Opinions on QS273 V4 72V 3000W hub motor?

[Basil]

Pardon if this isn't the correct section for asking this. I have a Model T Ford that was turned into a 3 wheeler in the past, a motorcycle swing arm and engine were mounted in the back and between the frame. I'd like to replace that rear wheel with an electric motorcycle hub motor.

I've found this one online, it says up to 120kph, so that's around 74mph. The car is very light, around 400lbs, excluding whatever the rear hub motor and batteries would weigh (not forgetting the 200lb driver). Do you think this would be a capable motor, able to let me hit 50mph with the combined weight?

17 inch 72V 6000 Watt Electric Motorcycle QS273 V4 Hub Motor

It's 17 inch 72V 6000 Watt Electric Motorcycle QS273 V4 Hub Motor, high power in wheel electric hub motor for motorcycle, the max speed can reach 72V 110KPH.

www.cnqsmotor.com

 

[E-HP]

Model T Ford I'd like to replace that rear wheel with an electric motorcycle hub motor.

I've found this one online, it says up to 120kph, so that's around 74mph.
The car is very light, around 400lbs, excluding whatever the rear hub motor and batteries would weigh (not forgetting the 200lb driver).

Do you think this would be a capable motor, able to let me hit 50mph with the combined weight?

Do you have any hills, even small ones?
If so, the weight/load requirement conflicts with the speed requirement, since torque and speed are trade offs, so in order to get both, you may need to go with a bigger motor.

Using the Grin simulator, using wind resistance value of CdA=0.85 (based on google search on model T Ford wind resistance), tire diameter of 24.17" (assuming a 130/70-17 tire), and motor Kv ratings of 9 and 9.44 (high and low Kv windings for the QS273 V4 for comparison, running at 72V:

On flat ground, the faster wind motor achieves 50 mph, but heat could be an issue if riding that speed continuously. The slower wind motor only achieves 36mph and stays very cool.

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

ebikes.ca

Adding in a tiny 2% grade, and the fast wind motor cooks itself pretty quickly, while the slow wind motor remains cool as a cucumber.
Both simulations use the Cromotor (big hub), since the QS motor is not modeled, however by using the custom parameters, it should be a reasonable approximation on where the issues may occur.

Motor Simulator - Tools

Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...

ebikes.ca

 

[amberwolf]

I have a Model T Ford that was turned into a 3 wheeler in the past, a motorcycle swing arm and engine were mounted in the back and between the frame.

Before anything else, we demand pictures. Lots and lots of pictures.

(just kidding...but really....PICTURES! )

I'd like to replace that rear wheel with an electric motorcycle hub motor.

E-HP has covered some of the basics above.

Others include:

Make sure to build and use correct axle mounting hardware to prevent the axle from being able to move *at all* in the dropouts. If it can spin or wiggle or move at all, then it is going to damage the dropouts, begin rocking the axle itself, damage or destroy the dropouts, and possibly snap the axle when you accelerate or brake, rip up the wiring into the axle, and short the wires together destroying the controller and the motor hall sensors (and possibly other things powered by the controller's 5v).

Experiment with the simulator linked above and use the worst case or average wattage you find your terrain, riding conditions, weight, speed, etc require to overcome and do the job you want to do, to determine how many watt-hours wh your battery must be to give you the range you need, and how much power / current that battery must provide worst case for doing the hardest parts of the job.

Then you can use that guesstimate to find or build a battery that will do what you want. I'd recommend used EV-modules from places like greentecauto or batteryhookup, etc, as they will be better, even used, than the "new" stuff you'll typically find for motorcycles, scooters, ebikes, etc.

 

[Basil]

I have very mild roads around me, though I've one major one to contend with. I live in a town that's on a plateau on top of a hill, so most all my shopping is done here on the flat land. Though to leave town and get back... there's a mile long stretch that is fairly steep. I could always just use my car for that. This is a 3 wheeled Model T after all, no trunk space, my goal is to run to a local store for a bottle of wine or a missing dinner ingredient. My top speed goal of 50mph is hopeful thinking, though I know 40 would probably be adequate. But who doesn't want a tad more power?

When I got it there was steel box beams bolted to the bottom of the frame, mounting the motor and swing arm. A wooden pickup bed that the swing arm shocks bolted onto. He had tried to make an aluminum hood that was also a gas tank, all fiberglassed onto a fiberglass 32 ford grill shell. Last year I stripped away the motor, box beams, bed and gas tank/grill mess, as well as the water pipe roll bar and steering column mount. I picked up a much sturdier Model A front suspension, much easier to lower and add hydraulic brakes to. As well as picking up a mid 20s Oldsmobile grill shell to replace the ruined 32 Ford grill shell.

The easy way would be to add an ATV (thus having a reverse) GY6 scooter motor in back, then just learn to live with that tiny rear wheel. Though I've wanted to build an electric vehicle for ages now and this is a blank canvas.

I will attempt to figure out how to use the simulator that was shown, but I am a novice at best.