skyungjae
10 kW
Looks fantastic. I should have totally got the chainring set too.
Strong freewheeling crankset
- Thread starter full-throttle
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Tinto
100 W
NOICE.
I'm quietly surprised it all lines up - was expecting to have to Frankenstein some stuff as spacers etc.
Really looking forward to getting the cyclone kit now.
Shame I didn't have it in time for Easter.
I'm quietly surprised it all lines up - was expecting to have to Frankenstein some stuff as spacers etc.
Really looking forward to getting the cyclone kit now.
Shame I didn't have it in time for Easter.
Tinto
100 W
Got my cyclone kit earlier in the week and put it through 17km worth of commuting today.
Worked flawlessly on my GNG kit and the two large 44T rings allow me to contribute a bit more.
Everything certainly looked more solid than the GNG kit, with more precise threads and it rotates very smoothly (and true) but time will tell.
Worked flawlessly on my GNG kit and the two large 44T rings allow me to contribute a bit more.
Everything certainly looked more solid than the GNG kit, with more precise threads and it rotates very smoothly (and true) but time will tell.
skyungjae
10 kW
http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_freewheel_and_sprocket_removal/m1.html
Here's a good video on how to remove the freewheel from the crank for those who are having problems. I prefer an impact gun. :wink:
Here's a good video on how to remove the freewheel from the crank for those who are having problems. I prefer an impact gun. :wink:
christerljung
100 W
Is there a support bearing in the Cyclone ISIS-crankset? Or is it just the freewheel that takes the force at no pedaling?
speedmd
10 MW
Just picked one of these up. http://compare.ebay.com/like/200722039580?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
Should be a good strong bb compared to stock setup. Trying the Stock arms with acs flange freewheel. Should have enough room to add a nice support bearing.
Should be a good strong bb compared to stock setup. Trying the Stock arms with acs flange freewheel. Should have enough room to add a nice support bearing.
dustyearlobe
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2012
- Messages
- 250
i don't suppose these have the same clearance at the pedals as the 153mm sqaure shaft cyclone bbskyungjae said:
Cyclone 140mm ISIS BB and Cranks were $98 shipped to the US.
I'll try and fit everything this weekend.
would solve a problem im having with flex in the bb shaft
I got about 20mm I could lose but realy not sure about buying one incase it ends up to small
skyungjae
10 kW
dustyearlobe said:
Clearance of the cranks around the motor shouldn't be an issue. You could email Paco from Cyclone, order just the cranks and BB like I did, pop out the support bearing from the GNG chainring and slap that all together. You may run into slight misalignment with the chainline, but there are various ways to adjust the chainline from the 12T jackshaft to the 44T chainring.
Tinto and t0me purchased the entire BB, freewheeling cranks, and chainring set up from Cyclone, and it seems to have lined up fine for them. There's also the additional front chain ring up front which some may find beneficial especially if you want to segregate a torque oriented climbing mode from a high speed mode. If I wasn't running a single chainring already prior to the GNG, I would have done the same as these fellows.
Edit (Added Photos):
Non-drive side clearance (Belt Side) The shadow from the flash makes it seem like it's touching, but it does clear the bolt on the motor by almost a centimeter.
Drive side clearance
friendly1uk
1 MW
I did not know free wheeling bottom brackets existed.
Could I chop out the 68x40mm tube from my frame, and weld in one perhaps 68x150mm. Then fit a motor in the 150mm opening. Typical fixed stator with central rotor, not an external rotor motor. Till now my problem was the pedals spinning round if there straight to the motor shaft, chopping my legs off. I had thought I could have the motor shaft enlarged to say 30mm pipe, with the crank through the middle and design a free wheel. Is that what we are talking about here? A free wheel for pedals, that could bolt in to the shaft of my geared hub motor?
It's just a casual interest, but I do have access to the blokes that wrote and designed Master. The gearbox design software used by big car brands. I'm going to take my bike in when it's done, as some are cyclists. See if we can get a variable ratio gearbox. I have some plans forming already.
Could I chop out the 68x40mm tube from my frame, and weld in one perhaps 68x150mm. Then fit a motor in the 150mm opening. Typical fixed stator with central rotor, not an external rotor motor. Till now my problem was the pedals spinning round if there straight to the motor shaft, chopping my legs off. I had thought I could have the motor shaft enlarged to say 30mm pipe, with the crank through the middle and design a free wheel. Is that what we are talking about here? A free wheel for pedals, that could bolt in to the shaft of my geared hub motor?
It's just a casual interest, but I do have access to the blokes that wrote and designed Master. The gearbox design software used by big car brands. I'm going to take my bike in when it's done, as some are cyclists. See if we can get a variable ratio gearbox. I have some plans forming already.
skyungjae
10 kW
friendly1uk said:
I don't think a freewheeling bottom bracket exists yet. What we're working with here are crank arms that allow freewheels to be attached to them. That being said, you'd still have the "chopping my legs off" problem.
dustyearlobe
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2012
- Messages
- 250
thanks miles I think it should work im running cyclone motors just not sure of the overall clearance
dustyearlobe
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2012
- Messages
- 250
not sure what you mean as far as I can make out they use the same bb shell which is great
dustyearlobe
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2012
- Messages
- 250
yep one of them days ,thinking it clearly but saying it backwards 
my frame is 150mm wide so yes crank arm ends clearance is my main concern ,the frame tapers in to bb shell so 140mm at this point is not an issue
I have even less room to play on current build
my frame is 150mm wide so yes crank arm ends clearance is my main concern ,the frame tapers in to bb shell so 140mm at this point is not an issue
I have even less room to play on current build
friendly1uk
1 MW
skyungjae
10 kW
Crap in a hat. What's wrong with me. I ordered a 48/44/32T chainring minus freewheel from Cyclone. (-_-!)
skyungjae
10 kW
t0me said:
I've actually had no issues with my belt and tensioners on either side. Given I've only put about 250 miles on them in the past three months or so (I'd check the actual numbers, but I don't have my Stink-E with me right now). First belt still going strong!
My only worry is that that, before I had my e*thirteen chain guide, the actual bicycle chain would either fall between the chainrings or between the inside chainring constantly. Pretty much if I hit a rough patch, went down stairs, or took any sort of jump bigger than a curb. I'm hoping the front derailleur works as well keeping my chain from deciding it's too good for my chainring. :lol: Since I've had the e*thirteen chain guide, the chain just stays on the chainring no matter what I can throw at it.
Well, hopefully everything gets here in a timely manner. I'll run it through the numbers and see how it goes.
skyungjae
10 kW
t0me said:
I didn't get the chainring set at first since my e*thirteen setup was working so well. Did you have to re-arrange the bolts and washers before or after Lightning's sheets?
I had the chainring before I got LightningRods plates, when I went to fit them, found the bolts interfered. Also, I have a more downhill type frame, and again some interpretation and mods are required to get the plates (bottom set anyway) to work with that kind of frame. I expect Michael will be adapting the instructions to suit, and might be producing a bottom set specificially for DH type frames.
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