new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Do they make a water proof throttle ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Electric-Bicycle-Waterproof-7-8-Thumb-Throttle-Left-Right-Throttle-/262346004007?hash=item3d150a5627:g:iZAAAOSwvFZW7~TK

I guess they do.

Price is good also. since hub motors are waterproof I should order it for the Schwinn and get a plastic storage box large enough for the cash box with the LiPos and if I use a PCV elbow I should be able to run the wires out thru it.

I will still have to fix the front tire though.

It is all doable and easier then a lot of things I have already done. There is only one big thing which stands in my way. laziness.

Thanks

LC out.


Well I guess that what I went to college for ;electrical technology , and my previous hobby and fascination with the audio field especially low frequency sub-woofer technology has collided with DC motor technology. I am impressed !!

about 15 to 20 years ago I had ambitions of installing custom folded horn band pass in closets with the bass ports as large air vents professionally installed in the walls over the closet doors. real walk in closets doubling as folded horn bass enclosures similar to Bose and decware designs. two 18" or 24" sub woofers with massive magnets were what I had in mind and about four in each closet or two in each in isobaric push pull mode and approx 500 watts rms input with at least 30 db of dynamic headroom would have been required.

Now we have this. No big amplifier required. A decent 200 watt home built tube amplifier could do the trick. lol.

DA . what do you think ? you are a few levels above me in electrical technology. Can you help me build these ? the rotary sub and a nice tube amp like this only about 200 watts (RMS) for each rotary sub. and five surround channels with horn drivers covering 40 HZ to 20 KHZ. :lol: We can make it big in the audio industry.

things like that might be worth getting out of bed for. I sleep as I am board with my life. And I am a very lazy alcoholic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7Bkrypxzs4

http://www.decware.com/newsite/SE84CKCS.html


I know that one of these two may fit in the rear basket of the 20" dual motor setup. Two 8" or possibly a two 10" woofers in isobaric push pull mode would stiffen the cones so the box could be approx. 50% smaller I could also remove the rear basket and bolt it directly to the rack. It would be louder than most cars with the right amp.

http://www.decware.com/newsite/DBK10II.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=autotuba&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS734US734&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjk6qWsv-DUAhVLPT4KHTRqCboQ_AUICygC&biw=1863&bih=954

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/27361-can-i-build-horn-small.html

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK0_x32ln3I

I am not seeing what I am looking for. I googled a 100 mph push trailer.

It does not seem like I am finding a 125 cc dirt bike frame and the price on the 1,500 watt rear hub kit for the Haro V3 went up about $30'

It seems like a DeathPush trailor is in order. :lol: :lol: :lol:

DeathPush. :lol: Is that the name of a band or something.?

I will need some help with the FX motor. It is set up for a belt ?

What do I do ? How mdo I hook it up ?

Please let me know. I may be able to break a world speed record or something. If I can find someone crazy enough to go 100 mph with it.

 

[latecurtis]

Was wondering if any of you old timers remember SuperDave Osbern.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_Dave_Osborne

Well whoever rides it when I am done building it can wear the costume.

https://www.google.com/search?q=the+costumer&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS735US735&oq=the+costumer&aqs=chrome.0.0l6.4855j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=the+costumer+schenectady

We can get it made there or a similar one not exact to avoid a lawsuite but can be used in a video. Full crash helmet.

Let me know who is in. :lol: Yes I am drinking and laughing but am considering it also. Thanks.


LC out.

 

[Sunder]

8 backers... A maximum of two of which pledged to buy one.

Should give you a good idea how well these kinds of things work. If they were any good, they'd be flying out the door.

Coincidentally, I found out not long ago, that the FX motor came out of a Zero motorcycle. Best use of it in my opinion? Fit it back into an FX motorcycle and ride that

No point buying one now that I have the Vectrix, but I'm thinking when I move to the UK, I might get one then.

 

[latecurtis]

WoW. Holy smoke batman .

I did not expect a post that fast.

cool.

I don't think it would hurt to try one though on that 1,800 watt brushless motor


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1800W-48V-Brushless-Electric-DC-Motor-for-ATV-Go-Kart-Scooter-Parts-/132096949043?hash=item1ec1977b33:g:GlwAAOSwOgdYo81N

I could build the push trailor super heavy duty and use that first I guess to see how it would handle.

But why spend the money if I can use it to hook up a real motor. I believe that for the rated 45 killowatts the FX motor puts out over 100 volts are required.
I could start a lot lower to get a feel and see how it handles before buying more batteries.

I don't know. I do know I am board and want to build something. :lol: Thanks.

Basically what I see is how much speed will the rider be able to do without turning into a big chicken on two wheels. :lol: :lol:

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-500W-Electric-Bicycle-E-bike-Scooter-Brush-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-/162157236578?hash=item25c1531162:g:htIAAOSwnQhXobsP

Basically I will need that to run the 16 AH 6S pack as it has not been run since the variable controller on the 24" cargo bike burned out. I hooked the 36V controller but am finished with SLA.

I have three SLA left and will keep for testing motors and bikes like for around the block but for e biking around wont trust them.

the Currie has the 10.0 - 6S pack and the 24" cargo bike will be exclusive to the 16.0 - 6S pack.

I could order one of those 36V Lion packs DA posted and a charger but why when I have 6S LiPo already available and two 6S chargers. It is cheaper to order the 24V controller.

Also I will be building the Haro before the FX project. I need a welder and a good stripped out dirt bike frame for that. A tough rugged offload frame capable of around 100 horsepower gas as 60 horsepower electric is equal to approx 90 horsepower gas so the frame should be rated for 80 horsepower gas minimum to 120 horsepower maximum.

Therefore I shall wait on the FX project so I can do it right. I am guessing about two to three years. For the Haro V3 project hopefully by September. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

Good to see you are still around LC.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

Good to hear from you also Dan.

Today is a nice day for a spin on the ezip. I am going to the Home Depot when the 10.0 - 6S pack gets fully balanced charged. It was above 3.7V and just put it on the charger.

I am reinstalling the motor on the 24" cargo bike like I did with the Currie. The sprockets don't really line up properly and the bolts are basically shot. I need it to be an easy job if I have to change a back tire, not a nightmare. After I fixed the motor I could not get the sprockets to line up perfect and do not want to grind down the motor sprocket either so it resembles a mini Ninja Deathstar like what happened about two years ago. :lol:

I will probably order a variable controller like is what is on the Currie. They are cheap with the built in pot so can order two for about $14 in case one is defective. I will probably order the two of those 36V Lion pack and a charger next month for the bikes also.

There is still a couple months of summer left so am not giving up on the Haro or the FX project. I simply do not have extra $$$ right now for any big projects. Hopefully that will change in the near future. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Loose chain. 10 minute fix.

Yes the Currie has probably gone about 50 miles total. About 6 miles today and even though it ran perfect today I noticed the chain was kind of loose. I was worried that it would become a total nightmare but it was not.
The bolts were all a little loose so I only needed to loosen them a little more and had a small scrap piece of wood and a hammer to tap the bracket forward about 1/2 inch or so on each side to make the chain tighter but not too tight. I tested it with the 10.0 - 6S pack and it spins perfectly. the sprockets line up

Now I am going to attempt to reinstall the motor on the 24" cargo bike. It will take longer than 10 minutes but should not take three or four hours either as I have done this several times before.
I still need to fix the front tire as well as the front tire on the Currie. Also I will order two more of the $7 variable controllers with the built in pot. Next month I will try and order two of the 36 volt Lion packs DA posted a few pages back. I may order two of those waterproof thumb throttles I posted also.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6Ftr01nJ08&feature=youtu.be

I might as well charge the 10.0 - 6S pack now as I forgot to pick up a 24" tube at Wall-Mart and you see now why those two videos I did with the 24" cargo bike shook so much. It was the tire.
Also it has been over a month since I ran Dan's old packs with the beast (20" dual motor heavy duty cargo bike) I will need to pick up a 26" tube for the front tire on the Schwinn. It is set up and ready to run the only 44 volt set up I have which are those old LiPo packs in the cash box. The large cash box which used to have an ice cube tray on top of it.

I am also glad I got the 24" cargo bike motor fixed as I have the small cash box with my 16 AH - 6S LiPo pack (two 8.0 packs in parallel). I have not run that in several months since the variable controller burned out. I will need another variable controller though and since they are cheap I will order two so I have a spare. Thanks



. LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

The motor is lined up

the battery rack is smaller and moved forwards for better weight distribution

The new inner tube is installed in a new straight wheel and a better tire.

Not sure what to do now. The battery rack is set up for three 10 AH SLAs but I really want those 36V Lion packs but do not know if they will fit.
It is $48 for three new 10 AH SLAs but for a couple dollars more I can get one 36 volt Lion pack and a Lion charger. I may just keep the battery rack on it and order the two variable controllers so I can run my 6S LiPo packs for now. At 500 watts and 1,500 rpm I get about 15 mph and can go up all the little hills just not the big hills but I rarely need to climb the steep hills anyway. Thanks.

LC. out

 

[DAND214]

The last picture? Are you going to ride with that SCREW/DTUD straight up near your crotch? Am I seeing it correct or not?

Dan

 

[Sunder]

LC is a bit old to be wanting more kids anyway...

But seriousky, I agree. Looks good, but you need to give your bike a more professional finish by making more of the bolts the right length. I guess you can redo it once you are finished and have final dimensions.

 

[latecurtis]

yes.

The seat is high enough to keep my junk away from the screw however if I were to crash it could cause serious injury. However I would probably land on the SLAs.
The purpose of it is for the small bungee cords I use to hold the SLA batteries in place.

If you click on the picture it gets bigger. The thing is if I use three 10 AH SLAs it will allow me to put maximum weight in the rear cargo basket especially now that the battery rack is towards the front.
However SLAs are terrible performance wise. Also the ones in the picture are lucky if they can make it to Wall-Mart and back which is about a mile round trip.

That factor plus all the rain we have been getting makes me think about further modifications to the battery rack.

I will need a plastic Tupperware container screwed from the bottom in the center to the wood on each side and the bottom will stick out on either side with holes drilled for ventilation and it will have an airtight/waterproof plastic lid of course. However it would be easy for a thief to grab and rip off taking my batteries and controller. That is the downside.

I am weighing the pros and cons before I decide which type batteries I will order. I really do not want to order more SLAs though but do want to run the 16 AH - 6S pack in the small cash box which mounts in the front basket. I can put a plastic bag over the top of the front basket and still get a waterproof thumb throttle. That plus a chain and lock in the front basket gives good weight distribution also.
I have to decide though if I want SLAs for backup batteries for 36V performance or the Lion packs. The Lion packs will be better up hills and will last longer however two packs (recommended) will cost me almost $85 with a charger where I can get 3 - 10AH absorbed glass matt high quality SLAs delivered for $48

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pack-12V-10AH-10-amp-SLA-Replacement-Battery-for-Neuton-Mowers-E0683-310-/152429866472?hash=item237d872de8:g:aDYAAOSwsTxXiXHg

however

Two Lion batteries and the 36V controller can be housed inside mounted to the sides of the container somehow. Add a thumb throttle which is waterproof and I have a waterproof e bike.
I should be able to do something similar with the Currie. I am not putting a basket on the Currie as it is not a cargo bike. That is what the 24" bike is for. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wtZ2rajqJc&feature=youtu.be

The SLAs are definitely shot as full charge fresh off the charger and only 17 mph. A video I did a few months ago the speedometer read 21 mph at 36V with the same SLAs.

Cant win. Brand new tube and when i pulled up to Family Dollar the tire was flat as a pancake and I had to ride it home on the flat after shopping. I got better tubes at Wall-Mart afterwards but am waiting until tomorrow to fix in daylight as I am not hauling that thing back upstairs again. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

had the bike outside and fixed the tire. took the SLAs down yesterday but got dark and no light outside so did not get them hooked up. was going to do laundry today with it as it has the large rear cargo basket on it now.

Woke up at about 4 PM and thunderstorm and downpour. It was not covered so everything is soaking wet. It is a lost cause. I am bring it in to dry tomorrow between the raindrops and am finished with e bikes for awhile. It will be quite awhile before i ride one again.

I will use a shopping cart for the laundry and might work on waterproofing the bikes. This means I have to order a waterproof thumb throttle for each bike I plan on riding so one for the Currie and one for the 24" cargo bike.

Also I will need to build something that will keep the batteries and controller dry and also remove all the strips of gorilla tape to the wires going to the kill switches and put clear 100% silicone around and cover the terminals where the wire screws on.

It will be hours of work to properly waterproof one e bike let alone two. It is why electric bikes are not practical and normal people ride in a car or a truck. windshield wipers and heaters in the winter.
There is barley any decent weather here now for electric bikes. It has rained all spring and summer and winter is too cold and slippery roads. It just is not practical and I need to grow up and sell most of these bikes so I can put my Dodge Caravan on the road so I can go anywhere I want almost anytime I want instead of sitting in the house every summer. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Most all eBikes are "waterproof"!
or rather ... "Weather Resistant".
Even the cheap kits are designed to hold up in the wet or mud or snow ...

I've run my eZips through pouring rain, deep slush and foot deep snow.
Rescued a still functional eZip that was left outside in the rain and snow for 2 years ... still ran perfectly, motor wise.

Seems you just made the poor choice of motors with air vents and interior duty pot controllers.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Maybe I should pick up some cheese to go with my whine.

I talked to my friend Reaper after my last post who is one of my best friends on the pirate game. We had a talk on discord which is a software program where you can talk to anyone in the world if you have speakers and a microphone which my laptop has.

Reaper said it is 116 degrees where he lives in California close to the desert. He is a business man who does import and export and I think he said 170 boxes were accidentally shipped to his house instead of a warehouse in New York. He had to go out in his garage and change the shipping labels in that heat. He said he is used to it as it is like an engine room so I think he was in the navy.

I should be happy I don't have to deal with that kind of heat. I would not live in the desert if I was paid $1,000 a week to live there in a $500,000 house. It would have to be an Oasis with property like a famous movie star or professional ball player. Any way you look at it we are better off where we are DA. You have lakes rivers and mountains to enjoy as I do here in the northeast part of NY.
We are lucky and who cares if it rains. What else important do I have to do but figure a way to make my bike water resistant. Thanks for posting and good to hear from ya.

LC out.

6:36 AM. I talked to the ol lady's son Johnny. He is the one who likes the Schwinn and the one with the hub motor is better than the one hanging on the porch. It is an awesome bike and John said $500.
However the front hub motor Sunder sent me is on the front. I am not selling it I am keeping it.

THE NEXT BIG THING. ---As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. SUPER HARO.

Yes ladies and gentlemen. I have a plan. As much as I love the Schwinn frame I never ride it and I want a hot rod bike. I will buy a rear 48V 1,000 watt rear hub motor for the Schwinn and charge Johnny whatever a 1,500 watt rear 48 volt hub motor cost. Maybe $50 or $75 more as the Bike and my time is worth at least that.

The Haro V3 will have the 48 volt 1,000 watt hub ,motor Sunder sent on the front and a 1,500 watt 48 volt rear hub motor on the back. It will get to 30 mph quick and top out at 35 mph but a 60 volt 100 amp controller upgrade both motors in parallel could get me 40 mph and 35 very quickly. How quick is what I want to know. Please let me know. Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1500W-Direct-Drive-REAR-700C-eBike-Kit-Electric-Bicycle-Ebikeling/272560419288?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44770%26meid%3D600c182030004081a985f800b97b1b39%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D332292822946

Ok this is the sweetest deal going on now. 1600 watt option for no extra charge. However it is 700cc and the Haro is only 26" Not sure if it will fit. The 26" 1,500 watt motors are out of stock. Please let me know.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

700 will not fit. Gotta be a lot more 1500+ motors out there.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

yes . I kind of figured that.

The thing is I don't know if I will have the $$$ anyway. Money has been so tight this month I could not afford to put $20 on my card which is minimum. I wanted to order a couple of those variable controllers with the built in pot so I can run my 16.0 - 22V pack with the 24" cargo bike and I could not even do that. I just paid $228 for my energy bill last night.

Also those 36V packs DA posted. No money.

I will make it until next month without going broke but have to drink beer in cans now and I prefer bottles, either Budweiser or Miller High life. Now I am drinking 25 oz Bud Ice in the can. I don't drink them fast enough to get drunk and only 3 or 4 cans a night. I usually finish off most of a 12 pack in the bottles but less than 5% alcohol by volume wont get me drunk in 4 or 5 hours as the body gets rid of about 16 oz an hour so I am probably legal to drive most of the time I drink.

Basically I am not a big alcoholic as some people think if you drink every day. I believe a real alcoholic will reach a blood alcohol level close to or greater than double the legal limit to drive on a daily basis and that would require chugging a lot of beer quickly or liquor to maintain that level for any period of time especially if you weigh over 200 pounds. Also hard core alcoholics usually don't eat at least two decent size meals a day as I do and usually start drinking in the morning or when they wake up. I don't. However I am due for a good drunk as I have not drank liquor since new years I think. However even with liquor I am a lightweight as I don't drink anything straight and usually prefer 99 bananas mixed with fruit juice and after 4 or 5 - 8 oz cups I am done and either stop for the night or switch over to beer.

So basically I spend at least $200 a month drinking and the ol lady smokes about $200 in cigarettes each month. That is a lot of money for bad habits and neither one of us wants to quit our habit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBgi0as59yA&feature=youtu.be

Also I spend lots of time playing Pirates Tides of Fortune and had to clean and change my aquariums around. I had a few algae eaters die and big ones are expensive to replace so a couple of my tanks were covered with green algae and I had to work on them. It took a few days and had to build another stand for one of the aquariums. I am also working on my e bike workshop cleaning and organizing my tools. Another thing which cost money is fish-worms. At least three cartons of 18 a week 53 six to 8 inch Canadian Night-crawlers a week as I feed them all worms three times a week. On the other days they get cooked chicken , steak or scrambled eggs. :lol: :lol: that is except for the eels. They only eat worms and are good for two or three each two to three times a week. It adds up to about $10 each week for the worms.

Also I try to walk at least a mile a day as it is the only exercise I get but my leg has been bothering me lately as I was supposed to have total knee replacement surgery four years ago. It is why I cannot pedal. Some people say I should but the Ortho doctor did not recommend any physical therapy. He told me it would not help. He said I need Total Knee replacement surgery. The bones were actually touching in the stress X ray. It is nothing short of a miracle I have walked as long as I have but am really glad I have five electric bikes built as I will need to rely on them more as my life progresses and my health regresses.

It is why I have not posted much. The 24" bike sits downstairs with the Currie covered up with an air mattress to keep them dry. The 24" cargo bike has the SLAs in it ready to go but am afraid to go to Wall-Mart with it as it may not make it back and that is only a mile round trip.

The Currie I have run a couple times in the last week with the 10.0 - 22V LiPo pack and variable controller. but that is it. I understand why DA likes those Currie ezips as they are a comfortable ride and reliable although he uses a different gear reduction motor. The original 450 watt that came with the Currie or a bolt in replacement. I prefer a motor with a minimum rating of 750 watts or 1 HP however regardless of weather I run it at 22, 36 or 44V because it is just a more durable motor for the extra weight. I weigh about 260 and the picture DA posted quite a few pages back I would guess 100 pounds lighter than me so those 450 watt motors work good for him. I burnt out the original 450 watt Currie at 36 volts and 675 watts so I wont buy another. Thanks.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

You tortured the eZip motor to death by gearing for 23mph (@36V) then slogging it up a steep hill, full throttle, at <2mph(?).

That's, 36V x 35A = 1260w into motor ...
at 2mph, that might be 160w maximum motor output and 1100w minimum damaging heat inside the motor.
Might burn up in seconds!!!

I've put over 10,000 miles each on 2 eZips, with no motor issues.
Did lose a bearing in one gear reduction @ 8000 miles ... $3 replacement.

Guess I must either gear properly for intended use or just use at their capability

Your problem is that you keep gearing negatively.
Gearing for higher than the watt output capability.
Great ... only if you plan on pedaling forcibly and continuously for maximum speed, otherwise you have restricted torque and speed at increased battery and motor abuse at reduced speed and range capability ...

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VozhbnhemE&feature=youtu.be

I think my Currie e zip is currently geared correct.
20 mph at 36 volts and 750 watts.

Yes back when I burned out the 450 watt motor I did not know about gearing. It is something you, DA and others here on ES have taught me. I had a professional install the 36 volt controller back then also and he did not touch the stock gearing. He was an older guy in his 50s or 60s and electrical engineer. He had an expensive house; eccentric type and his bike I saw at grocery store with lots of safety lights hooked to a custom battery rack. When I asked he said a car hit him awhile back in the rear I think. The guy gave me his number and address and I went there.

He had solar panel system for charging batteries on his garage roof and a car that was expensive and looked like it was never driven. There was a sign on the door stating trespassers will be shot and he was not kidding. He had a sniper rifle in his kitchen and a DC motor on a stand. He claimed 12 years of college in electrical engineering and he seemed sincere.He had a small business but forgot the name. Was on a card he gave me. He was legit but terribly expensive. Wanted to charge around $650 but gave me a break as he did not tell me how much it would be before doing the job.

The coolest guy ever except the $260 bill for the work he did. It took me almost a year to pay it off. He installed the 36 volt controller and three 22 AH SLAs in the triangle. Lord knows how much he would have charged to fix the original Currie motor. Probably three times what I paid for the 1,000 watt motor I bought. It was the original gearing for 24 volts and 450 watts.I believe if I weighed 100 pounds less or about 150 pounds when I did that the Currie motor may still be running. It would have got hot but not burned out. It is a strong motor I will admit that.

All five of my e bikes are geared properly at this time. The 24" cargo bike is slightly over geared at about 24 mph for 36V and 750 watts but the Dual motor bike is 1,000 watts total with 20 mph gearing and goes up small to medium size hills at approx 17 mph which I have shown in videos. The other two bikes are stock factory Hub motors so none of my e bikes are over-geared now.

The 24" cargo bike was questionable with 32.5 mph gearing at 48 volts and 1,000 watts but took the same hill that killed the original Currie motor at 36 volts and 750 watts I did not get the video but the alligator clips were smokin and I posted the pictures. They also almost melted a hole in the SLA. However the motor was barley hot. It also hit 29 mph on the flat with 44V in a video I posted. At 44V LiPo every bike I have now will take the hill however the dual motor bike which I did the video of will be a close run with the Diamond Back 800 watt hub motor that DA refereed to as the Heavy hauler. The Currie and 24" cargo bike will also make that hill easily at 44 volts. 36 volts is a struggle though and probably more strain on the motors.

Yes if the original Currie motor was geared for 17 mph at 36 volts and 675 watts it could still be running. I will buy that, but my 750 watt gear reduction motor will take a big hill at 44 V much better than the old Currie motor as the 750 watt gear reduction motor is rated at 36 volt and 480 rpm so will run at 44V. The original Currie motor will get really hot at 44V and probably would not last long even with 17 mph gearing. However for a 150 to 180 pound man the 450 watt motor is definitely enough as it had a lot of power for it's size but when you weigh 260 pounds I feel am better off with the extra power. We will see eventually how well my Currie does at 44V. I bet it makes it up Crane st. hill without a problem and wont get too hot either. We shall put it to the test. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

 

[Sunder]

It's not impossible to fit a 700c wheel into some 26" bikes. I've done it, using "longarm" calipers. They're like V-brakes that can slide up and down several inches.

The result is not as good as a 700c/29er (geometry and braking all just feel wrong) and its not cheap, so unless you have an emotional attachment to the bike, you're better off selling a working 26" and getting the right frame, but hey, the option is there.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. They made it.

The old used and abused SLAs made it to the grocery store and back which is about a mile round trip maybe. I went the longer way instead of Crane st. as I have no brakes at all which sucks. However going Chrysler av. there is only one really small hill to deal with and to keep the SLAs going, 10 mph is about the maximum speed I need to travel. Maybe I should not have threw out the other three as if I did not go full throttle for a video they may be capable of making the same trip but it is too late now.

I also had to go to another store about 8 blocks away or between 1/2 and 3/4 mile. I did that with the Currie and the 10.0 - 22V pack. Both bikes are running as good to be expected for chain drives. The Currie actually runs perfect but less than 15 mph with the lower gearing. It really needs 44V to get any performance out of it but it will get me from point A to point B as long as it is not a steep hill.

It should do better than the 24" cargo bike up hills as the gearing is lower than the 24" bike but it seems slower. The 24" cargo bike is geared for 32.5 mph at 48 volts , 1,000 watts and 3,000 rpm. The Currie with the 36V gear reduction motor is geared for 28 mph at 48 volts, 1,000 watts and 640 rpm however the Currie does not seem to have the power up hills at 22V then the higher geared bike does. That is a mystery I need to solve. Could it be the controller ? The Currie runs a regular Chinese 24V controller with a thumb throttle and the 24" bike used to have the variable controller before it burned out but seemed better at 22V LiPo than the Currie with the gear reduction motor.

I have an extra speedo. so when I get another variable controller next month I will test both bikes with 22V. The 24" bike with the 16.0 - 22V pack and the Currie with the 10.0 - 22V pack. Both will be 500 watts and gearing at 24V (full charge) . 13.5 mph for the Currie and the 24" cargo bike is 16.25 mph. eventually I will have 44V for both bikes. The 24" bike already hit 29 mph with the old 44V packs The Currie is geared for 28 mph at 48 volts so may not be faster than the 24" bike. We shall see.

The 24" cargo bike still makes a lot of noise. clacketty clack. The chain is hitting on something but drove it at least a hundred miles or so with it before I reinstalled the motor so it is nothing to be alarmed about it is just annoying, I was hoping the new install and motor bracket would fix that but it did not. I am going to see if I can mount the camera somewhere on the lower frame to see exactly where it is hitting. It is my next video but right now I need to charge those SLAs.

As for the 1,500 watt rear hub motor it will need to wait. brakes, Derailleurs and waterproofing the bikes I am riding now are more important. Also I need another variable controller for the 24" bike for my 16.0 - 22V pack. It seems to run very good with that set up. The pedal chain I installed on the Currie last week popped off so I need it put back on. It has been most difficult to find anyone to work on bikes. My friend Doug is so busy with all his girlfriends over there it is like pulling teeth to get him to do anything. I may have to uninstall the motor and take it to a bike shop as they refuse to touch any bike with a motor around here. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

As The Hub Motor turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Clackadlyclackadclackacdcly. WHY ?????

What is the Major Malfunction of this e bike ? Why is it so noisy ? I need a beer and my leg hurts so I am getting a beer and something to munch down on and hoping my Cannon camera can solve this mystery. The motor was remounted and the racket is worse .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpB5zyhjQPs&feature=youtu.be

I skipped the beer and got a sausage , egg and cheese with mayo and a small OJ.

Yea. I figured that. The wheel is bent and it makes the chain hit against the frame during rotation. It seems like I must not of had a straight wheel with all the bike parts I own. It cost me over $100 to get a straight wheel to make the Currie run perfect but should only rum about $30 for a 20" rim if I don't have one straight enough. I guess it is my current project then. The green thing in the cassette was a small bungee cord stuck between the axle and the cassette I had to dig out and the pedal chain jumped to a gear which made the wheel almost impossible to turn when I got it home so it is upside down now with no pedal chain. So now it has a bent rim , no brakes and no pedal. Can anyone stop over today and help me out ?

LC out.

 

[Sunder]

You can get a very basic wheel truing stand for about $40, and a spoke wrench for $5-10. Such a basic stand may take you an hour or more to get a wheel perfect, but seeing the quality of your roads over there and knowing your weight, it will save you money in the long run.

 

[latecurtis]

You can get a very basic wheel truing stand for about $40, and a spoke wrench for $5-10. Such a basic stand may take you an hour or more to get a wheel perfect, but seeing the quality of your roads over there and knowing your weight, it will save you money in the long run.

Yes It would. If you have a link please post it.

I also think that the spoke sprocket kit has something to do with it also as if I remember correct that 20" rim was straight when I put the 60 tooth sprocket on it. It definitely is not helping so my question is will that $5 to $10 tool and a truing stand be able to compensate for that.

I guess even if it helps it will be worth it and since I have five bike frames hanging on the wall I know I can use it for building bikes in the future even if they are not electric and just to sell to make a few bucks. Whatever it takes to save up for a 1,500 watt rear 26" hub motor for the Haro. Thanks for posting.

LC out.