new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
DrkAngel
1 GW
MY1018z (straight cut gears) = noisier
XYD-16 (Helical cut gears) = quieter
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
You know what they say, Money Talks, Bullshit Walks.
"Here it is: Show me the money. Oh-ho-ho! SHOW! ME! THE! MONEY! A-ha-ha! Jerry, doesn't it make you feel good just to say that! Say it with me one time, Jerry"
Your average person would have had a reliable bike to their spec 102 pages ago. You're midway through 103, and you have a collection of half working, short range, slow, heavy and fragile bikes, even after you were sent kits and batteries.
Show me the money.
If you want to take the road less traveled, FANTASTIC! But most people forget the next part of the line "And that has made all the difference". Where's the difference? Where has unorthodoxy saved you money? Where has unorthodoxy made you faster? More reliable? Stealthier? Cooler? Anything? Or has it just frustrated you, and cost you in the long run?
So underestimate? I've been one of your earliest and longest time backers. So far I think I've overestimated... Prove me wrong:
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
Wow. I would have never figured. Unite makes Currie motors. I believe you but it seems like a totally different animal than the Unite MY1020 or XY1020 motors. I do know however that Currie dont make these types of motors anymore. They switched to Hub motors now for all their new bikes.I saw an Izip Metro this lady had with a rear hub motor. She got rid of it and I tried to buy it from the guy she gave it to and it was a no go.
Also the Currie motor did make more noise than any Unite motor I have run since then with #25 chain but when I run it at 36V the noise it made was kind of cool. I liked the whirring sound it made and honestly miss that motor. Anyway I have a question.
Who makes the 900W 24V motor I posted in that monster scooter kit? Does Currie make that also or is that a Unite motor too?
I cant see why Unite(or the same company) would make a small compact 900W 24V 2600rpm motor and a 1,000W 48V 3000rpm motor over twice the size. What is the point of building a motor that much bigger for an extra 100W.
The only explination would be the 900W 24V motor just could not hold up or was of an inferior design. If that were the case then they would have been discontinued it like they did for their 36V 1,000W gear reduction motor, but as far as I can see Monster scooter is still selling them. My other question is has anyone on this forum had one of those motors? The reason I am asking is I would rather have that on the front of the red bike than the 500W Unite motor I ordered. The 500W motor looks bigger than the 900W motor. Also I would rather have it on the back of the 24" bike also.
Please let me know DA. as you got me curious now. It is most difficult to find a chain driven motor these days that dont require gear reduction. The AmpFlow motors which are very popular on Amazon are all built for tiny wheels. None of them are suitable for e bike applications expecially 24" wheels or larger. Expensive and complicated gear reduction is required. What I wish is for all ES members who are interested get togeather and start an active type of membership where all participants pay a monthly fee and we open a machine shop. Perhaps one in the USA and one in the UK and mabye even one in Austraila where Sunder is.
They could be small shops or we could pay an existing shop for modifications and designs of motors,controllers, gears, sprockets. ect. This way we could order in bulk from Alibaba like 20 or 30 motors at a time say AmpFlow for an example and fit them with gear reduction drives like in the picture and they could be geared for whatever bike we want to install them on. A 20" ,24, 26, 27, 29 or 700c.
We could also design and build our own motors wound to our specifications. We could start shipping and selling custom motor kits for profit and the profits would go into further reasearch and develoment. If we could organize it so 1,000 people pay $100 each then that is $100,000 to start it. It should be enough to get it going and generate profits. Soon every state would have their own machine shop and shipping costs would greatly reduce. Then the final step would be full LEV conversions. We could actually make a huge difference and possibly even save our planet. Please let me know and post when you can. Thanks.
LC. out.
PS. The Schwinn and the kit run flawlessly with the parts sent. I posted pictures and it was very sucessfull. Also the Currie ran perfect for nearly 2 years before I took off the motor. I hauled 100s of pounds of stuff with it and it was like a pick up truck. Yes I am experminting with little bikes and will continue. I am also researching and learning.
LC. out
Wow. I would have never figured. Unite makes Currie motors. I believe you but it seems like a totally different animal than the Unite MY1020 or XY1020 motors. I do know however that Currie dont make these types of motors anymore. They switched to Hub motors now for all their new bikes.I saw an Izip Metro this lady had with a rear hub motor. She got rid of it and I tried to buy it from the guy she gave it to and it was a no go.
Also the Currie motor did make more noise than any Unite motor I have run since then with #25 chain but when I run it at 36V the noise it made was kind of cool. I liked the whirring sound it made and honestly miss that motor. Anyway I have a question.
Who makes the 900W 24V motor I posted in that monster scooter kit? Does Currie make that also or is that a Unite motor too?
I cant see why Unite(or the same company) would make a small compact 900W 24V 2600rpm motor and a 1,000W 48V 3000rpm motor over twice the size. What is the point of building a motor that much bigger for an extra 100W.
The only explination would be the 900W 24V motor just could not hold up or was of an inferior design. If that were the case then they would have been discontinued it like they did for their 36V 1,000W gear reduction motor, but as far as I can see Monster scooter is still selling them. My other question is has anyone on this forum had one of those motors? The reason I am asking is I would rather have that on the front of the red bike than the 500W Unite motor I ordered. The 500W motor looks bigger than the 900W motor. Also I would rather have it on the back of the 24" bike also.
Please let me know DA. as you got me curious now. It is most difficult to find a chain driven motor these days that dont require gear reduction. The AmpFlow motors which are very popular on Amazon are all built for tiny wheels. None of them are suitable for e bike applications expecially 24" wheels or larger. Expensive and complicated gear reduction is required. What I wish is for all ES members who are interested get togeather and start an active type of membership where all participants pay a monthly fee and we open a machine shop. Perhaps one in the USA and one in the UK and mabye even one in Austraila where Sunder is.
They could be small shops or we could pay an existing shop for modifications and designs of motors,controllers, gears, sprockets. ect. This way we could order in bulk from Alibaba like 20 or 30 motors at a time say AmpFlow for an example and fit them with gear reduction drives like in the picture and they could be geared for whatever bike we want to install them on. A 20" ,24, 26, 27, 29 or 700c.
We could also design and build our own motors wound to our specifications. We could start shipping and selling custom motor kits for profit and the profits would go into further reasearch and develoment. If we could organize it so 1,000 people pay $100 each then that is $100,000 to start it. It should be enough to get it going and generate profits. Soon every state would have their own machine shop and shipping costs would greatly reduce. Then the final step would be full LEV conversions. We could actually make a huge difference and possibly even save our planet. Please let me know and post when you can. Thanks.
LC. out.
PS. The Schwinn and the kit run flawlessly with the parts sent. I posted pictures and it was very sucessfull. Also the Currie ran perfect for nearly 2 years before I took off the motor. I hauled 100s of pounds of stuff with it and it was like a pick up truck. Yes I am experminting with little bikes and will continue. I am also researching and learning.
LC. out
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
Figured now that I can post larger pictures I would post another. I did not sell or trade it. It is my best most reliable bike. The Currie was just as reliable before I took off the motor. That was a big mistake. If I had to do over I would have just punched the landlady in the face and beat the snot out of her husband for complaining about parking it downstairs in the first place. 
However if I did I would be in jail and would not own any e bikes so I guess it is better I took this road and decided to build smaller bikes. At least I am learning thru trial and error. I remember exactly how the Currie was built and everything is here on this post to redo it. I still have the 80 tooth sprocket and all I need to do is put a Unite motor 3,000rpm back on it but I want smaller more compact bikes until I move.
When I move I 8) am getting a big boy Fat bike with the huge tires and dual hub motors for close to 100mph.
Thanks. I have to get to work on these projects. Post when you can.
Yes DAN. I see your name. The Lipos you sent are in very good condition safe and sound stored at about 3.84V per cell in the cash box and the Lipo bag in the dryer. I will be running them again as soon as the 48V controller comes in and I get the motor on the back of the Huffy. That is the plan. In fact I may charge them later and take the Schwinn out if it dont snow or rain tommorow. Thanks.
LC. out.
PS. got back from Dougs. the plan is to take the motor off the red bike and the spoke sprocket and put on the Huffy and hopefully get the derailur hooked up for the pedal gears. Plus get a rear rack installed for the LIPOs. The 48V controller will be here before the variable one from China. E.T.A for the 1,000W Huffy is one week.
The Red Cargo bike will be next when the 500W motor shows up with the Variable controller with the built in pot. E.T.A for that is about 3 weeks. I will be getting a large back pack for hauling stuff until then.
The Little Razor bike is last on the list as it is simply a fun bike not intended for serious transportation. I will attempt to fix the burnt 36V controller for it after I figure out how to install the little motors. And as far as MONEY goes; the parts are on the way. Most of the bike parts and frames I have were free on a trade or found abandened like the 24" Huffy. Also I wasted a lot of money on ordering defective parts or parts I cant use so that is a sore subject. Thanks and I will keep everyone posted on our progress.
LC. out.
However if I did I would be in jail and would not own any e bikes so I guess it is better I took this road and decided to build smaller bikes. At least I am learning thru trial and error. I remember exactly how the Currie was built and everything is here on this post to redo it. I still have the 80 tooth sprocket and all I need to do is put a Unite motor 3,000rpm back on it but I want smaller more compact bikes until I move.
When I move I 8) am getting a big boy Fat bike with the huge tires and dual hub motors for close to 100mph.
Thanks. I have to get to work on these projects. Post when you can.
Yes DAN. I see your name. The Lipos you sent are in very good condition safe and sound stored at about 3.84V per cell in the cash box and the Lipo bag in the dryer. I will be running them again as soon as the 48V controller comes in and I get the motor on the back of the Huffy. That is the plan. In fact I may charge them later and take the Schwinn out if it dont snow or rain tommorow. Thanks.
LC. out.
PS. got back from Dougs. the plan is to take the motor off the red bike and the spoke sprocket and put on the Huffy and hopefully get the derailur hooked up for the pedal gears. Plus get a rear rack installed for the LIPOs. The 48V controller will be here before the variable one from China. E.T.A for the 1,000W Huffy is one week.
The Red Cargo bike will be next when the 500W motor shows up with the Variable controller with the built in pot. E.T.A for that is about 3 weeks. I will be getting a large back pack for hauling stuff until then.
The Little Razor bike is last on the list as it is simply a fun bike not intended for serious transportation. I will attempt to fix the burnt 36V controller for it after I figure out how to install the little motors. And as far as MONEY goes; the parts are on the way. Most of the bike parts and frames I have were free on a trade or found abandened like the 24" Huffy. Also I wasted a lot of money on ordering defective parts or parts I cant use so that is a sore subject.
Thanks and I will keep everyone posted on our progress. LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 1
Doing most of it here. Dont like hauling everything over there and if he is not in the mood to work on anything. It is a waste of time. look how much I got done already!
Most people including myself about a year ago would have said "Oh Gee I got to order a 80 tooth #25 spoke kit" "Please post a link"
I know better now because they dont exist!. I make due with what I have and have learned to make it work. I will use the knowledge I gained to true a wheel without a stand and that 80 tooth on the front wheel shall work for the 20" cargo bike when the 500W motor shows up.
Doing most of it here. Dont like hauling everything over there and if he is not in the mood to work on anything. It is a waste of time. look how much I got done already!Most people including myself about a year ago would have said "Oh Gee I got to order a 80 tooth #25 spoke kit" "Please post a link"
I know better now because they dont exist!. I make due with what I have and have learned to make it work. I will use the knowledge I gained to true a wheel without a stand and that 80 tooth on the front wheel shall work for the 20" cargo bike when the 500W motor shows up.
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 1
Thought about uninstalling the spoke sprocket and reinstalling it on the opposite side of the cassette so I would have lots of pedal gears. Too lazy to do all that. Lots of extra work. Who needs pedal gears anyway with a 1,000W motor. Just got to make it look good. :lol: :lol:
Thought about uninstalling the spoke sprocket and reinstalling it on the opposite side of the cassette so I would have lots of pedal gears. Too lazy to do all that. Lots of extra work. Who needs pedal gears anyway with a 1,000W motor. Just got to make it look good. :lol: :lol:
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment Movie_0001_mpeg1video_mpeg4.mp4
cant believe that actually works. A functional freewheel on a front wheel. :lol: :lol: :lol:
cant believe that actually works. A functional freewheel on a front wheel. :lol: :lol: :lol:
DAND214
10 MW
LC, that looks like my garage. Too much stuff to not trip over.
Well, I guess you are learning but I guess you won't learn what a bike can do and shouldn't do. I believe you are really pulling our legs with your 100mph crap but we'll never know.
As for your CROWN hub motor, there are cheaper and better hubs out there.
Dan
Well, I guess you are learning but I guess you won't learn what a bike can do and shouldn't do. I believe you are really pulling our legs with your 100mph crap but we'll never know.
As for your CROWN hub motor, there are cheaper and better hubs out there.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
Never made it to Dougs. I always do the motor mounting. It was most difficult as usual. The chain is tight but could be tighter. It is good for a test run at least when I get the new controller. I always have problems lining up the sprockets and getting the chain tight enough. Worked on it for about 9 hours I guess. Thanks for posting Dan. Dont know whats up with Sunder. he is losing faith in me.
I am not a quitter. If I was that motor would not be on there now. It was a bitch to say the least. I spent a lot of money on hardware in the last year and did a lot of experimenting. I used left over hardware I had. It is good for a test run at least when I get the new controller.
I dont know if I will ever have enough money to build a Fat big boy bike with expensive hub motors that goes 100mph but it sounded good. I will be happy if I can get this bike to do 30mph on the flat. Simple things like getting a controller in the mail that actually works for more than a few days will be an accomplishment. thanks. Post when you can guys.
LC. out.
I am not a quitter. If I was that motor would not be on there now. It was a bitch to say the least. I spent a lot of money on hardware in the last year and did a lot of experimenting. I used left over hardware I had. It is good for a test run at least when I get the new controller.
I dont know if I will ever have enough money to build a Fat big boy bike with expensive hub motors that goes 100mph but it sounded good. I will be happy if I can get this bike to do 30mph on the flat. Simple things like getting a controller in the mail that actually works for more than a few days will be an accomplishment. thanks. Post when you can guys.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-W-48-V-DC-Yiyun-LB57-Speed-Controller-box-for-scooter-brush-electric-motor-/161881444356?hash=item25b0e2d004:g:-QMAAOSw~bFWPmac
this is a link for the controller for the bike comming in between Jan 5 and 8.
I need a link for plugs for power,motor and throttle. I will get the solder kit and flux plus extra shrink wrapp. I refuse to cut any wires this time as if the thing dont work I want to return it for a refund.
Sunder wants to know where the MONEY is. It went to China for PARTS THAT DONT WORK!!!
Please post a link for parts if you can. I will need from USA and two day shipping. Thanks. LC. out.
this is a link for the controller for the bike comming in between Jan 5 and 8.
I need a link for plugs for power,motor and throttle. I will get the solder kit and flux plus extra shrink wrapp. I refuse to cut any wires this time as if the thing dont work I want to return it for a refund.
Sunder wants to know where the MONEY is. It went to China for PARTS THAT DONT WORK!!!
Please post a link for parts if you can. I will need from USA and two day shipping. Thanks. LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
uh... Used in this context, "Show me the money" means "Give me the proof" or "Show me you mean it". It doesn't literally mean cash.
You're saying you're going to be a big fish in this big pond. I'm saying you're all talk. If you're not, "Show me the money". Prove to me you're not all talk, and show me some of these leading bikes you're going to build. Reliable replacement transport for cars. Better than what everyone else is building here. Don't just say you're going to be the big fish. Prove it.
latecurtis
100 MW
I did not say it was going to happen overnight. I said in a few years. I am still learning and doing research. I struggle with mounting motors but dont give up. I did not even drink a beer until around 3am. I kept working until I got something accomplished. I am on my second beer now. I just got done cleaning up and putting tools away.
I am also returning to college in about two years to finish my degree in electrical technology. Being disabled for 60 months I qualify for a second chance and my outstanding student loans will be gone. I will be able to get grants. As long as my ticker keeps going and I dont get run over or shot I will be able to reach my goals.
I am thinking about building a triangle case for mounting batteries. I think it was you that said you did some pretty neat fabrications. I dont want to copy anyone else. I hope to come up with a plan of my own. I am working on it. OK. I am still a little fish but I got a lot of big ideas and many projects to do.
I have not yet got to brushles motors and gear reduction drives. I also need to learn mid drives with gearing. I also need to move out of here to a bigger place on the first floor so I can build some real bikes instead of small kids bikes. Most impostant I need to learn how to rebuild DC motors. Once all of that happens I can be a big fish. Thanks.
LC. out.
I am also returning to college in about two years to finish my degree in electrical technology. Being disabled for 60 months I qualify for a second chance and my outstanding student loans will be gone. I will be able to get grants. As long as my ticker keeps going and I dont get run over or shot I will be able to reach my goals.
I am thinking about building a triangle case for mounting batteries. I think it was you that said you did some pretty neat fabrications. I dont want to copy anyone else. I hope to come up with a plan of my own. I am working on it. OK. I am still a little fish but I got a lot of big ideas and many projects to do.
I have not yet got to brushles motors and gear reduction drives. I also need to learn mid drives with gearing. I also need to move out of here to a bigger place on the first floor so I can build some real bikes instead of small kids bikes. Most impostant I need to learn how to rebuild DC motors. Once all of that happens I can be a big fish. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers48volt.html
and
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=69
and
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=69
DAND214
10 MW
I hope you have the correct throttle for that controller.
Sunder is trying to tell you to slow down with those big dreams and learn how it is done, Properly.
Stop your BS with a 40/100mph bike. All you do is turn off lookers that would help you, if you were realistic.
Dan
Sunder is trying to tell you to slow down with those big dreams and learn how it is done, Properly.
Stop your BS with a 40/100mph bike. All you do is turn off lookers that would help you, if you were realistic.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
LC ...
Before dreaming about 30mph (illegal, unlicensed, unregistered, uninsured operation of a motor vehicle) ...
I recommend you accomplish reliable "legal" 20mph capability.
Then ... plan and talk about 30mph.
Riding against traffic is the easiest way to make sure you attract the attention of law enforcement, so ... you are liable to get on cop radar even at 20mph.
If they let you slide .. be prepared to get stomped on if caught hitting 30mph!
You'll probably get bike confiscated and fined enough to discourage any dreams of 40 >> 50 >> 100mph.
Hopefully before you do any harm to others .. or yourself.
Oh ... stress is cumulative.
Overweighting-overstressing a bike and not having it fail (crack, break, crush) when you hit a pothole doesn't mean it won't fail the next time you hit an even smaller pothole.
I hit a pothole, was able to jump front wheel over but back motor wheel hit hard. Stopped, inspected ... shockingly, everything seemed perfect. Rode another half mile then had to add a little throttle going up a small hill ... 7 spokes broke!
Most every project you talk about horribly exceeds designed capabilities ... you present yourself as an accident waiting to happen!
Many are afraid to watch.
Some tag along ... waiting for the inevitable trainwreck
A few try to be the voice of reason ... but are becoming disillusioned of their efforts accomplishing any good ...
Before dreaming about 30mph (illegal, unlicensed, unregistered, uninsured operation of a motor vehicle) ...
I recommend you accomplish reliable "legal" 20mph capability.
Then ... plan and talk about 30mph.
Riding against traffic is the easiest way to make sure you attract the attention of law enforcement, so ... you are liable to get on cop radar even at 20mph.
If they let you slide .. be prepared to get stomped on if caught hitting 30mph!
You'll probably get bike confiscated and fined enough to discourage any dreams of 40 >> 50 >> 100mph.
Hopefully before you do any harm to others .. or yourself.
Oh ... stress is cumulative.
Overweighting-overstressing a bike and not having it fail (crack, break, crush) when you hit a pothole doesn't mean it won't fail the next time you hit an even smaller pothole.
I hit a pothole, was able to jump front wheel over but back motor wheel hit hard. Stopped, inspected ... shockingly, everything seemed perfect. Rode another half mile then had to add a little throttle going up a small hill ... 7 spokes broke!
Most every project you talk about horribly exceeds designed capabilities ... you present yourself as an accident waiting to happen!
Many are afraid to watch.
Some tag along ... waiting for the inevitable trainwreck
A few try to be the voice of reason ... but are becoming disillusioned of their efforts accomplishing any good ...
DAND214
10 MW
Very well worded DA, I agree.
Dan
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Morning post. :lol:
OK I got the links. Thanks DA. I have been trying to ride carefully. Also been using right side of road most of the time. The new 24" build is not too heavy but if I add four SLAs to the frame it will be overweight expecially if I put them on the back with that motor. I will need to install them in the frame like the Currie if I am going to run them. I would rather run the Lipo packs for that as it is my lightweight fast bike. Actually my second fast bike as the Schwinn goes about 27mph.
The red bike is a long range cargo bike I need to ride with caution. It is extreamlly overweight and on the unsafe side. I need to operate it accordingly. I need to drive slowly 5 to 10mph normally and not over 15mph even on good road and avoid emergencey stops if possible. The upside of it is if I haul all six SLAs in the back I will have 24V@30Ah.
The little bike is not going to be used for serious transportation. Mabye a few blocks at about 10mph top speed. It is simply a fun project or experiment. I do thank you guys for the kindly advice and it is starting to sink in and make sense. The accident I had last summer with the Schwinn kind of shook me up a bit.
I have not traveled that road after dark since. Also I was on the wrong side of the road against traffic. I cant blame the dark or the broken section on the shoulder of the road. It was my fault for being there. If I need to go to a home improvement center such as Lowes or Home depot I simply take a bus now for three dollars. It is safer, expecially after dark. I am allowed back on busses now that the driver I had issues with is retired.
I need to realize I am not LFP and prehaps never will be. As I stated to Sunder any elaborite and expensive or radical projects are several years ahead if I live long enough. I need to get my butt back in college as everyone says I have potential. I believe I can learn a lot more. God Bless the USA as I am getting a last chance to improve myself thru education. Being I have the heart condition caused by a rare birth defect on top of a list of other disabilities I can go back to school if I live long enough. When or if I survive that long we will talk about fast bikes. A really cool and fast bike is highley desirable but only attainable thru higher learning, patience and Gods speed. Thanks.
LC. out.
OK I got the links. Thanks DA. I have been trying to ride carefully. Also been using right side of road most of the time. The new 24" build is not too heavy but if I add four SLAs to the frame it will be overweight expecially if I put them on the back with that motor. I will need to install them in the frame like the Currie if I am going to run them. I would rather run the Lipo packs for that as it is my lightweight fast bike. Actually my second fast bike as the Schwinn goes about 27mph.
The red bike is a long range cargo bike I need to ride with caution. It is extreamlly overweight and on the unsafe side. I need to operate it accordingly. I need to drive slowly 5 to 10mph normally and not over 15mph even on good road and avoid emergencey stops if possible. The upside of it is if I haul all six SLAs in the back I will have 24V@30Ah.
The little bike is not going to be used for serious transportation. Mabye a few blocks at about 10mph top speed. It is simply a fun project or experiment. I do thank you guys for the kindly advice and it is starting to sink in and make sense. The accident I had last summer with the Schwinn kind of shook me up a bit.
I have not traveled that road after dark since. Also I was on the wrong side of the road against traffic. I cant blame the dark or the broken section on the shoulder of the road. It was my fault for being there. If I need to go to a home improvement center such as Lowes or Home depot I simply take a bus now for three dollars. It is safer, expecially after dark. I am allowed back on busses now that the driver I had issues with is retired.
I need to realize I am not LFP and prehaps never will be. As I stated to Sunder any elaborite and expensive or radical projects are several years ahead if I live long enough. I need to get my butt back in college as everyone says I have potential. I believe I can learn a lot more. God Bless the USA as I am getting a last chance to improve myself thru education. Being I have the heart condition caused by a rare birth defect on top of a list of other disabilities I can go back to school if I live long enough. When or if I survive that long we will talk about fast bikes. A really cool and fast bike is highley desirable but only attainable thru higher learning, patience and Gods speed. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I will check my bank balance and if there is enough order the plugs and a 48V thumb throttle. I believe it is three wire. I dont think the freewheel I bolted on will be useful. I just checked it. 
:lol:
However It got me thinking. It is not my idea but at least a half a dozen people I have talked to have asked me the same question. Two of them a lot older with years of experience on me one being a mechanic who worked in a garage for over 30 years. My answer was yes it is possible but would be most difficult to set up and would help a little but would not be worth the trouble.
The question.
Is it possible to set up some sort of generator built into the wheels to generate electricity and charge the batteries as you are riding?
The only reason I thought of it now is because of the freewheel that may make it look like I am pedaling but wont actually work very well. I was thinking about instead of pedal assist to make it look good mabye the pedal chain could be hooked to a small generator somehow so the power generates electricity instead of powering the bike.
I know it is very far out, complicated and prehaphs unpractical but if electricity could be generated by the wheels spinning coasting downhills would generate quite a lot and pedaling on flat ground a little more it could actually increase the range of the batteries quite a bit. My guess would be 30 to 40%. Please note it is not one of my hair-brained, impossible or unpractical ideas. I was just wondering if there is any science behind the concept. It is not something I could afford any time soon but would be much better than a small mini generator in a rear basket. :lol: Thanks. Please post when you can.
LC. out.
:lol: However It got me thinking. It is not my idea but at least a half a dozen people I have talked to have asked me the same question. Two of them a lot older with years of experience on me one being a mechanic who worked in a garage for over 30 years. My answer was yes it is possible but would be most difficult to set up and would help a little but would not be worth the trouble.
The question.
Is it possible to set up some sort of generator built into the wheels to generate electricity and charge the batteries as you are riding?
The only reason I thought of it now is because of the freewheel that may make it look like I am pedaling but wont actually work very well. I was thinking about instead of pedal assist to make it look good mabye the pedal chain could be hooked to a small generator somehow so the power generates electricity instead of powering the bike.
I know it is very far out, complicated and prehaphs unpractical but if electricity could be generated by the wheels spinning coasting downhills would generate quite a lot and pedaling on flat ground a little more it could actually increase the range of the batteries quite a bit. My guess would be 30 to 40%. Please note it is not one of my hair-brained, impossible or unpractical ideas. I was just wondering if there is any science behind the concept. It is not something I could afford any time soon but would be much better than a small mini generator in a rear basket. :lol: Thanks. Please post when you can.
LC. out.
DAND214
10 MW
latecurtis said:I will check my bank balance and if there is enough order the plugs and a 48V thumb throttle. I believe it is three wire. I dont think the freewheel I bolted on will be useful. I just checked it.
However It got me thinking. It is not my idea but at least a half a dozen people I have talked to have asked me the same question. Two of them a lot older with years of experience on me one being a mechanic who worked in a garage for over 30 years. My answer was yes it is possible but would be most difficult to set up and would help a little but would not be worth the trouble.
The question.
Is it possible to set up some sort of generator built into the wheels to generate electricity and charge the batteries as you are riding?
The only reason I thought of it now is because of the freewheel that may make it look like I am pedaling but wont actually work very well. I was thinking about instead of pedal assist to make it look good mabye the pedal chain could be hooked to a small generator somehow so the power generates electricity instead of powering the bike.
I know it is very far out, complicated and prehaphs unpractical but if electricity could be generated by the wheels spinning coasting downhills would generate quite a lot and pedaling on flat ground a little more it could actually increase the range of the batteries quite a bit. My guess would be 30 to 40%. Please note it is not one of my hair-brained, impossible or unpractical ideas. I was just wondering if there is any science behind the concept. It is not something I could afford any time soon but would be much better than a small mini generator in a rear basket. :lol: Thanks. Please post when you can.
LC. out.
LC, don't waste you time or money on this idea. It's been talked about too many times and proven to be a waste of type. What little you could supply would be next to nothing. Charging the battery would do a little but would also make it heavier and complicated.
so many on the forum have talked about a generator powering the motor which would be a gas powered bike? Stinky and noisy.
When you get the throttle for the controller be sure to check the wiring polarity. When ever I order a throttle, I try to order a non battery indicator one. The indicator lights are a waste of time and can cause a full throttle short if it gets wet or shorted.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Unless there is a battery level meter, or some other function, all (Hall) throttles throttles are the same.
3-wire 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V etc.
eZip had 5 wires.
3 for throttle
+1 for battery level LEDs
+1 for PAS\TAG switch
3-wire 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V etc.
eZip had 5 wires.
3 for throttle
+1 for battery level LEDs
+1 for PAS\TAG switch
latecurtis
100 MW
I still have the twist throttle which came with the 24 - 60V variable controller. It was three wire and worked but the controller was defective. I still want a thumb throttle though.
I am sure they will come up with something. Pedaling though to generate current however would be a waste of time as the electricity would need to be stored and then converted back. That would be a waste of energy. However I was thinking that for long runs like 10 miles or more where there are big hills it could work if the weight were reduced to say under 7 pounds per unit.
It would work for chain driven non hub motors and the units ( one for each wheel) would be the size of a small geared hub motor with a stationary magnet in the center hub and copper wire spinning around the magnet as the wheel turns. It would need a special controller with three charging ports. One for a standard battery charger and the other two for the inputs comming in from each wheel. A circuit would keep the electrons flowing into the controller and prevent current from flowing out.
The other feature would be a sensor cutting the circuit when the batteries reach 100% charge and enabling the circuit when battery voltage drops below 90%. It would be needed when going down very long hills several miles or more. I know DA. said it is not practical and that is what I thought at first but thought about it awhile walking back from Wall-Mart before reading his post.
I agree it would need to be light. No more than 6 pounds for each wheel and designed to produce sufficient current to make it worthwhile. Down hills and heavy pedal on the flat should extend battery life to some degree. It is something that will require further study and design for lightweight and efficiency. Currently it is unpractical but theoretically could work someday.
As far as the current build I am installing a small basket on the front cut down for the cashbox with the Lipos and controller and putting a factory rack on the back for a large basket like what was on the back of the Currie. I need a cargo bike. I want to wait until the state law passes and e bikes are fully legal before building a large triangle compartment for hauling batteries. Please keep us posted on that law DA. Thanks.
LC. out.
I am sure they will come up with something. Pedaling though to generate current however would be a waste of time as the electricity would need to be stored and then converted back. That would be a waste of energy. However I was thinking that for long runs like 10 miles or more where there are big hills it could work if the weight were reduced to say under 7 pounds per unit.
It would work for chain driven non hub motors and the units ( one for each wheel) would be the size of a small geared hub motor with a stationary magnet in the center hub and copper wire spinning around the magnet as the wheel turns. It would need a special controller with three charging ports. One for a standard battery charger and the other two for the inputs comming in from each wheel. A circuit would keep the electrons flowing into the controller and prevent current from flowing out.
The other feature would be a sensor cutting the circuit when the batteries reach 100% charge and enabling the circuit when battery voltage drops below 90%. It would be needed when going down very long hills several miles or more. I know DA. said it is not practical and that is what I thought at first but thought about it awhile walking back from Wall-Mart before reading his post.
I agree it would need to be light. No more than 6 pounds for each wheel and designed to produce sufficient current to make it worthwhile. Down hills and heavy pedal on the flat should extend battery life to some degree. It is something that will require further study and design for lightweight and efficiency. Currently it is unpractical but theoretically could work someday.
As far as the current build I am installing a small basket on the front cut down for the cashbox with the Lipos and controller and putting a factory rack on the back for a large basket like what was on the back of the Currie. I need a cargo bike. I want to wait until the state law passes and e bikes are fully legal before building a large triangle compartment for hauling batteries. Please keep us posted on that law DA. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Justin, the owner of this website did some tests on regen. I think he got between 2 and 10% extra power, depending on settings and route. The main reason that people want regen, is to get smoother assisted braking.
A few things I'd thought of for range extension was a tiny 100w generator using a brushed RC motor and a tiny nitro motor. Another option was using a fuel cell. Neither of them are really cost effective though.
If you could get a practical onboard charger to extend range, that would be really impressive.
A few things I'd thought of for range extension was a tiny 100w generator using a brushed RC motor and a tiny nitro motor. Another option was using a fuel cell. Neither of them are really cost effective though.
If you could get a practical onboard charger to extend range, that would be really impressive.
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