DAND214
10 MW
Merry Christmas everyone.
Dan
Dan
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
latecurtis
100 MW
I have been using the right side more but in certain areas the roads are so horrible I either ride the sidewalks (VERY SLOW) 3 to 5mph or the left side as close to the curb as possible. Most of the time I ride on the right side though. The police around here dont really care and the cars are reckless.
It was raining three nights ago I think and I was walking from Wall-Mart and crossing a small side road. there were almost bumper to bumper cars on the main road (Altamont av.) A real AS_ _ _ _le flew around the corner about 30mph without even looking and I almost got completally ran over. It was the closest I have came to death. It was because someone was in a rush to do Christmas shopping. I almost died so someone could make it to Wall-Mart a few seconds sooner.
I am sure there are situtations where bicycles can be at fault and cause accidents However around here the unsafe way that cars drive usually 20 to 30mph over the limit, run red lights and even drive at night with no headlights. I would have to say that 80% or more fatal accidents involving bicycles, electric or not is the fault of a reckless or careless car or large motor vechicle operator.
The only way an e bike could cause a person in a car serious injury or death is if they swerve to avoid a bicycle and hit another vechicle. That could just as easilly be caused by a pedestrain or a cat, dog or wild animal. I bet animals then people and lastly bicycles are the cause of accidents. That is what I think however down in NY city and other very large cities where people are delivering packages across town on bikes then bike accidents are of a high percentage as they are always in a HURRY!
Obviouslly when people rush around for money or any reason it is a HUGE saftey hazzard 1,000 times more than my little red e bike that I use to get around town at slow speeds usually under 10mph and try very hard to stay out of the way of large motor vehicles.
That said the new build has an exellent front brake. I found the 24" bike awhile walking back from Wall-Mart about a week before almost getting ran over. It was exactlly what I was looking for. The front rim is only slightly bent and can be straightened with a spoke tool. The front brake is PERFECT. the rear wheel however was extreamlly bent and useless. the handelbars totally suck and were loose. The perfect project bike laying on the sidewalk saying "I am 24" and what you are looking for! Please build me and convert me, Take me home now" If the bike could talk that is what it would have said.
I got a 20" wheel on the back with a full cassette and the deraillor from a 20" parts bike. It will have about 10 pedal gears. The main motor will be rear mounted behind the seat and will be a 1580W Ampflow capable of 24 or 36V operation. A small lightweight geared Hub motor about 500 to 700W will go on the front as the largest possible gear ratio on the back is a 72 tooth wheel sprocket and a 10 tooth motor sprocket 8mm. It will be over- geared by 10mph according to calculater for 45mph as power limitations state 35mph is the highest possible speed. I believe that by enguaging the front motor for speeds of up to 20mph then gradually enguaging the rear motor it should see at least 40mph. I could be wrong but we will find out. We hit 100 pages now on Christmas day 2015. Thanks. Post when you can.
Happy holidays. LC. out.
It was raining three nights ago I think and I was walking from Wall-Mart and crossing a small side road. there were almost bumper to bumper cars on the main road (Altamont av.) A real AS_ _ _ _le flew around the corner about 30mph without even looking and I almost got completally ran over. It was the closest I have came to death. It was because someone was in a rush to do Christmas shopping. I almost died so someone could make it to Wall-Mart a few seconds sooner.
I am sure there are situtations where bicycles can be at fault and cause accidents However around here the unsafe way that cars drive usually 20 to 30mph over the limit, run red lights and even drive at night with no headlights. I would have to say that 80% or more fatal accidents involving bicycles, electric or not is the fault of a reckless or careless car or large motor vechicle operator.
The only way an e bike could cause a person in a car serious injury or death is if they swerve to avoid a bicycle and hit another vechicle. That could just as easilly be caused by a pedestrain or a cat, dog or wild animal. I bet animals then people and lastly bicycles are the cause of accidents. That is what I think however down in NY city and other very large cities where people are delivering packages across town on bikes then bike accidents are of a high percentage as they are always in a HURRY!
Obviouslly when people rush around for money or any reason it is a HUGE saftey hazzard 1,000 times more than my little red e bike that I use to get around town at slow speeds usually under 10mph and try very hard to stay out of the way of large motor vehicles.
That said the new build has an exellent front brake. I found the 24" bike awhile walking back from Wall-Mart about a week before almost getting ran over. It was exactlly what I was looking for. The front rim is only slightly bent and can be straightened with a spoke tool. The front brake is PERFECT. the rear wheel however was extreamlly bent and useless. the handelbars totally suck and were loose. The perfect project bike laying on the sidewalk saying "I am 24" and what you are looking for! Please build me and convert me, Take me home now" If the bike could talk that is what it would have said.
I got a 20" wheel on the back with a full cassette and the deraillor from a 20" parts bike. It will have about 10 pedal gears. The main motor will be rear mounted behind the seat and will be a 1580W Ampflow capable of 24 or 36V operation. A small lightweight geared Hub motor about 500 to 700W will go on the front as the largest possible gear ratio on the back is a 72 tooth wheel sprocket and a 10 tooth motor sprocket 8mm. It will be over- geared by 10mph according to calculater for 45mph as power limitations state 35mph is the highest possible speed. I believe that by enguaging the front motor for speeds of up to 20mph then gradually enguaging the rear motor it should see at least 40mph. I could be wrong but we will find out. We hit 100 pages now on Christmas day 2015. Thanks. Post when you can.
Happy holidays. LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Hey LC,
Hope you're having a good holidays. Mine have been good so far, and being Boxing day here, I've finally had a bit of time to get my Electric Bike back on the road (clutch was dodgy - still rideable, but didn't always engage first time).
Back in November, you asked me to put up pics when I did the stealth build. Unfortunately today I found that I couldn't fit the frog case and the rear rack on at the same time. At this point in time I'm not willing to let go of the rear rack, as I use it to carry groceries home. There might be either a change of mind or an alternative way to mount it later, but that's the update for now.
I also switched to a 201rpm motor instead of a 328. I wasn't hitting top speeds with the 328 anyway (Software limiting to 800w until I got some time to test thermal limits), and this has more torque pulling me up hills.
Regarding your double drive motor, have you seen BMS Battery's two motor drive? https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/607-s09pp-72v35a-1kw-torque-simulation-dual-driving-controller-ebike-kit.html
Won't work if one is brushless and one is brushed, but probably wouldn't care if you had a big DD rear to do the high speed gearing, and a small geared front to get the torque to launch.
Hope you're having a good holidays. Mine have been good so far, and being Boxing day here, I've finally had a bit of time to get my Electric Bike back on the road (clutch was dodgy - still rideable, but didn't always engage first time).
Back in November, you asked me to put up pics when I did the stealth build. Unfortunately today I found that I couldn't fit the frog case and the rear rack on at the same time. At this point in time I'm not willing to let go of the rear rack, as I use it to carry groceries home. There might be either a change of mind or an alternative way to mount it later, but that's the update for now.
I also switched to a 201rpm motor instead of a 328. I wasn't hitting top speeds with the 328 anyway (Software limiting to 800w until I got some time to test thermal limits), and this has more torque pulling me up hills.
Regarding your double drive motor, have you seen BMS Battery's two motor drive? https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/607-s09pp-72v35a-1kw-torque-simulation-dual-driving-controller-ebike-kit.html
Won't work if one is brushless and one is brushed, but probably wouldn't care if you had a big DD rear to do the high speed gearing, and a small geared front to get the torque to launch.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. New e zip motor.I have not forgot about the Currie either. My final decision on a motor for it is either the 4.5hp 3,330W AmpFlow or the motor Skalabala got whenever he gets it running.
Either way it will most likley need a gear reduction system and there is plenty of room for one if I do a similar mount as shown in the beginning of this post. However the money to fund such a project is not going to be for awhile and I am not quite ready for 50mph yet. When the time comes I feel the Currie is the strongest heavy duty frame I have and most suitable for 50mph. The 35 to 40mph 24" build must happen first.
I am having second thoughts about the two motors. The 1580W on the back should be enough if I can get a wheel sprocket large enough for 35mph which is proper gearing for that motor. If I did run a small hub motor on the front it would be 350 - 500W and used for low speeds with a pot. The pot. would be set up on the right side of the handelbars like I have with the red bike. I would set it to low speeds under 10mph and enguage the throttle when needed.
The 2,000W controller DA. posted with the built in pot. is not really a good idea. Even though I love using a pot and run one exclusivelly on the little red bike, for high speeds 15 to 35+mph there is no substitute for a thumb throttle.
Most of the time I run the red bike under 10mph and often 3 to 5mph on sidewalks. rarley will I exceed 20mph even when I run 36V@20Ah. However the 24" bike with the 2.1Hp motor will be rode over 20mph more often or whenever possible. A 1,500W brushed controller compatable with a thumb throttle is minimum and the only thing which makes sense for this new build. I have searched quite a bit for one and just dont see it. Any links will be appreciated.
1, A custom spoke sprocket approx. 110 tooth for a #415 chain.
2. A 36V 1500 or 2000W brush controller for a thumb throttle. (variable not neccessary if I run a second 24V front motor)
3. A 11 tooth #410 or 415 motor sprocket that will fit on the AmpFlow motor. ( I have no clue what type of motor sprocket will fit on the motor shaft)
A 100 - 110 tooth for 35 to 37mph for #415 - 11T motor sprocket. For an 8mm 10T motor sprocket a 90 to 100T spoke sprocket will work. I wont use #25 for anything over 750W or 1Hp. I am not sure anout #35 or other sizes but unless the tensile strength rating is double that of #25 it is not an option. If I do run a hub motor on the front then the rear motor will be geared for 40mph instead of 35mph.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-20-110V-Brush-Motor-Driver-Speed-Controller-2000W-Max-MACH3-PLC-USBCNC-/381235092885?hash=item58c361dd95:g:nUcAAOSwBahVN6cS
it has three wires going to a pot. Should work for a 36V thumb throttle. Not crazy about the price though.
Saftey shows two pots. being used if I cant find a better controller. Note the kill switch for the battery is an emergencey saftey switch which will shut off the positive power going to both controllers from two sets of batteries. It will need to be heavy duty. The throttle kill switch will be the same desighn as it will cut power to both controllers also but will only need to be about 5V.
I really want to simplify this build and use just one motor on the back but if I cant find the right sprocket for 35mph and if the sensitivity of the 2killowatt controller with the built in pot is not capable of low speed settings like the current set up on the red bike then I will need both motors and this elaborite set up.
If anyone has any answers to any of these questions please post. Thanks again.
LC. out.
DAND214
10 MW
Questions, WHY?
With all of that wiring I sure hope you use some good gloves. Get caught in the rain with all that pots, switches and throttle, wow what a great feeling it will be. Your afraid of 22v LiPo dry what will happen when it gets wet with all that rats nest on the bars?
Sunder did it right for you with the front hub, that was the safest easiest setup YOU will ever have. Yeah you don't like it because it's not fast enough or too heavy. You are a big guy grow some stones and get back to the GYM and get strong again. You don't need to press 300lbs but at least in good shape. Other thing that might help is, do it SOBER!
You are wasting your time/money with these foolish builds, slow down get a deceint rear hub with a programmable controller that has a 3 speed switch. Then you won't need a pot to turn but maybe to ????
DA has tried to calm you down as much as he can. Not to mention others.
You can get a hub setup pretty cheap these days http://lunacycle.com/hub-motor-kits/ebike-kit-1000-watt-waterproof-connectors-hub-motor-conversion/ Get 3 6s20AH multistars set it up for 66.6v and have some tickets!
I just think you are just wasting y7our money and time with these crazy builds.
This mile long post is getting out of hand and is hard to find anything without a long search. Don't want you to stop dreaming but I think you do need to slow down, not just speed but what you THINK you want to do.
I rtead this forum everyday and everday I learn something. It might not be what I was looking for but will bw useful in the future. So read what all the rest are doing and get so help from it. There is so much information out there that I don't quit don't understand but then I get a chance to learn more.
ES is a forum to post and ask for help but you can't expect everyone to find all your needed answers/links.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
Wish I could. Heart doctor told me not to lift over 50lbs as I could blow out my heart valve. Thats why I stopped. Also I could lose my disability if social security thinks I am healthy enough to work out. However if I thought it would not kill me I would go back to the gym anyway. The truth is I really dont know if I should listen to the doctor or not so I am playing it safe. I am scared to death of surgery.
Also as I stated I would rather just use a single motor on the back for the 1580W AmpFlow motor and use a controller with a thumb throttle. The problem is finding a 1500W or 2killowatt controller I can hook a thumb throttle up to. Also finding a wheel sprocket large enough to gear the 5700rpm motor for 35mph. Also what type of motor sprocket goes on AmpFlow motors?
i already have a hub motor and am not interested in building a second one. I simply want to build a 35mph bike with the 2.1Hp motor on the back. Please let me know if there is a controller and wheel sprocket out there which will make this possible as I want the build to be simple instead of most difficult. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
I'm just surprised you're insistent on using brushed motors and chains, both of which are known to be less efficient/reliable than brushless direct drive motors.
There are other advantages of chain driven, like variable gearing, but it doesn't seem like you're using those features anyway. Have you fallen victim to the sunk cost fallacy?
There are other advantages of chain driven, like variable gearing, but it doesn't seem like you're using those features anyway. Have you fallen victim to the sunk cost fallacy?
latecurtis
100 MW
Good point but dont know what sunk cost fallacy is.
It sucks when you try to sleep and cant. My mother is picking me up at 11AM to see my son after about 5 years for lunch and I took shower and shaved and tried to sleep without drinking even one beer and it is not goung to happen. I got to at least drink one or two or I will still be tossing and turnibg after dawn which is about three hours away.
As I posted earlier I am here to learn and dont really need to build any more e bikes. The Shwinn with the front kit runs flawlessley as most of you told me it would. The LIPO packs run great with it and besides it being big and cumbersome on the stairs I have no complaints. The Currie also ran great when I built it and after a lot of trouble, time and trying different things the little red bike runs pretty good now also.
As I stated earlier on on the last page I think if I live long enough I am returning to college for electrical technology and finishing my degree and want to specialize in DC motor and battery technology and play at least a small part in the EV revolution. I like building e bikes because I simply like doing it. I am glad you brought that up as I really want to learn variable gearing and gear reduction. I mentioned that the Currie would be my first gear reduction project but if there is a way to do it with this 24" build and if there is a gearbox of some sort I could do then I should. I just dont have a clue and really need to research it.
I really doubt I will find a 110T spoke sprocket so I could start with gear reduction but am not sure what will work. I will start researching it now. Any help will be appreciated. Would some sort of gearbox get the 2.1Hp motor up to 40mph or would it just make it easier going up hills. Either way I would like to do it. Please let me know. Thanks and post when you can.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Sunk cost fallacy is where you send good money after bad in the hope that it's a better outcome. Let's say you spend $500 on a chain based eBike. It breaks or needs maintenance. It's $100 to fix it now, or $500 to change to a hub based eBike. Easy choice, right: spend the $100. But what if you needed to spend $100 every 3 months to do repairs? In no time flat, you'd have spent 5 x $100 repairs, the same money that you would need to build a proper, reliable bike.
I can't draw a direct parallel with your eBikes, but definitely can with the SLAs. At any point, in the long run, it would have been cheaper to bite the bullet, spend up big, and get LiPos. But at every stage, it was cheaper to just buy a couple extra to boost the range or the speed. You've spent (sunk) the cost into the first batch of SLAs, and so it always seems cheaper in the short run to get more, but it's actually cheaper in the long run to throw out what you have and start it again (hence the fallacy).
latecurtis said:
I would be really impressed if you could get a successful variable geared drive going. Either deraileur or internal hub based. That would be an achievement, and a reason to use a chain based drive. Unfortunately, I probably don't have the experience to help you. Perhaps someone else here could? I suspect the first step would be to mount the motor in frame or under the bottom bracket in order to get a similar chain line to stock. A deraileur won't shift from a chain line too different from what it was designed to do, though an internally geared hub probably doesn't care.
Let me know if you get any ideas about how you can do it.
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 1Midrive? If I can order a kit and install it and use it with an AmpFlow or even an RC Hobby King motor that would be cool. Cost and ease of installation are the main issues.
I have seen things like this before but have always shied away from these concepts as I have got no help (hands on). All the advice on earth is no substitute for a hands on learning experience however a high quality HD video of a kit being slowly assembled from box to bike would help.
I cant stream video with the slow hot spot but can download video but at about 10 to 12 kbs which is slower than many dial up speeds. I dont really get that as the connection speed says 72mps on the connection status but actual download speed is 12kbs max. A half hour 300 or 400mb video wont usually download at all. Mabye I could download it at the library to a flash drive.
I will need a cheap budjet kit to start (with all the parts) Very frustrating when you have to order parts over and over or get wrong parts. That and a really clear easy to follow video. I will continue to look at this stuff but even links to pages take quite awhile to open up. It is disgusting but better than having no internet at home at all. Please let me know. As always any links will be appreciated. thanks.
LC. out.
PS. downloading a very interesting friction drive video from you tube. I like this guys style will post the link soon. Not sure how efficient it is but am curious.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Yup. There are several commercially available mid-drive kits, which are quite high quality. Some are over 3kw, but look as expensive as hell, and I bet you must chew through chains as often as you change your underwear.
I was thinking since you've already got yours effectively working, it would be reasonably easy to remount the motor in a mid-drive like location, then figure out how to get it working with a deraileur or a IGH.
latecurtis
100 MW
you mean the red bike. I have not built the 24" bike yet. Also I am downloading a very interesting friction drive video and it is actually 15kbs. About half way done. I like the guys style and you will see why. Should have the link in a minute.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1krGMwaGLo
will be watching it in a couple minutes.
test drive is next. I am not getting sound though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1krGMwaGLo
will be watching it in a couple minutes.
test drive is next. I am not getting sound though.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Wow, that kit looked about 8-10 times bigger than it needed to be.
This looks more like what I think of when I think friction drives:
latecurtis
100 MW
sweet. the test run for that is only 9kbs and about 40min away. you can get it faster if you have faster internet. What will that little unit you posted do?
may be able to put a second little motor on the front fork too in your picture. Is that an RC motor as it looks small? If an RC motor from Hobby King would work good their prices are low. I would just need to know what KV I would need and what top speed would be reasonable for the motor. sprocket calculater would be no help obviouslly.
Wonder if I could build a friction drive for 50mph cheaper than getting a 4.5Hp AmpFlow motor?
Actually I will be testing the red bike for top speed with the unite motor and if there is any problems with the chain at 25mph like it getting loose or comming off I will convert it to friction drive. If it works well I will just leave it alone as I want to move on to the 24" build I am contemplating now. If it is not broke dont fix it. it is a good rule to follow.
basically even though there is a lot of weight in the front of that red bike it is set up exactlly like the blue Dimond Back was with the chopped up fork and crash test proven to work as I hit that huge pothole/manhole at about 20mph and 5 - 24oz cans of beer came out of the front basket one spewing suds all over the road. The only reason I maintained control and not flip over the front was the heavy SLAs in the back. There were only three. With six 10Ah SLAs it keeps a 20" bike stable. It is safer than you would imagine but take the weight from the back it is a sure death trap.
Also if you take the weight from the front by moving the motor for a mid drive there will be too much weight in the back and the front wheel may come up when hitting a small curb or obstruction causing it to flip backwards. I think it is good as long as the chain stays on tight. It is safer than it appears if driven with caution. I am still taking pictures of the manhole/pothole from hell. Also that broke section of road where I really got banged up with the Schwinn last summer. I like to prove everything I say. I dont bullshit a lot and try to be honest.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0-Zf7EV1nI
Watched the video and was impressed. However the red bike I built is about 10mph faster on the flat if the chain stays on and wont need pedal assist on those hills. see p3 & p4 bottom part of page 89 on this post. I opened the videos side by side and compared his with real player and p4 with media player. I win! I will still post a youtube video sometime where I can open up the pot a little longer.
I would guess his speed on flat at about 18mph and my video at 25mph however mine was a short run. It had a little more. I still like this guys style though as it reminds me of me. I can only imagine what the 3380W AmpFlow motor would do in a similar setup
Thanks.
LC. out.
may be able to put a second little motor on the front fork too in your picture. Is that an RC motor as it looks small? If an RC motor from Hobby King would work good their prices are low. I would just need to know what KV I would need and what top speed would be reasonable for the motor. sprocket calculater would be no help obviouslly.
Wonder if I could build a friction drive for 50mph cheaper than getting a 4.5Hp AmpFlow motor?
Actually I will be testing the red bike for top speed with the unite motor and if there is any problems with the chain at 25mph like it getting loose or comming off I will convert it to friction drive. If it works well I will just leave it alone as I want to move on to the 24" build I am contemplating now. If it is not broke dont fix it. it is a good rule to follow.
basically even though there is a lot of weight in the front of that red bike it is set up exactlly like the blue Dimond Back was with the chopped up fork and crash test proven to work as I hit that huge pothole/manhole at about 20mph and 5 - 24oz cans of beer came out of the front basket one spewing suds all over the road. The only reason I maintained control and not flip over the front was the heavy SLAs in the back. There were only three. With six 10Ah SLAs it keeps a 20" bike stable. It is safer than you would imagine but take the weight from the back it is a sure death trap.
Also if you take the weight from the front by moving the motor for a mid drive there will be too much weight in the back and the front wheel may come up when hitting a small curb or obstruction causing it to flip backwards. I think it is good as long as the chain stays on tight. It is safer than it appears if driven with caution. I am still taking pictures of the manhole/pothole from hell. Also that broke section of road where I really got banged up with the Schwinn last summer. I like to prove everything I say. I dont bullshit a lot and try to be honest.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0-Zf7EV1nI
Watched the video and was impressed. However the red bike I built is about 10mph faster on the flat if the chain stays on and wont need pedal assist on those hills. see p3 & p4 bottom part of page 89 on this post. I opened the videos side by side and compared his with real player and p4 with media player. I win! I will still post a youtube video sometime where I can open up the pot a little longer.
I would guess his speed on flat at about 18mph and my video at 25mph however mine was a short run. It had a little more. I still like this guys style though as it reminds me of me. I can only imagine what the 3380W AmpFlow motor would do in a similar setup
Thanks.LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
18mph isnt too bad for a friction drive, but I doubt you'd be able to get it to go much faster than that. Friction drives have limited power and speed because too powerful and you break friction and just spin/destroy the tyre. I'd say 50mph is out of the realm of possibility.
Direct drive hub motor would definitely be the cheapest way to get to 50mph. The most reliable too. You'd have little choice about weight distribution though. Two wheel drive and triangle battery?
Direct drive hub motor would definitely be the cheapest way to get to 50mph. The most reliable too. You'd have little choice about weight distribution though. Two wheel drive and triangle battery?
latecurtis
100 MW
I have some very unique ideas for an awsome triangle case and sure I posted a couple diagrams for them but am waiting for that NYS law DA. posted for that as I want to be sure it is legal as baskets front and back are very common around here but a triangle case is a dead give away it is not a normal bike. I hope DA keeps me posted on the passing of the new law defining e bikes.
Was tired after comming back from lunch. Awsome pizza though. laid down awhile. Am up now. research to do. Lots of rain and cold and snow on the way. Bad weather for e biking. Plenty of time for research and building though. Got to go to Dougs and see how he made out with the 24" bike.
Yes I know I am bad. I dont do everything and claim I built it. However I always do the electric conversion since the original Currie upgrade when Hubert installed the 36V controller and batteries on the triangle. It had the original 450W Currie motor. I installed the MY1020 motor and reinstalled everything else after that.
All the other builds and experiments since then have been 90% me doing the conversions. Doug helps with normal bike stuff like brakes, pedal chains, tires and tubes. I do all the controller wiring, wheel sprockets and motor mounting. I got a little help with the chain a few times expecially the small #25 but did the larger #410 chain myself. My chain splitter broke though and I have to get a new one. I hope that progress has been made on the 24" bike. The only definite decision I have made so far is it will be a rear mount behind the seat and the 20" wheel with a custom spoke sprocket with a casette on the other side is the plan.
The front brake works very well so I wont need to change anything there. I am not sure about gear reduction or what motor I will be using. I kind of wanted to do gear reduction with the Currie below where I mounted the motor originnally. Also for a friction drive like Sunder posted I think that little 18" Razor bike I posted awhile back would be perfect for that. 15 to 18mph is the fastest that little thing should go anyway. A small setup with Lipo just like in Sunders picture would be perfect. I think I may wait on the 24" build until I can afford 4.5Hp AmpFlow and the Currie can get the 18killowatt Alienpower motor.
In fact there is nothing written in stone as to a timeline as what should happen first. The Currie with gear reduction will be most complicated and expensive though. I may build the little Razor bike first with a cheap Hobby King RC motor setup with a couple of cheap 5.0 Lipo packs in a pouch. I would really like to know what power and KV I would need to spin the 18" wheel for a friction drive. It would be a neat little bike for non cargo transportation. Please let me know. Sprocket calculater wont help me there. All I need is a good link for the wheel that goes on the motor, a few more pictures so I can get a plan going and the power and KV of the motor and it should not be that difficult to make happen.
Thanks and post when you can. Thanks.
LC. out.
Was tired after comming back from lunch. Awsome pizza though. laid down awhile. Am up now. research to do. Lots of rain and cold and snow on the way. Bad weather for e biking. Plenty of time for research and building though. Got to go to Dougs and see how he made out with the 24" bike.
Yes I know I am bad. I dont do everything and claim I built it. However I always do the electric conversion since the original Currie upgrade when Hubert installed the 36V controller and batteries on the triangle. It had the original 450W Currie motor. I installed the MY1020 motor and reinstalled everything else after that.
All the other builds and experiments since then have been 90% me doing the conversions. Doug helps with normal bike stuff like brakes, pedal chains, tires and tubes. I do all the controller wiring, wheel sprockets and motor mounting. I got a little help with the chain a few times expecially the small #25 but did the larger #410 chain myself. My chain splitter broke though and I have to get a new one. I hope that progress has been made on the 24" bike. The only definite decision I have made so far is it will be a rear mount behind the seat and the 20" wheel with a custom spoke sprocket with a casette on the other side is the plan.
The front brake works very well so I wont need to change anything there. I am not sure about gear reduction or what motor I will be using. I kind of wanted to do gear reduction with the Currie below where I mounted the motor originnally. Also for a friction drive like Sunder posted I think that little 18" Razor bike I posted awhile back would be perfect for that. 15 to 18mph is the fastest that little thing should go anyway. A small setup with Lipo just like in Sunders picture would be perfect. I think I may wait on the 24" build until I can afford 4.5Hp AmpFlow and the Currie can get the 18killowatt Alienpower motor.
In fact there is nothing written in stone as to a timeline as what should happen first. The Currie with gear reduction will be most complicated and expensive though. I may build the little Razor bike first with a cheap Hobby King RC motor setup with a couple of cheap 5.0 Lipo packs in a pouch. I would really like to know what power and KV I would need to spin the 18" wheel for a friction drive. It would be a neat little bike for non cargo transportation. Please let me know. Sprocket calculater wont help me there. All I need is a good link for the wheel that goes on the motor, a few more pictures so I can get a plan going and the power and KV of the motor and it should not be that difficult to make happen.
Thanks and post when you can. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Cheap Chinese Controller!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Can you believe another junk controller!! I was going downtown with the red bike. It ran a few trips mabye 10 miles or so all togeather and now it is shot!
I havent touched the bike since I rode it last and made sure the pot. was in the off posistion and the kill switch off and hit the battery switch in the back and got a little puff of smoke from the controller. This is ridecelous!!
Please someone tell me why I am having such terrible luck with controllers. I know I should have wired a fuse in but the first 36V controller which caught on fire lasted two years without one and would still be working if I did not take it out of the metal case and zip tie it upside down in that plastic coffee can.
I still made my appointment with the Schwinn and got a pic. of that manhole/pothole from hell. It is actually deeper than it looks in the pic. as the pic was taken looking down on it. I would say close to three inches if I were to guess. I cant believe the chopped up fork that was on the Dimond Back did not snap off at 20mph. That was the only time I ran the new SLAs that fast and it was because of that defective variable controller as it would not run at low speeds without cutting out or making a terrible grinding noise in the motor. I unhooked it and have not used it since.
I will order that cheap varaible controller with the pot. built in, however I would like to know what a proper (as DA, puts it) controller is. Hopefully it is manufactured in the USA and not China. I would like a link for a 24, 36 and 48V version of a good controller that has been proven to work by fellow ES members.
I am willing to give up on the pot. if I have to to get a decent controller if the one with the built in pot. dont work either. I am willing to spend $40 or $50 if I have to but not without at least a one year warrenty and a money back guarentee.
I could not send the burnt one back for a refund even if there was one as I had to cut the plugs off the wires to make it work. When I do order a good one I will need the correct plugs to plug it in so I dont have to cut any plugs off and void the warrenty. I was going to buy a solder kit at Wall-Mart for under $11+ tax and was talking to an electrician about how to solder correctly and he told me I would need flux. It did not come with the kit, only an extra tip and some solder.
I went to the plumbing section and got a package with solder and flux I thought was $2.99 but it rang up over $12 and got pissed and did not buy anything except worms for the eels. I will still need to get what I need to solder and when I order a good controller will need plugs for it. Where would I order them. I will make sure I wire a fuse. I remember DA. said slow blow I think. I really need to know what Amps I will need for 24V, 36V and 48V as I am not sure which controller I will get and with all the projects I have planned I may be getting one of each anyway.
At this point I may take DAs advice and go 24V for the red bike if it will climb up hills. With 6 SLAs I would get 30Ah if I hooked all of them up. Today however The Schwinn did not die comming home from downtown running 36V@10Ah. That must have happened because the 10Ah SLAs were new as when I measured them before they were about 12.67 to 12.69V and they were 12.65 to 12.67V today and the low cutt off voltage did not happen.
At 36V and 10Ah I keep speed around 8 to 10mph max and even less most of the time with some pedal assist on hills but not much. As soon as I got home I put them on parallel charge with the Megacharger and ran the other three fresh SLAs to the bank to get money and put $40 in my account to order the controller with the built in pot. which I am doing now. When I got back about 2 hours later I simply took the three SLAs that were parallel charging at 3A and put them on the three stage 1.8A 12V charger and put the other three on the Mega charger.
My charging system is awsome and I am really taking good care of the SLAs now. I dont discharge them over 1C ever and never let them sit for any length of time after running. After another 10 runs or so I will start desulfating them overnight after each charge. I also need to run the LIPO packs as it has been at least two weeks since I did. I store them about 3.8V per cell and charge them to 4.1V the night before running them.
I ordered the cheap one with the built in pot. for $13 DA posted however there were no shipping options and free shipping from China will take to the end of January. Jan 29th is maximum ETA. and is about right as the defective variable one took over three weeks to get here! I would not have done so but read the specs. on it and was impressed. However am looking to order a GOOD/PROPER/RECCOMENDED one with two day shipping A.S.A.P.
I will find a complete soldering kit with flux somewhere even if I have to go to Home Depot or Radio Shack. Please let me know about GOOD RELIABLE controllers made in the USA. and the plugs I will need. Please post when you can. Thanks.
What is this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Tekin-G11-Brushed-Electronic-Speed-Control-TT1040-NIB-/291050197560?hash=item43c3f19238:g:-vIAAOxydlFSxxYm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-Bicycle-Brush-Speed-Controller-Box-36V-800W-For-Electric-Scooter-A4-/141742478322?hash=item21008293f2:g:RUwAAOSwDNdVyciO&vxp=mtr
looks exactly like what burned out. I would like to know if a fuse would have prevented it from happening or would it still have burned out.
There is a lot of smart people here on ES. I wonder if anyone knows how to fix a controller. I took Circuits1 and 2 in college but forgot most of it. There should be a way to solder in a diode, capaciter, transister or resister. ect.
I remember learning how to find the bad component but forgot how to do it. Someone really smart could fix the variable one as when I talked to the electrician who fxes plumbing and heating he said it is most likley a factory defect. Someone soldered something wrong. The same thing could be true with the one that burned out today. It could also be a bad capacitor or resister. It saw 36V and poof. I wish I could relearn what I learned 20 years ago. I got to get my ass back to school.
Sincerelly LC. out.
Skalabala
1 kW
Stop spending money on toys and get the real stuff, even if you have to eat African style for a few months 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KIT-ELECTRI...528875?hash=item2c980cae2b:g:bLwAAOSwv0tVCAcn
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KIT-ELECTRI...528875?hash=item2c980cae2b:g:bLwAAOSwv0tVCAcn
DrkAngel
1 GW
Well, you face several problems:
The only way to get connectors that fit, without having to change any connectors ... is to buy a complete kit that includes mastched motor, controller, battery, throttle etc.
How can you ask for advice on one without showing the connectors you need?
You need to add the proper connectors to the motor, battery etc. if you do not want to modify the controller connectors.
Even if there is a controller "Made in the USA" it would be made from foreign components.
I have had excellent success with the cheap YiYun controllers I recommended ... that you, apparently, did not get.
Most any controller will be destroyed if battery hooked up reversed!
Any controller will likely have a void warranty if destroyed-damaged from improper installation.
Learn how to solder and use heat shrink tubing ...
. ☠ . Twisted together wire connections with electric tape insulation is an obvious failure waiting to happen! . ☠ .
Likely you pulled or stretched a connection and shorted some wires, burning out the controller ...
You should really learn some basic essential skills ...
Learn to walk before trying to run.
Last time ... a $1 fuse can save you hundreds of dollars of heartache!!!
Repairing a cheap controller is not worth the effort!
Being cheap, they are a disposable item.
Not worth the time or effort to repair.
Take to an expert and pay him $50 to repair an $18 controller?
or ...
Alcohol kills brain cells!
Maybe it ate away that portion of your brain?
The only way to get connectors that fit, without having to change any connectors ... is to buy a complete kit that includes mastched motor, controller, battery, throttle etc.
How can you ask for advice on one without showing the connectors you need?
You need to add the proper connectors to the motor, battery etc. if you do not want to modify the controller connectors.
Even if there is a controller "Made in the USA" it would be made from foreign components.
I have had excellent success with the cheap YiYun controllers I recommended ... that you, apparently, did not get.
Most any controller will be destroyed if battery hooked up reversed!
Any controller will likely have a void warranty if destroyed-damaged from improper installation.
Learn how to solder and use heat shrink tubing ...
. ☠ . Twisted together wire connections with electric tape insulation is an obvious failure waiting to happen! . ☠ .
Likely you pulled or stretched a connection and shorted some wires, burning out the controller ...
You should really learn some basic essential skills ...
Learn to walk before trying to run.
- read description!
- We would have to physically inspect all your circuits to determine the cause of failure. But a fuse is a minimal-essential basic protection that should never be gone without ... I personally tried to drill that fact into your head on a continual basis ... but, of course, you would not listen!
Last time ... a $1 fuse can save you hundreds of dollars of heartache!!!
Repairing a cheap controller is not worth the effort!
Being cheap, they are a disposable item.
Not worth the time or effort to repair.
Take to an expert and pay him $50 to repair an $18 controller?
Guess you never "learned" in the first place ... ?
or ...
Alcohol kills brain cells!
Maybe it ate away that portion of your brain?
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers36volt.html#brushedmotor
CT-660B9 36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller
Designed for 36 Volt motors up to 1000 Watts. Maximum current 40 Amps. Under Voltage protection 31.5 Volts. Current limiting feature prevents controller and motor damage due to over-current conditions. Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life. Uses standard 3-wire variable speed hall-effect throttle. Fits many common electric scooter and bicycle models.
Item # SPD-CT660B9
Wiring Directions $54.95
Not sure if the cheap junk was hall effect ??? If it wont do a pot. A thumb is ok. Please let me know. Will need the Connectors. Got to check for a warrenty. Sick of getting ripped off Slow burn right? How many amps. 21? 750 / 36 = 20.83333333333333. or higher.
Will the radio shack have the solder stuff I need and connectors or do I need to order online?
CT-660B9 36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller
Designed for 36 Volt motors up to 1000 Watts. Maximum current 40 Amps. Under Voltage protection 31.5 Volts. Current limiting feature prevents controller and motor damage due to over-current conditions. Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life. Uses standard 3-wire variable speed hall-effect throttle. Fits many common electric scooter and bicycle models.
Item # SPD-CT660B9
Wiring Directions $54.95
Not sure if the cheap junk was hall effect ??? If it wont do a pot. A thumb is ok. Please let me know. Will need the Connectors. Got to check for a warrenty. Sick of getting ripped off
Slow burn right? How many amps. 21? 750 / 36 = 20.83333333333333. or higher.Will the radio shack have the solder stuff I need and connectors or do I need to order online?
Skalabala
1 kW
I personally do not care about connectors. If you really need them then just go to your local place like digikey and buy your own connectors/plugs and fit them
latecurtis
100 MW
i dont either but if you cut anything you buy then warrentey is void. That variable brushed controller had no connectors. Got robbed as I paid new price for it.
sick of buying garbage!. Need quality components.
I get what DA is saying about fuse. However I dont get why the old 36V controller lasted two years and got hooked up about 20 different times without one before failing and this one only went about 10 miles?
sick of buying garbage!. Need quality components.
I get what DA is saying about fuse. However I dont get why the old 36V controller lasted two years and got hooked up about 20 different times without one before failing and this one only went about 10 miles?
DrkAngel
1 GW
Please use a little common sense ... or sober up.latecurtis said:http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers36volt.html#brushedmotor
CT-660B9 36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller
Designed for 36 Volt motors up to 1000 Watts. Maximum current 40 Amps. Under Voltage protection 31.5 Volts. Current limiting feature prevents controller and motor damage due to over-current conditions. Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life. Uses standard 3-wire variable speed hall-effect throttle. Fits many common electric scooter and bicycle models.
Item # SPD-CT660B9
Wiring Directions $54.95
Not sure if the cheap junk was hall effect ??? If it wont do a pot. A thumb is ok. Please let me know. Will need the Connectors. Got to check for a warrenty. Sick of getting ripped off
Will the radio shack have the solder stuff I need and connectors or do I need to order online?
Using a 21Amp fuse with a 40Amp controller will be pretty good protection ...
but you will have to replace fuse if you ever turn throttle more than half way!
latecurtis
100 MW
goona be hard to explain why one controller did not need a fuse and the other does. Both made in China. Go figure.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Every electrical circuit "needs" a fuse!
What are you talking about?
I was being derisive of your reasoning that a 21Amp fuse was proper for protecting a 40Amp circuit.
21Amp fuse would likely blow just filling the caps ... before even starting to use controller.
You want a fuse (slow blow fuse) of higher amperage than normal operating current!
Fuse is to protect against abnormal current drain!
What are you talking about?
I was being derisive of your reasoning that a 21Amp fuse was proper for protecting a 40Amp circuit.
21Amp fuse would likely blow just filling the caps ... before even starting to use controller.
You want a fuse (slow blow fuse) of higher amperage than normal operating current!
Fuse is to protect against abnormal current drain!
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