DrkAngel
1 GW
DrkAngel said:
See - 22.2V - Battery Woes!
Followed by - HomeMade Battery Packs - 22.2V w/24V controller
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
See - 22.2V - Battery Woes!
Followed by - HomeMade Battery Packs - 22.2V w/24V controller
DAND214
10 MW
READ?DrkAngel said:
Are you serious?
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
I am combining the two 8.0 packs to a single 16.0 pack today after I mount the new cash box on the 20" bike running now.
The pictures I posted show the new cash box holds both packs perfectly.
I measured the packs and the box before buying it to be sure. The one pack was balanced charged last night to full.
Once The second pack is also and the new cash box is mounted it will be time for the rear rack and I will finally have a fully functional e bike for cargo.
Even if the Diamond Back is limited to 16mph due to internal gearing and is best equipped for heavy cargo a large reinforced rear rack on the back with a milk crate for hauling groceries would turn a gorgeous looking bike into a total piece of shit. That is not what was intended and I am not doing it. I am also using the battery bag that came with the kit.
I bought both metric and SEA both 11 piece thinking each set would have a wrench that would fit the axel nut for a torque arm. The pictures clearly show that it wont work. Please let me know what type of torque arms will work so I can order them. I need to know if a 20" fork is different from a mountain bike fork so I don't order torque arms for $30 or more to find out I wasted my money.
I am going to start listening more to you guys. It makes sense to combine packs. I will have to wait until I get the 10.0 pack to see if it is a decent pack before ordering a second. Hopefully it will work so I can run 44V@10.0 for the Diamond Back. Until then I may have to run the new packs at 44V@8.0 for the Diamond Back and 24V@16.0 for the cargo bike.
As far as the Lipos I got from Dan I will use them for the Schwinn and the 24" bike with the 48V motor on the back. I believe both controllers have LVC.The chain is hooked back up with a new motor sprocket and it needs a seat and brakes hooked up front and rear to run. The 24" wheel on the front was really bent so there is a 20" wheel up front now as well as the 20" wheel on the back.
The only way it will work is custom mounting brackets for the brakes. I believe I can accomplish it however it is still over geared. I was wondering if I put the 500W 24V motor on the front if it would still be over geared. Also how would I gear the front motor? With a 46 tooth spoke and 11 tooth wheel sprocket it would match the gearing in the back for 35mph. With a 56 tooth spoke sprocket it would be geared for 29mph in the front. Would the top speed still be 35mph or like 32mph.
The bike would be very heavy and am thinking about getting extra locks and a tarp and just keeping it locked to the metal stair rail outside. Please let me know if you can.
1.) the correct torque arms for the front hub motor on the 20" Diamond Back.
2.) The correct size spoke sprocket for the front of the 24" bike for dual motors.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
OMG!
Holding the nut will accomplish exactly nothing!!!
You need an open ended wrench to exactly tightly replace the U washer you placed on the axle, around the wire exit.
Holding the nut will accomplish exactly nothing!!!
You need an open ended wrench to exactly tightly replace the U washer you placed on the axle, around the wire exit.
latecurtis
100 MW
What about torque arms? I don't really want to use a wrench at all because it looks like shit. I want torque arms.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Bike-Electric-Bicycle-Universal-Torque-Arm-Front-Or-Rear-Use-up-to-18mm-/141724461831?hash=item20ff6fab07:g:ZmwAAOSwT4lWR48C
If these will work I will order them immediately. Please let me know.
I ordered them anyway. I only have one torque arm on the Schwinn so if they don't fit I can put one of them on the Schwinn.
Sharp jagged edges where I drilled out the side for the wires coming out. Covered good with gorilla tape so no damage to wires.
I guess I have no choice but to break out the soldering iron to make parallel cable for combining packs. I will need more shrink wrap though. Going to walk to Wall - Mart for fish food anyway as I forgot it yesterday. Advanced auto should have shrink wrap.
You guys are probably right in saying I don't need a 50mph e bike. If I can get at least one e bike to go a little over 30mph this summer I will be happy. Please let me know about the gearing on the front of the 24" bike for dual motors. Thanks.
LC. out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Bike-Electric-Bicycle-Universal-Torque-Arm-Front-Or-Rear-Use-up-to-18mm-/141724461831?hash=item20ff6fab07:g:ZmwAAOSwT4lWR48C
If these will work I will order them immediately. Please let me know.
I ordered them anyway. I only have one torque arm on the Schwinn so if they don't fit I can put one of them on the Schwinn.
Sharp jagged edges where I drilled out the side for the wires coming out. Covered good with gorilla tape so no damage to wires.
I guess I have no choice but to break out the soldering iron to make parallel cable for combining packs. I will need more shrink wrap though. Going to walk to Wall - Mart for fish food anyway as I forgot it yesterday. Advanced auto should have shrink wrap.
You guys are probably right in saying I don't need a 50mph e bike. If I can get at least one e bike to go a little over 30mph this summer I will be happy. Please let me know about the gearing on the front of the 24" bike for dual motors. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
Looking at the design it should work. The flats of the drop outs are always the same size (they have to be to universally fit into the bike), it's only the radius of the circle that changes, and as long as yours is under 18mm, it should fit.
As for the gorilla tape on the sharp edges, didn't you say you don't want stuff that looks shit? Don't be a tight*cough*. You can get a pack of 10 of these for under $5. They're called rubber grommets.
latecurtis
100 MW
Yea but the hole I made is not exactly perfect and doubt it will fit properly. Also that bike with the motor on the front is getting spray painted all black.
When Dan sent me the packs he sent two large Lipo bags. One bag was large enough to hold all four of the packs. I still have the other bag which will go inside of the bag on the front of the Diamond Back in the picture I took today. I can also put the controller inside the bag too I hope. I don't want a rack for the back of the Diamond Back or wires running on the frame.
The Diamond Back with the hub motor is the bike I am concerned about looking good. The black 20" bike is a cargo bike and getting that ugly rack from the red bike anyway for cargo.
The Schwinn with the hub motor you sent and the Diamond Back with the hub motor I bought are the bikes I want to look really good and the Schwinn already does. Thanks.
LC. out.
When Dan sent me the packs he sent two large Lipo bags. One bag was large enough to hold all four of the packs. I still have the other bag which will go inside of the bag on the front of the Diamond Back in the picture I took today. I can also put the controller inside the bag too I hope. I don't want a rack for the back of the Diamond Back or wires running on the frame.
The Diamond Back with the hub motor is the bike I am concerned about looking good. The black 20" bike is a cargo bike and getting that ugly rack from the red bike anyway for cargo.
The Schwinn with the hub motor you sent and the Diamond Back with the hub motor I bought are the bikes I want to look really good and the Schwinn already does. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
The hole doesn't need to be perfectly round. It's made of rubber so is very flexible.
It's not just about looks either. I can't see how you've gorilla taped it, but unless you're 100% sure it's good, I'd rather make sure it works well than have 48v coursing live through the bike.
It's not just about looks either. I can't see how you've gorilla taped it, but unless you're 100% sure it's good, I'd rather make sure it works well than have 48v coursing live through the bike.
latecurtis
100 MW
Ok post a link for them. You talked me into it.
I see DAs name on the bottom of the page. I wish he would let me know about the gearing for that dual motor set up on the 24" bike with the 20" tires I want to do. Should I get a 46 tooth spoke kit for 35mph to match the gearing for the 1,000W motor on the back or gear it for 29mph with a 56 tooth sprocket.
There is nothing else the 500W motor will fit on. At only 24V and 500W it is over geared on a 20" wheel by itself. It defiantly wont work for the Currie with a 26" wheel.
There is also a third option which may work also. Running the 24V motor at 36V and 750W. This would increase the rpms to 3,750rpm and with a 60T spoke sprocket it would be geared for 40mph. Will 1,750W total from both motors = 40mph or should I just go with the 46 tooth and 1,500W total for 35mph. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
I see DAs name on the bottom of the page. I wish he would let me know about the gearing for that dual motor set up on the 24" bike with the 20" tires I want to do. Should I get a 46 tooth spoke kit for 35mph to match the gearing for the 1,000W motor on the back or gear it for 29mph with a 56 tooth sprocket.
There is nothing else the 500W motor will fit on. At only 24V and 500W it is over geared on a 20" wheel by itself. It defiantly wont work for the Currie with a 26" wheel.
There is also a third option which may work also. Running the 24V motor at 36V and 750W. This would increase the rpms to 3,750rpm and with a 60T spoke sprocket it would be geared for 40mph. Will 1,750W total from both motors = 40mph or should I just go with the 46 tooth and 1,500W total for 35mph. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
Here, get a box of 120 for $6, free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GD-120-pcs-rubber-grommet-assortment-kit-3mm-10mm-id-unbranded-Generic-/272209185362?hash=item3f60ee8a52:g:SXwAAOSwGvhUJGRH
10mm internal diameter ones should do up to 0AWG depending on the insulation thickness. You're probably running 12-14AWG, right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GD-120-pcs-rubber-grommet-assortment-kit-3mm-10mm-id-unbranded-Generic-/272209185362?hash=item3f60ee8a52:g:SXwAAOSwGvhUJGRH
10mm internal diameter ones should do up to 0AWG depending on the insulation thickness. You're probably running 12-14AWG, right?
latecurtis
100 MW
Ordered.
I hope to get some advice from somebody on that dual motor build. I think if I were to guess that the 500W motor on the front should be geared for the same speed as the motor on the back. That would be a 46 tooth spoke and 11T motor for the 500W 24V motor. The 48V motor on the back is geared for 35mph with a 56 tooth. The rpm of the 24V motor is 2500 the 48V motor is 3,000. It checks out on sprocket calculator and I believe 1,500W total powered with dual motors each geared for approx. 35 mph will work.
Gearing the 24V motor for 29mph will lower speed to about 31mph maybe 32. It will be slightly better up hills.
Running the 24V motor at 36V and 40mph gearing is beyond the capacity of the motors and the bike remains over geared.
My question is if that question was on an e bike test would that be the correct answer? Please let me know as I am also here to learn. Not just to build e bikes. I want to be as smart as you guys. I want a little feedback on the physics of this 24" build. I don't plan on climbing any significant hills with it anyways so top speed is my motive. I already have a reliable 25 to 27mph bike in the Schwinn. The 20" 18mph cargo bike too. I want to build a 35mph bike. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
I hope to get some advice from somebody on that dual motor build. I think if I were to guess that the 500W motor on the front should be geared for the same speed as the motor on the back. That would be a 46 tooth spoke and 11T motor for the 500W 24V motor. The 48V motor on the back is geared for 35mph with a 56 tooth. The rpm of the 24V motor is 2500 the 48V motor is 3,000. It checks out on sprocket calculator and I believe 1,500W total powered with dual motors each geared for approx. 35 mph will work.
Gearing the 24V motor for 29mph will lower speed to about 31mph maybe 32. It will be slightly better up hills.
Running the 24V motor at 36V and 40mph gearing is beyond the capacity of the motors and the bike remains over geared.
My question is if that question was on an e bike test would that be the correct answer? Please let me know as I am also here to learn. Not just to build e bikes. I want to be as smart as you guys. I want a little feedback on the physics of this 24" build. I don't plan on climbing any significant hills with it anyways so top speed is my motive. I already have a reliable 25 to 27mph bike in the Schwinn. The 20" 18mph cargo bike too. I want to build a 35mph bike. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
Packs are combined.
The first picture on the top shows the voltage before combining the packs. First Bottom picture under this post is afterwards.
Total voltage before combining packs was .01V difference 1/10 of a volt I guess that means.It was no big deal as far as the power connectors were concerned as the pre hook up cable made it a spark free connection.
Wish I could say the same with the balance cables though. I got a huge spark and a scorched balance plug on one of the packs.
I am defiantly not ever unhooking it again. Did not unhook it to snap a picture of the burnt plug. No 44V ever for these packs.
I learned the hard way again. I will never use the balance plug when first connecting the second pack to the Y balance cable. I will use an extension first as not to damage the balance plug on the pack. I tested it though with the balancer and it read all six cells. I used the extension for that pack first then unhooked it and hooked it up to the Y balance cable. What I should have done the first time. The results are the bottom picture and now I have a 16s Lipo pack for the 20" bike.
The cargo basket is the same size large one that was on the back of the Currie modified to fit around the seat. It is bolted to the rack with a cardboard bottom so the bolts sticking up don't puncture anything. The bike is now a lot heavier than it was without the rack on the back and the cash box with the Lipos on the front. It was about 15 pounds lighter with just the single Lipo pack in the coffee can. I will be making extensions for the charging cables so I wont need to remove the packs from the cash box awhile charging.
I got a letter from Social Security and I get to keep my 5 grand and will be getting a check for $838 on the third of May.
At that point in time I can order an identical 10.0 6s pack for 44V for the Lipo bag which came with the Hub motor kit.
I am not running SLAs either for the Diamond Back as I don't intend on a rear rack unless it is factory and chrome or a small black factory rack. I believe in either case there is no such thing.
I may install it on the back. Wall Mart makes a very low profile black rack for $14. It is the same rack that is on the back of the black bike however without the steel supports running down to the frame. That was required for hauling heavy SLAs or cargo in a cargo basket. The new one for the Diamond Back will only have the Lipo bag on it with the two 10.0 packs.
Putting the Lipo on the back and the chain and padlock under the seat post will equal the weight as the hub motor is on the front. What really sucks is I will be waiting for the new 10.0 packs. However I may be able to use Dan's Lipo packs until they come in. We shall see how much life is left in them. SLAs will be too heavy for the back rack so it is out of the question. Thanks.
LC. out.
The first picture on the top shows the voltage before combining the packs. First Bottom picture under this post is afterwards.
Total voltage before combining packs was .01V difference 1/10 of a volt I guess that means.It was no big deal as far as the power connectors were concerned as the pre hook up cable made it a spark free connection.
Wish I could say the same with the balance cables though. I got a huge spark and a scorched balance plug on one of the packs.
I am defiantly not ever unhooking it again. Did not unhook it to snap a picture of the burnt plug. No 44V ever for these packs.I learned the hard way again. I will never use the balance plug when first connecting the second pack to the Y balance cable. I will use an extension first as not to damage the balance plug on the pack. I tested it though with the balancer and it read all six cells. I used the extension for that pack first then unhooked it and hooked it up to the Y balance cable. What I should have done the first time. The results are the bottom picture and now I have a 16s Lipo pack for the 20" bike.
The cargo basket is the same size large one that was on the back of the Currie modified to fit around the seat. It is bolted to the rack with a cardboard bottom so the bolts sticking up don't puncture anything. The bike is now a lot heavier than it was without the rack on the back and the cash box with the Lipos on the front. It was about 15 pounds lighter with just the single Lipo pack in the coffee can. I will be making extensions for the charging cables so I wont need to remove the packs from the cash box awhile charging.
I got a letter from Social Security and I get to keep my 5 grand and will be getting a check for $838 on the third of May.
At that point in time I can order an identical 10.0 6s pack for 44V for the Lipo bag which came with the Hub motor kit.
I am not running SLAs either for the Diamond Back as I don't intend on a rear rack unless it is factory and chrome or a small black factory rack. I believe in either case there is no such thing.
I may install it on the back. Wall Mart makes a very low profile black rack for $14. It is the same rack that is on the back of the black bike however without the steel supports running down to the frame. That was required for hauling heavy SLAs or cargo in a cargo basket. The new one for the Diamond Back will only have the Lipo bag on it with the two 10.0 packs.
Putting the Lipo on the back and the chain and padlock under the seat post will equal the weight as the hub motor is on the front. What really sucks is I will be waiting for the new 10.0 packs. However I may be able to use Dan's Lipo packs until they come in. We shall see how much life is left in them. SLAs will be too heavy for the back rack so it is out of the question. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
Dual motor drive system advice ... hmm ...
dual motors
dual drive systems
dual controllers
dual batteries
dual throttles
You seem to struggle keeping a single motor build operating!
Building and keeping a dual system operating properly might be 400-800% as complex ...
My advice on a dual drive system?
Think about it after, and if, you ever get a single motor system going reliably.
Seems like you only keep any build going for a few runs before it screws up or you screw it up by trying to make it better ... ?
dual motors
dual drive systems
dual controllers
dual batteries
dual throttles
You seem to struggle keeping a single motor build operating!
Building and keeping a dual system operating properly might be 400-800% as complex ...
My advice on a dual drive system?
Think about it after, and if, you ever get a single motor system going reliably.
Seems like you only keep any build going for a few runs before it screws up or you screw it up by trying to make it better ... ?
Sunder
10 MW
DrkAngel said:
Despite a Chinese heritage, I almost never quote Chinese proverbs. But this one's only very new, after the Chinese manufacturing boom. It goes a little like a Notorious B.I.G. song: "Mo' parts, Mo' problems".
(Actually, the real saying I've heard a few manufacturers say is "Fewer parts mean fewer problems", but you know, I can take a bit of artistic license on a forum, right?)
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Dual motors. Three ways home. :lol:
Not to hard for me to accomplish. I will simply order another variable pot for the front motor.
That crazy ass switch I bought about two years ago would work for a two speed shifter.
I can gear the front motor for about 18 mph at 24V and switch to 36V with different Lipo packs. :lol:
I just have to go back in this post to figure out the switch again. Research my past. :lol: It is all here.
Already got 36V SLA. @ 20Ah if I use all six. If I manage two 10.0 packs for 44V in the back. Done deal. + pedal.
The 24" bike is my summer build and it's gonna be wicked. Looking for 35mph. I want a portable speedo battery operated because I want one. Too many bikes to do otherwise. On my way to calculator to figure this thing. :lol:
Got genious written all over it.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Not to hard for me to accomplish. I will simply order another variable pot for the front motor.
That crazy ass switch I bought about two years ago would work for a two speed shifter.
I can gear the front motor for about 18 mph at 24V and switch to 36V with different Lipo packs. :lol:
I just have to go back in this post to figure out the switch again. Research my past. :lol: It is all here.
Already got 36V SLA. @ 20Ah if I use all six. If I manage two 10.0 packs for 44V in the back. Done deal. + pedal.
The 24" bike is my summer build and it's gonna be wicked. Looking for 35mph. I want a portable speedo battery operated because I want one. Too many bikes to do otherwise. On my way to calculator to figure this thing. :lol:
Got genious written all over it.
Thanks.LC. out.
Gregory
100 kW
2 days ago latecurtis said:
latecurtis
100 MW
I will need to order from Custom Sprockets.
An 80 tooth is the magic number for the motor. Geared for 20mph at 24V and 30 mph at 36V.
Together it should push 33 mph. Also more efficient as the rear motor wont be used much when the front is set to 24V.
Pedal assist on hills though should climb well with both motors front at 24V geared for 20mph + 1.000W rear geared 35mph.
When racing 36V for front motor for 30 mph gearing both motors full speed ahead!
Battery configuration is simple. Six SLAs and four Lipo packs. 48V@10.0 rear Lipo. front = 20.0 24V Lipo / 36V 20Ah SLA.
Trick is if your trip is most downhill to get there, and uphill back, running the SLAs there, and the 22V 20Ah Lipo pack back will work the best.
Obviously both battery switches need to be off before engaging the front motor from 24 to 36V with the switch I ordered.
Don't feel like searching for it but first 50 pages maybe. Easier to take a picture.
An 80 tooth is the magic number for the motor. Geared for 20mph at 24V and 30 mph at 36V.
Together it should push 33 mph. Also more efficient as the rear motor wont be used much when the front is set to 24V.
Pedal assist on hills though should climb well with both motors front at 24V geared for 20mph + 1.000W rear geared 35mph.
When racing 36V for front motor for 30 mph gearing both motors full speed ahead!
Battery configuration is simple. Six SLAs and four Lipo packs. 48V@10.0 rear Lipo. front = 20.0 24V Lipo / 36V 20Ah SLA.
Trick is if your trip is most downhill to get there, and uphill back, running the SLAs there, and the 22V 20Ah Lipo pack back will work the best.
Obviously both battery switches need to be off before engaging the front motor from 24 to 36V with the switch I ordered.
Don't feel like searching for it but first 50 pages maybe. Easier to take a picture.
latecurtis
100 MW
OK.
Perfectly understandable.
Before installing the 500W motor, switch and batteries to run it, it must get brakes. Good brakes!
I will invest in disk brakes front and back if possible. Minimum is U brakes with custom brackets for the rear and new forks with disk in the front.
Both wheels are 20" on a 24" frame with motors front and back. $165 = Hydraulic and Doug can install them. We can go there. Why not.
DA says I have to put a 24" wheel on the front to run it. Maybe not. Talking to Doug tomorrow about these Hydraulic brakes.
DrkAngel
1 GW
I am a KISS fan.Sunder said:
Keep It Simple Stupid!
latecurtis
100 MW
Yes DA. you have a valid point. There is an easier way however it don't involve the 500W motor.
If I were to put an identical 48V 1,000W motor on the back with the same controller and gearing as the rear with the same size wheels I could run both controllers off the same battery pack as long as they are Lipos and high capacity packs.
The big question is could a single throttle work for both controllers?
2,000W geared for 35mph would not only accelerate to 35mph quickly but should also be fairly decent up hills.
It was actually my original plan but keep trying to find a home for that 24V 500W motor. The only thing I can figure that would work besides an $80 sprocket from Kings Custom sprockets is to install it on the back of a 20" bike but with an 18" rear 36 spoke wheel. The 60T spoke kit is around $30. It don't pay to order a sprocket $30 more than the $50 motor.
Even with an 18" wheel though gearing would be 24 mph with a 60T spoke and 11T motor sprocket. That is still borderline high. Ideally a 500W motor should be geared for about 18 mph. The only hope for the motor is with the #25 11T motor sprocket that came with it and the #25 80T bolted to a freewheel. Making it work by bolting it to the spokes with nuts and washers did not work very well.
As a matter of fact I will order the mounting bolts for that sprocket as I am not sure where the bolts and nuts that came with it are. There is still hope for that motor if I can find a really straight wheel. Also it would run off a single 10.0 Lipo pack easily without a cash bok in the front. I am satisfied with the cargo bike I have now all ready to go but it is a bit on the heavy side.
-minus the heavy 60T sprocket and #415 chain
-minus Two Lipo packs up front in a cash box
-minus a reinforced rear rack.
The bike would be about 20 pounds lighter easily.
Perfect for light duty cargo with a large back pack and reliable light short to medium range transportation. It looks like I will be building another 20" bike. I got a good frame for it. I just need a perfectly straight 20" front wheel.
Just ordered another variable controller with the built in pot and the proper mounting bolts for the 80T #25 sprocket.
Also got a better and easier way to mount the motor. I will be picking up two more U bolts and nuts and bolts very soon. I got most of the wood also. No steel brackets this time.
You have a valid point DA. However I hope this current build proves to be the exception.
Inserting this. Just got back from the river to see some old friends. I did not stay long as it really looks like rain and I was the only one sober. I don't drink before I take my blood pressure pills. One of the reasons I drink late at night. I usually eat a meal then take the pills and vitamins then eat a second meal 4 to 6 hours later and don't touch a beer until about an hour after that. It gives the pills time to work and keeps me from being an alcoholic. Some people would still classify me as one so it keeps me from suffering from full blown alcoholism. (people who rarely eat and drink ALL DAY) I am not that guy.
A good three mile run and look at the voltage. Really glad I combined the packs.
Please let me know if I can run one thumb throttle with two 48V controllers. Thanks.
LC. out.
If I were to put an identical 48V 1,000W motor on the back with the same controller and gearing as the rear with the same size wheels I could run both controllers off the same battery pack as long as they are Lipos and high capacity packs.
The big question is could a single throttle work for both controllers?
2,000W geared for 35mph would not only accelerate to 35mph quickly but should also be fairly decent up hills.
It was actually my original plan but keep trying to find a home for that 24V 500W motor. The only thing I can figure that would work besides an $80 sprocket from Kings Custom sprockets is to install it on the back of a 20" bike but with an 18" rear 36 spoke wheel. The 60T spoke kit is around $30. It don't pay to order a sprocket $30 more than the $50 motor.
Even with an 18" wheel though gearing would be 24 mph with a 60T spoke and 11T motor sprocket. That is still borderline high. Ideally a 500W motor should be geared for about 18 mph. The only hope for the motor is with the #25 11T motor sprocket that came with it and the #25 80T bolted to a freewheel. Making it work by bolting it to the spokes with nuts and washers did not work very well.
As a matter of fact I will order the mounting bolts for that sprocket as I am not sure where the bolts and nuts that came with it are. There is still hope for that motor if I can find a really straight wheel. Also it would run off a single 10.0 Lipo pack easily without a cash bok in the front. I am satisfied with the cargo bike I have now all ready to go but it is a bit on the heavy side.
-minus the heavy 60T sprocket and #415 chain
-minus Two Lipo packs up front in a cash box
-minus a reinforced rear rack.
The bike would be about 20 pounds lighter easily.
Perfect for light duty cargo with a large back pack and reliable light short to medium range transportation. It looks like I will be building another 20" bike. I got a good frame for it. I just need a perfectly straight 20" front wheel.
Just ordered another variable controller with the built in pot and the proper mounting bolts for the 80T #25 sprocket.
Also got a better and easier way to mount the motor. I will be picking up two more U bolts and nuts and bolts very soon. I got most of the wood also. No steel brackets this time.
You have a valid point DA. However I hope this current build proves to be the exception.
Inserting this. Just got back from the river to see some old friends. I did not stay long as it really looks like rain and I was the only one sober. I don't drink before I take my blood pressure pills. One of the reasons I drink late at night. I usually eat a meal then take the pills and vitamins then eat a second meal 4 to 6 hours later and don't touch a beer until about an hour after that. It gives the pills time to work and keeps me from being an alcoholic. Some people would still classify me as one so it keeps me from suffering from full blown alcoholism. (people who rarely eat and drink ALL DAY) I am not that guy.
A good three mile run and look at the voltage. Really glad I combined the packs.
Please let me know if I can run one thumb throttle with two 48V controllers. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
Sunder
10 MW
I am not 100% on this, but since all throttles do is take 5v and return a 0.8 to 4.5v signal which the controller maps to 0-100% current.
From the little I know of electronics, provided the ground is common, this should work.
From the little I know of electronics, provided the ground is common, this should work.
latecurtis
100 MW
Thanks Sunder. It is simply a summer fun project.
I cant believe what I saw tonight. I am tempted to take all my money out of the bank tomorrow. I am not a Chevy man and always loved Dodge but this Corvette is totally vintage. Snow white with chrome mags. It looks like it just rolled out of the show room. 1984 classic $4,950. The guy will take $4,500. No plates but motor runs. It sounds too good to be true. Probably something wrong with the tranny I would imagine.
It is lovely but scrap metal is back up to $10 a hundred pounds and a pick up truck is what I need. Also I am not sure if I have to move or not. Thanks.
LC. out.
I cant believe what I saw tonight. I am tempted to take all my money out of the bank tomorrow. I am not a Chevy man and always loved Dodge but this Corvette is totally vintage. Snow white with chrome mags. It looks like it just rolled out of the show room. 1984 classic $4,950. The guy will take $4,500. No plates but motor runs. It sounds too good to be true. Probably something wrong with the tranny I would imagine.
It is lovely but scrap metal is back up to $10 a hundred pounds and a pick up truck is what I need. Also I am not sure if I have to move or not. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Don't forget $2000 every year for insurance!latecurtis said:
latecurtis
100 MW
Yea DA. I know. That's why I am not buying it. I need something lightweight but something that can haul about 500lbs worth of scrap metal. I want to be able to make enough money in a couple of years to convert to electric. Any suggestions?
Also if I do get something which can be converted and drove it where you are could you help with the convert or do you know someone who could? How about a hybrid. Is there a way to upgrade a hybrid for 50mph and 100 instead of 30 miles range.
Ideally a hybrid or fully electric car would at least need to have the capacity to tow a trailer with 500lbs of scrap metal for $50 cash ins at least three times a week. The scrap yard is less than one mile from here and I can get 100lbs of metal easily in about two hours just cruising the neighborhood. Gas may go up again but wont effect my profits as long as I can charge every night.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5519366757.html
nice but like to know what I am getting into.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5509443880.html
Please let me know. How much will the batteries cost? Can you help me install them?
Back to the 24" build.
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html
Only needs a 48T spoke kit for 35mph gearing on the front of the 24" bike. It also uses a three wire throttle. If I can use a thumb throttle to run both controllers the 10.0 amp 6s pack would work. 48V@10ah SLA for the back motor.
Also if I put a 13T motor sprocket on both motors and a 49T spoke kit on the front gearing for both motors will = 41mph.
Is 1,900W total enough power for 40mph? I see no sense in spending that much money for 35 mph when I can order a 65T spoke kit for about $70 with shipping for 30mph with the single motor on the back.
There is also another option for 35mph with the single motor on the back. A 70T spoke kit from King Custom sprockets and a 60V brushed controller, however this obviously involves SLA homicide :lol: :lol: A have six SLAs so I could hook up a killer stereo to #6 so at least I can listen to some good tunes awhile I murder the SLAs.
There is even another option. Get the 3,330W 4.5Hp AmpFlow motor for the Currie which is 4,900rpm and run it at 24V for 3,267 rpm @ 2,220W geared for 40mph with a 70T spoke kit from Kings Custom sprockets.
Please let me know what I should do. Thanks.
LC. out.
Also if I do get something which can be converted and drove it where you are could you help with the convert or do you know someone who could? How about a hybrid. Is there a way to upgrade a hybrid for 50mph and 100 instead of 30 miles range.
Ideally a hybrid or fully electric car would at least need to have the capacity to tow a trailer with 500lbs of scrap metal for $50 cash ins at least three times a week. The scrap yard is less than one mile from here and I can get 100lbs of metal easily in about two hours just cruising the neighborhood. Gas may go up again but wont effect my profits as long as I can charge every night.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5519366757.html
nice but like to know what I am getting into.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5509443880.html
Please let me know. How much will the batteries cost? Can you help me install them?
Back to the 24" build.
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-900-watt-motor-controller-throttle-kit-premium.html
Only needs a 48T spoke kit for 35mph gearing on the front of the 24" bike. It also uses a three wire throttle. If I can use a thumb throttle to run both controllers the 10.0 amp 6s pack would work. 48V@10ah SLA for the back motor.
Also if I put a 13T motor sprocket on both motors and a 49T spoke kit on the front gearing for both motors will = 41mph.
Is 1,900W total enough power for 40mph? I see no sense in spending that much money for 35 mph when I can order a 65T spoke kit for about $70 with shipping for 30mph with the single motor on the back.
There is also another option for 35mph with the single motor on the back. A 70T spoke kit from King Custom sprockets and a 60V brushed controller, however this obviously involves SLA homicide :lol: :lol: A have six SLAs so I could hook up a killer stereo to #6 so at least I can listen to some good tunes awhile I murder the SLAs.
There is even another option. Get the 3,330W 4.5Hp AmpFlow motor for the Currie which is 4,900rpm and run it at 24V for 3,267 rpm @ 2,220W geared for 40mph with a 70T spoke kit from Kings Custom sprockets.
Please let me know what I should do. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
No offense mate, but you might want to get a bike working rock solid reliable before you even think about converting a car.
If you think you're having trouble now, just think about batteries of 80-100 cells in series, and 10 deep in parallel. Bot only are you at voltages that will kill you instantly, but the spark will blow through metal.
The chain won't just slip: if its designed to move 3000lbs at 80mph, if it breaks or comes loose, it might slice through the firewall and take off someone's' leg.
My advice which is repeated feom before, get an old Prius with a dead pack. You should be able to get one for little more than scrap value, then turn the 6S NiMh packs to a 2S LiPo pack. You'd get more range, more efficiency, and possibly turn it into plugin if you want.
You'd also be able to get some good cells within the ruined pack you could use for a solar setup or for a beat around bike.
If you think you're having trouble now, just think about batteries of 80-100 cells in series, and 10 deep in parallel. Bot only are you at voltages that will kill you instantly, but the spark will blow through metal.
The chain won't just slip: if its designed to move 3000lbs at 80mph, if it breaks or comes loose, it might slice through the firewall and take off someone's' leg.
My advice which is repeated feom before, get an old Prius with a dead pack. You should be able to get one for little more than scrap value, then turn the 6S NiMh packs to a 2S LiPo pack. You'd get more range, more efficiency, and possibly turn it into plugin if you want.
You'd also be able to get some good cells within the ruined pack you could use for a solar setup or for a beat around bike.
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