not much hope left for anything! I got a letter from public assistance and they want to cut me off totally starting NOV. No rent, no food stamps and no more medical because I did not recertify. I had a doctor’s appointment that day. Also the ol lady failed to contact social security and she may not get a check either. They want her to file survivor’s benefits from a dead husband over 20 years ago. She is 72 and not mentally capable of doing much of anything, especially searching for marriage and death certificates from a time when there were not even reliable computers.

My heart doc faxed PA a letter stating that the stress of being homeless could cause my valve to fail and certain death would occur. Also the disability guy at city hall faxed a letter as he called PA. Ahead of time stating I had a medical appointment. This was not supposed to happen! Someone made a mistake! I have had eight doctors’ appointments for three different doctors and three appointments at city hall plus an appeal hearing for SSI within the last three weeks.

The landlady got a letter also stating she would no longer receive money from PA. If I don’t get my SSI and am denied I plan on going back to state prison for at least 15 years. I will take out someone in authority. I won’t hurt an innocent person. It will be someone responsible for me being without money to survive. Someone who works for the system. An example needs to be set. I worked about 32 years on the books according to SSA when I first applied. And about five years off the books.

I worked for my father’s firewood business when I was 13 years old. I got my working papers at 16 and worked for 3.35 per hour. Off the books counts too as illegal immigrants get to stay because they say they help out the economy. They are off the books. When I got out of prison in 93 I worked as a Lumper unloading trucks on the docks off the books for about three years.
Besides that I paid into the system for over 30 years and have to fight the system just to survive now and immigrants can come over from Pakistan and are handed a convenient store to run. Mexicans can sneak over the border and get PA or work off the books and get citizenship.

On the way back from the hospital and city hall today the LIPOs slowed way down for the first time since I had them. They were 3.96 to 3.97V when I started. The night before I charged them on the SKYcharger for about 110min each side at 3A. The alarm goes off and it says CAPA. I usually unplug the charger and plug it back in and set the charger to 1.5A and after another 80min I get about 4.06V. However it was three AM and I needed to be at the cardiac clinic at 1PM so that is why they were only 3.96V starting out.

I remember what DA said about not running them below 3.4V and getting an alarm but I go by the distance traveled. I always know within a half a mile how far I travel. The hospital is approx. 2.5 miles mostly flat. Downtown from there approx. 2 miles but mostly downhill. Back home from City hall and the Library which is across the street is 1.3 miles but mostly uphill but not steep. They slowed way down on the last half mile or so but I did make an effort to pedal.

Under six miles total. Starting voltage was 3.96V on average. I have not charged them but plan on it tomorrow after I post this. Voltages are 3.68 to 3.71V on the left side. The right side are 3.67 to 3.70V. What I am thinking is that the LIPOs are getting close to the end of their life. To make matters worse when I got home there was no food. The ol lady is anorexic also. Lucky if she goes 110 pounds. I took the 20" bike and the SLAs to the grocery store about 1.4 miles and back with the basket on the front.

It made it there ok but not even close coming back. I tried to pedal but the back chain came off. I got it back on a couple times but it was hopeless. Besides very little power the motor sprocket began making a horrible grinding sound. The bolt must have come loose or something. I ended up pushing it most of the way plus two small hills. I pushed it awhile then used the throttle and my feet for a while then pushed again.

Please note I had a basket full of groceries so I was pushing about 100 pounds with a right knee that requires surgery, a back which needs a new disk and a heart valve which could burst at any time. When I got home I took the groceries out of the basket and tipped it over on the sidewalk. I just left it there hoping someone would steal it. I took my BP medicine which I did not take all day because I forgot as I was late for my appointment and was running around all day.

I finally went down and brought everything up stairs. The SLAs are charging and the bike sits in the closet minus a back wheel. One of the threads on the axel was stripped. I reinstalled the chain and made sure the motor sprocket lined up. I will test it again tomorrow with a new rear wheel. The SLAs are now limited to Erics house. About half the distance to the grocery store with no hills.
If I can get new SLAs or LIPOs plus a new motor sprocket and 48V controller there is still hope. However I don’t even know if I will be getting the rent paid next month let alone money for that. Like I have said many times before, It will be a miracle if I don’t kill someone! It will even be a bigger miracle if my heart valve don’t blow out in the process or before I can do anything like that due to my bad temper and the daily stress I have to deal with.

My lesson learned is if I can ever afford it, buy a gas powered car!. There is no substitute for a roof to keep you dry and a heater to keep you warm in the winter time. Also with an electric car you need a charging station and a fortune to buy one. All electric powered vehicles run off of expensive inefficient batteries which will take many years to develop to a point where they will compare to the energy gas produces.

Eric has been telling me this for years now ever since I bought the Currie. However I have also been telling him I can’t afford a car right now. Even when I was working washing dishes for 10 years there was not enough money to keep a vehicle around for long. They would last for a while but then break down and it would be a choice of paying a garage $600 or $800 for repairs or the rent and car insurance. I would get rid of the car as why pay insurance if it don’t run. There is no sense in paying for a dead horse.

Living paycheck to paycheck does not include paying a mechanic $70 or $80 an hour for auto repairs when only making $7 or $8 an hour on a job. Also I had to get rid of at least half a dozen vehicles that ran perfect. Started up every day and ran very reliable. That was because of inspection!. Try to take an old vehicle with over 100K miles and get a simple $30 inspection. They wanted about $800 on average for brake work or ball joints, tie rods or other shit.

That is the real reason I ride around on e bikes. Cars are for wealthy people and electric cars for filthy rich people. I ride e bikes. I guess that is why I went down and picked the 20" bike up and brought it back upstairs. I was going to just leave it there.

It is also why I want to tear someone’s head off and shit down their neck when a car rides by me and blows the horn or yells get the hell out of the road. I used to be the guy back in the 90s riding around in a big CADDY with tinted windows and an AK 47 in the trunk pumping big e small or Tupac on a killer system!

I made a lot of money Lumping those trucks back then. I had my health and opportunity and was fresh out of the joint benching close to 400 pounds. I could unload two 48 foot trailers about 80 pallets of paper towels stacked six block four high 24 - 60 pound boxes each pallet in about four hours and walk out with at least $160 in my pocket on a bad day.

The receivers with their fork trucks did not even come close to keeping up. I was pushing four and sometimes five pallets with my legs for room to lay another pallet down. Lumper services came into effect around 2000 and independent lumpers who averaged $22 an hour were supposed to work for companies with insurance and a license for $8 an hour. Hell no!!! That was hard ball busting work! I loved it but was not stupid enough to work that hard for peanuts.

I ended up washing dishes for $7 an hour after that for 10 years to be talked down to, ridiculed and used for a scapegoat on an almost daily basis just to keep a job and pay my bills. Now I am just an old guy trying to make it home from the doctor or the grocery store on an e bike hoping my batteries won’t die. That is why I am stressed and talk stupid a lot. I got good reasons to be pissed off at the world. Please post if you can.

I am currently researching my heart valve condition. It looks like I will never see the inside of the gym again. I can walk though if my knee don't give out. I don't see any way SSA can deny my appeal. It was a condition I was born with. The diagram is what the doc drew yesterday. I got the picture off the internet.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Not sure what you want us to post, mate. Do you want sympathy, or do you want help?

You know the greatest thing about being a victim? Everyone else is responsible. You said you weren't going to take out anyone innocent, only those responsible. Great. As a victim, everyone else is responsible except you. Call it a target rich environment.

You didn't recertify? You're not responsible.
You had a doctor's appointment that day - maybe he's responsible
Your case worker didn't chase you up - maybe he's responsible
Your old lady didn't do her paperwork - maybe she's responsible
If you had an eBike that was fast and reliable, you could have done both appointments - maybe we're responsible.

Where does it stop?

 

[DAND214]

I'm afraid to send you more batteries. Since I was the one that gave them to you.
That makes me responsible?
Fifst you need to charge your packs fully before trying to stretch them further than they can handle. The hell with 4.1v per cell. Charge them to the max 4.2 and don't expect much more out of them than at 4.1v. Your never gonna get any extra cycles if you run them flat. All it takes is ONE dead cell and the pack is trash. You said that they were still at 3.6+-. If so they weren't dead but a little low. So charge the packs fully before you use them and never think that the tank is full if you don't have a meter to tell. ALARMS are what you need, since you have ridden every battery till it stopped or crawled. They don't like that some just die and some can blow up if recharged.
Sunder sent the motor.
Does that make him responsible?
I/we never know which way you are coming or going from post to post.
I know how you feel about living paycheck to next one. I know what\s it like to be disabled and can't work.
And now I read you want to go back to prison, Prison must be pretty good, IS IT?

ANY COMMENTS LC?

Dan
I think you need to change you clock. Not CLEAN it change it. Getting up late causes you to be late for most everything. You just get to the library before it closes and can't read or search what you really need to.

 

[Skalabala]

Sheesh bud sorry to hear about your heart I myself was born with defect and are on blood pressure meds since 18 years of age.
Come live in South Africa bud $7 is like R95 that is a lot of money! That gives you a nice 500G rump at a nice restaurant
Washing dishes won't pay $7 here unfortunately Will pay around $7 for the day if you work 10 hours

 

[Sunder]

Sheesh bud sorry to hear about your heart I myself was born with defect and are on blood pressure meds since 18 years of age.
Come live in South Africa bud $7 is like R95 that is a lot of money! That gives you a nice 500G rump at a nice restaurant
Washing dishes won't pay $7 here unfortunately Will pay around $7 for the day if you work 10 hours

Damn, I have to come visit... Our minimum wage here is $21/h. The last 4 years, we've been sitting over $1AUD=$1USD. Since the start of this year, we're down to 72c since China no longer wants our iron ore, but that's likely to change again, as they're demanding more of our food.

A ungraded 500g rump steak in a cheap restaurant here would set you back $25-30. An export grade MSA 9+ rump steak would set you back $70-80. Good quality meat here is so expensive, I've got an entire 107 rib eye aging in a spare fridge, because it's a quarter of the price to age it yourself. ($35/kg, meaning about $17 per steak).

 

[DrkAngel]

You keep trying to run before you can walk!

eBike project wise ... you keep dreaming and attempting what you want at the expense of neglecting what you need!
You "need" basic reliable transportation with some cargo capability.
Gearing for greater speed degrades-damages battery life, motor and drivetrain durability, hill climbing ability ... everything you need ...
sacrificing everything you need for brief moments of what you want?
Geared too high at 36V? ... order the $12 Yi-Yun 24V brush controller and "get real", should give you reasonable speed, good range and much better battery life
Can even run Lipo @ 22.2V!

Battery Care

1. Charging fully (4.20V) is much less damaging than discharging too deeply (<3.70V apparently - based on your stats) - IMRIO
If you need to unplug and replug charger to finish charging ...
You never read the directions and changed the default CAPAcity setting from 5000mAh or
the timer setting from the default 120min.
2. Discharging deeply can-will greatly and permanently degrade or destroy most any type battery
(SLA "empty" is typically rated at ~10.5V and Lipo ~3.60V)
3. Discharge rate - Discharging at higher discharge rates greatly reduces battery life
(You skimp for every 1-2lb of smaller SLA battery weight, likely cutting battery range and life in half to save, what figures to be, ~1-2% of operational (eBike plus rider + load) weight! ... ??? )
Chart demonstrates low output rate Lipo cells, but the concept is applicable to SLA and, at greater discharge rates, to RC Lipo

Deterioration to 80% of original capacity:
3C produces < 50 cycles
2C produces ~ 250 cycles
1C produces ~ 500 cycles
High C rate discharges (and charges) are progressively damaging and as actual capacity declines, deterioration accelerates rapidly!

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 10/24 Battery talk./next project.

I did read the posts today when I posted at the library. I enjoy this time communicating and don’t mind if everyone does not agree with me. I don’t agree with everyone else either but try to look at things from a different point of view. This takes my mind off my serious medical problems and is therapeutic for me. Hopefully this post will clear up some misconceptions you guys may have. Please read it thoroughly before posting and then let me know if I am wrong.

I did restrain myself at the bike shop. I basically saw knockout victim written across his forehead. If it were 20 years ago I probably would have went to jail for pounding the guy’s head in when he said we are not a charging station. He was obviously prejudiced against e bikes. I had no back chain and was three miles from home with no way to get the bike back as I did not have my phone and could not call anyone with a truck. Also it was getting dark and that’s how I got hurt with the Schwinn because I could not see so I just wanted to get home. My wellbeing was more important than that of the SLAs.

I dont see any sense in sticking up for those SLAs either. It is the second pair of SLAs I bought but this time I was not a battery abuser. At least not until then.

The two 10Ah SLAs that came with the Currie and the three 22Ah SLAs I bought when upgrading the Currie were of better quality then the three 12Ah SLAs I currently own. The reason I am claiming this is the original owner’s manual that came with the Currie said to fully charge then fully discharge the SLAs three times. It was to break them in.

I did and to the point where they did not move the bike at all. I even put the bike up against a wall and held down the throttle for several minutes until there was no movement or signs of energy. DA informed me that this was very destructive to the SLAs. The new SLAs I currently own were never treated like that. I just charged and ran them normally from the start.

The only mistake I made was charging each one of them two or three times with the 400W mega charger at 4A when I first had them. Even though it was set at 4A the mega charger drops down the charging amps gradually during charging until it reaches 0A when fully charged. I doubt it did too much damage to them. That is the way LIPo chargers are designed. It does the same thing with LIPOs. After DA said 1.5A was the limit for 12Ah I never did that again.

I even bought a three stage SLA charger and have been charging in parallel all three SLAs since that time and running the desulfator almost after every charge and topping off the charge before running them to make sure they were fully charged. I was told to get a 36V charger but the fact that I got two SLAs in one package and the third came in later and the voltage was off on the third by about .03V before, and after charging I decided against it.

Series charging may cause overcharging and possible damage or a hazard if one or more of the batteries are at a different state. Parallel charging at 12Vprevents any single SLA from being overcharged and 36Ah at 1.8A from the three stage takes about 6 to 8 hours and was told it is better for the SLAs. Not only that but I never went over about three or 4 miles tops round trip with them.

However these SLAs did not last longer than the three 22Ah or the two 10Ah SLAs that came with the Currie and at this point it don’t really matter how I treat them. They are shot anyway! If they won’t go at least three miles they are worth nothing to me except for testing so yes I am abusing them now but did not when I got them and for most of their useful life span.

They actually begin slowing down a few weeks before the bike shop deal just going downtown and back which is a total of about 3 miles. I ran the Schwinn with them sometimes instead of using the LIPOs as I figured I would save the LIPOs for longer trips. It just made sense to me and it was the right move as the LIPOs are slowing down also now. They would not have lasted as long as they did if I did not run the SLAs for short trips.

The fact is the 12Ah SLAs were basically junk to begin with. You guys can dispute that all you want but I know I am right. I paid about $80 for the three. At that price I should have got 18 months to 2 years out of them. It has been less than a year I think. As far as the four 8Ah SLAs that were $30 but no longer available I would not care if I only got four to six months out of them at that price as long as they go three miles round trip because it is about as far as I go anyway with SLAs.

As far as the Lipos go I can’t complain. I got them for free. However I never abused them either. When they slowed down a little the other day I pedaled to help out as the Schwinn has a pedal gear. Also they are inside a LIPO bag and a metal cash box. They are about as safe as they can get and as I explained on my last post all cells were above 3.65V. I bet at 3.5V they would barley run at all so there was no sense in wasting money on a LIPO alarm. I was right about that also. They would be totally dead long before reaching 3.4V.

Also I balance charge them every time. I don’t know how to set the charger so it won’t stop after 110min when it says CAPA. I usually unplug it and plug it back in and lower the amps from 3 to 1.5 and charge about 80min more when it says full or 0A. That is three hours each side minimum.

I forgot to do both sides a couple weeks ago but I always check voltage before and after a trip to keep track as I don’t use alarms. I caught it but had to walk about 5 miles that day. After fully charging with the LILO feature until full, voltage is about 4.06 to 4.08V. The LIPO feature is about 4.16 to 4.18V.

I thought about building cables and charging both sides in parallel but when I combined the packs I combined the packs that were taped together for the right side and the other two for the left side. The voltage is slightly different after running them. they can’t all be charged together in parallel. That is why it takes six or 7 hours to charge both packs as I have to be home to do it. That is a big issue with all the running around I have had to do.

I don’t consider myself a battery expert like DA and other experienced ES members however I am no longer a NOOB either. I use my mustimeter to check voltages on the SLAs and my balancer for the LIPOs before and after using and charging them. I will never pay $80 for SLAs again either. I will walk first! $50 for four 10Ah is as high as I will go. Sooner or later I will need to order new LIPOs also. I just need a really good deal as money is always an issue with me.

Another thing I have been thinking is if I get money I don’t plan on a fast bike for my next build. The heart doctor said I can’t be lifting anything heavy at all. The Schwinn is 65 pounds with the front hub motor. The LIPOs in the cash box are separate. I weighed it without them in the back. I put the steel brackets back on the Diamond Back so that is about 55 pounds now without the SLAs. I carry the batteries separately up and down the stairs.

The Unite motor is almost as heavy as the hub motor. Add that heavy 56 tooth wheel sprocket and the heavy duty chain and it is about the same as the hub motor. I need to build an e bike that is less than 40 pounds with the motor. As long as it will go 20mph I am good. Also it must go up hills as I can’t pedal that good with a right knee that needs surgery and a bad heart.

The 26" aluminum Road master frame is very light and with 20" wheels should be perfect. I think I can cut the brake mounts on the front with a hack saw and move them down to accommodate the 20" wheel by drilling small holes thru the fork and mounting them with small L brackets. I may be able to do something similar for the rear brakes also.

I need a light motor that will run at 24V. I think a single 1600mah 6s LIPO brick should be good for up to 4 miles round trip. For anything more than that I would need a second one and could switch them for the trip back home. Monster Scooters has a 24V 900W motor kit with the controller and throttle for $199. The motor looks about half the size as the 1,000W Unite motor I have now. However I need to know exactly how much it weighs. Also I need to go back to the #25 chain and sprockets because of the weight factor.

The Currie ran for years with it and the same bike shop that I took the Diamond Back to put it on for me back then. Go figure. I just can’t do the pin on the chain and always lose the little clip on the master link because it is so small. Also the sprockets need to be perfectly lined up or the chain pops off. I can put a chain on 1/2" by 1/8" or 3/16" by myself without a master link. The pin is large enough for me to work with and I have the chain splitter. I need to build a lighter bike and will need help to make it happen or I need to move to a first floor apartment due to my ongoing health issues.

A small geared hub motor would be ideal but cost at least $200. I also need new batteries so my budget is about $50 to $60 for a motor kit and $50 to $60 for batteries. So $120 total. Also I am wondering if I did get $200 what the weight difference would be between a geared hub motor and the 900W motor in that $199 Monster scooter kit. I think the geared hub motor would be good for 20mph tops and the 900W motor would go about 27mph easily.

Also if I live long enough and get my Social security I am thinking about leaving NY State. I want to live where e bikes are legal by state law. Somewhere where I may be able to open a bike shop specializing in e bikes. I am not sure where I would go but am keeping my options open. I don’t know if social security is transferable out of the USA but am really sick and tired of how the US is being run. The government is horrible. They treat illegal immigrants better than older US citizens or people who are disabled like myself. That is totally unacceptable!!

I was interested in Australia but think Sunder said something about going to the UK. I would want to know someone wherever I decide to go. The UK may be an option. I am not sure but know that NY really sucks! I really want to get out of the rat race going on here.

I know this post keeps going on forever but as long as my heart is still beating I will be building electric bicycles. I really don’t have much better to do and I love talking to you guys so keep posting when you can. I hope I cleared things up with this post. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

LC. out.