Show Us Your Homemade Battery Housing

My Fuji ebike housing. Fabricated in fiberglass.
 

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bart_dood said:
My Fuji ebike housing. Fabricated in fiberglass.
Very nice I like the housings that dont look like somthing is added to a place on the bike where it doesnt belong.
 
After testing the batteries a couple weeks with no issues and dependable service, it became time to commit to the program. I was having fun with double battery options, switching from A123's to SLA's at will. But the desire to enjoy the lightweight and high power full time is here. Only took me 4 hours to fab, install, and finish the chrome ammo boxes!

Behold "The Rapture" in its final hubmotor format.
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Yes, those are much smaller than the other ones I had. And with the loss of all that 72v18Ah SLA weight .... she handles very very nicely! Still need to upgrade brakes to major hydraulic, way to fast for single mechanical. And next major change ...... RC Outrunner. The journey continues... SS
 
silversurfer,

Please provide info and pics on how the boxes are attached to the chain stays.

Thanks,
ebent
 
ebent said:
silversurfer,

Please provide info and pics on how the boxes are attached to the chain stays.

Thanks,
ebent


Looking through the spokes on the lower chainstay you see a black rubber padded "P" clamp.
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I have 4 of these on each, one on each corner, I have huge sheet metal washers to spread out the pressure and help alieviate the tendency to crack or peel under the weight of the SLA's I was using. Dont think thats an issue any more, but on a strong point, rode with three 18ah sla's in each bag for six months with no issues. Oh! I DID increase the hole size in the clamps to 1/4", a larger bolt will have more strength and less tendency to peel up the side of the boxes under the weight.

So thats it, just some simple padded clamps, only slightly modified. SS
 
SilverSurfer said:
And next major change ...... RC Outrunner. The journey continues... SS

Nice finish to the bike SS... look forward to seeing it with a rc outrunner setup.. :)

KiM
 
Hi
just thought I'd re-post one of my old bikes, now much improved.
 

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Just finished the lipo batt box for my Matt RC build in progress. The 1/2"(12.7mm) X3 1/2"(89mm) oakboard was cut to fit and liquid nail glued into the frame with a hose clamp supporting on the seat tube. Sprayed 1 coat primer so the wood grain shows thru some (not foto apparent) looks nice with gold Schwinn trim paint. The material is 1/8" sorta tough rubbery conveyor belt material. Made precise clean cuts, then hot glued inside, liquid nail outside. The board is 3.5"(88mm) and the box is 4.25"(108mm) and glued additional 5/16"(8mm) strips along the bottom R & L edges to help the box to remain in place. There's heavy duty plastic ties in a cross+ inside to reinforce its' rectangular shape. 2" wide nylon strapping (Walmart auto dept) with 2'X4" industrial velcro, found in general hardware stores; white used on the box, black on the straps. A small drop of SuperGlueGel was added to the velcro adhesive which blend together (just rubbed w/ finger). That keeps the velcro adhesive from going goey in hot weather (I hope).
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This batt box holds 8 5000mA lipos (20Ahr @ 12S). My other box will hold 10 6000mA (30Ahr @ 12S) lipos and will extend behind the seat tube. Will post pic in April.

Looks like I'm committed to mounting the motor/drive underneath the BB now :twisted:
 
Polycarbonate box I made at work the other day off the clock :(
 

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A small 20 ga steel box on my Rincon and the one I am working on for my FSR. Going to put one on each side.
 

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Needs paint bad but it contains 24 headway cells with controller, relays, celllogs and charge ports
 

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Here is my BMC build that was finished last year. It's been everything I had hoped for. It was designed just for trail riding.

It needed to be silent, stealthy and reliable.
600w BMC V2T with V3 clutch and gears
10S 8P konions at 40volts, current limited to 35amps on a clyte 72v analog controller. 24ahrs total with rear pack.
Custom battery mounts and dual custom torque arms. Cylcle analyst for battery monitor and lvc.
Top speed 21mph on flats, all 27 gears are usable and I'm able to provide useful pedal power on all gears.
Yes I like to pedal and it gets me out of the woods when I run out of power!
Max trail distance so far has been 33 miles. Going to try to break that record this year.
Decent shocks, trigger shifting and hydraulic brakes makes it fun to ride.

Added was a custom support bracket not in picture. This was needed to keep the topeak rack from breaking. I broke 2 of them before this.
Another new addition this year will be Burties timing board. This should increase my torque, speed and efficiency. Will know more once it's installed.

Last fall I was in great shape, since all I wanted to do all summer was to ride the trails. Spring is finally here and I can't wait to ride again. Bike has taken many crashes and has held up well.

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Kfong,

That is one beautiful bike build. I particularly like the custom molded case!

Ambrose
 
Wow, Kfong; you have a mold :D How much to make more of these? How much Lipo could you pack in one of those :mrgreen:
 
Not sure on the amount of lipos you can store, but as you can see there is a lot of konions in that triangle. I've been avoiding lipos since they still need to be attended to when charging. The konions are a bit more rugged and can take the harsh pounding of trail riding, they are also less of a fire hazard. I calculated the weight gain and it ended up being only a couple pounds heavier for the same density. I would however be able to add more lipo capacity in that space. When these fail on me, I will see what new batts to use then. The bike is fairly well balanced, even with the rear battery pack.

My new 3010B caught fire a couple days ago, back to using the 1010B to charge. Bummed that it happed, going to have to send it back. Don't know if I would trust this charger on lipos.

Yes, I do have the mold to make more. It's labor intensive, so I won't be producing them, just not worth my time. It actually is just a protective shell, the actual battery mount is a custom CNC bracket, I can actually pull out the batteries. They are secured by 6 socket screws, and sit onto a custom cradle. Very secure, no movement even during a crash, which I have had many.
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I have a 12S4p LIPO pack, consisting of two 6S subpacks serially connected together. So I have four batteries in each box, with the wiring running between the two. Boxes are built out of stainless steel, with AL covers painted black. The boxes also contain my circuit breaker and 48-->12V converter. Heavy, but does the job. I leave the batteries connected and just pull the trike into the garage when I want to charge it. Charging is done with Gary's 12S one plug solution and a 1420I Hyperion.

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the battery box can hold 10 6S 5ah packs with more room to spare.

its been designed to hold 2 parallel packs in the front and one pack in the back with the narrow section allowing no interference with pedaling.
Its made out of some policarbonate machine covers we have left over at work.
 
I've just finished a crude but effective battery housing, made from planed timber and plywood.
There are four Bosch Fatpacks in there at the moment, with space for another two, and the controller is in the rear bag. A bit of paint and it'll be good to go.
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This is pretty cheap and simple battery mount. Took about 6 hours planning and building. It is made of alumimum sheet with bolts and what not to hold it together. It is mounted on the 2 water bottle holder.

Battery mount without battery
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battery on bike
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full bike view
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Just wanted to get my 20amps of Ping as low as possible on my home made bent.
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Makes a big difference.
The lids have a lip only on the sides so there's air flow front to back under the lid.
Cut off finishing nails on the lid fit into matching holes on the case and held on with tie down straps.
 
Here's mine, 18s 3p of 5ah lipo, a pair of meanwells, and an 18-fet all fit in here with room to spare to add another 3p to get 24s :twisted: . Waterproof, ventilated, vibration isolated and two-bolt removal.

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