So I bought a lathe...and made Hub Motors
- Thread starter LEVer
- Start date
Good Job!
You were great inspiration to me.
Did you already tested the 1 wheel version? Ever thinked about diagonal Hub motors?
I'm still not sure if I will go dual diag, dual rear or front (live in the Alps have many steep hills).
But I'll look first if I get running at least one motor
haha
You were great inspiration to me.
Did you already tested the 1 wheel version? Ever thinked about diagonal Hub motors?
I'm still not sure if I will go dual diag, dual rear or front (live in the Alps have many steep hills).
But I'll look first if I get running at least one motor
hahaNordel said:Good Job!
You were great inspiration to me.
Did you already tested the 1 wheel version? Ever thinked about diagonal Hub motors?
I'm still not sure if I will go dual diag, dual rear or front (live in the Alps have many steep hills).
But I'll look first if I get running at least one motor
Thanks!
Yes. You need good speed before going, at least 3 - 5 kicks. Else, they will cog. After that, it pulls strong. Pretty sure it will go over 20mph. I've ridden so many setups that I can tell already. Did it on both 6s with Xerun and Fvt ESCs. Waiting for 8s Mamba XL2. I think I'd eventually end up with VESC, but just wanted to test other ESCs, so I can recommend something for customers that don't know or don't want to fiddle with VESC.
For the life of me, I just can't see myself going diagonal, especially now that I'm not worrying if I have enough space for two motors side-by-side. :?
If it's hills, put them in front. You'll feel like you're going up on a fast escalator. :wink:
torqueboards
1 MW
Yeah, if the motors are sensored they can start from a stop and/or you have something like the VESC which uses back EMF to locate the position.
Fortunately I'm willing to play a bit with the VESCPediglide said:
And going dual when I have a bit more money, so cogging shouldn't be really an issue.Why no diag? Shouldn't that give the best advantages of both (front+rear)?Pediglide said:
Best would be a button on my remote to switch direction, so we could switch from front to rear drive without touching the board. Only do some 180shove-it with the ~10kg board
DAnd maybe a second button for 6km/h max speed, to avoid police gays
0,02$
CSN said:
I actually have not watched it start with both rider's feet firmly on the board already. Always saw it with a gentle kick before going.
Nordel said:
I think it would. I just never liked 1WD, that's probably why I'm not keen on diagonals. But hey, "ride what you like" right?
Went riding yesterday with the Gang at the riverbed and some dirt spots. I was testing the prototype that "I manually machined." Because of my crappy tapping skills, I made one threaded hole bigger and lost a bolt because of that.
The good thing is, despite just having two bolts, no epoxy, ungodly debris on the riverbed and rocky dirt roads, the wheel did not come off. So I'm very confident that V2 design does not need any epoxy.
The V2 that will be sent out will have the "CNC'd motor's endcaps and waterjetted hubcaps" for precision and sharp alignment. I'm also thinking of anodizing the hubcaps black to match the hub colors of the front wheels.
The good thing is, despite just having two bolts, no epoxy, ungodly debris on the riverbed and rocky dirt roads, the wheel did not come off. So I'm very confident that V2 design does not need any epoxy.
The V2 that will be sent out will have the "CNC'd motor's endcaps and waterjetted hubcaps" for precision and sharp alignment. I'm also thinking of anodizing the hubcaps black to match the hub colors of the front wheels.
torqueboards
1 MW
Haha sweet! The black anodize cap will be a nice touch.
Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
Good thing u got that lathe. U got the harbor freight one I think.
The monolith isn't sensored I do t think.
All the brushless ESC use back emf
The monolith isn't sensored I do t think.
All the brushless ESC use back emf
torqueboards
1 MW
Are you positive? I would imagine at that scale you might as well go sensored..
Hummina Shadeeba
10 MW
I think not but ur getting it I think and hope u can tell us how it goes. Planetary gear is super cool Maybe it was sensored. Can't find the video now. It didn't have screeching brakes. What ESC or programing could get silence or close to that? How's the vesc braking noise..I didn't hear any I remember.torqueboards said:
I've been told that I can pick up the hub caps tomorrow. I hope so, so I can give you guys these:
So as you can see in the second photo, I shortened the aluminum tube. This makes the hubs lighter and the ride softer because now there is more 'thane than 'tal...see what I did there? :lol:
So as you can see in the second photo, I shortened the aluminum tube. This makes the hubs lighter and the ride softer because now there is more 'thane than 'tal...see what I did there? :lol:
torqueboards
1 MW
Awesome!!!!! Can't wait 
4WD Hub Motor!!!
4WD Hub Motor!!!
Well what do you know, Inboard has now bolts that hold down the wheel to the hub motor.
Instead of just a cir-clip.
Those motors look fatter than mine. Im not sure about the more 'tal than 'thane approach though. I also do not like that the axle nut is protruding more than the wheel. It can easily be side-scraped and compromise the axle.
I'm also making my hub caps in smaller diameter than the one pictured above to not have the harsh feel when when the outer wall of the wheels compress during carving.
Instead of just a cir-clip.
Those motors look fatter than mine. Im not sure about the more 'tal than 'thane approach though. I also do not like that the axle nut is protruding more than the wheel. It can easily be side-scraped and compromise the axle.
I'm also making my hub caps in smaller diameter than the one pictured above to not have the harsh feel when when the outer wall of the wheels compress during carving.
CSN
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2015
- Messages
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Pediglide those are looking better and better.
Once they are sensor'd I am really psyched.
The Inboard urethane looks so thin. Is there any benefit of having wider wheels for E Boards?
How would you predict the current Inboard wheels would handle and absorb road debris and bumps?
Once they are sensor'd I am really psyched.
The Inboard urethane looks so thin. Is there any benefit of having wider wheels for E Boards?
How would you predict the current Inboard wheels would handle and absorb road debris and bumps?
torqueboards
1 MW
Inboard, Stary, Mellow all hub motors but thane is really really really really thin.
To be honest, after riding 90mm wheels.. You don't really want to go back to 83mm wheels.
You literally float a lot more and smaller minor cracks, you don't even feel anymore.
To be honest, after riding 90mm wheels.. You don't really want to go back to 83mm wheels.
You literally float a lot more and smaller minor cracks, you don't even feel anymore.
Thanks CSN.
Wider wheels make the board less likely to tip over when doing hard turns.The bad thing with really wide wheels is the big contact patch which zaps a lot from the battery's life.
I really don't know how the Inboard's wheel would feel as I have not ridden them, they may have super-secret composition in it. But my V2's feels so much better than the V1's because of the absence of the flange, which you can sometimes feel on hard carves and going over big expansion/control joints.
Wider wheels make the board less likely to tip over when doing hard turns.The bad thing with really wide wheels is the big contact patch which zaps a lot from the battery's life.
I really don't know how the Inboard's wheel would feel as I have not ridden them, they may have super-secret composition in it. But my V2's feels so much better than the V1's because of the absence of the flange, which you can sometimes feel on hard carves and going over big expansion/control joints.
torqueboards said:
Once you start using your board for commuting purposes instead of just joyriding with it in select spots, you really appreciate the advantage of bigger wheels.
Not only do they feel good, but your field of vision increases because of the extra height. This can really help when you are in a high-traffic area and can see things farther ahead.
Just in case somebody plans to use VESCs on the hub motor setup:
- you need to adjust "Startup Boost" in the BLDC-Tool (Tab "advanced") to a higher level. Don't increase it over 0.15 though!
- from a battery perspective using VESCs with a 10s setup fits best, because of RPM getting closer to the 6000 suggested by Benjamin Vedder, but it works in my 7s setup quite well too.
rmrf said:
Thanks!
You can buy replacement wheels from me, or you can bore them out yourself if you have a lathe. Just measure the hub wheels you have.
Hmm, I have not replaced any wheels actually although I really do not ride 10 miles every day. I would say depending on your roads and the way you accelerate, you can use the hub wheels for at least 3 months, maybe more.
These ABEC11 Flywheel clones are harder than the original ABECs and they do hold up to the road's beating. Of course the trade off is that they ride harder than the originals, but not really uncomfortable at all at 90mm.
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