new tsdz8 pswpower

I have 52 V battery and it's working fine. I don't know of percentages I use volts. On display bars go red and disappear long before battery is empty. I use 860C display,
I clarify I use OSF. Here is pictures from display. Sorry bad quality of pictures.
One_red_bar_left.jpgTwo_yellow_bars.jpg
 
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Instead of trying to once again over torque the life out of the motor locknut (started to loosen again, this time after 2500 miles since the last time when i used a 3ft extension and killed the OEM wrench :D ) I tried adding this m5 bolt and custom nut i made from aluminium flat stock to the vacant bolt hole in the motor mounting plate. Its has potentially a lot of force to deal with, but hopefully its mostly shear force going through that thing.
This solution of course won't work on most standard bike frames, this is a Giant Revive so everything its weird on it.
The motor has now been in use just over a year, I've put 4200 miles on it in that time, still seems to work as new. I rode 1000 miles during the admittedly unusually mild winter in Southern Finland, still quite a few freezing temperature trips, no issues.
I had to look at this picture a few times. So is the purpose of the custom nut to mechanically keep the motor from rotating down/counterclockwise, when looking at the pic? The first time I looked at it, I thought is was something to directly keep the locknut from loosening, but now I think I'm seeing it stops it from loosening by keeping the motor from moving.
 
I also encountered problems with the motor spinning with my TSDZ8 on a Cannondale SuperV frame.

To prevent it from spinning permanently (and without having to force the nut and locknut), I made a bracket from a 3 mm thick steel plate that I welded to the edge of the plate behind the nuts and with two locations for the screws on the motor.

The bracket rests on the frame (where the swingarm axle passes): the motor hasn't moved since.
 

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the motor spins because the tool that comes with the kit for installation is kind of trash and youre not able to get enough torque by your own strength.
solution: after torquing down by hand as much as you can, take a mallet or rubber mallet and hit the tool with it, this way you can install it way tighter (how it should be)
 
Personally, I find it unmechanical to hit a wrench to tighten. If necessary, you can put a tube on the end of the tool to tighten it more tightly, but some people have tried it, according to the posts above, and apparently it still turns.
With support from a tab, it doesn't move and doesn't require forcing the tightening.
 
Do not know if it work for you, but between the underside of the down-tube and the top of the motor casing I form Quiksteel 16402 aluminum reinforced epoxy putty into a wide thick wedge piece, wide to spread the load, make sure you have the drive loose and turned away from the down-tube whilst inserting the wedge so you can shape it, when happy roll the drive towards the down-tube spreading the putty and then nip the locking nut up until the putty is dry and the fully tighten. On the underside of the down-tube and top of the motor casing I put black insulating tape so one can remove the drive and the wedge. I have used this on all my TSDZ2(B) drive as I only ride full suspension. I am OK now as I have a tool for tightening the TSDZ2(B) lock nuts up to the the correct torque but it was expensive, a bit rough and ready but makes life easier.
 

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So far I believe only 68 / 73mm BB are available. The 100mm and 120mm TSDZ2 versions use an add-on extender which are not that great.
 
Otherwise you are back to the Bafang BBS02 fat bike conversion, I have no knowledge of how good it is, myself I prefer the way the Tongsheng drives work.
 
I had an AKM mid-drive years back, Bafang clone, got 17 mile range with it, changed to TSDZ2 30 mile range.
 
Is anyone using a 52V battery? Can this voltage be adjusted with the EKD01 display? What other settings can be altered too?
 
Yes, the display can be set for 52v. Most other setting are related to the displayed data (kmh vs mph, etc.), except the speed limit.
But you need to reflash the firmware, no? What about the DFL11 display? I assume it's an upgraded version of the EKD01 display, but does it support 52V without flashing modded firmware?

I'm indecisive between getting a TSDZ16 or a TSDZ8 with the new DFL11 display, since most kits on AliExpress bundle that instead of the 860C, which is way more expensive, and has similar features, so it's not worth it for me.
 
But you need to reflash the firmware, no? What about the DFL11 display? I assume it's an upgraded version of the EKD01 display, but does it support 52V without flashing modded firmware?

I'm indecisive between getting a TSDZ16 or a TSDZ8 with the new DFL11 display, since most kits on AliExpress bundle that instead of the 860C, which is way more expensive, and has similar features, so it's not worth it for me.
My comments are based on the stock firmware, for the version of firmware that came with the TSDZ8 kit. I can't vouch for how the firmware is set up for other motors like Bafangs, etc.

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Hello, This is my Trek Marlin 8 gen 3. Will motor TSDZ8 fit with it? Cut off a piece of the aluminum cable cover. Anyone with experience with Trek Gen 3 bike and TSDZ8? I have 30T chainring now. Thank You.
 

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Hello, This is my Trek Marlin 8 gen 3. Will motor TSDZ8 fit with it? Cut off a piece of the aluminum cable cover. Anyone with experience with Trek Gen 3 bike and TSDZ8? I have 30T chainring now. Thank You.
With those chainstays, I don’t think you’ll have a useable chain line, even if you use an aftermarket spider and chainring.
 
Hey can someone tell me how to figure out which firmware I have?
I have a varstrom tsdz8 kit with ekd01 display.
The first 2 levels are super weak, 3 is almost perfect, 4 is ok and 5 is turbo.

How is it with the updated firmware?
I don't want to use OSF yet because I really enjoy it so far.

IMG_8983.jpeg
 
Hey can someone tell me how to figure out which firmware I have?
I have a varstrom tsdz8 kit with ekd01 display.
The first 2 levels are super weak, 3 is almost perfect, 4 is ok and 5 is turbo.

How is it with the updated firmware?
I don't want to use OSF yet because I really enjoy it so far.
You have the crappy stock firmware, although I’d argue that even 3, 4, and 5 suck too. The updated firmware is fine as far as I’m concerned, but the feel of the OSF is supposed to be an improvement. With the updated firmware, level 5 is stronger than stock, and the level 1 and 2 do something, pedal response is improved, and the throttle is somewhat useable.

The downside is you need to buy the same hardware to update it as you do for flashing OSF.
 
You have the crappy stock firmware, although I’d argue that even 3, 4, and 5 suck too. The updated firmware is fine as far as I’m concerned, but the feel of the OSF is supposed to be an improvement. With the updated firmware, level 5 is stronger than stock, and the level 1 and 2 do something, pedal response is improved, and the throttle is somewhat useable.

The downside is you need to buy the same hardware to update it as you do for flashing OSF.
I already have the hardware, still need to build the cable for the jlink though.
Why do you think 3 4 and 5 suck?
The more I pedal the more power it adds.
On level 3 I am getting an okay workout still but go 30-35kph easily.
Level 4 I only use on steep hills so far.

Bear in mind this is on a 25kg cargo-bike, with me and some payload 120kg+

I went 4x 30km commute with it so far and I like it.
Battery consumption is somewhat high tho, Im usually in the 250-500W range (according to the bms).

I dont use a throttle, its a bicycle.
If I want a throttle I take the old Africa Twin.
 
I have 52 V battery and it's working fine. I don't know of percentages I use volts. On display bars go red and disappear long before battery is empty. I use 860C display,
Many thanks for this, I've ordered a TSDZ8 with EKD01 display. I've fixed our TSDZ2 from 2019 with OSF, but will transplant the Z8 motor over in due course
 
Hey can someone tell me how to figure out which firmware I have?
I have a varstrom tsdz8 kit with ekd01 display.
The first 2 levels are super weak, 3 is almost perfect, 4 is ok and 5 is turbo.

How is it with the updated firmware?
I don't want to use OSF yet because I really enjoy it so far.

View attachment 374518
I saw a YouTube video yesterday, yours is the latest firmware with added features

 
Hello, This is my Trek Marlin 8 gen 3. Will motor TSDZ8 fit with it? Cut off a piece of the aluminum cable cover. Anyone with experience with Trek Gen 3 bike and TSDZ8? I have 30T chainring now. Thank You.
With a TSDZ2(B) the cable runs under the BB are tight when so I would thing you may have to cut a bit of the down-tube out where the cables appear out at the bottom of the down-tube. But I do not know what the clearances are on the TSDZ8. With my builds I have usually routed the small gear change cables between the BB and the drive casing but have routed the hydraulic brake hoses over the top of the BB.
 
I already have the hardware, still need to build the cable for the jlink though.
Why do you think 3 4 and 5 suck?
The more I pedal the more power it adds.
On level 3 I am getting an okay workout still but go 30-35kph easily.
Level 4 I only use on steep hills so far.

Bear in mind this is on a 25kg cargo-bike, with me and some payload 120kg+

I went 4x 30km commute with it so far and I like it.
Battery consumption is somewhat high tho, Im usually in the 250-500W range (according to the bms).

I dont use a throttle, its a bicycle.
If I want a throttle I take the old Africa Twin.
Sounds like it works well for you in your riding environment. Probably not worth the hassle of upgrading.
 
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