Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

Rix said:
Just measure your peak C rating wattages by whatever the pack is rated for times its capacity
90% right Rix :p
The C rating is as you said but when calculating your peak wattage you need to allow for voltage sag, given wattage is voltage x current.
Take the commonly used 24S lipo pack for example.
It's often referred to as "100v" as it's charges up to 100.8v on a full charge.
Nominal voltage @ 3.7v/cell make the pack actually 88.8v but in normal ebike use these high C rate packs don't usually sag down to that nominal voltage under moderate use - a 25ah pack for example would only be pulling 4C at 100 amps so you'd probably see sag to around say 95v on a full charge - making peak power of 9500w.
When you get to the pointy end of the C rating though the sag is much more significant for most batteries, so when you're pulling that theoritical 750A (25ah pack x 30C) you'd probably be sagging down to around 3.3v/cell. So your voltage when pulling that max current would be down around 79v, making your absolute max power around 59kw. This is still what we refer to in the scientific community as a metric shitload, but it's still a fair bit shy of what many would call a supposed 75kw, or even 66kw based on nominal voltage.

That said unless you have huge motorcycle sized motor and an 800 amp controller (and I've ridden such a beast :twisted: ) this is all fairly irrelevant in relation to raptor builds.
I suspect the most anyone could put through these in short bursts is around 300A, which with a 25AH pack is a fairly reasonable 12C. So you'd probably see peaks of up to 27kw. Not far off what Knighty originally suggested, but he fluked that with completely wrong maths :lol:

Bottom line, when it comes to bragging rights about peak power the easiest and most truthful way to do it is just read off the max wattage from your cycle analyst.
 
Don't forget those packs are rated at 40C burst, however that gets factored in when getting your peak voltage.

This will be ecruz when he first tests his raptor.

[youtube]NCpzXIPXdAQ[/youtube]
 
The wheel is ready!.....suspension already arrived!....almost there!! :D

what are you using to gather all these batteries to the controller, anyone can put some pictures?

Thanks in advance
 

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Hyena said:
Rix said:
Just measure your peak C rating wattages by whatever the pack is rated for times its capacity
90% right Rix :p
The C rating is as you said but when calculating your peak wattage you need to allow for voltage sag, given wattage is voltage x current.
Take the commonly used 24S lipo pack for example.
It's often referred to as "100v" as it's charges up to 100.8v on a full charge.
Nominal voltage @ 3.7v/cell make the pack actually 88.8v but in normal ebike use these high C rate packs don't usually sag down to that nominal voltage under moderate use - a 25ah pack for example would only be pulling 4C at 100 amps so you'd probably see sag to around say 95v on a full charge - making peak power of 9500w.
When you get to the pointy end of the C rating though the sag is much more significant for most batteries, so when you're pulling that theoritical 750A (25ah pack x 30C) you'd probably be sagging down to around 3.3v/cell. So your voltage when pulling that max current would be down around 79v, making your absolute max power around 59kw. This is still what we refer to in the scientific community as a metric shitload, but it's still a fair bit shy of what many would call a supposed 75kw, or even 66kw based on nominal voltage.

That said unless you have huge motorcycle sized motor and an 800 amp controller (and I've ridden such a beast :twisted: ) this is all fairly irrelevant in relation to raptor builds.
I suspect the most anyone could put through these in short bursts is around 300A, which with a 25AH pack is a fairly reasonable 12C. So you'd probably see peaks of up to 27kw. Not far off what Knighty originally suggested, but he fluked that with completely wrong maths :lol:

Bottom line, when it comes to bragging rights about peak power the easiest and most truthful way to do it is just read off the max wattage from your cycle analyst.

Thanks for the assist and clarifying that Jay, being that I am a noob on the power side of the house with Ebikes, I strive for keeping comments as true and accurate as possible. My pops and I have learned a ton of hands on experience with your 2000 Watt Lipo Powered Neutron kit, which, by the way, Pops has laced up to a 24MTB Alex rim and loves it even more than when he had the 26MTB Alex rim on it. Pops said the difference and performance increase prospectively was like when he installed the 280 Big Bore Kit on his 08 KTM XCF 250. Or about the same as dropping his counter shaft sprocket from a 14t to a 13t. Pretty cool my dad at almost 70 years old is ripping it up in the hills on an ebike. As soon as I get my jig built, I am giving my dad my Karpiel frame so he can get to work on converting his steed to a full on Down Hill rig with your Kit.

Efuel, very nice accessories for you up and coming build, cant wait to see it.

Rick
 
E-fuel, when is your frame coming? When did you place your order?

What type of batteries are you using? This somewhat depends on how you connect them to the controller.
 
I have received my frame three weeks ago but I have sent it for painting, I did not like the white color.
I do not know anyone in Europe that builds custom made batteries, I have ordered the Turnigy 5000 6S. On my last build I used bullet connectors welded between them to connect batteries in parallel. I wonder if you are using some piece in particular.
Sorry my English is not very good.
 
E-Fuel said:
I do not know anyone in Europe that builds custom made batteries, I have ordered the Turnigy 5000 6S.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=50015&hilit=+welding#p739301
 
E-Fuel said:
I have received my frame three weeks ago but I have sent it for painting, I did not like the white color.
I do not know anyone in Europe that builds custom made batteries, I have ordered the Turnigy 5000 6S. On my last build I used bullet connectors welded between them to connect batteries in parallel. I wonder if you are using some piece in particular.
Sorry my English is not very good.

for the Turnigy 5000 6s, I use 4mm bullet connectors as that is what is installed on the batteries. Just make 4 separate wire harnesses, for 24S, that connect the batteries in parallel. Then make a separate wire harness that connects the 4 wire harnesses to connect them in a series.

I would keep the battery wire at 16 gauge that connect the batteries in parallel, and 10 gauge (maybe 12) for the series connection.

It really depends how you want to charge your batteries if you bulk charge or want to balance charge them. If you want to balance charge them which is recommended I would connect the parallel packs with these.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27075__JST_XH_Parallel_Balance_Lead_6S_250mm_6xJST_XH_.html
I recommend you keep the packs that are in parallel connected with those 6s connectors because they help to balance out the cells if you have any weak or bad ones.

Efuel, how many 6s batteries do you have and what voltage do you want to run them at?
 
E-Fuel said:
I have received my frame three weeks ago but I have sent it for painting, I did not like the white color.
I do not know anyone in Europe that builds custom made batteries, I have ordered the Turnigy 5000 6S. On my last build I used bullet connectors welded between them to connect batteries in parallel. I wonder if you are using some piece in particular.
Sorry my English is not very good.


E fuel, don't worry about your English. Your English is well and we can understand you perfectly. So what S rating on you going to run with the 6S cells? I am guessing 18s to 30S. In Europe, PM/contact Dlogic for battery advise. He is one of the greats with ebike set ups. Really a well respected guy and wont steer you wrong.

Rick
 
Thank you guys!
I will run at 24S 16P.
I have a e-bike with a crystalyte 4080 that runs 18s 6P and I charge them with bulk charger from BMS and each three months I do a balance charge one by one.
So far so good, all the cells are still in good conditions.
I have already changed my order with Hobbyking twice, it seems they don't have batteries in stock in the EU warehouse. This order of 5000Ah batteries I still haven't received confirmation of it.
I would like to have 90V 20Ah batterie that fits on torque frame.
This is what I did to connect the batteries in parallel in my previous built
 
E-Fuel, when you say 16P do you mean 16 packs or 16 parallel?
16P would mean you would have 64 packs of 6s 5000MAH, which I doubt.

Hobby King sells out of Lipo really fast when they get them in stock in USA. You have to stock up on them when they do have them.
 
I can't wait to see someone's torque raptor in action, u guys hurry up with your builds lol :p
 
QuestionMan said:
Don't forget those packs are rated at 40C burst, however that gets factored in when getting your peak voltage.

This will be ecruz when he first tests his raptor.

JAJAJA, I love the shoe falling off!!! Geez nobody thought to test this first with the wheel lifted from the ground?
 
E-Fuel said:
This is what I did to connect the batteries in parallel in my previous built

A better way would be to wrap the tinned ends with some thin gauge copper wire, then solder it up.

With a high current i'm not sure if I would trust what you have done to be honest.
 
I cannot wait until i get mine,

Thinking cro motor, 24s, 4p ( 20ah) / (30ah) see how much i can fit on their,
Im actually going to use 20 inch rims, moto tyres, and moto shocks on the front.

going to an insane amount of lumens on this thing, enough to light up an entire forest, maybe 300wh for just the lights.. going to be used for serious off road riding.
 
nechaus said:
I cannot wait until i get mine,

Thinking cro motor, 24s, 4p ( 20ah) / (30ah) see how much i can fit on their,
Im actually going to use 20 inch rims, moto tyres, and moto shocks on the front.

going to an insane amount of lumens on this thing, enough to light up an entire forest, maybe 300wh for just the lights.. going to be used for serious off road riding.

Have you placed your order yet?

What kind of moto shocks are you using? Are you going to use a moto front fork, wIll it fit and is it better than a downhill fork, what about rear shock?

I'm getting components for my build now and for an off-road ebike this bike looks to be the best option out there right now, especially if you use the motorcycle seat. Why use a bike seat if you're not going to pedal much. If bike seats were superior they would be on dirt bikes. They are only good if you pedal and since I don't pedal, goodbye bike seat.
 
Torque bikes posted on facebook some shock guidelines. Below is copied directly from their facebook page.


A TIP on which rear shock to use with your TORQUE FRAME:

1. For serious off-road riding we would recommend 267x89mm (10,5x3,5'') rear shock, mounted on the top bracket hole (wheel travel 260mm, BB height 360 mm, seat height 910 mm).

2. Second option for off-road is to use 240x76mm (9,5x3'') shock (wheel travel 230mm, BB height 330 mm, seat height 880 mm)) - this one should be mounted on the middle hole.

3. The lowest hole is suitable for 216x63.5mm or 222x70mm shock - this one is suitable mainly for city and macadam cruises (wheel travel 190mm, BB height 290 mm, seat height 840 mm).

Here (pct) are some guidelines on which spring stiffness to use:

1382041_348898418579041_1978987692_n.png
 
QuestionMan said:
nechaus said:
Why use a bike seat if you're not going to pedal much. If bike seats were superior they would be on dirt bikes. They are only good if you pedal and since I don't pedal, goodbye bike seat.
So the cops don't pull you over on the street for an illegal bike. Other than that you are correct if you are not going to pedal then no point. I personally want to get some exercise too on the way to work. Not get pulled over and when I want to take it out just offroading not that Miami is great for this, I can put on the motorcycle seat which I also have.
 
Great pics moonshine. I am now debating to get me a Kelly as well, or just wait it out for a 96V Sabvoton when available.
 
Nice Moonshine, I see you got the V1 Cro on your steed. Also awesome. is the inside of the disc rotor clearing your phase and sensor wires as it spins? From the one close up, it doesn't look like it is completely.

Rick
 
Moonshine, it really does look great! I've posted your latest pics on our FB.

Btw, guys, I wanted to let you know that we've met up with Zelena vozila team in Zagreb, Croatia (only 150km from Torque HQ). I've seen their Cromotor (dismantled and completed) in person and I can say It's really well made. We've talked about what you ebikers might also need and what we had to give. The idea is, that you could now order a Cromotor (with/without their controller) to go with your Torque frame in one order. What do you think?

What else would you like to have in a "kit" that you don't want to have to think about and search for yourself? All of your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Have a nice Saturday,
Ziva
 
nice to see Torque and Greyborg working together for the e-community! much appreciated :)
 
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