new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

I know I posted that motor before but was not sure you guys looked at it.

I would like to get one but already have an 800W Unite motor which is 2750 rpm at 36V.
tnc scooter has the 72 tooth sprocket which bolts to the freewheel and electric scooter parts have the 10T dual d bore sprocket for the motor. Both 8mm
for 8mm chain. gearing for 800W will be about 29 mph.

That motor above however would be much simpler and any standard #410 bike chain would work and would also be a very good choice for a mid drive motor as you should be able to run it thru a derailleur for shifting gears.

It is almost 5PM and I just rolled out of bed. The first is only a few days away and I am looking at taking the 20" wheel down to the bike shop to get it trued on their stand for $15 and then putting the 80T #25 sprocket back on it and get my little 20" front drive cargo bike going. I will use the 10.0 6S pack for short runs to Wall-Mart and back and the 24" cargo bike I got now for downtown and around.

The 26" Diamond Back outlook will get the 800W 36V motor with 8mm chain and then it will be time to order two 10.0 or 16.0 4S packs for 32V which I can use on both cargo bikes. I will also need two new 6S packs for 44V.

Then I will be set until summer and can save up for the cro motor for the Haro V3 and the 6HP winch motor for the 29" mountain bike. thanks.

LC. out

 

[DrkAngel]

Too wide for mid-drive.

 

[latecurtis]

I am attempting one more time to make use of the #25 chain and 80T wheel sprocket. If it fails I will be moving on to 8 mm chain for this build.
The top pictures show that now that Doug made the axel longer on the sprocket side that the chain clears the fork and wood by about 3/8 of an inch maybe. Testing will be tomorrow.

Bottom pictures show that I will NOT be putting any type of hub motor on the front of that 29" bike. Obviouslly that fork is not suitable for the application. It is a very heavy duty frame though and will support a winch motor on the rear for approx. 40 to 45 mph absolute top speed. Not 50 mph or even close to it.

The picture of the back of the HARO V3 shows a serious competition heavy duty bike frame definatlly capable of a cro motor on the back. That may be my one and only 50 mph bike and we shall see this summer. Thanks again.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

10,000 miles... wow. I barely put that on my car in a year.

With a bike reliable to that distance, If I were LC, I would build a trike for my old lady, get army surplus camping equipment, wait until spring, and cycle around the US.

With all the exercise, not being able to carry so much booze, and the fresh air, he might even improve his health.

But thats just me.

LC had the same (eZip Trailz) type bike to begin with, but burnt up the motor by over-volting and dogging it up a hill at <2mph ...
Then, against all reasonable advice, embarked on this high rpm motor, giant wheel sprocket + chain ... journey?

 

[Sunder]

The picture of the back of the HARO V3 shows a serious competition heavy duty bike frame definatlly capable of a cro motor on the back. That may be my one and only 50 mph bike and we shall see this summer. Thanks again.

Sorry LC. I think you've uploaded the wrong photo. That photo shows a department store aluminium frame with a 135mm drop out, probably not more than 1/5th to 1/4 inch thick. We all know that wouldn't be good for more than a kilowatt, so let's have a good chuckle at that mistake.

Will wait for you to upload the proper photo with the 150mm wide, steel reinforced dropouts. You might want to include the torque arms you intend to attach to it, since even a DH bike wouldn't last all that long with 3+kw going through it.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

A Haro is not a cheap department store bike!

Maybe the cro motor wont fit on the Haro but you WONT find a Haro in any department store. I guess I will be installing a chain drive motor on it SOMEDAY !

Basically I have been deeply depressed these days. I did manage to get the chain on the 20" bike with the 80 tooth sprocket bolted to the freewheel but have been drinking until dawn and getting up an hour or less before dark and just playing pirates all day. Why ?

One reason is it rains EVERY DAY here. Not just some days EVERY DAY!!! :x

Basically I am questioning the sense in e bikes period. Out of 12 months how many days where it is nice and decent sunshine weather worthy of riding an e bike ? 10 maybe.

Also I did NOT get a 55" 4K TV because they don't meet my gaming standards .

1. 55" minimum.

2. HDR capable.

3. Display port for 65 frames per second at 4K resolution.

The cheaper TVs under $500 don't have these features. Also why build a gaming machine that will game in 4K if I don't have anything to hook it up to.

What this means is money I have to spend for Christmas ; $400 to $500 and what to spend it on.

Due to Bitter cold weather plus rain and snow and the fact that none of my e bikes are waterproof and none have a heater but my Pontiac Grand Am sitting outside in the driveway does have a heater and all it needs is a $40 Master cylinder to fix it. That plus insurance and DMV.

With my limited income and an older car , basically if I do that and have a car insurance bill every month there will be no further funds for ANY e bike project. Thanks.

LC, out.

 

[DrkAngel]

You should try being awake during daylight, been long periods of no rain ... and even some sun.
Weather.com "Weather in Motion" predicts rain, snow etc. for several hours ahead, makes planning trips very predictable, weather wise ...
Added fenders and tires with better tread and my eZips do just fine in the wet or rain.

My Winter eZip, the Snow Beast, runs great all Winter long!
Well, 6 Winters so far.
Fenders and studded tires turn a half hour trudge through the snow into a quick 5 minute jaunt

 

[DAND214]

You should try being awake during daylight, been long periods of no rain ... and even some sun.
Weather.com "Weather in Motion" predicts rain, snow etc. for several hours ahead, makes planning trips very predictable, weather wise ...
Added fenders and tires with better tread and my eZips do just fine in the wet or rain.

My Winter eZip, the Snow Beast, runs great all Winter long!
Well, 6 Winters so far.
Fenders and studded tires turn a half hour trudge through the snow into a quick 5 minute jaunt

I agree with you DA. Not much sun at night
So he only saw 10 nice days all year? I guess that is what you get if you sleep all day.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I was up about 12:30 today. Rainy and cloudy. I walked down to social services (welfare) My back was killing me from arthritis from days of inactivity. I saw myself in the store front windows and I looked like an 85 year old man walking at a snails pace. :lol: I had to get a new food stamp card as I lost the old one.

It was rainy a little so I could not take the bike. When I got home I felt better as the walk actually helped my back so I tried the 20" bike but the controller stopped working when I went to test it.

I was not surprised as it is the one that I hooked up backwards not once but three times. I checked the fuse and was good. Also the 10.0 -6S LiPo pack. It is charging now but was around 3.74V per cell when I tried it. It worked upstairs but when I got it downstairs it stopped working when I went to test it with me on the bike. Those controllers have a red light when they are on and I saw nothing.

the wheel being bent would probably popped that skinny chain off anyway so I guess it was a total failure from jump street. I guess I will look into some car insurance and get a price on that master cylinder this week coming up. I am not sure. i don't really need a car to get groceries and shopping as Wall- Mart and the grocery store are only 1/2 mile away.

My mother and brother and sister live about 40 miles away where all the Amish people are but I am really not that close to them. I am lucky if I go there once every two years. My son Jessie lives about 60 miles West of me but don't talk to him much either. The ol lady maybe go to the doctor once a year and same with me and can get there in 10 minutes on a bus which is only a few blocks away to catch.

I am not sure if it is worth making some insurance company rich not to mention the fact that paying insurance plus maintenance and repairs will put me so deep in the poor house I wont have any money to go anywhere anyway if I do put it on the road so what is the sense.

I will have to decide if it is worth putting any money on my pre pay card linked to my pay pal account to order any more e bike parts to finish these two builds or not. My question is what to do with these two motors if I don't build e bikes with them. I have an 800W 36V and a 500W 24V on the 20" bike. I know nobody approves of these chain drive builds but I really don't feel like throwing them out.

I also have a brand new 48V controller and two 36V controllers never used. I cant use them though for the 20" bike because the rpm is 2500@24V and would be way over-geared at 36V and 3,750 rpms. The 800W 36V Unite motor would work for either the Haro if I give up on a rear hub motor or the 26" Diamond Back outlook at Doug's house.

I really don't know what I should do at this point. My question is what would you guys do? Just throw everything in the garbage and ride the Schwinn and the 20" Diamond Back with the Hub motors or try to build two more chain drives using the parts I have and only order what is absolutely necessary to get them running. Please note that good working brakes will NOT be an issue once I get them to Dougs house as I have plenty of brakes and good parts there and Doug to hook them up. Please let me know.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Personally, if I were you, I would:

1. Do the minimum to finish the bikes off, and sell them for whatever I could get out of them.
2. Use the money to get a professionally made battery pack and fit it to the Schwinn
3. Pack a cut lunch and maybe two beers MAX into a backpack with an ice pack.
4. Get up around 8am, go for a nice nature ride around your area. Pedal a little for exercise. Eat lunch somewhere scenic, maybe take an afternoon nap.
5. Come home mid afternoon, spend time with the old lady
6. Watch some TV and have dinner. No more than one or two more beers.
7. In bed by 10pm.
8. Call it a good day.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea I used to go to the river and had a lot of friends who used to drink down there but it was usually 2 beers * 10 lol. The bike trail runs along the Mohawk river for about 30 miles at least. There are many party spots down there. We even had a little gang called the river rats. One of the guys who I grew up with 35 miles from here (Dave) and who moved here to Schenectady also was like the leader but due to his failing health due to alcoholism and being in and out of the hospital for seizures he lives with his mother out in the country and has a place in her basement. He still comes to Schenectady from time to time or he used to but am not sure if he is even living. We used to go down there a lot though and ride the trails.

I rarely ever go down there anymore but am sure some of the old timers still ride down there.(Roy and big AL in their 60s ) (Chainsaw or Mark 40s and expert bike guy mechanically inclined.) Shawn , Dave or 20 they call him and Mike from Scotia. Way back about five or six years ago Mike : they still call him electric bike Mike as he had one of the first ezip Curries that came out. At least 3 or 4 years before the one I got in 2013. He had it awhile and when the batteries died he sold it for $100 at his yard sale. It was about a year before I bought my ezip trailz and I was furious that he did not sell it to me. When he told me about it I had to pay the electric bill and did not have the money and saw him about a month later when he told me he sold it.

I did not know e bikes existed before that and will never give up on them. I enjoy working on them sometimes when I have the right parts and don't have to deal with bent wheels and thin #25 chain. :lol: Also I always wanted a Haro since the day I saw Dougs V2 back in 2014. Now I got the V3 series Haro and will never part with it. I will need to measure the width of the rear frame to see what size hub motor I can fit on it. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Picked me up a nice Haro Express Deluxe 700C ... few years ago.

24 spd with 32-11T rear sprockets.
I built a 700C 34 x 11T 8 speed wheel with eZip type rear hub for motor assist.

Possibility of 450w / 24V x 44.4V = 832w motor output ...
48 x 11T should allow assist right to 30mph.

More fun ...
Bike style allows lowering seat to a near chopper format.
Setting down behind a minor fairing might allow 30mph with motor alone?

22.2V for cruising at ~20mph and 44.4V (Turbo) for 30mph!

 

[latecurtis]

I already have the currie 26" rear wheel. It is over at Doug's house on the back of the 26" Black Diamondback outlook. In fact I think it was you that said the Currie izips were worth something so I kept the frame. The old motor is outside apart on my wash machine next to the dryer with the puffed up 10.0- 6S LiPo pack in it.

I was going to build the Diamondback at Doug's but would need to get a black factory rack to mount the motor. The Haro already has the Currie rack mounted on it and it looks good. It matches the bike. I might try to mount the 800W motor just like I did with the 1,000W unite motor when I installed it on the Currie. The only difference will be an upgrade to 8 mm chain as I can order that 72 tooth wheel sprocket and 10T 8mm motor sprocket. It will be geared for 29 mph at 800W. Slightly overgeared but am sure Doug can get at least 6 pedal gears working for pedal assist.

Thing is the Currie was my first build and best chain drive I ever built. It was that skinny #25 chain but it never popped off with over a year. I think it would still be running if I had not took the motor off to put it on a 20" bike and then the motor got broke as my friend hit it with a hammer to try to line up the sprockets. The 1,000W Unite motor on the back of the 24" cargo bike with the 20" wheel is not the same motor. It was my second 48V 1,000W Unite motor. The original is outside on top of the washer with the burned out Currie 450W motor.

I will also need a new 16 tooth south pole freewheel as that got destroyed with a hammer and chisel taking it off for a 20" wheel. That was because of the bitch landlady where I lived before who would not let me keep the bike down in the hallway and was too heavy to carry up those narrow stairs. Here I can lock it up down on my front porch. I am not sure yet if that is what I am doing but it is a thought. The drawback is the weight of Unite motors. If I were to go with a brushless low KV RC motor from Alien Power I could probably mount it the same way and have a 40 mph bike instead of a 30 mph bike with less than half the motor weight. Also if I can get 40 mph with 6S LiPo -22V then I wont need to order two 4S packs as the SLAs I have are garbage and way too heavy. Either way I am spending money. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 50 mph. :lol: :lol: :lol:

I just went to sprocket calculator and a 44 tooth wheel sprocket will be perfect for a 11T motor sprocket.

24V 1400 rpm = 27 mph.

36V 2100 rpm = 40 mph

48V 2800 rpm = 53 mph.

I am on my way to Wall Mart now to deposit the money on my card and will be ordering the motor when I return.

I just wanted to check what I will need for a 44T sprocket for #420 heavy duty chain and it is this 5 hole freewheel. Please let me know if it will fit on the Currie rim. I am building it no matter what and only going 27 mph with the 6S LiPo packs I have now. I don't have 36V or 44V right now. That wont happen until this summer so please help me to build this bike as safely as possible for 27 mph right now. It wont be anyone's fault but my own if I hook it up to 36V or 44V later on. As of NOW it will be a 27 mph build. Please let me know.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

those on the top I just ordered.

I was thinking about ordering the motor but three things stopped me.

1. Shipping is over $30

2. What sprocket if any will fit on that motor for #420 bicycle chain.

3. What controller will work for the motor at 36V and 48V 3 to 5 kilowatts ?

I am not dumb enough to order something for $135 that I cant use.

That on the bottom is the replacement freewheel for the back currie wheel I just ordered.
I will need that if I use the 800W motor with the back Currie wheel for the Black Diamondback or the Haro V3. Whichever bike I decide to put it on. Thanks again for posting.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

LCs eZip build, "usable" for 9 1/2 months ...

Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:13 pm

..

Removed motor for 20" build ...

Thu Jun 04, 2015 3:47 pm

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. New ezip motor.

If I never took the motor off it it would probably still be running. I drove that thing thru fields and everything. One time when I changed the back tire I drove it about 3 miles round trip and realized when I got home that I never put the lug nuts on it.

Basically I can hook it up the same way to the Haro with the 800 watt motor and the same 80 tooth sprocket that was on the Currie.
The 80 tooth It is on the 20" wheel now but I will be taking it off tomorrow the 56T spoke kit will go on the 20" wheel instead for the front chain drive and 24V Unite motor.

I will be removing the 56 tooth spoke sprocket tomorrow from the 29" wheel and put it on the 20" wheel so the #25 80T freewheel sprocket will be ready for the new freewheel when it comes in the mail.

Gearing will not be perfect though as the original Currie motor was 48V and 3.000 rpm running at 36V and 2250 rpm@750W
The Haro will be 36V and 2750 rpm but 800W instead of 750W. gearing will = 29 mph. The Currie was geared for 24 mph.

The 20" bike will be over-geared with the 56T also but I will deal with it. i just wont take it downtown. That is where the big hills are.
The 56T sprocket on the front with the 20" wheel will also be geared for 29 mph at 500W unfortunately.

When the new 11T #410 dual D bore sprocket shows up the 20" bike will be ready for the new controller.
I am not spending $80 or more for a 110T Custom spoke sprocket for proper gearing. I will walk up the hills for exercise first. Thanks.

LC. out.

It is 6:47 AM and I drinking a Budweiser and got to thinking. How about turning the Currie into an electric chopper. :lol:
I never ride the Blue 20" Diamondback. "Too much motor" DA once said. I ride it so I know. That little bike only needs a 450W motor at 24V like the stock Currie motor was. It could be a canadate for a little friction drive build someday.

however the big 26" Currie would be a perfect Cargo bike with that motor. Pedal assist and chopper forks could make it possible. At 36V it wont be 800W but 600W which is plenty of power and should work with torque arms of course. The Currie frame is set up for SLAs in the triangle already so this will give it an added weight distribution asset.

Kind of Ironic. My first build and the name of this post and my longest successful chain drive build which I ruined for the 20" DimondBack BMX bike. And now the Diamondback hub motor will be the new ezip motor. Will the Diamondback get a new motor ? yes it will but may be on time out for awhile like the Currie was. :lol:

I guess I could use my SLAs. Maybe Disk brakes in the back if I can find a rim for it. Doug is my brake guy and builds mountain and BMX style bikes so I will make brakes happen for the front. Top speed will only be 18 mph anyway with 600W. Good Quality chopper forks and proper torque arms will be in place. Please let me know what you think.

Below are the links for the 29" build. (motor and controller)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/391522052492?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-Electric-Permanent-Magnet-DC-Motor-Model-P66LR006-36V-3-6HP-/201348228423?hash=item2ee14a2547:g:CY4AAOSwLnBX4AYe

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

So you are going to put a 26" wheel on a 29" frame?
I forgot, You don't need no stinkin Brakes!
MAKES SENSE TO NE :?

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 1


NO !

The 20" hub motor/wheel which is on the front of the 20" Diamondback for the front of the Currie 26" mountain bike.
They make plenty of aftermarket suspension chopper forks. I never ruled out front brakes. They just may ned to be custom. The 20" hub motor is NOT set up for disk so some other type of brake system would need to be implemented.

Perhaps some of those forks come with V brake or U brake options. I am not totally sure however I do know they come in different custom lengths. I will just need to figure out what length will make the bike look good with the 20" wheel on the front and see what brake options will work. If the forks are made for a 20" wheel and are long enough to look good on a 26" bike and will FIT then those would be the best choice.

It is not something I will be ordering on the fly. It will require some measurements taken of the Currie bike frame. Then the forks have to fit in the currie goose-neck and third will or should be compatible for U brakes or at least V brakes for a 20" wheel. rear brakes will be no problem so the bike will have the option to stop and it wont be overpowered at 36V and 600W. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Once again ...
Powerful front hub motor is suicidal!
Going chopper multiplies the danger!!!

 

[latecurtis]

That is a picture I found on google. Above your last post DA.
I would not use those handlebars though. The seat would be nice however. The forks would need to be able to attach brakes without too much modification and the forks would not necessarily need to be at a 45% angle either. They just need to be long enough to fit the 20" wheel on the front with the frame sitting in its normal position. That should make it more stable vs extra long 45% forks. In other words it would be a low profile chopper look and if the forks are strong enough plus torque arms and working brakes I don't see how 18 mph would be a problem with that motor.

I am thinking about putting the rear Currie wheel and 72 tooth freewheel sprocket on the outlook with the 800W 36V motor instead of the Haro V3. I still want a powerful rear hub motor for the Haro. The most powerful Hub motor that will fit.

On my way to Wall-Mart to pay for internet and pick up a 26" tube for the 26" Diamondback outlook. I am picking it up at Dougs tommorow and bringing over the Currie frame. We are going to take measurements of the front forks. Like I said I don't want a radical chopper look and also want front brakes to happen for the Currie ezip upgrade.

The 20" hub wheel motor is a heavy hauler and geared for hills and is perfect for a large cargo basket on the back with the front motor and SLAs mounted in the triangle. If I can't make front and rear brakes happen then I wont do it. If you know of quality strong front forks long enough to do the job and work for brakes on a 20" wheel please post a link. Thanks.

LC. out.

http://prntscr.com/df3y2d

http://alexwetmore.org/archives/541.html

http://prntscr.com/df3z72

It don't even have to be a chopper fork. Just a fork long enough to work for a 26" bike with a 20: wheel and be able to install front brakes without much or any modifications.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. batteries n builds.

I gave up on 50 mph for now and 3 kilowatt motors so that I could finish the other builds so I wont have a bunch of motors and controllers laying around. Basically the Haro V3 and the big 29" mountain cruiser are not going any where so I am waiting until summertime to build them.

I wish for once though since I DID NOT buy a winch motor or cro motor and am only talking about an 800W motor at 48V and 600W at 36V that you all could encourage and support what I want to do with the Currie and the 20" hub motor.

No one knows better than myself how snotty that little 800W beast is on take off. Why I prefer 36V over 48V for that motor.
I definitely wont ride it if I cant make the brakes work. Even if I have to shell out an extra $30 to get the brake bracket welded the front WILL have brakes. The same goes with the dropouts of the forks whatever fork I use I will spend $50 for good torque arms if need be and probably still pedal up to 5 or 7 mph before engaging the throttle.

I already learned my lesson with that silver Specialized back at the beginning of this post. The 1,000W Hub motor Sunder sent. I snapped those dropouts on take off out in front of my old apartment. After that I moved the motor to a Trek and later on to the Schwinn. I have much fear and respect for that 20" hub motor as it has more torque at 48V than the 1'000W 26" hub motor. Basically what I am saying is IF I can find forks which will work they WONT be cheap aluminium pop metal.

I know I may LOOK like a complete idiot from some of my earlier posts and pictures but I went to college and took material science technology and got a B in that class. What can I tell you that I actually remember. lol

Well besides the superposition theories which relate to the extremely high energy states of electrons with multiple orbits around a nucleolus
The electrons appear to occupy multiple positions in space time simultaneity I recall a few things concerning metal alloys and tensile strength.

I know iron is brittle and breaks easily but very hard and steel is not as hard but will bend and give a little and wont snap into pieces like that cheap aluminum. chromoly is something I do not remember learning but if it is stronger than steel and wont snap like pop metal I would use it. Chromoly or hardened steel are what the forks should be plus quality torque arms.

I feel it would be cheaper and easier to modify extra long forks or chopper/low-rider forks to work with a 20" wheel than weld and modify the bike frame like in that link up above.. Please let me know if there is something which would work good without costing a fortune. Thanks.

Also I was wondering about using 5S LiPo packs instead of 4S with one of these 36V controllers I will need for the 26" Diamondback build.
I don't ever want to run SLAs again except for the Currie as they mount in the frame. I know for a fact the 20" hub motor as well as the 1,000W hub motor on the Schwinn will run 36V SLA as I already have many times and I will need to with the Currie when the SLAs die which wont be long when I get it running. 5S LiPo will work better than 4S with either of these controllers right ? I am thinking about low LVC. It should be well below the CAP limit right ? Please let me know.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Bit unrelated, but since you're mentioning 50mph. Here's what 50mph looks like up a hill electrically:

Just fitted those 9 Multistars. Yes, they're putting out 23kw. Holy shit this bike is frightening. That's 90km/h or 56mph up a moderate hill.

 

[DAND214]

Sunder, that is the new scooter, isn't it?

LC, I don't think you will be able to run less than 36v nominal on that controller. Peak voltage 10s should be about 42v and LVC should be around 32v, if it has one. You know if you apply the throttle slowly the 20" hub motor will be great. Maybe the throttle is bad. It's sure easier to run 12s or 44v than having a 24v a 36v and a 44v. One fits all and that makes it simpler and safer, since you only have one pattern all the time. Are the packs I sent done? I'm still using some now at 66v or 18s on my Diamondback. Still stay balanced just bulk charging and are still around 8ah and I can get over 24 miles our of. It is my low power bike for the winter I hope.

We got about 6 inches of that white crap today, Coming your way, hope it misses you. It's the heavy stuff.

I know you will do as you please but just trying to help as always. Not trying to put you down. build your chopper with the frt hub with torque arms and a steel fork. That will work and should be a neat setup for you. I also like the fact that you are looking to use BRAKES


Dan

 

[Sunder]

Yeah, that's the scooter. It's a whole difference world working with 150v systems.

You feel like everything is potentially lethal. I shorted the battery by accidentally melting through the insulation while working on a different terminal. Molten metal everywhere. Thankfully no injuries, in fact, some burned specks on my shirt.