Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[Paulflieg]

very good, I can confirm everything so far, for em150 FW 2.33! Unfortunately, with FW2.23, the important (torque control) is not that simple. But at least a good step forward ...

 

[BareKuda]

very good, I can confirm everything so far, for em150 FW 2.33! Unfortunately, with FW2.23, the important (torque control) is not that simple. But at least a good step forward ...

Yes, i have Firmware 2.33 and i have torque (current) limits for low and mid. But it seems Firmware 2.32 doesn’t. I wonder if there is a way to change the firmware to the useful version, lol.

I will keep testing to see if i can find why my busbar current setting does nothing. Maybe i need to check auto enabler and set 10 seconds on and 30 seconds recovery and see if that makes it shift from sports mode current to busbar current.

I can only guess that the timer would start when you exceed busbar setting and after the time limit it throttles you down to busbar limit for the cooldown period, then enables again for next time you want sport mode.

This would help prevent you from frying your motor but still allows the short burst of power most motors can tolerate if given adequate cooldown interval.

 

[Paulflieg]

For FW2.23 - The value of Busbar current, page 1, was used as the current value if you enter 0 in the right field for low-medium-high. So it is possible to have at least two torque settings ... Low and sport, so to speak. But I can't test it now because I have installed the new FW2.33 controller ...... Winter is still a long time to play

 

[BareKuda]

For FW2.23 - The value of Busbar current, page 1, was used as the current value if you enter 0 in the right field for low-medium-high. So it is possible to have at least two torque settings ... Low and sport, so to speak. But I can't test it now because I have installed the new FW2.33 controller ...... Winter is still a long time to play

Ive never seen FW 2.23 only 2.32 and 2.33. Is there a 2.23?

 

[BareKuda]

For FW2.23 - The value of Busbar current, page 1, was used as the current value if you enter 0 in the right field for low-medium-high. So it is possible to have at least two torque settings ... Low and sport, so to speak. But I can't test it now because I have installed the new FW2.33 controller ...... Winter is still a long time to play

If i added a row of buttons and switches to my handlebars i could add sport mode, but i dint know what I would gain since gear 3 already seems ro be using sport mode current limit.

I would like an extra setting for 5% speed and 35a current for having high torque and low speed so i can climb a curve slowly. As it is i need to use gear 3 to get the torque and it wants to go through my wall after hoping the curb. Lol

I dont really need reverse or cruise but if i had extra buttons id use them since i already verified they work.

 

[j bjork]

If i added a row of buttons and switches to my handlebars i could add sport mode, but i dint know what I would gain since gear 3 already seems ro be using sport mode current limit.

Just test it by connecting it to ground. On my older controller it sure has effect, even with the same settings. It is a lot more aggressive

Good job at trying to make sense of the settings on these newer controllers :thumb:

 

[Paulflieg]

For FW2.23 - The value of Busbar current, page 1, was used as the current value if you enter 0 in the right field for low-medium-high. So it is possible to have at least two torque settings ... Low and sport, so to speak. But I can't test it now because I have installed the new FW2.33 controller ...... Winter is still a long time to play

Ive never seen FW 2.23 only 2.32 and 2.33. Is there a 2.23?

Spelling mistake! It's 2.32, of course.

 

[BareKuda]

Just test it by connecting it to ground. On my older controller it sure has effect, even with the same settings. It is a lot more aggressive

Good job at trying to make sense of the settings on these newer controllers :thumb:

I can connect my low speed switch to sport instead of low but since high already gives me sport amps i dont see how it can do anything UNLESS The box to the right of HIGH speed% only works in Sports Mode, and super modulates to add 20% more amps if set for 20.

I think a momentary on button would work for sports mode because low-med-high would cover most set-and-forget modes whereas sports mode you can set to give the motor peak amps for the allowed number of seconds, especially for cases where the motor, controller or battery can only support peak for short bursts.

 

[BareKuda]

For FW2.23 - The value of Busbar current, page 1, was used as the current value if you enter 0 in the right field for low-medium-high. So it is possible to have at least two torque settings ... Low and sport, so to speak. But I can't test it now because I have installed the new FW2.33 controller ...... Winter is still a long time to play

Spelling mistake! It's 2.32, of course.

Whats interesting is the hardware versions are the same, which implies they are all using the same STM microcontroller. If so then i wonder what it takes to upgrade FW 2:32 to FW 2.33. And is this STM firmware or Votol firmware?

I wish there is an read-only app i can connect to debugging port and read all the data the way STM sees it.

 

[Paulflieg]

Votol certainly has the bin file. Who would dare to flash? If we have the file

 

[BareKuda]

Votol certainly has the bin file. Who would dare to flash? If we have the file

Not me. I already have 2.33. Lol.

I just did some testing by changing high speed port to sports input, and it shows “S” in display page, but no change. Still 30a, same as high, which is my sports mode current limit.

I trying auto enabler 5s on 10s off and it did nothing to my current limit. Maybe it needs a temperature probe in the motor to work.

I also set my high speed port to reverse, set reverse speed limit to 10%. It worked without reboot. But changing back from reverse to high speed switch required reboot.

So far nothing i put in the 2nd box for High Gear changes the current limit. Its always sports current limit.

I still need to tweak KI and KP to try to get some noise gone. Right now if i roll the bike with controller off, its silent, but if i turn the ignition on and push the bike backwards or forwards, it’s dragging a little and sounds like running something along the teeth of a fine comb.

 

[afzal]

I wish there is an read-only app i can connect to debugging port and read all the data the way STM sees it.

Read protection feature in the STM processor has been enabled, so even if JTAG is connected to the processor, flash memory contents can't be read (i did try reading the flash via JTAG on EM100)

 

[afzal]

Votol certainly has the bin file. Who would dare to flash? If we have the file

EM100 board with me is not working, so I will dare :wink: , if some one has the bin file please share

 

[j bjork]

I just did some testing by changing high speed port to sports input, and it shows “S” in display page, but no change. Still 30a, same as high, which is my sports mode current limit.

No change in throttle response? For me there is a lot of difference, even with the same A settings and 250 or something like that in "rate of rise" or what it is called on page 1.
But I have 400 in busbar and sport A setting, so changes will probably have more effect :wink:

 

[BareKuda]

No change in throttle response? For me there is a lot of difference, even with the same A settings and 250 or something like that in "rate of rise" or what it is called on page 1.
But I have 400 in busbar and sport A setting, so changes will probably have more effect :wink:

Yes, my motor is 48v 500w, so when i send 62v @ 30a thats 1800w.

I have my laptop on my floorboard open to display page so i see the current draw. Mine is 30a max on high and 30a max in sport mode. But my flux weakening is 0 and my HDC rpm is 650 so if you have yours set to unleash the beast it might be able to use 400a.

400a on mine would melt ever wire within 5 feet of my ebike. Lol

My EV with gearbox settings are:
0
0
250
250

The first two boxes don't seem to have much effect for me. The second 2 do but ill play with them some to give good behavior. But i think if you have this controller on a vehicle with differential and 2-speed gearbox like a cargo trike has, it can help tune out some gear lash issues.

Can you do a test while monitoring current to see if you get more current or it just increases current faster?

I think the 3 boxes near KP are phase current limits and maybe only active in sports mode. Mine are all 0 except my KP is 7000 i think.

 

[j bjork]

I have an older version, I can set sport and busbar current independent of each other.
From what I have seen it is not about battery current, so I guess it is just how fast current rises.
In low speed I dont reach any battery current limit anyway.
I already have max settings on phase A, I dont think the mosfets would survive if it went higher than the setting.

If I have the bike on a stand and do a fast twist on the throttle in high the wheel spins up a little.
If I do the same in sport the bike moves so the rear wheel hits the ground.
I have posted a video of it sometime I think, I dont know how much it was visible on the video though.

 

[BareKuda]

I have an older version, I can set sport and busbar current independent of each other.
From what I have seen it is not about battery current, so I guess it is just how fast current rises.
In low speed I dont reach any battery current limit anyway.
I already have max settings on phase A, I dont think the mosfets would survive if it went higher than the setting.

If I have the bike on a stand and do a fast twist on the throttle in high the wheel spins up a little.
If I do the same in sport the bike moves so the rear wheel hits the ground.
I have posted a video of it sometime I think, I dont know how much it was visible on the video though.

These are my settings below 3-speed settings:


And this is the translation of the Chinese mobile app that comes with the Bluetooth adapter:


Learning this was KP and not flux weakening is what allowed my to tune out most of the resonance i got at 100 rpm.

I dont really understand what the other boxes do but they are all related to phase current. And one is related to accelerated phase current. Its possible that in sports mode this setting kicks in and sends the current like a hard start mode would.

All my settings for starting Torque are high but its still definitely not HARD START mode. I would say it takes about 1 second to ramp up to 30a. Sounds like yours ramps up very fast in sport mode.

Your system is so powerful its probably hard to get an accurate reading. My bike is heavy and underpowered so on low speed at 15a it still takes several sections to reach 20 km/hr and then drop to 6a for cruise.

At high speed it takes 200 meters to get up to speed, most of that is at 30a, then it cuts back to 25a. Not much overhead there.

Now that i see how easy it is to temporarily charge a port to give me sports mode (no wiring changes) i can easily do tests on my next run. Ill try to throw some big numbers in those phase current boxes and see if it makes it appear like HARD START.

So many features are intertwined that i have to try many combinations. Like my 3 speed switch would change the gear on display page L M H but not change motor speed. Once i checked the DHC box, the 3-speed was working correctly.

 

[Paulflieg]

In the red border, the KP field is in the Windows mask, at the bottom left !! 7000 ... the other 3 fields are where? The translation sounds interesting. Is the arrangement the same as in the app?

 

[BareKuda]

In the red border, the KP field is in the Windows mask, at the bottom left !! 7000 ... the other 3 fields are where? The translation sounds interesting. Is the arrangement the same as in the app?

These are the same fields in the same order. But the Chinese app (translated to English) labels things better.
The PC app leaves you wondering what the second boxes are for and misleads about the KP box and phase current boxes:


Heres the exact same fields in the PC app:


Its not super clear because there is a watermark on the image and the ocr translation shifted things a bit.

And heres the sports mode section:


You see it states the left field is flux weakening but the right field is KI, not flux weakening.

With current loop KI and KP set right that makes it run smooth. After learning the other box is Current loop KP i set it back to 7000 and that allowed me to move KI down from 700 to 500. Most of my resonance at 100rpm is gone.

I know the motor will run smooth as silk because the old controller it did, smooth and quite at all speed and power.

Im going to play woth the phase current limit boxes some and see if that has any effect.

 

[fishblood]

Hello everyone from Russia. I apologize for my crooked English, this is a translator. Became the proud owner of the votol em150sp kit and qs138 90h 4000w. I connected everything, removed the parking restriction, connected the throttle stick. Then I connected my laptop to the controller and adjusted the throttle thresholds which I measured in advance with a multimeter. The problem is as follows, when the engine reaches 4800 rpm, it itself sharply raises the rpm to about 6000 and does not reset them even when the throttle stick is released, only turning off the ignition helps. Can anyone come across such a problem and be able to suggest?

I had the same problems and used a lot if time trying to figure out what was going on. Solution? Turned off "low beake" on page 3. I have no idea why, but it is repeatable on my vehicle. Regen on low break signal works without the box ticked, so I have no idea what this box does. Except make my motor go haywire at anything above 4500rpm...

Tried this option but it didn't help

I made a excel can generate protocol for em100, and then use the BT terminal tool which I can use barely cell phone and change the settings.
FYI

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ayJZ7FeaZd9Fkl-9bxg7g1MrWPa8x7Lb/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IUYZB8QUwD8PTaGSV2B59CWgMIZdr0IB/view?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AaeLlZMFbR05QRcymlXSegphxfpRCbEo/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=102395760469625306475&rtpof=true&sd=true

 

[Paulflieg]

Hmmm,
C0 14 0D send
63 30 20 31 34 20 30 64 0D 0A receive

Is that the content of page1? How do I open Monitor? Is that possible?

 

[ors150]

Hey guys I have just finished mounting my qs138 with votol 150, I'm working with 20s high amp batt and 1/7.5 ratio with 650mm wheel ,
The bike is feeling really strong (200amp bus),
But on the middle to top end speed I can feel the power is lower..,
Any way I can make more power on the middle to top end with settings?

 

[BareKuda]

Hey guys I have just finished mounting my qs138 with votol 150, I'm working with 20s high amp batt and 1/7.5 ratio with 650mm wheel ,
The bike is feeling really strong (200amp bus),
But on the middle to top end speed I can feel the power is lower..,
Any way I can make more power on the middle to top end with settings?

When you enter flux weakening rpm you trade torque for the ability to go faster than the motor is designed. You might be able to reduce flux weakening to gain a bit more torque until your top speed is no longer fast enough for you.

Whats your flux weakening setting now? If you send a copy of your current configuration file we can see settings.

 

[ors150]

Hey guys I have just finished mounting my qs138 with votol 150, I'm working with 20s high amp batt and 1/7.5 ratio with 650mm wheel ,
The bike is feeling really strong (200amp bus),
But on the middle to top end speed I can feel the power is lower..,
Any way I can make more power on the middle to top end with settings?

When you enter flux weakening rpm you trade torque for the ability to go faster than the motor is designed. You might be able to reduce flux weakening to gain a bit more torque until your top speed is no longer fast enough for you.

Whats your flux weakening setting now? If you send a copy of your current configuration file we can see settings.

hey thanks for the answer, i taked some screen shot of the save paratmters before i changed the busbar current(a) to 200,
thats the only diffrence btween the pictures and what i have on the controller,

Page 1:
https://pasteboard.co/1IyYN5q4wrUJ.jpg

page2:
https://pasteboard.co/6P0QZQi0ql8Q.jpg

page3:
https://pasteboard.co/2ltGQOHgr8an.jpg

waiting for youre advice thanks

 

[PLUKE85]

Does anyone have instructions and the software for the controller?