Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit
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zombiess
10 MW
carsonwen said:
MC means motorcycle or moped. MC rims are much stronger because they are designed for vehicles that weigh several hundred pounds. The entire wheel ends up being many times stronger than a MTB wheel at the cost of addition weight. Overall cost wise the parts and labor are about the same.
The rims are heavier than bicyle rims but the major additional weight comes from the tires. Strength is a bonus but the main reason most of us switch to Mac setups is the tires are a HUGE improvement over any bicycle tire.
sk8norcal
1 MW
Rix said:
60's? perhaps you meant year 2000
http://www.deseretnews.com/article/814727/New-electrifying-idea-Lee-Iacoccas-E-Bike.html
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carsonwen said:
diameter, size, weight, strength, intended use, spoke/nipple size, etc..
MC obviously must be much stronger for the additional weight power use durability of a motorcycle..
Mtb lighter than mc wheels but heavier duty than street bicycle wheels..
if offroad riding on heavy ebike consider mc wheels for better strength durability but heavier..
probably overkill for road riding (unless roads are bad
or desired for more durable mc tire choices..
LSBW
100 W
sk8norcal said:
LOL. Apparently domain ebike.com is available/or for sale. Hmm, interesting...
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carsonwen said:
correct, except that bicycle wheel there is no (common) 19" that im aware of (except trial bike)..
its 20" bicycle bmx..
but remember bicycle wheel measurement refers to the tire outer diameter in general not the rim..
ie 20 24 26 28 27.5 29" 700c etc wheel/tire outer diameter approx. (can vary w fat or thin tires)
motorcycle wheel 16 17 18 19 21" refers to rim diameter not wheel plus tire diameter..
and yes moto tires are generally much fatter than bicycle tires..
Rix
100 TW
LSBW said:
Spoke with dad, I misunderstood him. He said late 90s. Apparently there was a concept idea by Lee Iacocca back in the 60s along with an electric car but it didn't go anywhere. I appologize for the error in my comment.
So the 19" MC wheels with tire would have around the same OD as 26" mtb. In that case would the acceleration/torque really change much? Or would like a 17 or 18" be better? (easier on motor) Sorry, just trying to decide before i get my motor built into wheel.
izeman
1 GW
i can't remember what motor you want to use. but keep in mind that for x-lacing the spokes the rim should be bigger than 20" bike rims if you have a big dd motor like crystalyte, cromotor or similar.carsonwen said:
i went for radial lacing, but dont know what power levels you're thinking of.
Rix
100 TW
carsonwen said:
No the 19MC tire is closer to the 24"MTB. A 17 like the one in my avatar is easier on the motor like you said.
Rick
izeman
1 GW
what's the recommended MC rim width? i found some 2.25" wide. is MC rim width the same as bike rim?
description says: 1,35 x 19" (was 23 x 2,25). maybe someone could advise what this means?!
description says: 1,35 x 19" (was 23 x 2,25). maybe someone could advise what this means?!
Rix
100 TW
izeman said:
Izeman, the rim you asked about 1.35x19 inches is the smallest 19MC rim I have seen to date. I don't know what rim the 2.25x23 would be. Maybe its the specific specs for the rim mounted with a very small 19MC tire that is 23" diameter and 2.25" is the width inflated on the rim. Volt riders is lacing up a 19x1.4 to my front Marzocchi hub so I can run a 2.75x19 SR241 on the Bomber. That Tire OD is about 25.2 inches. So far, I have tried 14 MC tires on two different size MC rims. 17x1.4 and 19x1.4 Prowheel racing rims. Most the 17s tires I have tried have been 70x100/17,2.75x17, 3.00x17, and a 3.5x17 tires. The diameter of these tires vary from 22.7-23.9 inches with weights of 4.8 to 7 pounds with widths ranging from 2.8-3.5 inches wide. The 19s I have tried 70x100/19, 2.5x19, and 2.75x19 tires. Diameter varies from 24.7-25.2 inches. Widths vary from 2.9-3.3 inches wide. I do have a couple of more rims and tire combos I will be trying down the road. Specifically an 18x1.4 wide rim and an 18 x1.85 Tagasko Rim. I am looking for the perfect balance of a big enough tire/wheel combo to roll over rocks, but small enough to be fast and easy on direct drive hubs. The 17s work well, but the 19s smooth things out just a little better in the rough. So I am hoping that the 18 gives me the best of both worlds, and still can be pedaled. What ever rim size you go with, stick with the narrower options if weight is a concern. Zombies is running 2.15x19 rims front and rear with 2.75x19 SR244s on his Cromotor powered Warp frame, he loves his bike and the way it rides. It looks tough as hell too
He could have ran 1.4x19s and the tires wouldn't have spread out as much inflated, the weight difference would have been about 2 pounds lighter with the narrower rims. That's really about it.zombiess
10 MW
My aluminum super moto wheels are very light. The pro wheels have better reviews in mc applications. Take that for what you want. I posted up my bare wheel weights in my build thread.
Careful with the width choices. I believe bike vs mc is measured different. My 2.15" wide wheels look a lot more like 3" fat tire rims. They are freaking huge so make sure you have the clearance before you go too wide. My setup clears my front fork with 5mm on each side. Damn good thing I had volt riders build it. Both were perfect fit. Rear was dished perfect... I sent them pics showing the offset measured with a digital caliper to the flange. My 2.75 shinkos are 3.3" wide mounted on these rims. Looks sick and mean. Already getting compliments and looks while riding.
Careful with the width choices. I believe bike vs mc is measured different. My 2.15" wide wheels look a lot more like 3" fat tire rims. They are freaking huge so make sure you have the clearance before you go too wide. My setup clears my front fork with 5mm on each side. Damn good thing I had volt riders build it. Both were perfect fit. Rear was dished perfect... I sent them pics showing the offset measured with a digital caliper to the flange. My 2.75 shinkos are 3.3" wide mounted on these rims. Looks sick and mean. Already getting compliments and looks while riding.
GCinDC
100 MW
izeman
1 GW
great info guys. maybe i'll just start a new thread instead of high jacking this one. sorry.
this btw is the rim i'm talking about: http://www.ebay.de/itm/150953066648?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
i'm still unsure if 24" bike wheels are not the better solution for the planned mid drive bike - 2.5kw max
weight IS a concern. i don't want one more 45kg/90lbs bike.
this btw is the rim i'm talking about: http://www.ebay.de/itm/150953066648?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
i'm still unsure if 24" bike wheels are not the better solution for the planned mid drive bike - 2.5kw max
weight IS a concern. i don't want one more 45kg/90lbs bike.
Rix
100 TW
The wheel issue is one topic that truly transcends all ebikes, whether home made, frame kit, manufacture build. A Dlogic suggested a while back that I start a thread dedicated to MC and MTB wheels for ebike applications. I told him I didn't thank there was enough interest in it. Show what I know. On a another note, I had a 30 minute conversation today with Gary, (owner of Prowheel Racing rims, tires and wheels). I ordered some spoke from him for my up and coming winter 5405 wheel build. As some of you may recall, I originally contacted him last year for my first MC rim laced to my 5403. Since then, he has done tons of business selling rims to ebike enthusiast all over the globe. Anyway he said before I contacted him last year, he never had a question or an order for one of his rims to lace to a hub motor. Now he is doing orders of over 100 rims per sale. He thinks its because of me. :lol: :wink: 
I assured him that I only referred maybe 25-35 people to ProWheel racing to purchase rims for ebike applications. He said he knows it was me because everyone else is asking the same questions I originally did. We laughed and talked ebikes stuff for a while. It was a good conversation. Gary wants everyone to know that if there is continued demand for MC rims for ebike applications, he can custom punch the spoke holes to line up with hub motors. He said he has to do runs of 50 for tooling settings but said he would. Hmmm? maybe a wheel only thread would be great idea?
I assured him that I only referred maybe 25-35 people to ProWheel racing to purchase rims for ebike applications. He said he knows it was me because everyone else is asking the same questions I originally did. We laughed and talked ebikes stuff for a while. It was a good conversation. Gary wants everyone to know that if there is continued demand for MC rims for ebike applications, he can custom punch the spoke holes to line up with hub motors. He said he has to do runs of 50 for tooling settings but said he would. Hmmm? maybe a wheel only thread would be great idea?
KeepMoving
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My Torque Raptor is built and awesome. The only problem now is that the bike is almost 100 lbs and cannot be put on a regular bike rack. I purchased a dirt bike hitch rack(Rage motorcycle rack) which fits my car great. The problem now is that the front disk brake rotor is getting bent from all of the stress from the front fork being ratcheted down to the secure points on the rack. This is making the disc rotor untrue and keeping the front tire from spinning freely. Has anyone else experienced this problem? What do you guys use to transport your heavy electric bikes? I know how to make the disc rotor true and fix the minor damage. My concern is transporting the bike without damaging the components. Any thoughts?
KeepMoving
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It basically looks like this:
moonshine
1 kW
I have the same setup for my jeep. I used a dirt bike rack and anchored the bike down at the front handlebars and the swingarm. You can see a pic of my setup in this thread. I'm not sure what you're doing that would affect the rotor. All the tie downs do is compress the front shocks (not all the way) to the point where it's really tight. This should have absolutely no effect on your rotor!
KeepMoving
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I built it with a pro builder and we thought the same thing the FIRST time it happened. We straightened out the rotor. Bike rode great. Then strapped back on the car, got home to take it off and the same thing happened again! I know it is from ratcheting down the front suspension, how exactly it is affecting the rotor I dont know, but it gets a major bend in it. My guess is all the tension on the fork must some how push on the brake caliper which bends the rotor. I am not 100% sure of this but with more trial and error will hopefully figure out soon! This sucks bc the car rack was expensive, I also bought a hitch riser 10" to elevate the rack off the ground. Any other thoughts appreciated
Rix
100 TW
Keepmoving,
Take some close up pics of your bike on your hitch hauler on your vehicle. something is adding up here. The only thing I can think of is if your rotor isn't touching when you have the tie downs cinched up, than it must be swaying back and forth when you accelerate and brake as you transport your bike. The bike must be leaning side to side as the wheel is in the hauler chock and the disk is hitting it.
Rick
Take some close up pics of your bike on your hitch hauler on your vehicle. something is adding up here. The only thing I can think of is if your rotor isn't touching when you have the tie downs cinched up, than it must be swaying back and forth when you accelerate and brake as you transport your bike. The bike must be leaning side to side as the wheel is in the hauler chock and the disk is hitting it.
Rick
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