new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Yea.

It would cost a lot of money to buy all those LIFEPO4s

Also I just calculated the weight of a 60V 19 Ah LIFEPO4 pack.

6S - 5P = 30 cells so 18S = 90 cells @ 100 grams per cell

90 * 100G = 9,000G



A 60V LIFEPO4 pack will weigh almost 20 pounds.

A single LISHEN - 18 AH - LTO weighs



View attachment 2

15 * 800G =

View attachment 4


Basically soldering all those 26650 cells for a 60V pack will only save me a little space and 6 pounds. But will cost hundreds of bucks.

Yea. It is a no brainer. However there is one big problem. I need at least 48V to run the 26" dual suspension with the 48V 1,000W hub motor and the 1,800W brushless motor and 60V to build the 3 kilowatt brushless motor.

Obviously I will not want a 15S - 26 pound LTO pack AND the 12S - LIFEPO4 for the front Bafang motor. That would be close to 40 pounds of batteries. SO



It just makes a lot of sense A DC booster will cost a lot less than 90 LIFEPO4 cells. Also I could still patent that and make a fortune. No soldering so the LTOs will not be damaged and if I choose to sell them can include a 48V DC booster as well in case someone has a 48V and a 60V motor.



It is a no brainer. Should be able to sell those like hot cakes. Around 30 pounds with the two DC step up boosters and a BMS. All built in.

I will need a 500W - 15S - LTO charger. 1,000Wwould be even better but 500W will work.

500W / 42V = 11.9 amps. 10 amps is minimum then for a portable LTO charger.

I have 24 - LTOs so will have 9 left over for another project. Five would jump start a big truck right. Maybe order more and start building Jump boxes. I could put a 400W or 1,000W DC to AC converter and sell power packs for camping.

Why not. They sell those cheap garbage JUNK boxes at Wall-Mart with cheap SLA batteries inside them. Why not patent a real Jump box/ power bank with LTOs and make some real $$$$$$$$$$$

Who is in ???????????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Bulky
You could buy some Lifepo4 CALB 100Ah from place DrkAngel linked to but CALB is like the size of a computer atx case if you want 36V but its cheap. Actually they have several sizes from 60Ah-100Ah.

I will post pictures.

Well at least you kept your word. Was hoping for some pictures from your camera not screen shot pictures.

 

[latecurtis]

You could buy some Lifepo4 CALB 100Ah from place DrkAngel linked to but CALB is like the size of a computer atx case if you want 36V but its cheap. Actually they have several sizes from 60Ah-100Ah.

Are they built with BMSs. Or do I have to build them.

I do not remember those links. Can you post the links so I can look at them ?

18650 packs are extremally dangerous. They could easily burn down the house.

I spent about $633 for 24 - LTOs. It is about time I start using some of them. At least I used most of the 26650 cells I paid $230 for. Now it is time to get my moneys worth from the LTOs.

Bulky

Not really.

Even with 1/4" ply between the cells it is only an extra inch width and height. 15 - LTOS are < less space than 12S - LIFEPO4. It takes two black boxes to make 12S LIFEPO4. And 180 solder joints as 90 cells. (pics below post).

Anyone who reads this and wants to help I am still researching DC step up voltage boosters. I need a good one and > 90% efficiency. Has to be safe to use. I never used one but should as 15 - LTOs is 26 pounds so close to 30 pounds when built. It would be over 40 pounds for 48V and about 50 pounds 24S - 60V so way too much weight.

It will have a 36V separate connection from the connection to the DC booster so can run 36V and 53V or 60V at same time.

15S with a proper DC booster and separate fuses. No soldering required on any cells. It is better than solder or spot weld. I need ring terminals. I may need to solder 10 gauge wire to them but never a cell as screw terminals. :thumb:

I want active balance and if can do BMS as well then Bluetooth.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Bicycle-Lithium-Polymer-Battery/dp/B07MVX34GQ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2CC159TYQLH0W&dchild=1&keywords=36v+lithium+battery+charger+10+amp&qid=1631426978&sprefix=10+amp+36V+charger%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-5



Not too bad for a charger. 420 watts. A 940W - 20 amp would be more desirable but can live with 420 for that price. Not sure how much a 20 amp would be ?

Please let me know.

12:37 AM 9/12/21

Just did the measurements for inside dimensions to fit three rows of five. - 12 L 7.5W 7.5H. Now I just add 1 inch to length and 3/4 for height so all cells are separated and that is inside dimensions. Add 1/4" to get outside dimensions. Probably 2 inches in length as would be most compact putting BMS on the end.

Looks like 16" long , 9.25" wide and 8" high. That is by eye and a quick measurement of the box they came in however. I will need to take precise measurements. The cells will be horizonal like in the box they shipped in. (bottom pic below post).

I will be cutting all the separators from 1/4" plywood and using wood glue to build it. No screws. I will primer and paint the wood flat black inside and outside. I could get stick on letters any color LTO and put them on each side.

I will cut the 10 gauge wire I have to exact length to solder ring terminals for series connections. The BMS wires will solder to the rings with the 10 gauge wire.

The DC voltage booster will need to be an enclosed unit and always be hooked to the controller it is used with. Like part of the controller mounted really close to the controller. I think the controller for the 26" 1,000W motor is variable from 48 to 60V. Not positive but think so.

Does anyone know what is a good or decent DC booster that is not hundreds of bucks please let me know or post a link. Under $100 would be great. I am not even considering those cheap $20 or $30 e bay boosters that are open.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Probably the same place you bought your batteries, drkangel bought many batteries from and posted in this thread.

https://batteryhookup.com/

Dunno why your so stuck on BMS this and Active Balancer that when you buy random cheap stuff from whomever is spinning their wares with zero research or searching. Might as well throw a dart at BMSBattery or just buy one of their batteries or chargers for whatever random direction your going next.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea but DA. buys 18650 Lithium ion.

I buy LIFEPO4 and LTO.

LTO rules.

I do not need a 36V , 48V and 60V pack.

A DC booster replaces three packs with one pack. A 10 to 20 amp charger enables fast charge so portable on the go.

It just makes sense.

Also I can build it smaller. I don't need 1/4" between cells. 1/8"



I just drill holes in the wood for the threaded ends of the cells and attach the sides. all cells are 1/8" apart.

1/4" Lexan would be way better than wood. I could build the box from that and put fancy lights in it and do my wheels all in blue LED. Or multicolor.

plenty room for series connections and balance wires between the 1/4" and 1/8" Lexan on the top and bottom or sides as the dimensions will be exactly the same if I use Lexan vs wood. And totally transparent.

Not sure if a 3D printer prints Lexan or a clear plastic similar to Lexan but would be the perfect tool to print the panels as could accurately place the holes for the sides for the threaded ends of the cells.

They make 3D printers as cheap as < $100 I saw but not for 16" printing so since the pack will be 16" in length or close will probably need a $200 to $300 3D printer.

If not will have to duct tape all 15 LTOs with 1/8" spacers and use paint on the ends of the threads to spot mark where the holes need to be drilled. Not an easy task but possible. If a 3D printer don't print clear material like Lexan I will have to do it anyway.
Or just use wood and space 1/4". That is the easy way.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Thought you'd be bombing around with those 48V 13s 6.4Ah 100A output Panasonic bricks. You got 2, right? Paired up, should outperform anything else you have!

They have got to be the best, ready to use, bargain buy, you've ever made! Just add XT60 connector.

Put the pair in saddle bags and fly ...
48V 12.8Ah and 200A continuous output, at 2x 8lb = 16lb, in strong durable frames seems an ideal eBike battery?

 

[latecurtis]

Thought you'd be bombing around with those 48V 13s 6.4Ah 100A output Panasonic bricks. You got 2, right? Paired up, should outperform anything else you have!

Yea. I still need a BMS for those. I have to build a battery box as well for those. They will fit on the top bar or in a frame rack on the 20: bike with the 1,800W brushless motor. I can run them for that exclusively and maybe get a 2 kilowatt controller.

You are saying the power modules will out perform LTOs ?????

If so for how long ?????

LTOs can be charged 30,000 times. How many times can those power modules be charged ?

I will need 350 amps for the FX - 75 - 5 motor and 80V. I will need 12 more LISHEN - 18AH - LTOs.

LTOs are 50C discharge. If that means 80V * 50 = 4,000W then they wont run the FX 75-5 motor. The controller is 350A. I will need an 80V - 350 amp battery. If there is nothing better than LTOs I guess I can never use the FX motor.

The 15S - 36V - LTO pack can run every single e bike I own though if I pair it with a good DC booster. That is because it will be 36V AND 48 , 54 or 60V with a booster for dual motor set ups where I run 36V on the front and 48 to 60V rear. Those power modules can not do that. They would blow up a Bafang motor at 53V.

The power modules will be a perfect match for the 1,800W brushless motor as the controller is 1,500W and 48V but unless I get a DC booster they will not put out 60V so will not get the full potential from the 70 amp 60V brushless controller for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. I would still need the DC booster to make those work.

Also I spent $633 for 24 - LTOs and about $100 for the power modules. I thought they could run the FX motor but if not I really need to get some of my moneys worth from the LTOs. A 15S - LTO pack with a BMS or active balancer + a good DC booster need to happen now. It is time as that will run ALL my e bikes. 36V , 53V or 60V and dual motors 36V front and 53 or 60V rear.

OK. I think I found something.

right? Paired up, should outperform anything else you have!

100 amps or 200 amps will not beat 400 amps. I just was not sure what 50C discharge was so looked up amp discharge instead.




Ok If the LTOs are good for 400 amps I just need to know how many for the 80V FX controller and what gauge wire for the series connection for the 15S pack as I will need it in series with a larger pack for the FX motor. The 15S - LTO pack can run every single e bike with the booster but must also work for the FX - 75 - 5 motor so will need a 350 amp BMS AND wiring.

I need 350 amp connecters



Not sure if they are even for LISHEN. There are larger 40 Ah cells made in China. I am having trouble locating what I need for series connections. They need to fit my batteries and do 350 amps.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Thought you'd be bombing around with those 48V 13s 6.4Ah 100A output Panasonic bricks. You got 2, right? Paired up, should outperform anything else you have!

Yea. I still need a BMS for those. ...

I will need 350 amps for the FX - 75 - 5 motor and 80V. I will need 12 more LISHEN - 18AH - LTOs.

LTOs are 50C discharge. If that means 80V * 50 = 4,000W then they wont run the FX 75-5 motor. The controller is 350A. I will need an 80V - 350 amp battery. If there is nothing better than LTOs I guess I can never use the FX motor.

Why would you need a BMS on those 13s bricks, they already have a good balance board. Just watch pack voltage.

Don't know if you are drunk or stoned or electrically illiterate, but your math on LTO output is staggeringly convoluted and inaccurate!

 

[latecurtis]

I really do not know how many amps my LISHEN - 18AH LTOs will do ????

It is why I was asking you. I saw 400 amps and posted that but not sure if that is 40 AH LTOs. I own 18 Ah LTOs NOT 40 AH.

The question is will my LTOs run the 28 kilowatt FX controller or not ? I know I will need more LTOs as I own 24 and at least 32 is required. Maybe 34. I do not know what fully charged standing voltage for LTOs is. I just know the FX controller says 80V and 350 amps.

I am looking for answers. Also 350 amp busbars if the LTOs will do 350 amps.

I am looking to build a 15S - LTO battery. It will run ALL my 36V motors and controllers and paired with a DC voltage booster my 48V and 60V controllers.

The 15S pack also needs to be capable of 350 amps when in series with a larger LTO pack for the FX - 75 - 5 motor.

The 13S power modules will work the way they are for the 1,800W motor and 1,500W controller but will need a DC booster for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and 60V controller.

I can use the same DC booster as long as input is 36 to 53V and output 48 to 60V or > 60V. That would be great as only need to buy one DC booster for the 15S LTOs AND the 53V power modules.

If the 60V 3 kilowatt controller will work with 53V I wont need the booster but that is a question I asked many pages back and got no answer. I would like to run the power modules for both the 1,800W brushless AND the 3 kilowatt brushless motor. 53V = 2,6650W if the LVC don't cut off on the 60V controller ???????

3,000W / 60V = 50 * 53 = 2,650W

Plenty of power for 40+ mph gearing ??????????

AS far as the 12S - LIFEPO4s I was disenchanted with the discharge rate. They do not seem to put out any where near the amps in the video where 4 - 26650 cells in series started a car.

Of course it could be the wimpy 26 amp controller hooked to the 1,000W chain drive. Either way I WILL get my moneys worth out of the 12S LIFE packs I built.

Here is why.



I am about to run the 12S - LIFE packs right now with the 26" Diamondback Outlook with Dual Bafang motors and 17 amp controllers so 34 amps. The LIFEPO4 will work great between 30 and 44 amps. I do not need to push 50 , 60 or more amps. That is what the power modules and LTOs are for.

I will be building that silver Diamondback in the picture for a second Dual Bafang e bike. I will post a video when I get back of the Dual Bafangs on the 26" Diamondback Outlook.


OK. Back to the LTOs.


15S - LTO WITH a DC booster will run the 26" dual suspension with the Bafang on the front @ 36V and the 1,000W 48V hub motor on the back at 53V or 60V as I might upgrade it to 60V. One battery for two motors of different voltage.

Likewise if I find a 30 amp 36V controller or 48V controller for the rear Currie motor I will have that option as I think the 36V controller now is only 26 amps. My videos show that. It could be upgraded and should be 30+ mph capable. Only 28 mph now.

I spent > $600 on the LTOs. It just makes sense to build a 15S pack. With a booster to run every e bike I own.

I can still use the power modules but only for one of my e bikes. Maybe two ?????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

I am looking for answers.
LC. out.

And then don't bother to listen or follow the best advice.

 

[DrkAngel]

Voltage booster:
You do realize that a 36V battery with 40A output (1440w), through a voltage booster, to 80V might only output ~15A (1200w).

 

[markz]

So you didnt read the specs of the battery when you bought it, or did the seller not have a specifications sheet?

I really do not know how many amps my LISHEN - 18AH LTOs will do ????

It is why I was asking you.

 

[nicobie]

Isn't booze and pot enough? Now it's shroons? Or have you graduated to the good stuff... U know

 

[latecurtis]

Voltage booster:
You do realize that a 36V battery with 40A output , through a voltage booster, to 80V might only output ~15A.

NO !!!!

I never said I wanted to boost from 36V to 80V. I know my posts are really long and probably did not read it all so I will attempt to shorten it up.

LTOs are 2.4V nominal. LIFEPO4 is 3.4V nominal.

Charging voltage for both types are higher than that and also higher than standard voltage after a full charge.

I bought LTOs for the FX - 75 - 5 motor. I bought 24 - LTOs total so IF and that is a HUGE IF as I never charged LTO batteries so if a fully charged LTO battery is 2.5V after being charged then I would want 16 - LTOs for 36V. NOT 15 as 16 * 2.5V = 40V

The 26" Dual suspension runs a 48V - 1,000W hub motor in the rear and a 36V Bafang in the front.
I only need to boost from 36 - 40V to 53V and am looking for 30 amps. 53V * 30 amps = 1,590 watts.

As far as getting 60V to the 3 kilowatt Brushless controller I can use the power modules which are 53V. I just do not know if it will run with the 60V controller but if I get a GOOD QUALITY DC booster it should be able to boost 53V to 60 or 60+V and 50 amps. 60V * 50 amps = 3,000W.

I was hoping to run a single DC booster and be able to hook it up to a 1,500W controller and boost a 16S - LTO pack from 36 - 40V to 53V.

AND

a 3 kilowatt controller and boost the power modules from 53V to 60V but only if I need to. If the 60V - 3,000W controller will work with the 53V power modules I can get 2,650W and still gear the bike for approx. 43 mph.

As far as 80V is concerned the FX - 75 - 5 controller is rated at 80V and 350 amps. I posted pictures several pages back and will need to find it.

When I build the 16S - LTO pack I will have 8 LTO cells left. If I buy a box of 12 for about $315 I can build a 20S - pack and should be 50V as 20 * 2.5V = 50.

There will be NO boosting going on for 80V. It will be the 16S pack in series with a 20S pack for 36S - LTO but only IF the FX - 75 -5 controller will handle 90V as is rated for 80V.

Here is the FX - 75 - 5 controller.



Here is the 60V controller I want to boost from 53 to 60V but only if I need to to get 2,650W. I am not understanding the under voltage rating. I asked that question before and got no answer so why I did not use the power modules yet.



I shot a video with the 12S LIFE packs. I am waiting on it to upload.

The power modules will fit on the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor but only a 1,500W controller.

42V ÷ 12s = 3.5V
3.5V = 95% charged

So ... 42V Li-Ion charger should work well with 12s LiFe
No need for balancing with matched LiFe, Standard 3.60-3.65V equalizes retained voltage near 3.40V.

Going to try that right now awhile I am waiting for the youtube video to upload.



The thing is I have all those 18650 cells and packs sitting around. All I want is the power modules and my 13S - 20 Ah pack. I am done with 18650 cells. They are inferior technology. They can burn down your house charging them and even catch a person on fire awhile riding an e bike .




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-Tmu-jGwgY

There is the video. Nothing special just a reliable , street legal e bike which is under 750W and goes 20 mph top speed. It is not the best e bike but very reliable transportation.

I know I have way too many questions but LTOs are brand new to me. I know how to run and charge LIFE now but not LTO.

I spent a lot of money on the LTO though and justified it because I have the FX - 75-5 motor and controller. However for 80V will need 12 more LISHEN 18 Ah cells. In the meantime a 15 or 16S pack and DC booster from 40 to 54V and at least 30 amps just makes sense.

The 16S - LTO pack must be 350 amp capable to run in series with 20S - LTO for the SEVCON controller I posted the pic. of above. I cant cheap out on the series / power connections or BMS / active balancer. It must be 350 amps and the same manufacturer as the 20S - BMS or active balancer I will need for 80V.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Who cares what the voltage is for the controller, yea there is a set lvc but just change the resistor for the lvc resistor network and be sure not to go close to or above the big capacitor voltage.

You should start standardizing all 3 or 4 of your ebikes to a common point otherwise you have different parts for this that and the other.

 

[latecurtis]

Well it is like this.

1. ) I got 4 e bikes running and two I am working on and one to build not counting the FX - 75 - 5 project. That will be an electric dirt bike or motorcycle.

2.) I got rid of the dangerous LiPos several months ago now and would really like to 86 any pack built with 18650 lithium ion technology.

There is just no sense in running a chemistry capable of thermal runaway no matter how slight the chance is when LIFEPO4 and LTO batteries exist. That is just my opinion.

They can burn a building down as well as a human being. The videos I saw prove that no Batt safe or ammo box will work. Only a fireman trained for chemical electrical fires with proper equipment could deal with that. By the time they get there a person or dwelling will be burnt toast.

That said the other advantages to Lithium iron phosphate and Lithium Titanite technology is higher discharge and lightening fast charge rates compared to Lion and LiPo. The only drawbacks to LIFE and LTO is less energy density and extra size and weight.

I think the pros greatly outweigh the cons.

I know that all the 18650 cells and packs I have are worth something but frankly just want them gone. Only the Power modules and the 13S - 20 AH pack I paid around $200 for about 16 months ago I am keeping.

ou should start standardizing all 3 or 4 of your ebikes to a common point otherwise you have different parts for this that and the other.

1.) The 20" Turbo with the 800W 48V hub motor. - Battery. 13S - 20Ah - exclusively.

2.) The 26" Diamondback Outlook with dual Bafang motors. - Battery - 12S LIFEPO4.

3.) The Currie ezip Trailz. 36V - 1,000W rear chain and 36V Bafang up front. - 12S LIFEPO4. _ needs a better brush controller.

4.) The 26" Dual suspension 48V , 1,000W hub rear and 36V Bafang front. Needs 16S - LTO with DC boost to 53V.

5.) The 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor. - Battery. Pending 13S power modules.

6. The 26" Haro V3 with 3 kilowatt brushless motor/controller. Pending 13S power modules and possible DC booster.

7.) The 26" Giant Roam. - R 26"/ F 700c with dual 500W e bikeling motors. - battery - 12S LIFEPO4.

8.) The dirt or road bike (motorcycle) - battery 32S to 36S - 80 - 90V - LTO.350 amps.

The common denominator for the entire list is a 15 or 16S LTO pack. Depending on standing voltage of fully charged LTO.

A 40V - LTO pack paired with a DC booster to 53 or 54V and a separate 36V plug enables me to run ALL of my current e bikes and future builds. If or when the power modules fail and the 13S - 20AH Lion pack needs recycling the 40V - LTO pack will keep running. 30,000 charge cycles.

The bonus is the same 40V pack in series with a second 40 or 50V LTO pack will run the 28 kilowatt SEVCON controller for 80 to 90 mph operation via the FX - 75 -5 motor.

Why the hell not. I paid over $600 for LTOs. Why would I want them sitting around ???

I was told that my 12S - LIFEPO4s were junk and would start a fire and I should buy a factory LIFEPO4 pack and should spot weld.

That was a lot of lame advice. I built them and they run. They do not start a fire and power any 36V controller I hook to them.

I am just way way over my head. With LTOs , the SEVCON 28 kilowatt controller and building my first LTO pack.

Also finding a decent DC booster and LTO BMS or active balancer.

I need 10 to 20 amp or 420 to 1,000W chargers for LIFE and LTO. The 12S LIFEPO4 pack is not high capacity and not sure about LTO as never run them. I know a fast charge could get me home so wont have to push the bike.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[tomjasz]

All those builds and not one that isn't half-assed.

 

[latecurtis]

All those builds and not one that isn't half-assed.

You keep mumbling the same thing over and over. It is redundant.

The fact is ANY build can be upgraded and improved. Not just motors , controllers and batteries but cargo, dashboard electronics ,paint and stickers.

Instead of the same negative BS. Why not let me know how to upgrade and improve my builds. Most people I see riding down the street would disagree with you. You just have higher standards than most. Your builds look factory and professional. Mine could also with proper upgrades or improvements.

Voltage booster:
You do realize that a 36V battery with 40A output (1440w), through a voltage booster, to 80V might only output ~15A (1200w).

Yea. That is the best I could find. They got the cheap ones but like an enclosure. Was hoping for variable 36 - 42V in and 48 to 60V variable out. = or > 30 amps.


https://daygreen.com/products/24v-to-48v-30a-1500w-dc-dc-step-up-converter-voltage-regulator




Right now I an concerned about my next battery build. A 36 - 42V - LTO battery. Then when I find a suitable DC booster. The battery will run ALL my e bikes including dual motors with different voltage requirements.

My budget for a booster is $150. I will also need bus bars or wire for all series connections rated at 350 amps. Then a 350 amp BMS or active balancer.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I thought you were done spending money on ebikes.

https://daygreen.com/products/24v-to-48v-30a-1500w-dc-dc-step-up-converter-voltage-regulator
download (1).png

 

[latecurtis]

I thought you were done spending money on ebikes.

Well Yes and NO.

I spent $230 on LIFEPO4s.

230 / 80 = 2.875 * 60 = $172. That is what the 12S pack I built costs. So at least 60 out of 80 cells are being used.

I can not say the same for the LTOs.

$630 / 24 = 26.25 * 16 = $420

If I build a 16S - 36 - 42V LTO pack I will be using a $420 battery. with 8 cells left over for a future pack. I can live with that for now.

However I can NOT live with $630 - LTOs just sitting there in a box. That just makes no sense at all.

Basically A 16S - 36 - 42V pack with a good DC booster will run every single e bike I have practically forever.

Instead of buying more large , dangerous and expensive 18650 packs that take forever to charge I can invest in 500W to 1,000W - LIFEPO4 AND LTO chargers.

It just makes sense man.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[nicobie]

Quit dreaming and start doing. Instead of always asking others, do it yourself. All those long posts are a waste of time. Think what you could get done if you weren't always pissing your time away in front of that screen wearing away your fingerprints.

 

[DrkAngel]

Instead of buying more large , dangerous and expensive 18650 packs that take forever to charge I can invest in 500W to 1,000W - LIFEPO4 AND LTO chargers.

Even the wimpiest 18650's recommend charging at .5C, for a 2.5-3hr full charge, with many rated for charging at 1C, or greater..
Dangerous? Modern, reputable brand name cells are extremely safe!
Expensive? Li-ion, in 18650, or 26650, cost and weigh half as much and take up half the space of LiFe.

And what is this crap about needing an active balancer for your LTO, are they defective? The only reason for an active balancer would be as a band-aid on a defective battery till you can fix it. Adding to a good battery ... it will do absolutely nothing. Like LiFe, LTOs are auto balancing during charge, even when somewhat defective in some different ways.

 

[DrkAngel]

4.) The 26" Dual suspension 48V , 1,000W hub rear and 36V Bafang front. Needs 16S - LTO with DC boost to 53V.

One of the stupidest things yet.
A 36V geared hub dragging along an unpowered 48V 1000w DD hub, max efficiency might only near 50% ? Resistance likely to be something similar to very soft tires or going up hill!

 

[latecurtis]

One of the stupidest things yet.
A 36V geared hub dragging along an unpowered 48V 1000w DD hub, max efficiency might only near 50% ? Resistance likely to be something similar to very soft tires or going up hill!

Well , there is a very good reason for that.

The 1,000W - 48V DD motor was repaired and switched to a sensor less greentime controller.

I wanted to run a direct drive front and rear but have not found anything less than $200.

The DD motor on the back is a front hub motor that SUNDER sent me way back at the start of this post.

The Bafang on the front was for flat only up to 15 mph. A separate throttle for the rear on the left.

I figured if the rear motor stopped working the Bafang would at least get me home without pushing except for up hills. Also the rear DD is sensor less so takes a second or so to kick in so the front is for take off when using both throttles.

The Currie also runs a Bafang up front but uses a single throttle and two DC breakers to run the front solo on the flat up to 15 mph. There is not as much drag though as a chain drive and not a DD hub.

We can fix the 26" dual suspension though by putting a 1,000W direct drive in the rear and also have a pedal chain and pedal gears like it was set up before. The front DD can go up front where it belongs.

I will just need a little information on this seller / vender. I do not want to get scammed. It looks too good to be true.

https://www.xsqwiy.com/aw-26-quotx175-quot-rear-wheel-electric-bicycle-lcd-display-motor-kit-e-bike-conversion-48v1000w



https://www.xsqwiy.com/Bikes/

I am looking for solutions , upgrades. That would be an awesome upgrade for the 26" Dual suspension. I can use the Bafang on there now for another dual motor Bafang build on a lighter bike.

https://www.xsqwiy.com/Bikes/135mm-dropout-72v-2000w-rear-wheel-motor-70-75km-h-2000w-electric-bike-kitelectric-bicycle-conversion-kit-with-mutifunction-sw900-display72v-45a-sine-wave-controller-with-7-speed-flywheel


https://www.xsqwiy.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=hub%20motor%20

Please let me know if that is a legitimate seller or would I be throwing my money away ?

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

The Currie also runs a Bafang up front but uses a single throttle and two DC breakers to run the front solo on the flat up to 15 mph. There is not as much drag though as a chain drive and not a DD hub.

Nope, the motor, being much higher rpm, likely has more drag, with the chain and gears being additional drag!
Still, with the 2 different voltages, I still rate The 26" Dual suspension as #1.