new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

View attachment 12

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. - 45 mph 50 mph ???

I actually own three of these Huffy dual suspension frames. The third is at the end of my back porch where the top pic was taken above. Doug's landlord is removing his back porch due to the bad foundation. He has three small children and three adults in a three bedroom so has no room so he gave me a lot of bike parts so I have a ton of frames but not a lot of good wheels. I will need a truing stand. I have 7 frames total and and two 26" pedal bikes and five working electric bicycles. :lol: :lol:


Yes. I will have my work cut out for me on this one. The one wheel needs all new bearings plus both freewheels need to be removed for the freewheel clutches I will need to bolt the 54 tooth 8mm sprockets to. I will need BMX style handle bars to mount a front chain drive motor and I already failed to remove the pedal sprocket. I will also have to figure out how to install pegs for my feet where the pedal sprocket is now.

All that work will need to be done before I order the motors. The 20" cargo bike with the dual motors will be a simple motor swap. A 24V 2,500 rpm 500 watt motor on the front exactly like the one on the back. I will have to replace the wheel though with a rear freewheel and 80T #25 sprocket which will bolt to the freewheel.

I could just order a 36V 800 watt motor for the rear of the 20: cargo bike for 40 mph but I would rather be doing 40 mph sitting on a heavy duty steel 26" dual suspension frame than a regular 20" bike frame. The 20" cargo bike will go 30 mph at 36V which is fast enough.

I am not sure how I will fit a brake to a 26" bike with 20" wheels but sure I will rig something up. :lol:

Another thing I was thinking which would cost more but get me around 45 mph and may save me some weight would be to use two different motors for the new build and just leave the 20" cargo bike the way it it. If it is not broken why fix it.

Two 900 watt 24V motors with about 32 volts going to them would = 1200 watts. 900 / 24 = 37.5. 37.5 * 32 = 1,200. 1,200 * 2 = 2,400 watts.

Also I can use 24" wheels instead of 20" wheels as 3,466 rpm at 32 volts gears the bike for 46 mph which is only over-geared by 3 mph as 2,400 watts will do 43 mph.

The big issue I got there is building a 32V - 20AH pack out of 18650 cells and charging and balancing them. The 36V packs DA posted fully charged are 42 volts and would most definitely burn up the 24 volt motors. 32 volts fully charged is maximum and I would need a way to charge them. Since I wont be riding the bike all the time maybe I could bulk charge the 18650 cells in parallel and test the voltage on each one before hooking the pack up. Basically I will be rebuilding the pack every time before I run them and dismantling it each time i need to charge it however with that build your own pack kit I found and posted a few pages back it don't look like it will take a lot of time to do.

3.7 * 8 = 29.6V. I really do not know what a 3.7V 18650 cell is fully charged but do know the charger for the 36V lion pack DA posted was a 42V charger so I assume 3.7V cells fully charged are approx. 4.2 volts. so 4.2 * 8 = 33.6 volts.
Yes the google search confirmed it could be slightly higher than 4.2V fully charged. therefore I will change the name of this post to 45 mph.

The cells are rated at 3.7V and 5,000 mah s so that is 5.0 AH capacity. 8 in series = 5 AH @ approx. 33V fully charged so 32 total or four rows of eight in series then wired in parallel should = a 33.6 volt fully charged 20 AH pack. DA could you please let me know if I figured that right. You are the expert on building packs such as these so would appreciate your input. Thanks.




LC out.

I just added the second to last picture on the bottom. It shows the monster scooter 1,000 watt 36 volt electric motor which could be geared for 40 mph at 36V with two motors. The gearing would be perfect for the 54 tooth 8 mm sprockets simply by switching the 11 tooth motor sprockets with 10 tooth motor sprockets. Also increasing voltage to 48V fully charged 12S LiPo would gear it for 50+ mph and wattage would be close to 2,700

I just added another idea which could make the bike safer. Instead of running the front motor I could run both motors on the back but it would require a 100 amp 48 volt controller which it seems nobody knows of such a thing. I was also thinking about a 20" FAT wheel on the back and 24" wheel on the front like the 24" cargo bike.

 

[latecurtis]

Since most LiPo fires occur awhile charging I bought a 12 foot home extension cord. I will be cutting the plugs off the ends and making a charging cable which I can bulk charge the defective pack downstairs on the porch which is concrete and steel where I am charging and away from anything flammable. Also it is out in the open air so there is no chance of anyone breathing in the smoke. The smoke is what I am worried about charging a defective pack indoors.

My question which is a very simple one is can I run the balancer at the same time as I would like to keep the bad cell from causing a fire. I was thinking about 2 amps charge and hooking the balancer on balance mode. I could even go as low as 1 amp if it will keep the balancer from being damaged.

I am getting frustrated with this forum as it seems that no one seems to know the answer to simple questions. For example a motor sprocket for the Imperial electric motor. yes I do want to build an electric bike which will go like a bat out of Hell.

However it does NOT have to have a motor on the front or two motors on the back. It could simply run a single rear motor but am NOT wasting money on a motor if there is no sprocket which will fit.

Please let me know about the balancer at least as I do not want to burn it up and cannot run a balance cable 12 foot and I would like to get some use out of the packs.

I would consider sending the packs including the puffed up one in the dryer all to DA and have all three converted to 5S LiPo with 5S balance plugs put on them as that is beyond my capabilities but do not think the US postal service would appreciate me sending 3 fire hazards in a box.

Therefore I am either out of $$$ or I can try and get some use out of them. These 8.0 - 6S packs do not appear to be puffed up like the one in the dryer so I am trying to use them. I ran them about 2 miles maybe a little more and the picture on the bottom shows the voltage.

Please let me know if I can balance and charge at the same time with the external balancer and if so at what charging amps should I set the charge at. I know that balancers discharge at a low rate but the charger can also be set at 0.5 amp and even lower. Also should I hook the balancer up first before the charger to avoid sparks.

The third pic. down shows my soldering station and the other show my charging station and bottom pic. shows the LiPo pack in the LiPo pouch which is inside the metal cash box so it is a asfe operation as it will contain a LiPo fire.

Please let me know about running the balancer while charging. Thanks and please post when you can.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

Sorry LC, I sure can't help with the sprocket question, Also sure most others don't have the answer either.
I know you want to go fast, but I sure wish you would try what DA has recommended time and time again. Find the big hill load all the batteries and motor with no chain and see what 30++ is like with no brakes. I sure hope you don't try it as I was joking about no brakes. Brakes are more important than you think.

As for the Bull Shit 18650 5000mah cells. They are just junk, not 5000mah! if I remember they tested at less than 2000mah at less than a 2 amp load. I did buy them a couple years ago as I questioned the BS rating. I got half my money back, they are less than what you would find in a laptop pack. Don't waste your money trying to build it yourself unless you buy top grade cells and a spot welder. Or the solderless kits you are looking at and than it will cost as much as buying a built one.

Have you ever looked up the state law on ebikes in NY? Youtube has a good one on it. It has to be pedlec to be legal.

I sure wish you could come here and try my bikes. You sure wouldn't be doing all this motors and the chain you are. I think NY to Chicago is closer than NY to Tampa.
So If you think of trying it, don't wait too long. House goes on the market next week.

I wish batteries didn't cost so much to ship, I could send you some more LiPo 4s packs I'm never gonna use.

As for the balancer, yes you can but it won't keep up with the charger. Once in a while I need to put them on my bike while bulk charging. Mostly after I charge them or before if the cells are too far off. My Multistars have been pretty stable over the last 200 cycles.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

I wish batteries didn't cost so much to ship, I could send you some more LiPo 4s packs I'm never gonna use.

If you let me know how much shipping is and it is less than 1/2 the price of new packs then I can send you a Wall-Mart money order.

The 24" cargo bike and the Currie both have the variable controller and have been running them with 6S LiPo. Two 4S packs in series would be 8S Lipo and run either bike very well. A little extra power and 20 mph instead of 15 mph or less. Also a litter better up the hills.

I guess building chain drives is challenging. I do have brakes on my bikes and if I were to build a 40+ mph bike I would also get brakes hooked up. Also in case of an emergency stopping a bicycle on the flat would be much easier than going down a big hill.

I really don't get how costing down a large hill could compare with doing 40 or 50 mph on flat pavement. The physics are totally different as gravity is pulling on the person and bike where under motor power the bike is being pushed forwards. Also if you had good front brakes going down a hill at 40+ mph the chances are you would go flying over the handlebars and do several flips in the air before crashing to the ground or a telephone pole.

On flat ground once no power is going to the motor the bike will slow down a little even before brakes are applied and stopping at 40 mph on flat would be easier and faster than downhill as even with no motor power you are still dealing with the force of gravity and the bike is at an angle leaning forwards which is much more dangerous. I rest my case.

thanks though for the info on the charger. I will hook it up when the pack is about half way charged and set the charger for 1 amp and see how it goes.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

You really should learn to do searches, on ES, about your questions.
Save a whole lot of runaway excitement >> disappointment ... about common fictions and misconceptions etc.

 

[DrkAngel]

EG 3.7V rated voltage on Lipo is based on the average discharge voltage during recommended use.
With your propensity towards small packs, your "use" might dip this rating closer to 3.5V.



1C - 1 hour run time = 3.75V effective
3C - 20 minute run time = 3.7V effective
6C - 10 minute run time = 3.5V effective
10C - 6 minute run time = 3.3V effective

 

[DrkAngel]

No pedal chains! ... ?
I am curious ...
Seems like you cut off the pedal chains on most every bike, then struggle to ever get one put back on.
You do know that you don't have to cut the chain to remove the rear wheel ... don't you?

 

[latecurtis]

Seems like you cut off the pedal chains on most every bike, then struggle to ever get one put back on.
You do know that you don't have to cut the chain to remove the rear wheel ... don't you?

No. I did not know that.

The Currie I built with the 750 watt gear reduction motor had a pedal chain on it but it fell off. The problem I have been having is running it as a single speed with no derailleur. The chain fell off awhile doing pedal assist. It is most difficult for me to get the chain tight enough without the motor chain coming loose or being too tight. A chain tensioner could solve the problem or I could get Doug to install the derailleur and gears. :lol: :lol: :lol:

Doug lives with three women and already has kids with two of them and is working on a third. He has been compared to the Manson family. :lol: Though not evil he seems to control all three and they wait on him like he is a king or something.
I have managed to get brakes done there but always takes several hours plus I have to travel almost two miles to get there then back home. Now his landlord is taking down his back porch so he will have to work on bikes outside in the back yard as with three kids and four adults + at least one or two friends he always has around I doubt much work will get done there.

I wish DA lived close as he could show me how to take these LiPo packs apart and I would gladly give him $20 an hour to hook up my chain and gears as I know DA could have 18 gears and brakes working perfect in less than an hour. No bike shops around here will work on any bicycle with a motor on it. It seems that the LiPo pack I was charging is extremely unstable. I also noticed awhile bulk charging the pack at 2 amps about two hours that the cells were all closer to 4.0V before I hooked up the balancer and attempted to balance awhile charging at 1 amp to get them closer to 4.2 volts. Around 4.0 volts they were about 0.5 to 0.8V off but attempting to charge to 4.2 they become VERY unstable and after balancing for several hours they go back to around 4.0 volts except for the bad cell.

The picture with the 4.2V cell is the pack I ran and charged last night. The other pack I have NOT ran since I separated the two packs and I have some hope for that. It could be that that pack is ok but just looked bad as it was hooked up in parallel with the bad cell. The other picture shows my ridiculous 12 foot charging cable. I can just put the pack in the cash box with the holes facing out the window and LiLo balance charge. I thought the balancer was burnt out as the screen was almost totally black. I was ready to throw it out like I did one about a year ago but to my surprise the balancer worked later on when it cooled off and the screen was no longer black.

This will save me some time and since I have two LiPo chargers I should set the charger I am using to balance unstable packs to LiLo charge or 4.1 V as the LiPo charge seems to cause the packs to become dangerously unstable the closer the pack approaches 4.2V. Thanks for posting. It is good to hear from you DA.

LC out.

 

[DAND214]

OK, I don't get it. You can put a chain on a motor but not on the pedals. You have time to learn, don't you? When Doug helps you do you watch or play with his women It's easy if you pay attention how it comes apart and how it goes back together. Doug being 2 miles away is too far. I take 15 to 20 miles rides to the local lakes. Even Lake Michigan is about 10 miles. I know I can get 2 miles per AH and can do better when I try. You should be getting better milage with 12s over 12s, the higher the more miles.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

OK, I don't get it. You can put a chain on a motor but not on the pedals. You have time to learn, don't you? When Doug helps you do you watch or play with his women It's easy if you pay attention how it comes apart and how it goes back together. Doug being 2 miles away is too far. I take 15 to 20 miles rides to the local lakes. Even Lake Michigan is about 10 miles. I know I can get 2 miles per AH and can do better when I try. You should be getting better milage with 12s over 12s, the higher the more miles.

Yes it is too far with no brakes at all. I do not mind riding on the flat but even the small hills are an issue as they wear out the bottoms of my sneakers and I am not trying to be Fred Flintstone. :lol: Going to Dougs however requires going down a much bigger hill either way I go and I don't like going thru downtown past the police station with no pedal chain either. My 10.0 - 6S pack can go to doug's and back with a few miles left. At 4.17V average the trip to Dougs house the pack is above 3.8V a cell on average when I return.



Doug don't know how to hook up a electric motor to a wheel sprocket. Doug don't know how to install an electric motor. he knows how to work on non electric bikes. I installed the chain but could not get the pedal chain and motor chain BOTH tight so the pedal chain came off. It is one or the other so I chose a tight motor chain and not so tight pedal chain. With a chain tensioner I could probably make it work. I will need to order a couple.

After about an hour and a half I managed to find the LiLo function on the Skycharger. The pack with the bad cell is in the window. It was 4.20 before. Now on the charger set to LILO and balance charge and 1 amp this is the readings I am getting. It really don't make a lot of sense to me. How can it go from 4.2V to 2.83V in a few minutes on the charger ?

Unless you know something I don't if the cell reads that low or even under 4 volts tomorrow I will be having my first LiPo shoot tomorrow as soon as it starts getting a little dark. Tomorrow night at dusk. As of now I will be running the other 8.0 pack to the laundry mat. I plan on running it down to 3.6V per cell then LiLo balance charging at 2 amps to see if I get a better result than this pack.



Well maybe I wont have to shoot it YET. :lol: The one cell is high but the pack could still be used however if charged to 4.2V the bad cell has gone well over 4.3 volts so it is possible the LiLo function could give me a few more miles with it before I have to pull out my CO2 pellet pistol. I will give it one more run and see what it does. Now I have been running around with the other pack to the laundry mat and store several trips so I am going to stick a balancer on that now to see if it is ready to charge.

Ok good. (second down from top pic below.) That put a smile on my face as it looks like the pack could be healthy. However it tells half the story as I still have to recharge it. Then I will know if the cell remains stable but it certainly passed the discharge test so far. The laundromat is only three blocks away so it should not be much difference when I return. I may have to make two trips but that is good as I am looking for under 3.7V if possible before I charge it. I know one thing I have learned a lot about LiPo however I am still not ready to pull the pack apart that has the puffed up cell out in the dryer.

Another thing is I miss the Schwinn. I need to fix that front tire and get the old LiPo packs going I got from Dan awhile back that are in the big cash box . it has been at least two months since I ran those.



Made it in one trip. I love my cargo bike. I heard rain is on the way from hurricane Harvey. My e bikes are ready. That is an old air mattress. It works good and has not blown away yet. The pack is charging as the picture shows and the one with the bad cell is in a cashbox. I will post tomorrow to let you all know if the pack charging now is good. I left it on LiLo charge for now. I think I finally figured out how to switch from LiLo to LiPo. I know I did it before awhile back but forgot how I did it. Hopefully I will remember now. Thanks.

LC out

yep. The pack is good. It is close to 4V per cell and all cells are looking about the same. It makes sense as I remember when I first got them I ran one below 3V by accident and everyone said to get LiPo alarms. Because it was new and I hooked them in parallel the bad cell lasted for awhile but eventually got worse and is now unstable. I have not repeated that mistake though as I keep very close attention to distance traveled and use google maps religiously to make sure I do not run any of my packs low. When in question I will bring an extra pack and switch for the return trip home.

 

[DrkAngel]

We have very ... contrary ... views.
I, personally, view an electric motor as a way to enhance a bicycles usability-capability.

You, LC, by, typically, removing brakes and pedal chain ... seem to degrade capability, safety! ... usability!

Speed, your apparent priority, is 1 thing, 1 factor in "performance" ... all your other actions degrade "performance" to the point of actual danger!

 

[DAND214]

We have very ... contrary ... views.
I, personally, view an electric motor as a way to enhance a bicycles usability-capability.

You, LC, by, typically, removing brakes and pedal chain ... seem to degrade capability, safety! ... usability!

Speed, your apparent priority, is 1 thing, 1 factor in "performance" ... all your other actions degrade "performance" to the point of actual danger!

Sorry LC, I have to go with DA.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

My front brakes are working fine.

However the Currie front brake works better than the 24" cargo bike but I only take the 24" cargo bike down really small hills and use it for short Wall-Mart or grocery store in Hannaford Plaza.

Yesterday I took the Currie downtown twice and went down a rather long hill with absolutely no problem stopping the bike. I still would like a rear brake but do not see a way as the motor is in the way but 70% stopping power is in the front brake anyway so I was told here on ES.

As for the pedal chains on those bikes i really want that but like I said I need a chain tensioner for single speed freewheel chain which is fine for the 24" cargo bike but I would like the gearing on the Currie to be restored to factory specs. however we all know I lack the mechanical skills to accomplish that myself.

DA. I sent you a PM. regarding a box of brand new LIFEPO4 cells. It seemed like a really good deal. Is there a way I could build that pack myself and how would I hook up a BMS ?? Please let me know.

LC out.

 

[DrkAngel]

DA. I sent you a PM. regarding a box of brand new LIFEPO4 cells. It seemed like a really good deal. Is there a way I could build that pack myself and how would I hook up a BMS ?? Please let me know.

LC out.

For instructions on building your own battery ...
See my thread on Homemade Battery Packs

 

[DAND214]

LC, you know it will take more cells with LiFePo than LiPo. They are 3.3v nominal where LiPo is 3.6/3,7v per cell. Also most LiFePo are lower mah per cell. they are safer but a lot less power or C rating in most cases.

Dan

 

[Sunder]

I'd love to see these LiFePo4 cells. I'm after cheap statationary storage cells.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Box-of-60-Fullriver-LiFePO4-32700-3-2V-5400mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-32650-/351913374341?hash=item51efabf285:g:zOgAAOSwOyJX880r

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Box-of-80-Fullriver-LiFePO4-26650-3-2V-3300mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/191987482937?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dfd586aa9f14843ec8a031855c0fb5521%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1

just found this. cheaper and 20 extra cells.

I like it but want to be able to use my 6S charger. It has a LIFEPO4 function I think. I would like to build two packs which I can charge with either of my 6S chargers. Please let me know.
I am looking for a solder-less kit like the one I posted with the 18650 cells.

It would be cool to NOT run a BMS and parallel charge and rebuild the pack each time. Only a solder-less kit I think could do that and a good parallel charger.

Perhaps instead of building another bike I should Hook up pedal chains and build a couple of battery packs I can run in series for 48V LIFEPO4 or what ever voltage my 6S chargers will do.

I have choices. A 1,500 watt hub motor, a 1,000 36V Unite motor, A Imperial electric motor. or batteries for electric bikes I own like the Schwinn. I got five e bikes and a bunch of old and used batteries. They will not last long pushing a bike I build to go like a bat out of hell. :lol: Thanks.

LC out.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea it sure looks like a lot of work for a couple of low AH packs.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-6s-20000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html

This is the alternative I guess.

About half price for same AH I think if I get the 80 cell box so only way a better deal is if a solder-less kit is available with good instructions and video for about $20 or $30 more.

 

[Sunder]

These are on special from the Hong Kong warehouse. Not worth it for one, but starts getting cost effective fast, the more you buy:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-6s-12000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html

Thinking of getting a few for a 2nd hand inverter I just got.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnigy-MultiStar-6S-12000mAh-10C-LIPO-Battery-Pack-w-XT90-for-eBike-MultiRotor-/322700645673?hash=item4b22751529:g:ufMAAOSwU4JZkVqE

Good luck. I hope It works out for you.

It looks like ca little much 4 me.

Those Multistars look more up my ally.

 

[DrkAngel]

NEW Box of 60 Fullriver LiFePO4 32700 3.2V 5400mAh Rechargeable Batteries 32650
$115 - 1036Wh = $111/kWh

Looks reasonable for:
12s5p = 38.4V 27Ah (36V) - eBike
Balance charger capable as 2 - 6s5p
4s15p = 12V 81Ah (12.8V) - powerwall

NEW Box of 80 Fullriver LiFePO4 26650 3.2V 3300mAh Rechargeable Batteries
$100 - 844Wh = $118.48/kWh
Reasonable for:
8s10p = 25.6V 33Ah (24V)
Balance charge as 2 - 4s10p or 8s10p w/iMax B8 or similar
4s20p = 12V 66Ah (12.8V) - powerwall

Bulk charging LiFePO4 is somewhat ... tricky. Similar to SLA, it requires a higher "saturation" charge with a "charge termination" function.

Remember ... Lithium-iron is twice the size of Lithium-ion for the same capacity.
.

 

[DrkAngel]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turnigy-MultiStar-6S-12000mAh-10C-LIPO-Battery-Pack-w-XT90-for-eBike-MultiRotor-/322700645673?hash=item4b22751529:g:ufMAAOSwU4JZkVqE

Good luck. I hope It works out for you.

It looks like ca little much 4 me.

Those Multistars look more up my ally.

Turnigy MultiStar 6S 12000mAh 10C LIPO Battery Pack w/XT90 for eBike MultiRotor
$120 - 266.4Wh = $450/kWh

Reasonable for:
6s1p = 22.2V 12Ah (Wimpified 24V eBike)

I have tried 22.2V multiple times but found the performance to be pitifully ... lackluster.
By comparison, I build:
7s12p LiPo = 25.9V 25.92Ah (675wh) 40miles@15mph or 25miles@20mph (Pumped up 24V eBike)
7s12p Li-ion 18650's = 25.9V 31.2Ah (808wh) 50miles@15mph or 32miles@20mph

I can cruise the trails for hours ... to relax
or pedal assist @ 25mph ... for exercise
and ... Geared one of my comfort cruisers lower (15mph@25.9V, 20mph@37V ), for torque-hauling ... and bungee a 2 wheel dolly or my 2'x4' wagon to the rack for cargo

also built into eZip battery case ...
9s12p Li-ion 18650's = 33.3V 31.2Ah (1038.96wh) 65miles@15mph or 40miles@20mph 25+miles@25mph

DrkAngel Battery Build Round-up more ... 25.9V RC LiPo, 25.9V high output 18650 and 37V high output 18650 builds ... posted soon.

 

[latecurtis]

Well now it is getting to the point that this is a challenge.

I see DAs famous builds but am not able to comprehend them. I am as a simple child with limited knowledge of our solar system gazing at the Milky Way for the first time. DAs builds are just too much for me to grasp.

However I do know the positive side from negative if it is marked and if not I know how to use a multi meter now.

The picture above is my search and am not finding many kits which snap together for the LIFEPO4 cells but a lot on the 18650 cells. I wonder what size wood drill bit would drill a perfect round hole for those LIFEPO4 cells.

I bet that a box to hold those cells could be constructed out of wood. I even think I could come up with a way to connect them without solder too after watching the video on the solderless kits for the 18650 cells.
Two center pieces would probably be needed to keep the cells straight up and down.

My biggest question is how many cells in series for 6S charging options with my charger. My variable controllers will do 12S LiPo so I can build two packs I can charge with either of my 6S chargers. Hooking up a BMS to all of that though would be a huge challenge for me but do not see why it could not be done. Is the wiring in my blueprints correct.

I am terrible at following directions but if I design anything I can change it if it is wrong and then will comprehend the correction before I build it. However I have trouble following any blueprint I DID NOT make myself.

Also my method would require four long bolts or threaded rod to be used one in each corner not shown in the bottom blueprint but it would take less than five minutes to remove top and bottom with wing nuts by hand and replace with a different top and bottom for parallel bulk charging for custom voltage packs which cannot be charged with conventional chargers. wiring would be simple just by turning every other cell upside down so all positive face up and negative face down.

Please let me know and thanks for all the feedback on all of this. It has sparked my interest.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Turnigy MultiStar 6S 12000mAh 10C LIPO Battery Pack w/XT90 for eBike MultiRotor
$120 - 266.4Wh = $450/kWh

As I mentioned, those exact models are on special for $60 from Hobbyking at the moment, + ~$30 delivery for the first one, and $20 delivery for every battery after the first. (Rough USD conversion).

Doesn't bring it down to the LiFePo4 cell price, but those will involve a lot of assembly, and only ships to US - both good for LC, but unfortunately not good for me

HK cells are just easier for the novice. Both require some degree of skill, but pre-assembled 12Ah pouch cells should be a lot easier than unassembled smaller cylindrical cells. Even modifying 6S into 7S/8S should be a lot easier.

Common capacitors voltage limits are 25 -> 35 -> 50, so if it's designed for 24v SLA, they can't have 25v caps. Cheap would be 35v, quality would be 50v. Either way, you could make 8S cells (33.6v) relatively safely using 4 x 6s = 32 total cells, break one up to 3 x 8S. I would then set the charger to charger to 4.0v per cell, lose about 15% of capacity, but quadruple life span.

But that's just me. Probably beyond LC's comfort zone.

 

[latecurtis]

I will have to look into the Hobby King deal.

However even if I do order the LiPos I will still be building a large LIFEPO4 pack also as I KNOW I have the woodworking skills needed to accomplish it. I just need a drill bit which can drill a hole that will fit the cells snugly but not too tight so I can switch them around for bulk charging.

Also my question for who posts next is ; Is my blueprints wrong for 6S charging. I was going by minimal voltage of 3.2V. My charger is 6S or 6 cell with a LiPo , Lion and LIFEPO4 function so I would need rows of 6 instead of 7 to use my 6S chargers right ????. Please let me know.

With the exact drill bit for a perfect hole I would measure and screw two boards together and drill all the holes in about an hour. 50 minutes would be the measuring to get everything evenly spaced and the 10 minutes would be actual drilling. Two center pieces will be needed.


The top and bottom for the nuts and bolts can be drilled also both boards screwed together. I will need to know what type of metal for the nuts and bolts is the best conductor and the bolts which touch the battery terminal will be flush with the nut for larger area of contact. The other side will be longer as to screw the nuts down over the wires. A washer , the terminal and a nut to tighten it down.


The top pic. shows what I will use. They will be crimped and soldered. I will use 10 gauge wire. This looks like it will be fun. I am looking forwards to it.


thanks for that info on Hobby King. I will need to look at that now.

LC out.

omg That 8S pack on the bottom pic. lower right is one hell of a deal. Now for THAT price it would be worth getting a new LiPo charger for 8S LiPo. I wonder when they will be back in stock ??? I need to call them and ask. If the price will be the same it is a no brainer there. I did not see the deal you saw Sunder but those 4S packs in series for 8S would run my Currie and 24" cargo bikes with the variable controller very well. Also would work for the 36 volt 3.6 horsepower 2,700 watt Imperial electric motor on the rear rack of the HaroV3 for 45 mph

However for the Schwinn or the Diamondback would be too low voltage I think as 32 volts could trigger a low LVC cuttoff. DAMM. Too many choices. What do I do. Which way did he go. :lol: :lol: or do I go.

The 1,500 watt 48V Hub kit ?

The Imperial electric motor.

the box of 60 LIFEPO4 cells

Or a Hobby King order.

I will only have the $$$ to choose one of those options this month and that will be a most difficult choice. One thing I do know though. I need to call Hobby King about those $49.99 8S packs. For that price four would be good. 16S LiPo would also hot rod any of my 48 volt motors.