new eZip motor

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unfortunatlly they did not have a switch

I had to get a double plug so i can use my power strip as the outlet is where it is inconvenient to plug in

I was thinking about using a 12V SLA to test it with oone single bulb but do not know if it would work but 12V is better than 110 for testing.

I turned out the light and nothing. I am going to test each hole the bulbs screw in to. The battery is new and I tested it.
 

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You don't need a battery, use the ohm seting on the DVM. You might have a buzzer or horn for a continuity check. Put the two probes together and see what the meter says. then put on end on the plg and test the wires in the lamp. If no horn the meter should read 000 if shorted.

Dan
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1WvoAhZ1po&feature=youtu.be

I have no clue how anything can be done without a battery. You lost me on that one however I think it is all good.

Yea. It looks all good. Basically if I plug it into a power strip and there is a short it will trip the safety button on the strip before it trips the fuse box I guess. I will post a picture if it works.

Basically when I went to college it was for electrical technology so this is the stuff I should have been doing 20 years ago. Thanks.

LC out.

Ok now I need to start charging those LiPo packs so I can get that Schwinn going tomorrow.
 

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Torque arms.

Yes as usual I am ready to go for a ride but lack parts. The old packs are charged and ready and I got the tube to change the flat but I was running it with a part of a torque arm on one side and a wrench on the other going around the bolt with a clamp around the open end.

I also see a lot of rust on the threaded axle. I put some 3 in 1 oil on it but wonder if I should use something else ?

I am not feeling like waiting any length of time to ride this as already been waiting about a year I think so if anyone knows where I can get torque arms with overnight shipping or two day I will order them otherwise will use wrenches. :D Thanks.

LC out.
 

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DAND214 said:
You don't need a battery, use the ohm seting on the DVM. You might have a buzzer or horn for a continuity check. Put the two probes together and see what the meter says. then put on end on the plg and test the wires in the lamp. If no horn the meter should read 000 if shorted.

Dan
Continuity function
 
View attachment 62.JPG3.JPG4.JPG5.JPG

Ok top picture shows part of a torque arm. The arrow showing where I need to drill a small hole for a second bolt to prevent it from pivoting.

The second down shows the space between the nut holding the hub motor together. It was hitting against the fork.

The third picture down shows the washer I used to fix that problem.

The forth picture down shows the wrench I will be using for a torque arm to save the $20 ordering one. The arrows are for two small clamps to hold it in place I will need to pick up tomorrow at advanced auto. I know this is not recommended but is why an ultra light touch on the throttle is needed or a good pedal start before engaging the thumb throttle.

The last picture on the bottom shows the derailleur. It is the only e bike I got that has one. I want Doug to set it up for all the gears for pedal assist up hills. i also want to do the same with the Currie.

Thanks.

LC out.

Nope. Was going to drill the hole now but no room. It looks like two more clamps for a wrench on that side also. :lol: :lol:

I will need a new rear tire as it is about shot and the one on the front has a lot of tread left. With the derailleur I will need Doug's help. That plus a gear shiftier will be an all day thing so may as well buy a 24 cut pizza for the house. :lol:
 

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For the umpteenth time!

A box end wrench is absolutely no help!!!

Open end wrench can be makeshift substitute for a proper torque arm.
"Drop forged", not (cheap) cast.
.
 
DA, you forgot to tell him the wrench must fit the axle. Box wrench might hold the axle from dropping out of the fork but does nothing for the spin of the axle. I believe it's a 10mm.
As for the rear, that is easier than the frt. Loosen the axle nuts pull the derailleur rearward and take the wheel out. reverse that to put it back.

I just don't get it LC. As smart as you are you are not? This stuff is so easy, if you apply yourself. Lots of videos and Sheldon Brown has all that stuff for you to learn, JUST DO IT. http://www.sheldonbrown.com/

Dan
 
there is no spin of axle. The axle is squared off to prevent that and is a snug fit in the dropouts. I am going to Advanced auto to get the clamps now so I can ride the bike. I do not have money for expensive torque arms that will offer no better protection then the wrenches.

A good pedal start and or an easy touch with the throttle is still the key to safety here. I rode the bike for miles without expensive torque arms and nothing bad has happened. Thanks for your concern.


LC out.

Well I guess you guys win this one. It is Sunday and all the advanced auto stores are closed. I just got off the phone with Wall-Mart and b i t c h e d out the guy on the phone for NOT having any either. I said "why do you bother having an automotive department if you do not carry one of the most common things anyone with a car would need. A radiator hose clamp. I called him an a _ _ hole. :lol:

It never ceases to amaze my the stupidity of people. Whoever runs Wall-Mart needs to be slapped repeatedly.

I dont have $$$ for PROPER torque arms. I got a $300 utility bill due. I guess the Schwinn can sit for another year or two then. I will just ride my Currie and call it a day. Now those LiPo packs are charged for nothing. :( :(

Only the dual motor bike is set up for those packs as the Currie and 20" Diamond Back have no room for that big cash box. The 24" cargo bike does but the chain rubs on the tire. No problem with 24 volts but 48 volts is pushing my luck there.

I wanted to put a speedo. on the Schwinn also and that did not get done either.
 

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Torque.jpg

Geared Hub Demo

 
Yes that does make sense.

I like the geared hub motor illustration also. If I were to get one for my chain drives would it give me lower gears for steep hills. Currie has the special wheel I paid $120 for and is already geared for 13.5 mph at 500 watts and 320 rpm@24V.

The 24" cargo bike is geared for 16.5 mph at 500 watts 1,500 rpm@24V.

Basically I don't have any use for a geared hub at this time but maybe if I go with a chain drive for the HaroV3 I will be looking for 40+ mph gearing so the top gear in a geared hub will be for 40 to 43 mph and 2,000 to 2,500 watts so if the geared hub can downshift to say 32 mph and 22 mph for the steep and steeper hills with the 2,000 to 2,500 watts then it would be worth having a geared hub with a shifter.

Please let me know. It would need to be a rear drive only not a dual motor so I would need the 2,700 watt Imperial electric motor and a 100 amp 48 volt brush controller and that could be a problem unless I get one with the pot. I really wanted a thumb throttle for that kind of power though. Anything OVER 36 volts and 750 watts I prefer a thumb throttle over a pot.

The pot. is great for pedal assist as you can set it for 10 to 15 mph and pedal if you have a pedal chain that is. :oops: I am looking for pedal gears and derailleurs for all my e bikes except the dual motor bike. It is impossible for pedal with that set up.

I would need to remove the 80 tooth from the freewheel replace the 24 volt 500 watt motor with a 36V 800 watt motor like is on the front and 56 tooth spoke sprocket. The reason is the 24V motor on there now is 2,500 rpm @ 24 volts and the 36V motor is 1,834 rpm @ 24 volts and geared for about 20 mph at 500 watts with the 56 tooth.

It is why I am leaving the dual motor set up as is because it works and is great up hills at 24 volts. I do not need to run it at 36 volts as the Currie will do 28 mph with 48 volts or 6S LiPo. This is why I have come to a standstill concerning a new build. That and lack of $$$$$. Also lack of a brush controller good for 3 kilowatts and 100 amps.

The only build I can do for 40 mph and a thumb throttle is a dual motor set up with a 1,000 watt motor front and rear hooked to a single thumb throttle. I have one 48 volt 1,000 watt Chinese controller compatible with a three wire thumb throttle. I will need to order two motors , one controller and two 65 tooth spoke sprockets. That will cost too much $$$$$$$ Thanks.

LC out.

Still looking for a dirt bike frame for the FX project. I was supposed to get welding equipment to try and copy the death bike but that did not happen either. :( Maybe next year.


I could use the grinder on the wrench to reinforce the dropouts but chrome is slippery and not sure it would work but could grind it so it wont slip. I need a complete wrench set both SAE and metric anyway then use the extra ones I got and put one on the outside axle as well with the clamps also so it will be the same as expensive torque arms. What do you think. If it is workable I can probably do it within the next couple of days. Two wrench sets is cheaper than two torque arms and then I got complete sets of wrenches. :D

Please let me know.

I also have thick steel pieces and could make something stronger than standard torque arms with the grinder I think. I will have to see. Thanks.

LC out.
 

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I am dealing with a lawyers lip and rust. I got flat steel bar as you can see in two different sizes. The grinder and a hacksaw. Is it possible to make something as good if not better than torque arms ?

Please let me know because I want to ride the Schwinn. Thanks.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-Torque-Arms-Universal-Front-or-Rear-Electric-Bicycle-E-bike-E-Bike-/222572632764?hash=item33d25cdabc:g:p~8AAOSwbiFZTyeW

That is the best deal I see for then on e bay.
LC out.
 

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Anything made to spec by a highly skilled tradesperson is always going to be better than anything made in bulk to a price.

The question is, do you have the knowledge and the skill to do it?

If I were you, I'd be looking at grades of steel that would be appropriate, or even titanium alloys. I'd be looking to see if cutting it compromises strength, or if it could be cheaply CNCed, and whether that would impact strength. I'd be looking to see if there are any post-forming strenghtening treatments, like shotpeening, or cryogenic treatments (Does harder, but more brittle help or hurt in these circumstances?).

Or realistically, I'd just keep riding gently while I saved up, then buy mass produced torque arms and use them within spec.
 
View attachment 1IMG_2909.JPG

I believe I have torque arms on the 20" Diamond Back with the 20" 800 watt Hub motor on the front. I have not been riding that bike anyway so I can borrow one from there for the other side.

A good metal jigsaw blade will work and the grinder for the dropout area. Also to answer your question Brittle is no good. Steel will give a little before total failure so will become noticeable awhile riding therefore is safer in my book.

Do you think it will work. I may or may not go thru all the trouble though if the torque arms on the Diamondback will work. Thanks.

LC out.
 
latecurtis said:
Also to answer your question Brittle is no good. Steel will give a little before total failure so will become noticeable awhile riding therefore is safer in my book.

That was a rhetorical question. You actually don't know that, and you are more likely than not to be wrong. It may be that the hardness is resistant beyond any deformational energy, where as pliability means that every time you push close to the limit, you damage it a bit more, and one day it just gives way suddenly. That could mean that a stronger, more brittle metal is far superior than a softer, more pliable metal.
 
Ok. I will take your word for it. I have a complete set of torque arms on the Diamondback and would rather they be on a 26" bike then a 20" bike.

That solves that issue however there is one more thing. The 20" hub motor kit on the Diamondback cost about $260 with shipping and I hardly ever use it. Probably less than 50 miles on the motor.

I have been thinking for awhile about removing the hub motor. I know I wont get much help going 40 mph but how about a 20 mph push trailer ? It would be perfect for the Haro V3 or any other mountain bike and a huge LIFEPO4 pack could fit on top inside a luggage pack so it would be low profile. Good for 100 miles round trip at 20 mph. I doubt the police would even know the trailer is pushing the bike if I am pedaling. :D

I do not know exactly how I would do this but I feel it would be be better to have 100 mile range at 20 mph than 3 to 5 mile range at 40 to 50 mph. Also a big pile of $$$ spent compared to a little pile. :) It would also make a nice winter project. I will post pictures of push trailers and see what will work. It has to be on a budget and since I got the wheel, motor , controller and throttle it is just the cost of material to build the trailer and then the FULL RIVER batteries.

I will simply add the pictures to this post and then figure out what I will need to get at the home depot. Thanks.

It looks exactly like my 800 watt hub motor. I google searched this before. I also know how to mount a set of forks to a piece of plywood for the bottom. I may need 24" or 26" forks though. The thing I do not like about the design on the top is the mount to the seat post which is common but going down a steep hill if a bolt came loose it could spell a big jackknife disaster. I would rather have an extra long axle on the rear and connect on both sides with the steel bar I have.

I like the idea as I can pedal normally and use all the gears and with no hub motor or motor period on the bike or motor chain and batteries I can pedal more than otherwise. Please let me know what you all think about it.

LC out.

PS. I just ran into a big problem taking off the torque arm on the Diamond Back to put them on the Schwinn. I lack something I need to accomplish it. It is something I have lacked my entire life. It is called ambition. I might be one of the laziest people on earth. :oops: :oops: :lol: :lol:
 

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http://www.express.co.uk/news/world/583515/Frankenstein-Dr-tycoons-immortal-world-s-first-head-transplant-Sergio-Canavero?_ga=2.28872700.174963099.1505908490-1298422851.1505181837?_ga=2.28872700.174963099.1505908490

http://prntscr.com/gng7zd

NO !!!

NO !!!.

These smart people are so frustrating because they ARE NOT SMART.

how about a second blood supply. No freezing of the brain needed just a way to pump blood thru the brain thru a device which contains an external artificial heart. A heart inside of a machine about the size of a computer tower. the pump would need to be about the size of a 5 to 10 pound cats heart probably as we are not supplying an entire human body just a brain.

hooking up the spinal cord and central nervous system for a successful head or brain transplant could take as much time as a medically induced coma can last. Days or a week or more I would imagine.

If there were some way to have such a blood pumping device in the home could save heart attack and stroke victims as long as there was a way of hooking it up quick and routing it to go directly thru the brain and not thru the human body. Basically rerouting blood-flow thru tubes grafted into the main arteries. Once the tube is plugged in to the machine blood flow to the body stops. The brain then survives with no damage awaiting a new body.

I believe that all scientific research should center on being able to separate brain from body within the next 10 years. Then there will be plenty of time to develop a cyborg body or younger clone of a human or even a human animal hybrid to transfer the brain to. All human death even from natural causes I believe is from a lack of oxygen, blood flow or both. Think about it. All that needs to be done to live forever is a cure to all brain diseases such as Alzheimer's and dementia and keeping oxygen and blood going thru the brain. It cant get much more simple than that.

How do I present my idea to the right life extension scientists. Please let me know. Thanks.

LC out.
 
.
...
Better than immortality!

Just
1. have yourself cloned
2. document every stupid thing, or mistake, that you have ever been involved in
3. explain how stupid each turned out to be and the consequences
4. document all the health detriments, smoking, drinking, pizza and the consequences
5. program a schedule of indoctrination for your future self
6. commit suicide knowing that "you" are destined for a much better life!
 
DrkAngel said:
.
...
Better than immortality!

Just
1. have yourself cloned
2. document every stupid thing, or mistake, that you have ever been involved in
3. explain how stupid each turned out to be and the consequences
4. document all the health detriments, smoking, drinking, pizza and the consequences
5. program a schedule of indoctrination for your future self
6. commit suicide knowing that "you" are destined for a much better life!
Come on DA. You know LC doesn't listed to a Doctor, so why would he listen to you, Now :mrgreen:

Don't do it LC, that's Suicide :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dan
 
http://www.topix.com/forum/tech/nanotech/T5VM78P4NF0QSFTB0/concepts-on-total-body-transplant


1. have yourself cloned

2. At approx. 60 years old and the exact copy will grow a normal body but with no brain.

3. When the cranium is large enough your brain is transplanted inside the clone and you have 60 more years to do it again.

50 years old is better as better chance of living until 50 than 60 but I am already 52 and need to go back to college to make sure it will work. :D

It should first be done with the cow and then with the deer. Growing animals without heads in factories for meat would make animal lovers all over the world happy as no more slaughter houses. Also Veal is animal cruelty at it's worse from what I have heard. If it could be accomplished with solar energy to run the factories it would solve world hunger. :) :mrgreen:

Anyway I did not install the hub motor and torque arms yesterday for one simple reason. rust !!! There is a considerable amount of rust and I need a can of black spray paint from Wall-Mart to cover that rust. I remember a while back like 30 years ago when I had a car and the under-carriage was rusty they sold a rust converter. I will also look to see if that product is still available.

Simple paint will slow it down but can still rust under the paint so a rust converter then several coats of paint will work. If it is too expensive then about three coats of primer and two coats of paint will work. I am excited about riding it but also very excited about the push trailer project. Thanks for posting.

LC out.
 

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Don't worry too much about that rust. Be sure you get the nuts tight and the torque arms secured. That frt fork is what I had first try. didn't tighten the nuts enough and spun the axle, spread the droputs and cut the wires.

I sure don't wanna be around another 60 years!!! It's bad enough right now with the rich getting richer and the rest are getting poorer. Just think, That $300 electric bill will be maybe 10x that or more. Well, I guess YOU can dream.

Dan
 
latecurtis said:
1. have yourself cloned

2. At approx. 60 years old and the exact copy will grow a normal body but with no brain.
Actually feasible ...
Have your head grafted onto another person.
Let his body feed your head.
Remove old head after your head grows in proper.
Sound like science fiction?

It's been done!!!
Thing with 2 heads
 
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