new eZip motor

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Looks like a lost cause. I'm probably only getting 3 or 4 grand anyway. Not even close enough to do a convert. I really don't want a gas car. Not only does it pollute the planet. When it breaks down garages get rich off my little monthly income. I'm not putting out half my money for something over 100.000 miles on it. $1,000 for a used piece of shit and $500 to put it on the road. A few months later and it goes in a garage and in the middle of the month I don't even have enough money to go out and buy a cheeseburger. count me out. I'm not doing it. I'm out. Thanks.

LC. out.

ps. When the ol lady finds out she is going to leave me. Maybe she will find a rich guy with a Lexus or a Lincoln, who knows.
 
As difficult as it might be to believe ...
Modern cars have nearly the same wind resistance as a cyclist on a mountain bike.
With good pressure-efficient tires and proper alignment it requires very little motor output to maintain reasonable speed ... drafting in traffic can even improve that.

Hills and acceleration are totally different factors!
 
I think a low monthly payment is about all I can afford for any vehicle. I wish I could get something electric though.
 
Sounds like you want an eTrike and locking storage shed-eTrike garage.
 
latecurtis said:
I think a low monthly payment is about all I can afford for any vehicle. I wish I could get something electric though.

Get a really old Prius, and do the research to replace the battery with a lithium one. I remember reading an article that someone said that they like tripled the range of the Prius by increasing the battery to something like 4kwh using as much lithium as they could pack into the original pack.

The original Prius used NiMh, and it only used the area of the battery between 40% charged and 60% charged. Lithium would last virtually forever under those conditions.

You know... I'm kinda half tempted to do that as a project car. They're only ~$4-5k here. See if I could get the field services manual for it, and figure out how difficult it would be to replace the battery pack with some high quality Lipo. Wouldn't be for a while though. Wife would kill me after we just spent $37k on a new car.
 
Just did a bit more research. The early 2000 Priuses used 28 x 6 cell packs. 6 NiMh cells will have a voltage range of 7.2 to 7.8v.

If you replace the 6 cells with LiPo, that will make a 2S cell operate between 3.6v and 3.9v - Perfect for extremely long life. I believe those are the ranges that the US Military uses for all their LiPo based gear.

Add to that the fact that it's never discharging completely, and never charging right up, and you've strongly reduced the likelihood of puffing and LiPo fires.

This is looking to be a viable conversion.
 
IMG_0908.JPGIMG_0907.JPG
 
DAND214 said:
Hey Sunder, does this mean you would send it up when your done :lol: :lol: :mrgreen:
Or better yet, you come over and help??? :mrgreen:
Just jokin.

Dan

I would, but we drive on the wrong side of the road :p
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire burns.

I got a new 20" bike for the unite motor. It is red but will be painted flat black. I am throwing out the forks I cut and put the handlebars that were on the Diamond Back on the red bike

I am selling the Magna for $20 which is what I paid to this guy I know so he can give it to his daughter for Christmas.

Also I want to put a geared Hub motor on the back of the Diamond Back. It needs to be small, light and chrome to match the new front end. The rear rack on the D back is going on the other bike too. If I get the rear hub motor for the D back a professional small factory rear rack will replace it with a professional LIPO setup.

I ran into a former co worker from my last job that I get along with well and he knows where I can get a Honda Civic for $1000. I might get it if it is light and can convert it later on or trade it in for an electric car or a hybrid. That is unless anyone wants to sell me an electric car or knows where I can get one for a monthly payment.

I really wanted to buy the truck already converted but doubt I will get enough money and don't see the contact info. when I click on it. I click on Bernie and get some stupid message about no e mail program. I use Gmail. I really don't understand the message. Maybe someone can figure it out. If someone can contact him please let me know if he still has it and will take $2000. Maybe I will get 4 or 5 grand. If that happens and I can get him down to 2 grand all it would need is $1,000 worth of LIPOs for about 30 miles and I could get a few more each month to increase the range from there. Here is the link.

http://www.evfinder.com/classifieds.htm

The 1996 Toyota on the top. I don't know where it is though. I need to find that out also.

Please let me know. Thanks.



LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
all it would need is $1,000 worth of LIPOs for about 30 miles and I could get a few more each month to increase the range from there. Here is the link.

You either have a bargain source of LiPo, which I insist you share with us, or you are severely underestimating the range you can get out of it.

A leaf can get 107 miles out of a 30kwh battery. That's a small, light, aerodynamic car driven under perfect conditions for marketing purposes. That means if you only wanted to go 30 miles, you need 8.4kwh.

Now, remove the marketing conditions, make it a bigger, heavier, less aerodynamic truck, and you just take a guess what you need.

But if you can get 8.4kwh battery for $1k, I'll buy at least 4. Maybe even more.
 
How much would it cost for batteries? If not LIPO then what is the cheapest for 30 miles in batteries?

10 kv?let say 100 volts nomial, so about about a 24s pack ( 12s is 50 volts..) and figure 100 amps for any good duration, you'd need atleast a 50amp pack, or 50000mah.... which with 4000mah cells you'd need basically what... 13p about.. so 24s13p... which is 312 cells.. but you'd only need like 5c capable cells.. maybe 20 dollars a piece? 6240 dollars...

r


Sorry guys. I guess I will have to go gas. I feel like I am not only letting myself down but also the planet earth and all ES members. Unless some sort of fantastic new type of batteries come out heavy EVs are just impractical as batteries just don't store enough energy to power them. The only exception would be cars that weigh around 1500lbs. Thanks. Please post when you can.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
How much would it cost for batteries? If not LIPO then what is the cheapest for 30 miles in batteries?

Okay, I'm going to take a stab in the dark, and say you need 12Kwh of power. Why? Because I can get 45km (ABout 28 miles) out of my SUV, which has a 12Kwh battery, and is probably similar in weight and aerodynamic profile to a pickup truck.

These babies seem like an absolute bargain to me:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56840__Multistar_High_Capacity_4S_5200mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack.html

Each one holds 77wh, give or take. That means to make 12000kwh, you need about 156 of them. So that'll be $3,276 + shipping + BMS + joiners etc + a shedload of work to get it to the right configuration for your controller.
 
Hadn't thought about the current requirements. I guess my pack is a bit small.
 
80907.jpgI got that info somewhere on Google. I am actively researching and am looking hard at BACKORDER King. Hobby Kings King of backorder special. I have been looking awhile at them and never saw them in stock. How many of these for 12Killowatts?

I am opening calculator now and will edit this post. I am kind of wondering if I will be close. See what you and DA and Dan figures too.

Minimum Capacity: 20000mAh
Configuration: 6S1P / 22.2V / 6Cell
Constant Discharge: 10C
Peak Discharge (10sec): 20C
Pack Weight: 2405g
Pack Size: 200 x 90 x 60mm
Charge Plug: JST-XH
Discharge Plug: XT90

Capacity(mAh) 20000
Config (s) 6
Discharge (c) 10
Weight (g) 2405
Max Charge Rate (C) 2
Length-A(mm) 200
Height-B(mm) 90
Width-C(mm) 60
price $145.92

4.1 * 6 =24.6 * 5 = 123V@20Ah
parallel = 123V@40Ah for 10. $145 + shipping
4.1 * 6 =24.6 * 5 = 123V@20Ah

123V * 40A = 4920W = 1C

4920 * 3 = 14.76 killowatts = 3C


Thing is though I don't know the voltage for the truck motor. This would work for 120V. A 240V motor however would need 20 - 20.0 bricks. If my math is correct I wish DA would calculate range in a 2500lb vehicle.

With good pressure-efficient tires and proper alignment it requires very little motor output to maintain reasonable speed ...

I read DAs post and understand it. It makes sense and I get the concept as I can see with a bike that goes close to 30mph on flat and less than 10mph up a hill.

It makes perfect sense to own a hybrid as the gas motor should only be used for going up hills or 65mph on the thruway. The electric motors should go at least 45mph though and a good 100miles. If I get the Civic and it is front wheel drive and not 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive could one or two electric motors be hooked up on the back somehow?

You would need to stop and turn the gas motor on before going up a steep hill so as not to get stuck part of the way up and have to pull over to start up the gas engine.

How about a scanner that detects hills going up or an incline so people with hybrids can switch over to gas. I am not sure if you could start in neutral and shift into drive awhile under electric power. If electric motors power the rear wheels and gas controlled the front the automatic gas transmission may need a special feature to enable it without damage.

The thing to do with the gas motor would be rebuild it to burn hydrogen if possible as it only releases water vapor and not toxic gasses. A hydrogen burning or any internal combustion engine not running off of fossil fuels could also charge the batteries thru an alternator/generator.
 
latecurtis said:
You would need to stop and turn the gas motor on before going up a steep hill so as not to get stuck part of the way up and have to pull over to start up the gas engine.

How about a scanner that detects hills going up or an incline so people with hybrids can switch over to gas. I am not sure if you could start in neutral and shift into drive awhile under electric power. If electric motors power the rear wheels and gas controlled the front the automatic gas transmission may need a special feature to enable it without damage.

Hybrids have a lot of ways to work, but that isn't one of them.

Generally, you have a CVT gearbox, and when the load on the electric motor is too high, the gas motor starts, and the revs are already synced by the CVT, meaning no damage.

The Outlander and the Volt is a bit different. It can either act as a generator and just provide more power to the motor, or it can act as a direct drive motor, meaning it drives the wheels directly, with the electric motor supply additional torque to prevent the gas motor from going into the inefficient ranges.

By the way, 22.2v x 20ah = 444wh.

12000wh /444wh = 27 modules.

To get the right voltage however, you are unlikely to finish with 27 modules, so you need to account for that.
 
Those 4s packs you posted are a good deal. I will order at least six when I get my money.

If you were to guess how many volts is the motor in that 96 EV truck I posted?


2,441 to 2,782 lbs is the curb weight on a 2005 civic. Not sure what year the one for $1000 is but it is light enough and front wheel drive. Could I throw a 20killowatt golden motor on the back with a bunch of Lipo packs over them in the trunk and make it work somehow?

th.jpg


http://www.usedcarsgroup.com/used-hybrids-under-5000-p2

$499 for a 2000 hybrid and it is 3000 miles away. That's a bitch! I wonder if the motor in a hybrid could be upgraded to go about 45mph. I think they only do about 30mph normally. Mabye overvolt the motor with LIPO power and run enough LIPo to extend range to 100 miles.
 
eCar Conversion Considerations

Manual steering (No motor to power assist)
Manual brakes (Not ICE for vacuum for power assist)
Light weight (major consideration for stop and go traffic)
aerodynamic (major consideration for highway travel)
 
See - eCar - Hybridization
Build an eCar
1. Begin with a short range battery ...
a. supplement longer trips with small generator, in pickup bed or bumper mount.
b. small trailer with generator and luggage space for trips (Bonus - trailer can park near house and provide emergency power during power outages)

2. 4wd can attach generator to engine and eMotor to rear wheels
a. Small battery for in town
b. start motor to provide additional electric for longer trips
c. enable ICE front drive for hills or expressway speeds (allows smaller battery and eMotor)
d. enable ICE front drive plus eMotor for hills or expressway speeds (allows smaller battery and eMotor)
 
eCar considerations - more

Price
Small car with bad engine or transmission is just as good as expensive proper running vehicle.

Plan battery size for typical use w/reserve
100mile range battery for 5 mile trips seems ... wasteful?

Gear for typical use
1. Gearing for expressway use then running at city speeds reduces acceleration, hill climbing ability and efficiency
2. 2 eMotors? EG - (72V battery) run in series 36V x 300A each for 40mph full power - switch to parallel for 72V x 150A each for 80mph full power
 
Got the controller today but lost my #415 chain. I think my asshole friend took it to fix his 26" Mongoose. Not sure. Same idiot who broke the first Unite motor. Tons of regular chain here and he takes the #415 chain. I should kill him for that. Six miles to the nearest bike shop that has it. frock that!! I am sick of working on it. It is also 5 miles to the Home Depot for more hardware to reinstall the motor. Money should be in any day now. Not wasting it on a stupid car. found what I am looking for and am putting it on a 20" bike. Front or back. Wherever it will fit. I don't really care. Really pissed off. Thanks. LC. out.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-speed-3000watts-electric-motor-hub_1995848771.html?spm=a2700.7724857.29.66.Huyn8D
 
7.JPG1.JPG2.JPG3.JPG4.JPG5.JPG6.JPGAs the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Winter beater.

All I got was two grand. Not getting a car. Not getting a fast motor right now either. Chain was at Dougs and I left the butchered Dimond Back forks. Hope he throws them out.Will run my new winter beater.pic 2 &7. Pic 1 shows the pressure treated stuff I went with this time. Was looking at some thick steel bars but the weight was ridiculous. $20 for the hardware this time instead of at least $30.

Why I am posting this? Because if it works then its a really cheap build. Beginners may want to look at this. I know some here feel it is too big a motor for the front but a 36V or 24V motor would work also. I'm heavy so I need 750W to get me up hills. Federal power limit on motor right? 20mph is the federal speed limit?

Pic 3 shows the chain lined up and pic4 is the top view. Pic 5 shows the problem I have had many times but fixed it this time. The left side of pic 5 shows the bolt running thru about 1/2 of an inch at least below the handlebar. Pic6 shows the chain. If it is even slightly loose; when sitting on it it will be loose. It needs to be tight with not much slack before sitting on it and if the bolt is hitting the handlebar when flipping upside down to tighten the chain it can be frustrating. Pic 6 shows the bolts going at an angle as I had to take out the original bolts ,loosen the brackets and tap them down and re-drill the motor bolt holes. Then flip it and tap it down tap it down until it is tight and crank down the bolts.

I am also thinking a way to mount 6 - 10Ah SLAs in the middle of the frame instead of the rear rack would lower the center of gravity. Throw some leather saddle bags over them. The front basket needs lowering also and something to conceal the motor. I got flat black spray paint but am starting to like the red. Need stealth though.

For winter when there is ice and black ice front wheel drive will be treacherous. My advice would be take it easy on the throttle. I have a potentiometer. On bad roads a very low setting will enable a great pedal assist mode leaving control mainly to the rear wheels the front wheels just making it easier. Obviously studded snow tires would greatly increase traction and I am looking for some. Got to hook up my controller now. It is almost 3 AM. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Full screen recommended!
[youtube]7OArrpkiRQY[/youtube]
 
It was a joke not intended to be taken serious so I do apologize if someone took offence. It was quite awhile ago. Not sure why it is being brought up now. I do intend on moving but not until spring as there is excellent heat and I need time to find a place I really want to be.

As far as the bike I simply wont ride it if it is really slippery out. I will wait until the roads are plowed and salted after a storm. With a basket I can stock up on groceries when the weather is good. Also now that I am officially disabled I qualify for free medical transportation for doctors appointments.

The bike has a brand new controller and motor and will have six new SLAs to get me around. I agree on getting more LIPOs but there is no good deal on 5s LIPO. Also I already have four new SLAs so I am ordering two more right now for six total which will give me 36V @ 20Ah and 25mph at 1C discharge. Also Doug is getting brand new brake lines as we speak and both front and rear brakes will be fully functional and the bike up and running with a speedo. tomorrow or Saturday. I will try a youtube video again but with the home PC. as slow as it is with the hot spot and some viruses and browser hijackers it might be awhile but it will happen.

I don't give up easily. A lot of people would have given up on a 20" build way back when the first Unite motor got broken. I have took short breaks to keep my sanity but have succeeded several times in getting it running however failed to keep it running for any length of time. Now I think I finally have it really close to perfect. I have to order the last two SLAs I may ever order. I will start ordering LIPO starting in January. Every month I will order at least two until I have about 100 miles of range.

Also before I forget I was wondering why nobody had any comment on why that variable controller runs so terrible. I hope I did not throw away the package it came in. I was going to try to return on it for a refund. I think the information is still in my e mail. What should I do? That is almost $40 I lost on that. That could almost buy two of those 4s LIPO packs Dan posted. Could I please get some advice. If I cant send it back then what should I do with it? Could it be taken apart and fixed? Who would fix it? I just ordered the last two SLAs. Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. DA I was wondering what the best program would be to clean up my home PC. I need to run a software disk awhile offline to get rid of junk and viruses. I will ask Doug also but would like your opinion. Since the download speed is so slow I have had no luck downloading the free virus software.
 
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