new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Skalabala. Did you get that motor going? How many kilowatt's is it? Will it beat the 3300W Amp Flow brushed motor? Thanks everyone for your concern and for posting. It looks like my post is perfect timing for everything I just read. I did it last night on my flash drive. Last night I tried the 20" Diamond Back and the chain came off, the throttle stuck and the tire I put on the back had I huge bulge in it and went thump d thump. The motor chain and sprockets seemed to work ok though but with everything else going on I could not tell.

I put on a different tire and figured out how to tighten the back pedal chain with a hammer handle for leverage between the back frame and tire instead of hanging it upside down. Also I hooked up a kill switch right next to the throttle with one of the throttle wires and am going to test it out now before dark. I went to Social services and got an appointment tomorrow at 1Pm to recertify. I should be good with that then. It is good to see everyone posting. I am going to e bay and see if there are any cheap SLAs for when I get money on the first of NOV. Thanks.

LC. out

 

[ronnieb52]

If I were you I'd take that money on the first and buy a bus pass.

 

[slacker]

with your health issues i agree about the bus pass,good luck.

 

[Sunder]

I want to live where e bikes are legal by state law. Somewhere where I may be able to open a bike shop specializing in e bikes. I am not sure where I would go but am keeping my options open.

If that's your goal, good on you. But I think you need to learn to work on bikes and electric bikes a fair bit more before you'll be ready for that. If you can't fit your own brakes now, what happens when you get your first kit and you need to assemble the brake?

The government is horrible. They treat illegal immigrants better than older US citizens or people who are disabled like myself. That is totally unacceptable!!

That's pretty much true for any Western country. I'm all for humanitarian support, and a controlled asylum program, but there really seem to be a lot of left of centre people with some very loud voices in Australia at least, that want to give a higher standard of living to refugees than to pensioners and the homeless. I guess they argue that those who grew up in this lucky country should be rich. If they're not, they must have squandered their wealth.

Don't know why, but when DA said that you keep trying to build what you want, before you've got what you need right, I got the image of Dennis from Run Fatboy Run. 3 weeks before a marathon, he decides he's going to run it without any training.

You have all these big dreams. Great. I really mean that. But please be realistic about what you need to achieve to reach your end goal. You can't go from needing help to build your own bike, to running an electric bike shop. Not unless you're really rich and can afford to hire a bike mechanic to work for you.

 

[slowhands]

Skalabala. Did you get that motor going? How many kilowatt's is it? Will it beat the 3300W Amp Flow brushed motor? Thanks everyone for your concern and for posting. It looks like my post is perfect timing for everything I just read. I did it last night on my flash drive. Last night I tried the 20" Diamond Back and the chain came off, the throttle stuck and the tire I put on the back had I huge bulge in it and went thump d thump. The motor chain and sprockets seemed to work ok though but with everything else going on I could not tell.

I put on a different tire and figured out how to tighten the back pedal chain with a hammer handle for leverage between the back frame and tire instead of hanging it upside down. Also I hooked up a kill switch right next to the throttle with one of the throttle wires and am going to test it out now before dark. I went to Social services and got an appointment tomorrow at 1Pm to recertify. I should be good with that then. It is good to see everyone posting. I am going to e bay and see if there are any cheap SLAs for when I get money on the first of NOV. Thanks.

LC. out

Holy Calamity, Batman! The throttle stuck, the chain came off and the tire bulged. One failure on top of another. It almost sounds like a curse, from some bike store repairman no doubt. All I can say is to read and follow the good advice given on this board. Take it easy and slow, it will get done right. I hope you watched your friend do the brake install, and could do it yourself from now on. Practice makes perfect.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 10/26 to 10/28

The weakest link/ batteries and horses.

I just got back from running the Bike to Eric’s about 1/2 mile. One of my best friends. I was told He did some really stupid shit and went to jail. It is not his first time there. He is not wrapped too tight as they say. The bike pedals ok now but power to the motor cuts in and out. I checked the voltage of the SLAs and all three were over 13V. 13.03, 13.04 and 13.06 I believe. I turned off the kill switch for a minute and pedal and turn it on and have power again but it slowly cuts out after about a minute or less.

I am not sure it is my batteries now. I want to try and solve this mystery. Is it the controller or is the voltage of the SLAs dropping under load triggering the controllers low cutoff voltage. I always thought if SLAs were shot they would not hold voltage. These do indicating it could be the wiring or controller malfunctioning.

If I hook the SLAs to the Schwinn and the front kit later today and it does the same thing then it is the SLAs. If it don’t then it is the throttle, controller or the wiring. If it is the SLAs I will need new SLAs at a bargain price. There is no telling what quality I will get so the less I pay for them the better off I am. If the Schwinn goes three miles without slowing down much then I will be ordering the controller first next month.

I picked up two frames today. Don’t know what will happen to all those frames in the basement now Eric’s in jail. He is about 15 years younger than me but about as crazy as I was 20 years ago. Its nuts! I guess someone tried to jump him. Not sure. Got conflicting stories. A stabbing maybe. At least not murder I guess. Happened a while ago but someone called the cops on him for something else so now it’s over for him. Kid always going to jail! Out a couple years then back in a couple years.

We were going to start a bike shop. Now that’s gone to hell!!! Doug still wants a bike shop I guess but is not really into electric. Eric really wasn't either. I want to get a storage unit and just save up parts. I really want to start an e bike shop someday if I ever get any amount of money. If anyone is interested please let me know.

10/27
I did a lot today. I walked 1/2 mile and back to DSS. Then I took the Schwinn approx. 2.5 to 2.7 miles to drop off a doctor’s paper. The SLAs rolled the bike about 10mph there and showed no signs of slowing down until I got to the small hill about 1/2 mile away coming back. I pedaled to help the SLAs get up it. After that I could tell that max throttle would be less than 10mph so I slowed down to about 5mph to take it easy on them. Voltage was 12.97, 13.01 and 13.02V.

The exact reason why in my opinion a 36V charger is bad for charging SLAs. I am going to parallel charge them now. I usually always leave them hooked in parallel whether I am charging, desulfating or just storing them. This time I did not and waited a few hours to test them. I usually put them on the charger as soon as I get them upstairs. Imagine how much greater a chance of overcharging one of the SLA if I always charged in series and never kept them hooked in parallel.

The mystery is solved. The throttle on the little bike is defective. That is the weakest link. This also means that the only time I ever ran the SLAs low was when the as_ _ _ _ _ at the bike shop unplugged it. It was the throttle both other times I took it out and barley made it home. That and the two or three times I charged with the mega charger when I first got them like I mentioned on the last post. The amps drop down as I said anyway so basically I never really abused these SLAs much.

I saw the graph and understand all batteries have a limited number of charging cycles. Also all batteries lose range towards the end of their cycles. Most of my trips are two to four miles round trip. If any of the batteries slow down I will pedal to help out if I have a chain. I am not healthy enough to pedal exclusively, especially a heavy bike. Also I am not smart enough to understand that graph totally and the technical stuff I get up to a point but I still have a good point of my own I have come up with.

My point is if the batteries are old and can’t make the same trip they made most of their lives without slowing down then to keep running them as long as you can is not abusing them. It is like an old horse. Batteries need to be properly charged, balanced and desulfated if they are SLAs. A horse needs good food, water and grooming. It slows down when it gets old but still goes as long as it can. Eventually you will need a younger horse but as long as you don’t try to race it and take it easy especially on the trip back home, it is not abuse! I rest my case.

I had another doctor to go drop off papers to for social services. I took the LIPOs approx. 3.75 to 4 miles for that. Voltage was 4.06 to 4.08V before leaving and 3.86 to 3.89V returning. No signs of slowing down. 10 to 15mph was average speed. Obviously I will charge them back to 4.06 to 4.08V before running them again. I don’t want to run them below 3.7V unless I really have to. The hospital where my heart clinic is at least 5 miles round trip. That is the farthest I need to go and am not in any hurry to rush back there!

I will be posting that 24 to 60V controller and hopefully a link for six 10Ah SLAs. One will run a cooling fan and I am hoping for at least 33mph. I will replace the motor sprocket with new but keep the old one for a smaller motor turning less rpm. It may be good for that. Also I have never owned a horse or rode one except maybe once as a little kid. I am not even sure. What I am stating is a little common sense = technology most of the time plus I watched a lot of westerns when I was younger. Gun Smoke, Bonanza and plenty of John Wane movies.

Thanks. Please post when you can. LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-60V-motor-brush-controller-for-Electric-bike-bicycle-scooter-500-1000W-165-/171779520547?hash=item27fedb7823:g:N9MAAOSw~uhUmsW3&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-60V-500-1000W-motor-brush-controller-for-Electric-bike-bicycle-scooter-/171271656338?hash=item27e0961392:g:FpIAAOxykMpTJtrC&vxp=mtr

Is there any difference between these wo except for $2.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mighty-Max-4-Pack-ML10-12-12V-10AH-Scooter-Battery-Replaces-Haijiu-6-DFM-10A-/380925001328?hash=item58b0e63e70:g:4fsAAOSwFnFV~88-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mighty-Max-3-Pack-12V-10AH-Scooter-Battery-Replaces-Haijiu-6-DFM-10A-6DFM-10A/131212504447?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33431%26meid%3Dec99146f6f76491fb2e16f2cb18cfe10%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D380925001328

Cant really find much better. $80 will get me a six pack of 8AH SLAs. Still shopping. Anybody know of a deal please post it. SLA,LIPO or LIFEPO4.

Right hand keeps going numb. Another reason why I cant do an office job. Arthritis I guess. I broke it several times punching walls and doors when I was younger.


Also the Unite motor is rated at 1,000W@48V. Running it at 60V = 1250W. The controller is only rated at 1,000W@60V. Will it work? Will I get the extra power at 60V or will it be the same as 48V?

Please let me know. I am going back to battery hunting. Thanks. LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Well, 1250w motor output, with a typical mountain bike could push right near 33mph.
Would require a minimum of 1666w battery input
5 - 10Ah SLA = 333w from each battery

At that discharge rate, voltage sags from 13V down to 11V so it works out nearly perfectly as this chart shows at the 31.5A Line.
333w / 11V = 30A 3C discharge rate.
So with 5 new 10Ah SLA ...
You could reasonably near 33mph and sustain it for possibly 4 minutes, 5 min would be pushing it and at 6 minutes battery is effectively empty - dead empty.
(SLA controller Under Voltage Protection should engage at about 4.5 minutes to protect battery)

(.05C) - 20hr 105Ah @ 12.5V = 131wh usable battery output x4 = 524wh
(.16C) - 5hr 86Ah @ 12.1V = 104wh usable battery output x4 = 416wh
(.58C) - 1hr 60.9Ah @ 11.9V = 73wh usable battery output x4 = 292wh
(1C) - .5hr 52.5Ah @ 11.5V = 60wh usable battery output x4 = 240wh
(3C) - .1hr 31.5Ah @11V = 35wh usable battery output x4 = 140wh

31.5Ah x 44V = 1386w x 80% maximum motor efficiency 1108w motor output for 6 minutes @ 30mph+ till new battery empty = 3 mile range @ 30mph.
4 minutes = 2 mile range @ 30mph recommended as much less damaging to battery! (but at that discharge rate will still deteriorate very quickly!)

2 -2.5 mile range!
For possibly 1 trip.
At that discharge rate, batteries will deteriorate very quickly, might even melt down! Battery expends at ~30% efficiency so 70% damaging heat!!!
(1666w /30%) x 70% = 3887w heat (nearly 4 - 1000w heaters cooking the batteries!) .

Deterioration to 80% of original capacity:
3C produces < 50 cycles
2C produces ~ 250 cycles
1C produces ~ 500 cycles
High C rate discharges (and charges) are progressively damaging and as actual capacity declines, deterioration accelerates rapidly!

Instead of Li-ion at 1C providing 500 cycles till 80% original capacity
At 1C discharge SLA might provide 50 cycles
At 2C discharge SLA might provide 25 cycles
At 3C discharge SLA might provide 5 cycles

As for going with 8Ah SLA ... might not even last half as long ...

Based on stats, graphs, experience and reasonable conjecture.

 

[DAND214]

LC, you might try contacting that battery place in NY if they could do a better deal, since they need to ship short distance. Also ask for what you want, like 5,6,7 or 8 packs. They get it off Ebay and save money and maybe you too.

It still sounds like the batteries are dead. If you slowly accelerate and it goes but hit the throttle and it quits then it's most likely the batts. Maybe the Schwinn has less load.

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

It still sounds like the batteries are dead. If you slowly accelerate and it goes but hit the throttle and it quits then it's most likely the batts. Maybe the Schwinn has less load.

Dan

31.5V LVC (Low Voltage cut off) on YiYun 36V controller. - (Under Voltage Protection)
When batteries sag below ~33V it gradually restricts before full cutoff.
Schwinn controller might have no, or lower, LVC.

LC - Battery retained voltage is not an indicator of condition or capacity. (As explained previously)
Voltage sag under load is.
Attach mutimeter to batteries and watch voltage sag from 39V to <32V when throttle applied.
Attach to each battery in turn and watch as voltage sags to <11V.
Sag under identical discharge is a more reliable measure of condition-output capability-capacity!

 

[DrkAngel]

If I were you I'd take that money on the first and buy a bus pass.

Banned from bus for threatening bus driver! . :?

 

[DrkAngel]

It still sounds like the batteries are dead. If you slowly accelerate and it goes but hit the throttle and it quits then it's most likely the batts. Maybe the Schwinn has less load.

Dan

31.5V LVC (Low Voltage cut off) on YiYun 36V controller. - (Under Voltage Protection)
When batteries sag below ~33V it gradually restricts before full cutoff.
Schwinn controller might have no, or lower, LVC.

LC - Battery retained voltage is not an indicator of condition or capacity. (As explained previously)
Voltage sag under load is.
Attach mutimeter to batteries and watch voltage sag from 39V to <32V when throttle applied.
Attach to each battery in turn and watch as voltage sags to <11V.
Sag under identical discharge is a more reliable measure of condition-output capability-capacity!

I suffered similar poor performance from the YiYun 24V controller while I was experimenting with a 22.2V Lithium battery.
Even with a large Ah battery, as voltage declined and sag voltage neared 21V, performance declined notably!
LVC was reputedly 21V but voltage sag near 22V seemed to throttle back the controller, producing mediocre to poor performance.
Several miles of good performance from initial 25V, but declined drastically after static voltage neared 23V.

The 24V 28A YiYun brush controller might sound like junk , well yeah with a 22.2V battery ...
I would rate the protection as ideal for 24V batteries (limits discharge in fragile voltage range and disconnects at severely damaging voltage) and good for my 25.9V LiCo providing noticeable reduced performance as battery nears the "cliff" under 1C discharge.
I monitor battery voltage with Meter-alarm!

Better than ideal for 24V etc.!
At ~$13 delivered, the 24V 28A YiYun brush controller:
seems reliable with 2 samples tested for several thousand miles each;
supports 33.3V batteries (but loses LVC feasibility... );
supports 36-37V batteries " ;
supports 44.4V batteries? (briefly tested 1 sample using MeanWell MegaMod at 50V+ but has 50V caps so upgrading to 63V caps recommended for good life!)

I keep multiple of these controllers on hand and acquired enough 63V caps for several upgrades ...

 

[latecurtis]

I took the Schwinn approx. 2.5 to 2.7 miles to drop off a doctor’s paper. The SLAs rolled the bike about 10mph there and showed no signs of slowing down until I got to the small hill about 1/2 mile away coming back. I pedaled to help the SLAs get up it. After that I could tell that max throttle would be less than 10mph so I slowed down to about 5mph to take it easy on them. Voltage was 12.97, 13.01 and 13.02V.

The mystery is solved. The throttle on the little bike is defective. That is the weakest link.

Again you did not read my entire post. The SLAs are old but not dead yet.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. pop pop!! / new throttle.

What was that MR. Rodgers song? It is a beautiful day in the neighborhood? Drop the neighbor part and take out a beautiful and put another and you get, It is another day in the Hood. There was just a shooting across the street from my house! There are police outside the house. They got about 50 feet of yellow tape. It is tied to the rear view mirror and they are working on taping off a large area.
I heard arguing in Spanish I think and pop pop a few minutes ago. I was not by the window. There are several people talking to the police. I really don’t want to get involved. They are blocking off the whole street. There are people yelling in Spanish or Guyanese.

This is insane! It is like the OK Corral! We defiantly need to move! I am not sure if the corner store got robbed or what. They are checking the trunks of cars for bodies I think! I am not making any of this up. It will be all over the news tomorrow. Schenectady NY. Mont pleasant. I'm not lying. I telling it like it is. Welcome to Gunsmoke 2015.

On a different note I found the 3 way switch I ordered a while ago. It had three wires and center is off then there is a fast and slow. Slow don’t work at all and fast is full throttle. That was a waste of money however at some point in time before the Currie upgrade I bought a potentiometer at Radio Shack. Someone on this forum posted that it can be used for a temporary throttle.

I got it working the first time I hooked it up. I did not want to drill thru steel and also did not want to mess with the brake lever to remove the defective throttle so I drilled a hole thru the thumb part of it and taped everything good. There are three terminals on the device. I hooked the red wire to the center and blue and black wires to the other terminals. It works.

I will get my money’s worth from that at least. The red wire goes to a kill switch. I tested it out and got up to about 23mph easily. There is a lot of play in the chain though. It needs to be a little tighter I think for a top speed of 27mph I would guess. I went to Eric’s house. Most of his charges were dropped but he has to do six months for resisting arrest. It is a Vacation for him.

I really need to be saving for another place I think and the ol lady don’t want me spending any more money one bikes. I am not sure what I will do. I am still going to look at batteries. I really want that 24 to 60V controller for $39 but may have to order a $15 controller and four 10AH SLAs for about $75 with the shipping if I can come up with the money somehow. With the front basket I could haul the LIPOs in the cash box.

This would allow me about four miles with the 40AH of SLAs and another four miles when I switch over to the LIPOs. It would also prevent me from running any of the batteries low. I am going to set the new throttle or to a slow speed and do a little pedal assist tomorrow and see what my useful range is with the SLAs I have now. Hopefully Wall Mart and back.

It is simple as I can set it for a slow speed and not have to touch it again. If I want to stop I can hit the kill switch and apply the brakes. I was not skilled enough when I first got it but now can run a switch for a thumb throttle. See pic switch. The left side of the diagram is the current wiring set up. The right side shows the future upgrade. The switch in the right position is throttle. The left position the pot...... which is perfect cruise control.

Remember all the switch ideas I had. I posted a lot of them. The difference however is this one will work. I will need AVC. (Any video converter) to post a video. Hopefully I can download it to a flash drive tomorrow after I post this. I still have that 26" Road master frame. A 3300W AmpFlow motor would be good for about 45mph I think. I also picked up another 20" Mongoose frame a few days ago. I am not 100% sure what my next project will be. I will keep everyone posted though. Please post if you can. Thanks.

LC. out.



http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__80907__Multistar_High_Capacity_6S_20000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html

How many AH are these 20 each? It makes me want to rob a bank. If I ever get my settlement how far will two of these go at 33mph and 44.4V?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18209__Turnigy_nano_tech_8000mAh_5S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

It sucks they don't have the 20.0 in 5s for the 3300W AmpFlow motor. The 8.0 is as high as I see in 5s. I imagine at 45 to 47mph it will require at least two16000mah. The AmpFlow motor is rated at 36V max. If I were to run 44.4 it would probably damage the motor however it should reach 50mph easily but not worth burning out the motor. What battery set up will I need to power the 3300W AmpFlow motor? If or when I get my SSI settlement I am ordering the AmpFlow motor. I want to race Skalabala if he ever gets that brushless motor going.

I downloaded any video converter. I want to do a long video but will have to post on youtube and post a link. I don't know how but hopefully can figure it out for Monday. Thanks.

I just set up a you tube account called latecurtis. I even got to the screen upload video. It should be up Monday. Thanks

LC. out

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 100% 10/31 / 80 killowatts 11/1
I just got back from Wall- Mart. There was too much slack in the chain so today I got it tighter. I hit about 24mph I think for a brief period maybe a few seconds. Then I went about 10mph and walked up the little hill by Wall-Mart approx. 1.3 miles one way. On the way back I did a lot of pedal assist. The usable range on flat without pedal assist is a little less than two miles at 10mph I think.

Also with the chain now nice and tight it slows down when I hit the kill switch. It also rolls slowly down hills. The tight chain and spoke sprocket vs a freewheel sprocket give it an advantage when I need to stop. The video tomorrow will show this. If the chain were any tighter it would be too much resistance and bad for the motor. I have it perfect now. see pics 1 & 2. Cant post over 52kb. They can be enlarged with windows photo viewer.

I think top speed is about 25mph. it is about as fast as the Schwinn with the hub motor at 44.4V. I won’t need 60V to achieve 30mph. 48V will do it easily I think. The converter did not work. I was told I can upload a video from my camera to you tube. If so hopefully you will see the top speed@36V. It is impressive!

I discussed new batteries with the ol lady. The conversation did not go too well. I am not giving up though. I could simply order a cheap $15 - 48V Chinese controller and run the LIPOs but see that as a waste of LIPO power as they are also reaching the end of their life cycle. I like to reserve them for long trips over 5 miles round trip. Since most of my trips are under four miles 40 to 50AH of SLAs are ideal.
48V is not really needed for flat except for racing Doug but will be better than 36V up hills with 40 or 50 pounds of groceries in the front basket. Also 40 to 48AH is better than 30 to 36AH. Unfortunately I may have to settle with three more 12AH SLAs as it may be all I can afford If I can get them cheap. four 10AH SLAs with shipping is about $75. With a $15 controller that is $90.

I desperately need new sneakers as the ball of my left foot is so sore I can barely walk. Also I need long johns for the winter and jeans. $50 is actually too much to spend on bikes for the month of November. If I get denied SSI the right thing to do would be to kill myself! I am very tired of being broke all the time. If I had a car I could take the ol lady to the dentist and the doctor. That is why she don’t want to give me money for batteries.

If it were not for the ol lady I would be in a homeless shelter. There is no way I could even afford $550 for rent. $450 is the maximum social services gives on a grant. That includes rent and money for clothes and personal items. That is all I get plus about $190 in food stamps. If I were by myself State Prison or death would be the only good options.

I am facing open heart surgery and am scared to death. I am also supposed to get knee replacement and back surgery. Obviously those of you who know me and read my posts also know I am not mentally stable. There are a lot of reasons why I should get my SSI and no logical reason why I should get denied. "It is my money and I want it now." That is from a TV ad. It is true. I worked on the books over 30 years and paid into the system and now social security wants to play games with my money.

If I had a $840 SSI check I could order a 48V controller for $15 or $20 and two of those 20.0 6s bricks for $145 each and still have close to $500 left in the bank. If I get a car however when it breaks down and ends up in a garage how far will $840 go? I would be lucky to have $100 or $200 left. Garages get close to $100 per hour just for labor. Then you have to buy the parts. Garages typically charge double for parts vs an auto parts store.

The ol lady don’t understand that. Her rich husbands always paid the garage bill for her in the past. A medical cab is free and the bus costs about $4 to ride all day. It is a lot cheaper than owning a car. As far as I am concerned cars are for rich people. I have about 34 years’ experience to base that statement on. I know I am right.

I am allowed back on busses now as the bus driver I had the problem with is retired however busses and taxi cabs are not as good as a reliable e bike. The other day when I made it to two separate doctors to drop off paperwork all within about 80min. It would have been impossible to do with a bus or a cab.

Sometimes you have to wait 1/2 hour or more for either. I made it 2-1/2 miles and back home in less than 40 min with the SLAs including the 10 minutes or so seeing the doctor and three miles in a different direction round trip with the LIPOs in about the same amount of time. Even if a cab would wait it would have been about 35 or $40 easily as they charge by the minute to wait. It is ridiculous!
Also busses are a good thing to stay out of. Colds, Flu and other life threatening viruses are there. Also it was in the paper that bedbugs are on city busses. I only ride them when I absolutely have no other choice. The same way with cabs. I truly hate both of them.

The only time an e bike is not as good as a car around town is when it is raining or snowing. Those times there is no substitute for a roof over your head. That and really bitter cold weather. e bikes don’t have heaters. I do want a car for those times but dont look forward to paying car insurance again every month and defiantly dont want anything to do with a garage bill. Been there and done that way too many times. My heart dont need that type of stress ever again.

Hopefully I can get a video tomorrow and post it on youtube Monday. The Dimond Back is officially an awsome running machine. It was about six months in the making. Now it is finally 100%. Doug is still going to shorten the brake lines and fine tune the brakes but otherwise this is a finished project. I will be reinstalling the front basket tonight while I charge the LIPOs for Tuesdays doctor’s appointment.

11/1
The videos came out ok I guess. I really wanted to go about three blocks farther. A right turn at the stop sighn where I waited for all the cars. Three blocks from there going left is a straight shot about a half a mile with no intersections. When I get new batteries or upgrade to 48V you will see about 30mph instead of the 20mph in those videos. Even fully charged the SLAs I got now are lacking to say the least.The brakes and stopping power are there though. I still did not have Doug shorten the cables and fine tune the brakes. They will work even better then.

11/2
I doubt the SLAs will make it to Wall-Mart. There is $43 on my benefit card but it don’t work at the ATM. I have to buy something at Wall-Mart and get cash back. Then I will have to deposit it in the bank to order a cheap Chinese 48V 1,000W controller. I do not have money for batteries of any type right now. I will have to use the LIPOs if I want to get any use out of the Diamond Back. I may not get any more SLAs ever. I may just wait for a deal on more 6s LIPOs. I have two 6s chargers. If I get LIFEPO4s I would need a different charger right? Not worth it. Too much money.
Also I will need to see a foot specialist. I got new sneakers last night but walked to Wall-Mart to get them. The damage to my feet is already done. I am in a lot of pain. I am hoping a foot doc. can write a prescription for good shoes with arch supports or something. All I could afford was $13 sneakers. I really need batteries but at least should have a 48V controller this month. Then I can run the 20" bike all the time and won’t have to carry that big 26" bike up the stairs any more. Thanks. Please post when you can.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

uploading to youtube is taking forever. 40 min left. library closing now. just another big waste of time.

 

[DrkAngel]

Not purported as gospel or accurate ... more ... reasonably supported conjecture?
Did some derivative calculations based on previous posted graphs charts etc


48V 10ah battery - LiPo 480wh
... to 80% of rated capacity ... - based on Low C LiCo (High C LiCo survive better but not great)
10mph = 46 miles range - 500 cycles @.22C = 23,000 miles
15mph = 30 miles range - 450 cycles @.5C = 13,500 miles
20mph = 20 miles range - 400 cycles @1C = 8000 miles
25mph = 13 miles rang - 200 cycles @2C = 2600 miles
30mph = 8 miles range - 50 cycles @~4C = 400 miles

48V 10ah battery - SLA 480wh
... to 80% of rated capacity ... based on typical SLA
10mph = 40 miles range - 200 cycles = 8000 miles
15mph = 20 miles range - 100 cycles = 2000 miles
20mph = 10 miles range - 50 cycles = 500 miles
25mph = 5 miles range - 20 cycles = 100 miles
30mph = 2 miles range - 5 cycles = 10 miles

Observations:
Small batteries = higher C rate = rapid degradation
High speeds require high discharge rates = greatly reduced range & rapid battery degradation
You can't expect good survivability from batteries when you exceed reasonable discharge rates!

 

[Sunder]

Cars are definitely expensive items. Most people don't actually know how expensive, since they only see the regular day to day costs like insurance and fuel. Repairs, accidents, depreciation are often ignored. The cheapest car to run in Australia costs $5000 per year. The most expensive was a fuel hogging, high maintenance $22,500 per year.

Add to this cost tolls and parking (Both are free to eBikes, but not to cars), and eBikes are clear winners. My wife and I have done with just one car for the past 6 years of marriage, even though we have two kids and both work, because I can do 90% of my travel by eBike, and when I can't, work pays for a cab. I think this has saved me at least $5k a year, as above, but more realistically, probably around $10k, since if I'm going to drive, it's not going to be in a shitbox that does 0-100 in 15 seconds.

I read this article and thought of you LC. It's very simple advice, but it can be applied to the nth degree. What I mean by that, is that over the years, I've become a more calm and considered person, but with getting married, having children, becoming a more senior manager, I've seriously had give more consideration for everything I say. As a worker, it's okay to politely say "This is not my responsibility". As a line manager, it's okay to say "This is actually so and so's responsibility, you might want to talk to him". As a senior leader, you need to be thinking through responses, and providing guidance and mentoring to others.

It's the same with home. With friends, parents and siblings, you can shrug off a lot. Someone has a complaint, you can just politely say "Okay, I'll take it on board" and do little to nothing. With a good marriage, you need to consider what a good response is. It's not enough to say "That's your problem". Spouses have feelings for a reason, and whether they're justified or not, you still need to work them out.

Anyway, have a read and let me know what you think: http://www.danhardie.com/this-mistake-will-guarantee-you-make-bad-decisions/

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 11/4 what are my battery options?

I don’t really want to get any more SLAs. I have about $85 to spend including shipping. If I get the variable 24 to 60V controller then I will only have $45 to spend on batteries. I could get three 10AH SLAs maybe but probably not four. Another option would be two new 6s bricks but did not see any deals on Hobby King yesterday.

Four 10AH SLAs and a cheap Chinese controller maybe. The fact is though if you saw the video I am ready to move on. I watched it again and it is obvious I was reaching 20mph but chose to stop. Going straight there goes over a bridge and at the bottom of the hill is a speed bump then really shitty road with potholes. Three blocks right to the left is good for about a half a mile. It is open also so you can see ahead with few houses or people.

The Diamond Back will top out about 25mph I imagine. In the video maybe 21 or 22mph. The motor was not up to full rpms yet I don’t think. If you turn up the sound on the video you can hear the motor and you can tell it had more before I stopped. Actually I think the video came out rather well. I hope I can post a link. I am going to try tomorrow.

I really worked hard for this one. The Currie upgrade was a real piece of cake compared to this. Not only did I have the motor all apart but ordered the wrong motor sprocket and still made it work when I had no money for the right one. I am on my second Unite motor and had dual 280W Unite motors from toy scooters hooked to a single wheel sprocket in between 1,000W Unite motors. The front mount was a big challenge but I finally mastered it.

My question is if I get the 24 to 60V controller and only have money for two 10AH or 12AH SLAs can I still use the old ones in parallel. See diagram. The voltage on all three is 13.38V each fully charged. They simply have about 1/3 of the range as when they were new. If this set up will work I should be able to get a little more energy out them than running them in series and perhaps more life out of the two new SLAs if it is all I can afford.

Please let me know because I may have already ordered two or three SLAs by the time you read this post and I really want to know if it will work as I could do it for 48 or 60V also depending on how many SLAs I order. I may cheap out and order 8AH SLAs. If I get four of them dirt cheap and the variable controller I could get 60V with the old SLAs. There is plenty of room for them in the back. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.

Obviously YouTube failed miserably again at uploading the video. A video converter like I used to have looks like the only option. I have not been able to download one to my flash drive and install it at home. I really hate computers sometimes. I got a duel core with 4 gig of memory and the only thing it is good for is word pad. I don't play stupid games any more. I got windows movie maker but it wont work without converting the video. I have to convert to mpeg1 and trim the video so when I convert it to MP4 it will be under 512mb to post. Without a converter the PC is worthless.

I ordered the 24 to 60V brushed controller. I also ordered two 10AH SLAs. I want to run them like the diagram for now until I can afford two more SLAs. I also got my 280W unite motor and the 24V controller that went with it from the guy I gave it to for $6. When I get the new controller I can use the 36V for both 280W motors in series on the 26" Roadmaster with the 20" wheels. Dual motors on the back hooked to a single wheel sprocket. It is #25 chain. I will try to use that 62 tooth or the 80 tooth #25 sprocket I guess. I dont want to put any money in it but just use what I got laying around. Please let me know about the battery diagram. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Usually a bad idea to mix new batteries and old. The higher internal resistance can mean that the new batteries effectively waste energy "charging" the old ones, with a net loss.

 

[DrkAngel]

Much better off just running the 2 new batteries.
Should supply good reasonable speed and rpms should drop into a much better region of the new torque curve.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment p6.mp4View attachment p5.mp4View attachment p4.mp4View attachment 5View attachment p2.mp4View attachment p1.mp4

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. The biggest piece of shit!
The $6 I paid to get the motor and controller back was not a total loss. The motor sprocket still spins. As far as the 24V controller goes though it is a total piece of shit. I really had my hopes up I could run the 20" Diamond Back with the Lipos. I even ordered a 24V thumb throttle awhile back as the throttle which came with the controller was a single speed twist throttle. Also I had two controllers but think I may have left one in Randy’s back yard before he moved. That’s gone forever!

The controllers were the same though and obviously I wasted about 10 or $15 on this four wire thumb throttle a couple of months ago thinking it would work. Shit1 shows the controller and the throttle. Shit2 shows the wiring. red, green, yellow and black coming from the throttle and red, green and two yellows coming from the controller. In my book that makes the controller the biggest piece of shit, even bigger than the three 12Ah SLAs that I am desulfating right now.

I am really glad I ordered the 24 to 60V brushed controller. I really hope it don’t have 4 wires for a throttle though. It comes with a twist throttle but I prefer a thumb throttle. Actually I want a set up with the pot... for cruise control like in the diagram I posted a few days ago. I can get the switch cheap to switch between the two. It could be awhile before I get the variable controller and the two 10Ah SLAs I ordered though. Thats what sucks.

I have $43 in the bank but have a choice to make. A new pair of jeans and laundry or two more 10Ah SLAs. I have no jeans except a pair with no zipper and a pair of pants all ripped out. I really wish I could make that 24V throttle work. I could simply run the LIPOs until next month when I can afford to order two more 10Ah SLAs for $37 with free shipping like the pair I ordered today.
I tried every combination possible and nothing happened. I did not try the pot though. I am not sure if the controller even works. Is there a way to make it work? Please let me know. Other good news is I worked a deal with Doug and got the converter and my favorite old school PC game Command and Conquer Yuri’s Revenge.

I split up the video in six parts. It was a lot of work but shows the highlights of the video. P1 shows the switches and wiring. p2 shows initial take off. p3 and p4 are acceleration which is close to maximum in p4. Most important to you brake enthusiasts is p5 when I hit the kill switch. p5 and p6 show stopping power. I built an e bike machine folks! Yes I am patting myself on the back.

It is close to the speed of the Schwinn@44.4V with shitty 36V batteries. 48V of fresh SLA will achieve 30mph I think. 60V will be a lot faster than Doug can pedal. It will be the third race. Doug beat both the Currie and the Schwinn at 36V. I never raced him with the Schwinn at 44.4V. I am glad I ordered a 60V controller. A second camera will go on the back for comedy purposes so everyone can watch Doug pedaling his ass off trying to keep up. Maybe it will do the lad some good and he will quit smoking cigarettes.

That may not happen for a while though. I will need five new SLAs to do that and I only got two coming. I may get two more next month. That is why I did the diagram so I can try to get full use of the old SLAs and try to make the new 10Ah ones last longer. Next month hopefully I can get four of the same and will have an extra one for a fan and I can scrap these shitty 12Ah SLAs. I really wish I could make this 24V controller work. It is currently the biggest piece of shit! If anyone knows how to hook it to the pot or the 24V thumb throttle please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

LC! ... Explained before ...
Single speed throttle and controller are a simple contactor ... not a speed controller.
Throttle and controller are a simple on\off.
Also warned you not to attach a hall throttle to contactor due to possible damage!

Most of my posts are brief and concise ... please take the necessary few seconds required to read them ...

 

[DAND214]

Explained before ...
Single speed throttle and controller are a simple contactor ... not a speed controller.
Throttle and controller are a simple on\off.
Also warned you not to attach a hall throttle to contactor due to possible damage!

Most of my posts are brief and concise ... please take the necessary few seconds required to read them ...

Hey DA, I read them, all.
Great information, with or without graphs.

LC, what size bike does Doug use to race you, 20 or 26"?
Either way set up the race for a couple blocks not just a sprint. That will just about kill him if he's not in top shape, If your bike does 25+mph.
Friend of mine sprints to 30mph for about 20seconds and slows down. I can pass him any time but I don't, let him win. Better friends that way.

I still think you really need a SPEDO so you know what you are really doing. If I didn't throw out the ones I had I would send them to you, Still looking around, gotta have a new one here somewhere.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I can pass him any time but I don't, let him win. Better friends that way.

Yes I thought the same thing but it is time for Doug to go down. I just ordered two more 10Ah SLAs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-12v-10Ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-SLA-Battery-for-Schwinn-Mongoose-Electric-Scooter/151711403000?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D7212449c4f6844eaa63e60797c6b0c8d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D141109200164

I got four of these coming in now.

He beat me twice. Now it is my turn. How fast do you guys think I was going in the video p4. It looks like 22 or 23mph easily. Yes a speedo would be good I definitely cant afford one this month. My e bike bill is almost $120 total now with the four batteries and the controller. I am broke the rest of the month but wont have to worry about batteries. It is actually better for the LIPOs also as if I need to make a long trip 5 to 6 miles I can run the LIPOs in the front basket to make the trip to where I am going and then switch to the four 10Ah SLAs to return home.

What do you guys think about the stopping power in p5 and p6. I am happy with it. I still could use shorter brake cables and minor adjustments so if I do race Doug I wont bring it up. It will have to be his idea. I hope you do send a speedo Dan I would really love to see 30mph confirmed when I get the four new batteries. Also if I do race it could be a three way race with a camera crew. Doug always has at least two girls around so we could put one at the start and one at the finish line plus my onboard camera. Also a kid named Austin on the Schwinn with the LIPOs would be in the race. We would need to make sure there is not too much traffic. The race would be about a half a mile.

Now that I have both the 280W unite motors I will be installing them on the back of that 26" Roadmaster bike with the 20" wheels. It will get the 36V controller from the Dimond Back when my new controller shows up. I will run the dual motors in series for 2100rpm and 420W total. Both motors will see 18V and 210W I believe. They will turn a single wheel sprocket. The 80 tooth #25 is the one I currently have to use. I hope it is not bent.

I checked out the sprocket calculator on page 71 and found some interesting data. The current set up on the Diamond Back is geared five mph high for 35mph with the 56T wheel sprocket. The Dual motor set up will be geared for 17mph with the 80 tooth sprocket and when I replace the 80 tooth with a 56T like the one on the Diamond Back I will be able to achieve 57mph with dual 3300W AmpFlow motors when I get enough money for them. I will have plenty of time to work on the brakes and get it running with the little starter motors until then. That folks is my master plan. Please let me know what you guys think of the videos. There will be another video when I get the new controller at 48V. Thanks.

LC. out.