cjh
100 W
The bike has a standard 68mm BSA/ISO/English BB so what is the best PAS solution? This one? https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/504-pas-pulse-padel-assistant-sensor-with-12-pcs-magnets-parts.html
The new Qute Q100H motor
- Thread starter Jostling
- Start date
This one will be easier to fit if you have a cartridge type BB. It fits into the spline like the BB tool, but some BBs have slightly different splines, so it doesn't always fit. Best to get both types as they don't cost much. You cab always sell the spare on Ebay, and probably make a profit.
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/705-dual-hall-sensor-12-signals-easy-assembling-pas-ebike-kit.html
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/705-dual-hall-sensor-12-signals-easy-assembling-pas-ebike-kit.html
motomech
10 MW
OK, I have replaced my MXUS geared/Infineon 20A on my GT Idrive w/the Q100H(260 wind)/ELB 9-FET 17A(linked below).
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2014-3K-SAUG.5TSEX
Both on 12S(46V).
Note: Over the years, I have gone minimalist, no displays/meters, so no hard data, but having used a number of geared mini's, the seat of my pants is fairly well calibrated.
Off the line-It's the Cute all the way, it has a surprizing amount of "snap", even with the softer controller. The 12 to 1 compound gearing has the motor spinning faster than the MXUS's 5 to 1 ratio and helps the Q100 be more responsive at low road speeds.
Top speed-The MXUS is a mile or two faster on the same Voltage.
Hills-There are not many hills here, but at cruising speeds(20 mph), slight inclines slow the MXUS very little, while the Cute is noticeably effected. On steeper hills, I am pretty sure the 2.3 Kg MXUS would "dig down" deeper than the, less than 2.0 Kg. Cute.
Noise-No comparison. Even when the MXUS's Halls were working, it was never as quiet as the Q100's. I have used the Q100 w/ sine wave controllers, and that combo. is dead quiet. But the ELB controller, even being a square wave, is very good in this regard. Just a very faint whine.
Durability-Time will tell, but the MXUS has been a rock(aside from the Hall failure), it has done at least 5000 miles and I have never had to open it up.
Overall, I'm very impressed with the Q100H and think the "H" mated to the ELB 9-FET is the best single mini system I have used to date. It is deffinately more powerful than the standard Cutes, but I am not sure that it has the advertized "30% more torque". But maybe 20% more.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2014-3K-SAUG.5TSEX
Both on 12S(46V).
Note: Over the years, I have gone minimalist, no displays/meters, so no hard data, but having used a number of geared mini's, the seat of my pants is fairly well calibrated.
Off the line-It's the Cute all the way, it has a surprizing amount of "snap", even with the softer controller. The 12 to 1 compound gearing has the motor spinning faster than the MXUS's 5 to 1 ratio and helps the Q100 be more responsive at low road speeds.
Top speed-The MXUS is a mile or two faster on the same Voltage.
Hills-There are not many hills here, but at cruising speeds(20 mph), slight inclines slow the MXUS very little, while the Cute is noticeably effected. On steeper hills, I am pretty sure the 2.3 Kg MXUS would "dig down" deeper than the, less than 2.0 Kg. Cute.
Noise-No comparison. Even when the MXUS's Halls were working, it was never as quiet as the Q100's. I have used the Q100 w/ sine wave controllers, and that combo. is dead quiet. But the ELB controller, even being a square wave, is very good in this regard. Just a very faint whine.
Durability-Time will tell, but the MXUS has been a rock(aside from the Hall failure), it has done at least 5000 miles and I have never had to open it up.
Overall, I'm very impressed with the Q100H and think the "H" mated to the ELB 9-FET is the best single mini system I have used to date. It is deffinately more powerful than the standard Cutes, but I am not sure that it has the advertized "30% more torque". But maybe 20% more.
cjh mentioned that the Q100H has a internal speed sensor now.
Is it a good choice to use the integrated sine wave controller of the 09 bottle battery from BMSB?
Or can someone explain why I should bother installing an external controller?
Btw I don't use a CA.
Is it a good choice to use the integrated sine wave controller of the 09 bottle battery from BMSB?
Or can someone explain why I should bother installing an external controller?
Btw I don't use a CA.
ScooterMan101
1 MW
Motomech ... is the rear , cassette hub motor from greenbikekit the same as the Q100c cst, rear cassette hub motor from BMS battery ? ( http://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-bike-kit-1/rear/100cst-cassette-freewheel-e-bike-kit-36v-250w.html )
Is one company better to order from than the other ?
I want a small , light weight rear hub motor , that accepts a 10 speed cassette, for my build. color is not important, what is important is that it will go up to 400-500 watts with the right controller.
So far I am looking at the Q100c cst hub from BMS battery , or the 100 cst hub motor from greenbike kit, unless you have had good experience from a QQ Cassette rear hub motor from E Life Bike ( edit : it looks like the 250w M140-R CST rear hub motor from E life bike is only available in a 328 rpm , so looks like it is out )
Where did you get a 9 mosfet controller ? , I want to go with the 9 fet controller as well,
I found 2 on e life bike, 350 watt 36/48volt and a 500 watt 36/48 volt one.
Would the little rear hub motor work with either of those ? ( I seem to need apx 450 watts to 550 watts , on my current 55.5 pound ( 25.2 Kg ) mountain bike conversion to go up hills comfortably, although the road bike conversion will be lighter by 17-19 pounds )
quote="motomech"]
I think that you will like the finished product. In fact, if I were not so invested in Lipo, your order list is exactly what I would order for a new build.
I have used/or have on order, all the items you have listed.
I ordered everything from BMS Battery(except controller) because I wanted the motor in black, but your motor kit is the "higher powered" Cute, which Elifebike tags as a "F" and BMS B. gives a suffix of "H".
I am not sure why D8veh as experienced over-heating with Q100 motors. Sunder, Fellow, Crossbreak, Mtl34 and I have used various Cute motors at Voltages up to 14S(58V?) and Amps in the 20's and none of us have had the Cute even get particularly warm.
But most of us have had over-heating with the tiny 6-FET controllers, especially if they are in a bag.
That is one of the reasons I like the 9-FET from ELB. It is larger and has lot's of air-space inside the case.
I am using one now on a "328" Cute(in a 24" whl.), and it is inside a bag, and although it gets warm, it is holding up fine.
It is a very smooth and quiet unit and I think even the 500W(19A) version would be safe on most Q100 applications(I have one here to try). BTW, they are available on Ebay, if you ever need to order one.
The cruise engages very quickly, almost too quick, after just a couple of seconds of holding the button down. I have not used the PAS with that controller, so I am curious as to what your experience will be with it. Speaking of PAS, did you order the "new style" crank sensor?
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/705-dual-hall-sensor-12-signals-easy-assembling-pas-ebike-kit.html
I think this is the one to use, as I have found the older style to be finicky to get to work.
I don't think you will need to solder anything(depends on Battery connector). I have replaced all of the kit connectors in the past when I wanted to shorten the cables/wires. You will have lot's of extra lenght w/ the frt. whl. kit and if you can, try and put the extra "loops" in a bag for a clean install. The one set of connectors I would recommend replacing or eliminating are the crimp-on bullets on the three phase wires. I use 3.5 mm bullets from Hobbyking, but one can just solder the wires directly. Make sure all the little pins are pushed in all the way in with the Hall, nylon connector.
As for hills, just make sure that you don't let the speed get too low, under, maybe, 10 mph. If you can get a good run up, it would take pretty long hill to get you slowed down that much, so you should be fine.
As for range, I usually get 1 1/2 miles per battery Ah, so your daily commute should not be a problem.
Let us know how it turns out.
EDIT: I see you have ordered the controller case. I have tried those(although, not with that controller)and have never been happy with the way they go together. If you feel like you might want to try something else, a good solution are sm. inexspensive "over the rail" frame bags, like these(half way down;
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63940&p=1003770&hilit=scott#p1003770
There is room in the side pocket to stash extra wire. Mine is counterbalanced with a Lipo batt. You could put in a tool kit or whatever.[/quote]
Is one company better to order from than the other ?
I want a small , light weight rear hub motor , that accepts a 10 speed cassette, for my build. color is not important, what is important is that it will go up to 400-500 watts with the right controller.
So far I am looking at the Q100c cst hub from BMS battery , or the 100 cst hub motor from greenbike kit, unless you have had good experience from a QQ Cassette rear hub motor from E Life Bike ( edit : it looks like the 250w M140-R CST rear hub motor from E life bike is only available in a 328 rpm , so looks like it is out )
Where did you get a 9 mosfet controller ? , I want to go with the 9 fet controller as well,
I found 2 on e life bike, 350 watt 36/48volt and a 500 watt 36/48 volt one.
Would the little rear hub motor work with either of those ? ( I seem to need apx 450 watts to 550 watts , on my current 55.5 pound ( 25.2 Kg ) mountain bike conversion to go up hills comfortably, although the road bike conversion will be lighter by 17-19 pounds )
quote="motomech"]
It sounds like you may have read some of my posts.chridder said:
I think that you will like the finished product. In fact, if I were not so invested in Lipo, your order list is exactly what I would order for a new build.
I have used/or have on order, all the items you have listed.
I ordered everything from BMS Battery(except controller) because I wanted the motor in black, but your motor kit is the "higher powered" Cute, which Elifebike tags as a "F" and BMS B. gives a suffix of "H".
I am not sure why D8veh as experienced over-heating with Q100 motors. Sunder, Fellow, Crossbreak, Mtl34 and I have used various Cute motors at Voltages up to 14S(58V?) and Amps in the 20's and none of us have had the Cute even get particularly warm.
But most of us have had over-heating with the tiny 6-FET controllers, especially if they are in a bag.
That is one of the reasons I like the 9-FET from ELB. It is larger and has lot's of air-space inside the case.
I am using one now on a "328" Cute(in a 24" whl.), and it is inside a bag, and although it gets warm, it is holding up fine.
It is a very smooth and quiet unit and I think even the 500W(19A) version would be safe on most Q100 applications(I have one here to try). BTW, they are available on Ebay, if you ever need to order one.
The cruise engages very quickly, almost too quick, after just a couple of seconds of holding the button down. I have not used the PAS with that controller, so I am curious as to what your experience will be with it. Speaking of PAS, did you order the "new style" crank sensor?
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/705-dual-hall-sensor-12-signals-easy-assembling-pas-ebike-kit.html
I think this is the one to use, as I have found the older style to be finicky to get to work.
I don't think you will need to solder anything(depends on Battery connector). I have replaced all of the kit connectors in the past when I wanted to shorten the cables/wires. You will have lot's of extra lenght w/ the frt. whl. kit and if you can, try and put the extra "loops" in a bag for a clean install. The one set of connectors I would recommend replacing or eliminating are the crimp-on bullets on the three phase wires. I use 3.5 mm bullets from Hobbyking, but one can just solder the wires directly. Make sure all the little pins are pushed in all the way in with the Hall, nylon connector.
As for hills, just make sure that you don't let the speed get too low, under, maybe, 10 mph. If you can get a good run up, it would take pretty long hill to get you slowed down that much, so you should be fine.
As for range, I usually get 1 1/2 miles per battery Ah, so your daily commute should not be a problem.
Let us know how it turns out.
EDIT: I see you have ordered the controller case. I have tried those(although, not with that controller)and have never been happy with the way they go together. If you feel like you might want to try something else, a good solution are sm. inexspensive "over the rail" frame bags, like these(half way down;
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63940&p=1003770&hilit=scott#p1003770
There is room in the side pocket to stash extra wire. Mine is counterbalanced with a Lipo batt. You could put in a tool kit or whatever.[/quote]
motomech
10 MW
Yes, they are the same motor.
I've had good experiences with BMS B. and haven't ordered anything from GBK. I think you can get them black from BMS B. and only silver from GBK.
A 10-speed cassette fits in standard drop-outs with a little spreading.
yes, I really like the ELB 9-FETS, especially for their LVC's.
I run the 350 Watt unit on the CST and the 500 Watt on the "H", although there is not as big a difference as the numbers would indicate.
You can get them on Ebay for $9 shipping. The vendor is diyebike, but it's really ELB.
If it were me, I would get one of each to play around and to have a spare.
And get the 810 meter, it's sm. and works well.
I've had good experiences with BMS B. and haven't ordered anything from GBK. I think you can get them black from BMS B. and only silver from GBK.
A 10-speed cassette fits in standard drop-outs with a little spreading.
yes, I really like the ELB 9-FETS, especially for their LVC's.
I run the 350 Watt unit on the CST and the 500 Watt on the "H", although there is not as big a difference as the numbers would indicate.
You can get them on Ebay for $9 shipping. The vendor is diyebike, but it's really ELB.
If it were me, I would get one of each to play around and to have a spare.
And get the 810 meter, it's sm. and works well.
motomech
10 MW
Sure, they aren't listing the 500 Watt unit at the moment, but it is there from time to time.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9-Mosfets-E-Bike-Motor-Controller-with-LED-meter-/321757318085?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4aea3b0bc5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-350W-9-Mosfets-E-Bike-Motor-Controller-with-LED-meter-/321757318085?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4aea3b0bc5
chas58
10 kW
ScooterMan101 said:
I bought mine from GBK, because they had much better customer service than BMS. But, its the same motor so if you know what you want, either will work. GBK was a lot cheaper for me with shipping because when I bought my "kit" they put a lot of my extras in the box for free, while BMS was going to charge me extra shipping for everything.
chas58
10 kW
motomech said:
Wow, thanks for that. One more mystery solved for me.
motomech
10 MW
I have been playing around with a 36V ELB 350 Watt the last couple of nights. I had been running the ELB 6-FET, 10 Amp on 9S(35V) and it was pretty lethargic.
While it does force me to pedal more, it just lacks any "snap" when I want to have fun.
As usual, after installing the 9-FET, the cruise didn't work. I thought, aw heck, I need to dig the controller out again, but, after cycling thru the system on/off, it worked. The way the cruise seems to work on all my ELB controllers is a little weird. The first time it engages, it does so really fast, after just a second or two. The next time takes longer, maybe 5 or 6 seconds and the third time even longer. After that, I need to deactivate/activate it(I have an external button).
Also, there are times I swear the the speed limiter not only limits the speed, but also the current, especially in the lowest setting, But it could be, that on 9S, the speed limit is reached so fast that it feels like the acceleration was limited too.
I only connect a single pack of 9S/5Ah lipo(but carry a spare)for most rides and I hit the LVC often. At least I think I do, as everything happens more or less at once. I lose power fairly rapidly for maybe 100 meters, then the one batt. lite goes blinky(thanks Guy, a liitle late), then the controller shuts down.
At that point, 8 cells read 3.7V, and the ninth has started to dive and, now at rest, reads 3.4V. So, it looks like the LVC cut in at 32.4V, which is what I see on the Voltmeter at the moment of shut off. Without the slightly weak cell, I'm guessing the LVC would come in a 3.65V across the board.
At any rate, the stay cell come back with reg. charging, so I am happy with this.
Oddly enough, I didn't seem to lose any range when I went to the more powerful controller.
Tonight, I'm going out on the Rocky Mountian that I am halfway thru changing the 328 motors for 201 motors.
So I will have one 48V 350 Watt ELB controller on one motor. I am curious how this controller will behave, especially at LVC with my 12S packs.
While it does force me to pedal more, it just lacks any "snap" when I want to have fun.
As usual, after installing the 9-FET, the cruise didn't work. I thought, aw heck, I need to dig the controller out again, but, after cycling thru the system on/off, it worked. The way the cruise seems to work on all my ELB controllers is a little weird. The first time it engages, it does so really fast, after just a second or two. The next time takes longer, maybe 5 or 6 seconds and the third time even longer. After that, I need to deactivate/activate it(I have an external button).
Also, there are times I swear the the speed limiter not only limits the speed, but also the current, especially in the lowest setting, But it could be, that on 9S, the speed limit is reached so fast that it feels like the acceleration was limited too.
I only connect a single pack of 9S/5Ah lipo(but carry a spare)for most rides and I hit the LVC often. At least I think I do, as everything happens more or less at once. I lose power fairly rapidly for maybe 100 meters, then the one batt. lite goes blinky(thanks Guy, a liitle late), then the controller shuts down.
At that point, 8 cells read 3.7V, and the ninth has started to dive and, now at rest, reads 3.4V. So, it looks like the LVC cut in at 32.4V, which is what I see on the Voltmeter at the moment of shut off. Without the slightly weak cell, I'm guessing the LVC would come in a 3.65V across the board.
At any rate, the stay cell come back with reg. charging, so I am happy with this.
Oddly enough, I didn't seem to lose any range when I went to the more powerful controller.
Tonight, I'm going out on the Rocky Mountian that I am halfway thru changing the 328 motors for 201 motors.
So I will have one 48V 350 Watt ELB controller on one motor. I am curious how this controller will behave, especially at LVC with my 12S packs.
A 48v controller has a LVC at about 38.5v, which is a bit low for a 12S lipo pack. When they get that low, they go out of balance, so some will be dangerously too low.. There's not really any point in going much below 44v because there's not much charge left anyway. You need a voltmeter or wattmeter to manage your pack.
motomech
10 MW
Actually, the ELB 48V controllers have a listed LVC of 41V, but I have tested them to be 42v, or about 3.6V when 12S is used.
I have a voltmeter, and with either 15Ah or 20Ah on board, I don't have to hit the LVC on this bike. Just curious where it will happen.
I have a voltmeter, and with either 15Ah or 20Ah on board, I don't have to hit the LVC on this bike. Just curious where it will happen.
mclark999
100 W
I am preparing to order a Q100H from BMSBattery and would like some advice.
I'll be powering it with a 36v battery.
It will be used on a cruiser bike mostly for assist up hills of 2% to 10% with the longest hill being about a quarter mile 5%.
I'm ordering the 201 winding. Won't be going fast at all on this bike, at least not with power.
I don't want PAS or an LED display. Just want a thumb throttle.
What controller would you recommend? I've been thinking of the KU65 or the KU93. Is the KU93 overkill?
Thanks,
Michael
I'll be powering it with a 36v battery.
It will be used on a cruiser bike mostly for assist up hills of 2% to 10% with the longest hill being about a quarter mile 5%.
I'm ordering the 201 winding. Won't be going fast at all on this bike, at least not with power.
I don't want PAS or an LED display. Just want a thumb throttle.
What controller would you recommend? I've been thinking of the KU65 or the KU93. Is the KU93 overkill?
Thanks,
Michael
motomech
10 MW
mclark999 said:
It would be a mistake to not use the LED display.
It is very small and sturdy and provides a way to turn the system on/off at the h.bar level.
Also useful is the 3-speed limiting feature.
Without PAS, the only way you can give your throttle hand a rest is to activate the cruise control, and while this can be done without speed-limiting, you will have to hunt for the throttle position to give you the desired speed to lock the cruise(this would seldom be top speed). With the limiter, you would hit, for example, the #2, hold the throttle there for a couple of seconds and be into cruise at that speed.
Lastly, the 4 light "gas gauge" on a 36V 810 meter is surprisingly acurate with a 36V batt., although I would recommend am inexpensive 2-wire mini-voltmeter.
Ok, having said all that, I.M.O., the best Q100 non-sine wave controller is the 9-FET 17 A from Elifebike.
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2014-3K-SAUG.5TSEX
That is the 810 meter version, the no meter version is;
http://www.elifebike.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2014-3K-SAUG.5TSEX
I would recommend you also order a couple of 2-button H.bar switches, as I doubt you want to use the bulky 3-lite throttle.
One H.bar switch to turn the system on/off and the other to activate/deactivate the cruise.
Although these controllers are reliable, it never hurts to have an Extra, as they are the most likely part of the system to fail.
If you are on the fence as to whether you might end up liking the 810 meter, order one of each controller and have a spare.
They are only $20 and one more won't add to the shipping costs.
You can get everything from ELB, unless you have a battery picked out from BMS B.
If that is the case, there is a way to order the ELB controller off Ebay for only $9 shipping.
chas58
10 kW
@mclark999,
I agree with you.
I like to keep it simple. I got the controller without the meter and a throttle. Clean and simple look on the handlebars.
Actually (mirroring motomech's advice), I got both a controller with and one without the display, I just don't use the display
(adding a controller to an existing order was cheap as I paid no additional shipping).
The display did me no good because:
- with lifeop4 batteries, it reads full even when near empty
- I know my range and just stay within that milage
- I don't use PAS, just a throttle like you.
(also, the non display controller doesn't need hall sensors, which made my troubleshooting much, much easier (turns out vendor had crossed wires on the throttle)).
I like the simple and clean look (not the typical bike here).
Motomech's favorite Elifebike controller is a great option, but keep in mind it is a LOT bigger than the little 6FET controllers. This may or may not be an issue for your build.
I got a thumb and a twist throttle. In the end I cut the twist throttle down and now use it as a half twist throttle. The only thing I didn't like about the thumb throttle is the ugly large electric box on the handlebars. My bikes really don't look like e-bikes, even up close.
I agree with you.
I like to keep it simple. I got the controller without the meter and a throttle. Clean and simple look on the handlebars.
Actually (mirroring motomech's advice), I got both a controller with and one without the display, I just don't use the display
(adding a controller to an existing order was cheap as I paid no additional shipping).
The display did me no good because:
- with lifeop4 batteries, it reads full even when near empty
- I know my range and just stay within that milage
- I don't use PAS, just a throttle like you.
(also, the non display controller doesn't need hall sensors, which made my troubleshooting much, much easier (turns out vendor had crossed wires on the throttle)).
I like the simple and clean look (not the typical bike here).
Motomech's favorite Elifebike controller is a great option, but keep in mind it is a LOT bigger than the little 6FET controllers. This may or may not be an issue for your build.
I got a thumb and a twist throttle. In the end I cut the twist throttle down and now use it as a half twist throttle. The only thing I didn't like about the thumb throttle is the ugly large electric box on the handlebars. My bikes really don't look like e-bikes, even up close.
Ykick
1 GW
chas58 said:
Thumb throttles with LED meter? Those blow. I prefer these -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Scooter-Pocket-Bike-E-Bike-Speed-Control-Thumb-Throttle-3-wire-/151734115776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23540eddc0
chas58
10 kW
Ykick said:
Dang, thanks! It is harder than I would have thought to find something simple like that.
motomech
10 MW
Not trying to be argumentative, but I think your basic assumption is flawed. That is, a cruiser with a mini geared motor system is something that a rider, no matter how strong, will want to pedal with the system off.
I have built a number of lite-weight systems based on the Q100 and the effort required to pedal them with the system off goes beyond what one would assume with 10 lb.s of dead-weight and a free-wheeling gear motor would incur. The "Cute"is designed so the gears don't rotate when it's not engaged and it spins freely when not under load, yet I think when the weight of bike and rider are on it, the drag of the seals and bearing come into play.
Admittingly, not very good reasoning, but the effect is real and I don't have a better explanation.
That's why so many come here with the same intent as you and end up using the system in the common way they are used. That is, apply system power somewhat short of desired speed and pedal up to that speed. the end result is, higher avg. speed and greater distance covered for cyclist input = more fun. Especially if battery range is not a concern. Why carry a lot of battery and never use it?
But, if as you say, this build is only to help climb one hill of a 2 mile "grocery getter" trip, the thing that comes to mind for me is, why bother?
$600 will buy a lot of scooter gas and a scooter will carry much more and in a safer manor.
I would be interested in chas58's experience pedaling with the system off.
Back to the original question, controllers. I started out of the classic 63V cap KU63's(now 50V caps)and they are powerful for their size, but as Chas mentioned, can be prone to over-heating.
The ELB 6-FET is smoother and less effected by heat, which stands to reason, as they are only 10 A units. Either would be fine for your intended build if they are not placed in a bag. And, of course, they cannot be upgraded to 48 Volts.
mclark999
100 W
motomech said:
I see where you are coming from and that's an excellent point.
I have a BBS02 crank drive on a hybrid and one thing that I don't like is that I can't turn the wattage down below 200 watts so if I'm riding with someone that is slow, I either have to turn it off and pedal pretty hard or pedal, stop, pedal stop. Would love to be able to turn it down to about 90 watts.
With the 3 PAS levels on a Q100H and one of the pas controllers above, can I set the lowest level to just like 90 watts if I'm running it at 36 volts? That would appeal to me and at 90 watts, even with a 4Ah battery, there would be a plenty of range for my wife's needs.
motomech
10 MW
That's what I do.
I ride one of my bikes on a long walkway(usually at nite, so not many pedestrians)and with 9S pushing a Q100(260) with a 10A controller, the lowest speed setting is around 12 mph.
I just set it there with the cruise and pedal on top of that.
The range on just 5 Ah of Lipo on those settings is amazing, close to 15 miles before the LVC kicks in.
I ride one of my bikes on a long walkway(usually at nite, so not many pedestrians)and with 9S pushing a Q100(260) with a 10A controller, the lowest speed setting is around 12 mph.
I just set it there with the cruise and pedal on top of that.
The range on just 5 Ah of Lipo on those settings is amazing, close to 15 miles before the LVC kicks in.
dakh
100 W
FWIW my 201 wind Cute in 700c wheel with a fairly big tire, 14A controller and 14s battery does pretty well in maintaining speeds going up steep hills here in Seattle, when I stand up and mash it pretty good. That's almost 10 times more wattage from the motor plus whatever I contribute. If I don't contribute, lots of hills here it probably will overheat or just not make it. At 90W I'd probably be better off ditching the heavy battery and motor and doing all the work myself.
Sunder said:
I've been doing a lot of reading on the QQ series motors, because I'm about to buy one. The Q100H actually has about double the reduction ratio of the Q100 (1/12 vs 1/6th IIRC), and so really does maintain about the same RPM with 30% more torque. However, given the same controller, the Q100H is much noisier, and some have actually downgraded back to the Q100 after purchasing the "better" 100H for this reason, AFAIU.
I'm leaning towards the smoother, quieter, less torquey one, because it's reported to fairly easily drive at 20mph in a 26" wheel, on 36v 15 amp (max) controller.
