DAND214
10 MW
latecurtis said:
ALL MADE IN CHINA!
Dan
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
ALL MADE IN CHINA!
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
latecurtis said:
Human error!latecurtis said:
DrkAngel said:
latecurtis
100 MW
I use wire nuts on most connections. The same thing you will find behind AC outlets in your house electricians use. However the switch could have shorted out as I did not solder the terminals but wrapped thin strips of electrical tape around them. I agree 100% that I still need to solder and flux expecially for terminals and to put plugs on wires I will be plugging in to any new controller I get. I doubt the wire nuts are the cause though as I screw them on tight.
I was not lying about taking this seriouslly and going back to college. I will be taking the controller apart to study it to find out the exact part that burned out. Most people would not bother however my major is electronics. I need to finish my degree. I need to start home study. Both the variable and this controller need to be diagnosed and repaired until they are working perfect.
I also have a 60" Mitsubishi TV I paid $3,000 for back in 07. It is high defenition projection. It is light. They dont make them anymore. Cash price was $1500 back then but I rented to own and paid twice as much over 24 months. Wall mart has the LED 60" for about $800. If I can fix mine for under $200 it is worth it. I have the white dot syndrome. Part was $170 about 5 years ago. Hope it is cheaper now.
Lots of snow! Not riding anything for awhile. Got plenty of time for research and study. In most situtations the average person can simply order a cheap controller. However there is always someone who cant afford it or what if there was an end of world scenario like MAD MAX. I am sure he did not order parts off the internet. Being able to fix any circuit board on the spot is knowledge that is priceless. The same thing with DC motors. I need to learn these things.
I was not lying about taking this seriouslly and going back to college. I will be taking the controller apart to study it to find out the exact part that burned out. Most people would not bother however my major is electronics. I need to finish my degree. I need to start home study. Both the variable and this controller need to be diagnosed and repaired until they are working perfect.
I also have a 60" Mitsubishi TV I paid $3,000 for back in 07. It is high defenition projection. It is light. They dont make them anymore. Cash price was $1500 back then but I rented to own and paid twice as much over 24 months. Wall mart has the LED 60" for about $800. If I can fix mine for under $200 it is worth it. I have the white dot syndrome. Part was $170 about 5 years ago. Hope it is cheaper now.
Lots of snow! Not riding anything for awhile. Got plenty of time for research and study. In most situtations the average person can simply order a cheap controller. However there is always someone who cant afford it or what if there was an end of world scenario like MAD MAX. I am sure he did not order parts off the internet. Being able to fix any circuit board on the spot is knowledge that is priceless. The same thing with DC motors. I need to learn these things.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
How often does your house go over pot holes?
latecurtis
100 MW
My friend is sitting here and asked me who the guy is banging his head on the desk :lol: :lol:
You have a point though I will be soldering everything soon. Going to get everything I need thursday payday. 8)
You have a point though I will be soldering everything soon. Going to get everything I need thursday payday. 8)
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
The pictures of the one that caught on fire did not look that bad!!
As soon as it saw 36V. The motor was not even running and the pot was not even turned up. Makes absolutlly no sense. I wish I knew the cause of this. Anyone know about the electronocs of this for a possible cause. Dont see much damage on the other side. I wish I knew how to test the individual components. There is nothing obvious on the other side but mabye someone knows what caused this. I am checking my connections now for a short.
As soon as it saw 36V. The motor was not even running and the pot was not even turned up. Makes absolutlly no sense. I wish I knew the cause of this. Anyone know about the electronocs of this for a possible cause. Dont see much damage on the other side. I wish I knew how to test the individual components. There is nothing obvious on the other side but mabye someone knows what caused this. I am checking my connections now for a short.
latecurtis
100 MW
It is not the battery switch or the wiring. I am going to check the wires going and comming from the pot. now. I will need to solder them when I get a new controller anyway.
latecurtis
100 MW
DrkAngel
1 GW
Looks like a fault in the printed-re-enforced "trace".
Low resolution pictures make diagnosis difficult-sketchy.
If as it appears, I would bridge arced portion with coil of wire and solder.
Add fuse between battery and controller.
Then voltage up using pre-charge resister circuit only.
Yes, you can post better-larger pictures!
Low resolution pictures make diagnosis difficult-sketchy.
If as it appears, I would bridge arced portion with coil of wire and solder.
Add fuse between battery and controller.
Then voltage up using pre-charge resister circuit only.
Yes, you can post better-larger pictures!
latecurtis
100 MW
How? It says 52kb limit??? I have never been able to post anything bigger. My camera takes huge quality pics. i have to go to paint and resize it down to 10 or 15%.
I wish i knew how you post that.
Still dont know what fuse size either. I always thought watts / voltage = Amps. 750W@36V 750 / 36 = 20.8A.
I wish i knew how you post that.
Still dont know what fuse size either. I always thought watts / voltage = Amps. 750W@36V 750 / 36 = 20.8A.
I'd use a 35 - 40A fuse. You want the fuse to blow when something shorts out to prevent fire. Otherwise, you want it to never blow.
I bet that controller smelled bad inside. Most likely something blew other than the trace. You could try soldering some heavy copper wire along the bad trace, then use an ohmmeter to check for shorts. Mainly check across the battery negative to motor negative wires. This should measure like a diode, not a short. Also measure across the main battery pos to neg terminals and see that the reading steadily increases as the caps charge. If the FETs blow, they almost always short.
I bet that controller smelled bad inside. Most likely something blew other than the trace. You could try soldering some heavy copper wire along the bad trace, then use an ohmmeter to check for shorts. Mainly check across the battery negative to motor negative wires. This should measure like a diode, not a short. Also measure across the main battery pos to neg terminals and see that the reading steadily increases as the caps charge. If the FETs blow, they almost always short.
latecurtis
100 MW
Sunder
10 MW
That's half a meg, you're loading up files less than 10% of that.
latecurtis
100 MW
okThat one is 445kb
I must have been thinking 52kb. WOW! 512kb is the limit on video. Hard to believe pics and video are both 512kb.
Still have not been able to post a decent video as you tube takes over 12 hours to upload.
The controller smells burnt like was mentioned but I cant see anything on the circuit side.
1172 by 677 is DAs pic in pixels.
400 by 300 pixels is mine yet it says 445kb. This dont make a bit of sense to me. It is a major pain in the ass to post video or pics on this forum. DA. however seems to be able to do whatever he pleases awhile the rest of us just struggle along. I wish I was that smart.
I am smarter than everyone I know in schenectady however and am understanding the frustration DA. goes thru trying to teach or make me understand. I got in a big argument with my friend about the gear on the unite motor. He said it was too small and I needed a bigger one. I even showed him sprocket calculater and he still stood by his opinion.
He claims to have worked for Northstar Chevorlet and had motorcycles. He says motorcycle motor sprockets are bigger and the wheel sprocket smaller. I told him the smaller the motor sprocket the less the motor has to work up hills. He did not get that. I do. Also he dont understand that Hp as well as rpm determine the size of the motor and wheel sprockets.
I could not get thru to him. He thinks he can go up hills quicker with a bigger motor sprocket. I told him that mabye it would go faster down a hill with a bigger motor sprocket and smaller wheel sprocket but it definatlly wont make it up any hill. I also tried to tell him a motorcycle motor is probably about 50Hp or more and probably over 5,000rpm and my motor is running at 750W and 2,250rpm.
there are a lot of dumb people here in Schenectady. I remember almost getting fired about a year before I did because every employee in the kitchen at the job including management insisted that the alternator starts the car and the battery keeps it running. I said the battery and the starter starts the car and the alternator keeps it running. I had people screaming at me and they hated me when they looked it up on google. It is most frustrating when you are smarter than everyone around you. Hats off to DA. as they say he is a patient man. Thanks. Please post when you can.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Protip: resize to 800x600 and save in jpg format, and its the biggest that will auto display here.
Otherwise, upload to an image sharing site, and link here using the
Otherwise, upload to an image sharing site, and link here using the
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Right and Wrong / true or false.
In a few cases though there is more than 1 correct answer. For example Hubert the electrical engineer who did my original Currie upgrade from 24 to 36V claimed 12 years of college and a degree in electrical enginering. His house looked at least $200,000 and he was in his 60s and lived alone plus he had solar panels on his garage roof and a charging station. He claimed that individual charging of batteries way the best way. His word seemed creditable.
I will stick with parallel charging any day and have great success with it. DA. told me to get a 36V or 48V proper charger. Series charging. However with both parallel and series charging the batteries must be in the same state (number of charging cycles and overall health, life)
Hubert is 100% correct if they are not. That makes all three people right and it is rare but needed to point that out.
Brakes are another example. Doug told me front brakes are not even legal in some BMX events. My friend Eric + myself both flipped over handelbars early on in life and had no use for them. The fact that 70% or more stopping power is front brakes is undisputed. I agree 100% and wont doubt the facts.
However (I love that word!) When going down a really steep hill and trying to maintain a sane speed or when simply wanting to slow down gradually front brakes dont cut the mustard. They are what they are and can stop the bike really quick if properly tuned (sometimes too quick). Good for emergencey stops. Someone pulls out or steps in front of you!!
The thing is though you want some weight in the back to keep the back wheel on the ground when you do that! Head over heels is not fun in case you have not experienced that or were trained for it. I guess it can be fun but it happened many years ago but did not forget it. The fact I have 30+ pounds of SLAs in the rear of the 20" bike makes it safe for aggressive front stopping power. However running front brakes solo I really have to question that.
The little red bike is better than I got credit for and probably safer than a rear wheel but only on dry roads. Slippery roads it would be 100% useless and a saftey hazzard to say the least. Winter is here. I must build a rear wheel drive and get studded snow tires. All wheel drive would be even better. Both 280W Razor motors front and rear with studded wide tires would work.
The red bike is officially down for awhile. It is on time out. I got to build a winter beater. It is great everyone is still posting. I am going to search for a rear hub motor. I cant fool around anymore with chains,sprockets and shitty controllers. I got to get something working.
The 24" bike has good front brakes and easy to fix rear.
I need a good 24" rear hub motor and will be good to go. I will be searching. Please post any links if possible and thanks for posting. I agree 100% that the hub motor is better. I have to say it because I am honest. It is also much simpler and less things need to be ordered and can go wrong.
Will LC give up totally on going 50+mph and chain driven motors? Not a chance in hell!!!! I am simply throwing in the towl now. Hub motors are the most simple, convinent and effective in almost all situtations. I see it and have to agree. I will be ordering one soon. I would like to get a 20" one for the back of the red bike but cant find one.
It should run about 24V and 500W. I can reinstall the Unite motor on the front at 60V in the spring and it will be pregeared for at least 37mph with the 57T on it now.
Yes I am a genious! Please post a link for a 20" kit if you can. Thanks.
LC. out.
In a few cases though there is more than 1 correct answer. For example Hubert the electrical engineer who did my original Currie upgrade from 24 to 36V claimed 12 years of college and a degree in electrical enginering. His house looked at least $200,000 and he was in his 60s and lived alone plus he had solar panels on his garage roof and a charging station. He claimed that individual charging of batteries way the best way. His word seemed creditable.
I will stick with parallel charging any day and have great success with it. DA. told me to get a 36V or 48V proper charger. Series charging. However with both parallel and series charging the batteries must be in the same state (number of charging cycles and overall health, life)
Hubert is 100% correct if they are not. That makes all three people right and it is rare but needed to point that out.
Brakes are another example. Doug told me front brakes are not even legal in some BMX events. My friend Eric + myself both flipped over handelbars early on in life and had no use for them. The fact that 70% or more stopping power is front brakes is undisputed. I agree 100% and wont doubt the facts.
However (I love that word!) When going down a really steep hill and trying to maintain a sane speed or when simply wanting to slow down gradually front brakes dont cut the mustard. They are what they are and can stop the bike really quick if properly tuned (sometimes too quick). Good for emergencey stops. Someone pulls out or steps in front of you!!
The thing is though you want some weight in the back to keep the back wheel on the ground when you do that! Head over heels is not fun in case you have not experienced that or were trained for it. I guess it can be fun but it happened many years ago but did not forget it. The fact I have 30+ pounds of SLAs in the rear of the 20" bike makes it safe for aggressive front stopping power. However running front brakes solo I really have to question that.
The little red bike is better than I got credit for and probably safer than a rear wheel but only on dry roads. Slippery roads it would be 100% useless and a saftey hazzard to say the least. Winter is here. I must build a rear wheel drive and get studded snow tires. All wheel drive would be even better. Both 280W Razor motors front and rear with studded wide tires would work.
The red bike is officially down for awhile. It is on time out. I got to build a winter beater. It is great everyone is still posting. I am going to search for a rear hub motor. I cant fool around anymore with chains,sprockets and shitty controllers. I got to get something working.
The 24" bike has good front brakes and easy to fix rear.
I need a good 24" rear hub motor and will be good to go. I will be searching. Please post any links if possible and thanks for posting. I agree 100% that the hub motor is better. I have to say it because I am honest. It is also much simpler and less things need to be ordered and can go wrong.
Will LC give up totally on going 50+mph and chain driven motors? Not a chance in hell!!!! I am simply throwing in the towl now. Hub motors are the most simple, convinent and effective in almost all situtations. I see it and have to agree. I will be ordering one soon. I would like to get a 20" one for the back of the red bike but cant find one.
It should run about 24V and 500W. I can reinstall the Unite motor on the front at 60V in the spring and it will be pregeared for at least 37mph with the 57T on it now.
Yes I am a genious! Please post a link for a 20" kit if you can. Thanks.LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Click on your 400 x 300 pixel "preview" to show full picture. (1152px x 864px)latecurtis said:
< 800 x 600 picture will show as full rather than preview mode.
We need to see the bottom of the controller to better diagnose damage!
latecurtis
100 MW
I apologize but just dont see a wheel size here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RisunMotor-2015-Latest-48V-1500W-Brushless-Gearless-Hub-Motor-for-Rear-Wheel-/161856529519?hash=item25af66a46f:g
wEAAOSwKIpV-idu
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RisunMotor-2015-Latest-48V-1500W-Brushless-Gearless-Hub-Motor-for-Rear-Wheel-/161856529519?hash=item25af66a46f:g
wEAAOSwKIpV-idu
DrkAngel
1 GW
latecurtis said:As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Right and Wrong / true or false.
In a few cases though there is more than 1 correct answer. For example Hubert the electrical engineer who did my original Currie upgrade from 24 to 36V claimed 12 years of college and a degree in electrical enginering. His house looked at least $200,000 and he was in his 60s and lived alone plus he had solar panels on his garage roof and a charging station. He claimed that individual charging of batteries way the best way. His word seemed creditable.
I will stick with parallel charging any day and have great success with it.➀ DA. told me to get a 36V or 48V proper charger. Series charging. However with both parallel and series charging the batteries must be in the same state (number of charging cycles and overall health, life)
Hubert is 100% correct if they are not. That makes all three people right and it is rare but needed to point that out.
Brakes are another example. Doug told me ➁ front brakes are not even legal in some BMX events. My friend Eric + myself both flipped over handelbars early on in life and had no use for them. The fact that 70% or more stopping power is front brakes is undisputed. I agree 100% and wont doubt the facts.
However (I love that word!) When going down a really steep hill and trying to maintain a sane speed or when simply wanting to slow down gradually front brakes dont cut the mustard. They are what they are and can stop the bike really quick if properly tuned (sometimes too quick). Good for emergencey stops. Someone pulls out or steps in front of you!!
The thing is though you want some weight in the back to keep the back wheel on the ground when you do that! Head over heels is not fun in case you have not experienced that or were trained for it. I guess it can be fun but it happened many years ago but did not forget it. The fact I have 30+ pounds of SLAs in the rear of the 20" bike makes it safe for aggressive front stopping power.➂ However running front brakes solo I really have to question that.
The little red bike is better than I got credit for and probably safer than a rear wheel but only on dry roads. Slippery roads it would be 100% useless and a saftey hazzard to say the least. Winter is here.➃ I must build a rear wheel drive and get studded snow tires. All wheel drive would be even better. Both 280W Razor motors front and rear with studded wide tires would work.
The red bike is officially down for awhile. It is on time out. I got to build a winter beater. It is great everyone is still posting. I am going to search for a rear hub motor. I cant fool around anymore with chains,sprockets and shitty controllers. I got to get something working.
The 24" bike has good front brakes and easy to fix rear.
I need a good 24" rear hub motor and will be good to go. I will be searching. Please post any links if possible and thanks for posting. I agree 100% that the hub motor is better. I have to say it because I am honest. It is also much simpler and less things need to be ordered and can go wrong.
Will LC give up totally on going 50+mph and chain driven motors? Not a chance in hell!!!! I am simply throwing in the towl now. ➄ Hub motors are the most simple, convinent and effective in almost all situtations. I see it and have to agree. I will be ordering one soon. I would like to get a 20" one for the back of the red bike but cant find one.
It should run about 24V and 500W. I can reinstall the Unite motor on the front at 60V in the spring and it will be pregeared for at least 37mph with the 57T on it now.
LC. out.
latecurtis said:
➀ 36V or 48V charger is for convenience and to prevent improper damaging reconnection when tired or drunk etc.
➁ Flipping over the handlebars is the fault of the cyclist not learning how to use brakes ... not the fault of the brakes! But, short wheelbase 20" bike with high seat is a nosedive waiting to happen.
➂ Rear gear reduction motor (non-freewheel) can be as effective as rear brakes, and much safer, when used in conjunction with good front brakes! With 240lb? of rider setting on top of rear wheel, additional 30lb of battery adds minimal.
➃ I build my own Homemade Studded Tires using sheet metal screws!
➄ I, personally, find rear gear reduction (external - non-hub) motors to be more universally effective and adaptable. With the gear reduction mid-drive motor being the next revolutionary-evolutionary advancement!
➅ Maybe I don't limit my ability to learn by stigmatizing myself as a "genious" (genius?).
Sunder
10 MW
It's called the Dunning Kruger Effect.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
Not intending this to be an insult. I honestly think LC "doesn't know what he doesn't know".
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
DrkAngel
1 GW
1st picture.
Is that a bubble or a solder bulge to the left of the "tear"?
Is that a bubble or a solder bulge to the left of the "tear"?
DrkAngel
1 GW
Well ... i posted the link to how I build studded tires ... :?
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